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  1. #1
    Formerly PaintPeelinPbody
    Reputation: PHeller's Avatar
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    Wiring Bar Lights for Cable Management?

    I've got two Yingding clones that I'm pretty happy with. With the supplied 4 cell batteries I rarely drain a battery completely, and have actually been thinking about switching to a 2S1P pack or holder. The put out plenty of light for me, as most of the time at night I'll ride trails I'm familiar with.

    Thing is, I'm always finding that I've got way too much cable. I usually keep my batteries fairly close to the handlebar, either right in the "head tube crotch" or on top of the top tube. Why? I don't like having to strap and unstrap cable everytime I use the light, since most of the time my light is only used for half my ride and will reside in my pack.

    1) What's a good source for MagicShine style connectors? 5.5mm x 2.1mm at Kadomain or ebay?

    2) Are there are any issues with running multiple connectors before the light? For instance, a 1" length of cable with connector at the light, then mid-section of cable for various situations (battery close to bars, battery in bag, etc), then another connector at the battery?
    GIS/GPS Pro using ArcFM for Utility Mapping - Always willing to connect with other MTBers in the industry.

  2. #2
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    So you want to make your own extension cables at various lengths? I don't have a lot to offer as far as links and such. I will link you the nice 20 gauge MagicShine (genuine?) extension cables from DX. I use those, cut to length, to make new thicker power leads for my lights. You could cut them down to size and splice them for various sizes.

    Having multiple connectors in-line will add more points of resistance which will increase voltage drop having some effect on output and runtime (how much? Hard to say in your situation.) Changing over to better less resistance connectors would be better (like "deans" or "XT60").

    -Garry

  3. #3
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    Idea!

    I would use a good cable and modify it with brand named components.
    You could even put an remote control for each/booth lamp(s) into the wiring.
    Earpiece For Bao Feng Walkie-Talkie Two Way Radio With PTT Button K Head | eBay

    Or just buy the needed cables original from magicshine.
    magicshine.us/product/mj-6016-extension-cable/
    magicshine.us/product/mj-6018-y-cable/

  4. #4
    Formerly PaintPeelinPbody
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    I think I may simply start by swapping or shortening the length of cable on one of might lights.

    Currently the light head is the long part, and the battery is just a port.

    Gary, have you seen any gains in using the thicker genuine MS cables or would there be any noticeable benefits to using the XT60 connectors?

    angerdan, unfortunately I need shorter cables, not longer ones, and I decided I want nothing to do with a remote switch (I hate cables enough as it is).
    GIS/GPS Pro using ArcFM for Utility Mapping - Always willing to connect with other MTBers in the industry.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by PHeller View Post
    Gary, have you seen any gains in using the thicker genuine MS cables or would there be any noticeable benefits to using the XT60 connectors?
    It depends on how thin the stock cable is or how bad the stock connectors are. And you're only going to see worthwhile improvement (IMHO) on lights that pull lots of current. Take the Zanflare B3 for example. That one showed significant improvement on input when stock connector & cable was removed (see ImA's test setup).

    Like I said above, it's always an improvement, but sometimes it's not enough to be concerned with. I would consider upgrading the cable (& possibly connectors) on lights pulling about 3amps or more or if you need really long cable runs. The only light I saw huge improvement on was a 4.2v light (one I gave up on modding anyway).

    -Garry

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