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  1. #101
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    I think this light is very good, better than the other 3 XML clone due to direct thermal path. The current sense resistor mod can be done here. But I would be very careful with that. You could burn the weak driver The driver has 2 outputs to the leds, so you can't do anything but swap the driver if you want all leds on in all modes. The driver's 10 pin uC next to the switch states something like TR35 or IR35, can't read it properly, if someone could find out what this uC is, we'll be able to reprogram it and throw away the blinky disco mode.

  2. #102
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    Potting the driver should help prevent the driver from burning out.

    I'm way behind on driver programming. I have the programmer and chip clip, but haven't even plugged it in yet. I'll take a look at mine though. Maybe the writing on mine is clearer.

  3. #103
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    Potting decreses temp, but still some components might be too weak to handle larger current. It draws about 2.6A at 7.0V from battery on high and has eficiency about 85%. If you mod it to draw 3.5 that is about one third more there won't be such noticable difference of lumens coming out. If you discover the writing on the uC, you can post photos here. This uC works (I think):
    led1 led2:
    on off
    off on
    on on
    on on - disco mode

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    In order of little warning, I have to say that lights looking identical to this one, might be actually of quite different design. Friend of mine has ordered 3-LED and 4-LED lights, but triple variant in fact have LEDs mounted on the pill inserted into outer enclosure. Quadruple one, OTOH, looks exactly like your triple (in terms of case design):







    More images (including full-size ones) are available here:
    BikeTime • Просмотр темы - Фара Triple XM-L

    Unfortunately, 4-LED light died almost instantly: the driver (labeled Olympia HX-1190B5) and one of LEDs are burned out.

  5. #105
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    Wow, thanks for the great information again -Archie-.

    I noticed by this Skyray 3T6 XML:
    1. different driver
    2. named as 3T6 but without a label, mine has the Skyray S6 label
    3. the back could not be unscrewed (from the link you gave) ? - so I would be cautious ordering this light if I see that.
    4. quite bad thermal path since there is a small contact with the main body but OTOH a seems to have a lot of mass together with the reflector and inner pill.

    By this 4 XML:
    1. the driver is the one from DX I think, I recently saw it there with some info in the discussion there - "operating instructions". It suppose to have a lot of modes with hidden blinky etc ... Just I am wondering why the led fried itself.
    2. good thermal path
    3. unscrewable back - but different body from those Skyray 3-4-5-6 led classics ;-)
    4. the reflector is just pressed with the front bezel to the leds but there is a small thermal path between them.

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    3. the back could not be unscrewed (from the link you gave) ?
    Correct. Funny enough, my buddy has disassembled 4-LED light first, then tried hard to unscrew the back of 3-LED one, unless finally figuring out it's a single piece of metal...

    4. quite bad thermal path since there is a small contact with the main body but OTOH a seems to have a lot of mass together with the reflector and inner pill.
    In fact, I was surprized to see how big and heavy the light is: 308 g. As for sinking - it looks highly strange (main contact surface between pill and case is... rear side!), but works Ok.

    Just I am wondering why the led fried itself.
    My understanding is, the driver has failed first, putting enormous amount of power to the LEDs. As they're connected in series, weakest of them died, acting as "circuit breaker" and disconnecting the current path...

    4. the reflector is just pressed with the front bezel to the leds
    No, it's fixed by central screw on both lights.

  7. #107
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    Archie, did the 4-LED light died before dissassembling or after it. I'm wondering if it was somehow badly put together.
    I've been playing with this driver quite some time, also running it with 3S pack and haven't had any real problems. I'm waiting to get another one from DX to try some mods with current sense resistors. See my thread at DX.
    Also thermal path of this light is very good. Quite big and heavy housing is from one solid piece, no inserts or similar.

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by ledoman View Post
    Archie, did the 4-LED light died before dissassembling or after it. I'm wondering if it was somehow badly put together.
    The light was opened first (to check the internals), then assembled back and tested. After in-house observations, it was mounted on the bike and test ride conducted: everything was fine. Next day it refused to switch on...

    Also thermal path of this light is very good. Quite big and heavy housing is from one solid piece, no inserts or similar.
    Yes, it's the best design in terms of heat sinking.

  9. #109
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    Some condense in the light perhaps. I've found mine has came without o-ring at driver side. Also rear side might get into contact with the circuit if not pressfited back in place. I've put some capton tape there. Would you look after those possibilities so we would know more about it. Some closeup pictures of the driver might also help if some parts were fried.

  10. #110
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    There's no any visible damage: it looks absolutely Ok. Probably, the driver will be simply replaced: I see no point spending time to identify & resolder broken component(s).

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