Page 5 of 6 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 LastLast
Results 101 to 125 of 131
  1. #101
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    886
    Quote Originally Posted by cue003 View Post
    They look like they are mounted so close together that you could have probably gotten by with a single rz8 running along the top of the helmet.
    that's a common misconception - people think RZ8 is omni-directional, but it is actually quite directional ! if i mounted one down the center i would have to aim it up into the sky and 90% of the output would be wasted.

    in my testing the RZ8 puts out about 10 times the light from the front as compared to from the back.

    as they are set up now, one is aimed to the left and one to the right. it's not just that one is on the left and another on the right. no. they are AIMED in the opposite directions. they are directional like any other light. they simply have much wider spill and no hot spot, but they're still directional.

    i already tested this setup. i find that it works as i expected - which is to say very well.

  2. #102
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    886
    Quote Originally Posted by MaximusHQ View Post
    Yes Androgen you only need one red zone 8. So send the other one directly to me.
    hehe

  3. #103
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    886
    rather than wait for the drunks to finish partying i decided to do a video indoors for the time being. here it is:

    it shows both Dinottes and 2X NiteFluxes side by side.


  4. #104
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MaximusHQ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    583
    Good info Androgen about the RZ8. I had no idea that they were that directional. Also I agree, it's a good idea to avoid the drunks.

  5. #105
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    886
    Quote Originally Posted by MaximusHQ View Post
    Good info Androgen about the RZ8. I had no idea that they were that directional. Also I agree, it's a good idea to avoid the drunks.
    i have an older video:

    Bike Lights Beam Pattern Demo - YouTube

    where you can clearly see the pattern RZ8 has. it is 2-3 times wider than Dinotte, but still has a similar overall pattern. it is not spherical.

  6. #106
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    225
    Thanks for video. The rz8 is being blocked by the other rz8 you have on your helmet so of course if one of them is off then the other won't be 360 degrees type of visibility. If you only had one rz8 at the top of your helmet you will probably have even visibility from both sides. I don't own the rz8 so I am just basis thing on looking at all your videos etc.

  7. #107
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    886
    Quote Originally Posted by cue003 View Post
    Thanks for video. The rz8 is being blocked by the other rz8 you have on your helmet so of course if one of them is off then the other won't be 360 degrees type of visibility. If you only had one rz8 at the top of your helmet you will probably have even visibility from both sides. I don't own the rz8 so I am just basis thing on looking at all your videos etc.
    look the RZ8 simply has 4 LEDs on one side of it ( all facing the same direction ) with a semi-transparent silicone cap on top. this cap diffuses the light somewhat, and even allows some light to go around the body of the light and come out from the back side - but only a small fraction of the light. most of the light goes straight through the silicone cap like it's not there and all comes out from the same side of the light.

    when looking directly at the RZ8 with the cap off you can still see the individual LEDs right through the silicone cap. you can see the cap glowing too, but mostly you just see the LEDs themsevles right through it.

    if you look at it from up close it looks bright from all sides, even the back, but that's because at that distances your senses are overloaded and you can't really judge the difference between "too bright" and "even brighter"

    however if you put it next to the wall and don't look at the light itself, but instead on the light projected on the wall then you can judge the relative degree of the light nad realize that most of the light is coming out in about a 120 degree cone from one side, and there is only minor spill elsewhere.

    you are right in this video it is hard to judge because another RZ8 is blocking the back. even in my older video there was a helmet blocking the back side.

    if there is really that much controversy about this issue i can do a separate video about just the pattern of RZ8 and hold it up next to the wall without any obstructions such as a helmet. then we can settle it once and for all.

    but i'm telling you - if you want to use it for side lighting, it will work much better if you have one facing the left side and one facing right side.

    in my old videos where i have RZ8 on the back of the helmet it can't keep up with my spoke lights when viewed from the side, because it's side output is quite limited - most light just goes back. if / when i do the next video i expect to see a big improvement in side visibility due to the RZ8 now being aimed sideways. whereas before it was getting clobbered by the spoke lights i now expect it to dominate them.

  8. #108
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    6
    Androgen. Just wanted to say thank you for this thread. Found it on the net and read through the whole thing. Just great work. Like you I live in NYC. Right next to the GWB actually. I was thinking of purchasing an RZ8 and a CYGOLite 800 for the front. I am not a commuter but with the need to train on my bike in the winter i will be out at night for about 1.5 hours max. You think this would be a good setup to start with. *This would also be about my budget for now as well. Thanks a lot man!

  9. #109
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    886
    Quote Originally Posted by vipergts831 View Post
    Androgen. Just wanted to say thank you for this thread. Found it on the net and read through the whole thing. Just great work. Like you I live in NYC. Right next to the GWB actually. I was thinking of purchasing an RZ8 and a CYGOLite 800 for the front. I am not a commuter but with the need to train on my bike in the winter i will be out at night for about 1.5 hours max. You think this would be a good setup to start with. *This would also be about my budget for now as well. Thanks a lot man!
    Dinotte 400R is both much brighter and has much longer run time than NiteFlux and the price difference isn't much - $189 shipped for 400R versus $161 shipped for RZ8. To me the Dinotte would be a no brainer. Only question i would need to ask myself is if i wanted 400R or 400R Daytime Red. the Daytime Red has double the output, for extra $40 over the regular 400R. i would prefer the Daytime Red in heavy traffic ( like manhattan ) and i would prefer the regular 400R on smaller, quieter streets.

    as for headlights there are too many choices. i'm not familiar with cygolite so i can't comment other than to say 800 lumen isn't a lot for a dual LED lamp. latest generation lamps put out about 700 lumens from a single LED lamp, 1200 from dual LED and 1500 from 3 x LED, above which point the light starts to become limited by its ability to dissipate heat at around 2,000 lumens.

    Gloworm X2 V3 seems to be a hot light right now:

    Action-LED-Lights ? GLOWORM X2 v3 1500 lumen Bike Light

    previous generation claimed 1200 lumen and measured 1150. this new generation claims 1500 lumens ( with newer generation LEDs ) and probably delivers 1400 in reality, which would be almost double of what cygolite claims to put out from the same size helmet mountable package.

    there is an active discussion of the X2 V3 here:

    Gloworm X2 v3 ( XM-L2) Who's In?

    once again, i can't recommend the Red Zone. it's not bright enough for manhattan IMO and and it has too much down time between blinks - it has very short bursts spaced very far apart in time - they did this to stretch out the battery life from the embedded cell and to keep the light from overheating without a heatsink - but its a compromise in terms of visibility.

    the 400R is head and shoulders above Red Zone in visibility in my opinion and the reason for that is bigger battery, aluminum heatsink and proper optics. the NiteFlux has no heatsink and no optics to speak of and the performance really suffers as a result.

    the NiteFlux i think is better reserved for special applications where for whatever reason Dinotte cannot be used. on the seatpost Dinotte will outclass NiteFlux completely.

  10. #110
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    886
    Here is the new outdoor video with 2 X Dinotte + 2 X Niteflux.


  11. #111
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1,631
    I think you are now probably visible enough. Anyone that hits you will have had to be aiming at you. If you have a problem it's going to be with being confused with UFO sightings.

    J.

  12. #112
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by androgen View Post
    Dinotte 400R is both much brighter and has much longer run time than NiteFlux and the price difference isn't much - $189 shipped for 400R versus $161 shipped for RZ8. To me the Dinotte would be a no brainer. Only question i would need to ask myself is if i wanted 400R or 400R Daytime Red. the Daytime Red has double the output, for extra $40 over the regular 400R. i would prefer the Daytime Red in heavy traffic ( like manhattan ) and i would prefer the regular 400R on smaller, quieter streets.

    as for headlights there are too many choices. i'm not familiar with cygolite so i can't comment other than to say 800 lumen isn't a lot for a dual LED lamp. latest generation lamps put out about 700 lumens from a single LED lamp, 1200 from dual LED and 1500 from 3 x LED, above which point the light starts to become limited by its ability to dissipate heat at around 2,000 lumens.

    Gloworm X2 V3 seems to be a hot light right now:

    Action-LED-Lights ? GLOWORM X2 v3 1500 lumen Bike Light

    previous generation claimed 1200 lumen and measured 1150. this new generation claims 1500 lumens ( with newer generation LEDs ) and probably delivers 1400 in reality, which would be almost double of what cygolite claims to put out from the same size helmet mountable package.

    there is an active discussion of the X2 V3 here:

    Gloworm X2 v3 ( XM-L2) Who's In?

    once again, i can't recommend the Red Zone. it's not bright enough for manhattan IMO and and it has too much down time between blinks - it has very short bursts spaced very far apart in time - they did this to stretch out the battery life from the embedded cell and to keep the light from overheating without a heatsink - but its a compromise in terms of visibility.

    the 400R is head and shoulders above Red Zone in visibility in my opinion and the reason for that is bigger battery, aluminum heatsink and proper optics. the NiteFlux has no heatsink and no optics to speak of and the performance really suffers as a result.

    the NiteFlux i think is better reserved for special applications where for whatever reason Dinotte cannot be used. on the seatpost Dinotte will outclass NiteFlux completely.
    Thanks a lot for the info. Didn't know about that brand you suggested. One thing I should have said is that I do not want a corded light. I have three bikes I switch between depending on the kind of training I need to do. So a cordless option that I can swap out quickly would be best. That would seem like going with the 300r instead for the rear? Unless another option you would think would be better? Again really appreciate you taking the time out.

  13. #113
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    886
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80 View Post
    I think you are now probably visible enough. Anyone that hits you will have had to be aiming at you. If you have a problem it's going to be with being confused with UFO sightings.

    J.
    thanks John. i feel the new setup is more logical in the sense that light is better directed towards where it should be going.

    just now i realized something i should have realized a long time ago but i will share this thought now:

    basically tail lights are usually seen against backdrop of other tail lights, headlights usually seen against backdrop of other headlights and side lights are usually seen against backdrop of marker lights.

    we can google for long exposure images of traffic at night and see exactly what we're up against:

    from this image:



    it is clear how much more of a challenge car headlights are than tail lights when you need your bike light to stand out against them.

    and from this image:



    we can see how LITTLE of a challenge car side marker lights present for bike side lighting to stand out against.

    in other words side lighting doesn't need to be very bright to be effective. you need to have side lighting - but it doesn't need to be bright. as long as you have it - no matter what it is really - it is doing something for you.

    the tail lights on the other hand to be effective need to have some degree of brightness. the 300R is enough, but something like a cateye AA blinky really isn't.

    and the headlights to stand out must put out serious lumens, becuase they will be going up against car headlights.

    fortunately the market availability of lights matches these requirements almost perfectly ! i used to get pretty annoyed at the lack of options for bright side lighting - but now i understand that brightness isn't that critical for side lighting.

    all of this may already be obvious to you, as it should have been obvious to me. but even if on some level i was conscious of this before, it has only become crystal clear to me just now.

  14. #114
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    886
    Quote Originally Posted by vipergts831 View Post
    Thanks a lot for the info. Didn't know about that brand you suggested. One thing I should have said is that I do not want a corded light. I have three bikes I switch between depending on the kind of training I need to do. So a cordless option that I can swap out quickly would be best. That would seem like going with the 300r instead for the rear? Unless another option you would think would be better? Again really appreciate you taking the time out.
    300R is a very good option for switching between multiple bikes. it comes with multiple mounts and a quick release so you can have a mount on every bike and switch the light in 5 seconds with just a single click.

    the wired 400R has that feature too, but you would have to also move the battery which would add some time to the process.

    i have had 300R before, but don't have it now. JohnJ80 is using the 300R you can probably ask him if you have more questions. maybe he can even sell his to you.

    you can watch my 400R Daytime Red unboxing video here:



    the 300R will be very similar, except without an external battery.

  15. #115
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    6
    Excellent thanks a lot! Any option on a wireless front light? Will probably put the order in for both tomorrow. 300r looks really good.

  16. #116
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    886
    on the other hand the output of 300R is lower than of 400R. in fact it would be close to RZ8, and when you consider that RZ8 has much wider coverage and is cheaper than 300R, and more flexible - you might as well get RZ8.

    i don't really recommend either 300R or RZ8. the light i used to recommend is 400R, and now i will probably be recommending 400R Daytime Red ( i only just got the Daytime Red, and only rode with it once so far ). but for some reason everybody has a phobia of wires.

    the reason you get the killer deal with 400R is because the housing, battery and charger used by 400R and 400R daytime red are used also by many other dinotte lights - so the savings are passed on to you. economics of scale.

    on the other hand 300R is a fully custom light, so it costs as much as 400R despite having much lower output. same for RZ8 - it costs a lot because it is a fully custom light.

    on the other hand the housing that 400R is built into is bread and butter for dinotte - they have been making all sorts of lights in this housing for years - red, white and amber.

    i would probably get the Daytime Red if it was me ... well, already got one, but i would have gotten two if i didn't already have a second 400R.

  17. #117
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    6
    I would have gone 400 if I didn't swap out bikes as frequently as I do. With one bike I would just leave it on there but I swap out between all 3 multiple times a week depending on my training calendar.

  18. #118
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    886
    Quote Originally Posted by vipergts831 View Post
    Excellent thanks a lot! Any option on a wireless front light? Will probably put the order in for both tomorrow. 300r looks really good.
    make sure to read my post here:

    starting all over again from scratch - Page 5

    as for wireless front lights of course - there are many. i thought you wanted a helmet light. the Gloworm X2 V3 is a great helmet light.

    wireless front lights for commuting are designed for bar use.

    here is a thread that already deals with this:

    Help me find a head light for my new commute?

    OK, i think i can't contribute any more time to this, plus i already told you everything you need to know.

    If i were you i would take a few days to think it over and not order anything tomorrow.

    300R vs RZ8 trade off is squarely this: 300R has 12 hours run time but narrower beam, while RZ8 has wide beam but 4 hours of run time. both are bright but not as bright as 400R. the RZ8 puts out much more light than 300R but the 300R puts that light in a focused beam while RZ8 spills it all over the place.

    OK that's it. now you're on your own. best of luck !

  19. #119
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    886
    Quote Originally Posted by vipergts831 View Post
    Excellent thanks a lot! Any option on a wireless front light? Will probably put the order in for both tomorrow. 300r looks really good.
    one more thing that's important. you need to remove RZ8 every single time to charge it because USB port is inside. and you need to apply vaseline every time to the cap to put it back on. this is time consuming and messy. with 300R you just plug the USB cable in while it's still on the bike. this is is a major disadvantage of RZ8.

  20. #120
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by androgen View Post
    make sure to read my post here:

    starting all over again from scratch - Page 5

    as for wireless front lights of course - there are many. i thought you wanted a helmet light. the Gloworm X2 V3 is a great helmet light.

    wireless front lights for commuting are designed for bar use.

    here is a thread that already deals with this:

    Help me find a head light for my new commute?

    OK, i think i can't contribute any more time to this, plus i already told you everything you need to know.

    If i were you i would take a few days to think it over and not order anything tomorrow.

    300R vs RZ8 trade off is squarely this: 300R has 12 hours run time but narrower beam, while RZ8 has wide beam but 4 hours of run time. both are bright but not as bright as 400R. the RZ8 puts out much more light than 300R but the 300R puts that light in a focused beam while RZ8 spills it all over the place.

    OK that's it. now you're on your own. best of luck !
    Thanks Androgen for all of your help and insight! I did read that post which i responded to with this:

    Quote Originally Posted by vipergts831 View Post
    I would have gone 400 if I didn't swap out bikes as frequently as I do. With one bike I would just leave it on there but I swap out between all 3 multiple times a week depending on my training calendar.
    Quote Originally Posted by androgen View Post
    one more thing that's important. you need to remove RZ8 every single time to charge it because USB port is inside. and you need to apply vaseline every time to the cap to put it back on. this is time consuming and messy. with 300R you just plug the USB cable in while it's still on the bike. this is is a major disadvantage of RZ8.
    Thanks as well on this. I remember reading your struggles earlier in the thread with this issue. I will avoid the RZ8 as it is something i do not want to deal with every time it needs to be charged.

  21. #121
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1,631
    I have been using a 300R since they first came out, and I had a 400R before that. While the 400R is brighter in lumen count, the net effect by my eye is that there is not that much difference between the 300R and the 400R - your eye does not see light in a linear fashion, you have to double the light to really perceive a big difference. The 400R for daylight is probably a beast in it's own right.

    More importantly, the behavior of cars with the 300R and the 400R is not different. Both slow way down and go way around with both lights. However, with the 140R which I had before, the effect on driver behavior was not as pronounced. I ride in a predominantly rural setting where it's quite dark and on roads with little shoulder but lower amounts of traffic. Most of the cars are traveling at 50-60mph so being seen with adequate time is huge. In this context, the cars will typically slow way down and go into the other lane to avoid me. I still chuckle when it happens - it's biking magic.

    The main problem with the 300R (and the 400R) is that they really are fairly directional. On a road, this is not a problem since the angle of view is wide enough, but you cannot mount them on a bag and have them be effective. For that reason, having a 300R and a RZ8 is probably a good combination for rear/side lighting without going too overboard.

    For safety, I'd have to say that the rear light is probably 2-3X more important than the head light. Oncoming traffic is in the other lane and already removed from you. Putting aside seeing the road for now, you really only need enough light to avoid being left hooked. If you need visibility of the pavement, then you need more light.

    J.

  22. #122
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    886
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80 View Post
    I have been using a 300R since they first came out, and I had a 400R before that. While the 400R is brighter in lumen count, the net effect by my eye is that there is not that much difference between the 300R and the 400R - your eye does not see light in a linear fashion, you have to double the light to really perceive a big difference. The 400R for daylight is probably a beast in it's own right.

    More importantly, the behavior of cars with the 300R and the 400R is not different. Both slow way down and go way around with both lights. However, with the 140R which I had before, the effect on driver behavior was not as pronounced. I ride in a predominantly rural setting where it's quite dark and on roads with little shoulder but lower amounts of traffic. Most of the cars are traveling at 50-60mph so being seen with adequate time is huge. In this context, the cars will typically slow way down and go into the other lane to avoid me. I still chuckle when it happens - it's biking magic.

    The main problem with the 300R (and the 400R) is that they really are fairly directional. On a road, this is not a problem since the angle of view is wide enough, but you cannot mount them on a bag and have them be effective. For that reason, having a 300R and a RZ8 is probably a good combination for rear/side lighting without going too overboard.

    For safety, I'd have to say that the rear light is probably 2-3X more important than the head light. Oncoming traffic is in the other lane and already removed from you. Putting aside seeing the road for now, you really only need enough light to avoid being left hooked. If you need visibility of the pavement, then you need more light.

    J.
    i agree. the Dinotte has optimum beam width for a tail light - just enough to cover the width of the road, but not any wider than that which would be wasted light. i used to be upset when i got my first dinotte because it had so little side spill. but it's not the job of the tail light to provide side lighting - you can use other lights for that. as a tail light Dinotte is perfect.

    i said it before and i will say it again - people shouldn't try to get a tail light with so much spill that it acts as a side light - that's the logic of RZ8, and its wrong logic. buy a tail light and side lights separately - it will work better for both.

    the way roads are typically is mostly a square grid. most cars will be coming either from behind you, or from the side. only very few would be coming at an angle. so it makes more sense to have a light potined straight back, a light pointed straight left and one pointed straight right. if instead you try to get a light that projects in all directions you end up sending 3/4 of the light output either into the sky or onto the ground, and only a tiny fraction going to the back and sides.

    IMO a perfect setup is a 30 degree or so front light, a 30 degree or so rear light, and 150 degree or so side lights on each side.

  23. #123
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    886
    as for the front light, it is still important. the tail light is to prevent a fast moving car from hitting you from the back. the front light is to prevent you from hitting a stationary object - whether that object is a pothole, a child running after a ball, or some id1ot opening the door of a parked car without looking.

    in this case this case the subject may not be looking in your direction at all, but would still see a very powerful light ( most of the time ).

    you know i was once riding on MUP with all the lights at full blast ( it was pretty late, so there weren't really any people to bother ) and i had two ~ 80 year old women walking in front of me with their backs toward me, so i slowed down and i was curious at which point they would turn around to look at where the light is coming from ... i got to within about 3 feet of them and they still kept walking at their snail pace and they never did so much as twitch a facial muscle, let alone turn their heads .... so i just went around them using the grass on the side.

    that was a blow to my ego to be honest. i was under the impression my lights were so bright it was impossible not to notice me - but i underestimated the "abilities" of some people.

    so the front light is not for cars in oncoming traffic lane approaching you, but for anything and anybody that you are approaching.

    it could be a car just around the corner, where you can't see each other but you can see each other's light beams projecting onto scenery.

    it could also be a car in your own lane that is in front of you but stopped for a red light. if you try to go past that car it may suddenly make a right turn when the light goes green if it didn't see you.

    in this last scenario even if your lights are super bright the driver may simply assume that there is another car behind him, and still go for that right turn clipping you, not realizing that the vehicle is not actually behind him, but trying to go between him and the curb. on the other hand if your light is not only bright, but blinking ( say, 1500 lumen blink ) as you're approaching a stopped car from the back, the driver will realize that something out of the ordinary is happening and he will try to see what it is before making that turn ( unless he is a total moron ).

    a 1500 lumen blink would probably help with id1ots opening doors without looking too. however i would still rather just not be so close to parked cars that an opened door could reach me, because there are just too many id1ots.

    you can usually spot police car emergency lights at night even when they are behind your back. the light is so intense you notice the blinking light hitting the surfaces of objects around you and you can't help but turn around to find out what it is. the police emergency lights are strong enough to be visible from behind your back from half a block away most of the time. that would be a great safety measure to have provided you could get away with it.


  24. #124
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    6
    Androgen were you riding up Riverside drive in Manhattan tonight? Someone with your light setup passed me as i was going south and said nice light!

  25. #125
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    886
    Quote Originally Posted by vipergts831 View Post
    Androgen were you riding up Riverside drive in Manhattan tonight? Someone with your light setup passed me as i was going south and said nice light!
    i was on Hudson River Greenway about 2 hours ago. i went from Brooklyn Bridge to Central Park and back. while on the Greenway i was using only headlights and bar end lights, so i was using the bar light and two helmet lights ( on low ).

    i use Sound Isolating Sennheiser In-Ear headphones playing music, so i don't really hear what people say unless they scream.

    when i started out with the setup i first rode without headphones because i wanted to know what kind of comments i will get, but once i got the idea what people say i started using the headphones and listening to music, so if you said anything chances are i didn't hear it.

    however if you meant to say that *I* told you nice light then it was somebody else. i don't remember saying that to anybody. usually if somebody says something and i can't make out what they say i might reply with "thanks" but i don't think i ever told anybody "nice light" ...

Page 5 of 6 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. My Session 88 & Scratch Air 8
    By shimonet in forum Trek
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 09-27-2012, 02:07 AM
  2. Stanchion scratch fix?
    By slimat99 in forum All Mountain
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 08-28-2011, 11:37 PM
  3. Scratch Air 9
    By Reticrich in forum Trek
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 08-10-2011, 05:21 PM
  4. '11 Scratch Air
    By greasemeat in forum Trek
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 06-04-2011, 12:41 PM
  5. Scratch
    By jeffus in forum Trek
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 03-04-2011, 12:59 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •