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  1. #1201
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    Yo!

    I went for a ride with my new "daylight bringer".

    My camera can't cope temperatures below 0C - 32F.
    (Sorry, no beamshots, yet!)

    Well, the leds are now direct driven by the battery pack.
    I've measured about 2,65 ampere and ca. 6,9 volt on a fully charged pack.

    The body of the SSX2 is cold while riding with 25km/h - 15mph.
    Without moving the body of the SSX2 is not getting hot after 1-2min.
    (Led temperature is unknown, SSX2 body had about 37C - 45C)

    With better cooling modifications like copper emitter, copper fittings, heatsinks and maybe a heatpipe construction connected to the handlebar will make the SSX2 a killer bicycle light, DAYLIGHT BRINGER for sure!

    I'm stoked and it is maybe even too much!

    Well, we have really, really strong fog with a mix of snow here outside of our town,
    so I wouldn't recommand to use such strong light at such weather!

    You can blind yourself or I got problem with my eyes.
    I'm not sure maybe it's just the "white - cool white" tint by the leds.

    Happy modding guys!

    Last edited by Jimmy Kester; 12-04-2016 at 05:05 PM.

  2. #1202
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy Kester View Post
    Well, the leds are now direct driven by the battery . . .

    The body of the SSX2 is cold while riding with 25km/h - 15mph.
    Without moving the body of the SSX2 is not getting hot after 1-2min.
    (Led temperature is unknown)
    That body should definitely be getting hot after a couple of minutes, even at 2+ amps. "Body getting hot" is a sign that heat is transferring to the outside of the case.

    -Garry

  3. #1203
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    Nope!

    We have temperatures below 0C, which is friggin' cold!

    Sure, the leds could burn themself without moving at such temperature.

    Well, at room temperature the body gets much warmer with two strong pc cooling fans.

    Different ambient temperatures, different results!

    Try it!

  4. #1204
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy Kester View Post
    Yo!

    I went for a ride with my new "daylight bringer".

    My camera can't cope temperatures below 0C - 32F.
    (Sorry, no beamshots, yet!)

    Well, the leds are now direct driven by the battery pack.
    I've measured about 2,65 ampere and ca. 6,9 volt on a fully charged pack.

    The body of the SSX2 is cold while riding with 25km/h - 15mph.
    Without moving the body of the SSX2 is not getting hot after 1-2min.
    (Led temperature is unknown, SSX2 body had about 37C - 45C)

    With better cooling modifications like copper emitter, copper fittings, heatsinks and maybe a heatpipe construction connected to the handlebar will make the SSX2 a killer bicycle light, DAYLIGHT BRINGER for sure!

    I'm stoked and it is maybe even too much!

    Well, we have really, really strong fog with a mix of snow here outside of our town,
    so I wouldn't recommand to use such strong light at such weather!

    You can blind yourself or I got problem with my eyes.
    I'm not sure maybe it's just the "white - cold white" tint by the leds.

    Happy modding guys!


    I like how you have your light mounted. If you have a big enough o-ring you can take stem off and put o-ring around it to hold light over stem also.

  5. #1205
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    Hmm, you guys should think about...:

    "Why is the battery indicator led (still) not burned?!"

    Let's do some homework!

    Make sure to take my advice in cooling methods.
    (Once again, I'm a pc watercooling EXPERT. PERIOD.)

    Happy modding!

  6. #1206
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    Quote Originally Posted by Staypuft1652 View Post
    I like how you have your light mounted. If you have a big enough o-ring you can take stem off and put o-ring around it to hold light over stem also.
    I know...nice that you mentioned it!

    Rock Bros extension.

    ROCKBROS Fahrrad Verlängert Klammer Montieren Halter Lenker für Lampe CS243 | eBay


  7. #1207
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    Test drive with my "naked" SSX2.

    That BEAST has more than 1500 lumen.

    The Cateye HL-500 II-G is modded with a 12 Volt smd led; 0,1 ampere; ~110 lumen; nicely warm white.




  8. #1208
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy Kester View Post
    I know...nice that you mentioned it!

    Rock Bros extension.

    ROCKBROS Fahrrad Verlängert Klammer Montieren Halter Lenker für Lampe CS243 | eBay


    That one looks sturdier than most of the extensions I've seen, other than the dual ones but they are not compatible with my bars without alot of shims.

  9. #1209
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    Unfortunately yes! ;( Use your imagination what you desire...

    Tomorrow, I'm going to glue the heat sinks, copper fittings etc. and will see what is going to happen...

    Maybe, I'm going nuts and will do the "killer upgrade" with heatpipes and a copper plate 30x3cm or something like that...

    Heat transfer to the bicycle is the way to go!


  10. #1210
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    As a PC WC expert you may know that you need quite flat mating surfaces, some thermal compound and a firm connection to transfer the heat effectively. There are a lot of connections on bikes that really do move when you are riding, e.g.: the end of the stem where is meets the handlebar, etc etc. The mating of the surfaces is really poor too. So consider these also ;-)

  11. #1211
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    That is basic knowledge!

    You know what!?

    Almost EVERY CPU, GPU water cooler IS NOT flat.

    They just claim it is laser cut and other stupid shit which they don't do.

    They just want your money, nothing more.

    Well, that's why we are going crazy in lapping the shit out of a CPU heatspreader, water cooler etc..

    Work in progress!
    (Grinding with a skateboard is fun, to grind those copper fittings is no fun and takes about 1-2 hour to get it in 17mm shape)

    Happy modding guys!


  12. #1212
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    Circa 1500 lumen.

    Have fun "kinder"!




  13. #1213
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    Just got Solarstorm x2 the other day but having a problem. When i connect the battery to the light the back leds light up and I can turn the light on but the light will only stay on for 30 seconds to a minute then shut down. Battery has to then be connected to the charger for a few min before it will power the light again. Green led on the charger at all times whether the battery is connected or not. Anyone deal with this before?

    Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk

  14. #1214
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    I'd say you have a short somewhere that is tripping the battery protection circuit. You'll need to unscrew the back plate of the lighthead and check the power lead connectors . Does it stay on until the light is moved around (i.e. bare wires might be moving & then touching each other) or does it shut off even if sitting still? If still I'd say it shouldn't be bare wires, but possibly component related. Maybe open it up, get a good closeup picture and post it.

    -Garry

  15. #1215
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    Try what Garry says and you may try to power the light from a DC power source with enough power (volts and amps). IF the light behaves the same way as it did on the battery then you have a problem with the light. If not, then battery is the problem.

    Quote Originally Posted by MadBlackHatter View Post
    Just got Solarstorm x2 the other day but having a problem. When i connect the battery to the light the back leds light up and I can turn the light on but the light will only stay on for 30 seconds to a minute then shut down. Battery has to then be connected to the charger for a few min before it will power the light again. Green led on the charger at all times whether the battery is connected or not. Anyone deal with this before?

    Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk

  16. #1216
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    It will turn off even when completely still. I'll post some pics tonight when i get home. It ran good the first time for about 2 hours switching from midium and high but now it's doing this reset issue. Really hoping it's just the charger

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  17. #1217
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    If you have a cheap battery pack, then it might be out of balance and protection trips in. You can rule this out when you power the light with a DC power source.

  18. #1218
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    Tipical cheapo battery problem I would say. Measurments of battery and charger voltages would tell it for shure. I would say one set of cells are fully charged while the other is are about fully discharged. This is situation where protection circuit won't let to charge the pack (one set full charged) and when connected to the light it cuts off cause another set of cells has voltage to low.

    MadBlackHatter, do you have any chance to measure voltages with any voltmeter (DMM)? Charger should give out about 8.40V unloaded. I can predict battery pack comes somewhere 5-7V after disconecting off the charger. If so, buy quality battery pack and you'll be good for another 5 years.

  19. #1219
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    Possibly the charger is bad as well. Maybe find a different charger and see if that works. I mention the charger b/c the light worked the first time and now has an issue after needing to charge the battery. Just a thought.

    MB

  20. #1220
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    Only have the one charger supplied with the light but it looks good putting out 8.4v. The battery on the other hand is only doing 6.2v so I'm guessing this is the unbalanced issue mentioned earlier. Is it possible too fix or should I not waste my time and just get a new battery pack?

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  21. #1221
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    You can rebalance them, but you need to crack open the battery pack and have a li-ion 4.2v charger. I posted pics in a thread somewhere where I used a piece of dowel to adapt to the charger bay slot. Maybe I can find the pic.

    -Garry

  22. #1222
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    Here's the pic:
    SolarStorm/FandyFire X2-20141216_202330_zpsa89afabe.jpg

    -Garry

  23. #1223
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    Thanks garry! Unfortunately I don't have a charger to do this with, or at least to my limited electrical knowledge lol. I think I'll bite the bullet and just get a new battery pack. What's a good replacement battery that can still use the charger, or even a 4xAA pack that would have the right plug for the light?

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  24. #1224
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    If you had looked for it you would found:
    The Battery Thread 2016 and Beyond

    Best price performance, but you have to wait quite some time for it:
    Quality 8.4V 6800mAh 4 x NCR18650B Battery Pack at Kaidomain.com for reasonable price
    Last edited by ledoman; 12-08-2016 at 01:12 AM.

  25. #1225
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    ^ +1. I'd get a proper pack of panasonic cells. You can get them balanced, but the problem is the different capacity of each cell. They easily unbalance again.

  26. #1226
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    Yep, and it is also good to refresh the batteries in a good battery charger.


    My copper fitting idea works pretty well.
    Everything fits perfect and is going to be great.

    The new genuine CREE XM-L2 T6 on copper plate fits very good in the 18-16mm copper fitting.

    I'll get it done tomorrow. Yihaa!

  27. #1227
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    Here is another idea.

    It is possible to connect two SSX2 bodies with a copper fitting like that (20-18mm fitting):


    Then throw some Cree MK-R (max. 1500lumen) in it, heatsinks on top and side....

    Voil...this will be a killer light for sure.

  28. #1228
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    Yo, I'm almost done!

    Things you need:

    - a lot of time
    - copper fittings (20-18mm + 18mm)
    - a file to grind that 18mm copper fitting down to ca. 17mm
    - boring machine
    - hacksaw
    - thermal paste

    Happy modding!



    Last edited by Jimmy Kester; 12-13-2016 at 06:33 AM.

  29. #1229
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    Quote Originally Posted by eldee View Post
    aaand then I fried my circuit board
    Accidentally make open circuit when measuring led current so be careful when doing that!
    Don't know if better driver boards have protection for that.


    Well, you have fried your LEDs.

    Did the same mistake (on the blue pcb w/o + - markings) and have fried my "Lattice Bright" leds, yesterday.
    I just wanted to know which cable is plus,minus.
    (Didn't need them anyway...)

    Actually, you can measure the voltage for very short time (less than a second).

    I STRONGLY RECOMMAND TO USE A 6V BULB FOR TESTING!!!

    If this happens, don't be sad!
    You can easily make you own "direct driven" bicycle light.
    (Only with a better cooling!!!)

    Just use a thin cable to reduce the ampere and voltage.
    (I've used a cable from a pc cooling fan)


    Now I'm discharging my battery pack to 90% and will start again with a pair of genuie Cree xml2.

    btw...it's so much fun to test different cable lengths. ^^

    Shit happens, lesson learned.

    Maybe, I'm going to update some pictures with different results (cable lengths).

  30. #1230
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    Boy, oh boy!

    I finally got it!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xOfFYOYQ4rg
    Very interesting...

    The ampere do not raise so heat transfer works well, I guess.
    Tonight, I'm FINALLY going to see that leds in action.
    (Cree xml2 4000-4300k)

    Is there anybody with longtime experience regarding DD (direct drive) of leds?
    (I have measured ca. 6,6volts, due voltage drop, battery pack was half empty)

    Last edited by Jimmy Kester; 12-11-2016 at 02:49 AM.

  31. #1231
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    I have some DD experience in a simple bench testing environment. I don't use it on anything for real use though as I prefer to have adjustable brightness on my lights and constant output during the runtime.

    Essentially you are striking a balance between the ability of the power source (battery) to supply power, the resistance of the circuit between the power source and the LEDs, and the LED's voltage/current curve. As with anything that works while the balance is close enough, change one of the items and the balance is disturbed enough, something quits working.

    The change with the most potential to disrupt the operation of a DD system is the power supply. If you get your system working with a typical low cost Chinese 2S2P battery pack and later switch to a different 2S2P pack made with higher discharge rate cells your light will burn out. Same thing happens if you go to a 2S3 or 4P pack in an attempt to get longer runtimes. The additional cells in parallel give the pack more current capacity. The voltage drop is less and the power capability of the LEDs is exceeded.

    A resistor in series with the LEDs can minimize or eliminate the risk of burning them up if you change your power source. The power cord between the battery and the light and the connectors used create resistance in the circuit. Using a 24AWG cable creates a noticeable voltage drop when trying supply 3A. The excess energy is converted to heat in either scenario so efficiency is quite low.

    DD systems have varying light output during the runtime. Very bright at first and quickly dropping down to a "plateau" where they run for a while. Then starting to dim as the battery's ability to supply power drops. Other than dimming, there is no warning that the light is about to go out when the low voltage battery protection circuit activates.
    Last edited by Vancbiker; 12-10-2016 at 12:39 PM. Reason: fix spelling
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  32. #1232
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    THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!

    Man, I'm exhausted...

    The last 4 days feels like one week without sleep.

    Maybe, I'm going to try to decrease the voltage with a bigger cable.

    I could puke now. but this will be my bike light FOREVER....hope so... ;( !!!

  33. #1233
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    Well, I'm finally done and everything works.

    - Heat transfer is much better now
    - Running time is about one hour
    (that unknown leds had the same running time and performed pretty good!!!)

    Thanks a bunch to everyone who helped me to get it done...

    Especially: Vancbiker and led-tech.de !!!

    Cheers!

    Genuine Cree XML2 T6 4000-4300k, modded SSX2, ca. 1,5 - 1,8 ampere)

    Last edited by Jimmy Kester; 12-14-2016 at 01:51 AM.

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    "Quick 'n' dirty cooling solution"

    ]

  36. #1236
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    If it was me I would have left the valley clear for air flow. No need for a thermal transfer point there anyway. Instead of direct to air you added another medium to slow the transfer of heat away from the emitters before reaching open air. The thermal paste (I'm actually guessing you used epoxy) is plenty for transfer to that monster heat sink. Great idea there if your cranking this things output way up. Keep that driver from burning out easily.

    I think I missed it, what did you crank the emitters up to?

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

  37. #1237
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    It's not going to win beauty contest, but actualy should be much better than stock solution. It may stand direct drive without big issues, at least when moving.

  38. #1238
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    If it was me I would have left the valley clear for air flow. No need for a thermal transfer point there anyway. Instead of direct to air you added another medium to slow the transfer of heat away from the emitters before reaching open air. The thermal paste (I'm actually guessing you used epoxy) is plenty for transfer to that monster heat sink. Great idea there if your cranking this things output way up. Keep that driver from burning out easily.
    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post

    I think I missed it, what did you crank the emitters up to?

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    lmao...You know nothing about heat transfer.

    Why is my Wallie much cooler with this HEAT SINK on top?

    1+1=3 ?

    I've NEVER read such comment in more than 10 years!

    With a fully charged pack they get ca. 2,5A.

    This works just great and is much cooler now! lol

    Ofc, I've didn't used epoxid.
    Some people mix it with thermal paste.

    Quote Originally Posted by ledoman View Post
    It's not going to win beauty contest, but actualy should be much better than stock solution. It may stand direct drive without big issues, at least when moving.
    Quote Originally Posted by ledoman View Post


    Hey, hey, hey, hey don't **** with my little girl^^
    She is growing and growing and will become a real star!

    The copper fittings are still unlapped and I've used not the very best thermal paste.

    With Arctic MX 4 and lapped copper fittings plus extended HEAT SINKS , will be COOL as **** even without moving.


    It's all about heat transfer and thermalpaste.

    Well, I will buy another cheap chinese battery pack and be done with it.
    In total, I payed less than 50.

    Last edited by Jimmy Kester; 12-13-2016 at 02:26 PM.

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    Is the silicone being used to hold the heatsink to the body, or is your thermal paste an adhesive too?

    It is a lot of extra work to just run 2.5A. Since the XML can handle more, you could try a battery pack with a higher discharge rating to really pump out some light. I run XMLs and XPLs at 3.5A with no issues.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    Is the silicone being used to hold the heatsink to the body, or is your thermal paste an adhesive too?
    Well, it is just a quick 'n' dirty solution.
    The better option would be Arctic MX 4 and the heat sink (screwed) on top.

    I just applied silicone around the heat sink and thermal paste on the lapped side.
    It is by far not the best heat transfer and I don't know if it's tight, pressure and so on.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    It is a lot of extra work to just run 2.5A. Since the XML can handle more, you could try a battery pack with a higher discharge rating to really pump out some light. I run XMLs and XPLs at 3.5A with no issues.
    Wow, that sounds nice^^.

    I'm unsure if I'm going to get steady ampere output or not.

    So far, I just did 2 and one drunken/sleep test drive^^.

    I guess another cheap battery pack would be more than enough.

    Two hours on a race bike are more than enough for me...

  41. #1241
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy Kester View Post

    lmao...You know nothing about heat transfer.

    Why is my Wallie much cooler with this HEAT SINK on top?

    1+1=3 ?

    I've NEVER read such comment in more than 10 years!

    With a fully charged pack they get ca. 2,5A.

    This works just great and is much cooler now! lol

    Ofc, I've didn't used epoxid.
    Some people mix it with thermal paste.



    Hey, hey, hey, hey don't **** with my little girl^^
    She is growing and growing and will become a real star!

    The copper fittings are still unlapped and I've used not the very best thermal paste.

    With Arctic MX 4 and lapped copper fittings plus extended HEAT SINKS , will be COOL as **** even without moving.


    It's all about heat transfer and thermalpaste.

    Well, I will buy another cheap chinese battery pack and be done with it.
    In total, I payed less than 50.

    Not to start a debate but I do actually, quite a lot. I was just saying "if it was me I would have skipped that part". Not degrading your work, simply saying you put in extra effort you didn't have to right now. But attacking me like that when you mixed thermal paste into standard epoxy instead of using thermal epoxy....... Anything helps draw heat but let's please just not go there.

    Ya I had a learning curve a long while ago but I have put countless hours into learning from others here, cpf and blf (not counting just standard research). That and I just played with crap for giggles to see if something small had an real effect (which it didn't but looked cool).

    Standard silicone though thermally conductive is less than that of thermal compound and insulates due to its lower thermal transfer. The idea with bike lights is to get the heat from the LEDs to the outside air as fast as possible. Minimal resistance from led to outer housing.

    Anyway, all that work you've done, crank that baby up. A yinding runs at 2.5A, you can crank that light up well further, 3.5A with that set up you have going. Make sure one insanely bright little light!

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

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    For sure man.

    Ahh..you know just nothing about heat transfer. PERIOD.

    I already told you that I'm a MAD water cooling freak (EXPERT).

    ...

    Stay tuned guys and happy modding!

    btw. this will be cool as ****.... = MAXIMUM lumen efficiency...

    Have fun with your bicycle lights!




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  44. #1244
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    Nvm just realized this I think is the same person who picks fights under different user names in different subs as soon as you try to help or do anything constructive on the matter at hand. Seems I can't even be active over here now without this guy attacking me for no reason.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

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    LOL


  46. #1246
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    Thanks for confirming that, much appreciated.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

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    No problemo.
    I'll tell you later how that heat sink works at 3A.

  48. #1248
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    I am rather curious what your beef is with me. Seem to stalk me literally anywhere I post (under your various user names). Kind of childish isn't it? Especially being the fact others say the same thing I do and don't recieve the same response...

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

  49. #1249
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy Kester View Post
    ......
    How do you solder the pieces together with water in there? Seems that the water will boil long before the metal is hot enough to solder. If you were able to get it hot enough to solder before all the water boiled out, the steam pressure would keep blowing solder out of the joint. I'm pretty sure that's not how heat pipes are made.

    You've added more than enough heatsinking to that SSX2 for bike use. A couple square inches of surface are per Watt of power is all that is needed to keep a light cool at low speed. One square inch per Watt works if you keep up ~6-8 mph. Of course ambient temps affect those numbers greatly, but I've found them to work well with the 40-65 degree F temps of most of my night riding.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  50. #1250
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    Wow.... Lol

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

  51. #1251
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    As a teacher...I'm telling you...DO YOUR HOMEWORK...tzzz

    You're playing with your smartphone while I'm doing creative science...

    NOOB.

  52. #1252
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy Kester View Post
    As a teacher...I'm telling you...DO YOUR HOMEWORK...tzzz

    You're playing with your smartphone while I'm doing creative science...

    NOOB.
    I think we are getting a bit off topic now, with Jimmy being quite rude. We all appreciate your expertise in water cooling. If you explain to us why what you have done is better than what Tig says would be a better educative reading instead of attacking someone. Tig is famous over here - see his reputation. While yours is quite low if I were you I'd be more polite. My interest in reading this thread is slowly disappearing and others may have the same feeling.

  53. #1253
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    I think we are getting a bit off topic now, with Jimmy being quite rude. We all appreciate your expertise in water cooling. If you explain to us why what you have done is better than what Tig says would be a better educative reading instead of attacking someone. Tig is famous over here - see his reputation. While yours is quite low if I were you I'd be more polite. My interest in reading this thread is slowly disappearing and others may have the same feeling.
    To be honest, me too.
    That's why I'm in no forums anymore.

    People come to me tell me that an extended HEAT SINK won't work.

    Sure, 1+1= 3

    No comment anymore.
    I just don't get it....How can somebody that ..... .

    Btw. I've seen many people with 30000 comments and so on, who just talking ********.

    I'm out.

  54. #1254
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy Kester View Post
    To be honest, me too.
    That's why I'm in no forums anymore.
    ...
    And again if I were you I'd really think about what you've wrote. A cube can have sides with different colors.

  55. #1255
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    To be honest again...you're intelligence hurts a lot.

    If you want hot leds and low efficiency...blablabla

    This was my last comment. PERIOD.


  56. #1256
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    Just FYI, read my previous posts, nowhere did I say anything about anything "not working".

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  57. #1257
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    I'm pity you.

    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Just FYI, read my previous posts, nowhere
    did I say anything about anything "not working".
    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    If it was me I would have left the valley clear for air flow. No need for a thermal transfer point there anyway. Instead of direct to air you added another medium to slow the transfer of heat away from the emitters before reaching open air. The thermal paste (I'm actually guessing you used epoxy) is plenty for transfer to that monster heat sink. Great idea there if your cranking this things output way up. Keep that driver from burning out easily.

    I think I missed it, what did you crank the emitters up to?
    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    But attacking me like that when you mixed thermal paste into standard epoxy instead of using thermal epoxy....... Anything helps draw heat but let's please just not go there.
    I'm sure you know just nothing about thermal paste, heat transfer and THE ALREADY WORKING SSX2.

    You're the only one who is asking such "stupid" questions.

    Do you know how a heat sink works? Difference with a lapped one?
    Do you ever have any thermal paste (long time) results?
    How much pc hardware did you overclocked?


    I'm a nice, chilled guy, mostly...
    and there are NO stupid questions.

    Next time, think twice before asking for already responded questions.

  58. #1258
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    Oh, I got "rude warning" msg for responding to stupid questions.

    I'm in a wrong forum AGAIN.

    pff...NOOBS

  59. #1259
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    Thank you for the reports. Jimmy has been warned, if he keeps insulting and personally attacking users please report it again.
    Ride Bikes, Drink Craft Beer, Repeat.

    Know these before you post:
    MTBR Forum Posting Rules
    e-bike sub-forum rules

  60. #1260
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    Could some posts here get deleted to keep it informative and educational and not personal? ;-)

  61. #1261
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    Select those posts and ask moderators. They should be able to clear them, at least.

    Should we also start new thread about SSX2? This one is pretty loooong.

  62. #1262
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    Today I got my SolarStorm X2.
    I want to give it higher power.
    Which components do I need?
    What can be max power to me the Led does not burn off?
    Genuine SolarStorm X2 from Kaidomain.
    Is that the original driver or a reproduction?

    SolarStorm/FandyFire X2-img_20170303_120246.jpg
    SolarStorm/FandyFire X2-img_20170303_120301.jpgSolarStorm/FandyFire X2-img_20170303_120325.jpgSolarStorm/FandyFire X2-img_20170303_120332.jpgSolarStorm/FandyFire X2-img_20170303_120411.jpgSolarStorm/FandyFire X2-img_20170303_120505.jpgSolarStorm/FandyFire X2-img_20170303_154203.jpgSolarStorm/FandyFire X2-img_20170303_154211.jpgSolarStorm/FandyFire X2-img_20170304_220633.jpg


    The 2 silver pills have a thickness of 21.5cm and a height of 14.5cm.
    On the Leds are Insulation Gaskets for XML Leds.

    Furthermore, I would like to change the optics, but do not know if it makes sense. I thought of the Leddna synonymous for the Yinding fit?
    Are there perhaps comparative photos with original optics and the lenses Leddna with different degrees?
    I already take care of the heat transfer with copper sleeves and Copper Backplates.
    And new heat transfer paste MX4.
    Thanks
    Last edited by gecco; 03-04-2017 at 03:13 PM.

  63. #1263
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    Looks like R8 and R9 are your sense resistors, but I don't know what the sense voltage is (do you see an LEDA chip?). I also don't see an FET; is it under the coil? Someone with more electronics expertise is going to have to chime in on what current-limiting components are on that driver. How many amps does it draw off a full charged pack right now? I have no idea if it's an "original driver" - doubt it though.

    Do LEDDNA optics fit the X2? I don't remember anyone putting them in one. I think most people like the throwy beam pattern the stock reflectors give.

    Also, it looks like there is no solid wall behind the emitters (I believe that is the back of the aluminum pcb we see in that last pic. I wouldn't push these LEDs hard without trying to get a better thermal path. Try pressing in some copper pipe caps -see this BLF thread showing that very mod. EDIT - you updated your post after I posted this.

    -Garry

  64. #1264
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    As I can see there are two sense resistors R250 and R350 which in parallel acts as one 0.146 Ohm. LEDA chips has tipicaly 0.25V feedback voltage so:

    0.25 / 0.146 = 1.71A to the leds

    Can't recall if leds are connected in seriesor in parallel, but I would say in series.
    Adding R500 would raise the curent to 2.21A, R400 to 2.34A or R330 to 2.47A. I would not go to more than 2.3A beacuse of rather poor thermal transfer and relative small housing. Adding thermal compound on leds PCB is mandatory. Better yet what Garry suggested, adding some copper behind the led pcb.

    Diode SS34 and fet A09T should be sufficient, AFAIK.

    Once I've managed to replace reflectors with LED-DNA optics, but it was 2 years ago and I don't know which iteration of SSX2 I've got at that time. It was pure luck I think.
    If you have optics at hand you should try it out.

  65. #1265
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    I see gecco added pics showing underneath of coil.

    Ledoman - it's an R250 and R300, so 0.136 ohms so 0.25/0.136 = 1.84A to the leds. Adding an R500 would give 2.33A, an R400 gives 2.46A, an R330 gives 2.59A.

    -Garry

  66. #1266
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    Opps, thanks Garry, Don't know how I missed it. So R500 is the one I would use in this case.

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