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  1. #1
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    TrustFire TR-D014 7xCree XM-L2 T6 4-Mode 3000LM Bicycle Light (LC)

    One member from the forum here PMed me about this light so I decided to push the trigger and the light should be on the way A review will come after I get it.

  2. #2
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    ... the light came today including a visit to the customs - better said I went to pick it up just a quick measurements @7.4V on a 600W switching supply before I write a longer review:

    HI - 4.22A
    MED - 1.48A
    LO - 0.22A

    If I remember these values. More or less it is one of those not underpowered lights with a smaller driver than the 7-up reviewed by me.

  3. #3
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    Now I arranged my time to write a "full" review of this light I got from Lightscastle. It is quite easy to compare it with the noname 7-up I have.

    It came in a nice colorfull sturdy package - seems to be a genuine trustfire, none of my lights came like that. Maybe because of I buy the head only. Package contained 3 o-rings, head, 6 cell battery, 1A 8.4V usual "charger"a short manual with some tech data included, warranty card and a QC card wit a date - April 11th 2014 - as hot as it can be

    I would say the light is water resistant (IPX4) but can also be made waterproof with some silicone at the seals.
    The head can absorb and dissipate heat better than my 7-up. The downside is the weight ~358grams - additional ~80g more! But if someone doesn't mind the weight the light puts out a decent light and can run cooler even in lower speeds. On high mode it takes 4.22A @ 7.4V - I need to measure the 7-up at that voltage to see if there is any difference. The mount is a classic plastic used by many of lights out there. It can be removed and light can be used in a tripod as a camping light where it will perform better than the 7-up due to its body mass. Anyway the head quality is one of the best among Chinese lights and also the build of other components is quite fine. Grey body consists of 3 pieces screwed/pressed together. The driver is easily accessible from the back and is quite small comparing it with the 7-up - one mosfet instead of five a beefy inductor coil and two caps are the main components. And a funny 6 colorfull leds at the back of the light where the mode button resides. A bit useless for me but it is there. LEDs are an XM-L2 but come sort of cool white (light yellow led die). Wire gauge to the leds is also decent. Soldering pretty good too. The leds on the head can be pushed far more but that would need a driver change (some 100W from pcb-components.de or similar). Reflector is a smooth one with a rose pattern and is screwed from the back of the light with 2 screws. There is some thermal glue between the leds and head body.

    The UI starts from HIGH-MED-LOW-OFF with hidden strobe - thumbs up for that hidden mode! Stepless will be a nice feature and prolly can be done but most of the crucial components are sanded off any identification. We have some rain now so no beamshots yet but the pattern is similar to the 7-up. I'll update that also.

    The battery pack is a 6 cell thing quite heavy in rugged silicone cover and in a carry bag with straps - the whole package the light came in is about 1100grams! It came precharged to 7.7V I didn't test the pack just opened it and saw some 1800mAh cells in 2p3s (5400mAh) - near to advertised 6000mAh. If that is true - and it seems to be it is a nice pack seeing some 700mAh cells around We'll figure that out with my hobby charger. The manual states the light can operate 2.5hrs on high but I doubt. Then it should be some 10000mAh pack. I would expect about 1.25hrs runtime on high but that is a decent time with 32Watts on leds.The only issue is the heatshrink wrapping the cells is cracked on some spots. Connectors on head and pack seem to fil very well together. The pack has also a protection circuit so it should kick in if something goes wrong.

    Overall it is a decent light very similar to my 7-up. If someone is looking for an all-in-one package and as long as someone doesn't mind the weight of the whole set. 7-up is more a compact light than this D014 - 2 cm shorter and also little thinner at the back.

    I'll update the comparison with the 7-up - draw, reflector, beamshots and test the battery pack. If I am right this light is a dedicated bar light - a monster flood & spill exactly as the 7-up - just need to check the reflectors. On MED & HIGH no need of any helmet light Guys let me know if I didn't mention something important that you like to read about it and I will update it here. For now some couple of shots I made inside playing with the light:



  4. #4
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    Thanks the review. It is excellent and useful.

    You said that you'll compare it with your original 7x LED light and you'll make bemshots. But... Because your original light is advertised as it has only XM-L leds (2 lights of your 3 orders have XM-L, only 1 have XM-L2, and there is not any reliable source of the XM-L2 version (link to the comments)), the beamshots should be taken of the XM-L version of your original 7 LED light. (Or compare both the original 7 XM-L and XM-L2 version with this TR-D014 light.)
    Anyway, I'm waiting for the beamshots.

  5. #5
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    Hmm since I ride 7-up twins (L2 & L though) the difference between them is barely noticeable for me. I notice somehow that L2 is more like neutral white if it is the only light that is on, using both L & L2 there is nearly no difference. I'll take TF D014 and take some shots of all three when it stops raining. The whole week rainy weather

    Anyway today I played with the 7-ups and noticed that D014's reflector has smaller diameter. The depth seems to be equal by eye so D014 beam will be narrower. How much we'll see from beamshots. I found current draw of the 7-up from my li-po @7.53V written on the paper:
    HIGH: 4.66A
    MID: 1.72A
    LOW: 0.28A
    To get better comparison I have to hook it on the same power supply @7.4V but they seem to have the same mode spacing.

    Might be worth push the full amps to the D014 and get 0-100% modes with driver, dimmer and variable resistor. The D014 is easily moddable and has a lot of mass to dissipate the heat. But that would require some 6S li-po battery, power cable swap, senser driver and some of those dimmers:
    http://pcb-components.de/index.php?p...mart&Itemid=64

    http://pcb-components.de/index.php?p...mart&Itemid=64

    The comparison shots with some wall beamshots @LOW - don't know if they have sense:
    Last edited by MK96; 05-17-2014 at 03:31 PM.

  6. #6
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    And as I am talking about modding this light if you do it the hotspot remains the same size. Dual setup makes it logically wider. That is why I am using twins.

  7. #7
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    MK96, thanks for review! Seems like decent light. I wonder how so many indicator LEDs are arranged: is it some kind of "voltage gauge"? Also, I've never seen tripod mounting among bike lights. As I understand, the case has 1/4" thread directly compatible with tripod screw?

  8. #8
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    Yes, it is a 1/4" thread, just need to unscrew the plastic mount:





    Meanwhile I've added a balance connector to the pack and it took a charge of 2700mAh to jump from 3.85V/cell to 4.2V/cell. I assume the capacity is somewhere between 5400-6000mAh:


  9. #9
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    Thanks -Archie-! No the 6 LEDs aren't a gauge, they are just in an on/off cycle - quite useless:

    TrustFire TR-D014 7xCree XM-L2 T6 4-Mode 3000LM Bicycle Light (LC)-1.0x0.jpg

    I could imagine a voltmeter showing the total voltage of the pack on such big lights. Would be the most precise info you can get


    Quote Originally Posted by -Archie- View Post
    MK96, thanks for review! Seems like decent light. I wonder how so many indicator LEDs are arranged: is it some kind of "voltage gauge"?

  10. #10
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    Initial discharge to 3V/2A showed 4791 mAh. I would say it is close to 5400 mAh pack, just need a couple of cycles.

  11. #11
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    Second discharge and batt gave ~5100mAh, nice I would say.

    ... and the beamshots ordered lo-med-hi - just think they are not the best one MTBR settings (ISO 200, F4.0, 1.6s, daylight) and a friend's Canon EOS 550 DSLR but a bad place to take shots IMHO. Anyway better than nothing. Road is down the hill but just a little.

    power 7 XM-L T6:




    power 7 XM-L2 T6:



    TF TR-D014:



    and reference w/o bike lights

  12. #12
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    It's good that you've made some beamshots. But unfortunately these beamshots are not useful. The only thing I can see is that they all have similar brightness and one of them have a slightly different tint (nothing more can be seen). So I still have some questions.

    1. Does the TR-D014 have hotspot?
    2. Which light has better flood?
    3. Which light has balanced and smooth transition from flood to hotspot?
    4. Which light is the brightest overall?
    5. How far do they throw the beam?

    Questions that are not related to beamshots:

    6. Which light lasts/would last longer (with the same battery capacity)?
    7. Which light stays cooler and has more runtime at full brightness when you're not moving?

    You should make some beamshots from the same area (and same camera) where you did it for the original 7 LED light.
    For example: http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-...l#post10906038
    Last edited by zekia; 05-28-2014 at 01:12 PM.

  13. #13
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    Hi zekia!
    Yes, exactly, I will go to that place and compare it there, I was thinking about this as I saw the result beamshots. That one with a different (warmer) tint is power 7 with xm-l2.

    To the questions:
    1. TR D014 hotspot is wider from the wall shots and I confirm this theory by the next set from the same place I was for the first time
    2. power 7 has more flood (from the beamshots)
    3. Show us next beamshot set, but I think TR D014 is the answer
    4. Overall is power 7 little brighter, but you didn't really notice it (from ths beamshots), TR D014 has very low intensity low setting
    5. How far they throw - hmm cannot say exactly, but very far - maybe around 100 meters far on high
    6. TR D014 lasts longer because it eats less on every mode
    7. definitely TR D014 stays cooler, power 7 heats up quite quickly on high

  14. #14
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    Thanks the answers.

    I've edited my post and added numbers to my questions. Now the numbers are confusing. The answer for the first question is missing.

  15. #15
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    Didn't notice it so mine is edited too now

  16. #16
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    What mount do you have on your left light in this photo? (It doesn't look like a general O-ring mount.)

    IMG_20140517_204223_zps0d23bf6d.jpg Photo by kuzmami | Photobucket

  17. #17
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    That is the Cateye H-24 mount, works flawlessly Didn't manage to take shots at the same place because I'm finishing my dissertation in two weeks so I'll take them after I submit the work.

  18. #18
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    My dear. so how long actually the light run in high emitting mode?

  19. #19
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    Didn't measure, but 4.6A and ~5100mAh battery would give something about one hour on HIGH.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    Didn't measure, but 4.6A and ~5100mAh battery would give something about one hour on HIGH.
    It means the Manufacturer is not telling the truth to their customer. It stated in their web site that this light could be run at High Emitting Mode for at least 2.5 hours.

  21. #21
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    Did you find a way to re-program the unit so as to be able to choose your own power settings etc..? Which Micro-Controller unit is being used.. Thanks.
    Last edited by EFMax; 08-14-2014 at 10:37 AM.

  22. #22
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    I complained to their China manufacturer deeply, they finally sent me back another battery pack (NO waterpoof wrapping) which was fabricated by using Samsung 26F batteries. The light is able to operate at highest output for 3 hours now. Anyway, I will not recommend this light to my friends unless they are prepared to buy another more powerful battery pack.

    Quote Originally Posted by supersaian View Post
    It means the Manufacturer is not telling the truth to their customer. It stated in their web site that this light could be run at High Emitting Mode for at least 2.5 hours.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by EFMax View Post
    Did you find a way to re-program the unit so as to be able to choose your own power settings etc..? Which Micro-Controller unit is being used.. Thanks.
    No I didn't play with it. The modes are just usable for me as they are set. Low for slow climbing/commuting, Then the resonable Medium usable almost everywhere and the High turbo - if you let your bike to ride down the hill 40+KPH . If you want to change the modes I would change the driver (with some brand named you can get a fully adjustable 0-100% range).

    Quote Originally Posted by supersaian View Post
    I complained to their China manufacturer deeply, they finally sent me back another battery pack (NO waterpoof wrapping) which was fabricated by using Samsung 26F batteries. The light is able to operate at highest output for 3 hours now. Anyway, I will not recommend this light to my friends unless they are prepared to buy another more powerful battery pack.
    ... the concept of truth can vary across nations. But since you are buying a bugdet light you cannot expect the same quality everywhere. BTW DX has now a head-only option, so you can go for whatever battery you want.

    Overall feeling about this light is that is it quite heavy comparing it with the 7-up's I have already. I don't use light on high when standing still, so I don't need that additional weight and most of the time I'm staying with the 7-up duo.

  24. #24
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    Okay, thanks for the reply.. Do you know which driver this light uses and now having now opened mine up (wanted to seal it up good) and was going to ask you if you thought the internal wiring used was up to giving the leds full power or not... cheers..
    Last edited by EFMax; 08-19-2014 at 07:25 AM.

  25. #25
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    It uses a boost driver, don't know which one. You need to upgrade the wiring before pumping more amps to the leds. Select the proper wire using some of the AWG calculators available online.

  26. #26
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    Okay, thanks for that.. wiring did look a little lightweight... do you have any upgrade plans for the one you have.. I guessing there is not much room for improvement with the current board - it's a big board but so much different from the one on my 7-UP.. cheers for your input..

  27. #27
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    No plans yet, I'll keep it as is. I did a couple of comparison shots, will post them soon here or into my gallery.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    It uses a boost driver, don't know which one. You need to upgrade the wiring before pumping more amps to the leds. Select the proper wire using some of the AWG calculators available online.
    Ok.. spent some time yesterday and took everything apart (well what I could). Re-wired it with some decent cable (well the power input cable - should I do each LED series cable as well as it looks pretty good as it is) and added some additional thermal paste around the LED board-case.. allowed it to dry and then added a thin layer of sealant between the glass and the front bezel that holds the glass in place.

    Just need to find a driver now.. been looking on the net but have not really seen anything to catch my eye - maybe I am looking in the wrong places - many of the boards that I have seen so far seem to handle 6x LEDs but not 7x. Unless you have personal fav shop, then I will keep searching.. feel quite confident that this lighth has some greater prospects.. thanks for your help so far..

  29. #29
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    Take a look if any of Taskled.com drivers suits you. Not budget, though.
    Last edited by ledoman; 08-25-2014 at 02:09 AM.

  30. #30
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    Replied to you PM: pcb-components.de should do the trick with all the stuff you need and I believe they have a fairly quality stuff. Seems you have taken your own way mate, good luck then! Taskled would be another option, I just like the pcb-c senser extreme driver (100W+ to drive )

  31. #31
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    Again, all the help on this has been appreciated.

  32. #32
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    Grabbed a couple of beamshots from the PhotoBucket album. Zekia, perhaps you may like 'em.

    The TR-D014:







    And the Power 7-UP:






  33. #33
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    Nice beamshots, good comparison.

    How bright is this TR-D014 light compared to Lupine Wilma 7? Is this light as bright?

  34. #34
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    I have owned, well still own a Wilma and previously a Betty. In standard form this light is way ahead of a Wilma and as good as a Mk1 or Mk11 Betty. I am in the process of upgrading my light and when finished I expect it to be as good if not much better than the current Betty and have much better cooling because of the bigger casing. And you just cannot complain about the price.

    Many people complain about the batteries but I ordered mine without the batteries or charger. In standard form, I would say the strobe mode (where mine was on high) is unusable on the road as it is just too bright for safe road use.

    This is a unit that is very much under powered hence why I am upgrading the wiring and driver. I expect that once finished, it should reach an easy 5000LM and possibly higher - I have not done the maths but 7x XML-2 T6 driven at 3amp/led should turn night into day.

    To be fair, given the standard unit is pretty darn impressive in its underpower state, I am guessing that 3A/Led may be way more than is ever needed so I may underdrive mine to say around 2.5A - will depend on the boards configurability (HBFLEX) driven at 14.8v (as advised by the OP and others).
    Last edited by EFMax; 08-31-2014 at 05:06 AM.

  35. #35
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    I would say it is brighter, too

    Quote Originally Posted by zekia View Post
    Nice beamshots, good comparison.

    How bright is this TR-D014 light compared to Lupine Wilma 7? Is this light as bright?

  36. #36
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    Ok love the prices and the reviews. But do any have helmet mounts??

  37. #37
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    I dont think you would like to put this 300g light on the helmet. But the other way yes, helmet mounts do exist. I would use the alloy gopro mount and swap this original o-ring mount.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    I dont think you would like to put this 300g light on the helmet. But the other way yes, helmet mounts do exist. I would use the alloy gopro mount and swap this original o-ring mount.
    I finally broke my plastic mount bombing through a rock garden. could you direct me to to the GoPro adapter? a link would be awesome. thanks for all the information everybody!
    Quote Originally Posted by Optimus View Post
    Hell of a jump, dawg. Even though they're baggy shorts, I'm surprised that you can fit your balls into them.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtdawg21892 View Post
    I finally broke my plastic mount bombing through a rock garden. could you direct me to to the GoPro adapter? a link would be awesome. thanks for all the information everybody!
    not trying to be a pain, but i'm still on the hunt for an aluminum mount for this thing. ive been running only a helmet light and want to get this thing going again.
    Quote Originally Posted by Optimus View Post
    Hell of a jump, dawg. Even though they're baggy shorts, I'm surprised that you can fit your balls into them.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtdawg21892 View Post
    not trying to be a pain, but i'm still on the hunt for an aluminum mount for this thing. ive been running only a helmet light and want to get this thing going again.
    PM Vancbiker. I think of anyone on the board he would be able to hook you up.

  41. #41
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    PM sent. Thanks for the line.
    If he can't hook me up I saw an aluminum version of the original plastic o-ring mount that would probably not break but still do a crappy job of securing the light.
    Quote Originally Posted by Optimus View Post
    Hell of a jump, dawg. Even though they're baggy shorts, I'm surprised that you can fit your balls into them.

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