Page 5 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast
Results 401 to 500 of 603
  1. #401
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MRMOLE's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,572
    Quote Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
    I am having fun. Just wondering what the brightest setting is that will last about 2:30 without having to carry any extra batteries with me. Is it 50%, 60%, 70%...?

    Like I said, I'll experiment and find out.
    It's not that I didn't think you were having fun, listening to your comments just reminded me of my experience with my Taz 1500. It had 5 different steady light levels between the two programs but high was really the only one I cared for and its 1.5 hr. runtime was just about exactly what my after work rides lasted. Way too many times I ended up limping home on an extremely low setting or doing the whole ride with less light than I was comfortable with. I still had fun but it definitely took away some of the enjoyment for me. If playing around with your adjustable driver settings is what you're wanting to do than I think you've come to the right conclusion, you just need to experiment (I can relate to that too). If it starts to be a PITA dealing with inconsistent ride times (having a slow day) or inconsistent runtimes because of temperature, batteries are pretty easy to change on the Wiz20. Because of how your using your light I'd consider some emergency runtime essential but that's just a suggestion.
    Mole

  2. #402
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    1,536
    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Hey

    Being that discussion I decided to take a look as I have more than 1 wiz20. One happens to have the stock 10deg optics, other has wide spots and third is mix wide and flood.

    I have a truly white area in my shop (set up for taking photos) and I decided to shine each one on it.

    First the one with stock optics looked REALLY yellow but batteries are almost dead. Swapped out and still fairly yellow on a white surface.

    Mine that I use for road has the dual wide spots. Those look insanely "true white" and the one with one flood optic is almost as "true white" but since there is no series hot spot on the flood optic it's hard too tell.

    Problem isn't the light, just that the narrow spot optics bring out the yellow more than the wide spot. Though the wide spot has the same size hot spot it's a really smooth transition making it look wider.

    If you want to try a set of wide spot optics LMK.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    So I received my dual wide optics yesterday. Didn't make the light insanely true white at all. Still have the yellowish tint to them.

    I really like all of the features of this light but not a fan of the yellowish tint. Wish there was a way to change that.

    The light I had been using is the cycletorch Shark 500 which has more of a bright white light that I prefer. Maybe It's just something I need to get used to.

    https://cycletorch.com/products/shar...bike-light-set

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
    Last edited by prj71; 01-20-2017 at 07:43 AM.

  3. #403
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    499
    Its all in the details. Do a little side by side comparison. Pick out a small trail feature and switch back and forth. I did this with the wind gently moving the tall grass on the side of the trail. I didn't notice the movement with the cool white light. Neutral light showed every blade of grass moving in the wind. My vision is borderline glasses time tho, so results and effectiveness of neutral vs cool will vary.

  4. #404
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    3,337
    Quote Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
    So I received my dual wide optics yesterday. Didn't make the light insanely true white at all. Still have the yellowish tint to them.

    I really like all of the features of this light but not a fan of the yellowish tint. Wish there was a way to change that.
    It is possible that your LEDs are on the warm side of the range for the tint they are supposed to be. Often there is about 500K range for any given tint. Posting a pic here might be helpful for others to see if your light is more yellow than most.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  5. #405
    RAKC
    Reputation: tigris99's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    7,128
    The other thing is eyes, especially if using a light that's cool white beside it.

    Mine is on the cooler side but still acceptable . The other o e I checked is more yellow but optics made a difference in how yellow.

    NW isn't for everyone especially when cool white has been beaten into us for decades as being the best thing since sliced bread.

    Impossible to get used to though when mixing tints.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

  6. #406
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    1,536
    Did a ride last Thursday in 28 degree temps with the light on max brightness. Elapsed time was 1:32. Red light came on indicating low battery a little over an hour into the ride. Normal?

  7. #407
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    Yes it's below freezing that's what happens when batteries get cold, especially when you don't keep the light good and warm before the ride.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  8. #408
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    1,536
    The light was good and warm before the ride. It was in my pocket before I put it on the bars.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  9. #409
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    Below freezing you'll still loose a fair amount of run time, below 40 is where it starts to become noticeable. All part of riding in the winter sadly.

    I'd also make sure it's fully charged(put it back on the USB charger) a bit before you roll out, top it off and make sure you get every last little bit of run time.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  10. #410
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    76

  11. #411
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    Hey, I've been looking ALL OVER for that damn graph again. Thanks for posting it!!!

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  12. #412
    arc
    arc is online now
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    272
    I got caught in a pretty heavy snow squall the other night, had two Wiz20's on the bars set on medium. Visability was 10 to 15 feet and snow was building up on my eyelashes. There was so much light being reflected back in my face that I had to put one light on low and turn the other off. 30 minutes later the snow eased up and I turned the second light back on at medium, a little while later the snow stopped. Another half hour and I was back at the car. Temperature was -5 Celsius or 23 Fahrenheit.

    The Wiz that was on low still had snow stuck to the lens and body, the light on medium had no snow and was completely dry. If the outside of the light was able to warm up that much after being off that long the temperature inside the battery cell was probably over 8 Celsius.

    The light on high draws over twice the current of medium, that should keep the cells warm enough to not be bothered by the cold in all but extreme conditions.

    If you plan on pushing run time to the max, either charge the batteries right before the ride or don't store them in the light. The power button is easy to accidentally turn on and some of these lights self discharge themselves. I have a version one and two that are guilty of it. Its not worth the downtime for me to send them in for warranty plus the V1 yellows up nicely on low, works great in fog and heavy snow. I won the tint lottery on that one, don't want to risk loosing it.

    A second set of cells is cheap insurance and swapping cells is fast and easy, then you can ride as long as you want. A two cell storage case takes up little space in a pocket. They are dirt cheap at Mountain Electronics, free if you buy a cell from them. They also sell inexpensive chargers that do each cell individually, the Wiz charges them in series so if the cells become unbalanced the lower voltage one will never get fully charged. Another plus for external charging is you get to monitor battery temperature. They get cold pretty fast once the light is turned off and take a while to warm up enough to charge.

    Two Wiz 20's work well together, almost as much total output as an XP4. Probably more usable light on the trail since you get to pick the optics and how they are aimed. Tons of run time with both on medium and the option for more light is always there. With a spare set of batteries in my pack I never worry about conserving light, batteries going dead or not having enough light. My night rides are so much better now that I can ride and stop as much as I want without that stuff in the back of my head.

  13. #413
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    499
    Yep, I like yellow, just not yellow snow! Sounds like a ride you will remember, arc!

  14. #414
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    1,536
    Did a 5 mile ride tonight in 15 degree weather. I had the light set at mid which I custom programmed to 70% . For the last 2 miles of the ride I wanted to set it at high which I have programmed at 100% , except it wouldn't switch to high.

    Does cold weather do something to the light making this happen?

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  15. #415
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    Look at effects of batteries at those temps. At your speeds the light head was cold so batteries didn't have enough juice left in them to kick back up. And make sure your programming is fully set right.

    Lithium batteries don't like cold and above he though because he went from off up to medium that's why the head was dry. Not actually the case because these can't get that hot on high when it's cold.

    That graph posted will give you a solid idea of how long you have based on outside temps. Running on high mode will prolong the run time a little but the faster you go the colder the head is going to get.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  16. #416
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MRMOLE's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,572
    Quote Originally Posted by RAKC Ind View Post
    Look at effects of batteries at those temps. At your speeds the light head was cold so batteries didn't have enough juice left in them to kick back up. And make sure your programming is fully set right.

    Lithium batteries don't like cold and above he though because he went from off up to medium that's why the head was dry. Not actually the case because these can't get that hot on high when it's cold.

    That graph posted will give you a solid idea of how long you have based on outside temps. Running on high mode will prolong the run time a little but the faster you go the colder the head is going to get.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    I don't have any low temperature problems where I live but was wondering if it would be possible to make up some sort of thermal sock to cover the back of the light in extreme cold so it retains heat better? Reducing the amount of heat-sink surface area could only help.
    Mole

  17. #417
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    Mole

    Funny you should say that lol.

    But my idea was opposite for external packs in the neoprene pouches. Stuff a handwarmer in them. Good ones last a few hours. Was thinking of trying it this weekend. 2 hr or less ride and see if the handwarmer is still warm.

    Your idea though has me thinking, I have a sewing machine and neoprene isn't hard to get, kind of pricey but not hard to get. Think I have some left over fleece laying around too lol.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  18. #418
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MRMOLE's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,572
    I was thinking of something cheap and quick like a neoprene soda can holder trimmed to fit and held together with zip ties or Velcro straps. Super easy to cut relief areas for mount. Your idea sounds a lot nicer looking, you could call it a "Wiz-mit"!
    Mole

  19. #419
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    I didn't even think about coozies lol. That's an awesome idea!!!

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  20. #420
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    1,536
    Quote Originally Posted by RAKC Ind View Post
    Look at effects of batteries at those temps. At your speeds the light head was cold so batteries didn't have enough juice left in them to kick back up. And make sure your programming is fully set right.
    My programming is set right. Light works fine this morning in the warm house. I find it odd that the high mode wouldn't work.

    Lithium batteries don't like cold and above he though because he went from off up to medium that's why the head was dry. Not actually the case because these can't get that hot on high when it's cold.
    I have no clue what you are trying to say here.

  21. #421
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    Autocorrect on my phone had issues apparently

    There is nothing wrong with the light, it's because of the cold.

    Batteries got too cold, they didn't have enough power to run high mode. You would have switched to high but gained no output.

    There is nothing wrong with the light. It's the winter temperatures. Everyone that lives where it's cold has to deal with it. Does matter what light you buy, it's all going to be the same. Only option for better is make a sock like Mole posted or use a light with external battery pack and figure out how to keep it warm.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  22. #422
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    1,536
    I have a Cycletorch Shark 500 light and Cateye Volt 300 light...neither of them exhibit this type of behavior in cold temps. All of the brightness modes work.

    Seems like a design flaw to me with the Wiz20

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  23. #423
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MRMOLE's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,572
    If you guys try the thermal sock method please post something on how it worked. Since it never gets that cold where I live I have no way of testing it but am still curious. Thanks!
    Mole

  24. #424
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MRMOLE's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,572
    [QUOTE]
    Quote Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
    I have a Cycletorch Shark 500 light and Cateye Volt 300 light...neither of them exhibit this type of behavior in cold temps. All of the modes work.

    Seems like a design flaw to me with the Wiz20

    Sent from my SM
    Not a design flaw but designed to work in much higher temperatures. Where I ride 100 degree night ride temps. are common in the summer. Not familiar with your shark but here cateye's are known for overheating so it makes sense they would work better in the cold (for keeping battery temps. up). Think big radiator surface area on semi trucks. in winter months they have covers over half the radiator to keep operating temps. up. I wouldn't consider the large radiators a design flaw. Large metal surface area of the Wiz20 is just like a large radiator IMO.
    Mole
    Last edited by MRMOLE; 02-02-2017 at 12:42 PM.

  25. #425
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    1,536
    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    Not a design flaw but designed to work in much higher temperatures.
    I was addressing RACK statement which isn't true...

    Quote Originally Posted by RAKC Ind View Post
    Doesn't matter what light you buy, it's all going to be the same. Only option for better is make a sock like Mole posted or use a light with external battery pack and figure out how to keep it warm.

  26. #426
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    OK I'll clarify because little tiny lights are comparing apples to oranges here.

    Those tiny lights draw about 15-30% of the power from the battery that the wiz20 does.

    Any light with HIGH LUMEN OUTPUT will have the same issues.

    It's not that high doesn't work because the mode works fine in the cold. It's not a "design flaw" with the light.

    It's limitations of lithium batteries in the cold. That can't supply the power for high mode to actually be a noticeable switch.

    I am confused though, you don't like anything about the light why not send it back?

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  27. #427
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    1,536
    Settle down...I do like the light. But I find it odd and somewhat disappointing that all modes don't work as advertised. There should be a disclaimer somewhere stating that temps affect it's ability to work in the highest brightness setting.

  28. #428
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    There isn't a disclaimer because no need for one. Lights work fine. Just reduced performance. It's common knowledge that cold temps greatly reduce performance of batteries.

    Is there a disclaimer that your car come with a disclaimer that may be slow starting in the cold due to cold battery and oil?

    No one thinks of those things because its a given. So who would think to put up a disclaimer? No light I have ever seen has one but they are all effected heavily by the cold.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  29. #429
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    133
    Quote Originally Posted by rakc ind View Post
    there isn't a disclaimer because no one has said a word about it because it does work. Works fine. No company out there that i am aware of has a disclaimer that temperatures effect performance. But anything battery powered is effected by the cold.

    Is there a disclaimer that your car may be slow to start when it's cold because the battery and oil are cold?

    Sent from my xt1565 using tapatalk
    lol

  30. #430
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    1,536
    Common knowledge that cold affects batteries and battery life...I agree.

    However it's not common knowledge that the highest brightness setting on the light may not work in cold temps.

    Those are 2 separate issues.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  31. #431
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    Actually their not. High mode "works" fine.

    Like a cold car. Starter turns slowly because battery has problems supplying the necessary power because it's cold.

    Same with LEDs, when it's capacity is already low and batteries are cold they cant supply the power required by the LEDS to provide full power. Any battery powered light will respond the same way. It's exactly the same as when you try to select high mode when the battery is drained. Nothing happens. It's in high mode but there isn't any juice left in the batteries to produce any change in lumen output.

    Even your other lights will do the same thing.

    The wiz20 will function fine as long as their is enough power left in the batteries to do it. At 15degs you loose a major portion of your battery capacity. You rode a few miles further diminishing the capacity. By the time you wanted High mode there wasn't anything left to boost the output.

    The lights have a 2 year warranty but a new one (or different brand) won't act any differently as a warning. This is part of dealing with winter riding. Also why some lights are made mostly of plastic. So they can survive the cold a bit better but as Mole pointed out, in the summer they badly overheat.

    Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  32. #432
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    Here to better show this:

    Do that ride again on fully charged batteries.

    When you get back, remove the batteries and leave them out in the cold. Let the light itself warm up inside.

    Then go outside and run the light in medium then try high again. You'll get the same results.

    Or do it in reverse. Let the batteries warm up. Recharge them and remove them. Leave them inside where it's warm. Put the lighthead outside for a good while so it's good and frozen (without the batteries). Then put the warm batteries in it. Light will work perfectly normal UNTIL the batteries get really cold again.

    This is why Mole brought up a "sock". To try and trap any heat created by the light to keep the batteries warm.

    Trust me I get that it's frustrating when your not used to dealing with them. Don't forget I love in the same conditions you do (not THAT far away). But this stuff was nothing unexpected to me as its no different than my 18650 flashlights that I leave in our vehicles. When it's good and cold they loose output and battery capacity badly. Annoying but that's where either spare cells come in, or Mole's "WIZ-Mitt" (PS Mole, I might steal that name from you ;p )

    Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  33. #433
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    1,611
    It's easy to explain. In cold conditions battery voltage is lower than Vf of the led for desired level (ie. current) so the leds run at lower current. So as have been said if the battery can't provide enough power the leds can't run higher.

    prj71, to understand it more you should study how leds are working. Most can't understand leds are dependant on voltage and current at the same time. If you change the voltage you affect the current (resulted in light output). This is the only reason you get feeling the Hi mode doesn't work. It works, just the output is limited by input power.

  34. #434
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    76

    Idea!

    Return/sell the Wiz20 and get a WIZ XP2, 4 cell battery, and stuff the battery in a frame bag. That way you will have reliable light even when the temperature is way below freezing.

    Peace!

  35. #435
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    1,536
    Quote Originally Posted by RAKC Ind View Post
    Actually their not. High mode "works" fine.

    Like a cold car. Starter turns slowly because battery has problems supplying the necessary power because it's cold.

    Same with LEDs, when it's capacity is already low and batteries are cold they cant supply the power required by the LEDS to provide full power. Any battery powered light will respond the same way. It's exactly the same as when you try to select high mode when the battery is drained. Nothing happens. It's in high mode but there isn't any juice left in the batteries to produce any change in lumen output.

    Even your other lights will do the same thing.

    The wiz20 will function fine as long as their is enough power left in the batteries to do it. At 15degs you loose a major portion of your battery capacity. You rode a few miles further diminishing the capacity. By the time you wanted High mode there wasn't anything left to boost the output.

    The lights have a 2 year warranty but a new one (or different brand) won't act any differently as a warning. This is part of dealing with winter riding. Also why some lights are made mostly of plastic. So they can survive the cold a bit better but as Mole pointed out, in the summer they badly overheat.

    Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
    The batteries were at full charge when I started off. When I ended the ride the switch was still blue indicating I did not reach the 20% threshold yet.

  36. #436
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    1,536
    Quote Originally Posted by Stark View Post
    Return/sell the Wiz20 and get a WIZ XP2, 4 cell battery, and stuff the battery in a frame bag. That way you will have reliable light even when the temperature is way below freezing.

    Peace!
    No thanks. Not a fan of lights with wires and battery packs. I like the self contained units.

  37. #437
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    Stark

    For me that doesn't do anything. Get more run time but at 15 degs it's still way below normal. I had a small frame bag just for my multi tool, phone and place to put a battery pack. Everything was still frozen for me by the end of a ride. I always have to make sure my phone is mostly charged before going out so it still works by the time I get back.

    The issue is the aluminum body of the wiz20. Exceptionally effective cooling, but not such a good thing in the cold. Not sure why the light is taking the blame because their nothing wrong with it, just it cools very well, too well in the winter time lol.

    That brings me back to my hand warmer idea. In a frame bag it would last longer for keeping the pack warm.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  38. #438
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    76

    Good job!

    The 4 cell pack is the secret and for me the battery is not "frozen" despite 2 hours in -10 centigrade, so I'm not sure how you are doing things. 2-3 amps going through should be more than enough to keep the core warm if the battery is protected from the wind.


    Peace!

  39. #439
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    4 cell definitely helps a lot, but I've noticed a similar percentage loss in run time when it gets that cold. Still almost twice what the wiz20 would get.

    I haven't had a chance to try out the Ituo battery packs in the serious cold yet since their in neoprene pouches it may make a big difference.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  40. #440
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    76
    Maybe. I have one in neoprene too, from a worn out Magicshine battery. Will try it if it gets really cold.

    Have a great day!

    Peace.

  41. #441
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    Keep us updated how that goes, thanks!

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  42. #442
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    122

    Wiz20 Charge Indicator Not Working?

    Delete

  43. #443
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    122
    I have only charged this light 4-5 times and now the blue light (indicating a full charge) no longer emits no matter how long it is on the USB charger. I can't remember if a red light turns on during charge but there is no light appearing at the button. I have tried several different cords that work on other devices. I am not quite sure if the light is still charging or now. Anyone experience this?

  44. #444
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MRMOLE's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,572
    Does the battery life indicator come on when you turn the light on? If not there's a problem with the indicator and it might still charge OK. If it does come on when the light operates it might be a problem with the USB port. I had a couple of USB lights (not Ituo) that has been a problem with. Either way Ituo has a good warranty and I'm sure it will be taken care of.
    Mole

  45. #445
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    122
    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    Does the battery life indicator come on when you turn the light on? If not there's a problem with the indicator and it might still charge OK. If it does come on when the light operates it might be a problem with the USB port. I had a couple of USB lights (not Ituo) that has been a problem with. Either way Ituo has a good warranty and I'm sure it will be taken care of.
    Mole
    The blue light still turns on when the light is on.

  46. #446
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MRMOLE's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,572
    Quote Originally Posted by TrailBlaza View Post
    The blue light still turns on when the light is on.
    So it sounds like it may be a USB port issue or something in the wiring in that area and safest assumption it's not charging the batteries. Even if it is you still should contact the seller as ability to tell when the batteries are fully charged is an important function of the light (I'm sure you know this). I would think it's still OK to use the light especially if you have the ability to charge the batteries with a different charger. Sucks to have problems though. Good luck.
    Mole

  47. #447
    arc
    arc is online now
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    272
    It could be the protection circuit in one or both of the cells is ending the charge before the Wiz had finished its charge cycle. Unbalanced cells will do this, the cell with the higher voltage will open to prevent itself from being overcharged. The cells are charged in series so if one cell opens charging stops, the lower voltage cell will never fully charge and the blue light won't come on. The fix is to use a charger that will charge each cell individually or find a way to balance the cells.

    If you have access to a voltmeter you can check each cell. Each one should be around 4.2 Volts after charging.

    Not sure if it applies to you, but if you are riding below freezing give the light about an hour to warm up after you bring it inside before charging. Charging batteries when they are cold is hard on them.

  48. #448
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    1,536
    Was charging my Wiz20 last night and the button light kept changing back and forth between red and blue.

    What's that all about?

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  49. #449
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    Weak charger or bad connection with the charger. Also happens if you try to charge cold batteries.

    Unplug it from the charger and plug it back in.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  50. #450
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    1,536
    2 amp charger. Lights been in the house for 3 days

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  51. #451
    arc
    arc is online now
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    272
    Quote Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
    Was charging my Wiz20 last night and the button light kept changing back and forth between red and blue.

    What's that all about?

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
    Probably unbalanced batteries, the higher voltage cell is getting overcharged and the protection circuit in the battery is opening up. Once it opens charging stops, the protection circuit resets then the light starts charging again which causes the protection circuit to open up due to overcharging and the cycle repeats.

    The lower voltage battery will never get fully charged. You need to balance your cells.

  52. #452
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    1,536
    Dumb. You think the cells would be balanced and I wouldn't have to do this.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  53. #453
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    They are balanced when shipped. They can loose balance when used especially during extreme hot or cold. But that takes a fair amount of time.

    And chances are it's not the cells. I've had several contact me about the same thing. Only 2 was the cells out of balance. That was the first batch of them almost a year ago, badly out of balance. Was also a very noticeable runtime issue along with it. Rest were bad USB cord or bad charger. Usually bad contact with the cord because of junk getting in it.

    If it does it unplug it and plug it back in and simply follow the manual for reset and all is fine after that. Quickest and easiest fix

    And seeing as you got it off Amazon, you got old version, not the newer versions I stock. It's a headache, I understand. But loose cells with user changeability means you have to deal with occasional balancing yourself when dealing with higher output lights. Can't have that both ways because the system can't self balance. If you use your own cells you have to balance them before using them.

    Like most things, there is a trade off. Something that's added complexity mean added cost. When these issues started to become known (both the self drain and out of balance) it was immediately passed on. That's why the V2.0 was released. Correcting the bugs that were found in the light or assembly process.

    But try as I advised first. Takes less than 30 seconds. Same as when a cell phone or other USB device starts having charging issues. Dirty cord and/or port causes a lot of issues, sometimes requiring a basic reset.

    Truly the wiz20 may not be the kind of light your after. Something with lower output/single cell system would eliminate the balance issue. Fenix has a light that has replaceable cells but lower output/no USB charging. The design allows the cells to balance each other which limits how many lumens (due to limited current draw of the batteries) because their in parallel instead of in series.

    But the cold temperature issues are ones that can't be avoided. Mr Mole came up with a good solution to help you there.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by RAKC Ind; 02-05-2017 at 09:50 PM.
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  54. #454
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    1,536
    Quote Originally Posted by RAKC Ind View Post
    And chances are it's not the cells. I've had several contact me about the same thing. Only 2 was the cells out of balance. That was the first batch of them almost a year ago, badly out of balance. Was also a very noticeable runtime issue along with it. Rest were bad USB cord or bad charger. Usually bad contact with the cord because of junk getting in it.
    I'm using the brand new cord that came with the light and a Samsung 2amp charger that came with my Samsung phone.

    And seeing as you got it off Amazon, you got old version, not the newer versions I stock.
    I think I received the newer version, as it came with 3400 mah batteries not the 3200 mah batteries



    But try as I advised first. Takes less than 30 seconds.
    I will try the reset procedure if it happens again.

    Same as when a cell phone or other USB device starts having charging issues. Dirty cord and/or port causes a lot of issues, sometimes requiring a basic reset.
    I never have problems with my cell phones or have to ever reset them.

    Truly the wiz20 may not be the kind of light your after.
    Huh? I like the light.

  55. #455
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    Man I want your luck with cell phones lol. We're cussing at one of them at least once a week. (Droid Maxx 2s). Update came through my phone in the last week or so and now SD card won't stay connected.

    Even a new cord you can get dirt in there that messes with contact and causes charging issues.

    As for liking the light, was getting the opposite impression so thought maybe something else might be a better fit as this doesn't seem to be working for what you want.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  56. #456
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    133
    Quote Originally Posted by RAKC Ind View Post
    Man I want your luck with cell phones lol. We're cussing at one of them at least once a week. (Droid Maxx 2s). Update came through my phone in the last week or so and now SD card won't stay connected.

    Even a new cord you can get dirt in there that messes with contact and causes charging issues.

    As for liking the light, was getting the opposite impression so thought maybe something else might be a better fit as this doesn't seem to be working for what you want.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    To go temporarily off topic, you may be able to downgrade your motorola firmware if your comfortable with it.

  57. #457
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    Messing with firmware on anything isn't exactly my thing. Though I can build a computer and run Ubuntu without issue firmware and such on small stuff..

    Plus, phones are critical. Can't afford them to be down if I screw up.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  58. #458
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    499
    Ok fellas, back on topic! (Always wanted to say that). My wiz20 replacement mount has been ordered. Amazon free shipping. It's funny, my 1st gen Wiz20 has not even come close to getting the batteries out of balance, I check em with my opus charger and they are right even, .01v if that. 👍

  59. #459
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    133
    Quote Originally Posted by RAKC Ind View Post
    Messing with firmware on anything isn't exactly my thing. Though I can build a computer and run Ubuntu without issue firmware and such on small stuff..

    Plus, phones are critical. Can't afford them to be down if I screw up.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Yea I run linux also. Good point, just a thought.

  60. #460
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    OK guys wanted to update.

    I can confirm WITHOUT A DOUBT that the final annoyance of the previous versions is fixed. The self discharge issue.

    I had tested a couple from stock but I also received one to fix under warranty that was discharging badly (over 50% in a week). The second one I've fixed and tested myself.

    Swapped the electronics assembly out for spares that came with this shipment. Put in a set of my cells in it that were at 4.13v upon install.

    3 days later:. 4.13v still.

    I did only get a couple spare assemblies in but I will make sure I get more for any others that show the problem on the next shipment.

    For those that are concerned about the "tint lottery" (which isn't as bad as it sounds, just some are more yellow at lower power levels than others):

    Once I get more in, if you have the self discharge issue and want to get it fixed it's not a problem. Swapping the LED PCB is simple so I will simply put the PCB from your original assembly into the light.

    I'll update once I know exactly when more assemblies will be here to fix any others that are still out there.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  61. #461
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    25
    Hi Guys,
    Sorry if I am pulling you off topic but need some advice. I live north of Atl and ride lots of tight twisty single track with some fast downhills. I was thinking about buying a Whiz20 for the bars and a Whiz1 or 2 for the helmet. Good choice? Any advice or suggestions? Heard great things about these lights! And no wires! Thanks!
    Charles

  62. #462
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    Actually not off topic at all.

    For what you ride I wouldn't go with that combo, especially a Wiz1/2 for the helmet. Does that have the beam pattern for that.

    If it was me I would go towards the XP series. Or at least the xp2 as my helmet light (though I ride with the XP3 as my helmet light but that's a personal choice)

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  63. #463
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MRMOLE's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,572
    Quote Originally Posted by Nahooter1 View Post
    Hi Guys,
    Sorry if I am pulling you off topic but need some advice. I live north of Atl and ride lots of tight twisty single track with some fast downhills. I was thinking about buying a Whiz20 for the bars and a Whiz1 or 2 for the helmet. Good choice? Any advice or suggestions? Heard great things about these lights! And no wires! Thanks!
    Charles
    Have to agree with RAKC's advice. I understand the convenience of no wires (self-contained) but for most of us the drawbacks are too much to justify it. For helmet use the weight of a self-contained light is too much to be comfortable for very long which is made even worse by the limited placement options because of the physical size of the all inclusive lights. Can only be mounted high and centered (to allow for proper aiming) which has a lever arm effect making the weight even more noticeable plus makes the light more likely to catch on low branches (ouch) and requires a very tight fitting helmet to keep the setup stable. Can be done but not ideal so XP2 or 3 would be a good call here. Wiz20 a much better fit for your bar light needs but you still have more weight on the bars and lose the wired remote compared to one of the XP lights. Still I have no problem using my Wiz20 as a bar light when mtn-biking it's just that one of the XP's would be better (though less convenient).
    Mole
    Last edited by MRMOLE; 02-26-2017 at 09:15 AM.

  64. #464
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    226
    I have thought about insulating my Wiz2 because most of my night riding is not in high temperatures. It would be nice to be able to access the max internal temp for a ride, and know if I'm insulating too much. So then I could experiment with a little bit of insulation at a really low temp, and be positive that I wasn't going to overheat anything, measure the results, and use that information to take the next step. But probably better to do this with a system that has a separate battery, that's what I'll get next, so I have a backup, and so I have one light that's lighter for the helmet and one that's self contained no wires

  65. #465
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    Unless your riding below 40 deg, insulating is a bad idea as you will overheat the light.

    Wiz2 is not a good light for cold weather night riding for any long periods. Wiz1 is better suited for that.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  66. #466
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    5,551
    @Nahooter1...I have used my Wiz-1 on the helmet and though it works fine it does make the helmet a bit top heavy. Since it also sits higher on the helmet it also raises the center of gravity for your helmet which increases the "swing" or "pendulum" effect. This can cause the helmet to shift on your head when making sharp turns or going over rough terrain. Depends a lot though on how secure your helmet is to your head but regardless some people would not like the feel. I've had some success by placing the mount more toward the rear of the helmet. The Wiz version I have uses a 26650 cell but I can use an 18650 cell if I want to by using an adapter. With 18650 the lamp feels lighter but with the 26650 you get longer run times. Carry extra cells and it doesn't matter, weight is everything.

    The Wiz-1 is great but if you truly want a low profile, light-weight, self-contained lamp a simple, inexpensive 18650 torch can be a great option and won't break the bank. My helmet accommodates a torch very well by just using a Velcro strap. Matter of fact I just ordered another to add to my quiver of small lamps. Saw a good deal on this NW XP-L 18650 torch and decided to pull the trigger. Looks a lot like my two Convoy torches. I already have a Convoy S2 ( Gearbest ) that has a fairly wide beam pattern and warm tint. I'm hoping this BFL-A6 ( with Neutral white tint ) will make a good helmet choice and perhaps have a bit more throw. Yep, this year I plan on putting my power house lights aside ( on occasion ) and try doing my more easier rides with a simple torch set-up.

  67. #467
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    1,536
    Quote Originally Posted by Nahooter1 View Post
    Hi Guys,
    Sorry if I am pulling you off topic but need some advice. I live north of Atl and ride lots of tight twisty single track with some fast downhills. I was thinking about buying a Whiz20 for the bars and a Whiz1 or 2 for the helmet. Good choice? Any advice or suggestions? Heard great things about these lights! And no wires! Thanks!
    Charles
    I would look at the Cat Eye volt 300-800 series for a helmet light. Light Weight (140g or less) and comes with a low profile helmet mount.

    Product categories | CATEYE

    There is also this one from Fenix which is USB recharageable and has a replacement 18650 battery but you have to buy the helmet mount seperate.

    https://www.fenixlighting.com/produc...ix-bike-light/

    https://www.amazon.com/StupidbrightT...t+helmet+mount

  68. #468
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    25
    Great advice guys! I ordered a Wiz20 for the bars! Do you think a Revtronic 1600 would be a good helmet light (light head is only $20)? If not I was thinking about an Ituo XP2. I have about 4 magishine batteries so I need to put them to good use. Thanks again!

    Charles

  69. #469
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    499

    Good job!

    User Review: ITUO Wiz20-image.jpgBLF A6 is nice. I just got the non anodized version for $18 from BANGGOOD,nw of course! Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image.jpg 
Views:	25 
Size:	54.6 KB 
ID:	1123920

  70. #470
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    Bt40s is NOT a helmet light. It's strictly a bar light, has very little throw, very wide beam.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  71. #471
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    25
    Alright guys...I pulled the trigger on an Ituo XP2 for my helmet. Don't tell my wife please. Thanks everyone for all the advice!

  72. #472
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    25
    I do have one additional question. How do you balance the batteries since I am getting the wiz20? Charge them individually? Thanks

  73. #473
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    86
    Need some advice regarding ITUO, and I think the Wiz20 might be the answer. I just ditched my old MagicShine 808 lights. Plenty bright, but anytime I hit the downhills they were like strobe lights, and I constantly had to rotate them back up (I won't be using O-ring mounted lights with small contact patch ever again).

    I need some lights for 50/50 urban rides and trail riding. I do get into some pretty technical singletrack but for the most part nothing with large drops.

    I was originally looking at the Wiz1 and Wiz2 (handlebar / helmet). Now I'm thinking of possibly switching my choice...

    Handlebars:
    Would the Wiz1 be a little rear heavy with the battery to ride rugged stuff?
    How do the Wiz20 handle rugged terrain? Are they more prone to vibration (strobe), or rotating on the bars compared to the XP2, which wouldn't have attached battery weight? Wiz20 seem to handle cold weather well enough and easy to swap batteries if needed. I'm guessing from the positive reviews here that the Wiz20 might work as well as an XP2 for me on the bars...

    Helmet:
    This is where I'm unsure. Wiz2 seems to come in around 150 grams...plus maybe another 40 for a gopro mount. Doesn't seem terrible but when it's elevated off the helmet I'm not so sure. Aside from strapping the light to the helmet directly to lower it (and losing adjustability).
    Would the Wiz2 hold up in the cold (single 18650 cell)? I could try a Wiz1, but the 28650 cell adds another 50 grams.
    Perhaps I'd be much better off balancing the ITUO XP2 on a helmet (83 grams) and run a cord to my Camelbak. The idea of a self contained light with serviceable battery seems REALLY convenient tho (hence the reason I'm looking at the Wiz20 for bars).

  74. #474
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    Wiz20 bars and xp2, helmet seems to be the most popular when going that route.

    The self contained lights handle trails well enough but not bombing rock gardens and jumps etc. Won't put up with that well for long. More rugged riding, external packed lights would do better.

    Xp2 on the helmet is going to do better than the Wiz1/2. Wiz1/2 is meant for bar use. Wiz1 is definitely not good on helmet or rough use on the bars. Tail heavy. Some have gone aluminum handlebar mounts (standard GoPro) to deal with the weight taking a beating.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  75. #475
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    341
    Quote Originally Posted by RAKC Ind View Post
    Wiz20 bars and xp2, helmet seems to be the most popular when going that route.

    The self contained lights handle trails well enough but not bombing rock gardens and jumps etc. Won't put up with that well for long. More rugged riding, external packed lights would do better.

    Xp2 on the helmet is going to do better than the Wiz1/2. Wiz1/2 is meant for bar use. Wiz1 is definitely not good on helmet or rough use on the bars. Tail heavy. Some have gone aluminum handlebar mounts (standard GoPro) to deal with the weight taking a beating.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Is the beam pattern any different from the Wiz20 to the XP2? Do you have any pictures comparing the two?

  76. #476
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    No all of thay is the exact same. Just xp2 has slightly more output and all the mounting options and 4 cell battery pack versus 2 cell internal.

    Beam pattern doesn't really matter anyway, multiple optional optics to change them to whatever you need.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  77. #477
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MRMOLE's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,572
    Don't forget that the differences in bezel design affect the beam pattern some. Overall very similar but longer hood on the top and sides of the Wiz20 bezel cuts down top and side spill some making it a little more road specific than the XP2. Different optics change the beam far more but still noteworthy.
    Mole

  78. #478
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    Oh ya thanks mole completely forgot about that

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  79. #479
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    226
    Quote Originally Posted by RAKC Ind View Post
    Unless your riding below 40 deg, insulating is a bad idea as you will overheat the light.

    Wiz2 is not a good light for cold weather night riding for any long periods. Wiz1 is better suited for that.
    I wouldn't likely mess around at 40 degrees and above. But below 10, the battery life would suffer a lot from temperature. It's probably easier to get remote batteries on a different model.

  80. #480
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    1,536
    So tonight I was on a ride and a small bump caused my Ituo Wiz20 to go flying off the handlebars into the woods. Turns out the clip on the mount that holds the light broke off somehow from the bump. A little disappointed in the mount right now.

    For whatever reason, after I picked the light up out of the snow, it wouldn't turn off. Had to pull the batteries to get it to turn off.

    Lucky I had a helmet light to get me through the night.
    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  81. #481
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    Its never the "small bump" that causes the issue, its impacts prior that the small "bump" that cause the problem, the small bump is just when it finally failed completely. You've been riding a lot (not sure how rough the terrain) and bomb the trails. Seems there may be a limit to the extreme abuse the mounts will take for prolonged periods. Much of the reason why we saw lights with separate battery packs come into the picture. getting the weight off the mounts.

    Was curious how much of a beating the wiz20 will take and your hard riding finally found out how much. Surprising though as mine has been used for 2 winters on my full rigid fat bike without issues. Though I doubt I ride anything nearly as abusive during the winter. I usually keep it rather mellow.
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  82. #482
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    3,337
    Quote Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
    So tonight I was on a ride and a small bump caused my Ituo Wiz20 to go flying off the handlebars into the woods. Turns out the clip on the mount that holds the light broke off somehow from the bump. A little disappointed in the mount right now.
    Is the piece that broke the plastic bit that is held on to the light with 3 screws?
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  83. #483
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    1,536
    Quote Originally Posted by RAKC Ind View Post
    Its never the "small bump" that causes the issue, its impacts prior that the small "bump" that cause the problem, the small bump is just when it finally failed completely. You've been riding a lot (not sure how rough the terrain) and bomb the trails. Seems there may be a limit to the extreme abuse the mounts will take for prolonged periods. Much of the reason why we saw lights with separate battery packs come into the picture. getting the weight off the mounts.

    Was curious how much of a beating the wiz20 will take and your hard riding finally found out how much. Surprising though as mine has been used for 2 winters on my full rigid fat bike without issues. Though I doubt I ride anything nearly as abusive during the winter. I usually keep it rather mellow.
    From the Ituo Website...

    -Design is simple enough for commuting and road riding, but high output and rugged design allow it to endure the extreme abuse of off-road Mountain Biking.

    I was doing nothing extreme. Not bombing the trail or hard riding as you suggest. I was riding a groomed fat bike trail. Riding a groomed fat bike trail on snow is pretty timid compared to "off-road" mountain biking. Now makes me wonder how the mount will hold up when I do my summer riding on rocky rooty trails with small drops here and there. It seems the mount isn't working as advertised on the Ituo website..

    This is only my 6th night ride with the light. I like the light, but am now disappointed with the mount.

    Is there a warranty on the mount? Has the mount been improved at all?
    Last edited by prj71; 03-03-2017 at 08:10 AM.

  84. #484
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    1,536
    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    Is the piece that broke the plastic bit that is held on to the light with 3 screws?
    No. The plastic piece on the mount that holds the light in place after you slide it onto the mount. I couldn't find the part...buried in the snow somewhere.

    Here's what the mount looks like now...



    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  85. #485
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    Yes there is a warranty on the mount.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  86. #486
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    3,337
    Quote Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
    No. The plastic piece on the mount that holds the light in place after you slide it onto the mount. I couldn't find the part...buried in the snow somewhere.
    OK, thanks.

    I've had a few folks ask for GoPro adapters for the Wiz20 and I've been looking for details/dimensions for the mounting area on the light body. Getting my hands on the factory piece that is screwed to the light(even a broken one) would be ideal for designing a GoPro adapter.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  87. #487
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MRMOLE's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,572
    Interesting mount failure. I see no damage to the mount other than the missing latch/lever. Is there any of the little metal retention pin that holds the latch on still there or is it gone also? That's a pretty low stress area so I don't think the terrain you were riding on had anything to do with the failure. Probably a manufacturing defect with too short of a pin or something that allowed the latch to fall off. Good chance the latch is where you last attached the light to the mount. While the Wiz20 is not my first choice for off-road rides mine has still seen quite a few more rides than yours (some rough rocky trails with shallow air) with no mount issues so I wouldn't think there's any reason to not be confident with a replacement mount. Decision is up to you and you always have the option of using one of the "Bulletproof" Vancbiker GoPro mounts which would even allow you to use the Wiz20 as a helmet light if you want to do some weight training on your neck muscles.
    Mole
    Last edited by MRMOLE; 03-03-2017 at 03:48 PM.

  88. #488
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    Looks like the pin came out... Hope this wasn't one that he accidently put the light in backwards so removed the pin to get the light out. Reason is that it's what I tell ppl to do who manage to force the light in backwards on the mount.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  89. #489
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    25
    The XP3 is a fantastic light!
    Last edited by Nahooter1; 03-11-2017 at 04:33 AM.

  90. #490
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    1,536
    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    Interesting mount failure. I see no damage to the mount other than the missing latch/lever. Is there any of the little metal retention pin that holds the latch on still there or is it gone also? That's a pretty low stress area so I don't think the terrain you were riding on had anything to do with the failure. Probably a manufacturing defect with too short of a pin or something that allowed the latch to fall off. Good chance the latch is where you last attached the light to the mount. While the Wiz20 is not my first choice for off-road rides mine has still seen quite a few more rides than yours (some rough rocky trails with shallow air) with no mount issues so I wouldn't think there's any reason to not be confident with a replacement mount. Decision is up to you and you always have the option of using one of the "Bulletproof" Vancbiker GoPro mounts which would even allow you to use the Wiz20 as a helmet light if you want to do some weight training on your neck muscles.
    Mole
    I have no idea about the pin for the latch. I just slide the light on and off and never looked at it that closely.

    All I know is that I hit a small bump on the trail (about a 4" depression in the snow) and the light went flying off the bars after that. I made a warranty claim with Ituo. When I get replacement mount I'm going to use a strong rubber band around the light and mount so it doesn't happen again. Now I don't trust anymore. Ituo should have built a beefier mount in my opinion knowing the weight of the light and where it's going to be used.

    Lucky it was just snow that it fell in. If I was summer riding it might have taken a bounce off a rock or tree and become damaged.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  91. #491
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MRMOLE's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,572
    [QUOTE]
    Quote Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
    I have no idea about the pin for the latch. I just slide the light on and off and never looked at it that closely.
    If the latch lever was ever there you would have heard a click when mounting the light and had to depress the lever to release the light body from the mount. If you don't remember doing this I'd say the lever arm and pin were never there. (See pictures below)

    User Review: ITUO Wiz20-010.jpg
    User Review: ITUO Wiz20-014.jpg

    All I know is that I hit a small bump on the trail (about a 4" depression in the snow) and the light went flying off the bars after that. I made a warranty claim with Ituo. When I get replacement mount I'm going to use a strong rubber band around the light and mount so it doesn't happen again. Now I don't trust anymore. Ituo should have built a beefier mount in my opinion knowing the weight of the light and where it's going to be used.
    IMO mount strength wasn't the issue here since nothing appears broken (just important missing pieces).

    Lucky it was just snow that it fell in. If I was summer riding it might have taken a bounce off a rock or tree and become damaged.
    The only mount issue I ever had was my own fault. I was planning to top off the batteries before a ride so I didn't slide the light into the mount all the way to the point the latch clicked (bad habit I don't do anymore) and forgot about it. It was barely in the mount and fell off onto the pavement about a mile into the ride (no bumps needed). Light was still on when I picked it up off the street with only a couple of scrapes so unless it was a unlucky shot the Wiz20 should handle a mount ejection (not that you want that to happen again) or crash far better than most lights from my experience.
    Mole

  92. #492
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    1,536
    There was a click when I put the light on the mount. The latch lever was there.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
    Last edited by prj71; 03-05-2017 at 06:02 AM.

  93. #493
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    1,536
    I received my replacement mount today. In looking at it, what keeps the pin from falling out of the hole?

    I'm guessing over a few a few rides and bumps the pin worked loose and dropped out the side which is why the latch fell off.

    I think I'm going to drop a little glue on each side to make sure the pin doesn't come out again.



    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  94. #494
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    2

    How did you make the mounting plate?

    Quote Originally Posted by OverTheHill View Post
    My favourite handlebar mount is for the Exposure lights. I've got them on my mountain bike and road bike that I use for night riding.

    So I created a simple plate which bolts to the bottom of the Wiz20 using the existing small bolts after removing the Ituo plate.

    The Exposure wedge just screws to the plate using one screw.
    Hi OverTheHill,

    I recently purchased a ITUO Wiz20 light and really like it but I broke the plastic mounting bracket and saw this post and have purchased the Exposure Lights bracket but now I need to make an aluminum plate like you show here.

    I have a few questions if you don't mind. First, where did you get the small plate and how did you cut it to size and tap the screw holes, both for the 3 screws that come with the light and for the cleat bolt?

    I appreciate your time.

    Thanks,
    Chris

  95. #495
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    2
    Hi OverTheHill,

    I recently purchased a ITUO Wiz20 light and really like it but I broke the plastic mounting bracket and saw this post and have purchased the Exposure Lights bracket but now I need to make an aluminum plate like you show here.

    I have a few questions if you don't mind. First, where did you get the small plate and how did you cut it to size and tap the screw holes, both for the 3 screws that come with the light and for the cleat bolt?

    I appreciate your time.

    Thanks,
    Chris

  96. #496
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    3,337

    GoPro compatibility available for the Wiz20

    Fresh off the CNC...

    User Review: ITUO Wiz20-dscn2459.jpg

    I'll have them available to ship early next week.

    PM or e-mail at the address in my sig line for details.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  97. #497
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    Nice work vanc!

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  98. #498
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    25
    Wow those are beauties!

  99. #499
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    499
    yeah buddy!

  100. #500
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,148
    Here you kids go:

    They are set so it's slightly rear heavy since they are set tilted down a bit it gives good balance so light doesn't tip forward on you.

    Also better for anyone who is determined to use this on the helmet.

    Also DO NOT USE cheap light duty plastic GoPro mounts for these, the weight, especially on trails will break the mount. I'm hoping the little extension will hold up (it came with a Chinese pack of mounts) otherwise I'll get the adapter from bontrager for this stem plate.

    The road bike mount set up is bontrager exclusive, fits their Blendr stems only, all parts are from my Trek shop.

    Mount is great, thanks vanc for getting me one to play with right away!!!

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

Page 5 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. User Review: Nitefighter BT40S ( CAt Review )
    By Cat-man-do in forum Lights and Night Riding
    Replies: 1203
    Last Post: 10 Hours Ago, 09:47 AM
  2. Replies: 69
    Last Post: 4 Weeks Ago, 12:24 PM
  3. ituo wiz 1 & 2 video review
    By spankone in forum Lights and Night Riding
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 11-30-2015, 12:01 AM
  4. ITUO Wiz20 Which Design Do You Prefer (Programmable, USB Rechargeable)
    By ITUO Manufacturer in forum Lights and Night Riding
    Replies: 32
    Last Post: 11-18-2015, 01:49 PM
  5. Replies: 0
    Last Post: 10-30-2014, 12:11 AM

Members who have read this thread: 151

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •