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  1. #201
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    Ok, some pics of my KD Duo/YingDing clone. As I said previously, mine internally (except driver) looks like Trevs's in post #192. My driver runs on 4.2v input. I tried 8.4v input and the battery level indicator just flashes red-green-red-green, etc. . . . light won't turn on or do anything else at all. Current draw on 4.2v battery (with thick leads, which made a big difference in output) was:

    Off: 0.013A
    Low: 0.51A - 28%
    Med: 1.23A - 68%
    High: 1.795A - 100% (so about 0.9A +/- per LED)

    Someone posted this mode change behaviour previously on MTBR, but I can't remember where and which light. When you change modes the light actually dims very slightly and then "ramps" up in brightness quickly until the next mode level is reached. Off happens instant though. Modes are: Off-Low-Med-High-Off. Press-n-hold for strobe.

    TIR lenses from LED-DNA are interchangeable once removed from the white holder

    Pics:










    Beamshots:

    Low:


    Medium:


    High:


    So even though I felt it was under-driven, the beam on high doesn't look so bad. I think I will still resistor mod it for a little more output and address the lack of heatsinking.

    -Garry

  2. #202
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    Garry, do you have the 10-step mode on yours? 4.2v would be of interest to me- I have a ton of good battery packs for that voltage. Link to the light on KD?
    Thanks.

  3. #203
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    No, mine is not the programmable driver (press-n-hold no matter how long from any mode goes to "strobe"). Link to the one I bought is here. The KD pics show the button on the left, but mine is on the right (like in the other colored light choices).

    I'm looking for suggestions on 4.2v battery pack / holder (for my own individual cells) ideas - got any?

    -Garry

  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Sounds like a bad driver. Did you have a problem getting it replaced?
    I didn't replace it - I just assumed it was a POS and returned it for a refund.

  5. #205
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    WTF with the pic size?

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    No, mine is not the programmable driver (press-n-hold no matter how long from any mode goes to "strobe"). Link to the one I bought is here. The KD pics show the button on the left, but mine is on the right (like in the other colored light choices).

    I'm looking for suggestions on 4.2v battery pack / holder (for my own individual cells) ideas - got any?

    -Garry
    I buy 1S packs (4.2v) from Hunk Lee on eBay- I think his store is All-Battery. He makes them up with genuine panasonic 18650B 3400maH batteries and supplies good connectors. I have 1-cell, 2-cell and 4-cell versions.

    I seal them in self fusing silicone tape, then armour them with heat-shrink tubing. For adventure racing I double-waterproof them with a dab of plasti-dip on the seams.

  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by socal_jack View Post
    WTF with the pic size?
    Huh? Mine? What's wrong?

    -Garry

  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    No, mine is not the programmable driver (press-n-hold no matter how long from any mode goes to "strobe"). Link to the one I bought is here. The KD pics show the button on the left, but mine is on the right (like in the other colored light choices).

    I'm looking for suggestions on 4.2v battery pack / holder (for my own individual cells) ideas - got any?

    -Garry
    Garry, KD sells other lamps that use an input voltage of 4.2 volts. Those are sold using this 4-cell holder. Word of warning though, I bought a similar two cell holder to power my phone from KD. These are cheap pieces of crap. Not that they won't work but you might have a problem using better cells that take up more room. Hopefully I'm wrong about that as these are not the same as mine but at least you have an option. On the up side the holder lets you plug in your lamp and has an additional outlet for charging a phone. Note that the output current is limited to 4A on the bike output side. Anyway mine won't do any of that. Mine is just a two 18650 cell phone charger.

    Option two is to get a custom battery built from Hunk Lee or buy a 4.2 volt battery from a site like BatterySpace. FWIW, KD does sell another lamp just like yours but works off of the standard 8.4 volt battery.

    edit; BTW, judging from the photos the output doesn't look too bad for less than 1A per led. At that level I don't think you need to worry about heat sinking too much.

    edit #2; Doh! I almost forgot, When you do beam shots across a grassy surface the result will always look better than what you see while on a darker/dirt surface. Also applies for paved surfaces as well. Just thought I needed to point that out.
    Last edited by Cat-man-do; 11-12-2014 at 05:53 PM.

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Actually, it is not that odd. It just means that his emitters are arranged in a parallel configuration. Your Securitying® lamp is likely using a board arranged in series. This is one of the reasons though that you have to read all the product descriptions when buying stuff from the Chinese web sites. If they don't list the battery or power requirements you have to send them an email to ask. While doing that you might ask them how the leds are configured as well. It can't hurt to ask, particularly if you are considering modding the lamp.

    Since you mentioned being interested in the current draw it would be more interesting to know what current is being supplied by the driver to the emitters. You could find that out if you unsoldered one of the power wires coming off the driver and placed a multimeter ( set for DCamps ) in series. Turn the lamp on high and you will have an answer. That said I don't know why it would be important unless you plan on trying to alter the driver. While I've heard of people altering the sense resistors I'm not sure that is a good thing to do.

    Anyway, I like the look of your Securitying® Duo clone lamp. I also like that it includes the variable output sub-mode for changing the mode outputs (if you choose to do that ).

    A couple questions for you: How long did it take for you to get your lamp and where was it shipped from? Since you seem to have a nice camera, is there anyway you can include some outdoor beam shots?
    Just because it's possible doesn't make it not odd.

    It's odd because the original versions (Gemini Duo, Lupine Piko, Gloworm X2 as well as most other clones with two emitters that i am aware of are all in series requiring 8.4V).

    I'm interested in the overall amp draw as i have a feeling the emitters are being under powered therefor not providing full brightness. Wouldn't you be interested in finding out if something you purchased wasn't performing to it's advertised potential?

    And yes i will be connecting a DC amp meter in series with the emitters to determine current draw. I will also be connecting an amp meter in series with the battery and driver to see what losses are across the driver.

    Shipping was discussed in my original post. Took 3 days from amazon to deliver within the USA.

    No beam shots yet but its comparable to the first shot in post#88

  10. #210
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    Garry

    Try "batteryspace". I've purchased a few batteries from them with excellent results.

    Also if you ever end up going with a 8.4v head i highly recommend "SPC Racing's" LiPo batteries. Extremely well priced and excellent quality.

  11. #211
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    Cat - I'll have a look at your link in a bit. 4A capable would be plenty for this light
    About the beamshots, yeah I didn't really have the time to get my usual "wooded trail" shots. I take the open grass shots more to compare beam patterns, and then the wooded trail shots for a more realistic representation. I'll see if I can grab those wooded shots in the next couple days.

    -Garry

  12. #212
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    Garry, about that link; Looks like the batteries come with the holder but there's no way to tell if the holder actually opens. I see no screws on front or back. Could be the outer part just slides over one end like the one I have does. I'd ask their client service before buying one. If it does slide over one end that is not a good sign. With the one I have I couldn't use it with the better Panasonic cells because the cells were too long to fit. Even with the 2600mAh Ultrafire cells that did fit the sleeve would rub against the cells ( tearing the wrapping on the cells ). They worked but I surely wouldn't want to keep removing them as doing so was a complete PITA. Hopefully these are better.

  13. #213
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    And if it includes cells it'll be on the slower boat from China to get it! We'll see. I'm not in a rush. And if it has screws, they could only handle so many removals before wearing out.

    -Garry

  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Actually, it is not that odd. It just means that his emitters are arranged in a parallel configuration.
    Yep, you can see the extra trace between the LEDs. This is pretty poor design unless they are under driving the LEDs. Mine doesn't get used much on hight anyway.

    Anyone selling just light heads? I really like the beam and form factor but would like to mod with a decent driver.

  15. #215
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    Sorry, I think Hunk Lee's store is called FMABattery. He can do custom packs ifyou ask him, but shipping is slow from HK now as they don't like to allow Li-ions on air cargo to N.America. Worth the wait though- good packs with genuine cells.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent View Post
    I buy 1S packs (4.2v) from Hunk Lee on eBay- I think his store is All-Battery. He makes them up with genuine panasonic 18650B 3400maH batteries and supplies good connectors. I have 1-cell, 2-cell and 4-cell versions.

    I seal them in self fusing silicone tape, then armour them with heat-shrink tubing. For adventure racing I double-waterproof them with a dab of plasti-dip on the seams.

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by znomit View Post
    Yep, you can see the extra trace between the LEDs. This is pretty poor design unless they are under driving the LEDs. Mine doesn't get used much on hight anyway.

    Anyone selling just light heads? I really like the beam and form factor but would like to mod with a decent driver.
    Yes, mine was light head only, link in post #203 above.

    -Garry

  17. #217
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    If only they could get a system where you click to increase brightness and hold longer to decrease, rather than having to scroll all the way up to get to the low setting, and if they offered a neutral or warmer tinted light...

  18. #218
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    I'm a newbie to these lights but bought one from Fasttech last season on the back of the reviews here. Unfortunately over the summer I lost the charger for it, so I'm hoping someone here might be able to give me some tips on what I need to replace it.

    I've looked at the page for my original purchase and it seems the charger unit that shipped with the order was rated as below:
    AC adapter: AC 100-240V / 50/60Hz input, DC 8.4V / 1000mA output, cable length 110cm
    The battery pack is a 4x18650 setup.

    I've since bought a new charger online which I thought matched the above specs (though it was rated DC 9V). When I connected the charger to the battery (before connecting it to the mains) the charger LED went green, which I thought was a bit odd. Unfortunately, I then plugged it into the wall but after about 1 min there was a pop/flash and the fuse blew. So it is apparent to me that power is flowing in the wrong direction from the battery to the charger.... I went to Maplin and they tried the battery pack on their chargers but the same thing happened, with the battery lighting up the charger LED.

    Really want to get the light going again for this winter without blowing something up or damaging the battery pack - so any advice would be much appreciated!

  19. #219
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    They're fairly cheap, buy another and then you have a spare battery and lamp.
    04 Stumpjumper FSR Pro
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  20. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by thewrightone View Post
    Really want to get the light going again for this winter without blowing something up or damaging the battery pack - so any advice would be much appreciated!
    You'll need any lithium 8.4 Volt charger with appropriate connectors, for example like this one:
    SingFire EU2-85525 EU Plug Power Adapter DC5.5 x 2.5mm - Black (116cm / AC 100~240V ) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

    Do not try to use anything not explicitly designed for lithium batteries, or with end charging voltage other than 8.4 Volt.

  21. #221
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Archie- View Post
    You'll need any lithium 8.4 Volt charger with appropriate connectors, for example like this one:
    SingFire EU2-85525 EU Plug Power Adapter DC5.5 x 2.5mm - Black (116cm / AC 100~240V ) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

    Do not try to use anything not explicitly designed for lithium batteries, or with end charging voltage other than 8.4 Volt.
    I would avoid DX for chargers... they plug in to mains and there is a fire risk....

    Get it from a more reputable source:
    Action-LED-Lights — Magicshine MJ-6012 - 1.8A Charger

  22. #222
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    This MagicShine charger is also powered directly from mains, and at least formerly some MS chargers were reported to catch fire.

    As for DealExtreme chargers, I have plenty of them (as well as ones sourced from FastTech, LightMalls, KaiDomain, eBay etc.) and never had a problem.

    IMHO, the level of safety is approximately the same for all cheap Chinese chargers, and Magicshine is no exception regardless of where you've bought it...

  23. #223
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    Cheers for the prompt and comprehensive replies - looks like it was the Li-ion charger bit that I was missing.

    As the original reply stated, I was tempted to just buy another light set to have a spare since they are that cheap!....... In the end though, I've gone for a replacement charger with UK plug this time around.

    Hopefully it doesn't take too long to arrive and I can get some confidence back on the nighttime roads of London.

  24. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    Huh? Mine? What's wrong?

    -Garry
    They are 4000x3000 pixels, takes up 2x24" monitors wide if you have the "Wide" preference at the bottom of the page selected. Re-sized to 800x600 would be plenty. With "Fixed" selected, they appear more like 480x360

  25. #225
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    Quote Originally Posted by socal_jack View Post
    They are 4000x3000 pixels, takes up 2x24" monitors wide if you have the "Wide" preference at the bottom of the page selected. Re-sized to 800x600 would be plenty. With "Fixed" selected, they appear more like 480x360
    They show up small for me on the forum. Are you viewing the original? Or am I missing something with forum viewing settings?

    Nevermind - I see now. "Wide" doesn't seem to display well for me, even for other's posts so I won't even use it.

    I don't like to resize my original images and I don't see settings to control image display size in the editor.

    -Garry

  26. #226
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    So I have a question about this light.

    How much brighter do U all think the Glowworm X2 is. I was looking at this and thinking I would use this on the helmet w/ a 2 cell battery and just get a second 2 cell for back up. I'm planning attaching the battery to the back of the helmet or top but near the back. Would U consider the beam spot or flood.

    Thx

  27. #227
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    They show up small for me on the forum. Are you viewing the original? Or am I missing something with forum viewing settings?

    Nevermind - I see now. "Wide" doesn't seem to display well for me, even for other's posts so I won't even use it.

    I don't like to resize my original images and I don't see settings to control image display size in the editor.

    -Garry
    Unfortunately this forum doesn't have automatic resizing script. Just set your camera to take a smaller sized pic, or it alternatively it takes literally 2 seconds even in Windows Paint to resize(click the resize button, pick pixels or percentage, select amount(20% would be perfect for your photos), click OK), much preferred to ****ing up the rest of the thread. It's not like these photos are gonna win prizes. Wide is preferred especially in the Passion thread where there's some great photographers like mikesee that resize their shots perfectly.

  28. #228
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    After waiting 12 days I got my new Yinding today.
    It works really nice, only the cable is too short, as I want to place the battery in a bag under my saddle. But this is no problem...
    I also have 10 new Samsung 18650 2000mah cells here and now i am looking for the best (and cheapest) way to use them.
    I really read a lot and found two ways:

    1. Buy a battery case/battery holder for two or four cells and a charger for 18650 cells and charge them seperate.

    2. Buy a lipo charger(like imax b6), some balancer leads(2s) and xt60 plugs and build five 2s packs (or one big 2s2p + 3 2s packs

    I would prefer 1., if I could get this really nice battery case for 2 cells, made by Fenix. I was searching for hours, wrote to dealers, but nobody has it or a similar case for 2 cells.

    Now I like the second solution, because I think the lipo charger can be used for sooo many different types and I could set the max voltage to 4.10 or 4.15V to extend the lifetime....but it would need some time to build five 2s packs. (or one 2s2p and three 2s)


    What do you think?

    [edit] Is it right that you have to unplug the battery otherwise the green LED shines all the time?
    Last edited by Andreas H; 08-02-2015 at 04:33 AM.

  29. #229
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    I took the front off mine yesterday to have a nosey inside it, and the black o-ring that seals the front to the back is split and pinged off. Does anyone know the dimensions so I can order another?

  30. #230
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    Is it possible these XP L High Led
    941-XPLAWT0000BV40E4
    to incorporate in a Yinding?
    Adjusts etc from power?


    XML2 T6

    Produktkategorie: Hochleistungs-LEDs - Weiß
    Hersteller: Cree, Inc.
    RoHS: Einzelheiten
    Beleuchtungsfarbe: Neutral White
    Farbtemperatur: 4500 K
    Lichtstärke: -
    Lichtstrom/Strahlungsleistung: 280 lm
    Farbwiedergabe-Index - CRI: 75
    Ansichtswinkel: 125 deg
    Linsenfarbe/Bauart: Clear
    If - Durchlassstrom: 700 mA
    Vf - Durchlassspannung: 2.85 V
    Montageart: SMD/SMT
    Verpackung/Gehäuse: SMD-2
    Serie: XMLBWT
    Verpackung: Reel
    Fabrikat: Cree, Inc.
    Kenndaten und Eigenschaften: -
    Höhe: 3.02 mm
    LED-Größe: 5 mm x 5 mm x 3.02 mm
    Länge: 5 mm
    Linsengröße: 4.52 mm
    Linsenform: Dome
    Maximale Betriebstemperatur: -
    Minimale Betriebstemperatur: -
    Nennleistung: 10 W
    Werkspackungsmenge: 1000
    Handelsname: XLamp
    Typ: XLamp XM-L2 LEDs
    Vr - Sperrspannung: 5 V
    Breite: 5 mm
    XP L High

    Produktkategorie: Hochleistungs-LEDs - Weiß
    Hersteller: Cree, Inc.
    RoHS: Einzelheiten
    Beleuchtungsfarbe: Neutral White
    Farbtemperatur: 4500 K
    Lichtstärke: -
    Lichtstrom/Strahlungsleistung: 440 lm
    Farbwiedergabe-Index - CRI: 70
    Ansichtswinkel: 125 deg
    Linsenfarbe/Bauart: Clear
    If - Durchlassstrom: 1050 mA
    Vf - Durchlassspannung: 2.95 V
    Montageart: SMD/SMT
    Verpackung/Gehäuse: SMD-2
    Serie: XPLAWT
    Verpackung: Reel
    Fabrikat: Cree, Inc.
    Kenndaten und Eigenschaften: -
    Höhe: 2.68 mm
    LED-Größe: 3.45 mm x 3.45 mm x 2.68 mm
    Länge: 3.45 mm
    Linsengröße: 3.45 mm
    Linsenform: Dome
    Maximale Betriebstemperatur: + 85 C
    Minimale Betriebstemperatur: -
    Nennleistung: -
    Werkspackungsmenge: 500
    Handelsname: XLamp
    Typ: XLamp XP-L LEDs
    Vr - Sperrspannung: 5 V
    Breite: 3.45 mm







    The XML2 T6 has 700mA, the XP L 1050mA If forward current.
    The XML2 T6 2.85 V, the XP L 2.95 V Vf forward voltage.

    Would that fit if I let the Yinding otherwise original

    Can I at XML2 T6 Led dismantle the Led and instead XPL Led mount?Or do I need another star

    Last edited by gecco; 3 Weeks Ago at 11:29 AM.

  31. #231
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    Both leds are electricaly very similar, almost the same so no fear about changing it. See the LED lighting, LEDs, power converters, RF amplifiers | Cree, Inc

  32. #232
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    Can I use the same star or do I need another?

  33. #233
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    Not trying to be rude but if that question has to be asked this is NOT a modification that you should be doing yourself. Without you being able to even learn about what LEDs your dealing with and what your trying to do, this will likely end up ruining your light. This stuff isn't simple plug and play. This level of modification requires knowledge of a lot more than how to solder a wire or 2. Plus there is NO REASON to simply install xp-l emitters, you gain nothing but running a little cooler. Better to just change the optics.



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  34. #234
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    The size of leds are different so you need apropriate PCB (star) for XP-G series of leds (3.5x3.5 mm) something like this:

    Noctigon XP16 V2 Copper MCPCB (2pcs) [SKU D024] - $3.68 : Led Flashlight-International Outdoor Store

    or simply buy already mounted:

    XP-L : Led Flashlight-International Outdoor Store

  35. #235
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    Ledoman, gecco wants XP-L HI LEDs I believe: XP-L HI : Led Flashlight-International Outdoor Store

    As Ledoman said, you need different emitter board (stars) as the XM footprint is larger than the XP footprint. Best to just buy mounted on direct-thermal path Noctigons from Int'l Outdoor Store (I'll vouch for them - Hank is a good guy even if there are the occasional shipping issues.)

    -Garry

  36. #236
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    Ok my apologies here, the post looks COMPLETELY different form my computer than my phone. Had no idea what was going on there with the rough English on top of it. Made no sense but now I get what he's asking. I was thinking he was after the xp-l HI in some low bin so he would have lost a ton of his output.

    And Garry has you covered 100% there. I know mtnelectronics ships world wide as well but Int'l Outdoor seems to have it sorted out a bit better. Prices are about the same in either location.
    Great lights:

    www.ituolights.com

    Life on 2 wheels is the only life for me. Especially once it gets dark.

  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    Ledoman, gecco wants XP-L HI LEDs I believe: XP-L HI : Led Flashlight-International Outdoor Store

    As Ledoman said, you need different emitter board (stars) as the XM footprint is larger than the XP footprint. Best to just buy mounted on direct-thermal path Noctigons from Int'l Outdoor Store (I'll vouch for them - Hank is a good guy even if there are the occasional shipping issues.)

    -Garry
    Ok, I missed it. He was not very precise:

    "The XML2 T6 has 700mA, the XP L 1050mA If forward current."
    "Can I at XML2 T6 Led dismantle the Led and instead XPL Led mount?Or do I need another star"

  38. #238
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    Sorry for the question!
    Which Led i need for Yinding and BT21, XPL or XPL High?
    What is the different?
    I would try the same optics with the original!

  39. #239
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    You can't change the leds in the bt21.

    You need to do research on the different leds (use google) before ordering parts or doing any changes.

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    www.ituolights.com

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  40. #240
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    Really no sense changing XM-L2s to XP-Ls. The XP-L HI might be worth considering IF you're looking to increase throw at the expense of less total output.

    -Garry

  41. #241
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    Did you from the Yinding ever something on the board made, I mean a little more current, or is the housing on limit?

  42. #242
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    Housing can't handle more than stock current. Those of us that push it harder use vancbikers gopro finned adapter mounts. Mr Mole is the expert on then, he has like 10 of them by now

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Great lights:

    www.ituolights.com

    Life on 2 wheels is the only life for me. Especially once it gets dark.

  43. #243
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    How and with which components I could modulate a Gearbest neutral white Yinding the more current to the Leds comes. How would the Xml2 T6 still reasonable?

  44. #244
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    No xml2 t6 is still worse than what is in the light.

    Only upgrade for LEDs is XP-L V6

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Great lights:

    www.ituolights.com

    Life on 2 wheels is the only life for me. Especially once it gets dark.

  45. #245
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    The problem with trying to boost driver current in the Yinding is that it's body is too small to deal with the heat. It's already near or at or beyond its limitations now at stock current.

    -Garry

  46. #246
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    I want to miss my Yindings, Nitefighter Bt21 and BT40 times a cooler.

    Since I've already changed everything on Cateye brackets and I would not want to miss them any more, but I wanted to block a cooler anyway, I came up with this idea!
    Hope it is half way handsome presented.

    In variant 1, only one heat conducting pad and one heat sink are required, in variant 2 a heat conducting pad is a heat sink and the longer the screw is the heat sink is high!

    This looks as follows.

    I could not put it on the fast in a graphic.
    There are 2 possibilities.

    variant 1
    Yinding on top of thermal pad and heat sink.

    Variant shown 2
    I have times measured, with me fit 25x25x10, who wants it in all sizes and thick, hole in the middle drills big as the screw of the holder, thermal pad down to the Yinding, heat sink full to the Yinding bottom To the pad.Yinding hole and heat sink hole should be one on top of the other.From the Cateye adapter plate, fix the adapter plate to the jacks of the cooler and with longer screw the adapter plate
    through the heat sink in the Yinding hole!
    User review: YINDING YD-2XU2 (Gemini Duo clone)-unbenannt.jpg

  47. #247
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    Just got a yinding to replace the kd version I'd been using. From what I read I thought it would be similar output but cooler. This thing is burning up hot. Typically I'll be riding in cooler weather but just testing it out stationary it gets so hot after a minute on high I can't believe it won't burn up. Is this normal or did I just lose the cheap light lottery?

    I was pretty happy with gearbest's shipping, got it in under 2 weeks and the housing and waterproofing is far superior to the KD version.

  48. #248
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    The Yinding runs significantly more current through the emitters (2.4A each IIRC), and that's why it gets hot. Getting hot is normal and a good sign (heat is being transferred). You'll need to either reserve using high for short spurts, during faster movement (i.e. much more airflow across the head), or you could resistor mod it for lower output. Vancbiker's aluminum heatsink GoPro mount is highly recommended for this light.

    -Garry

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