Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 101 to 200 of 218
  1. #101
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    18
    I have received and disassembled the light.
    I am going to install it on my custom e-bike (200watt/hours 36v A123 battery, so plenty of light runtime).

    First of all, the UI (mode switching, led indicators, etc) is **spectacular**. Common cheap chinese lights are one (maybe ten..) step behind.

    Build quality and materials are also **very good**.

    There is a temperature sensor glued to the case, and it steps down to 75% at 68C measured with IR thermometer). This makes the case stay close to 70C (20C ambient temperature).
    Light intensity is modulated by low frequency pwm, but in normal usage scenarios this is not an issue.

    This light comes really cheap for one single tragic flaw: thermal dissipation.
    I cannot recommend this light to anyone that doesn't want to disassemble and try to fix it.
    Thermal contact with the case is made by 0.5 millimeters (HALF A MILLIMETER) of contact area. Cree XMLs are really though and can withstand really high die temperatures, but not at this level.

    When the case is at 60C, led dies are at 140C. Lumens produced decrease by 30+% and the leds are in immediate danger of being damaged.

    This light cannot be operated at full power.
    Now I am waiting for Cree XM-L2 80CRI neutral whites to be delivered from mouser, then I'll install them on the board and try to glue everything with arctic alumina, trying to make really thick lateral thermal paths to help heat transfer, that for sure won't be optimal but at least not this bad.

    This is the worst thermally-engineered light I ever came across. Beware of that.

    PS. sorry for SI units.

  2. #102
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    5,423
    @ bozma88;

    Thanks for the review. Yes, there are thermal issues but I'm not sure that I would agree with your assessment that the lamp is not useable "as is".

    If you only run the higher modes "when needed" and aren't living in the desert you shouldn't have too many problems as long as you maintain air flow on the lamp when in use. Eventually I might try to mod mine as well. Let us know how the up-grade to XM-L2's work out. If possible if you remove the emitters, sure would be nice to have a picture of the mounting area minus the current emitters.

  3. #103
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    1,014
    I've been using mine on high and haven't noticed any problems. The case does gets very warm, almost hot.

  4. #104
    mtbr member
    Reputation: pigmode's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    245
    Long term reports will hopefully tell the story. Its coming on two weeks since mine shipped.

  5. #105
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    120
    Quote Originally Posted by varider View Post
    I've been using mine on high and haven't noticed any problems. The case does gets very warm, almost hot.
    In my book that's a good thing.
    If the case would have stayed 'cold' would have been worse, much worse.


    /Håkan
    SWEDEN

  6. #106
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    5,423
    Interesting thing about the F-Fire D99, the top is almost flat. Shouldn't be too hard to add a heat sink if someone felt they needed some additional cooling. One of the reasons I liked the look of the Solarstorm X2 was that it had more "fins" built into the lamp body. My bet is that it will dissipate heat better ( then the D99).

  7. #107
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    18
    Quote Originally Posted by HakanC View Post
    In my book that's a good thing.
    If the case would have stayed 'cold' would have been worse, much worse.


    /Håkan
    SWEDEN
    I agree with that, but the fact that it gets hot outside doesn't tell the whole story about what temperature the internal pcb reaches.

    In this case, when the external container reaches 70C (scorching hot to bare hands), the internal MCPCB is at 120C, with leds at 140+C.

    This is the highest operational limit of these leds, and they cannot be safely operated at that temperature for any amount of time.

    The mcpcb is glued to the case with two small lateral drops of thermal glue. There is no direct contact bewteen mcpcb and case, all the heat is taken away by these two small drops of (low quality) glue. I am pretty sure that putting a lot of good quality thermal glue all around the perimeter of the mcpcb will lower mcpcb temperatures of at least 20 degrees. Scratching and removing internal anodization will improve thermal transfer further.

    Keep in mind that Cree recommends **DIE** temperatures < 85C to safely operate the light for long amount of times. This means a mcpcb temperature of 70C or less.

    Even operating the leds at 150C for small periods will damage them, because of all the thermal => mechanical stress induced on dies and bonding wires by huge temperature excursions.

    I am still waiting for the delivery of the new xm-l2s, when they arrive I'll do a deep photographic documentation of installation and thermal dissipation pre-post fix. These leds have a lower voltage drop so thermal dissipation should be 5% less compared to currently installed xml-s.

    Have a nice day

  8. #108
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    1,014
    You're making some pretty big statements bozma88. Did you make your measurements with the light in front of a fan? How did you make your measurements? Most riders will not operate a high-powered light on high when they are not moving, precisely because they are afraid of the heat damaging the internals.

  9. #109
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    18
    Quote Originally Posted by varider View Post
    You're making some pretty big statements bozma88. Did you make your measurements with the light in front of a fan? How did you make your measurements? Most riders will not operate a high-powered light on high when they are not moving, precisely because they are afraid of the heat damaging the internals.
    I made meaurements with an industrial grade thermocouple and an IR thermometer, without airflow.
    This doesn't matter because the problem here is not the temperature of the external case but the huge thermal resistance between mcpcb and aluminum case, that translates in a big temp. differential between case and mcpcb.

    In case of forced airflow the situation is not going to be better (this light steps down at a certain temperature so airflow is quite irrelevant). If the air is cool and strong enough to keep the case at 30C, leds wuold still be at 100C .

    This light is sensational regarding build quality and UI, but I think that
    this low price is due to this thermal flaw that renders it unreliable in the medium-long term.

    Luckily I think that surrounding the pcb with thermal glue will improve thermal transfer a lot.

    I'll provide some photos to make you realize how absurd the thermal management is.

    Meanwhile here's a quick comparation on how the contact between pcb and case SHOULD be and how it IS (actually the path isn't even lateral because there is considerable gap between the edges and the case).

    Name:  20130514_075958.jpg
Views: 1900
Size:  60.8 KB Name:  20130514_075950.jpg
Views: 1908
Size:  61.6 KB

  10. #110
    mtbr member
    Reputation: pigmode's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    245
    ^ Pics will be appreciated.

  11. #111
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    5,423
    Boz, When I took mine apart I only noticed two wires. I'm assuming this is a series configuration (?) ...Am I wrong about that?

    Looking forward to what you do when you replace the emitters.

  12. #112
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    162
    Quote Originally Posted by bozma88 View Post

    I'll provide some photos to make you realize how absurd the thermal management is.

    Name:  20130514_075958.jpg
Views: 1900
Size:  60.8 KB Name:  20130514_075950.jpg
Views: 1908
Size:  61.6 KB
    Can you take a photo of the inside of the housing with the pcb removed? Is there no "wall" in the housing (behind the LEDs) to glue the pcb onto?

  13. #113
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    1,014
    Can't you just put some thermal paste under the board and be done with it? After removing the old stuff, of course. I have some artic silver that I used for a PC-cpu-to-heatsink application. Can I use this, or do I need something different?

    Who in their right mind tests a high powered led light without some airflow. It makes all the difference in the world. Most light manufacturers even tell you not to use their lights on high when not moving. This goes all the way back to days when TurbuCat halogen lights were all the rage.

    I don't think it's right to trash the reputation of a light with testing doesn't replicate real-world use.

    This is a pretty nice light in my opinion. It has an near ideal user interface. It's small and compatible with industry standard battery connectors. It has a spot-flood combo beam that's very nice although not perfect. And it was a very good deal at $32.

  14. #114
    mtbr member
    Reputation: PedroDank's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    151
    Quote Originally Posted by varider View Post
    Can't you just put some thermal paste under the board and be done with it? After removing the old stuff, of course. I have some artic silver that I used for a PC-cpu-to-heatsink application. Can I use this, or do I need something different?
    I was wondering the same thing.

  15. #115
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    18
    Quote Originally Posted by varider View Post
    Can't you just put some thermal paste under the board and be done with it? After removing the old stuff, of course. I have some artic silver that I used for a PC-cpu-to-heatsink application. Can I use this, or do I need something different?

    Who in their right mind tests a high powered led light without some airflow. It makes all the difference in the world. Most light manufacturers even tell you not to use their lights on high when not moving. This goes all the way back to days when TurbuCat halogen lights were all the rage.

    I don't think it's right to trash the reputation of a light with testing doesn't replicate real-world use.

    This is a pretty nice light in my opinion. It has an near ideal user interface. It's small and compatible with industry standard battery connectors. It has a spot-flood combo beam that's very nice although not perfect. And it was a very good deal at $32.
    You cannot put thermal paste under the board simply because there is no contact area under the board.

    Operating the light with no airflow or operating it with airflow is the same thing, because this light has a thermal sensor that steps power down at 70C.

    Even if the airflow keeps the light at 50C, leds would still be at really high temperatures because there is no contact area between leds and case.

    This light is very well engineered in every aspect but thermal management.
    For it to be perfect, we have to do something to increase thermal transfer.

    please trust me, I am really passionate (and knowledgeable) about led lighting and seeing this thing is like an civil engineer that sees a bridge made with toothpicks

    Please note that I am here not to destructively complain about this light but to make costructive ideas arise from this issues.

    Pics will arrive this very day, I am sorry for the delay.

  16. #116
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    1,014
    That's cool.

    From what I gather from your posts, there is some sort of gap behind the led board. Is that right?

  17. #117
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    18
    well, actually there's nothing but a giant hole behind the led board

  18. #118
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    5,423
    Quote Originally Posted by bozma88 View Post
    well, actually there's nothing but a giant hole behind the led board
    Holy hole-in-the-wall bozman!...

    Well that does put new spin on the issue. Just what is the board made of and how much contact does it actually have with the metal part of the lamp? If you can supply a photo it might inspire some ideas on how to improve the thermal issues.

  19. #119
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    5,423
    Okay, I decided to investigate a little further. I took the front off again and started poking around. I also removed the rear. From what I can tell the back of the board is metal. How much metal I can't tell. How much of that metal is contacting the lamp body I can't tell either. The edge of the electronics board is backed right behind the back of the MCPCB board so really not a lot of wiggle room if you catch my drift.

    I did poke around the front of the board to see if it would lift up but I really couldn't make it move. Whatever is used to hold it in place is doing a pretty good job.

    Something else I noticed, I took a bright LED torch and shone it in the front towards the back while I looked from the back to the front. I could see the outline of the metal ( MCPCB ) around most of the board. This is not inspiring. Only in a couple small areas was the light not able to penetrate. I have a feeling Boz is correct, there is not a lot of contact area with the metal area of the lamp body ( and metal area of the MCPCB ).

    Personally, I can't see myself trying to remove the MCPCB unless I know I can replace it. I figure If the contact area is that small nothing you do is going to make that much difference ( unless you can re-engineer the front of the lamp ) . If you try to remove the board you might end up destroying it in the process. Now if I could get another board the same size and shape as the one already there ( only with better emitters ) it might be worth trying to remove the one already in place. As it stands, the board in place looks custom made with the emitters embedded into the board. Destroy the board and you might as well toss the lamp into the trash.

    Nope, this is not looking like an easy mod. For me, not a big deal, I have better lights. Still the lamp works, has a good UI and provides a decent output and beam pattern. Output will drop WHEN the lamp gets hot. That I already knew. How long it will last if you use the lamp in it's max output mode for extended periods is anyone's guess.

  20. #120
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    162
    Quote Originally Posted by bozma88 View Post
    well, actually there's nothing but a giant hole behind the led board
    Pics will arrive this very day, I am sorry for the delay.
    Holy ... not easy to take a foto of the whole hole ...

  21. #121
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    1,014
    Ok, now I understand.

    Wow, that sucks! I just assumed there was a solid wall behind the led board. Oh well, not the greatest design. That's why it's so small, they left out the thermal conduction wall! I wonder how long it will take to fry itself.

    So that leaves the Solarstorm x2 and dx ultrafire D-50 as possible good and cheap dual-emitter lights.

  22. #122
    mtbr member
    Reputation: pigmode's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    245
    Looking forward to the fix.

  23. #123
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    18
    Quote Originally Posted by mrradlos View Post
    Holy ... not easy to take a foto of the whole hole ...
    Unfortunately my job has much priority and I found myself having no time at all until now. Sorry for the delay.

    UltraFire D99 a promising new 2x light?-case.jpgUltraFire D99 a promising new 2x light?-mcpcb.jpg

  24. #124
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    5,423
    Okay, pretty much looks like what I expected. There looks like there's a small lip that goes around each of the emitter areas and that is the only contact area that you get for the emitter board.

    Boz, your board looks undamaged. can you explain what you did to remove it.

  25. #125
    Light freak
    Reputation: scar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    2,793
    That is crazy. Just when you thought you had seen it all



    ****

  26. #126
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    18
    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Okay, pretty much looks like what I expected. There looks like there's a small lip that goes around each of the emitter areas and that is the only contact area that you get for the emitter board.

    Boz, your board looks undamaged. can you explain what you did to remove it.
    The board was attached with two small lateral drops of thermal glue.
    Puttting slight pressure from the back is enough to detach it.
    It seems to be really high quality, or at least it is really thick (~1,5mm)

    Leds have been unsoldered using a hot air soldering station and yes, they are in series (very good thing).

    The electronics seem really good to me. Quality soldering, quality components and good UI. I'll provide some pics of the final result when the new leds get delivered.

  27. #127
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    3,238
    Quote Originally Posted by bozma88 View Post
    The electronics seem really good to me. Quality soldering, quality components and good UI. I'll provide some pics of the final result when the new leds get delivered.
    Make sure that the inductor on the driver board is glued down. That was the case in the two Chinese lights I have worked on. Trail vibration of the inductor caused lead breakage to occur and the lights to fail.

  28. #128
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    5,423
    Quote Originally Posted by bozma88 View Post
    The board was attached with two small lateral drops of thermal glue.
    Puttting slight pressure from the back is enough to detach it.
    It seems to be really high quality, or at least it is really thick (~1,5mm)

    Leds have been unsoldered using a hot air soldering station and yes, they are in series (very good thing).

    The electronics seem really good to me. Quality soldering, quality components and good UI. I'll provide some pics of the final result when the new leds get delivered.
    About the leds; Are you going to try to just re-solder in the new LED's where the old ones were or are you going to be using LED's on a star or smaller board?. Wow, I'm impressed that you were able to remove the LED's from the board. You must have some nice electronic tools.

  29. #129
    Kir
    Kir is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    165
    Quote Originally Posted by varider View Post
    So that leaves the Solarstorm x2 and dx ultrafire D-50 as possible good and cheap dual-emitter lights.
    D-50 is great, just posted details in the thread about it. No thermal problems with it at all.

  30. #130
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    18
    pictures of neutral white xm-l2 installation and thermal fix are coming!
    as a preview, I'll tell you that led's die temperatures dropped by 30+C (102C @ thermal protection kick in - 70C case), and the tint is a beautiful 4000K.


  31. #131
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    18
    Quote Originally Posted by Kir View Post
    D-50 is great, just posted details in the thread about it. No thermal problems with it at all.
    D99 is preferable in street use because of TIR lenses producing less side spill and thus less blinding for incoming traffic

  32. #132
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    18
    Pictures here ->> Fandyfire D99 XM-L2 swap

  33. #133
    Kir
    Kir is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    165
    So what exactly is this, thermal glue?

  34. #134
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    9
    Hi guys, DealExtreme here...

    If you were to choose between the D50 (sku#203434) or the D99 (sku#199471) to run a special offer,

    Which would be preferable?

    joseph ~DX

  35. #135
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    1,014
    I would prefer the D50. Let us know if/when the special offer starts. Thank you very much.

  36. #136
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    120
    Quote Originally Posted by varider View Post
    I would prefer the D50. Let us know if/when the special offer starts. Thank you very much.
    +1

    /Håkan
    SWEDEN

  37. #137
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    18
    Keep in mind that with 2$ of thermal glue the D99 becomes a great light with really high manufacturing quality and a great UI, with TIR optics (less side spill and glare for upcoming traffic) and above all with a THERMAL SENSOR that prevents leds burn out.

    With the fix I made (and after the swap) I am really in love with the D99. D50 seems a really cheap knock-off of mj880, you can clearly see that mfg quality is inferior (look at the cheap screws and the - maybe - plastic bezel..).

    Imho, with $2 of thermal glue and a bit of patience the D99 becomes a very good light with TIR optics

    Joseph, I vote for D99!

  38. #138
    mtbr member
    Reputation: pigmode's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    245
    Still haven't got mine going on 5 weeks.

  39. #139
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    1,014

    A quick review

    I've ridden with the D99 a bunch of times, mostly on the road, but some excursions onto pitch black dirt forest roads.

    I don't really care for the optics on this light. As I mentioned before, this light creates a hot-ring and not a true hot spot which you will have with a Magicshine 808. This is both good and bad. The D99 spreads the light around in more of a flood type pattern. In fact there is even some light at extreme angles. This makes it good on pitch black forest roads, as you can really see everything that is going on at the sides of the road and in the center. It's just not super bright in the center. The hot ring, when viewed on a white wall, turns into a hot arc when projected on the road surface. The top of the ring (the far part) fades into the darkness. You may find the bright arc to be a distraction since objects will become suddenly brighter as they enter the bright zone. Still it's a pretty good light at this type of riding. On singletrack I want more light in a center hot spot, so this light is not optimal.

    On the road, where there is some ambient light from streetlights and houses, the lack of a hot spot frustrated me. It's just not bright enough in the center to overpower the ambient light. The Magicshine 808E or the Magicshine 872 clone are much better at this. The D99 is probably makes you very visible to cars, as it really spreads light around. The super-fast strobe will really make you visible, but it will also be super annoying for motorists. They may try to shoot you. When you ride with the strobe light on, it makes everything look slow-motion. It's not really usable. It may be good for crossing intersections, but I haven't really tried it.

    So this light is a mixed bag for me. Frustrating on the road, good on pitch black dirt forest roads, probably not the best at singletrack. The UI is good, the thermal management is bad. For some reason I lose track of which mode I'm in when I want to go to high mode I frequently click one to many times and end up back in low. The glow in the dark rings are nice, because it makes your bike easy to find in the dark if the light is off.

    Personally I prefer light with a true hot spot. I have gone back to using a Magichine 872 clone on the bars, which I bought for around the same price from ebay. It's a bright super-flooder with a true hot spot. It has two switches for lowering and raising the modes. The modes don't go in a circle from high back to low. If you are in high and press the up button, the light doesn't go back to low. You have to press the down button three times. It's a different setup, but I prefer it for a 4-mode light.

    From what I have gathered on the other threads, the D50 or the Fandyfire X2 may be a better match for me. I wish I could get these lights as lightheads only, as I have two excellent batteries and don't need to spend extra money on a complete light/battery/charger package.

  40. #140
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    18
    Thanks for your review.

    I cannot agree with you about the hot spot because mine has a true hot spot in the center, very bright and even, with no "hot rings". But I've modded mine with two different leds that have slightly different emission patterns, so maybe that's the reason for different opinions.

    I am using it on my custom e-bike, fully handmade, nearly 1hp and 45km/h - 28mp/h of speed. D99 is connected to my 36V 240Wh Lithium battery with a cheap DX DC-Dc step-down converter (16h of light runtime!).

    UltraFire D99 a promising new 2x light?-20130413130343.jpg

    UltraFire D99 a promising new 2x light?-fznwmtwh.jpg

    UltraFire D99 a promising new 2x light?-pzxmlu9h.jpg

    UltraFire D99 a promising new 2x light?-vf6yszxh.jpg

    UltraFire D99 a promising new 2x light?-yozqzefh.jpg

    If you are interested, here's my e-bike image album: eBike

  41. #141
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    162
    Quote Originally Posted by DXofficial View Post
    Hi guys, DealExtreme here...

    If you were to choose between the D50 (sku#203434) or the D99 (sku#199471) to run a special offer,

    Which would be preferable?

    joseph ~DX
    A D50 "lighthead only" option (no battery) for $30 would be very nice!

  42. #142
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    178
    Quote Originally Posted by varider View Post
    From what I have gathered on the other threads, the D50 or the Fandyfire X2 may be a better match for me. I wish I could get these lights as lightheads only, as I have two excellent batteries and don't need to spend extra money on a complete light/battery/charger package.
    If I'm not mistaken the D99 was $39 lighthead only. (In now apears to be down to $30.79)

    With discount the SolorStorm/FandyFire was $44.21. Less than $5 for the battery & charger isn't really a hardship. My battery, at least, isn't crap. I've run it for 3.5 hrs (About 40 min on low and the rest on medium). Certainly not as good as the best batteries we can get, but a heck of a lot better than the worst fleabay ones we've seen.

    At a less than $50 price point, isn't the "Darn, I can't get it as the light head only" argument kind of a moot point? It may not be green to get a "backup" battery you may never use, but at these prices, it isn't a deal breaker either.

  43. #143
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    1,014
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian_C View Post
    If I'm not mistaken the D99 was $39 lighthead only. (In now apears to be down to $30.79)

    With discount the SolorStorm/FandyFire was $44.21. Less than $5 for the battery & charger isn't really a hardship. My battery, at least, isn't crap. I've run it for 3.5 hrs (About 40 min on low and the rest on medium). Certainly not as good as the best batteries we can get, but a heck of a lot better than the worst fleabay ones we've seen.

    At a less than $50 price point, isn't the "Darn, I can't get it as the light head only" argument kind of a moot point? It may not be green to get a "backup" battery you may never use, but at these prices, it isn't a deal breaker either.
    Well I think I paid around $33 from this link:
    FandyFire D99 Cree XM-L T6 2-LED 1200LM 5-Mode Neutral White Bike Light Headlight - Silver + Black - Worldwide Free Shipping - DX
    They seem to have this light with multiple sku's and different branding. It's a bit confusing really.

    Yeah, you're right the extra money isn't a huge deal, but I'm feeling cheap lately. I was thinking more of the d50 which is around $60 for the package, which puts it past the why-not impulse-buy category. But why spend the extra money on an unknown product (to me) when I really have no idea if it will be better than what I already have. I'm also thinking in terms of buying multiple lightheads, that $10 or $15 difference will add up to be an additional light over time.

    After reading the thread on the exploding battery packs, I'm not sure I even want one of these cheap(er) battery packs in my home.

  44. #144
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    1,014
    bozma88,
    you definitely have a superior light with the new leds you put in. Nice work on the conversion. I'm surprised you have a hot spot. That would make this light much better in my opinion.

    Also, where are you getting thermal glue for $2.

  45. #145
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    18
    Please be really careful with cheap Lithium-Cobalt batteries, they are able to set your house on fire.

    Lithium batteries carry a lot of energy and no one should buy the cheaper brands.

    They may work harmlessly for 3 years and then set everything on fire.

    You can be cheap on lights, but if you really want to handle battery packs carelessly you should go for LiFePo chemistry, intrinsically safer because they don't exhibit thermal runaway upon failure.

  46. #146
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    18
    Quote Originally Posted by varider View Post
    bozma88,
    you definitely have a superior light with the new leds you put in. Nice work on the conversion. I'm surprised you have a hot spot. That would make this light much better in my opinion.

    Also, where are you getting thermal glue for $2.
    Thank you very much.

    Due to the nature of TIR lenses the hot spot is less prononuced compared to aluminum reflectors, but the side spill does not exhibit distracting tint variations (green anyone?).
    The great thing about tir lenses is the ability to change the beam pattern by swapping lenses.
    This maked D99 a preferable product over D50.

    Asymmetric optics (60x15° or similar) may be the best option for riding. At the moment I am unable to source an asymmetric lens of the right diameter, but they surely exist.

    Something like this:

    Name:  L2OP520-1.jpg
Views: 1130
Size:  22.6 KB

    Regarding thermal glue, Dealextreme sells cheap but useable thermal glue for a few bucks (fujik).
    I used this, not the best in the world but enough for this task.

    eBay

  47. #147
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    165
    Quote Originally Posted by bozma88 View Post
    Please be really careful with cheap Lithium-Cobalt batteries, they are able to set your house on fire.

    Lithium batteries carry a lot of energy and no one should buy the cheaper brands.

    They may work harmlessly for 3 years and then set everything on fire.

    You can be cheap on lights, but if you really want to handle battery packs carelessly you should go for LiFePo chemistry, intrinsically safer because they don't exhibit thermal runaway upon failure.
    Cobalt = bad? Silly me, I was thinking a Li battery was a Li battery?

  48. #148
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    3,238
    Since that thermal glue has less than 1 percent the thermal conductivity of aluminum do you think it is really helping all that much? Sure, it will be better than originally assembled but enough better to really keep the LEDs temperature close to the case temperature?

    I am not real knowledgeable about thermal design, but it still does not seem like an efficient thermal path to the housing.

  49. #149
    Kir
    Kir is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    165
    bozma88 where did you get that mount for headlight? I want to buy it too

  50. #150
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    18
    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    Since that thermal glue has less than 1 percent the thermal conductivity of aluminum do you think it is really helping all that much? Sure, it will be better than originally assembled but enough better to really keep the LEDs temperature close to the case temperature?


    I am not real knowledgeable about thermal design, but it still does not seem like an efficient thermal path to the housing.

    For such a thin layer of glue, 1 or 100 is almost the same. The paste fills the air gaps created by irregularities between the two surfaces, thus helping thermal transfer a lot.
    This glue is electrically non-conductive, which may or may not be a requirement in this case.
    High conductivity Al-based glues may work better, but as long as temperatures stay in a safe range (I'd say under 100°C) everything is ok.
    My fix works because leds die temperature decreased by 20-30°C.

    Scraping the anodization in the area to be glued may help to increase thermal conductivity, but the improvements may not be worth the hassle.


    Quote Originally Posted by speedneeder View Post
    Cobalt = bad? Silly me, I was thinking a Li battery was a Li battery?
    Lithium cobalt oxide - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

    I operate my eBike with a self-built A123 LiFePO4 battery pack. Safest Li chemistry available, but expensive (30 cells + balancing electronics -> 500+USD).
    It's to you to consider a safe chemistry that does not burn your house down expensive or not

  51. #151
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    18
    Action-LED-Lights ? Computer / Headlight Mount

    I bougth the MT-201P, build quality is very good and the bar lenght is a perfect fit fot D99.

  52. #152
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ironbrewer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    324
    I use the MT 204 and really like it.

  53. #153
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    165
    I wonder what chemistry battery came with my mj-808?

  54. #154
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    18
    Every battery pack sold with bike headlights is LiCo ;-)

  55. #155
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    165
    Good to know!

  56. #156
    mtbr member
    Reputation: pigmode's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    245
    Dam, I spaced out and let the paypal dispute period slip by. Ordered a D99 on 28 April, and still haven't received it.

  57. #157
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    18
    Ask dealextreme for a refund or for another to be sent free. If you are kind and wait patiently for their reply there is some chance that you'll sort it out.

    Happened to me twice, and I live in Italy, the country with the wrost customs service in the whole world. It usually takes 60 days for chinese packages to be delivered to my door.

  58. #158
    mtbr member
    Reputation: pigmode's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    245
    Thanks, I've sent and they've started an inquiry. I can wait.

  59. #159
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bobale's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    51
    Beamshots, anyone?

  60. #160
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    5,423

    Consumer Alert: No charger with D/X D-99 offerings.

    It has just come to my attention ( from a post on another website ) that NONE of the D99's sold WITH BATTERY from D/X are including a charger ( ). No mention of this is included in the ads. Very bad marketing unless of course this was a mistake somehow. I've notified the D/X rep so he can address the issue.

    In retrospect, If you are buying ANY lamp from D/X that includes a battery read the ad very carefully to make sure if it includes a charger. ( look at all photos to confirm this as well ).

  61. #161
    mtbr member
    Reputation: pigmode's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    245
    The good news is they have refunded my order, which has never arrived. Anyway I'm taking it the SolarStorm is the preferred of the two, so...

  62. #162
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    9
    Quick update guys,

    we have updated the sku#206863 D99 to reference the charger needed (which is the sku:132155)

    the other D99 don't come with battery packs included. Thanks Cat and others for pointing it out.

    The Solarstorm kits are complete with charger.

    DX

  63. #163
    mtbr member
    Reputation: pigmode's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    245
    Quote Originally Posted by DXofficial View Post
    Quick update guys,

    we have updated the sku#206863 D99 to reference the charger needed (which is the sku:132155)

    the other D99 don't come with battery packs included. Thanks Cat and others for pointing it out.

    The Solarstorm kits are complete with charger.

    DX


    Ali offers refunds if item doesn't arrive in 20 days. You people made me wait 3 months. Screw your updates.

  64. #164

  65. #165
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    1,014
    That's a nice looking light. I wonder if this has flood optics like the d99.

  66. #166
    Kir
    Kir is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    165
    It has them, same plastic TIR-lenses. I'll probably buy it to test and review, neutral-white T6-3B XM-L2 leds are a rare thing for chinese lights.

  67. #167
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    897
    So with the mounts from action LED you are still mounting with o-ring? I worry about vibration and light drooping. Is there a way to hard mount it to a clamp instead? That would be preferable IMO.

  68. #168
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    5,423
    ohhhhh...very nice! Me Likey. 2000ma output....nice ...XM-L2's ...nice...Looks like the MCPCB is mounted to a full metal back....even better. This one's only three modes but...oh no, wait a minute....low mode only 5%....mid-mode only 30%...DEAL KILLER!!

    No Cat Nip here I'm afraid.

  69. #169
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    58
    5%, 30% 100% mode spacing sounds quite good to me. The Human eye does a terrible job of discerning difference between lumens, 30% would look more like 65% brightness. With a mid mode of 50% the brightness wouldn't appear to be all that different between mid and high mode. I know from modding flashlights that the difference between 1A and 2A isn't really that discernable to the naked eye, although I'd rather have the option to go up to 5A, just because..

  70. #170
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    456
    You're really just buying the light head. Look at the battery pack. Looks like a 4 cell. They state 8800 mah. Ha, think not.

  71. #171
    Kir
    Kir is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    165
    I agree, 5-30-100 is much better as 5-50-100.
    And as for battery pack...8800 is unfortunately possible since it probably uses 4.2v input voltage

  72. #172
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    5,423
    Quote Originally Posted by Kir View Post
    I agree, 5-30-100 is much better as 5-50-100.
    And as for battery pack...8800 is unfortunately possible since it probably uses 4.2v input voltage
    Yeah it might be 4.2 volts. The mode set-up suggest it is using a flashlight driver. The 30% mid mode is typical for flashlights. Since I use flashlights I know the mid-modes are quite usable but than again flashlights typically use reflectors which put most of the light where you need it and this lamp uses optics. Also if the battery is 4.2 volts the LED's might be in parallel which would cut the power down a lot. Lots of "if's" here.
    If I were to buy one of these it wouldn't be before contacting the seller to try to get a little more information.

  73. #173
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    58
    If it's a 4.2v battery then it would be like 1A to the emitters if comparing to other 8.4v bike lights which would be too low, I'd suggest it's an 8.4v 4400mAH battery pack as usual and someones just got their math wrong. This one looks great to me.

  74. #174
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    1,106
    Ooh, I like this one! How'd I miss this thread?
    It's currently on sale ($57) but the sale ends in an hour.
    Hopefully someone will have it on sale again soon.

  75. #175
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    456
    I think wkJR is right on this one otherwise at 4.2v you'd be looking at maybe 250 lumens per LED?? Or there abouts.

    MB

  76. #176
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    5,423
    Quote Originally Posted by whokilledJR View Post
    If it's a 4.2v battery then it would be like 1A to the emitters if comparing to other 8.4v bike lights which would be too low, I'd suggest it's an 8.4v 4400mAH battery pack as usual and someones just got their math wrong. This one looks great to me.
    Believe me, since no one really knows you want to ask the seller BEFORE you buy. I like the look of these lights too but if you want something to work like you want you have to put those thoughts aside. Function is more important than looks.

    My gut tells me these lamps might put out about 900-1000 lumen on high. That would put the mid-mode at around 300 lumen. On the other hand if the emitters are in series you will have much better output on high and the mid-mode might get as high as 400-450 lumen. That wouldn't be so bad but personally I'd rather have the mid-mode at least 500-600 lumen with low about 200. Judging from the comparison photos I think my first guess is the more likely. Hope I'm wrong about that. I would love to see a user beam shot of this lamp.

  77. #177
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    58
    Fully agree Cat-man-do, I should make it clear I'm only happy to speculate as I'm off the market to buy one of these lights but am interested in the near future, but I'd probably contact the seller to clarify some details as well before buying.

    I'm a little optimistic with this light because of the convoy brand, while still budget they are generally well built, of good value and quite popular in the flashlight community, in particular for modding as these are generally DIY hosts. I love the design of the integrated pill (led stars attached direct to the host) and the single dual star, and the fact that it comes with XM-L2 with the 3B tint makes it look like someones been listening.

    Again I'm speculating but I doubt it's a 4.2v battery pack with driver wired in series, it would lose to much brightness and wouldn't make sense considering the good heatsink design. Also I doubt it would be a typical flashlight driver, as mentioned above Convoy are basically built hosts that are fitted with standard drivers and emitters after they've left the manufacturer, or so it would seem. So far I haven't come across a convoy product that comes with it's own driver. It would be difficult to find a standard flashlight driver that's built for 4 cells in series at 4.2v or even finding a flashlight driver wired 2s2p as they aren't very common, the former probably don't exist as it wouldn't make much sense. It would make a lot more sense that they are using a typical bike light driver for fitting and compatibility.

    The optics has both it's pros and cons, without seeing a beam shot I like the idea of having floody optics as they would disperse light more evenly than a reflector and would be less of an issue for other drivers to look at, however you will lose lumens with them as optics aren't as efficient as reflectors, they are only something like 70%-80% efficient. However I do wonder if they are the standard sized TIR optics that are sold at some flashlight vendors:

    Optical lens : Led Flashlight-International Outdoor Store

    If they are it would add some real modding potential and versality as you can select a range of different kinds of flood and spot optics.

    The dual shadow light battery pack and driver work differently, this is of no surprise as shadow are their own brand and on their newer models they have been making their own drivers.

    Of course this is all just fun speculation, I could be wrong and would feel like a complete tit if I was wrong and someone bought one based on my information.

  78. #178
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    8
    Hi guys,
    anybody already recognized that one?

    Latest 2xCree XML U2 LED Bicycle Light Rechargeable Bike headlight/lamp Front Light +Power Indicate 8.4v Battery Pack-in Bicycle Light from Sports & Entertainment on Aliexpress.com

    Seems to be the same light but with 2 xml U2 and 8,4V... and much cheaper.

    I don't post to often in this forum, but I was guessing this could be interesting...

  79. #179
    Kir
    Kir is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    165
    Nice find!
    Seems like the same light, yeah.

  80. #180
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    1,106
    Quote Originally Posted by leuchte81 View Post
    Hi guys,
    anybody already recognized that one?

    Latest 2xCree XML U2 LED Bicycle Light Rechargeable Bike headlight/lamp Front Light +Power Indicate 8.4v Battery Pack-in Bicycle Light from Sports & Entertainment on Aliexpress.com

    Seems to be the same light but with 2 xml U2 and 8,4V... and much cheaper.

    I don't post to often in this forum, but I was guessing this could be interesting...
    One thing that concerns me is that the URL address is odd. When you hover your cursor over the link, the URL is for a Q5 250 lumen head lamp.
    Wonder if there's a mix up, because that price seems pretty low, no?

  81. #181
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    5,423
    Quote Originally Posted by fightnut View Post
    One thing that concerns me is that the URL address is odd. When you hover your cursor over the link, the URL is for a Q5 250 lumen head lamp.
    Wonder if there's a mix up, because that price seems pretty low, no?
    I see no problems with the link. The price is not unusually low. These are with XM-L U2's while the other was with warmer bin XM-L2's. A real shame they didn't decide to keep the 4 mode driver ( with two buttons ) that was used with the original D99's. I would buy one of these in a heart beat but I just don't know if I would like the output. Anyone out there plan on buying one of these? We really need a review with some user beam pics.

    edit:...side thought: I wonder if these set-ups are compatible with the optics used on the Gloworm lamps?

  82. #182
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    8
    Hi all,
    as this shop had no reviews I contacted the shop (to see if I get an answer) via ali and asked about the URL-address. That's what he answered:

    Thank you for your info. There is something wrong with the Ali. It is the original 2x CREE XML U2 Bike light, not Q5(it is only used for flashlight). And the current draw is 3 A on high mode.There are U3 bike light which is also popular.Our web is below: http://www.fobledlight.com/EN/index.html

    So the current draw with 3A would be higher than with the first version of SHENZEHN Great Wall Tech with 2A...


    Cheers

  83. #183
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    1,106
    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    I see no problems with the link. The price is not unusually low.
    When you hover your cursor over the link, the url says "Cree-Q5-LED-250-lm-18650-Head-light-Tapping-lamp-Miner-s-lamp-headlamp-Bike". You have to do this on a desk top computer with your mouse.

    As far as the price, I just saw these somewhere else for like $89 (or thereabout), so I'd say $42.50 is pretty low.

    So low in fact that I contacted them to make sure it wasn't for JUST the light head, and they replied that it is a complete light kit with battery and charger, and that it's just on promotion.

  84. #184
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    1,014
    Quote Originally Posted by fightnut View Post
    Ooh, I like this one! How'd I miss this thread?
    It's currently on sale ($57) but the sale ends in an hour.
    Hopefully someone will have it on sale again soon.
    It's back on sale! I just wish we had better beamshots of this light. I feel I got burned by the d99.

  85. #185
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    1,106
    Quote Originally Posted by varider View Post
    It's back on sale! I just wish we had better beamshots of this light. I feel I got burned by the d99.
    Thanks for the update. I'm gonna bookmark it, but I gotta say, now I'm more interested in the XML-U2 version for only $42.50 that leuchte81 linked.

  86. #186
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    5,423
    Quote Originally Posted by fightnut View Post
    Thanks for the update. I'm gonna bookmark it, but I gotta say, now I'm more interested in the XML-U2 version for only $42.50 that leuchte81 linked.
    Yes, so am I. Not sure I believe that the driver is putting out 3A. If it is I would have to ask whither or not the LED's are in series or in parallel. If in series with 3A THAT would make for one little bright lamp. Once again though the other important question to ask is , " What is the power output to each of the three steady modes"? Would be nice if you could buy one without the battery.

  87. #187
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    8
    Hi guys,
    me again. I found the light head on gemini lights.

    Gemini DUO LED Light 1400 Lumens | Gemini Lights

    Looks nice, but a littler more expensive...

    Someone already bougt something from Aliexpress? Unfortunately they don't accept paypal. Otherwise I already would have bought one most likely.

    Cheers

  88. #188
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    5,423
    Quote Originally Posted by leuchte81 View Post
    Hi guys,
    me again. I found the light head on gemini lights.

    Gemini DUO LED Light 1400 Lumens | Gemini Lights

    Looks nice, but a littler more expensive...

    Someone already bougt something from Aliexpress? Unfortunately they don't accept paypal. Otherwise I already would have bought one most likely.

    Cheers
    Ha! How 'bout that. Dang if it doesn't look exactly like the Gemini Duo!

    About the Paypal thing with Aliexpress; Yeah I noticed that the other day. I was going to buy something and then noticed that they didn't take Paypal. Because of that I decided not to purchase. If Paypal doesn't trust them I'm not going to trust them.

    Not to worry, it shouldn't be too long before some of the other Chinese light websites begin to sell these.

  89. #189
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    8
    Hi guys,
    me again! Now you can get the light at fasttech.com and pay via paypal.

    $51.18 YINDING 2*Cree XM-L U2 4-Mode 1800-Lumen White LED Bike Light / Headlamp - 1*battery pack (4*18650 / 4400mAh / 2S2P) / US plug at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

    Unfortunately I just purchased it from aliexpress!!! Maybe I gonna cancel that order...

  90. #190
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    19
    Quote Originally Posted by leuchte81 View Post
    Hi guys,
    me again! Now you can get the light at fasttech.com and pay via paypal.

    $51.18 YINDING 2*Cree XM-L U2 4-Mode 1800-Lumen White LED Bike Light / Headlamp - 1*battery pack (4*18650 / 4400mAh / 2S2P) / US plug at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

    Unfortunately I just purchased it from aliexpress!!! Maybe I gonna cancel that order...
    cool, i was also put off by no paypal @ aliexpress.
    now to decide between the shadow BL20, Yinding 2x cree xm-L U2 & the nitefire hero2 3x for a new barlight.

  91. #191

  92. #192
    Kir
    Kir is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    165
    Whats with the paypal obsession? Ali offers the same buyer protection without all the paypal crap with blocked accounts.
    And fasttech one is kinda expensive - its cheaper on ali OR you could get custom version for $6 more with much better neutral-white xm-l2 leds.

  93. #193
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    19
    Quote Originally Posted by Kir View Post
    Whats with the paypal obsession? Ali offers the same buyer protection without all the paypal crap with blocked accounts.
    And fasttech one is kinda expensive - its cheaper on ali OR you could get custom version for $6 more with much better neutral-white xm-l2 leds.
    prefer not to give out my credit card details. Thats why

  94. #194
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    806
    I'd also avoid any store that doesn't accept PayPal...

  95. #195
    Kir
    Kir is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    165
    And why should chinese trading platform use USA paypal?
    Personally I try to avoid paypal payments because its probably the worst company ever...but this is getting offtopic.

  96. #196
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    806
    Quote Originally Posted by Kir View Post
    And why should chinese trading platform use USA paypal?
    I'd put the question other way around: why Chinese trading platform oriented to the foreign customers, ask them to use USA payment systems like VISA or MasterCard, but refuse to accept customer-security layer commonly used essentially everywhere?

  97. #197
    Kir
    Kir is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    165
    Because they provide their own security layer (your money is not released to seller until you've confirmed that you've received your order - which is even better than paypal).
    AliExpress Buyer Protection Home
    Ad unlike paypal they won't randomly lock your account because of "suspicious activity" and ask you to fax some random documents to them (happend to me twice already). Paypal is horrible and everybody knows that

  98. #198
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    806
    Being long-time happy PayPal user, I wish great success to AliExpress with its own security. But without me...

  99. #199
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    5,423
    Quote Originally Posted by Kir View Post
    Because they provide their own security layer (your money is not released to seller until you've confirmed that you've received your order - which is even better than paypal).
    AliExpress Buyer Protection Home
    Ad unlike paypal they won't randomly lock your account because of "suspicious activity" and ask you to fax some random documents to them (happend to me twice already). Paypal is horrible and everybody knows that
    ...Sorry, don't take this the wrong way. I just couldn't help from laughing because I'm assuming that maybe Paypal saw all the lamps you were buying and thought maybe something was wrong. You have to admit your "purchasing pattern" is somewhat unusual and probably quite different from most. Even the credit card companies will freeze a card if they see "unusual activity".

    The only reason I prefer PP is because it's so easy. The added bonus is that I don't have to share the CC info with anyone but them. Buying is much easier because when you press the "use Paypal" button the link takes you directly to PP and all you have to do is use your password to confirm that you are who you say you are. I figure the less people that have my credit card info the better off I am. Personally, I've never had a problem with them. On chance that I suspect my PP info ( password ) has been compromised all I have to do is change the password. So far, I've only done that once.

  100. #200
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    1,014

    Caution;  Merge;  Workers Ahead! New optics for the original d99

    I've been mulling over trying to switch out the optics on the original d99 in order to get a better beam shape. The original did not have have a true hot spot, as it created a hot ring with the inside of the ring being dimmer than the super narrow ring part.

    I measured the optics in the d99 and found the diameter to be about 19.6mm and a height of 12.2 mm.

    The 20mm carclo optics are the approximate the same diameter (might need to file it down). They are a little shorter at a height of 9.9 mm. The optics are held on by pressfit by an inside lip on the silver part against the led board and body. You can probably make up the difference in height by putting a small oring or washer in front of smaller carclo optics, or by sanding down the edge of the silver part on the d99.

    I've been spending a lot of time on the carclo optics page looking at all the options. There are a ton of options for different optics.
    Carclo Optics - Opticselect (search for xml optics)
    Pretty much the sky is the limit on what you can achieve. On the details page for each optic you can see a chart (and a picture) of what the beam with an xml emitter looks like. Each optics has it's own spread and the 50% beam strength angle is shown on the graph. I think you can consider this to be the width of the hot spot.

    I projected some lamps I have onto a wall and measured the width of the hot spot. Then I measured the distance from the wall and used some trigonometry to figure out the approximate angle.

    Magischine 808E has an approximate total sweep angle of 11 degrees
    872 clone has total sweep angle of 22 degrees.

    I really like the spread of the 872 clone, and have always thought the 808E was too narrow (for a bar light). Obviously the throw is not that great on the 872 clone.

    The carclo optics have a huge range of beam spread that includes both of these lights. I was surprised at how big the range really is. I think the narrowest is the 10193 at 16 degrees all the way up to 46 degrees of the 10209. Some of the optics even have a region near the center in which the intensity is even.

    There's also an elliptical optic 10197 which focuses all the light into a bar shaped hotspot. This could be very useful for a road bike light.
    Optics details

    A lot of these options are for sale on Newark for around two or three dollars per optic.
    10197 - CARCLO OPTICS - LENS, REBEL | Newark

    Here's a quick chart of the beam spread (paired with xm-l). This is the 50% peak intensity list on the chart)

    10193 - 16 degree (total from left to right) (similar to 808E)
    10194 - 18 degrees
    10195 - 26 degrees
    10196 - 38 degrees
    10197 - Elliptical
    10208 - 32 degrees
    10209 - 46 degrees

    All these are available on newark.

    So is worth getting new optics for this light? For the sake of experimentation, maybe. But I think this emitter aren't driven very hard, so the end result still won't be very bright. By the time you add shipping you are spending around $10 -$12 (at newark) for two optics. I priced three sets of optics for a total of $24. Like I said, it's probably not worth the extra cost when you can just buy a better lighthead (ssx2, 872 clone, triple xml, d50, quattro xml). I might be cool be mess around with it though, and a cheap way to determine which kind of beam shape you prefer.

    Just to clear, I haven't actually bought any of the optics and tried it out. So I'm not a 100% sure it will work. You might be throwing your money away if you do buy these optics.

    I put all this work into reading about the optics and I thought you all might find this useful.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Members who have read this thread: 1

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •