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  1. #126
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    Main reason: I race R/C cars and fly R/C helis, and have lots of Lipo batteries lying around. Not to mention a great charger (REVO powerlab 8). I solder on new connectors all the time. Trust me the batteries get a lot more abuse in the cars than they ever will on the bike...

    I didn't think about the LVC though...

    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    I am using li-po battery with a PCB cutoff at 3V/cell on a dual 7 led setup. Unless you don't need to draw lots of amps from battery it is not worth. What is your main reason to go for li-po? The price or some multi-light setup? Li-po should be handled with great care and have a good amount of insulation to prevent a bad branch on the trail to cause a fireworks from your li-po. Most of riders use original if it last some decent time or you can go for an upgrade like pannovo case and protected cells. See battery thread 2013 here - lot of info there about replacements and where you can get them from.
    2013 Canfield Yelli

  2. #127
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    Hi all,
    Just thought I'd share an experience with this Yinding light. My riding buddy recently purchased one from Wallbuys on my recommendation, as the light is getting decent reviews on this forum, and the price can't be beat. Unfortunately, he received the inferior version of the light. It was lacking proper waterproofing in the screws, had the inferior connectors, etc. He purchased this light with the battery, charger, etc. I am running a recently purchased MJ 880U (XML-U2) on my lid, which I am very impressed with. We compared the beamshots of the two lights on Mt. Fromme this week and the MJ 880 appears to have a fair bit more flood and throw (albeit with a whiter colour). We suspected a bad battery pack might be the problem for the Yinding's potential, reduced performance. The fully charged battery pack for the Yinding was putting out 8.1V. This sounds a bit low (should be 8.4V). However, I'm unsure if this small discrepancy in voltage could be responsible for what seems like a reduced performance on the trail. That being said, the Yinding provided adequate light to get my pal down the trail at high speed and become completely hooked on night riding. It's certainly a good light for the price. My riding buddy wanted to get an MJ-880 by the end of the ride, however!

    If anyone has any insight on why this Yinding might not be cranking out enough light (perhaps this is as good as it gets?), it would be greatly appreciated. I was under the impression that it would be fairly similar to the MJ 880 in performance. I am, however, a complete newb to the sport of night riding, and know next to nothing about electronics. Please use the kid gloves...

    Thanks to everyone for your informative posts on the forum. I read them daily.

    Cheers,
    truks.

  3. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carraig042 View Post
    I thought about using a lipo battery from my R/C, but you would need a LVC so you do not damage the cells in the pack. I am not sure if the lighthead has anything like that built in or not...

    -Brett
    If the lamp has voltage indicators I don't think it would be a big issue. When the lamp gets to the last indicator you know it might be a good idea to switch batteries real soon.

    If it doesn't have indicators you still have common sense namely, If you know how long you generally ride at night you use a battery with the appropriate capacity. If you don't use a cut-off circuit you use your eyes. When the lamp starts to dim it's time to stop using the battery. People use unprotected batteries all the time. As long as you are of aware of the issue and how to address it you should be fine.

    While deep discharge is not particularly good for lithium batteries I really don't think it would be an issue unless you start doing it on a regular basis...And, If that was the case that would be your heads-up to get a bigger battery or start using lower power levels more often.

    While I've used Li-ion batteries for years rarely ( if ever ) have I ever ran a Lithium battery to its lowest point while on a ride. The day that happens will be one big monster night ride.

  4. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by truks View Post
    Hi all,
    Just thought I'd share an experience with this Yinding light. My riding buddy recently purchased one from Wallbuys on my recommendation, as the light is getting decent reviews on this forum, and the price can't be beat. Unfortunately, he received the inferior version of the light. It was lacking proper waterproofing in the screws, had the inferior connectors, etc. He purchased this light with the battery, charger, etc. I am running a recently purchased MJ 880U (XML-U2) on my lid, which I am very impressed with. We compared the beamshots of the two lights on Mt. Fromme this week and the MJ 880 appears to have a fair bit more flood and throw (albeit with a whiter colour). We suspected a bad battery pack might be the problem for the Yinding's potential, reduced performance. The fully charged battery pack for the Yinding was putting out 8.1V. This sounds a bit low (should be 8.4V). However, I'm unsure if this small discrepancy in voltage could be responsible for what seems like a reduced performance on the trail. That being said, the Yinding provided adequate light to get my pal down the trail at high speed and become completely hooked on night riding. It's certainly a good light for the price. My riding buddy wanted to get an MJ-880 by the end of the ride, however!

    If anyone has any insight on why this Yinding might not be cranking out enough light (perhaps this is as good as it gets?), it would be greatly appreciated. I was under the impression that it would be fairly similar to the MJ 880 in performance. I am, however, a complete newb to the sport of night riding, and know next to nothing about electronics. Please use the kid gloves...

    Thanks to everyone for your informative posts on the forum. I read them daily.

    Cheers,
    truks.
    Could be your 880 just has a better driver. Then again the 880 has reflectors and yinding's use optics so they will have different beam patterns. Different beam patterns can "look brighter" if most of the light is more centered.

    As for the battery, don't be surprised if the next time it charges it reaches a higher peak voltage. Always a good idea with new batteries to charge, then let sit a good while ( half a day ) and then charge again to see if there was any self-balancing that needed to go on. With cheap batteries sometimes this can be an issue.

    In the end it comes down to this; Your friend bought a cheap light set. If it works you win. If he get's usable run time from the battery he wins. If he wants something brighter or better there are always going to be better/brighter things you can buy. If you friend likes your light he might try buying the 880 clone sold over on Kaidomain. I believe that got pretty good reviews. Note that the driver is providing 2.8A on the 880 clone. That should be very bright. That lamp uses a cell holder so if you buy good batteries you get a better battery. I'm surprise more people haven't bought these.

  5. #130
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    The pictures on this thread showed that the MJ880 was better than the Duo Clone
    2013 Budget Light Shootout

    It's a well designed, high end light. The duo clone is 1/4 of the cost. For the price I don't think you can expect much more.

  6. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by truks View Post
    Hi all,
    Just thought I'd share an experience with this Yinding light. My riding buddy recently purchased one from Wallbuys on my recommendation, as the light is getting decent reviews on this forum, and the price can't be beat. Unfortunately, he received the inferior version of the light. It was lacking proper waterproofing in the screws, had the inferior connectors, etc. He purchased this light with the battery, charger, etc. I am running a recently purchased MJ 880U (XML-U2) on my lid, which I am very impressed with. We compared the beamshots of the two lights on Mt. Fromme this week and the MJ 880 appears to have a fair bit more flood and throw (albeit with a whiter colour). We suspected a bad battery pack might be the problem for the Yinding's potential, reduced performance. The fully charged battery pack for the Yinding was putting out 8.1V. This sounds a bit low (should be 8.4V). However, I'm unsure if this small discrepancy in voltage could be responsible for what seems like a reduced performance on the trail. That being said, the Yinding provided adequate light to get my pal down the trail at high speed and become completely hooked on night riding. It's certainly a good light for the price. My riding buddy wanted to get an MJ-880 by the end of the ride, however!

    If anyone has any insight on why this Yinding might not be cranking out enough light (perhaps this is as good as it gets?), it would be greatly appreciated. I was under the impression that it would be fairly similar to the MJ 880 in performance. I am, however, a complete newb to the sport of night riding, and know next to nothing about electronics. Please use the kid gloves...

    Thanks to everyone for your informative posts on the forum. I read them daily.

    Cheers,
    truks.
    8.1 volts, not really an issue.
    just an indication that the pack may not be 'all that great'
    or the charger is not that great. I expect my yinding pack to fail early and i have a pannovo 2s2p ready with my own 18650's when it does croak.

    however when a pack does get charged and drops to 8.1 right away, it could
    mean it is on it's way out soon. my yinding pack comes off charger at 8.21 volts.

    thing should run down to lower than 7.6 volts easily without affecting light

  7. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    If the lamp has voltage indicators I don't think it would be a big issue. When the lamp gets to the last indicator you know it might be a good idea to switch batteries real soon.

    If it doesn't have indicators you still have common sense namely, If you know how long you generally ride at night you use a battery with the appropriate capacity. If you don't use a cut-off circuit you use your eyes. When the lamp starts to dim it's time to stop using the battery. People use unprotected batteries all the time. As long as you are of aware of the issue and how to address it you should be fine.

    While deep discharge is not particularly good for lithium batteries I really don't think it would be an issue unless you start doing it on a regular basis...And, If that was the case that would be your heads-up to get a bigger battery or start using lower power levels more often.

    While I've used Li-ion batteries for years rarely ( if ever ) have I ever ran a Lithium battery to its lowest point while on a ride. The day that happens will be one big monster night ride.
    The only thing is depending on where the light is mounted, you may not be able to see the indicator light. Also, does anyone know the voltage at which the indicator light changes.? Lipo batteries should not go below 3.0-3.1 on the low side per cell. Better at 3.2. A lvc would be easy and cheap to install. There are different types. Ones that will make a noise letting you know it is running down to the more traditional that will cut the power. I wouldn't recommend doing it by visual, it is better to be safe with a proper set up and it will also help the cells last longer.

    Brett

  8. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carraig042 View Post
    The only thing is depending on where the light is mounted, you may not be able to see the indicator light. Also, does anyone know the voltage at which the indicator light changes.? Lipo batteries should not go below 3.0-3.1 on the low side per cell. Better at 3.2. A lvc would be easy and cheap to install. There are different types. Ones that will make a noise letting you know it is running down to the more traditional that will cut the power. I wouldn't recommend doing it by visual, it is better to be safe with a proper set up and it will also help the cells last longer.

    Brett
    Yes, if the lamp is helmet mounted a voltage indicator doesn't help unless you take your helmet off from time to time.

    About the indicators in general; It is pretty much a well know fact that voltage indicators seem to vary from lamp to lamp. I've heard of indicators that turn red ( last warning ) that give you another half hour of run time and I've had one of my own that turned red only to have the lamp go completely out in a few more minutes. If you have indicators it's best to do a test run-through so you know what to expect from your lamp's indicators. I should also note that different batteries used on the same lamp will also produce different outcomes. Also remember that cold temps will change how the indicators work. Lesson learned....do a test run-through before getting caught out in the woods without battery power. Have a back up plan and you're good.

    Another option is to buy batteries that have a voltage indicator built onto the battery. Once again you might have to stop to read the indicator on the battery

    The lamps I use regularly ( on the bars ) don't have indicators although I do own lamps that DO have indicators. When I use lamps with indicators ( on the bars ) I usually place of piece of electrical tape over the indicators. I do that because ( usually ) the indicator leds are quite bright and shine in my face which I don't particularly like. When I need to view the indicators I just lift or move the tape. Since my regular lamp doesn't have an indicator I still have the option to run another lamp ( with indicator ) in parallel with my regular lamp if I ever feel I have the need. Since I rarely do rides long enough to approach the battery cut-off, I have yet to really need the indicators.

    Hummm...just had an interesting thought. Would be nice if someone made an indicator that would "plug" in-line with your MS compatible Lamp/battery. Money to be made for the company that makes the first commercially sold version. ( **Even better if you could program the cut-offs for each level.. )

  9. #134
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    When I had lost the battery roulette I bought 30C discharge li-po, Emperor Fusion L702 and some other stuff. I soldered 5.5 mm bullet connectors to the cut-off PCB and I am more than happy with the performance of the lights and the battery. If you have li-pos laying around go and use them. But I would consider LVC, alarm or any other cheap stuff to show what is happening to the li-po cells. Most of PCBs that come with these cheap lights and indicators cut-ff or turn red at 2.3-2.5V/cell and that is quite a hazard for li-po IMHO.

    Quote Originally Posted by racerjerm View Post
    Main reason: I race R/C cars and fly R/C helis, and have lots of Lipo batteries lying around. I solder on new connectors all the time. Trust me the batteries get a lot more abuse in the cars than they ever will on the bike...
    I didn't think about the LVC though...

  10. #135
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    Thanks for the replies. Yes, after researching a little more. I found a LVA for $2.00 at hobby king, cheap insurance. My worry was the batteries I wanted to use we're only 2000mah and wasn't sure how long they would last with the light. I have bigger but liked the light weight.

    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    When I had lost the battery roulette I bought 30C discharge li-po, Emperor Fusion L702 and some other stuff. I soldered 5.5 mm bullet connectors to the cut-off PCB and I am more than happy with the performance of the lights and the battery. If you have li-pos laying around go and use them. But I would consider LVC, alarm or any other cheap stuff to show what is happening to the li-po cells. Most of PCBs that come with these cheap lights and indicators cut-ff or turn red at 2.3-2.5V/cell and that is quite a hazard for li-po IMHO.
    2013 Canfield Yelli

  11. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by racerjerm View Post
    Thanks for the replies. Yes, after researching a little more. I found a LVA for $2.00 at hobby king, cheap insurance. My worry was the batteries I wanted to use we're only 2000mah and wasn't sure how long they would last with the light. I have bigger but liked the light weight.
    What's a LVA? Is it a low voltage alarm? Could you show us more details on how you plan to hook this up, I would like to know how this is done.

  12. #137
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    It goes right to the balance connector plug On-Board Lipoly Low Voltage Alarm 2s~3s

  13. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by varider View Post
    What's a LVA? Is it a low voltage alarm? Could you show us more details on how you plan to hook this up, I would like to know how this is done.
    Yes, Low Voltage Alarm. Just plugs into the balance plug. Google "lva hobbyking" should be the first thing that pops up.
    2013 Canfield Yelli

  14. #139
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  15. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by varider View Post
    Yes, that is the same thing, only with indictor and works with a wider range of cells...
    2013 Canfield Yelli

  16. #141
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    Why not, I have LVA similar to this one but selectable alarm trigger from 2.9 to 3.5V

    Low Voltage Buzzer Alarm Indicator 2S 4S LiPo Battery | eBay

  17. #142
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    Actually you won't like to hear that little thing triggering that alarm sound

  18. #143
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    Let us know how long the 2000 mah battery lasts per charge please. I am interested in doing the same thing.

    Brett

  19. #144
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    Sorry if this has already been answered (I got a bit lost in this thread and the battery thread...)
    Does anyone have a link to a site where I can easily purchase an extra battery pack for this light? (preferably one of higher quality than the battery pack that came with it)

    I bought the fasttech version and got it in the mail this week
    $51.02 YINDING 2*Cree XM-L U2 4-Mode 1800-Lumen White LED Bike Light / Headlamp - 1*battery pack (4*18650 / 4400mAh / 2S2P) / US plug at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

  20. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by asafchar View Post
    Does anyone have a link to a site where I can easily purchase an extra battery pack for this light? (preferably one of higher quality than the battery pack that came with it)
    Hunk Lee on ebay.
    DIY LED Bike Lights:
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  21. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by znomit View Post
    Hunk Lee on ebay.
    I thought this thread had a link to a group of batteries that Hunk Lee sells that'll work with the YinDing Gemini Duo clone. Couldn't find it though. Can someone point me in the right direction? I just got mine and used it last night on my bars. Ran it in low mode (to accompany my helmet mounted light) and after 20 minutes of riding, the switch on the light went red. The battery lasted the rest of the ride but I'm not very happy with the battery that came with it. I also want to switch to those screw on connectors that Hunk Lee sells. Thanks in advance!

    Also, this quick release mount from Action LED Lights works with the YinDing if anyone is interested.
    User review: YINDING YD-2XU2 (Gemini Duo clone)-20140522_125034.jpg
    Can you hear me now?

  22. #147
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    Here is a link to Hunk Lee's batteries.

    Panasonic NCR18650B 7.4V 3400mAh Protected Li-ion battery for Bike Light 2S1PM items in A-OK battery store on eBay!

    Be sure to ask for the screw type connector on the battery and the male end so you can update your light to match.

  23. #148
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    How to you make special requests when ordering from Hunk Lee? I got one of his batteries and wished I had known..didn't have the good connectors (MS-type that snap tight). Also interested in a screw-type fitting for my Solar Storm.
    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

    2012 Specialized Stumpy EVO 29 HT

  24. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by robs31 View Post
    Here is a link to Hunk Lee's batteries.

    Panasonic NCR18650B 7.4V 3400mAh Protected Li-ion battery for Bike Light 2S1PM items in A-OK battery store on eBay!

    Be sure to ask for the screw type connector on the battery and the male end so you can update your light to match.
    Forgive me, as I know nothing about batteries... This is the one I want to get: Panasonic LiIon Battery Pack 7.4V 5800mAh for MagicShine LED Bike Light NCR 2S2P

    Will this battery work with my YinDing Gemini Duo clone? Thanks in advance!
    Can you hear me now?

  25. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by cycljunkie View Post
    Forgive me, as I know nothing about batteries... This is the one I want to get: Panasonic LiIon Battery Pack 7.4V 5800mAh for MagicShine LED Bike Light NCR 2S2P

    Will this battery work with my YinDing Gemini Duo clone? Thanks in advance!
    Yes, thats the one I got. Tested at ~5700mAhr. Excellent.
    DIY LED Bike Lights:
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