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  1. #51
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    Hey Cat or Bad

    Can you show a photo of the light head in your hand so I can get an idea of size. Also, let us know how bright you think it is and if it's a spot, etc. Wouldn't mind a run time test as I was thinking if this is a spot then mounting this to the helmet w/ a 2 by 18650 w/ the battery mounted on the helmet as well. Tired of wires!

    Thx

    MB

  2. #52
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    I could not resist yesterday either, as soon as I saw it I actually began to worry that but the time I found the charger and 6600mAh battery to order, it would be sold out. Trout's review and beam shots show the awesome potential!

  3. #53
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    Check out post #28, there are two links to reviews. The first one "Smudge's Luminator seems a good un" has amazing beamshots, runtime tests, and is by a guy whom knows lights. I like the idea of wireless too!

  4. #54
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    I don't think we really know who makes this light. It might not be the light made by Sanguan, the Luminator, since those are sold as sets only. It looks almost the same though, except for differences in the top of the body (the heat sinking fins).
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails UltraFire D99 a promising new 2x light?-fandyfire-d99-vs-sanguan.jpg  


  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpnbilly View Post
    Check out post #28, there are two links to reviews. The first one "Smudge's Luminator seems a good un" has amazing beamshots, runtime tests, and is by a guy whom knows lights. I like the idea of wireless too!
    Wireless?, I think not. These are not self-contained with battery.

    It seems these have some throw according to the reports. That is what I'm hoping for. If it throws as far as a typical 808E I'll be pleased. I might be using mine for commuting if the throw is decent. I'd use one of my Gloworm X2's but I might need to remove the lamp and leave the bike outside. The Gloworms do require a little more effort to mount with all the wires. I'd like something that I can take on and off real easy. I'll miss the remote on the Gloworm but what the hey, it's a 45 minute commute. After I've used mine on a couple rides I'll give it the "shower test" to see how it holds up to water. We'll see.

    At least it's nice that a handfull of people have already ordered one. That means we should get a nice spectrum of review.

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Sorry folks but this is too good a deal to pass up. Looks like I'll be reviewing one of these as well. So much for all that discontinued BS. That's why I had to call D/X out on the issue. When something sells out it make's no sense to stop selling it. Capitalism 101: "Make it, sell it. If it sells out make more".
    Yup, I couldn't resist either. Now I'll be able to compare it to the Solarstorm X2.
    Which ironically is also available at Fasttech with the Fandyfire name. Where do they come up with these names?

    $46.54 FandyFire X2 Cree XM-L U2 4-Mode 2000-Lumen LED Bicycle Bike Light - black / 4*18650 at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

  7. #57
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    Checked with the product manager, says these FF D99 are available, and no branding issues. Looking forward to some real-world info on the performance.

  8. #58
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    I just got an e-mail today saying that my order has shipped. Took a little longer than usual. Then again I did order of bunch of other smaller items as well. Anyway, once shipped it usually takes a couple weeks to get to U.S. ( east coast )

  9. #59
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    Me too. Was a bit worried but shipped yesterday with 6600mAh battery and a charger too. I'm pumped!

  10. #60
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    Mine's on it's way too. lighthead only.

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpnbilly View Post
    with 6600mAh battery and a charger too.
    From DX?
    Can You link to both the battery and the charger, please?

  12. #62
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    Battery and charger links


  13. #63
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    That battery looks interesting. When you get your lamp/battery it would be nice if you could do a run-time test to see how long it will run on high. It would take some time though, likely about 3.5 to 4 hr. Anyway, looks like it might make a great addition to the "Battery list" on the battery thread ( if it proves worthy )

  14. #64
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    rpnbilly: Thank you

  15. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by JakeS View Post
    Which ironically is also available at Fasttech with the Fandyfire name.
    Fandyfire lights is now available at DX too
    I Think the 2x XM-L and 3x XM-L looks interesting, 4 modes; 15% > 50% > 75% 100%
    and flashing only by a long press
    But without batteries and charger, and no info about the typ of Contact, is it 5.5 x 2.1mm or 5.5 x 2.5mm?
    If I remember correctly; Magicshine uses a 5.5 x 2.5mm contact.

    FandyFire D99 Cree XM-L T6 2-LED 1200LM 5-Mode Neutral White Bike Light Headlight - Silver + Black - Worldwide Free Shipping - DX
    FANDYFiRE D88 3 x Cree XM-L T6 1500lm 5-Mode White Bicycle Light - Black + Silver (4 x 18650) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

    Zoomable Fandyfire, but only with high and low modes.
    Buy FandyFire Cree XM-L U2 1200lm 3-Mode White Zooming Bike Light Headlamp - Black (4 x 18650)


    /Håkan
    SWEDEN

  16. #66
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    @HakanC...

    Glad to see that D/X brought the D88 back ( 3-parallel XM-L T6 ) These might be a better alternative than the typical Tri-clone lamps because I would think they would be better at handling the heat with the straight parallel design. Not to mention that the mode set-up is much better. The only problem with the D88 design might be how it might sit on the bars. Because it is longer in might hit the handlebar stem on some bikes. ( there are ways to get around that though ).

  17. #67
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    New FandyFire D99: It's Here

    Post man came knocking just before I had to get ready for work. Luckily I should have some time today to play around with this at work.

    My first impression ( shining it around my home ) was that I was very impressed. Four usable steady modes as promised and a separate flash, I'm duly impressed. I might have over-reacted to the High mode because when I first saw it I thought it might be brighter than the Gloworm X2. After throwing up a quick 5M lux test I might be wrong about that but I'll do more testing when I get home.

    Quickie observations, the beam tint on mine is slightly bluish ( which is more apparent in low and not so apparent on the upper modes ). Very characteristic of the T-6 cool tinted bin emitters. The D/X ad says these are suppose to be neutral white...no way, at least on mine. Not a deal breaker but personally I favor the tints that are more white.

    ................................Quick 5M Lux Test.............................................. ...

    New D99..............423

    Tri-Clone...............481

    Mj-808E................540

    ( All lamps on High )
    It likely won't have the throw of an 808E or Tri-Clone but it should hold it's own. I'll let you know more when I get home early in the AM.

  18. #68
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    Mine shipped out a few days after yours, so I haven't received it yet. Maybe using paypal slows down the shipping process?

    I'm surprised by these numbers though. The 808 is brightest of the bunch? Is that because the light is more concentrated in a tight spot? I had the impression that the tri was super-bright. That sucks about the tint, I prefer the neutral tint.

    I would hope that with an extra led, this light would output more total lumens than the 808. Otherwise what's the point. So it it's slightly weaker in the dead center of the beam, put has a broader beam then that would be acceptable in my opinion.

    If I remember Jim's s charts correctly, the Magicshine 880 had both more light in the middle, and a broader beam than the 808. That's what I'm looking for from the D99, a cheap 880 clone.
    Last edited by varider; 04-25-2013 at 10:59 PM.

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by varider View Post
    Mine shipped out a few days after yours, so I haven't received it yet. Maybe using paypal slows down the shipping process?

    I'm surprised by these numbers though. The 808 is brightest of the bunch? Is that because the light is more concentrated in a tight spot? I had the impression that the tri was super-bright. That sucks about the tint, I prefer the neutral tint.

    I would hope that with an extra led, this light would output more total lumens than the 808. Otherwise what's the point. So it it's slightly weaker in the dead center of the beam, put has a broader beam then that would be acceptable in my opinion.

    If I remember Jim's s charts correctly, the Magicshine 880 had both more light in the middle, and a broader beam than the 808. That's what I'm looking for from the D99, a cheap 880 clone.
    Hopefully I can eliminate some misconceptions about the lux comparison. When doing the lux test I aim the brightest part of the beam pattern at the meter. Lux has nothing to do with total Lumen output as it is only measuring the output " at the brightest part of the beam pattern ". Optics and reflectors play a big part in how high a reading you get. The more narrow the beam the higher the reading.

    The Magicshine 808E is basically a spot configured lamp. It uses a reflector and has a very good hot spot, not so much output to the sides however. Most of it's output is directed to the hotspot, that is why it reads so high. Both the Tri-Clone and the D99 have beam patterns that disperse the light more widely. Over all they are much brighter than the 808's. If I placed the meter off to the sides you would get a better idea of how much brighter they are vs. the 808E.

    When I took the D99 out tonight I found out that it will make a very good bar lamp. I tested it behind a group of buildings (near my job ) that just so happens to be completely dark. ( The buildings are about 165 ft. long ) First test was with the LL or lowest mode if you will. Surprisingly even the LL mode has some reach. ( I like it when low modes have some throw ) L2 or level 2 ( if you will ) supplied more than enough light to see well in most situations. Levels 3 and 4 are of course even better and could light up most of the way to the end of the buildings. This is about what I expected.

    The D99 is not a spot lamp, nor is it just a flood lamp. It has a very nice mix of flood and throw that I think makes it a very nice lamp for the bars. You could use it on the helmet but the distance throw does fade a bit beyond the 150 ft. mark. The D99 is using optics and not reflectors. Strange how that little fact got by me when I was ordering it. That said, it might be possible to replace the optics if you think you might want a little more intense throw. Personally I think it's fine as is.

    So far the only thing I can complain about is the beam tint. That's because I'm spoiled by all the other lamps I own that use emitters that are more "bright white". ( no bluish tint ) Still, the cool tint T-6 XM-L's light things up very well which is what most people want anyway. When I go out this weekend I'll bring the D99 along to test along with the other two lamps I just got.

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Hopefully I can eliminate some misconceptions about the lux comparison. When doing the lux test I aim the brightest part of the beam pattern at the meter. Lux has nothing to do with total Lumen output as it is only measuring the output " at the brightest part of the beam pattern ". Optics and reflectors play a big part in how high a reading you get. The more narrow the beam the higher the reading.
    Cat has it exactly correct here. It's (somewhat) analogous to saying "I have a gallon of water, how deep is it?" If you pour your gallon into a horse trough, it's this deep; if you pour it into a bud vase, it's that deep. So, if you can measure the brightest part of the beam at a given distance in either lux (lm/meter^2) or footcandles (lm/ft^2) and know the distance, you can back into the Center Beam Candlepower value by using the Inverse Square Law.

    What does this gobbeldygoo mean? Well, basically, all theatrical and architectural light fixtures publish these values in a variety of formats, and you can use them to calculate the amount of light a particular fixture produces. You can also use them to compare two fixtures to see which one performs better. If you really get into the nitty gritty, you can see the difference between beams (edge of beam is 50% of max, edge of field is 10% of max) and get a sense of what the distribution is. Perhaps you like a spot versus a narrow flood, for bar or helmet application, this data can let you know how the luminaire does its thing.

    Sadly, the bike lighting companies do not do this, so we are stuck with theoretical lumen packages, undefined CBCP, and no beam or field angles.

    However, it is possible, albeit a hassle, to compare any batch of fixtures. At a past job, I set up a 10'x10' grid on a fabric roll-drop (theatrical drape that can roll up or down and has a batten in the bottom to hold it in tension). My drop was marked in 1' squares, and I set a luminaire at a fixed distance. Based off of the meter readings at each intersection of grid points, I was able to create 3D graphs in Excel to compare CBCP, beam sizes and angles, field sizes and angles, and so on. in reality, this is an easy setup and simple math- I was a theatre major, so obviously it couldn't have been that tough. In essence, I created an extremely simplified goniophotometer (in which a fixture is mounted in a virtual sphere, and an arm with a light meter takes readings in a 360-degree path on specified axes, 0, 30, 45, etc).

    I wish these manufacturers would publish data we could actually use- although several people here are putting in valiant efforts to photograph fixtures, the camera and they eye are very different systems and don't really provide a valid basis for comparison. If we had a simple chart to compare luminaires (the DOE has created this for manufacturers to use on light bulbs, it's sort of a lighting nutrition label), then our dedicated lighting guys like Cat could go ride and enjoy their lights rather than cobble together a comparison system. Kudos to the hard work he and others have done, I just wish they didn't have to do it. End of rant, I guess.

  21. #71
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    D99 Trail testing

    I took the D99 out for a quick test spin on the trails while I was also testing a couple other lamps. ( Lamps taken; Gloworm X2, D/X Quad XM-L lamp, and the upgraded Xeccon X-12 with new XM-L2 emitter ) When I put the D99 on the bars the first thing I noticed is the bright green led staring back at me from the power button. I think this lamp has the brightest button led I've ever seen. Next time I use it I'll likely put some electrical tape across it so I don't see so much of the green light.

    One of the nice things about these two emitter XM-L lamps is that they are small and light-weight. This means they don't take up much room or move much once you put them on the bars. When I turned the lamp on it comes on in the lowest of it's four steady modes. This LL mode is surprisingly useful. It is very much like the LL mode of the Gloworm X2's. The next mode ( I'll call L2 ) provides a very nice output. Once again like the Gloworm X2 the Level 2 on the D99 is a very nice mode for general all-around cruising. This is the level I use most on my X2.

    Both level 3 and level 4 bring even more of course. Most of my comparisons were with the Gloworm X2 since both incorporate duel XM-L's. I was glad to see that when I took the D99 out on the trail that you really don't notice any blue tint. Maximum output with the D99 is very respectable. There is some fade to the center area of the beam but it still does very well and illuminates a nice wide swath of trail very similar to what the X2 does. The X2 with it's XM-L U2's is of course a little brighter but not by much. As I surmised earlier the D99 makes a nice little bar lamp. If you're looking for an upgrade from something like an 808 with flood lens the D99 would certainly make a nice upgrade without taking up a lot of space on the bars or taking too much money from your pocketbook.

  22. #72
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    Ordered one today. Always a day late I am.



    edit: Shipping notice just in. Wooo
    Last edited by pigmode; 04-28-2013 at 10:36 PM.

  23. #73
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    What is the connector size (2.1-2.5mm) on this latest DX iteration? If 2.1, how are you handling connector mismatch?

  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by pigmode View Post
    What is the connector size (2.1-2.5mm) on this latest DX iteration? If 2.1, how are you handling connector mismatch?
    The connector is a little small but does work with the magic shine type batteries.this does of course mean that it will come apart really easy, I'm not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing.so far I've not had any problems with it.

  25. #75
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    I just got my light tonight. I played with it a little bit in the house, as it's raining outside.

    First impression are a bit mixed.

    I'm surprised how small the housing is. It a little bit wider than the Magicshine 808, but it's only half the height, so that makes it feel much smaller. The controls are two buttons that are also smaller than I thought they would be. The great thing about the buttons is that have a very positive click when pressed, there's no mistaking it. Overall the light feels very well made.

    The wire coming out of the back feels more flexible than that of the 808 and it's a little bit thinner. The battery connector is not quite the same as the Magicshine. The metal conductor part is the same diameter as the Magicshine, although it's a little bit shorter. The black plastic part of the connector is much thinner than that of the Magicshine. On the Magicshine, this black part of the connector fits inside a small tube on mating part of the connector (from the battery side). The end result is that the Magicshine connection is both somewhat water resistant and hard to separate. Since the D99 connector is too small, you will not get this extra benefit. It is still compatible with the Magicshine battery. It's a secure fit and does take a little fit of force to separate

    The light has four modes plus the strobe. The light goes from low to medium 1 to medium 2 to high and then back to low by pressing the green button. The strobe mode is not part of the regular rotation. It's only activated by pressing the smaller orange button. Pressing the button again, turns off the strobe and activates the steady light. It also remembers which light level was set. Turning the light off involves pressing the green button. The light turn off and the green button stays lit for several seconds and then blinks several times and turns off. I'm not sure if it's still drawing power at this time. With the Magicshine the indicator light is always lit, meaning as soon as you connect the battery you are losing power.

    The beam on this light is somewhat dissappointing when viewed indoors. The hot spot is actually a hot ring. Inside this ring is not a bright as the ring, although much brighter than outside of the ring. I'm not sure how big of a deal this is once I get it outside. Outside of the hot spot, which is roughly 808 size, there is a good amount of light. In fact much brighter than what you get with the 808. So the d99 has some flood capability. It also seems a bit brighter than the 808, but the light tint is much bluer that it's somewhat difficult to compare the two. I wasn't able to get an idea of which throws better because I'm stuck indoors.

    Sorry I don't have any beam shots for you guys. I don't have a great spot in which to take pictures that's easily accessible and super dark. I also don't have a DSLR.
    Last edited by varider; 04-29-2013 at 10:06 PM.

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