Page 4 of 6 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 LastLast
Results 76 to 100 of 131
  1. #76
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    874
    MonkeyLectric M232 Installed ( 2 on each wheel ) :

    there is now a total of 12 AA Eneloops powering the spoke lights ( 3 in series on each light ). that's 28 watt-hours of battery capacity on the spoke lights. it would be 38 watt-hours with a high capacity AA rechargeables, but considering that there is about ~ 10 hours of battery run time on high, i didn't see the point in going with high capacity batteries in this application.


  2. #77
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    874
    here is the new video i made yesterday. it shows all the lights i'm using right now including the Dosun D400, 4 X MonkeyLectric M232 and 2 X Seca 1700:


  3. #78
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    874
    decided against adding any more blinkys at this time. no money, and too many potential problems with installation and blinding people.

    ordered another Light & Motion 6 cell battery and 1.5 amp charger.

    damn what a ripoff. i wish i had gotten the Enduro to begin with. battery plus charger costs almost as much as the whole light system! i was an idiot to think 1.5 hours would be enough !

    so anyway, this should upgrade my run time from 3 hours to 4.5 hours. i only really need 3 hours, but that leaves me no reserve. with 4.5 hours i should have reserve plus i should have symmetry - same batteries on both lights. up until this point i was using a 6 cell on one light and two 3 cells on the other. with the extra battery i will have more options, and less switching batteries.

    with the extra batteries i should be able to:

    1 - take 2 x 3 cell for 1.5 hours
    2 - take 2 x 6 cell for 3 hours
    3 - take 2 x 6 cell plus 2 x 3 cell for 4.5 hours

    can't wait ... of course as always i used free shipping so it will probably take forever LOL

    EDIT: SENT E-MAILS TO THE TWO STORES TO REQUEST CANCELLATION OF THE ORDER because i discovered a way to mount 400R to the back of the helmet !

  4. #79
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    223
    Quote Originally Posted by androgen View Post
    decided against adding any more blinkys at this time. no money, and too many potential problems with installation and blinding people.

    ordered another Light & Motion 6 cell battery and 1.5 amp charger.

    damn what a ripoff. i wish i had gotten the Enduro to begin with. battery plus charger costs almost as much as the whole light system! i was an idiot to think 1.5 hours would be enough !

    so anyway, this should upgrade my run time from 3 hours to 4.5 hours. i only really need 3 hours, but that leaves me no reserve. with 4.5 hours i should have reserve plus i should have symmetry - same batteries on both lights. up until this point i was using a 6 cell on one light and two 3 cells on the other. with the extra battery i will have more options, and less switching batteries.

    with the extra batteries i should be able to:

    1 - take 2 x 3 cell for 1.5 hours
    2 - take 2 x 6 cell for 3 hours
    3 - take 2 x 6 cell plus 2 x 3 cell for 4.5 hours

    can't wait ... of course as always i used free shipping so it will probably take forever LOL

    EDIT: SENT E-MAILS TO THE TWO STORES TO REQUEST CANCELLATION OF THE ORDER because i discovered a way to mount 400R to the back of the helmet !
    So are you going to order the 400r daytime instead of the additional batteries?

  5. #80
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1,625
    If you were trying not to blind anyone, you didn't meet that goal.

    J.

  6. #81
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    874
    Quote Originally Posted by cue003 View Post
    So are you going to order the 400r daytime instead of the additional batteries?
    i will try to cancel the batteries, then if at that point i'm not homeless yet i will try to order the daytime red.

    the daytime red should increase safety at dusk.

    at night regular 400R is bright enough i think.

    even if i never go through with any of this i could still make a video of the 400R on the helmet just to test if it would be effective or not in that location.

    we'll see what happens ...

  7. #82
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MaximusHQ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    583
    Androgen nice job on the video and your bike looks like a carnival on wheels. As for runtime, do you really use full power all the time on your lights? Medium power should be more than enough for most situations. I usually can go for 3-4 rides between charges and my rides last close to 2 hours each. I adjust my lights power level as needed. If I ran on full power I would have to charge them after each ride. My bar light and helmet light combined are 3,000 lumens and it is rare that I need full power on both. Usually about half of that is plenty and many times I get by fine with about 500 lumens. For the most part I run an older Lupine Betty on the bars and a Gloworm X2 on the helmet. I also have a spare Gloworm X 2, a Magicshine, and a Lupine Wilma that don't get much use, but I think I might mount all my lights one night for the heck of it and all combined they should be approaching 6,000 lumens.

    There is no doubt that you are extremely visible from any angle, and completely blinding from the front. I particularly like the red zone mounted to the helmet for all around visibility.

  8. #83
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    874
    Quote Originally Posted by MaximusHQ View Post
    Androgen nice job on the video and your bike looks like a carnival on wheels. As for runtime, do you really use full power all the time on your lights? Medium power should be more than enough for most situations. I usually can go for 3-4 rides between charges and my rides last close to 2 hours each. I adjust my lights power level as needed. If I ran on full power I would have to charge them after each ride. My bar light and helmet light combined are 3,000 lumens and it is rare that I need full power on both. Usually about half of that is plenty and many times I get by fine with about 500 lumens. For the most part I run an older Lupine Betty on the bars and a Gloworm X2 on the helmet. I also have a spare Gloworm X 2, a Magicshine, and a Lupine Wilma that don't get much use, but I think I might mount all my lights one night for the heck of it and all combined they should be approaching 6,000 lumens.

    There is no doubt that you are extremely visible from any angle, and completely blinding from the front. I particularly like the red zone mounted to the helmet for all around visibility.
    why would you not want to recharge the batteries after every ride ? laziness or trying to increase longevity of the batteries ?

    i only start to lower the output if i think there is any chance to run out of battery life on the ride. so for example my last night ride was 3 hours on 3 hour battery life and i ran on full power for about 2 hours with the remainder or lower power. i also reduce power or turn off completely on narrow paths such as bridges, and whatever other situations call for it.

    the only light where i feel i have "enough" brightness is the Dinotte 400R at night. on all other lights i wish i had more.

    but that's part of my personality though. i cannot stand moderation. it just bothers me.

  9. #84
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MaximusHQ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    583
    Well I have gotten 6 years out of my Lupine battery packs and they are still going so I think that the way you can extend the battery life quite a bit by only using the amount of output that each situation calls for. You know how much it costs to replace a Lupine battery so if the batteries last longer then all the better. For me to use full output I have to be moving very fast down a hill to feel it's necessary otherwise it seems like a waste of battery. One thing that makes it easier to adjust the power level often is that my Lupines and Gloworms all have external switches that can mount in easier to reach locations either on the bar or helmet. It would be annoying for me now to have to use a light with the power button built into the light head itself after being spoiled by the external switches that I am so used to.

  10. #85
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MaximusHQ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    583
    I just remembered another reason why I don't like running full power sometimes is because once you do your night vision gets messed up and you can't see anything outside of what your own lights are illuminating. If it is a full moon out I enjoy riding with minimal lighting so that I can see what is outside of my lighting also.

  11. #86
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    874
    Quote Originally Posted by MaximusHQ View Post
    Well I have gotten 6 years out of my Lupine battery packs and they are still going so I think that the way you can extend the battery life quite a bit by only using the amount of output that each situation calls for. You know how much it costs to replace a Lupine battery so if the batteries last longer then all the better. For me to use full output I have to be moving very fast down a hill to feel it's necessary otherwise it seems like a waste of battery. One thing that makes it easier to adjust the power level often is that my Lupines and Gloworms all have external switches that can mount in easier to reach locations either on the bar or helmet. It would be annoying for me now to have to use a light with the power button built into the light head itself after being spoiled by the external switches that I am so used to.
    Lupines do seem to last from what i am hearing. I guess i haven't been in this business long enough to be thinking long-term like you, yet.

    The features on the Seca are admittedly spartan. A remote switch is one of the many features that Seca is missing. NiteRider is better than Light & Motion when it comes to features, but NR lights tend to be overweight. Lupine is lightweight and feature packed but the beam is less optimized than either L&M or NiteRider. Gotta take a hit somewhere

    anyway, i'm out to sleep.

  12. #87
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1,625
    Quote Originally Posted by MaximusHQ View Post
    Well I have gotten 6 years out of my Lupine battery packs and they are still going so I think that the way you can extend the battery life quite a bit by only using the amount of output that each situation calls for. You know how much it costs to replace a Lupine battery so if the batteries last longer then all the better. For me to use full output I have to be moving very fast down a hill to feel it's necessary otherwise it seems like a waste of battery. One thing that makes it easier to adjust the power level often is that my Lupines and Gloworms all have external switches that can mount in easier to reach locations either on the bar or helmet. It would be annoying for me now to have to use a light with the power button built into the light head itself after being spoiled by the external switches that I am so used to.
    True to a certain extent but I think with bike lights it's more the old age that gets them. The cheaper cells can probably only take 300 or so charges and the better ones can probably take 1000 (i.e. Lupine). For me, with Lupine, I wouldn't make 1000 cycles in 6 years so it's moot.

    I was just reading an article about the Tesla car that burned up that led me to another article on their battery. They found that the can prolong the life of the battery by not discharging below 50% and then tapering the charge heavily above 90% - in other words, not hitting either full discharge (anywhere close) or slamming it full of charge. That argues for more frequent charging - but it's a bummer for an electric car since it's like only being able to drive your car between half and 7/8ths full tank of gas.

    Batteries are the consumables of lights. A Li-ion battery starts dying the day it's manufactured. Most of them die of old age, I think.

    J.

  13. #88
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    874
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80 View Post
    True to a certain extent but I think with bike lights it's more the old age that gets them. The cheaper cells can probably only take 300 or so charges and the better ones can probably take 1000 (i.e. Lupine). For me, with Lupine, I wouldn't make 1000 cycles in 6 years so it's moot.

    I was just reading an article about the Tesla car that burned up that led me to another article on their battery. They found that the can prolong the life of the battery by not discharging below 50% and then tapering the charge heavily above 90% - in other words, not hitting either full discharge (anywhere close) or slamming it full of charge. That argues for more frequent charging - but it's a bummer for an electric car since it's like only being able to drive your car between half and 7/8ths full tank of gas.

    Batteries are the consumables of lights. A Li-ion battery starts dying the day it's manufactured. Most of them die of old age, I think.

    J.
    good information. yes. that's one of the reasons i always charge them back up after a ride is that keeping them discharged is something the manual warns against.

  14. #89
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    874
    Quote Originally Posted by MaximusHQ View Post
    I just remembered another reason why I don't like running full power sometimes is because once you do your night vision gets messed up and you can't see anything outside of what your own lights are illuminating. If it is a full moon out I enjoy riding with minimal lighting so that I can see what is outside of my lighting also.
    what this is saying to me is that you want a light with wider spill.

    NR Pro 3600 probably has the widest usable beam. you probably wouldn't need to see anything outside of its beam.

    the Seca has an even wider spill, but it's not really usable for illumination i think - instead it is very useful for being seen. if you watch my last video you can tell that the Seca is seen from almost 360 degrees, and is quite visible for more than 180 degrees - that's due to the convex shape of the front polycarbonate piece that wraps around the sides of the light.

    this side-visibility feature on the Seca was one of the features that sealed the deal for me for the Seca as a road / city light. however as i said, i don't think the side light is bright enough for SEEING with, only for being seen.

    the NR Pro 3600 though is an exceptionally wide light, yet still throws with the best of them.

  15. #90
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1,625
    androgen - i was noticing in your video that the light on the bars seems to have two distinct parts of the beam - the larger hot spot then a dark line and then another beam close in to your front tire. Is that the Seca's beam or is there something else that is causing that?

    J.

  16. #91
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    874
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80 View Post
    androgen - i was noticing in your video that the light on the bars seems to have two distinct parts of the beam - the larger hot spot then a dark line and then another beam close in to your front tire. Is that the Seca's beam or is there something else that is causing that?

    J.
    the way i did the video it should be pretty clear that it's the Dosun doing this. i have a part of the video with only the Dosun and a part with only the Seca so if you watched the video more carefully you wouldn't need to ask this

    that said the dark line in Dosun beam pattern is mostly on the sides of the beam.

    when watching the Seca beam in my video keep in mind that i am using two of them deliberately aimed slightly to the side each to make the beam wider. there is probably 5-10 degrees between centerlines of the two Secas the way they are aimed. a single Seca by itself is smooth, but two are even smoother, and significantly wider.

    Dosun Beam ( Image by Dosun ) :


  17. #92
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    874
    watch specifically starting at 21 minute 08 seconds mark when i alternate between Dosun and Seca to see the difference in pattern.


  18. #93
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MaximusHQ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    583
    Quote Originally Posted by androgen View Post
    what this is saying to me is that you want a light with wider spill.

    NR Pro 3600 probably has the widest usable beam. you probably wouldn't need to see anything outside of its beam.

    the Seca has an even wider spill, but it's not really usable for illumination i think - instead it is very useful for being seen. if you watch my last video you can tell that the Seca is seen from almost 360 degrees, and is quite visible for more than 180 degrees - that's due to the convex shape of the front polycarbonate piece that wraps around the sides of the light.

    this side-visibility feature on the Seca was one of the features that sealed the deal for me for the Seca as a road / city light. however as i said, i don't think the side light is bright enough for SEEING with, only for being seen.

    the NR Pro 3600 though is an exceptionally wide light, yet still throws with the best of them.

    I have seen the NR 3600 beam shots and it does have a pretty good beam pattern. It's not the light for me though. I have owned two NR lights and the quality is very average. The Betty light I have has a 22 degree lens and has more emphasis on throw than spill which I don't mind because my Gloworm X2 has a lot of spill and fills in where the Betty can't. Like you, I realize there isn't one perfect light out there and it helps to have one light with a wider pattern and one with a lot of punch so that they compliment each other. I see your point about having more spill on my lights, but still it is sometimes better to know what is going on outside of my beam so I prefer not to crank up the lumens if I don't have to.

    Johnj80, In using my Lupine batteries I have never actually seen a red Led indicating that the battery is just about completely empty, I only have gotten to the point where a yellow Led appears which in the manual says that it is a warning that a significant amount of battery has been used. The exact amount I am unsure of. At this point if you are on full power it will kick down to the next lowest setting which is 40% on my light and this will still give me a significant amount of runtime on this setting. At least an hour at this level. Anyway I never store them fully charged for long times in the winter months and never completely deplete them either so I guess that may help them to last longer. The newer Lupine batteries have the nice indicators on them which is a nice touch so when I need to finally replace mine that will be kind of like a cool new feature for me.

  19. #94
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    874
    Quote Originally Posted by MaximusHQ View Post
    The newer Lupine batteries have the nice indicators on them which is a nice touch so when I need to finally replace mine that will be kind of like a cool new feature for me.
    i wish i had that. the Seca doesn't even have a good indicator on the light body itself ( NiteRider Pro does ) my Milwaukee lithium drill has lupine-like battery indicators on the batteries ... but my lights don't have that

    the battery life indicator ( or lack thereof ) is one of my main beefs with the Seca. some of the other ones are the long cable ( versus short one plus extension cord ), lack of quick release mechanism, and that rubber band mount system which while better than rubber rings on Lupine / Magicshine is nowhere near what comes on Exposure or NiteRider Pro.

    the reason i still hold Seca in high regard is because none of these flaws are design flaws - they are all cost cutting measures. i would rather have a product that has cut corners than a product that has made dumb mistakes. in other words i would rather have a product made by cynical people than by incompetent people.

  20. #95
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    874

    Re: starting all over again from scratch :)

    Ok so dinotte says it shipped the daytime red, although it looks like I will not have means to track it, but dinotte is only 5 hours drive from here so I think it should be here by end of the week.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk now Free

  21. #96
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    874
    received Camelbak Mule to replace my TheNorthFace Klamath 8.

    i basically ran out of room for batteries in the old pack.



    when i opened the shipping box my first thought was "WTF it's the same size as my old pack !" then i picked it up and it weighed even less. but when you start to fill it up you realize that that internal space in the Mule is much greater indeed. the reservoir is also much larger - 3 liters versus 2 liters.

    so yeah like i said they look the same size when they're empty, but when you start stuffing them the North Face is flat like an envelope and will not take much. but the Mule expands and expands and has about double the capacity despite being essentially same size and what seems like lower weight.

    the North Face does use thicker material so it is probably more durable, but it's probably excessive. the thinner material on the Mule probably strikes closer to optimum compromise between weight and durability.

    considering that North Face was a lower volume, cheaper pack it had better organization IMO than Camelbak. the Mule can use some improvement in this area - unlike the North Face, the Mule is lacking in the organization department.

    but Organization is at the end of the day a luxury, and volume / space is a necessity.

    since i was happy with the quality of the North Face i tried to get a bigger North Face to replace it but i couldn't find one that i thought had enough internal volume. the volume in the Mule appears to be just right for my needs.

    i also like that it has a larger ( taller ) reservoir because that way i don't need to fill it up all the way so hopefully it will allow it to stay flatter on my back.

    i haven't tested it on the bike though. i just filled it up with some water and stuff, tried putting it on, drinking - so far so good.

    one other area where i really liked the North Face was a magnetic clip for the hose - that was neat as hell. i just loved using it the Mule doesn't have any clip at all - it just has a shorter hose that just hangs there. this is a bummer ... i would have much preferred the longer hose of the North Face with a magnetic clip than a short hose of Mule without a clip. i will need to ride with that pack to see how much of a problem it is in practice.

  22. #97
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    2,300
    Wrong forum. This is not the pack review area.

  23. #98
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    874
    so this is the helmet setup i will be evaluating. that is a regular 400R on there.

    the Daytime Red is on the seatpost.

    i just tried putting it on my head - it is well balanced - but there is just no getting around it - it is heavy. i'm not sure how it will work on the road, but certainly you would not be able to use anywhere close to this weight on the trail. it simply wouldn't stay on your head.


  24. #99
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    223
    They look like they are mounted so close together that you could have probably gotten by with a single rz8 running along the top of the helmet.

  25. #100
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MaximusHQ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    583
    Yes Androgen you only need one red zone 8. So send the other one directly to me.

Page 4 of 6 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. My Session 88 & Scratch Air 8
    By shimonet in forum Trek
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 09-27-2012, 01:07 AM
  2. Stanchion scratch fix?
    By slimat99 in forum All Mountain
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 08-28-2011, 10:37 PM
  3. Scratch Air 9
    By Reticrich in forum Trek
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 08-10-2011, 04:21 PM
  4. '11 Scratch Air
    By greasemeat in forum Trek
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 06-04-2011, 11:41 AM
  5. Scratch
    By jeffus in forum Trek
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 03-04-2011, 11:59 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •