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  1. #51
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    Ordered a second Seca 1700 Race, identical to the first, from the same store ( TreeFortBikes ). Will attempt to put both of them on the Helmet, see what happens.

  2. #52
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    one cool feature of MonkeyLectric is the ability to choose the color scheme. by default it is set to "random" so it shows different rainbow colors as you ride, but i have now set mine to violet-blue because i feel that color stands out the best against predominantly yellow lights at night. it doesn't look as pretty as when set to random, but i don't want to look like a disco anyway.

  3. #53
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    just placed an order for a 6 cell light and motion battery and a light and motion charger appropriate for that battery.

    so instead of having two Seca 1700 lights with 1.5 hour burn time each ( 3 cell battery each ) now i should have one Seca 1700 light with 3 hour burn time ( 6 cell battery ) and one with 1.5 + 1.5 hour burn time ( two 3 cell batteries, which i will need to switch mid-way through the ride ).

    so the effective burn time on both Seca 1700 that i have on the helmet now should be 3 hours.

    also all 3 batteries should charge in 6 hours because each one will be on its own charger.

    can't wait. it was pissing me off having to run the lights at 1/2 power to extend run time.

  4. #54
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    Can you tell me what the seca 1700 weighs with 6 cell battery and mounts? How about the head by itself with helmet mount?

  5. #55
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    With the purchase of the 6 cell does that put you at about the price of a seca 2000 enduro? But then again that would only be one 2000 lumen enduro... Would you still desire 2 2000 lumen enduros on your helmet?

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by cue003 View Post
    Can you tell me what the seca 1700 weighs with 6 cell battery and mounts? How about the head by itself with helmet mount?
    Light & Motion Seca 1700 ? 2013 Mtbr Lights Shootout | Mountain Bike Review

    MTBR already weighed everything. except the 6 cell battery, which i don't have yet, but i assume it will weigh about 80% more than a 3 cell battery.

  7. #57
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    Thanks for the link and info.

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by cue003 View Post
    With the purchase of the 6 cell does that put you at about the price of a seca 2000 enduro? But then again that would only be one 2000 lumen enduro... Would you still desire 2 2000 lumen enduros on your helmet?
    i paid $235 for a 6 cell battery and charger ( $171 for Battery, $55 Charger, $9 Shipping ) and $319 for each 1700 Race. so altogether i paid $873 and this is total price including any shipping or tax.

    this gives me 6 hours of run time on both lights ( once i actually receive it that is )

    by comparison 2 X Seca 2000 Enduro would have cost 1,138 ( 2 x $569 ) which is about $250 more, but it would be slightly brighter and i would not have to deal with switching batteries mid-ride, as i would have 2 X 6 cell batteries instead of 2 x 3 cell plus 1 x 6 cell.

    very soon for about what 2 x Seca 2000 Enduro costs now you will be able to pick up a 4500 Lumen Lupine Betty. in my opinion 2 x Seca 2000 will provide much better light, and will be able to maintain its output at much lower speeds, however the Betty will have better features such as wireless switch, battery life indicators on the battery etc. both solutions have their cons and pros IMO.

    i don't know how much brighter the 2000 is compared to 1700. when i have two 1700 on full power i feel like i'm close to where i need to be, but not quite there. i doubt two 2000 would be significantly different.

    the beam of the 1700 is much wider than of 1400 but is still narrow in its brightest part. we will probably need to wait for something like Seca 3000 before the beam is wide enough. 2 x Seca 3000 would probably be just right. this would be the equivalent of HID car headlights. as it is right now 2 x Seca 1700 is just as bright as car HID headlights, but the beam is much narrower. it would be nice if they could keep the same brightness of the beam in the center but make the bright part of the beam 50% wider - as i said this would probably require the output of each light to go up to about 3000.

  9. #59
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    Seca 3000... that starts to bring you back around to the light you had previously in the NiteRider 3600. that would be a ton of light to have 2 of those. With all that bright light on your helmet do you have issues with bugs/nats/etc being attracted to the light?

    You mentioned you noticed a big difference between the 1400 and 1700 so it may be realistic to see a similiar change in output and beam pattern from the 1700 to the seca 2000. Then times that by 2 and you may be much closer to your requirement while still having good slow speed heat management.

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by cue003 View Post
    Seca 3000... that starts to bring you back around to the light you had previously in the NiteRider 3600. that would be a ton of light to have 2 of those. With all that bright light on your helmet do you have issues with bugs/nats/etc being attracted to the light?

    You mentioned you noticed a big difference between the 1400 and 1700 so it may be realistic to see a similiar change in output and beam pattern from the 1700 to the seca 2000. Then times that by 2 and you may be much closer to your requirement while still having good slow speed heat management.
    Seca 1400 measured about 1200 on MTBR while Seca 1700 measured 1800. even if 2000 measures at 2200 ( which is highly unlikely ) it still would be only 20% difference versus 50% difference between 1700 and 1400.

    as for the NiteRider - yes i had a 3600 lumen niterider and now i have 3600 lumen Seca ( 2 x 1800 measured lumen lights ) so actually i do have the same lumens now as with the niterider, but it doesn't look nearly as bright. i think the difference has to come down to the beam pattern. the NR used the lumens to blind you and everybody else, while the Seca uses them to make you see better, farther. the NR appears brighter, but 2 X Seca on the helmet is much more useful than 1 X NR on the bar. at least in the city. in the woods the NR on the bar will probably be great, because it sprays light in all directions which is what you want if you're going slow on a twisty path. but if you're going fast on a straight road you want the narrower beam of the Seca.

    as for the bugs, yes they are attracted to the light, but as i ride in the city it is not a big problem. it maybe a problem if your trail is in an area with a lot of bugs i guess.

    one unexpected downside to a powerful helmet light you see the air itself light up and obstruct the view somewhat. it doesn't happen so much with a bar light because the light is not so close to your eyes.

    also street signs that are reflective look so bright sometimes it is almost impossible to tell what they say because of how bright they look - once again - that's because the light is so close to the eyes so the new, efficient prismatic reflectors look extremely bright. on the other hand you will never miss a sign this way, a prismatic one anyway.

    i do feel that 2 X Seca 1700 run cooler than 1 X NR Pro 3600. the NR Pro and Lupine lights push the limits in terms of cooling - they barely have enough cooling for their power, whereas the Seca seems to take it easy - it seems to have plenty of cooling for the amount of heat it generates.

    i think what happened is that with each generation NR and Lupine upped the watts in effort to win the Lumen race whereas the Seca has kept watts the same or even lowered them so as a result the Seca doesn't have anywhere near the Lumens of the other big boys, but it runs cooler. basically the Seca doesn't compete on Lumens whereas NR and Lupine do.

  11. #61
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    I have generally found that the proper ratio for helmet light to bar light is about 1:2. So, for a 3000 lumen bar light, I'd want a 1500 lumen helmet light. I also prefer the helmet light to have a tighter beam than the bar light.

    For riding in the summer, I do not like to have a helmet light on very high. I can't stand it when I "see the air" as androgen says. I think it causes a lot of detail to be lost. If you ride where it's dusty or where the humidity is high, then I think this is a problem. Those environments are generally mutually exclusive so if you don't have one, you have the other. I think it would be very difficult to find a place where this isn't an issue with big lumens. I didn't find it to be much of a problem at about 750 lumens but at 1500 lumens it is a distinct problem.

    Bugs are a big issue here. I find that when I ride in late summer with a bright helmet light, I get an excessive number of bug hits on the glasses. It's not pleasant at all. Until the bugs start to drop off, I tend to either forgo the helmet light or keep it on low in comparison to the bar light. Helmet lights really cause the insects to key in on your face and head. Hint: do not ride with your mouth open.

    What I'm running now is a 2400 lumen Lupine Wilma on the bars and a 750 Lupine Piko on the helmet although for riding in the dark so far this summer, I've left the helmet light off entirely due to bugs. In the next several weeks the peak of the bug season should be gone and I'm looking hard at going to the 1200 lumen Lupine Piko for the helmet light since the 750 Piko is kind of lost in the Wilma beam.

    If anyone is interested, I have a 1500 lumen Wilma that I'd part with (light only).

    J.

  12. #62
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    Battery and Charger shipped. Tracking information estimates delivery on the 18th ( next Wed ).

  13. #63
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    Just received my new 6 cell Light & Motion battery and 1.5 Amp charger. It's charging up. I actually ran out of space on the surge protector i'm using for my bike lights:



    the new charger is too big to fit in that space that was left, so i had to put this one on a different power strip:



    theoretically this charger should be able to charge this cell up in 4 hours. the chargers that come with the Race model are only 0.5 Amp, but they also only need to charge a 3 cell, and they are rated to do it in 6 hours.

    i just ordered some power strip liberators:


    Amazon.com: Ziotek ZT1212518 Power Strip Liberator Plus with Pass Through, 5-Pack: Home Improvement

    so that i would be able to actually plug all of my bike light chargers into the same power strip. hopefully that will help me keep track of things.

  14. #64
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    Is it really necessary to bump your threads to the top of the forum with pictures of chargers plugged into the power strip?

  15. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by androgen View Post
    I actually ran out of space on the surge protector i'm using for my bike lights so i had to put this one on a different power strip.
    Why not to connect one to the another?

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by varider View Post
    Is it really necessary to bump your threads to the top of the forum with pictures of chargers plugged into the power strip?
    thank you for bumping my thread !

  17. #67
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    received an extra surge protector and two packs of ziotek liberators ( they are surprisingly well made )

    was thus able to once again consolidate all of the bike chargers in one area

    i organized it so that all of the lights that charge while on the bike plug into the yellow surge protector, and all of the lights / batteries that are from the helmet plug into the white surge protector. also the AA and 18650 cell chargers will plug into the white surge protector.

    the black nitecore 18650 charger i don't actually use for the bike, its for the flashlight, but it was a logical place for it anyway.

    that big white bottle is vaseline for the cap on Red Zone 8, and the paper towel is to wipe excess off ...



    actually there is still one other charger i use for the monkeylectric AA cells, but because it does double duty also charging the cell for my wireless mouse it will stay in its original location:



    also since my hydration pack is now strapped to my helmet with a bunch of wires ( night AND day ) i needed something else for the phone, so i got a maxpedition versipack octa fanny pack:



    i already rode with it - i really like it - its handy ! i will definitley use it next time i ride. its much faster / easier to access than the hydration pack, and it provides plenty of extra organization for your various items.

    yes i could use a frame bag, but i wanted the phone on my body so i could plug in a headset and not be tethered to the bike.

  18. #68
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    All I can say, is OMG!

    J.

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by androgen View Post
    ...also since my hydration pack is now strapped to my helmet with a bunch of wires ( night AND day ) i needed something else for the phone, so i got a maxpedition versipack octa fanny pack....

    ...I could use a frame bag, but i wanted the phone on my body so i could plug in a headset and not be tethered to the bike.
    Well I guess this makes it official; You are now "The Lord of the Wired Helmet". As I write this I remove my tin-foiled cap, bow my knee and utter the words, "I am not worthy oh luminous one". Shine on with more insight into the new sport you have created, "Glow-biking".

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Well I guess this makes it official; You are now "The Lord of the Wired Helmet". As I write this I remove my tin-foiled cap, bow my knee and utter the words, "I am not worthy oh luminous one". Shine on with more insight into the new sport you have created, "Glow-biking".
    never underestimate the power of the helmet !


  21. #71
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    Can we get a picture of this set up on androgen?

    J.

  22. #72
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    ordered 2 more MonkeyLectric M232 spoke lights and a 8 pack of Eneloop rechargeables.

    i am disappointed with Bike After Dark Fireball spoke lights ( don't hold charge, run down too fast ) and will be removing them.

    will run MonkeyLectric M232 on both wheels, 2 on each for balance.

    i considered whether to go with Eneloop or Eneloop XX and decided to go with regular Eneloop as it will provide enough run time in this application and has 1500 recharge cycles versus 500 for Eneloop XX.

    MonkeyLectric M232 is $59 right now from Amazon. was $75 when i got the first pair. there is a lot of design and engineering that you will get for that $59 ! problem is that you need 4 of them for a full bike setup, plus 12 AA Ni-Mh cells, plus a good AA charger, so let's say the total will be $300 to outfit your bike properly with MonkeyLights.

    and even though there are cheaper ways to get good side visibility, like NiteFlux Red Zone 8 which is $150 there is really nothing like spoke lights. nothing else will make you instantly recognizable as a bicycle the way spoke lights will.

  23. #73
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    Picture please.

    J.

  24. #74
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    just received a box from Amazon: my second pair of MonkeyLectric M232s and a 8 pack of Sanyo Eneloops to power them:



    will be removing Bike After Dark Fireball spoke lights as soon as i have some help to install the MonkeyLectric because it does help to have extra hands for this.

  25. #75
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    Fireballs are Removed. I made a video "review" but it's not a real review - just a video of me removing them while talking about why i'm removing them and why i would not recommend them to anybody.


  26. #76
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    MonkeyLectric M232 Installed ( 2 on each wheel ) :

    there is now a total of 12 AA Eneloops powering the spoke lights ( 3 in series on each light ). that's 28 watt-hours of battery capacity on the spoke lights. it would be 38 watt-hours with a high capacity AA rechargeables, but considering that there is about ~ 10 hours of battery run time on high, i didn't see the point in going with high capacity batteries in this application.


  27. #77
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    here is the new video i made yesterday. it shows all the lights i'm using right now including the Dosun D400, 4 X MonkeyLectric M232 and 2 X Seca 1700:


  28. #78
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    decided against adding any more blinkys at this time. no money, and too many potential problems with installation and blinding people.

    ordered another Light & Motion 6 cell battery and 1.5 amp charger.

    damn what a ripoff. i wish i had gotten the Enduro to begin with. battery plus charger costs almost as much as the whole light system! i was an idiot to think 1.5 hours would be enough !

    so anyway, this should upgrade my run time from 3 hours to 4.5 hours. i only really need 3 hours, but that leaves me no reserve. with 4.5 hours i should have reserve plus i should have symmetry - same batteries on both lights. up until this point i was using a 6 cell on one light and two 3 cells on the other. with the extra battery i will have more options, and less switching batteries.

    with the extra batteries i should be able to:

    1 - take 2 x 3 cell for 1.5 hours
    2 - take 2 x 6 cell for 3 hours
    3 - take 2 x 6 cell plus 2 x 3 cell for 4.5 hours

    can't wait ... of course as always i used free shipping so it will probably take forever LOL

    EDIT: SENT E-MAILS TO THE TWO STORES TO REQUEST CANCELLATION OF THE ORDER because i discovered a way to mount 400R to the back of the helmet !

  29. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by androgen View Post
    decided against adding any more blinkys at this time. no money, and too many potential problems with installation and blinding people.

    ordered another Light & Motion 6 cell battery and 1.5 amp charger.

    damn what a ripoff. i wish i had gotten the Enduro to begin with. battery plus charger costs almost as much as the whole light system! i was an idiot to think 1.5 hours would be enough !

    so anyway, this should upgrade my run time from 3 hours to 4.5 hours. i only really need 3 hours, but that leaves me no reserve. with 4.5 hours i should have reserve plus i should have symmetry - same batteries on both lights. up until this point i was using a 6 cell on one light and two 3 cells on the other. with the extra battery i will have more options, and less switching batteries.

    with the extra batteries i should be able to:

    1 - take 2 x 3 cell for 1.5 hours
    2 - take 2 x 6 cell for 3 hours
    3 - take 2 x 6 cell plus 2 x 3 cell for 4.5 hours

    can't wait ... of course as always i used free shipping so it will probably take forever LOL

    EDIT: SENT E-MAILS TO THE TWO STORES TO REQUEST CANCELLATION OF THE ORDER because i discovered a way to mount 400R to the back of the helmet !
    So are you going to order the 400r daytime instead of the additional batteries?

  30. #80
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    If you were trying not to blind anyone, you didn't meet that goal.

    J.

  31. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by cue003 View Post
    So are you going to order the 400r daytime instead of the additional batteries?
    i will try to cancel the batteries, then if at that point i'm not homeless yet i will try to order the daytime red.

    the daytime red should increase safety at dusk.

    at night regular 400R is bright enough i think.

    even if i never go through with any of this i could still make a video of the 400R on the helmet just to test if it would be effective or not in that location.

    we'll see what happens ...

  32. #82
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    Androgen nice job on the video and your bike looks like a carnival on wheels. As for runtime, do you really use full power all the time on your lights? Medium power should be more than enough for most situations. I usually can go for 3-4 rides between charges and my rides last close to 2 hours each. I adjust my lights power level as needed. If I ran on full power I would have to charge them after each ride. My bar light and helmet light combined are 3,000 lumens and it is rare that I need full power on both. Usually about half of that is plenty and many times I get by fine with about 500 lumens. For the most part I run an older Lupine Betty on the bars and a Gloworm X2 on the helmet. I also have a spare Gloworm X 2, a Magicshine, and a Lupine Wilma that don't get much use, but I think I might mount all my lights one night for the heck of it and all combined they should be approaching 6,000 lumens.

    There is no doubt that you are extremely visible from any angle, and completely blinding from the front. I particularly like the red zone mounted to the helmet for all around visibility.

  33. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaximusHQ View Post
    Androgen nice job on the video and your bike looks like a carnival on wheels. As for runtime, do you really use full power all the time on your lights? Medium power should be more than enough for most situations. I usually can go for 3-4 rides between charges and my rides last close to 2 hours each. I adjust my lights power level as needed. If I ran on full power I would have to charge them after each ride. My bar light and helmet light combined are 3,000 lumens and it is rare that I need full power on both. Usually about half of that is plenty and many times I get by fine with about 500 lumens. For the most part I run an older Lupine Betty on the bars and a Gloworm X2 on the helmet. I also have a spare Gloworm X 2, a Magicshine, and a Lupine Wilma that don't get much use, but I think I might mount all my lights one night for the heck of it and all combined they should be approaching 6,000 lumens.

    There is no doubt that you are extremely visible from any angle, and completely blinding from the front. I particularly like the red zone mounted to the helmet for all around visibility.
    why would you not want to recharge the batteries after every ride ? laziness or trying to increase longevity of the batteries ?

    i only start to lower the output if i think there is any chance to run out of battery life on the ride. so for example my last night ride was 3 hours on 3 hour battery life and i ran on full power for about 2 hours with the remainder or lower power. i also reduce power or turn off completely on narrow paths such as bridges, and whatever other situations call for it.

    the only light where i feel i have "enough" brightness is the Dinotte 400R at night. on all other lights i wish i had more.

    but that's part of my personality though. i cannot stand moderation. it just bothers me.

  34. #84
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    Well I have gotten 6 years out of my Lupine battery packs and they are still going so I think that the way you can extend the battery life quite a bit by only using the amount of output that each situation calls for. You know how much it costs to replace a Lupine battery so if the batteries last longer then all the better. For me to use full output I have to be moving very fast down a hill to feel it's necessary otherwise it seems like a waste of battery. One thing that makes it easier to adjust the power level often is that my Lupines and Gloworms all have external switches that can mount in easier to reach locations either on the bar or helmet. It would be annoying for me now to have to use a light with the power button built into the light head itself after being spoiled by the external switches that I am so used to.

  35. #85
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    I just remembered another reason why I don't like running full power sometimes is because once you do your night vision gets messed up and you can't see anything outside of what your own lights are illuminating. If it is a full moon out I enjoy riding with minimal lighting so that I can see what is outside of my lighting also.

  36. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaximusHQ View Post
    Well I have gotten 6 years out of my Lupine battery packs and they are still going so I think that the way you can extend the battery life quite a bit by only using the amount of output that each situation calls for. You know how much it costs to replace a Lupine battery so if the batteries last longer then all the better. For me to use full output I have to be moving very fast down a hill to feel it's necessary otherwise it seems like a waste of battery. One thing that makes it easier to adjust the power level often is that my Lupines and Gloworms all have external switches that can mount in easier to reach locations either on the bar or helmet. It would be annoying for me now to have to use a light with the power button built into the light head itself after being spoiled by the external switches that I am so used to.
    Lupines do seem to last from what i am hearing. I guess i haven't been in this business long enough to be thinking long-term like you, yet.

    The features on the Seca are admittedly spartan. A remote switch is one of the many features that Seca is missing. NiteRider is better than Light & Motion when it comes to features, but NR lights tend to be overweight. Lupine is lightweight and feature packed but the beam is less optimized than either L&M or NiteRider. Gotta take a hit somewhere

    anyway, i'm out to sleep.

  37. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaximusHQ View Post
    Well I have gotten 6 years out of my Lupine battery packs and they are still going so I think that the way you can extend the battery life quite a bit by only using the amount of output that each situation calls for. You know how much it costs to replace a Lupine battery so if the batteries last longer then all the better. For me to use full output I have to be moving very fast down a hill to feel it's necessary otherwise it seems like a waste of battery. One thing that makes it easier to adjust the power level often is that my Lupines and Gloworms all have external switches that can mount in easier to reach locations either on the bar or helmet. It would be annoying for me now to have to use a light with the power button built into the light head itself after being spoiled by the external switches that I am so used to.
    True to a certain extent but I think with bike lights it's more the old age that gets them. The cheaper cells can probably only take 300 or so charges and the better ones can probably take 1000 (i.e. Lupine). For me, with Lupine, I wouldn't make 1000 cycles in 6 years so it's moot.

    I was just reading an article about the Tesla car that burned up that led me to another article on their battery. They found that the can prolong the life of the battery by not discharging below 50% and then tapering the charge heavily above 90% - in other words, not hitting either full discharge (anywhere close) or slamming it full of charge. That argues for more frequent charging - but it's a bummer for an electric car since it's like only being able to drive your car between half and 7/8ths full tank of gas.

    Batteries are the consumables of lights. A Li-ion battery starts dying the day it's manufactured. Most of them die of old age, I think.

    J.

  38. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80 View Post
    True to a certain extent but I think with bike lights it's more the old age that gets them. The cheaper cells can probably only take 300 or so charges and the better ones can probably take 1000 (i.e. Lupine). For me, with Lupine, I wouldn't make 1000 cycles in 6 years so it's moot.

    I was just reading an article about the Tesla car that burned up that led me to another article on their battery. They found that the can prolong the life of the battery by not discharging below 50% and then tapering the charge heavily above 90% - in other words, not hitting either full discharge (anywhere close) or slamming it full of charge. That argues for more frequent charging - but it's a bummer for an electric car since it's like only being able to drive your car between half and 7/8ths full tank of gas.

    Batteries are the consumables of lights. A Li-ion battery starts dying the day it's manufactured. Most of them die of old age, I think.

    J.
    good information. yes. that's one of the reasons i always charge them back up after a ride is that keeping them discharged is something the manual warns against.

  39. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaximusHQ View Post
    I just remembered another reason why I don't like running full power sometimes is because once you do your night vision gets messed up and you can't see anything outside of what your own lights are illuminating. If it is a full moon out I enjoy riding with minimal lighting so that I can see what is outside of my lighting also.
    what this is saying to me is that you want a light with wider spill.

    NR Pro 3600 probably has the widest usable beam. you probably wouldn't need to see anything outside of its beam.

    the Seca has an even wider spill, but it's not really usable for illumination i think - instead it is very useful for being seen. if you watch my last video you can tell that the Seca is seen from almost 360 degrees, and is quite visible for more than 180 degrees - that's due to the convex shape of the front polycarbonate piece that wraps around the sides of the light.

    this side-visibility feature on the Seca was one of the features that sealed the deal for me for the Seca as a road / city light. however as i said, i don't think the side light is bright enough for SEEING with, only for being seen.

    the NR Pro 3600 though is an exceptionally wide light, yet still throws with the best of them.

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    androgen - i was noticing in your video that the light on the bars seems to have two distinct parts of the beam - the larger hot spot then a dark line and then another beam close in to your front tire. Is that the Seca's beam or is there something else that is causing that?

    J.

  41. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80 View Post
    androgen - i was noticing in your video that the light on the bars seems to have two distinct parts of the beam - the larger hot spot then a dark line and then another beam close in to your front tire. Is that the Seca's beam or is there something else that is causing that?

    J.
    the way i did the video it should be pretty clear that it's the Dosun doing this. i have a part of the video with only the Dosun and a part with only the Seca so if you watched the video more carefully you wouldn't need to ask this

    that said the dark line in Dosun beam pattern is mostly on the sides of the beam.

    when watching the Seca beam in my video keep in mind that i am using two of them deliberately aimed slightly to the side each to make the beam wider. there is probably 5-10 degrees between centerlines of the two Secas the way they are aimed. a single Seca by itself is smooth, but two are even smoother, and significantly wider.

    Dosun Beam ( Image by Dosun ) :


  42. #92
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    watch specifically starting at 21 minute 08 seconds mark when i alternate between Dosun and Seca to see the difference in pattern.


  43. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by androgen View Post
    what this is saying to me is that you want a light with wider spill.

    NR Pro 3600 probably has the widest usable beam. you probably wouldn't need to see anything outside of its beam.

    the Seca has an even wider spill, but it's not really usable for illumination i think - instead it is very useful for being seen. if you watch my last video you can tell that the Seca is seen from almost 360 degrees, and is quite visible for more than 180 degrees - that's due to the convex shape of the front polycarbonate piece that wraps around the sides of the light.

    this side-visibility feature on the Seca was one of the features that sealed the deal for me for the Seca as a road / city light. however as i said, i don't think the side light is bright enough for SEEING with, only for being seen.

    the NR Pro 3600 though is an exceptionally wide light, yet still throws with the best of them.

    I have seen the NR 3600 beam shots and it does have a pretty good beam pattern. It's not the light for me though. I have owned two NR lights and the quality is very average. The Betty light I have has a 22 degree lens and has more emphasis on throw than spill which I don't mind because my Gloworm X2 has a lot of spill and fills in where the Betty can't. Like you, I realize there isn't one perfect light out there and it helps to have one light with a wider pattern and one with a lot of punch so that they compliment each other. I see your point about having more spill on my lights, but still it is sometimes better to know what is going on outside of my beam so I prefer not to crank up the lumens if I don't have to.

    Johnj80, In using my Lupine batteries I have never actually seen a red Led indicating that the battery is just about completely empty, I only have gotten to the point where a yellow Led appears which in the manual says that it is a warning that a significant amount of battery has been used. The exact amount I am unsure of. At this point if you are on full power it will kick down to the next lowest setting which is 40% on my light and this will still give me a significant amount of runtime on this setting. At least an hour at this level. Anyway I never store them fully charged for long times in the winter months and never completely deplete them either so I guess that may help them to last longer. The newer Lupine batteries have the nice indicators on them which is a nice touch so when I need to finally replace mine that will be kind of like a cool new feature for me.

  44. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaximusHQ View Post
    The newer Lupine batteries have the nice indicators on them which is a nice touch so when I need to finally replace mine that will be kind of like a cool new feature for me.
    i wish i had that. the Seca doesn't even have a good indicator on the light body itself ( NiteRider Pro does ) my Milwaukee lithium drill has lupine-like battery indicators on the batteries ... but my lights don't have that

    the battery life indicator ( or lack thereof ) is one of my main beefs with the Seca. some of the other ones are the long cable ( versus short one plus extension cord ), lack of quick release mechanism, and that rubber band mount system which while better than rubber rings on Lupine / Magicshine is nowhere near what comes on Exposure or NiteRider Pro.

    the reason i still hold Seca in high regard is because none of these flaws are design flaws - they are all cost cutting measures. i would rather have a product that has cut corners than a product that has made dumb mistakes. in other words i would rather have a product made by cynical people than by incompetent people.

  45. #95
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    Re: starting all over again from scratch :)

    Ok so dinotte says it shipped the daytime red, although it looks like I will not have means to track it, but dinotte is only 5 hours drive from here so I think it should be here by end of the week.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk now Free

  46. #96
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    received Camelbak Mule to replace my TheNorthFace Klamath 8.

    i basically ran out of room for batteries in the old pack.



    when i opened the shipping box my first thought was "WTF it's the same size as my old pack !" then i picked it up and it weighed even less. but when you start to fill it up you realize that that internal space in the Mule is much greater indeed. the reservoir is also much larger - 3 liters versus 2 liters.

    so yeah like i said they look the same size when they're empty, but when you start stuffing them the North Face is flat like an envelope and will not take much. but the Mule expands and expands and has about double the capacity despite being essentially same size and what seems like lower weight.

    the North Face does use thicker material so it is probably more durable, but it's probably excessive. the thinner material on the Mule probably strikes closer to optimum compromise between weight and durability.

    considering that North Face was a lower volume, cheaper pack it had better organization IMO than Camelbak. the Mule can use some improvement in this area - unlike the North Face, the Mule is lacking in the organization department.

    but Organization is at the end of the day a luxury, and volume / space is a necessity.

    since i was happy with the quality of the North Face i tried to get a bigger North Face to replace it but i couldn't find one that i thought had enough internal volume. the volume in the Mule appears to be just right for my needs.

    i also like that it has a larger ( taller ) reservoir because that way i don't need to fill it up all the way so hopefully it will allow it to stay flatter on my back.

    i haven't tested it on the bike though. i just filled it up with some water and stuff, tried putting it on, drinking - so far so good.

    one other area where i really liked the North Face was a magnetic clip for the hose - that was neat as hell. i just loved using it the Mule doesn't have any clip at all - it just has a shorter hose that just hangs there. this is a bummer ... i would have much preferred the longer hose of the North Face with a magnetic clip than a short hose of Mule without a clip. i will need to ride with that pack to see how much of a problem it is in practice.

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    Wrong forum. This is not the pack review area.

  48. #98
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    so this is the helmet setup i will be evaluating. that is a regular 400R on there.

    the Daytime Red is on the seatpost.

    i just tried putting it on my head - it is well balanced - but there is just no getting around it - it is heavy. i'm not sure how it will work on the road, but certainly you would not be able to use anywhere close to this weight on the trail. it simply wouldn't stay on your head.


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    They look like they are mounted so close together that you could have probably gotten by with a single rz8 running along the top of the helmet.

  50. #100
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    Yes Androgen you only need one red zone 8. So send the other one directly to me.

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