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  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    Actually I use the oiginal protection from the ebay battery pack. I soldered the JST-XH male connector to the PCB. I use the balance connector to power the light, since the draw is about 2A. I am also going to add a low batt indicator. The temporary solution before I get the 5.5 mm bullet connector. And I also bought a 8000 mAh instead of 5000mAh, we will see how it performs The setup image:
    I have a noob question. I thought with RC batteries that you use the thick wires when you connect to the motor (or light in this case) and the thin wires were just for charging. It looks like you are using the thin wires for everything. I'm no expert though.

  2. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    The white wire is comon wire between cells. As you can see on the balance connector - it has 3 wires: minus, common, plus
    I referenced your post 67 where you are using the balance connector to power the light, with all 3 wires connected. Is connecting the white wire required for the PCB to function correctly?

    I was simply going to do battery with dean's (on main leads) >> PCB with deans on +/- on the PCB. Would this work ok? Nothing would be connected to the com post, where the white wire is.

  3. #78
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    Yes the white wire is required since it is used for measuring the difference between cell 1 and 2. You can power the light with main leads but still you have to connect the white wire to the PCM module (in place of my blue wire)

    Quote Originally Posted by bad andy View Post
    I referenced your post 67 where you are using the balance connector to power the light, with all 3 wires connected. Is connecting the white wire required for the PCB to function correctly?

    I was simply going to do battery with dean's (on main leads) >> PCB with deans on +/- on the PCB. Would this work ok? Nothing would be connected to the com post, where the white wire is.

  4. #79
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    Thick wires are used for high current draw >5A. This light can be powered from the balance leads. Thick wires are also used for charging with max. 40A current together with balance leads which are required for proper charging - they are used to measure each cell alone. They are also used to drain the current from the cell if there are cell differences during charging. So in this case I can used the light as on the above post. I charge the battery using main thick leads and also the thin balance leads for monitoring each cell.

    Quote Originally Posted by varider View Post
    I have a noob question. I thought with RC batteries that you use the thick wires when you connect to the motor (or light in this case) and the thin wires were just for charging. It looks like you are using the thin wires for everything. I'm no expert though.

  5. #80
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    tagged for future ref
    roccowt.
    rocnbikemeld

  6. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    Yes the white wire is required since it is used for measuring the difference between cell 1 and 2. You can power the light with main leads but still you have to connect the white wire to the PCM module (in place of my blue wire)
    Thanks MK, I will probably get some JST connectors to run to the PCB for the light connection, and leave the main leads for charging. Just cleaner that way.

    Ok, next question - has anyone figured out how to disassemble the S6? Mine is only powering a single LED right now and I wanted to take a look inside.

  7. #82
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    You have to unscrew the silver ring at the glass lens - it sits there pretty stiff. The next thing I did not take is probably to unscrew the glossy aluminium reflector since I do not see any other possibilities from the back side of the light head.

    Quote Originally Posted by bad andy View Post
    Thanks MK, I will probably get some JST connectors to run to the PCB for the light connection, and leave the main leads for charging. Just cleaner that way.

    Ok, next question - has anyone figured out how to disassemble the S6? Mine is only powering a single LED right now and I wanted to take a look inside.

  8. #83
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    The back cover unscrews. You can see the switch board, but I don't see a nice way of taking that out.

    The reflector is in there pretty tight. I think it's either bonded, or threaded and bonded.

    If your light is already broken and you are okay with the risk of breaking it completely, try this. With the front bezel removed, push the reflector down hard onto a grippy pad and twist counter-clockwise. The pad should grip the reflector without marring it.

  9. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    Thick wires are used for high current draw >5A. This light can be powered from the balance leads. Thick wires are also used for charging with max. 40A current together with balance leads which are required for proper charging - they are used to measure each cell alone. They are also used to drain the current from the cell if there are cell differences during charging. So in this case I can used the light as on the above post. I charge the battery using main thick leads and also the thin balance leads for monitoring each cell.
    Thanks for the explanation. So you connect both leads to the charger at the same time? I don't know anything about these newer RC batteries, but they look like the cheapest option for powering these lights.

  10. #85
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    The charging process with hobby charger looks like this:
    thick wires are used for charging, thin for - let's say cell inspection. Also bobale mentioned some info in this thread how to handle Lipo properly. I am very pleased with the performance of Lipo with my S6



    Quote Originally Posted by varider View Post
    Thanks for the explanation. So you connect both leads to the charger at the same time? I don't know anything about these newer RC batteries, but they look like the cheapest option for powering these lights.

  11. #86
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    Then it could be threaded and bonded. Do you have some pics of the removed back? I am willing to change the uC and remove the disco mode and also give it some more sensible on/off/mode change.

    Quote Originally Posted by leaftye View Post
    The back cover unscrews. You can see the switch board, but I don't see a nice way of taking that out.

    The reflector is in there pretty tight. I think it's either bonded, or threaded and bonded.

    If your light is already broken and you are okay with the risk of breaking it completely, try this. With the front bezel removed, push the reflector down hard onto a grippy pad and twist counter-clockwise. The pad should grip the reflector without marring it.

  12. #87
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    Well, I tried to look closer at how the back could unscrew? Couldn't see a thing.

    Weird thing is the light started working again. Go figure.

  13. #88
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    After some time passed I figured out that the brown/black PCB cuts off at 2.34V under load - so it is quite dangerous for li-ion and twice as for lipo :-( Have to look around for some PCB that cuts off at 3V.

    I created myself a bit of work more and took apart the light. I cut off some wires, so I have to solder them back (or replace with thicker ones) in near future But this light case can easily take up to full potential of 3 XM-L2 U2 - so >3000 lm is closer to the chinglish specs . Just need to heatsink the driver from KD without strobe, some clicky flashlight switch and some new XM-L2 U2 leds with nice tint

    SKY RAY S6 3xCREE XM-L T6 LED 2500Lumens 4-mode Bike light/ -img_20131110_130310.jpg

    SKY RAY S6 3xCREE XM-L T6 LED 2500Lumens 4-mode Bike light/ -img_20131110_130344.jpg
    Last edited by MK96; 11-10-2013 at 04:17 AM. Reason: added the light inner stuff

  14. #89
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    As I suggested in my previous post I have decided to rework the whole light. I ordered a 30W KD driver without disco mode and now searching for some XM-L2 U2 leds on copper plate for a decent price - I have seen those 1A tint, but I like to have 4C or similar white, not that blueish white Or I'll buy some XM-L2 T6 4C from fasttech, but I would prefer XM-L2 U2. Any suggestions for leds?

  15. #90
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    MK96, can you clarify please: on your second picture, it looks to me that black LED mounting surface inside is an integral part of light's outer case. Am I correct? What is wall thickness (approximately)? Also, is it completely flat, or have some recessions for LED bases?

    P.S. Good luck rebuilding the light!

  16. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    As I suggested in my previous post I have decided to rework the whole light. I ordered a 30W KD driver without disco mode and now searching for some XM-L2 U2 leds on copper plate for a decent price - I have seen those 1A tint, but I like to have 4C or similar white, not that blueish white Or I'll buy some XM-L2 T6 4C from fasttech, but I would prefer XM-L2 U2. Any suggestions for leds?
    Oh heck, just go with the T6 4C....you can always upgrade later. With the right driver this thing is going to rock. ( may I suggest using two XM-L2 T6 neutral bins ( 5000K range ) and one XM-L2 T6 4C... could help lessen the glare )

  17. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    As I suggested in my previous post I have decided to rework the whole light. I ordered a 30W KD driver without disco mode and now searching for some XM-L2 U2 leds on copper plate for a decent price - I have seen those 1A tint, but I like to have 4C or similar white, not that blueish white Or I'll buy some XM-L2 T6 4C from fasttech, but I would prefer XM-L2 U2. Any suggestions for leds?

    Only T6, but really great direct to copper mcpcb.
    Noctigon XM20 MCPCB & CREE XM-L2 T6 4C LED [CREE XM-L2 T6 4C LED] - $6.89 : Led Flashlight-International Outdoor Store

    I think he has a new tint that's not listed.

    Thanks for showing it disassembled.

  18. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by leaftye View Post
    Only T6, but really great direct to copper mcpcb.
    Everything fine, except for "sold out" note...

  19. #94
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    Missed that. Still, ask if there's a new tint not listed.

  20. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Archie- View Post
    MK96, can you clarify please: on your second picture, it looks to me that black LED mounting surface inside is an integral part of light's outer case. Am I correct? What is wall thickness (approximately)? Also, is it completely flat, or have some recessions for LED bases?

    P.S. Good luck rebuilding the light!
    Yes the surface is integral part - that is what I really like and why I decided to pump 3A to the leds t It is thick about 4-5 mm comparing the led plate which is about 2 mm thick. Overall the light head & reflector is quite heavy (as I remember about 300g). The led mounting surface is let's say "flat" but has some uniform circle stripes from manufacturing, but not recessions for 16 or 20 mm baseplate for leds. I read somewhere on CPF that the KD driver heats a lot but not that much using 2S cells and 3 leds in series, so it is quite efficient in this combination. I will attach the driver to the body & give it some thermal compound to let the heat pass away to the thick case. Anyway the Skyray 6T6 on lightmalls and Singfire on fasttech might have the same case.

    Thanks Archie, I will post the result also to beamshots thread but need to fix the light to make shots with the old driver and then with the new one!

    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    may I suggest using two XM-L2 T6 neutral bins ( 5000K range ) and one XM-L2 T6 4C... could help lessen the glare
    Cat, that sound interesting, never heard about such combination.

    Quote Originally Posted by leaftye View Post
    Missed that. Still, ask if there's a new tint not listed.
    Yes, I will try to write them. Thanks Leafteye!

  21. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    Yes the surface is integral part - that is what I really like and why I decided to pump 3A to the leds t It is thick about 4-5 mm comparing the led plate which is about 2 mm thick. Overall the light head & reflector is quite heavy (as I remember about 300g). The led mounting surface is let's say "flat" but has some uniform circle stripes from manufacturing, but not recessions for 16 or 20 mm baseplate for leds.
    Perfect! That way, thermal dissipation is superb. I've seen flashlights of similar design, but never encountered a bike light implementing this till now. If they'll eventually add the polished recessions for the LED bases, and threaded holes for mounting them with thermal paste instead of adhesive compound, the case will probably become an ideal one.

    Anyway the Skyray 6T6 on lightmalls and Singfire on fasttech might have the same case.
    Seems so. On the other hand, 7-LED model have totally different case design (with common pill+reflector assembly inserted into the enclosure), but is also quite well-made one, in terms of cooling.

  22. #97
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    These are 6-led models with probably the same design (maybe I buy Skyray 6T6 and check it). I noticed, that the KD driver is a torch driver, so I also need a clicky torch switch instead.

  23. #98
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    Yes, and this is the reason I've decided not to buy it. Giving the current involved, most switches will fail soon (been there, done that at the age of powerful incandescent torches with 3 - 4A consumption)...

  24. #99
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    Found one here, that can handle up to 10A. But there are lot of microswitches over there.

    Edited: Microswitch can't hold its position, so it is useless in this manner. I went for KAN-028 & OMTEN PBS101C.
    Last edited by MK96; 11-12-2013 at 03:30 PM.

  25. #100
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    I thought it looked like a direct thermal path. Thanks for confirming it. I almost sold this light. I would have regretted that. With a direct thermal path, it's good reason to upgrade the mcpcb's to Noctigons or Sinkpads for an even more direct thermal path and less thermal sage, which will probably result in more lumens with the same amount of current.

    Do you think a sense resister mod will increase current? That's something at least. Hopefully later we'll figure out how to swap the driver to get rid of the blinkie modes and have all LED's on in all modes.

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