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  1. #301
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    Quote Originally Posted by OverTheHill View Post
    I bought my Wiz20 about a month ago from the sole supplier here in the UK. The cells are the Ituo branded 3200 mAh 18650s and unless they having been sitting around somewhere, I assume are pretty new.

    I have ridden with the light four times only so far. The first couple of rides I didn't monitor the runtime. The third ride last week seemed like the Wiz20 went on to the red after about an hour or so being on high. That was after charging via the USB port. On this week's ride I got a longer runtime and that was after charging the cells using my Turnigy Accucell-6 charger. This was what sparked this series of posts from me.

    All comments taken on board and I will try cleaning the contacts as suggested by Cat-man-do. I have also ordered a new, hopefully fairly decent DMM (uni-t ut61e) so will measure the cells with that when it arrives.

    I also have some KDLight NCR18650GA 3500mAh protected cells on order from KD so it will be interesting to see if I get any more runtime from them when they turn up.
    If the lamp/batteries are new then what I recommended about cleaning the contacts isn't likely going to change anything. Likely the circuit that controls the charging is just under-charging the cells. From what others have said it looks like you "might" have a bad one. Then again, this is USB charging. What is the source that you are using to charge the lamp? Computer USB outlet or USB / AC outlet charger? If you are using a computer USB port for charging it might be possible the port is faulty or just under powered. If you are using an AC line-voltage / USB charger than likely this is not the problem. Then again if you are using an AC charger then perhaps you might try another USB source just to be sure it's not the source.

  2. #302
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    I'm using a 1A mains outlet USB charger which came with my Garmin so hopefully a reasonable quality. I will try another one though in my ever-lengthening list of things to discount!

    Thanks for all the help and suggestions.

  3. #303
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    I put my Wiz20 on to charge via the USB port and after charging for a while the indicator is flashing between red and blue. I don't recall it doing this when on charge previously and there's nothing in the manual which indicates what is happening.

    Anyone else noticed this or can shed some light on the situation?

    I'm using a Garmin 1A mains USB charger by the way not a computer USB port to charge the light.

    EDIT: I left it charging and the blinking red to blue has slowed now. Steady blue but flicking back to red for a short time every few seconds. Maybe this indicates a topping up charge at the end of the charging period?

  4. #304
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    Quote Originally Posted by OverTheHill View Post
    I put my Wiz20 on to charge via the USB port and after charging for a while the indicator is flashing between red and blue. I don't recall it doing this when on charge previously and there's nothing in the manual which indicates what is happening.

    Anyone else noticed this or can shed some light on the situation?

    I'm using a Garmin 1A mains USB charger by the way not a computer USB port to charge the light.

    EDIT: I left it charging and the blinking red to blue has slowed now. Steady blue but flicking back to red for a short time every few seconds. Maybe this indicates a topping up charge at the end of the charging period?
    For the hell of it try charging using one of the USB ports on your computer. Maybe the Garmin charger has a set cutoff designed for the Garmin internal battery. If you have a phone charger try that. The only other option you have at this point is to try to get in touch with ITUO dealer for an exchange or just keep the current lamp and charge the cells in your other charger. My personal opinion, I don't think I would try to return it for another unless you are dealing with a North American dealer. If you have that option I'd try to contact the dealer for an exchange. They should be able to e-mail you a shipping label.

  5. #305
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    My new DMM turned up today and it looks like my old one was under-reading slightly by about 0.06V. I've done various charging tests using different USB chargers and also some Xtar cells that I have.

    I won't bore you with the various results but it looks like the USB charging port is still charging slightly less than directly charging the cells with my Turnigy Accucell-6 charger but not significantly so.

    I don't think I'll return the Wiz20 but I will probably charge the cells externally because it is a bit quicker and it will maximise the run time I get with the light.

    Thanks to everyone for your help and suggestions.

  6. #306
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    Quote Originally Posted by OverTheHill View Post
    I put my Wiz20 on to charge via the USB port and after charging for a while the indicator is flashing between red and blue. I don't recall it doing this when on charge previously and there's nothing in the manual which indicates what is happening.

    Anyone else noticed this or can shed some light on the situation?

    I'm using a Garmin 1A mains USB charger by the way not a computer USB port to charge the light.

    EDIT: I left it charging and the blinking red to blue has slowed now. Steady blue but flicking back to red for a short time every few seconds. Maybe this indicates a topping up charge at the end of the charging period?
    I've seen this twice. One time it was a USB cord that was a little loose in the light's receptacle, switched to the Ituo cord and it went back to continuous charge. The second was caused by an unbalanced set of batteries. The high cell would repeatedly open up on over voltage, then reset for a bit and then open up again.

  7. #307
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    Quote Originally Posted by OverTheHill View Post
    ...but it looks like the USB charging port is still charging slightly less than directly charging the cells with my Turnigy Accucell-6 charger but not significantly so.
    I think Ituo is doing this to maintain a gap between the voltage their charger stops at and where the battery's over voltage protection kicks in. With all the different batteries made they probably just wanted to avoid any compatibility problems.

  8. #308
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    I also don't think it's realized that only specialized smart chargers can truely fully charge a lithium battery. My old RC charger for lipo (supposed to be good for li-ion still as well) batteries charges to about that same voltage as what I'm seeing from a wiz20.

    Can't cram all the electronics needed to monitor the exact voltage of each cell on a LED driver. My guess is that their set to a specific voltage and when that's reached (which during a charge will be reached except once current from charge is removed the voltage settles lower) it cuts off.

    Now if it's intentional we dont know. But makes sense just in case people use unprotected cells or cheap cells. No chance of accidental overcharge.

    Sadly, if you think about it, any company that actually cares about its reputation and such has to account for people that think they know better and are all "it turns on it'll be fine".

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  9. #309
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    Quote Originally Posted by OverTheHill View Post
    I put my Wiz20 on to charge via the USB port and after charging for a while the indicator is flashing between red and blue. I don't recall it doing this when on charge previously and there's nothing in the manual which indicates what is happening.
    This happened to me as well (using a Sony 1.5a smartphone charger). I just kept it plugged in, and eventually it settled on blue.

    Haven't had the problem since, but I'm still considering getting a standalone charger. Anyone got a recommendation? (max $30 including international shipping)

  10. #310
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    Well, MRMOLE broke some sh1t, guess I was due lol. Epic (for me) 2hr ride with the wiz20. Was once again totally impressed with the light thinking if I only had one light the wiz20 would do quite well. Awesome runtime did not change color on button. Got done wth ride, and the light was stuck on the slide, gave it a lil tap, broke the mount. Now no wiz20 til I get another mount ordered. Luckily I brought my xp3 along but was total overkill for the gravel roads I was on. Pissed many a car off high beaming and the like. Guess 2500lm is kinda not cool for gravel grinding.

  11. #311
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirt Road View Post
    Well, MRMOLE broke some sh1t, guess I was due lol. Epic (for me) 2hr ride with the wiz20. Was once again totally impressed with the light thinking if I only had one light the wiz20 would do quite well. Awesome runtime did not change color on button. Got done wth ride, and the light was stuck on the slide, gave it a lil tap, broke the mount. Now no wiz20 til I get another mount ordered. Luckily I brought my xp3 along but was total overkill for the gravel roads I was on. Pissed many a car off high beaming and the like. Guess 2500lm is kinda not cool for gravel grinding.
    Sh.t happens. Luckily your like me and have other lights to fill in while waiting for a replacement mount. Time to spend some time with your BT21.
    Mole

  12. #312
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trailsoup View Post
    Haven't had the problem since, but I'm still considering getting a standalone charger. Anyone got a recommendation? (max $30 including international shipping)
    Mostly for chaging a pair of 18650 cells at a time? Many (me included) are happy with XTAR VP2, dual channel 0.25/0.5/1A charging with voltage display, nice to have when charging cells for storage.

  13. #313
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    Impact test



    User Review: ITUO Wiz20-002.jpg

    Not much damage (just gouge below mode button and at back corner) after knocking light off bars at about 10mph. Was re-aiming light and popped out of QR. Impossible to do unless it's not pushed in all the way so my bad. Super easy to find in the dark set @ 50%. Tough light!
    Mole

  14. #314
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    Ya mine has a few dings. Thing is definately "Us proof" lol

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  15. #315
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    ......Was re-aiming light and popped out of QR. Impossible to do unless it's not pushed in all the way so my bad.
    You ought to send that to me to build a GoPro adapter for it! Then there would be no future worries about whether it was pushed all the into the QR.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  16. #316
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    Suffered a bike inversion incident that gave the light and I a few good scrapes.

    Rubber switch cover was torn off...pieces found, patched up with some silicone, and inserted back under the square plate (Torx T3, BTW). Restored to full working order, but I worry about long-term weather sealing of my patch job.

    Overall great light. Couldn't be happier with it or the customer service I've received.

    User Review: ITUO Wiz20-img_0972.jpg

  17. #317
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    Ouch, hope you came out of that ok!

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  18. #318
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsprag View Post
    Suffered a bike inversion incident
    Like ^

    I need to remember this for the next time the wife says "so you crashed huh?". No honey, just a "a bike inversion incident".
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  19. #319
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    Good idea, sounds like it was intentional and well executed

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  20. #320
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    I have a had a few rides now with two Wiz20's on the bars and an XP3 on the lid and its been pretty awesome. Running everything on medium, any higher and its just too much. The trails are mostly tight and twisty here. You have to be careful not to get too much light reflected back in your face or make a distracting hot spot heading into slow tight turns yet still have enough light for the fast sections. There's not enough time to safely/reliably change levels on a helmet light.

    First bar light has two floods with the beam starting just in front of the bike, the second one has two wide spots and is aimed to blend in where the floods start to fade away. The XP3 on the lid has two wide spots and a spot and is aimed to blend in where the wide spots start to fade away. On flat ground half of its light is shining up in the trees. It's just one big continuous wall of light with a ridiculous amount of run-time. And there's two spare 18650's tucked away in my pocket just in case.

    Having the helmet light aimed that high seems like a waste of lumens at first. Its perfect for downhill to uphill transitions. Ditches and gulleys are lit from start to finish. Leaning into a high speed sweeping turn the light comes out of the trees and lands on the corner exit. Fallen trees and trail debris are easily seen.

    Night riding has come so far, the amount of high quality light we can put on a trail for such a long time from such a small power source is amazing. The old nicad powered MR11 lamps weighed a ton didn't put out much more light than a candle. We crashed a lot. Run-time was horrible, any hiccups on the ride and you were walking the bike out in the dark, often bleeding with a limp. Those rides had a certain magic to them and were a lot more exciting. There's still bits and pieces of those old trails around, and I remember my first night rides lights when I come across them. Comparing then to now its like I'm bringing my own daylight with me.

  21. #321
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    Great post Arc, I do love my WIZ20, for the moment I am using my XP3 on the bar, but I prefer the battery wireless set up of the wiz20, like you I like plenty of light up front, 3800 l from XP2 and 3, nice :-)

  22. #322
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    Nice arc! You run about the same exact way I do. I've been using my xp2 on the bars though (or sometimes an xp3) with xp3 on the lid. Wide spot/flood on bars then same optics in the xp3 on the lid.

    I kick them on high for descents when I'm doing video otherwise they almost never leave medium except low for climbs. I've gotten pretty well versed in switching output on the move. Part of the reason I run xp2 on the bars, remote . It sees high mode more than my helmet light though because when I hit techy stuff I'll kick it up to bring out the shadows really well.

    My last longer ride (one I get pics of in the xp4 thread, friend was taking pics) I had run on 20% on xp4 bar and xp3 lid for the entire fast, wood bermed descent the final time I went down it. After riding it 3 times that night I could hold my speed even at that low of power because muscle memory was pretty much kicking in.

    Being able to custom form beam patterns, neutral white tint so everything isn't washed out/hard on the eyes, and the amount of light in such small packages makes me wonder how people were able to night ride before.

    I had a couple 808 clones when I first tried, did it once and never happened again except for commuting. Found neutral white tint and was a "ah ha" moment.

    With the changes we've seen in the last few years, never know what another 5 years will bring. Maybe they'll make LEDs that are just as bright but require a lot less heat sinking (more efficient) so we can have tiny lights that put out 2000 lumens and guys like Mr Mole that live in "hell" (desert southwest) can run full blast and never worry about over heat. And with that we could see 2 hour run times on a 2 cell pack (maybe even lighter or higher capacity for size/weight).

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  23. #323
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    Don't be looking too far into the future Tigris, Specialized has a bar light with different beam patterns for high and low, and Bontrager has Ant+ controlled lights. Imagine tying both those concepts together and having your Garmin controlling and optimizing your lights for you. Its really not that far away, and we still have to adapt to what's happening now. More efficient and higher CRI leds are here, someone just needs to get that ball rolling and everyone else will follow.

    I just did two rides where I have nothing to improve with my lighting, if I had a wireless remote I wouldn't have touched it. More light would just make my pupils smaller, and then have to readapt once the lights were turned back down. Not once did I move my head for the sake of lighting something up. Any changes for one section of trail would be a bad trade-off somewhere else.

    The ability to change optics is one thing, combining it with three independently aimed and powered lights is huge. You can change the beam so much in seconds just playing with tilt and power levels of both the helmet and bar lights. I always hoped lighting would get this good, now its here with more hours in the batteries than I have in my legs.

    Night riding was different before the HID lights came out. The trails were simpler and the bikes were so much less capable. The tires back then turned anything damp into black ice. Stretching out an evening ride past twilight wasn't that bad. Once the clocks changed and you started out solo in the dark took a bit to get used to. There was a little patch of light in front of you and everything else was pitch black. You could be five feet away from a skunk, raccoon or axe murderer and never know it.

    You'd hear a couple coyotes around and not think much of it, then a train would blow its whistle, The whole pack would start howling and you'd realize you were surrounded. They could see me, I couldn't see them. They didn't give a shit about me and were only looking for rabbits, I just didn't know it. It would spook me for a bit but ten minutes later they were completely forgotten and I was bombing singletrack as fast as I dared with the little bit of light I had. Strangely enough those were some of the best rides of my life but somehow I don't ever want to do that again.

  24. #324
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    Oh trust me led tech is in its infancy. The higher CRI and higher efficiency LEDs are already in use in the Ituo lights. The only increase there is the little gained from going xp-l.

    I should have clarified, affordable range . That tech is expensive (but sadly still put with low cri, cool white LEDs)

    Multi beam high and low has been around a bit, but makes for bigger lights so not as popular except for road use (which they would be great).

    Bluetooth wireless lights are here but insanely expensive because of the programming abilities the driver has to support.

    What I'm talking bout is 2000 lumens out of something almost half the size of the xp2. Some of us here have done it already but only useable in lower ambient temps.

    Think 2000+ lumens out of a light the size of the DUO and takes a lot to over heat it and get 2+ hours run time on a 2 cell pack. That's the future I'm after

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  25. #325
    arc
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    .

    Think 2000+ lumens out of a light the size of the DUO and takes a lot to over heat it and get 2+ hours run time on a 2 cell pack. That's the future I'm after
    https://www.armytek.com/products/fla...te-silver.html

    This little light runs an XHP50 off a single boosted 18650. Rated at 1800 lumens for an hour. Seems it would be pretty close properly optimized with an all aluminum mounting bracket and letting the driver throttle it a bit when it gets hot.

    Picture that XHP50 light you reviewed a while back with a better bin and another year of development. Just need to find a way to get the Budget Light Forum crew on it, its amazing what they can do with something that catches their attention.

    Its time to get out of the xpg/xml rut anyway, I want to see what's next.

    I did another ride last night, all the leaves are on the ground now getting dirty and loosing their reflective shine. A little tweak to my helmet light and things were back to normal. The second Wiz 20 was supposed to be a placeholder to get me more runtime until the XP4 came out. I can't believe the difference it's made.

    Once winter sets in I'll be switching to my snowboard helmet and probably won't miss the helmet light much once the snow gets here. I definitely won't be missing seeing a skunk's butt at 35 feet after rounding a bend on a downhill, and then watching it get bigger as you stop six feet from it. After a bit it turned around sniffing the air and looking me over and then taking its sweet friggen time to walk away. Rabbits are the same deal lately, hard stop to keep from running over them and they just sit there a couple yards away looking at me sniffing the air like they don't know what I am. They just sit there unafraid as something fifty times their size barrels toward them. Not sure if the neutral white light is confusing them like a jack lit deer or not.

  26. #326
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    Quote Originally Posted by arc View Post
    ...This little light runs an XHP50 off a single boosted 18650. Rated at 1800 lumens for an hour. Seems it would be pretty close properly optimized with an all aluminum mounting bracket and letting the driver throttle it a bit when it gets hot.
    I can't believe that light has a decent beam for mt. biking, particularly on the helmet. In playing around with bench testing, I've not seen the XHP50 emitter make a really good beam with less than a 35mm reflector. Too much flood with most smaller optics. LEDDNA 10 degree optic would be OK if one likes a pretty wide beam. Maybe as an emergency backup type light but regular use, no way.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  27. #327
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    Other downside is its a flashlight, so it starts dropping output Ina couple minutes and just slowly drops, no "constant output".

    Would probably make for a decent bar light for short rides though.

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  28. #328
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    That light would be terrible for a bike light, too floody and it would overheat in no time. It was just an example of what XHP's are capable of right now. Set up properly for bike use it seems they would be 15% more efficient than what we have now.

  29. #329
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    Was on the Ituo website and it looks like there's an upgraded version of the Wiz20 now. Higher capacity battery cells for longer run times (this light was already pretty good but "yea" anyway). Full 1500 lumens - did they upgrade emitters or something Tigris? Revised UI?, not sure from description what has changed. Anyway, it sounds like this great light has gotten even better!
    Mole

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    UI is a little different than the original version, seems mainly just faster to cycle to off position but that update could have come clear back in August I don't know. I think the dual UI was done away with as well but I haven't checked.

    As for output, no seems they kicked the driver up just a hair so runtime is only a tad longer but output is right about 1500 on the nose now. If you remember it tested about 100+ lumens too low before.

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    Last edited by tigris99; 11-23-2016 at 03:23 PM.

  31. #331
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post

    As for output, no seems they kicked the driver up just a hair so runtime is only a tad longer but output is right about 1500 on the nose now. If you remember it tested about 100+ lumens too low before.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Did you run the new version through your sphere yet? Just curious, you know how I like numbers.
    Mole

  32. #332
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    Ya that's how I know the numbers are actual 1500. Just a quick test without full calibration was 1486 and I could tell compared to my other lights sphere was reading a bit low

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  33. #333
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    I had my first proper road ride with the Wiz20 the other night and after a while it dawned on me that the neutral white beam looked very yellow against the tarmac. The friend I was riding with had a cool white light and we both agreed the cool white looked better.

    Having recently discovered the benefit of a neutral white tint for colour rendition of foliage off-road, I have to say that I actually preferred the cool white tint for road work. I'm not really sure why that would be but obviously on an open road the eyes rely less on surrounding bushes etc and more on the strip of black tarmac in front of your front wheel. A CW beam appears a bit brighter than NW so this also might have something to do with it.

    Others may have a different opinion and I know this is MTBR but many people here must also use their lights on road, if only to and from the trails. I wondered if anyone else had observed the same?

  34. #334
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    Quote Originally Posted by OverTheHill View Post
    I had my first proper road ride with the Wiz20 the other night and after a while it dawned on me that the neutral white beam looked very yellow against the tarmac. The friend I was riding with had a cool white light and we both agreed the cool white looked better.

    Having recently discovered the benefit of a neutral white tint for colour rendition of foliage off-road, I have to say that I actually preferred the cool white tint for road work. I'm not really sure why that would be but obviously on an open road the eyes rely less on surrounding bushes etc and more on the strip of black tarmac in front of your front wheel. A CW beam appears a bit brighter than NW so this also might have something to do with it.

    Others may have a different opinion and I know this is MTBR but many people here must also use their lights on road, if only to and from the trails. I wondered if anyone else had observed the same?
    I've noticed the same thing even trail riding but only when riding with others with cool white tint lights. So much of the advantage of NW tint for me is the lack of glare and how it effects how much my pupils dilate. CW tint is like second hand smoke in the fact that its negative effects are shared by the user and those around them. My Glowormws are still CW and I use them when I know I will be riding with groups the whole ride. If I'm going to be by myself most of the ride I always ride with my NW lights. So far this system works good for me.
    Mole

  35. #335
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    At the moment I ride (MTB trail riding) with a Yinding (CW) and a Ituo XP3 (NW) and I prefer the tint of the Ituo. But if you like the neutral white tint – great, have fun and enjoy the ride

  36. #336
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    UI is a little different than the original version, seems mainly just faster to cycle to off position but that update could have come clear back in August I don't know. I think the dual UI was done away with as well but I haven't checked.

    As for output, no seems they kicked the driver up just a hair so runtime is only a tad longer but output is right about 1500 on the nose now. If you remember it tested about 100+ lumens too low before.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    It does seem the dual UI is gone. Bummer because I wanted to use just Low/High for my commute, don't need 1500 lumens on the road.

    Still a nice light, I don't have much preference with color temp as it turns out.

  37. #337
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    I ride pavement plenty as well and still hate cool white lights myself. Makes everything look cold and washed out except dry pavement itself. And still gives me a headache.

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  38. #338
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    I've noticed the same thing even trail riding but only when riding with others with cool white tint lights. So much of the advantage of NW tint for me is the lack of glare and how it effects how much my pupils dilate. CW tint is like second hand smoke in the fact that its negative effects are shared by the user and those around them. My Glowormws are still CW and I use them when I know I will be riding with groups the whole ride. If I'm going to be by myself most of the ride I always ride with my NW lights. So far this system works good for me.
    Mole
    I think you may have hit on why I prefer CW on the road - there is very little reflected light off the tarmac surface so the pupils will not dilate as much. The NW light just looks yellow to my eyes and a bit dull truth be told.

    I mostly ride on unlit country roads as well so not usually much at the side of the road either to reflect the light back to the eyes. NW is still the way to go off-road though.

  39. #339
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    It look a bit yellowish to me too, but hard to notice till your around cool white lights. That's part of how the color rendition is better, light emitted covers the spectrum better.

    Like playing with white balance for a camera basically. The more blueish tone the more color is lost. I know there's more to it than that but it's a way to help understand the difference. To me the yellow tone to neutral white is more "natural" looking. Like headlights on most vehicles, standard florescent/ican bulbs and such.

    But even cars that use cool white type lighting hurts my eyes when driving at night. As Mole explained, screws up night vision, but badly for me.

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  40. #340
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    Nothing special about last nights after work ride (23miles of paved/unpaved canal banks + some surface streets) except it's aura! Always a feel good ride with the Wiz20 (this light is a joy to use) but every one I ran across was extra happy and extra nice. All my interaction with automobiles drivers went out of their way to give me the right of way and extra room, the many runners (most wearing headlamps) all thanked me for dimming my light (on-coming) or using my bell when approaching from behind. Must be the Holiday spirit.
    Mole

  41. #341
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    Very nice, I'm moving down there with you lol. Everyone up here is well "not so nice".

    I can't even begin to think about commuting right now. Besides the insane cold (sub zero) people with cars are the exact opposite of your area lol.

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  42. #342
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Very nice, I'm moving down there with you lol. Everyone up here is well "not so nice".

    I can't even begin to think about commuting right now. Besides the insane cold (sub zero) people with cars are the exact opposite of your area lol.

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    Normal traffic situations are usually between what I saw last night and what you described although the pedestrians always love the bell. High here was 77 degrees so ride temps in the 60's. No jacket required but again nicer than normal for this time of year. Off work till Monday so hope to get a good longer ride in tonight before it cools off this weekend (predicted drop of 20 degrees).
    Mole

  43. #343
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    Lol must be rough.... Its just coming back up to where I'll consider taking the fat bike out and supposed to be mid 20s till Sunday. Then severe sub zero for a couple days before returning to high 20s

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  44. #344
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    Got my longer ride in tonight (57 mi./Beargrease) but took the XP2 instead of the Wiz20. Good reminder how much the hooded bezel on the Wiz20 cuts down the top spill. XP2 shines up more into any surrounding trees but is far less road/pedestrian friendly than the Wiz20. Lite sprinkle at the end of the ride so I'm glad I got some good miles in cause I might be stuck inside tomorrow.
    Mole

  45. #345
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    57 miles on a fat bike, damn! Nice ride lol

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  46. #346
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    57 miles on a fat bike, damn! Nice ride lol

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    Old man/57 fat-bike miles = sore legs/happy mind!

  47. #347
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    I feel you there. Here's what I was doing today:



    No where near your miles and this is after I had the panniers on and went to the store to grab the wife some baking supplies. Bags of flour, Sugar and such added on to a fat bike in the snow and having to climb the hill back to the house.... That and then towing the boy around for about 30-45 minutes my legs are burning lol.

    Wiz20 is definately get a good cold weather test as well as the new Bolt Taillight.

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  48. #348
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    Looks like our beloved wiz20 is being knocked off..... Vollsion BH21R. Lol love the audacity of the Chinese light scene!

  49. #349
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    Thanks Dirt, it's been passed on so that won't be an issue for long.

    How did you manage to find that?

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  50. #350
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    I think they cloned the wiz 1 also:

    _MG_6905 - VOLLSION GEAR

  51. #351
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    Ya I saw that. Gotta love them, those pictures aren't even cloned pictures. They are the Ituo pictures with new text (including branding) photo shopped in.

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    I thought the motion blur driver pic looked familiar.

  53. #353
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    Hi all. I just got 2 wiz20 and fully charged them. So far super impressed with them. I have an xp3 and xp4 coming today and am rather excited to try them out. I have never used a helmet light before so that is going to be nice to try. Huge thanks to tigris for all the work hes done on these ituo threads. I never would have found them if not for him and would have ended up with overpriced garbage.
    Cheers all

  54. #354
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    New member of the Wiz20 bike inversion club. Broke the mount into a half dozen pieces after hitting some black ice on my commute. Light has quite a few marks on it but still seems to work after going down, will toss a back-up light in the commuter bag in case I'm wrong for the next few rides.

  55. #355
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    Nice.

    A lot of us have abused ours pretty badly and they have been solid. Be curious to see what it takes to finally kill one.

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  56. #356
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    Considering mine hit the pavement with only scratches to show for it I'm fairly impressed. Thanks for shipping the replacement mount so fast yesterday, assuming that you handle that.

  57. #357
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    Yeap, sure do.

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  58. #358
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    Great thread, loving the light. I am having one issue however. Is it normal for the cells to lose their charge if stored in the light? I charge via USB, so no reason to remove the cells otherwise. I don't know how long it's taking to discharge, but seems like they are dead after a couple weeks unused.

  59. #359
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    Not normal, it's a glitch that happens sometimes when it's stored fully charged.

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  60. #360
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Not normal, it's a glitch that happens sometimes when it's stored fully charged.

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    Thanks. Do they all have this glitch or should I swap it out? Only had it for a couple months.

  61. #361
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    It's hit or miss. Only a problem if stored at full capacity from what I understand.

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  62. #362
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    Update with that seeing as I did pass it on when the first one (of I think 4 or 5 occurances Im aware of now) appeared. Seems it was limited to the first run of the V2.0s. And now way of knowing which if any will or wont. I will double check the new shipment as its supposed to fixed now so NONE do it, but Ill test myself and update to be sure.

  63. #363
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Update with that seeing as I did pass it on when the first one (of I think 4 or 5 occurances Im aware of now) appeared. Seems it was limited to the first run of the V2.0s. And now way of knowing which if any will or wont. I will double check the new shipment as its supposed to fixed now so NONE do it, but Ill test myself and update to be sure.
    Thanks for the help Tig.

  64. #364
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    day 1 update:

    new unit nothing noticed

    my personal v2.0 nothing noticed either.

    One thing I do remember if the glitch happens after charging turn the light on then back off via the switch.

    Stay tuned, only a day so far since charged and cells drop a little bit on their own from the voltage they are at right after completing a charge cycle.

  65. #365
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    So to be clear, after I am done charging, cycle the light on and off? I did that already yesterday (to make sure it wasn't dead yet), so that is an easy enough fix.

    I wonder if simply taking the battery cover loose and then reattaching would also reset? You might not get the voltage drop in your experiment because it has reset the issue?

    I can check the voltage over the next few days if that would help?

  66. #366
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    Is there a way to make this light a whiter color? I'm not sure I like the neutral white (looks more yellowy to me) color.

  67. #367
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    No it's not something that can be changed. The color of the light is how neutral white looks to some. See a yellowish tinge on some surfaces. Actually a pretty good match to standard vehicle headlights

    But that's how you keep from loosing all the details and seeing color in things. Not for everyone as some people still prefer cool white. But it's very few so the wiz20 isn't offered in cool white.

    Thank You

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  68. #368
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Actually a pretty good match to standard vehicle headlights
    Actually a lot of the newer vehicles on the road today don't have that yellowish tint anymore. It's more of the 5000k bright white.

  69. #369
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    Really??? Must live in a more affluent area. Because here it's rare to see anything not running halogen bulbs (I'm and ASE tech). Or your not in the US.

    But the LEDs used in these lights are 5000k. The auto headlights that are supposed to be 5000k LED systems look like they have a blue "tint". Almost cool white.

    I hate them because their just as blind and useless as cooler white LEDs because they still wash out all the details and colors.

    Even then, each person's eyes will perceive the LED tint differently. I only notice any yellow on a white or light colored surface. Cool/true white low CRI stuff I can use on anything but pavement and not during the winter time myself. Already cold, don't need a light that makes it look worse



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  70. #370
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    OK day 2 update:

    I can track down to a 0.01V change. 2 days and 0 loss since initial settling of cells after charging.

    So all good the newest ones are nothing outside of normal self discharge.

    My personal one is fine as well so far (first run V2.0). Never noticed an issue before and nothing now outside of normal. But we know it's hit and miss as to which ones glitch.

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  71. #371
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    Quote Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
    Actually a lot of the newer vehicles on the road today don't have that yellowish tint anymore. It's more of the 5000k bright white.
    Hey

    Being that discussion I decided to take a look as I have more than 1 wiz20. One happens to have the stock 10deg optics, other has wide spots and third is mix wide and flood.

    I have a truly white area in my shop (set up for taking photos) and I decided to shine each one on it.

    First the one with stock optics looked REALLY yellow but batteries are almost dead. Swapped out and still fairly yellow on a white surface.

    Mine that I use for road has the dual wide spots. Those look insanely "true white" and the one with one flood optic is almost as "true white" but since there is no series hot spot on the flood optic it's hard too tell.

    Problem isn't the light, just that the narrow spot optics bring out the yellow more than the wide spot. Though the wide spot has the same size hot spot it's a really smooth transition making it look wider.

    If you want to try a set of wide spot optics LMK.

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  72. #372
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    I will try that. Thanks

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  73. #373
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    Quote Originally Posted by tadmcmichael View Post
    Great thread, loving the light. I am having one issue however. Is it normal for the cells to lose their charge if stored in the light? I charge via USB, so no reason to remove the cells otherwise. I don't know how long it's taking to discharge, but seems like they are dead after a couple weeks unused.
    I have the same issue - and I think that tigris99 is wrong - my Itou light (V2.0) drains out batteries (Panasonic 3400mAh) up to 80% within one month while not used. I'm sorry - it is out of all standards...

  74. #374
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    First version 2.0s are the ones have the issue and not all of them, at least not yet that's been reported.

    They wont last a year and hold a charge (no light out there will unless they have a switch that separates the battery from the system completely) but the lastest batch of wiz20s it has been fixed. Been testing it for a week now with almost no losses from the battery.

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  75. #375
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    Finally had a chance to try a night ride with this light. Not sure I Iike the neutral yellowish color of the light. Helmet light is a Cateye Volt and it's more of a brighter white which I prefer.

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  76. #376
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    mixing tones isnt a great idea, your eyes cant adapt to one tone. Found that one out myself lol, lots of guys here say the same. Takes getting used to if your used to cool white like most other brands only have. Hard to "give it some more rides" when there's a tint mix going on, I understand that. Mr. Mole and Cat-man have both been down that road, hopefully theyll chime in.

    Neutral white isnt for everyone YET lol. Still "new"

  77. #377
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post

    If you want to try a set of wide spot optics LMK.

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    I do. Where do I get them?

  78. #378
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    www.ituolights.com unless you want to wait to get a bag of them from China.

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  79. #379
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    Quote Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
    I do. Where do I get them?
    Wide spot's a good optic for this light. I've tried different combinations of all the Ituo optics + Gloworm's too and ended up with the wide spots as my favorite. Got mine when I ordered my light from US Ituo distributor. Also mixing NW and CW lights doesn't work very well. Ruins advantages of NW tint. CW's harsher light makes your pupils constrict more and limits your vision IMO.
    Mole

  80. #380
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    I ordered the wide spot optics this morning. See if it's any better after I install them.

  81. #381
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    Make sure you order 2 of them as you'll want them both

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  82. #382
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Make sure you order 2 of them as you'll want them both

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    I see that I only ordered quantity one. Grrrr...

    I assumed when I picked wide spot pattern that I would receive two because my light has two optics.

    As cheap as those optics are and with at least a 200% mark up on the light, all optics options should be thrown in for free with every light purchased in my opinion.

  83. #383
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    Omg, 200% mark up, I wish....No one in the bike industry gets that. We're not talking Walmart crap or cheap Chinese junk here. (Big brands like Shimano and SRAM get that for parts sold full retail price at best) At best only the manufacture directly gets 100% mark up. Too much competition in bike lights to get half that at the retail level though.

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    Last edited by tigris99; 01-17-2017 at 03:32 PM.

  84. #384
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    But small brands are the ones that do the inovations that the big companies watch then copy in their own versions. See that happen ALL the time. Look at all the DIY stuff from before the Nightrider luminas (and all the similar style lights by various brands) came to pass.

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    Last edited by tigris99; 01-17-2017 at 03:33 PM.

  85. #385
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    ....... if people would stop thinking every product gets Walmart level pricing.
    It's really interesting how different hobby activities seem to draw different levels of concern about pricing. I've found that the cycling community has the highest number of "cost conscious" buyers. I constantly get inquiries asking if I'll drop my adapter price 10-30% if the order is for 2 or 3 parts.

    Motorcycle guys ,Hot rods, cars and ORV/ATV guys are better yet. These groups usually are not asking for discounts or griping too much about the price of a custom part.

    Boat guys are the best! I've actually begun to think that they get together with their boating buddies and brag about how much they paid for some cool custom part they got. I've actually been asked several times "is that all?" when quoting parts.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  86. #386
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    I think my wiz20 was a good solid purchase. I buy my bikes when they are 35% off. Or better yet, used, at a much bigger savings. But for $100 bucks with batteries, the wiz20 qualifies as a bargain. Not a huge bargain, but priced very fairly. Now my Vanc mount, I feel it would be insulting to ask for a discount. I was going to ask for some free powdercoating! Joking👍

  87. #387
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    What is the run time for each brightness level on this light?

  88. #388
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    2 hrs on high, can break it down from there (all details are in the manual I believe). 4 on high, 10 on low iirc

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  89. #389
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    2 hrs on high, can break it down from there (all details are in the manual I believe). 4 on high, 10 on low iirc

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    I'm looking for run time at each 10% increment.

  90. #390
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    No one has that, simple math (just time consuming) can sort it out. 2hrs on high which is 100%. At 50% the runtime doubles

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  91. #391
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    No one has that, simple math (just time consuming) can sort it out. 2hrs on high which is 100%. At 50% the runtime doubles

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    Was wondering how you were going to answer that question. The only time I can remember seeing information that detailed was @ the Action-LED-Lights web site for Gemini lights a few years ago. Pretty sure they just used calculations to figure out the times and noticed they only list the presets now. Assuming that the 10% adjustable steps are measured from current draw calculating runtimes should be pretty accurate anyway.
    Mole

  92. #392
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    No one has that, simple math (just time consuming) can sort it out. 2hrs on high which is 100%. At 50% the runtime doubles

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    Unless your running the lights in winter then those run times are decreased by 30-40 minutes.

    The "2 hours on high" you stated above is tested around 70-80 degrees I assume?

    A lot of my winter rides at night sometimes last 2 hours or longer. In temps of 15-30 degrees battery life is diminished and I'm sure the high setting would only last 1:30 or less in those temps.

    What I'm trying to figure out, is what is the highest brightness increment I can set it at to get about 2:30 for winter riding.

  93. #393
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    I get over 2hrs no problem and I fat bike in temps colder than that. I've left mine on high the entire time for over an hour and light didn't even change red. Light generatws plenty of heat on high mode to keep the batteries from getting cold till it drops below about 20F.

    Results vary on the rider. The faster you go the more the head is going to cool, the colder the batteries are going to get.

    Best bet is to carry a spare set of cells in an inside pocket till you figure it out because that's an answer only you can come up with unless you play cautious and run at 50%

    Another thing is make sure the light is kept warm when not in use and do not charge it when it's cold.

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  94. #394
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    I get over 2hrs no problem and I fat bike in temps colder than that.
    At what brightness level?

  95. #395
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    I don't use one brightness level. Turn it down to low (set at 20%) when I stop or slow, longer climbing.

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  96. #396
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    I rarely stop or slow. Guess I'll have to experiment to find the answer

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  97. #397
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    You go for 2.5hrs on a fat bike in the cold at high speeds and no stopping?

    I'd love to know where there is flat enough ground for that and not covered in a bunch of snow. Hate long climbs on the fat bike

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  98. #398
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    Sometimes yes. I'm in WI so it's not flat trails. I enjoy climbs on my fat bike.

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  99. #399
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    [QUOTE]
    Quote Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
    Sometimes yes. I'm in WI so it's not flat trails. I enjoy climbs on my fat bike.

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    Getting an extra set of batteries makes the most sense IMO. Riding your fat-bike should be all about having fun, running your light at what ever level makes you the happiest and not having to worry about your light lasting for the whole ride.
    Mole

  100. #400
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    I am having fun. Just wondering what the brightest setting is that will last about 2:30 without having to carry any extra batteries with me. Is it 50%, 60%, 70%...?

    Like I said, I'll experiment and find out.

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