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User Review: Nitefighter BT40S ( CAt Review )

205K views 1K replies 119 participants last post by  Dictatorsaurus 
#1 ·
First Ride; Initial first impression;

I received the BT40S just before leaving for work yesterday. Today I had some good weather so I put the lamp on my bars and took off for a test run.

The BT40S I found to be an interesting lamp. I'll speak more about the setup later but first I want to talk about the ride. Starting temperature for the ride was about 70°F. The 40S is much smaller than I expected, slightly smaller than a typical Tri-clone lamp. Being smaller than expected I was a little worried about over heating. The lamp did get slightly warm to the touch on the higher modes but over all was not a problem. The lamp is set-up with 4-neutral XP-G2 Cree LEDs.

I was pleasantly surprised that the output and beam pattern were quite useable regardless of mode being used. The lamp ( with standard optic ) throws out a medium wide beam pattern that expands the farther out it goes. Because of this the throw suffers a little but not to the point of being unusable. In all I had a very pleasant ride and found I could actual ride almost anything in the lowest mode with no problems unless I really began to ride faster. With the standard optics the beam pattern shines everything very well close to the bike. Distance throw on low is maybe 40-50 feet depending on terrain. The lighter the trail surface the more the light would carry. Over all I was very please with the low mode, that too was unexpected ( Note* I did try the flood optic and yes it supplies a very massive flood beam. No doubt some may like that but sadly it absolutely kills the throw which IMO makes it unusable. )

Distance viewing with the BT40S is a little different than the other bike lamps I have. I have yet to measure the useable distance throw but judging from the initial trail ride and the test I did on a soccer field later after the ride, I would think about 150ft max ( on high ). While this is not near as far as my Gloworms or KD2 lamp can throw it is still enough for general bar use IMO. I also found the lamp worked very well with my other helmet lamp I was using ( SSX3-neutral ). With both lamps on low I could ride almost anything and had no problems seeing, even when riding fast.

The two higher modes of the BT40S ( the lamp has four modes ) were of course better for seeing things a little farther out. During the ride when I used my SSX3 ( on helmet ) I found the two beam patterns complemented each other very well. So much for the initial ride. I'll follow up with more ride reports as I go. As with all my reviews I comment on the things I notice as I go along.

Now a little more about about the BT40S lamp itself. In this section I'll talk about the good and the not so good. The lamp has a large back section where the mode buttons are. Yes, I said "buttons" with an s. Some people will like this type of switch but I've not yet made a decision on it. Press any button and the lamp comes on. The upper button moves the lamp to lower mode levels, the lower button move the modes to upper levels. For the most part I had no problem working the buttons but it does take getting used to.

I did have to do something about the translucent plastic piece that covers the rear buttons. When you turn the lamp on a very bright green voltage indicator illuminates the entire back of the lamp. This I found not to be to my liking. Before leaving for the ride I just cut out a round piece of black duct tape and placed it in the middle, leaving just a small illuminated edge which turned out to work very well for me. Without doing that I would of had WAY too much light shining in my face from the voltage indicators. After the quick fix all worked well and I had no problems seeing or working with the lamp while riding. I'm not completely sold on this two-part UP/Down switch but it worked fine and as such I'll not count it as a negative.

Well, every lamp has some flaws and the BT40S is no exception to the rule. The 40S comes with two sets of optics. The standard and the flood. When I took the retaining ring off the front of the light to try the flood optic I was not impressed with what I saw. First, the emitter board is only held down with a bit of thermal paste ( and the pressure from the quad-optic once installed ). Not a big problem as I see it but you do have to make sure to reposition the emitter board if it slides around while putting in the optics. I had no problem doing this and when finished I found that the lamp got warmer when on. No doubt the retaining ring needed to be tightened to make sure the board was getting better thermal contact.

Last but not least; the biggest negative issue ( IMO ) is that the design of the front of the lamp doesn't seem to take much thought into preventing water ingress.
There is no O-ring at all toward the front of the lamp. That being the case I can see two places that water might be able to enter. . First, around the retaining ring and secondly where the ring contacts the plastic one piece quad optic. A flat good size O-ring might help the water around the optic but if it's too thick the retaining ring won't be able to completely seal. Sadly , the only fix I can see that might work is to use some kind of light grease or sealant to prevent water ingress. That said I've tried doing that to other lamps before without much success. Going forward, I have to try because otherwise I'd never use any lamp on my bars that I wasn't sure could handle a good rain. Hopefully someone else will have some ideas or perhaps the grease idea will be sufficient. It would be a shame to dismiss this lamp for such a problem. Later, I'll test the lamp for water ingress once I do something to fix the problem.

To whom it may concern; This lamp was provided by Nitefighter ( free of charge ) for review purposes. I have no interest in selling Nitefighter or any other brand lamp. My intent is to do an honest user review of the product and give an honest opinion ( pro or con ) on the quality and usability of the product. Thank you. CAt
 
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#183 ·
Just noticed the BT40S lighthead only version on Amazon looks different in the pictures there from the the one they sell in the full package; rather than the fins being concentric, they are oriented horizontally like the MagicShine's. Also illustrations say BT40, not BT40S, though specs are of the S version. Solo BT40S offered on eBay and GB seem to be same as offered in full package. Wonder which version Amazon actually ships, maybe there was just a mix up in pics?
 
#217 ·
Wow Garry that really is strange! Item description says rechargeable Li-Ion so wonder what they are actually delivering. And what's up with their name — Makes you vom, but only a little?!

Cat, that diagram is seriously messed up. Video reviews clearly show a 4x optical array, not separate optics.

Judging by the shell, mount, charger, battery pouch and instruction manual, my guess would be that this is the same manufacturer as NiteFighter's but with different branding. Only item they seem to have changed is headband instead of Velcro helmet straps.

Still something appears fishy because so many reviews appeared around the same time, while some even precede the item's release date on Amazon (though think same might even be true of the Nitefighter.)
 
#220 ·
Wow Garry that really is strange! Item description says rechargeable Li-Ion so wonder what they are actually delivering. And what's up with their name - Makes you vom, but only a little?!

Cat, that diagram is seriously messed up. Video reviews clearly show a 4x optical array, not separate optics.

Judging by the shell, mount, charger, battery pouch and instruction manual, my guess would be that this is the same manufacturer as NiteFighter's but with different branding. Only item they seem to have changed is headband instead of Velcro helmet straps.

Still something appears fishy because so many reviews appeared around the same time, while some even precede the item's release date on Amazon (though think same might even be true of the Nitefighter.)
Yes, I was thinking the same; More than likely the lamp is exact same lamp as Nitefighter ( but with cheaper battery ). The photo of the internal optical array is likely off. Likely using the same quad-Op as BT40S ( only the VomLite doesn't include the flood optic. From what I understand that is an aftermarket extra.

Yeah, the reviews do look "Shillish" and when it comes to Chinese made lamps it really wouldn't surprise me.

Oh, I forgot to mention before; The VomLite people told me the lamp IS using XP-G2 neutral LED's. Supposedly the product is shipped from the USA. How much of any of this is true is anyone's guess. :rolleyes:
 
#530 ·
OK, fifth ride with BT40S (and some rides with Tri clone and KD duo in between). This lamp is not what I needed or wanted. Output still feels very low (I know, it's because of flood & tint). Maybe I'm riding too fast or my trails are not technical enough... but I don't need light with a throw limited to maybe 40 feet. Strangely, for me riding was best with the Tri on high (headlamp) and the BT40 on low (only as emergency light).

Just to be clear: I don't wanna be the troll here, this only my second post on the forum. I'm really thankful for all the reviews and info provided by you guys here, and I'm glad some are very happy with their BT40S. I'm not happy with it.

I'd like to sell it (lamphead only), anyone interested please PM. I paid 30,- EUR at GearBest, gonna give it away for 25,-. Expect fast delivery (compared to Gearbest...), at least within Europe.
 
#569 ·
FWIW, i really wish there was a spottier 4x optic available for the BT40s. I think Nitefighter really need to modify the optics (in both models). The BT40s lights up 2m to my left and right which I really dont need, clearly reducing the intensity where i want it. Lack of throw is also significant (as with the 21). I dont want this to turn into "slate the BT40s", expectations and requirements are entirely subjective. Its certainly a useable light, built to a better standard than SolarStorm for example, but the truth is the beam pattern is far from perfect. If potential buyers find themselves here for feedback, i think its only fair to bring this up. Its a real shame, they have got it right for 95% of the unit, and the cheapest component is what lets it down!
Thinking about it, ive seen numerous other threads about lights being too spotty, with everyone trying to figure out how to diffuse the beam, just as NF owners are trying to tighten it. So NF certainly arent alone in missing the mark regarding beam pattern.
For the sake of $0.10, i dont see why they cant provide flood & spot optics with the light and let the user choose...
 
#1,157 ·
Hi, sorry for posting just the pics with no text but I´m new to the forum so I didn´t know how to use the attacment.
I was posting the solution I found for the gorpo compatible mount using a tripod adapter an a gopro handlebar mount, you just have to remove the bolt and replace it with an m3 one, and also make the cable guide with a hot metal and there you go.
links to the parts :

https://www.banggood.com/PULUZ-Tripod-Mount-Screw-Connecting-Adapter-for-Gopro-SJCAM-Xiaomi-Yi-Action-Camera-p-1151752.html?rmmds=search"]https://www.banggood.com/PULUZ-Tripod-Mount-Screw-Connecting-Adapter-for-Gopro-SJCAM-Xiaomi-Yi-Action-Camera-p-1151752.html?

https://www.banggood.com/Red-Bike-Handlebar-318mm-Mount-For-Gopro-Hero-1233-Camera-p-924422.html?
 
#2 ·
Nice description Cat, thanks.
The upper button moves the lamp to lower mode levels, the lower button move the modes to upper levels. For the most part I had no problem working the buttons but it does take getting used to.
What if you open rear side and just rotate circuit inside for 180deg? It seems to me it is just wrongly assembled. Magicshine MJ-872 has it proper designed Up for increase and Down for decrease. I think BT40 should operates the same.
 
#3 · (Edited)
What if you open rear side and just rotate circuit inside for 180deg? It seems to me it is just wrongly assembled. Magicshine MJ-872 has it proper designed Up for increase and Down for decrease. I think BT40 should operates the same.
Yes it is very easy for the circuit board to rotate along with the silicone boot during rear assembly. There is a white plastic/nylon retaining ring that presses against the back of the board; tamping it down tightly in place helps hold the board in position when you re-assemble the lamp. You will probably also have to keep a thumb on the boot too, in order to keep it from rotating out of 12:00/6:00 as you tighten the alloy end cap back on.

Product Electronic device Technology White Circuit component


Yeah Cat I was surprised too at Garry Bunk's tear down of the BT40S showing there was no gasket or O-ring between the lens and retaining ring. Wonder whether the MagicShine or other clone version are similar in that regard. OTOH, one in my lamp is screwed down so tight, seriously doubt water could ever penetrate. Perhaps because the lens is frosted resin rather than glass it has enough give to be self-sealing or at least provide a highly water-resistant barrier.
 
#4 ·
My thoughts too Andy on that seal against the optic. I doubt it's waterproof, but would expect it to be very water resistant.

My switch came properly installed with upper button increasing and lower button decreasing.

I agree with CAt on the battery indicator light being way too bright. This is evident in my beamshot pics.

-Garry
 
#5 ·
My concerns for waterproofing have diminished after a few cold to warm cycles with most of my lights causing condensation anyway. It seems almost impossible to keep moisture out altogether so as long as it's reasonably closed off its good enough for me. I'd like to see manufacturers begin to start potting the circuitry, though I guess it would make modding a bit tricky. The retaining ring on my BT40S was snugged pretty tight so I think that would suffice, otherwise a bit of grease would probably do the trick. It may be worth mentioning to Andy though, as it would likely only cost them a few pennies to implement
 
#7 ·
Nice review cat!

I do have a question, the lamp head is the same price as about any other Chinese lighthead that's decent quality (yinding, solarstorms via GB) so I personally expect about the same. The "kit" to me seems questionable on price until pack is shown to be worth the extra vs other Chinese packs.

But that's my 2 cents im going off what lights ive tested vs what ive paid thus far.

And mine will finally be here I think tomorrow if not Tuesday at the latest (head was at a hub between me and Chicago as of Saturday night, headed my way)
 
#9 ·
Good review Cat-man-do!

I have to question if it's worth the extra money when you can get this light for $15
USA Stealth Black 1600 LM 4 CREE XP G LED Bike Light Light Head Only 872 A | eBay

I know Garry compared the two light here
New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2015 - Page 5- Mtbr.com

and he said the Nitefighter was superior. But I can't see myself spending the extra money on a Nitefighter.

The "[USA] Stealth Black" is obviously a clone of the Magishine 872. I bought mine about two years ago for around $32 and used it for 6 months before I moved on to other lights. I was ecstatic with the light at the time. My only other modern light at the time was an Magicshine 808E and I preferred the 872 clone because it just put out tons of light in broad flood. It's an awesome light. The major downside of the light that it doesn't have the super-long throw. Here's a thread were a couple of guys discussed the light
http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/good-chinese-flood-bars-873174.html

The thing that bugs me about Nitefighter is that they have been around for at least two years and nobody ever posted anything about them. In fact there are only 6 threads with the name "Nitefighter" in the thread title. The oldest three threads (nearly two years ago) only have a total of three replies for all three threads. They were completely ignored! Plus the threads were started by someone appearing to be working for the company. In my opinion they were always too expensive and too unknown to make it worth a purchase. I never really trusted them, to be honest. In my opinion they sold copies of Magicshine lights at nearly the Magishine price so you might as well buy a Magicshine. Plus you can buy a Magicshine from Jim at action led who will give you excellent customer service as well as a warranty. The Nitefighter lights were always a clone light with twice the price.

Now there is a renewed interest in this brand. I guess because because they have dropped their prices. Was that it? Or is it marketing strategy 2.0? Maybe they were they just under-appreciated for the last two years? I don't know. I'm still skeptical.
 
#10 ·
Well, as far as the lighthead anyway. They were one of the first companies to offer NW from the factory which is a plus, and they also use the xp-g2 not the xp-g. So for an extra 15 dollars I feel that is worth it. As far as quality I don't have both but I do have an mj872 that I just need to get back from a friend to compare to
 
#11 ·
The Magicshine 872 also isn't without it's flaws. I remember in the main mtbr light shoot-out the light initially put out a great amount of light, but then stepped down by a huge a amount as it became hot and then would stay at that reduced output for the remainder of the run-time.
 
#13 ·
So, initial thoughts on this light, IMPRESSED.

Found there is oring behind the optic. That's where the seal is. Ring pushes optic against it make case seal there.

Battery wire has rubber grommet at the case. I dont think it'd handle being submerged but waterproofing is better than/on par with yinding.

And holy crap that's alotta light for a simple round head. I need to put it up against my ss x3. Still has a "spot" but its freaking NICE.
 
#17 ·
Battery wire has rubber grommet at the case.
Thanks! I was wrong before but thrilled to see there actually is a grommet there, so perfectly set into the case it is almost invisible. So between that and the O-ring behind the optic, looks like the Nitefighter should live up to its declared specs after all. :)

Glad to hear you are impressed with the lamp head, hope you get a lot of use out of it, tigris.
 
#18 ·
For the record, I knew about that O-ring. I didn't mention it because where it was mounted ( found mine down inside beyond the lip ) just didn't make any sense. When I first looked at it I didn't see how it could serve any purpose down inside the lamp. Maybe it's suppose to sit higher up on the lip and seal the underside of the optic. (?) I need to take another look at it. I figure even if I can position it to do that it still does nothing to prevent water from getting beyond the outer retaining ring. If water gets inside the ring there might be fogging of the optic if the emitter area isn't completely sealed off.

I haven't had time to take another look at mine but last night when I was cleaning the front of mine I noticed the optic made a small popping/creaking noise when I pressed against it. Once again this might be happening because the optic needs to sit on the O-ring and the O-ring isn't there anymore ( I took mine out ). I need to fix this or it's more possible that water will get inside.
 
#20 ·
Hmm, I'm gonna have to take another look at that O-ring to optic seal (guess I missed it).

I could try posting comparisons to my SSX3 as I take my photos at the same locations. I already posted comparisons between the 872 clone and SSX3 elsewhere. I don't think I have Yinding photos yet since I already had snow on the ground when I received it (i.e. never got a chance to take pics in decent conditions).

By the way, remember this lights driver pushes the LEDs a tad harder than the EBay clone too.

-Garry
 
#21 · (Edited)
Well I got sent back home from work tonight so wait for it to get dark to start working on all this. Yinding up first, then ill do comparisons on bt40 and ss x3, both are already mounted to my bike, black yinding will be added to bars and blue one (which I switched emitters around already) on my helmet. If it doesn't rain, ill head down to the park again where ive got space (and paved trails which are basically paved, wooded double track). And work on some pics.



Hope cat can get more done on his review tonight, he's way better at this than me so want his full honest thoughts on this thing.

Oh and @ cat. The oring has a seat around the perimeter that should be at the edge of the optic, but its slightly too big so urs very well may have popped out and fallen when you started to remove the optic. Mine is a little big. Nitefighter needs to know and correct that one, its a nightmare to get it to stay well enough to reassemble.

And ignore my question, I understand your thought process now.
 
#23 ·
....Oh and @ cat. The o-ring has a seat around the perimeter that should be at the edge of the optic, but its slightly too big so urs very well may have popped out and fallen when you started to remove the optic. Mine is a little big. Nitefighter needs to know and correct that one, its a nightmare to get it to stay well enough to reassemble...
I took a look at it again when I got home tonight. This time with fresh eyes. I repositioned the O-ring so it sits closer to the top of the lip but like was said, the o-ring is a little big so hard to say if it's going to remain flush with the underside of the optic. I think it would of been better with a slightly smaller size O-ring and perhaps a tad thicker.

Anyway, I put it back together and all seems normal as far as I can tell. I'm not feeling or hearing any creaking from the optic so I guess it's seated better. Sometime this week I'll test it with a shower to see how it holds up.
 
#22 ·
Ok im gonna let cat do his thing but I opened mine up all the way...i can't find anything that needs attention.....the usual basic needs aren't needed here, other than the battery wire which is obvious and waiting for order from dx to see if those ones are actually 20awg (magic shine arent more like 20ga so in between 22 and 20awg). But im lost and confused, got 2 light heads in today and both....beside adding remote to yinding..... Nothing to do besides take pics lol.
 
#24 ·
waiting for order from dx to see if those ones are actually 20awg (magic shine arent more like 20ga so in between 22 and 20awg).
Just cut one of mine open to send light head portion out to the guy custom modding my HD-016. It seems to be 20awg to me. Matches up perfectly to wire bought as and labeled as 20awg.

-Garry
 
#25 ·
Sweet. I had to do some better measuring of magicshine cable and I guess is kind of is 20awg. Caliper had it slightly below that of my 20awg silicone wire I get from mtnelectronics but much larger than the 22awg china stuff. Plus now using the case from my mudder kd2 kit, magicshine cable for the case on Panasonics I dont get noticable voltage drop even with the roughly 400mA I just boosted my driver :p
 
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