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  1. #201
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    The optics that Ituo uses do NOT fit the glowworm lights. If you try to fully tighten the face plate down you'll break the poly-carbonate lens over the optics. If not then the face plate won't seal and water will get in. These optics are too tall. Been there tried that one already.

    The gloworm flood optics in the xs actually do something useful since the spot is already quite large, the spill becomes more useable.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

  2. #202
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    Bezel's & beampatterns

    Along with my Wiz20 I also have a new XP2 Ituo lamp to play with. Noticed the XP2 had more power which I expected but curiously no matter what optics were used the XP2 would have a noticeably wider beam pattern. Emitter spacing is the same on both lights, known difference in power output but that shouldn't change the beam pattern. Only thing I can see is the bezel design. The Wiz20 has more of a hood which is to be expected on a commuter light but as it tapers to a similar bezel thickness @ the bottom it provides much more side optic coverage which is what I think is causing the narrower beam compared to the XP2.

    User Review: ITUO Wiz20-001.jpg

    User Review: ITUO Wiz20-006.jpg

    Interesting. Light heads are different but looks like bezels may be interchangeable, will check when I get a chance.
    Mole
    Last edited by MRMOLE; 07-23-2016 at 08:40 AM.

  3. #203
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    Well you have 2 different optics going on too

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  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Well you have 2 different optics going on too

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Thanks, new about the optics. Pics. to show bezel design only. Was using the XP2 on my helmet last night and too lazy to change back to the wide spot for these pics.
    Mole

  5. #205
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    I figured, was just picking on you about it lol.

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  6. #206
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    Confirms my thoughts of the wiz20 being a good helmet light! In beam pattern, not size...
    Nice find mole, be cool if they were interchangeable, maybe Ituo would sell me an xp2 bezel!!

  7. #207
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    It's not going to effect overall throw, it only brings in the spill a bit. I was just playing with it and the spill is a bit narrower and obviously controls the spill for road use but the xp2 still wins slightly on throw because of the added lumens. Slight difference but shining each light up the hill a block up, I see little difference in how bright the light is at longer ranges but xp2 still wins just slightly. Wiz20 the spill around the hot spot is a bit brighter/narrower so for short/mid range the wiz20 bezel helps a bit. May be interesting swapping around to see what happens with the higher lumens and set up for throw.

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  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirt Road View Post
    Confirms my thoughts of the wiz20 being a good helmet light! In beam pattern, not size...
    Nice find mole, be cool if they were interchangeable, maybe Ituo would sell me an xp2 bezel!!
    Bezels are interchangeable between the lights. Not sure it's of much use for anyone, especially if you can't buy the replacement bezels but I found it interesting.
    Mole

  9. #209
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    Wonder how the flat xp2 bezel would effect floodiness on the wiz20. Might open it up a bit. I have to try the flood optics. I got some coming with my xp3 order.

  10. #210
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    With both lights being the same prior to bezel, the beam will be the same on either on (bezel pending of course). The wiz20 on stock optics isn't flood at all, the extra outside of the hot spot is what we refer to as spill. Flood optics (very different from the wide spot optics) don't have a hot spot, just an even spread of light.

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  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirt Road View Post
    Wonder how the flat xp2 bezel would effect floodiness on the wiz20. Might open it up a bit. I have to try the flood optics. I got some coming with my xp3 order.
    I'll try to get out and test the XP bezel on the Wiz20 next week. Expect as Tigris said that it will be similar to XP2 in beam pattern. Sure makes the light look different so I'll include a pic. too.
    Mole

  12. #212
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    I got a ride in with the XP2 bezel on my Wiz20 last night (Hot, 100-105). Definitely widens the beam a bit plus increased top spill increasing low branch recognition. Usable option for mountainbiking but less friendly to oncoming bike path traffic which is mostly what I use this light for so stock bezel best for me.
    Mole

    User Review: ITUO Wiz20-001.jpg

  13. #213
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    Now to convince Keith at Ituo USA to stock xp2 bezels....lol. Looks good MRMOLE

  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirt Road View Post
    Now to convince Keith at Ituo USA to stock xp2 bezels....lol. Looks good MRMOLE
    Interesting for me to play with because I had both lights. Not sure it would be a cost effective or popular option considering the intended use of the Wiz20.
    Mole

  15. #215
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    I know the XP2/3 are getting more attention now, but I wanted to thank all of you - especially tigris99 & Skyraider59 - for helping me find the Wiz20. I used to ride regularly, but inattentive driving (largely due to cell phone use) has made road riding a little scarier than I like. I picked up an L&M Vis 360+ with an REI gift card, and will have a Wiz20 up front for some additional daylight punch with one of its flash modes. I also ordered a second mount to make it easy to change over to my old Stumpjumper, which I should probably be riding more anyway.

    Question: Does anyone have some data on Wiz20 battery endurance while using the flash modes?

    I like taking longer daylight road rides, and I'd like to be able to get 6 hours of useful flash mode out of the Wiz20 to match up with 6 hours from the Vis 360+ on Medium output. If the Wiz will need more power, I know I can carry a second set of batteries. Just curious if that would be needed.

    As a reminder, Skyraider59's excellent review is available here:

    User Review 2: ITUO Wiz20 bike light

  16. #216
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    Ive never ran it till dead on flash mode but if your using just the flash (not the 50% solid with hi flash) you'll get more than 6hrs run time between charges no problem.

    And the xp series.may be getting a lot of attention but this light is still probably the most awesome self contained light just because it's basically the perfect all around light (available right now). I still use mine constantly and will be getting full time use again once winter hits.

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  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Ive never ran it till dead on flash mode but if your using just the flash (not the 50% solid with hi flash) you'll get more than 6hrs run time between charges no problem.

    And the xp series.may be getting a lot of attention but this light is still probably the most awesome self contained light just because it's basically the perfect all around light (available right now). I still use mine constantly and will be getting full time use again once winter hits.
    Good to hear. If I start night riding, I may buy another pair of batteries, but I doubt that'll happen. Btw, a neoprene can koozie might fit well on the Wiz for keeping the batteries happy during winter riding.

    Those XPs are impressive. The XP3 may yield even better results once some optic fiddling is done. I see that Ituo's tail light page is tantalizingly blank, but I'll bet that won't last long. Thanks again for taking the time to dig into the Wiz20.

  18. #218
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    Actually the wiz20 in high keeps itself warm enough, I rode with mine a lot this last winter and just leave it on high mode. Generates enough heat to keep the cells from getting too cold.

    We did tell Ituo about the need for the ability to fit easily accessable optics, I think they'll probably change the factory issue optics in time once we all give another feedback. Problem arises that 10 ppl want 10 different beam patterns. So for now they offer a range of optics to purchase separately. Let all of us here come up with a concensus as to the starting point.

    Hope you enjoy that wiz20 as much as us light addicts do

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  19. #219
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    Had to get this update in here now that I have a full on road bike.

    Commuted to work yesterday not caring much about a 60% chance of rain. They never mentioned what we were going to get right around the time I would be getting off work.

    Thankfully the worst (massive flash flooding, 3rd **** having trouble getting to work) of it was over but still a raining pretty good when I left. And light was on the bike outside through the storm too.

    NO ISSUES, light survived what we consider a "Midwest monsoon", multiple inches of rain in a VERY short time. And no issues on the ride home in the rain.

    Definitely a solid and reliable light, I have officially put this light through everything except throwing it in a pool and it hasnt been bothered by it one bit.

    Now I know I have nothing to fear if my lights get caught in the worst Midwest weather has to offer. More than I can say for my bikes or me lol.

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  20. #220
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    Well, I have put it through pool test, kind of...

    I own Wiz20 mostly thanks to this thread + it really ticked all the right boxes for me. And kudos to BrightBikeLights UK, there was no problem posting a package to across EU.


    I've had the light just few weeks by now and it gets few more weeks to get to night riding on normal hours, but I really wanted something fresh on my bars for a night stage of a adventure race series we have around here. Well, the light excelled of course. And it was really handy as a search light while on running stages through forest and bogs (as a headlamp I use Zebralight with wide beam + extra difuser, sometimes wishing for that extra throw).

    I really did not plan to go swimming with all my gear, 2 lights and spare batteries, but organizers had some other plans - https://youtu.be/x-APL7db71s?t=51s . Right after start I found my self running through waves to get first controls, Wiz20 on side pocket of my running pack. It was submerged for about 5 minutes in sea water. Well, Baltic Sea / Gulf of Riga is not that salty and you can almost drink the water, but still.. Anyway, no sign of leakage on Wiz20, lasted nicely through the event and I have not yet spotted any corroded bits. Still feel bit bad I hadn't checked and lubricated seals my self before this event, also missed to give a good rinse after all this was over :/ . Spare batteries and other bits I always carry in waterproof bags.
    For off the bars use I have only one complaint - it's bit too easy to switch it on. I'd rather not transport it in gear bag / box with batteries installed and when I grabbed the light from pack pocket or put it away, I really had to pay attention to handling and to keep my fingers away from button. Bit tricky with wet gloves.

    I do feel sorry for all those lights that went straight to the Light Heaven on first five minutes of that race...

  21. #221
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    Quote Originally Posted by margusl View Post
    Well, I have put it through pool test, kind of...

    I own Wiz20 mostly thanks to this thread + it really ticked all the right boxes for me. And kudos to BrightBikeLights UK, there was no problem posting a package to across EU.


    I've had the light just few weeks by now and it gets few more weeks to get to night riding on normal hours, but I really wanted something fresh on my bars for a night stage of a adventure race series we have around here. Well, the light excelled of course. And it was really handy as a search light while on running stages through forest and bogs (as a headlamp I use Zebralight with wide beam + extra difuser, sometimes wishing for that extra throw).

    I really did not plan to go swimming with all my gear, 2 lights and spare batteries, but organizers had some other plans - https://youtu.be/x-APL7db71s?t=51s . Right after start I found my self running through waves to get first controls, Wiz20 on side pocket of my running pack. It was submerged for about 5 minutes in sea water. Well, Baltic Sea / Gulf of Riga is not that salty and you can almost drink the water, but still.. Anyway, no sign of leakage on Wiz20, lasted nicely through the event and I have not yet spotted any corroded bits. Still feel bit bad I hadn't checked and lubricated seals my self before this event, also missed to give a good rinse after all this was over :/ . Spare batteries and other bits I always carry in waterproof bags.
    For off the bars use I have only one complaint - it's bit too easy to switch it on. I'd rather not transport it in gear bag / box with batteries installed and when I grabbed the light from pack pocket or put it away, I really had to pay attention to handling and to keep my fingers away from button. Bit tricky with wet gloves.

    I do feel sorry for all those lights that went straight to the Light Heaven on first five minutes of that race...
    I'll bet Ituo would like to use your review.

    You might try putting a piece of insulating film or tape over a battery contact to prevent it from turning on. Mine was shipped that way. You could leave some excess material as a tail to make it easier to grasp while in a hurry.

  22. #222
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    OK for the first time ever, I decided to do something rather stupid all things considered.

    Had to drop my van off at friends shop so he could repair the transmission and I could put struts and my hitch on it this weekend. Being I get off work at 1130pm I was kind of on my own to get home. Not a big deal normally especially with having the road bike now. But.....



    Now the bottom left is Camanche Iowa, where the shop is. Upper right is Fulton Illinois. About 9 miles in between. Camanche is tiny and about a mile in between Camanche and the bigger town, Clinton is pure open ground on a bike path. Storm is moving south east and that is the radar from when I got into my garage. Wasn't really as bad as it looks but it was raining plenty hard enough lol.

    So I got the bright idea to put the wiz20 to the test, a Midwest thunderstorm. Did have to stop at the truck stop that's right when I entered Clinton to check my shorts as had 2 rather close lightening strikes while I was on open ground, nothing taller than me and had to cross an open bridge over a railroad yard.

    Did get video bit I didn't get the battery in right at first. Didn't realize it till I got to the truck stop. So the most entertaining part of the ride (light show) I'm not sure if I got any of. Especially my bellow with the second strike about .5 miles out in front of me. Scared the **** outta me cause was no where to go.

    When I get a chance I'll get the video put together and loaded.

    Wiz20 survived better than me that's for sure. Felt bad for my brand new bike, it's sitting in front of a fan in the garage now to dry off quickly.

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  23. #223
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    Great thread guys. Really like the idea of a self contained light for trail riding. This one seems to check all of the boxes.

    As an FYI, I asked Keith about changing the optics to the 25 degree when I ordered last night. He indicated that the light now comes with one narrow and one flood lense out of the box. Should be good to go as is.

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    Anyone know the max current I can use to charge the cells that come with this? My ipad charger is rated 5.1v/2.3a (so 8.4v/1.4a when converted). Is that to much?

  25. #225
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    Check the manual, I think it's 2A.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Trailsoup View Post
    Anyone know the max current I can use to charge the cells that come with this? My ipad charger is rated 5.1v/2.3a (so 8.4v/1.4a when converted). Is that to much?
    I use an Anker charger with similar specs with no problems.
    Last edited by flat; 09-21-2016 at 11:27 PM. Reason: For correctedness

  27. #227
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    No it will draw whatever it can get, it's a pretty basic charging system just steps up final voltage. That's why it has a minimum requirement and I believe a max posted for safety of the cells.

    That said, should be fine, I never thought to test the charger output.

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  28. #228
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    Ah, ok. Thanks for the clarification.

  29. #229
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    BTW i just looked at my highest output charger, 2.1A. Usually what i use to charge mine, no issues. I figure the "formula" above is about right. and cells can charge at 0.5C safetly (0.5 x capacity) so cells can charge at 1.6A each. As said, bumping up the voltage decreases the current which after charger loss should be around 1.1-1.2A

  30. #230
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    BTW i just looked at my highest output charger, 2.1A. Usually what i use to charge mine, no issues. I figure the "formula" above is about right. and cells can charge at 0.5C safetly (0.5 x capacity) so cells can charge at 1.6A each. As said, bumping up the voltage decreases the current which after charger loss should be around 1.1-1.2A
    Went out last night with the Wiz20 not expecting much, put it on my bar with Gemini Xera on my head. I was very impressed with the way it worked, not having to mess with external battery and cables was freaking awesome!! Light was on high for 1 hour 40 minutes, after the ride took a dog out for another 20 minutes on high light never needed more battery power. Took my dog up too this pitch dark soccer field, this light definitely has true 1500 lumens, good spread and great throw. Amazon has it Prime for 99.95. I also have the Gloworm XS but find may self not using it because it doesn't have a button control on the head of unit, big drawback in my book!!

  31. #231
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    I just bought one of these and rode it for the first time recently. The ride was a mixture of on-road for 6 miles each way to and from the trails and around an hour off-road, so a good test of both its functions.

    With the standard 10 degree optics which provide a bright central spot and decent throw, I think it was most suitable on-road. That's not to say it wasn't good off-road but I would have preferred a wider, more even spread to the beam. Consequently I have ordered some of the LEDDNA optics to see what affect they might have on the beam spread.

    All-in-all though it is a brilliant light and having the cells enclosed with USB charging is so convenient. I really liked the 3-mode and 2-mode interface as well which is so useful and allows you to set whatever levels you want to ride with. If the new optics work out then I will probably order a second light for use on the road and keep the wider optics in for off-road.

    I's say the quality of build is right up there with the best as well but at the price Ituo are asking it's the no-brainer deal of the year!

  32. #232
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    The latest versions at the US location website have the wider beam set up your looking for. It's just an optics change if you bought the right ones from LEDDNA (and they send them to you, place has a problem sending small orders, their in China). If not the US location (www.ituolights.com) has the correct optics.

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  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    The latest versions at the US location website have the wider beam set up your looking for. It's just an optics change if you bought the right ones from LEDDNA (and they send them to you, place has a problem sending small orders, their in China). If not the US location (www.ituolights.com) has the correct optics.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    The problem is I'm in the UK and there is only one supplier here and the lights only come with the 10 degree optics with no option to change or get the wider optics from them. I have ordered optics from LEDDNA in the past but from their eBay store which no longer exists (in the UK) unfortunately.

    They accepted my order a few days ago from their website for a variety of optics and they have sent a couple of emails confirming the order so fingers crossed they turn up!

    EDIT: I just checked out their UK eBay shop and they are back! That's weird because I definitely checked last week and the store was bare.

  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by OverTheHill View Post
    With the standard 10 degree optics which provide a bright central spot and decent throw, I think it was most suitable on-road. That's not to say it wasn't good off-road but I would have preferred a wider, more even spread to the beam. Consequently I have ordered some of the LEDDNA optics to see what affect they might have on the beam spread.
    Definitely agree about the standard 10's being a little too narrow of a beam. It's a good optic for helmet use but this is a bar light and I've been happiest with the "wide spot" optic sold on the US website. It's beam is a good deal wider with very little loss in throw + smoother beam (no hot spot). Look forward to hearing what you end up using.
    I've had mine a few months now, wish I was this happy with everything I bought.
    Mole

  35. #235
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    Left after dark on last nights ride so used the Wiz20 the whole time. Was so nice out I didn't want to stop and ended up getting home @ midnight (55mi. on my fatbike). Used 50% for all but a couple of sections, battery light didn't turn red till I opened my front door (4+ hours ride time). Love the run-time on this light! Unlike most self-contained lights it has enough power you don't have to run it on high all the time + a very efficient driver and premium high capacity batteries makes for a pretty useful light.
    Mole

  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    premium high capacity batteries makes for a pretty useful light. Mole
    Mole. What batteries(seller) are you using?

    TIA

  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by patski View Post
    Mole. What batteries(seller) are you using?

    TIA
    They're just the protected 3200ma Panasonic batteries that come in all the Ituo lights. Ituo website sells them separately too.
    Mole

  38. #238
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    Here's a good video of a wiz20 finally. Actually get nice 1080 video now and no stabilizer turned on but still came out nice except for the bad bumps.

    https://youtu.be/q5G0YKyHuMs


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    Nicely done, but next time, please take a longer bridge.

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    Ya I didn't feel like sitting and cutting through the video to get rid of the boring parts. I just cut the end off as not to world wide broadcast the exact route to my house

    Go to go out with the wiz1 tonight (off work). was going to do it last night till a freak intense thunderstorm started dropping small tornados at 11pm, right as I was changing my clothes to go out. What we call "bow echoes". Not enough to do much besides take out weak limbs on trees and have those cause damage. We get them a few times a year, just not in October, but we also get some pretty nasty stuff in spring and early summer.

    Had to hurry and throw bike in the garage and get wife and boy to basement. Freaked me out cause my phone just started going nuts with the emergency broadcast tone. I don't remember a time the sirens have gone off here this late in the year. Was warmish and humid before, now I go outside and I'm flipping cold...

    Did put the yi in its housing and mounted on my front porch railing to record the light show. Haven't looked at the video yet but was nice to sit inside and watch the storm via the wireless connection to the camera.

    Not sure if I'll take the same camera or try out my new rider-m gimbal and hero 5 I'm picking up tonight.

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  41. #241
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    Interesting. Do you have some camera review threads? If they're anything like your light reviews, I'd like them.

  42. #242
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    I did a couple on the gitup cameras last year that was it. I dont know that much about them so it's meh. But I wanted a pair of good cameras, tired of fighting with cheap stuff (like why I don't mess with cheap lights much anymore).

    I'll probably throw a thread up on the YI 4k and hero 5 since they are about to be put through about everything over the next couple weeks.

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    Good to hear. Sites like DPReview give a pretty good tech breakdown on gear, but with an action cam, I like hearing from end users about actual experience with it in the real world.

  44. #244
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    Dashcamtalk. All about dash and action cameras.

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    Cool. Thanks.

    I'd like a GoPro, but I have a hard time dumping that much money into one. I know that the more affordable competition is coming on strong.

  46. #246
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    There's only one camera that can touch them and it isn't cheap either. The YI 4K

    Well for night riding anyway. Git1 decent at night but 1080p is max and no stabilization, git2 is poor at night but stabilization works well and more options. Good camera for the price and what ive used mostly till now. But bang for buck is YI 4K. Only the newest sony and hero5 are better.
    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by tigris99; 10-07-2016 at 06:45 PM.

  47. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    There's only one camera that can touch them and it isn't cheap either. The YI 4K

    Well for night riding anyway. Git1 decent at night but 1080p is max and no stabilization, git2 is poor at night but stabilization works well and more options. Good camera for the price and what ive used mostly till now. But bang for buck is YI 4K. Only the newest sony and hero5 are better.
    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Went out last night and this happened!! Low-speed fall, got back up and Wiz 20 was on the ground. I guess it's better to have the mount and clip break than the light itself.

    I think I need the new Wiz xp4!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails User Review: ITUO Wiz20-p1070560.jpg  


  48. #248
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    That's more than a simple low speed fall. That thing took a serious direct hit from something. I've been riding mine for over a year with a couple crashes on my fat bike and zero issues.

    BTW ituo has full replacement parts available.

    Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

  49. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    That's more than a simple low speed fall. That thing took a serious direct hit from something. I've been riding mine for over a year with a couple crashes on my fat bike and zero issues.

    BTW ituo has full replacement parts available.

    Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
    Probably going about 12 miles an hour, cut my steering way to hard avoiding a rolling log. Bike and me fell on the ground, light did not hit anything but dirt!! I'll probably go with a Hope mount!!

  50. #250
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    Hope your ok. 12mph isn't slow at all when it's tight lol.

    Issue with another mount is none fit this light besides the wiz20 mount itself.

    And hitting dirt is about as bad as hitting rock . Hence why I was concerned about you as well. I've crashed at that speed and it still hurts sometimes.

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    A crafty fella might be able to screw an alternate mount system to the Wiz20. I was happy to see that the light side of the mount was easily replaced instead of integral to the case.

    As was said, replacement parts are available. I'd contact him to make sure the entire mount is included.

  52. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Hope your ok. 12mph isn't slow at all when it's tight lol.

    Issue with another mount is none fit this light besides the wiz20 mount itself.

    And hitting dirt is about as bad as hitting rock . Hence why I was concerned about you as well. I've crashed at that speed and it still hurts sometimes.

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    Yea Thanks!! I'm ok, my riding buddies were like are you alright!! I was just worried about the light and getting run over by the rest of the group. Monday night ride big about 10-12 guys in the valley here in DE.

  53. #253
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    Quote Originally Posted by flat View Post
    A crafty fella might be able to screw an alternate mount system to the Wiz20.
    Pretty sure it could easily be converted to GoPro mounting. Just need someone to get me accurate measurements of the area where the factory mount attaches to design an adapter to fit.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  54. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    Pretty sure it could easily be converted to GoPro mounting. Just need someone to get me accurate measurements of the area where the factory mount attaches to design an adapter to fit.
    Enter a crafty fella ...

  55. #255
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    Vanc, I double check but iirc it's nothing more than a 3 screw (extended) version of what you already make.

    Going that route is going to require aluminum gopro mount for the bars too FYI. Plastic won't hold it when it gets rough.

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  56. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    .......Going that route is going to require aluminum gopro mount for the bars too FYI. Plastic won't hold it when it gets rough.
    Got that covered too......

    New GoPro mounts

    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  57. #257
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    Btw vanc, got a cool toy now, a mini mill that uses a Dremel, mini x-y table and 3" rotary table. Working on a new mounting plate for my gimbal for the new Hero 5. Though cuts are smaller, it's so much faster having it vs the other bs.

    Go some stuff planned now that I am seeing what I and this thing can do

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  58. #258
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    My favourite handlebar mount is for the Exposure lights. I've got them on my mountain bike and road bike that I use for night riding.

    User Review: ITUO Wiz20-img_00000410.jpg

    So I created a simple plate which bolts to the bottom of the Wiz20 using the existing small bolts after removing the Ituo plate.

    User Review: ITUO Wiz20-img_00000412.jpg

    The Exposure wedge just screws to the plate using one screw.

    User Review: ITUO Wiz20-img_00000411.jpg

    They allow me to quickly switch from one bike to another without having to undo and do up the Ituo mounting bracket each time and the light is always set at the perfect angle. The light is very rigidly held as well.

    User Review: ITUO Wiz20-img_00000409.jpg

  59. #259
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    Nice! That DIY experience comes in handy.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  60. #260
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    Very nice!

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  61. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    Nice! That DIY experience comes in handy.
    Thanks Vancbiker, but in some ways it's a shame that the lights from the Far East are getting so good and inexpensive that it's not worth building our own now!

    I don't think that I could buy the parts and build something like the Wiz20 for what it costs. These lights that Ituo are building now are something else in terms of quality and value for money. Not only that they seem to be actually listening to customers and building in functionality and features that we want.

    I just swapped out the standard 10 degree optics for 25 degree ones and a preliminary ride on the road tonight was very favourable. A more even beam without the central hot spot made it much more usable for me. If the rain holds off tomorrow I might get an off-road ride in as well.

    I like the GoPro mounts you are machining as well. Keep up the good work.

  62. #262
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Very nice!

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Thanks. I appreciate all the sterling work you are doing in testing these lights and posting your results. I'm also envious of your test singletrack!

  63. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by OverTheHill View Post

    I just swapped out the standard 10 degree optics for 25 degree ones and a preliminary ride on the road tonight was very favourable. A more even beam without the central hot spot made it much more usable for me. If the rain holds off tomorrow I might get an off-road ride in as well.
    Ituo Wiz20 + 25 degree optics = The 25 degree optic has worked the best for the mostly bike path but some road/off-road riding I do with this light. Looking forward to your off-road evaluatioin.
    Mole

  64. #264
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    I have several trails within an hour of me, only 3 allow night riding. My latest videos are my favorite trails these days. Lots of fast flow, but a long climb up first to earn it. But enough tech if I want to play around too.

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  65. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by OverTheHill View Post
    Thanks Vancbiker, but in some ways it's a shame that the lights from the Far East are getting so good and inexpensive that it's not worth building our own now!

    I don't think that I could buy the parts and build something like the Wiz20 for what it costs. These lights that Ituo are building now are something else in terms of quality and value for money. Not only that they seem to be actually listening to customers and building in functionality and features that we want.
    Yep. I can build a brighter, lighter, better heat management, and probably more reliable light than these, but parts alone will be about $65-$75 not counting batteries and then the time and labor! I still do it because I can, not because it makes economic sense.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

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    Don't know if this was talked about on the thread earlier but it's on sale Amazon, see link for 79.95 and free shipping.

    That's just bare bones cheap for a good light like this.

    https://www.amazon.com/Manufacturer-...&keywords=ituo

  67. #267
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    79.95 DOESNT include batteries. 99.95 is the price with batteries.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mb323323 View Post
    Don't know if this was talked about on the thread earlier but it's on sale Amazon, see link for 79.95 and free shipping.

    That's just bare bones cheap for a good light like this.

    https://www.amazon.com/Manufacturer-...&keywords=ituo
    Same price as the Ituo website. Personally I would buy direct from Ituo. No reason for Amazon to get 40% - 50% of the revenue.

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  70. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    Ituo Wiz20 + 25 degree optics = The 25 degree optic has worked the best for the mostly bike path but some road/off-road riding I do with this light. Looking forward to your off-road evaluatioin.
    Mole
    I just got back from my ride tonight and I have to say the Wiz20 was fantastic. The 25 degree optics made a world of difference for me giving just the right spread of light with no real hotspot and enough throw for the type of riding I do (fast, rolling singletrack). I had it coupled with the BT21 on the helmet and both lights set one off the highest setting were more than enough and complemented each other perfectly.

    The ride to and from the trails is about six miles on country roads and the Wiz20 was also perfect there as well at MTB speeds on the 800 lumen setting. Even the 400 lumen setting was more than enough really and I didn't bother with the headlight either.

    It will be interesting to go out with that combo on my road bike where the overall speeds tend to be higher and see what sort of level I would be happy with. I'm going to order a Wiz20 for my daughter as well to use as a commuting light on our mostly unlit country roads. The integrated package and USB charging make it so convenient for her and she will get longer runtimes on the lower settings as well.

    I also ordered one of the Yinding lights today from GB and a battery pack from KD but their both just spares really. I'm more than happy with the Wiz20/BT21 combo and couldn't imagine needing much more than this (until the next big thing comes along of course!)

  71. #271
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    Next BIG thing....Ituo XP4? It's new and big lol.

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  72. #272
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    Quote Originally Posted by OverTheHill View Post
    I just got back from my ride tonight and I have to say the Wiz20 was fantastic. The 25 degree optics made a world of difference for me giving just the right spread of light with no real hotspot and enough throw for the type of riding I do (fast, rolling singletrack). I had it coupled with the BT21 on the helmet and both lights set one off the highest setting were more than enough and complemented each other perfectly.

    The ride to and from the trails is about six miles on country roads and the Wiz20 was also perfect there as well at MTB speeds on the 800 lumen setting. Even the 400 lumen setting was more than enough really and I didn't bother with the headlight either.

    It will be interesting to go out with that combo on my road bike where the overall speeds tend to be higher and see what sort of level I would be happy with. I'm going to order a Wiz20 for my daughter as well to use as a commuting light on our mostly unlit country roads. The integrated package and USB charging make it so convenient for her and she will get longer runtimes on the lower settings as well.

    I also ordered one of the Yinding lights today from GB and a battery pack from KD but their both just spares really. I'm more than happy with the Wiz20/BT21 combo and couldn't imagine needing much more than this (until the next big thing comes along of course!)
    Thanks for the update/review. Curious if your running stock optics in your BT21 (if you ever try the 25's in your BT21 I know of at least one other person who would be interested in how they work in that light). Also if your looking for more throw for your road bike the Gloworm XS spot optics have given the best center-beam lux #'s of the optics I've tested. They have about as much advantage over the 10's as the 10's have over the 25's to give you a point of reference if you went that route. That way you can decide if it was worth spending the extra money on GW optics (@$7.50 per optic a lot pricier than others).
    Mole

  73. #273
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    Thanks for the update/review. Curious if your running stock optics in your BT21 (if you ever try the 25's in your BT21 I know of at least one other person who would be interested in how they work in that light). Also if your looking for more throw for your road bike the Gloworm XS spot optics have given the best center-beam lux #'s of the optics I've tested. They have about as much advantage over the 10's as the 10's have over the 25's to give you a point of reference if you went that route. That way you can decide if it was worth spending the extra money on GW optics (@$7.50 per optic a lot pricier than others).
    Mole
    Stock 15 degree optics in the BT21 and last night was the first time I have used this light because my daughter was using for commuting duties. As I said before it seemed to compliment the Wiz20 with 25 degree optics very well so I have put some 15 degree optics in the Wiz20 to see what effect that has. I will probably do a short road test ride tonight to see how that goes and report back.

    Incidentally, where do you get the Gloworm optics from? I looked on their website and couldn't see any optics for sale.

  74. #274
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    Quote Originally Posted by OverTheHill View Post
    Stock 15 degree optics in the BT21 and last night was the first time I have used this light because my daughter was using for commuting duties. As I said before it seemed to compliment the Wiz20 with 25 degree optics very well so I have put some 15 degree optics in the Wiz20 to see what effect that has. I will probably do a short road test ride tonight to see how that goes and report back.

    Incidentally, where do you get the Gloworm optics from? I looked on their website and couldn't see any optics for sale.
    Gloworm XS/X2 Spot Optic – Action-LED-Lights

    There's a link to Action-LED-Lights. I have these optics and am still sticking with the 25's for my Wiz20. Ituo optics are pretty efficient and only small but noticeable gains (in throw) result in the GW swap. BT21 on the other hand I wouldn't hesitate to upgrade to these optics. Lots of information posted in the BT21 thread but to put is short: Bounce test = 15%+ lux increase, Center-beam = 50% lux increase.
    Mole

  75. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    Gloworm XS/X2 Spot Optic – Action-LED-Lights

    There's a link to Action-LED-Lights. I have these optics and am still sticking with the 25's for my Wiz20. Ituo optics are pretty efficient and only small but noticeable gains (in throw) result in the GW swap. BT21 on the other hand I wouldn't hesitate to upgrade to these optics. Lots of information posted in the BT21 thread but to put is short: Bounce test = 15%+ lux increase, Center-beam = 50% lux increase.
    Mole
    I've just been out for a short road ride and I think we have a winner!

    I put the 15 degree LEDDNA optics in the Wiz20 and that gave a nice patch of light with a bit more throw than the 25 degree optics and not too much spill.

    I also tried the 10 degree LEDDNA optics in the BT21 (without the holders) and that gave a significant amount of extra throw even just on the second highest level. The LEDDNA optics don't fit properly so I just put them in without the O-rings but they still worked fine.

    I've found a supplier in the UK for the Gloworm spot optics at 5 a throw (roughly $6). Before I commit to buying are they just a better fit Mole like the originals with the O-rings?

  76. #276
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    Quote Originally Posted by OverTheHill View Post
    I've just been out for a short road ride and I think we have a winner!

    I put the 15 degree LEDDNA optics in the Wiz20 and that gave a nice patch of light with a bit more throw than the 25 degree optics and not too much spill.

    I also tried the 10 degree LEDDNA optics in the BT21 (without the holders) and that gave a significant amount of extra throw even just on the second highest level. The LEDDNA optics don't fit properly so I just put them in without the O-rings but they still worked fine.

    I've found a supplier in the UK for the Gloworm spot optics at 5 a throw (roughly $6). Before I commit to buying are they just a better fit Mole like the originals with the O-rings?
    Gloworms fit about the same as the Leddna's, need to remove the o-ring. Leddna's also work better with the white holder (see pic. of modified holder) and very little to be gained over thi set-up by using the GW optics. Question for you, do the leddna 15's you used have the white holder or are they stand-a-lone? Anyway nice going, sounds like you improved both your lights and didn't have to spend any money.
    Mole

    User Review: ITUO Wiz20-003.jpg

  77. #277
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    Gloworms fit about the same as the Leddna's, need to remove the o-ring. Leddna's also work better with the white holder (see pic. of modified holder) and very little to be gained over thi set-up by using the GW optics. Question for you, do the leddna 15's you used have the white holder or are they stand-a-lone? Anyway nice going, sounds like you improved both your lights and didn't have to spend any money.
    Mole

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I have leddna 10s, 15s, 25s, 30s and 60s all with the white holders that I originally bought to try in the Wiz20 and are obviously a straight swap with the holder.

    Thanks for the picture of the holder mod for the BT21. I'm presuming that you have to remove the two white rings in the BT21 as well to get the modified optics to fit over the LEDs as well?

  78. #278
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    Just remove the white holders all together, as I found out, in modded form they aren't of much use anyway. More of a hassle than the few lumens gained by trying to keep part of them.

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  79. #279
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Just remove the white holders all together, as I found out, in modded form they aren't of much use anyway. More of a hassle than the few lumens gained by trying to keep part of them.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    I did that with the trial fitting earlier and they were a bit loose in the faceplate but seemed to work nevertheless. However, I have just modified the holders and they fit quite snugly now so I'll see how they go. The throw looks good in the back garden!

    Thanks for your help and suggestions guys.

    Just waiting for the Yinding to turn up now and start modding that LOL!

  80. #280
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    I had my usual Thursday night MTB ride tonight using the Wiz20 on the bars with the 15 degree optics fitted. This gave a really nice, even patch of light, probably not as wide as the 25 degree optics but still very good. I think I'll stick with this configuration as I want to use the Wiz20 on the road as well so want more throw and less spill there and don't want to keep swapping the optics over obviously.

    One issue I do have though and would like some feedback from other users. Our ride to the trails is about 6 miles and I had the light on at 450 lumens for about 30 minutes. Then at the trails I pushed it up to 1500 lumens for the off-road stuff and rode for about an hour or so before the red light came on which was just before we were heading home anyway.

    I dropped the level down to 750 lumens for the 30 minute ride home with the light on red. It seems to me that no-way was I going to get anywhere near 2 hours let alone 2:10 with this light on 1500 lumens the whole time. The light was fully charged before the ride as well.

    Also, what happens when the batteries start to get low? Does the light level just start to fade or does the Wiz20 step down to a lower level?

  81. #281
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    It'll get the run time but it sits in the red for a while. The red light comes on then the light will simply just start slowly dimming until it totally depletes the cells.

    That's just the way lithium ion cells and these lights are. The red light is a warning that the light is going to start diminishing output and to head back. No lights out there will maintain their maximum output for the entire run time. ANSI rates runtime from lumens at 30 seconds till it diminishes to 10% of those lumens

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  82. #282
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    [QUOTE]
    Quote Originally Posted by OverTheHill View Post
    I had my usual Thursday night MTB ride tonight using the Wiz20 on the bars with the 15 degree optics fitted. This gave a really nice, even patch of light, probably not as wide as the 25 degree optics but still very good. I think I'll stick with this configuration as I want to use the Wiz20 on the road as well so want more throw and less spill there and don't want to keep swapping the optics over obviously.

    One issue I do have though and would like some feedback from other users. Our ride to the trails is about 6 miles and I had the light on at 450 lumens for about 30 minutes. Then at the trails I pushed it up to 1500 lumens for the off
    User Review: ITUO Wiz20-ituo-wiz20-led-bike-light-lumen-output-graph_1024x1024.png

    Here's a chart Tigris posted. Looks like the light continues to dim but provides a lot of margin for error before your left with an unsafe amount of light. I've never done a run-time test and only seen it turn red once after more than 4 hours (I don't use high a lot). If it is a problem I would just program high for 90% to extend your range.
    Mole

  83. #283
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    [quote=mrmole;12882992]

    Click image for larger version. 

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    here's a chart tigris posted. Looks like the light continues to dim but provides a lot of margin for error before your left with an unsafe amount of light. I've never done a run-time test and only seen it turn red once after more than 4 hours (i don't use high a lot). If it is a problem i would just program high for 90% to extend your range.
    Mole
    Thanks for posting that mole, I hadn't seen that before and thanks to tigris for producing it. There's two things that spring to mind about it - the chart relates to NCR18650GA 3500 mAh cells whereas I am using the standard 3200 mAh cells that the Wiz20 came with.

    Also, at 2 hours the light output (in the chart) has dropped to 900 lumens. So it shows that Ituo's claim of 2h10m runtime @ 1500 lumens is optimistic (at best). But hey, we're used to manufacturers being economical with the truth aren't we?

    Thanks for the 90% suggestion as well. I was only running it at 100% last night to get a feel for the max runtime I could expect. I had found previously that 1200 lumens is a good light level for my riding and the difference in visibility in stepping up to the max is marginal.

    Still an impressive light.

  84. #284
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    It's actually how the ANSI rating system is done. It's not 1500 lumens, it's run time at max output. So turn the light to high mode and run it. It's a bit confusing for those not used to it. But look up ANSI FL-1. It'll give you a full understanding of how that system works.

    Also I have runtime graphs posted for a lot of lights (look at xp2 and xp3 threads). Even high end brands don't maintain full output for full run time. Some like the Gemini Olympia can't even make it the 2hours they claim.

    And the cells I used only add a few minutes to the end of the run is all.

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  85. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    It's actually how the ANSI rating system is done. It's not 1500 lumens, it's run time at max output. So turn the light to high mode and run it. It's a bit confusing for those not used to it. But look up ANSI FL-1. It'll give you a full understanding of how that system works.

    Also I have runtime graphs posted for a lot of lights (look at xp2 and xp3 threads). Even high end brands don't maintain full output for full run time. Some like the Gemini Olympia can't even make it the 2hours they claim.

    And the cells I used only add a few minutes to the end of the run is all.

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    Thanks for the clarification tigris. It's still a bit of a fudge though for the average consumer, even relatively savvy ones like us. People see claims like "High 1500 lumens (2:10 hrs)" in the Ituo manual and think that's what to expect, not unreasonably I might add.

    One thing that did occur to me though is the use of protected versus unprotected cells in lights like these. If you use protected cells then you can theoretically run the light until a protection circuit on one of the cells cuts out and the light stops.

    Ituo recommends only using protected cells for obvious reasons but I'm sure there will be people using unprotected cells at some time. That's fine if you understand their use and consequences of running them too low. I guess that's all part and parcel of understanding what is happening with the light and knowing how long you can run it at certain levels to stop that happening.

  86. #286
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    Ya that's just how all led lighting systems are rated by every company out there that I know of. But that's why graphs are done, to show actual performance. Kind of my thing

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  87. #287
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    Further to my previous post about run times for the Wiz20 I was a little concerned after my ride last week that the Wiz20 seemed to drop to red after only about an hour on high. This was after charging the cells fully via the USB port. This week I charged the cells directly using my Turnigy Accucell-6 hobby charger and the Wiz20 stayed at blue on high throughout the ride for over 90 minutes.

    I thought I would do a little experiment charging the cells using the USB connection and then seeing how they came out. Fresh off the Garmin 1A walwart charger they were reading 4.06V and 4.07V which is a little lower than expected. This is for the original Ituo 3200mAh cells which came with the light.

    I then put them on my charging cradle for my Turnigy Accucell-6 charger and charged them in parallel at 2A. The voltage reading on the Accucell was 4.2V immediately and so the charge went into the CV phase with the charging current at 1A. They charged for another 30 mins and came off the charger both at 4.16V.

    I guess the USB charger in the Wiz20 is for awaydays when I can't get to the Accucell to charge the cells fully.

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    Interesting, I have charged mine with inboard usb, and can not say that I notice much difference to the time I have used stand alone charger, but will have to experiment and monitor

  89. #289
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    There could be problem with charging the batteries in the light if they are not perfectly balanced since they are charging in series. The one with the higher voltage can trip the overvoltage monitor in the cell's protection module before the lower voltage cell gets a decent charge. Its also possible the batteries are draining a bit in the light.

    It seems like your voltmeter could be off a bit. Maybe try some new batteries in it or try a different meter to confirm your measurements.

  90. #290
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    I have noticed with mine it depends on the charger. Not all USB chargers are created equal.

    I'll check mine and see where things are at. Since I have 2 (one original version and one new version but same driver in both) I'll try 2 different chargers and see where I end up.

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  91. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by arc View Post
    There could be problem with charging the batteries in the light if they are not perfectly balanced since they are charging in series. The one with the higher voltage can trip the overvoltage monitor in the cell's protection module before the lower voltage cell gets a decent charge. Its also possible the batteries are draining a bit in the light.

    It seems like your voltmeter could be off a bit. Maybe try some new batteries in it or try a different meter to confirm your measurements.
    I thought about your first point and logically it makes no sense to me. The Wiz20 is a self-contained light with two separate protected 18650 cells. If one or other of the protection circuits was cutting out early then the same thing would happen on the Turnigy Accucell-6 charger, which obviously isn't happening.

    I also came to the same thought as your second point about the cells draining in the light so I've charged them up and have left them in the light unused for a few days and will test them in due course.

    I'm not sure what your basis for questioning the DMM is but I do have a better one on order so will repeat the test when that comes just to see what the result is. If there was a problem with the DMM then it should give inconsistent readings in both instances which it does not.

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    Actually the first point is totally valid. The wiz20 does NOT charge the cells individually. Just like an 8.4v battery pack. Not a single difference.

    If cells are not perfectly balanced the protection circuit on the cell that have the higher voltage will trigger as it hits its max voltage. Since the other cell has lower voltage, it's cut off doesn't engage and would still take a charge.

    Your separate charger charges cells individually at 4.2V. So their starting voltage doesn't matter. It's like having an seperate charge for each cell.

    So what was said is actually dead nuts on. HOWEVER chances are that the difference your reading isnt near enough to matter that much. At least shouldn't be.

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  93. #293
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Actually the first point is totally valid. The wiz20 does NOT charge the cells individually. Just like an 8.4v battery pack. Not a single difference.

    If cells are not perfectly balanced the protection circuit on the cell that have the higher voltage will trigger as it hits its max voltage. Since the other cell has lower voltage, it's cut off doesn't engage and would still take a charge.

    Your separate charger charges cells individually at 4.2V. So their starting voltage doesn't matter. It's like having an seperate charge for each cell.

    So what was said is actually dead nuts on. HOWEVER chances are that the difference your reading isnt near enough to matter that much. At least shouldn't be.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Sorry but that still doesn't make sense to me. I can accept that the Wiz20 is charging both cells in series just like an 8.4V battery pack but if one cell was to trigger its protection circuit at a lower voltage it would happen again when charging them separately or in parallel.

    The cells came out of the Wiz20 after charging via the USB at 4.06V and 4.07V. If either cell had tripped its protection circuit then surely it would trip again around that voltage on the Turnigy Accucell-6 charger? I could have charged them there separately or together in parallel, it makes no difference. I can accept what you are saying if one cell came off the Turnigy at 4.06V and the other at 4.16V but on that charger they both went to 4.16V.

    What it does indicate to me is that the USB charging circuitry in the Wiz20 cut off at around 4.06V but the Turnigy Accucell-6 went the full distance to 4.16V.

  94. #294
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    OTH

    No it will not do it being charged in parallel. Charging in parallel (and leaving them attached in parallel) takes advantage of a very nice detail on lithium cells.

    Self balancing. 2 or 20 cells attached in parallel. Doesn't matter, the high voltage cells will charge the low voltage cells so all cells in the parallel group finish at an exactly matching voltage.

    That's the biggest detail your missing. I balance my loose cells this way all the time. It's how its done.

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  95. #295
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    I hear what you are saying tigriss99 but my point is the protection circuit is a complate red herring in this case. It's the charging circuits in both cases which are taking each cell to a pre-determined voltage and then completing the cell charging with a falling current until the cells are adjudged to be full. This is usually when the charging current falls to around 3 or 4% of the capacity of the cell if memory serves.

    This is the reason for the discrepancy when charging using the Wiz20's USB port as opposed to the Turnigy Accucell-6. Both cells are coming off each charger at a consistent voltage, it's just that it is lower via the Wiz20's USB charging port which indicates to me that it is not charging as fully.

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    I'll run tests accross different chargers to see if it's truely the light is charging a few percent lower than max or not. See where I end up.

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  97. #297
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    Quote Originally Posted by OverTheHill View Post
    I thought about your first point and logically it makes no sense to me. The Wiz20 is a self-contained light with two separate protected 18650 cells. If one or other of the protection circuits was cutting out early then the same thing would happen on the Turnigy Accucell-6 charger, which obviously isn't happening.

    I also came to the same thought as your second point about the cells draining in the light so I've charged them up and have left them in the light unused for a few days and will test them in due course.

    I'm not sure what your basis for questioning the DMM is but I do have a better one on order so will repeat the test when that comes just to see what the result is. If there was a problem with the DMM then it should give inconsistent readings in both instances which it does not.
    I measured 4.2 volts per cell on balanced batteries when charged in my Wiz20, just like your Accucell charger reported when you used it to top off the charge. After the charging finished your voltmeter said less than 4.2 volts. To me it seems your chargers are properly charging the batteries or you wouldn't be getting the runtime you had on your last ride. The only odd thing is the voltages your meter is showing.

    I had an unbalanced set of Ituo cells. The runtime on that set of cells was poor. The low cell came out of the Wiz after charging below 4 volts and the high cell was at 4.25 volts. This seems perfectly safe to me. Since the charger in the light stops at 4.2 volts the cell will not go into protection in normal charging circumstances.

  98. #298
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    Ok just checked both of mine:

    I charged them then they sat for a few hours as I was busy. 4.16v matched on one and 4.15v matched on the other.

    And totally normal for cells to be a bit lower than max after sitting for a fair bit.

    Not finding anything here with either one of mine.

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    OTH, If you can, try taking a pencil eraser and buff all of the electrical contacts on your Wiz 20. Then do the same with the cells. This will remove oxidation that might interfere with the batteries getting a full charge ( when in the lamp ). Sometimes just doing this can make a 0.05 to 0.1 volt difference in series voltage drop of the charging circuit. BTW, what batteries are you running in the Wiz20?...are they old? Well...if you get them to charge higher in your other charger then I agree that the Wiz20 charging circuit ( on yours ) might not be charging the batteries to full.

    About the issue of leaving the batteries in the Wiz20 ( when in storage ) and the potential for losing voltage: Yes, there is the possibility of a slight parasitic drain but unless you are not using the lamp for a prolong time I doubt it would be a major issue if you are using the lamp a couple times a week and charging the cells on a weekly basis.

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    I bought my Wiz20 about a month ago from the sole supplier here in the UK. The cells are the Ituo branded 3200 mAh 18650s and unless they having been sitting around somewhere, I assume are pretty new.

    I have ridden with the light four times only so far. The first couple of rides I didn't monitor the runtime. The third ride last week seemed like the Wiz20 went on to the red after about an hour or so being on high. That was after charging via the USB port. On this week's ride I got a longer runtime and that was after charging the cells using my Turnigy Accucell-6 charger. This was what sparked this series of posts from me.

    All comments taken on board and I will try cleaning the contacts as suggested by Cat-man-do. I have also ordered a new, hopefully fairly decent DMM (uni-t ut61e) so will measure the cells with that when it arrives.

    I also have some KDLight NCR18650GA 3500mAh protected cells on order from KD so it will be interesting to see if I get any more runtime from them when they turn up.

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