Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast
Results 26 to 50 of 110
  1. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    3,666
    Quote Originally Posted by leaftye View Post
    Got a bit of bad news. The battery plug is different than what Magicshine uses. I saw that both chargers output 8.4V, but the Magicshine charged at 1.8A instead of 1A for the SkyRay, so I wanted to use the Magicshine charger. If it was compatible, it would also mean I could immediately try out the charger with my Magicshine battery. This could mean trouble in the long term when I need to replace the battery.
    Easy fix. Buy a MS type extension cord. Cut the plug off the light head and replace it with the MS type plug. Now you can run MS/B-ray/Gemini/Gloworm batteries. Then take the original lamp head plug and the other MS plug, splice them together and make a mini adapter for the original battery. Your done. Takes some minor DIY but it can work.

  2. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    108
    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Easy fix. Buy a MS type extension cord. Cut the plug off the light head and replace it with the MS type plug. Now you can run MS/B-ray/Gemini/Gloworm batteries. Then take the original lamp head plug and the other MS plug, splice them together and make a mini adapter for the original battery. Your done. Takes some minor DIY but it can work.
    I sent a message to the vendor about this. If the vendor doesn't start selling an adapter, I'll solder new plugs onto the head and battery. It's easy, and doesn't cost that much, but I'd rather not you know? I see this as something that will limit sales because some potential customers can't or won't modify their lights, which would make this a pretty dumb design feature. I could almost see this as a sales tactic to force customers to buy their replacement batteries, but they don't sell replacement batteries.

  3. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    108
    Here's a shot that may be hard to make use of. On the left is the Sky Ray S6, in the middle is an Ultrafire HD2010, and on the right is a Dongrui DR-B18. All are their highest modes. The lights look much brighter to the eye, but I cut down the shutter time so the image wouldn't be completely washed out.


  4. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    510
    I have that light, works smoothly. But I wonder, if I can swap the clear glass lens for some wide angle like gemini olympia. The cons seems to be the battery pack giving 7.4V/4400mAh. I will measure the runtime and current draw and post it here. But anyway it is a huge amount of light coming out

    Quote Originally Posted by saypat View Post
    SKY RAY S6 3xCREE XM-L T6 LED 2500Lumens 4-mode Bike light_Bike Light_Electronics Wholesale online

    I've bought flashlights from this company before, he has been very good to us. I don't know anything about this light but came across it this evening and wanted to share it. I just bought a Cree XM-L T6 from E-Bay for $36. If I hadn't bought that, I would have bought this. Maybe another here can shed some light on this....

    p

  5. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    1,244
    My S6 has just arrived. Holy crap this is a big light! This will not be going anywhere near my helmet for fear of crushing it or breaking my neck

    Will have some ride reports within a few days 8)

  6. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    129
    Got mine a few weeks ago, but weather has been crap on ride nights so I've only had one run with it. The High might just as well not even be there. The change in brightness is barely noticeable from Medium. Should probably run it on Medium and conserve battery, which is pretty bad from what I can tell. From full charge before the ride, I got 1:20 run time on high before it stepped itself down to low, then quit altogether 10 minutes later. I recharged the batteries (5-6 hours), let it sit for a week, turned it on and got a minute of run time before it shut off. Plugged the battery pack back on the charger for another hour and everything is fine. I'm going to do some controlled run time tests with a fan and see how it comes out.

    The nylon battery pack holder is obviously a design afterthought. Only one velcro strap and it flops around when you're riding. I replaced it with a better one.

    Beam pattern is good. Very floody but throws out there too. 1, 2 or 3 LEDs on does not really change the beam pattern, it just gets brighter. The O-Ring mount absolutely sucks for bumpy trails, passable for road or soft trails. The mount part on the light itself is just hard plastic with no soft rubber for friction, so you'll need to add a shim or replace it with a better one. Even using the smallest O-Ring, it moves around too much. This should have been constructed with a side (top) switch, as depressing the switch from the rear causes the light to move forward with the lights sheer mass and weight. I Tried rigging up my zip tie perma mount from the Strykr, but the wire placement sucks too - comes out of the bottom of the light right where the mount needs to go. Ended up adding some spacers to make it work, but it's not the best.

    Overall, a very poorly designed light and I'm disappointed. I should know better by now - you get what you pay for. I'm hoping the battery performance improves, but I'm not holding out hope. Bottom line, I would not recommend anyone else buy this light. Cost me $65 shipped, but with additional parts bought to fix the flaws, it's getting closer to $80. For that amount of money, you can find plenty of cheap alternatives that work ok. There have been many positive reviews and happy customers that bought the Sky Ray King. I figured this would have similar quality, but that proved to be wrong.

    My best combination for my type of night riding is a Shadow BL-21 for flood, complemented with a SMO torch for throw.

  7. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    1,244
    I pretty much agree with above ^^. The lighthead is just too massive and heavy to be practical. I'll be trying it tonight (on bars only) but am not expecting much stability. I'll probably have to change to a different type of mount vs. the O-Ring setup, I just can't see it being stable on my trails. We'll find out tonight.

    I also have the 'other' 3x XML lighthead that is available. The much smaller one from this thread: New clone 3 x XML T-6 49.88 shipped and I compared just the beam shots in my backyard the other night. VERY, VERY negligible difference that I could see. I do like the brightness, and beam pattern, but the skyray was only just a hair brighter (though with various lack of quality controls, I could see the difference being more significant in others' experiences). Being a bulkier and heavier light I'd say the other 3x lighthead wins. The skyray is just tremendous, and that is a disadvantage to it.

  8. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    129
    Andy, if you do find a more suitable mount, please post it up. Definitely post your experience from tonight's ride - have a good one!

  9. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    510
    I have this one - quite sturdy and well made. No rubber-like mount, just screws. You can find one that fits oversize too

    Quote Originally Posted by betweenrides View Post
    Andy, if you do find a more suitable mount, please post it up. Definitely post your experience from tonight's ride - have a good one!

  10. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    1,066
    It always suprises me how many people have issues with the O-ring mounts on lights.

    I've never had a problem with movement or shaking, and I ride a rigid! We have some very bumpy, rooty, rocky trails and my lights have never moved.

    Are people with problems using them on skinny 25.4 mm bars?

    I have OS bars, I put one strip of rubber (from an old innertube) around the bar, then the light with O-ring, and never have a problem with movement.

    Switching modes is done with 2 fingers over the front edge of the light, and my thumb pushes the button.

  11. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    129
    Inner tube is a good idea, fightnut; I'll give that a try. I agree on gripping the top of the bezel to counter balance the rear switch, but the point was that Sky Ray could have done a side / top switch similar to the King flashlight. That would have made more sense for a light with this mass.

  12. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    510
    Old tube does not work for me, I gave it a shot Also the o-ring is quite difficult to remove comparing with the cateye mount. I have ritchey pro 25.4 bars

    Quote Originally Posted by fightnut View Post
    It always suprises me how many people have issues with the O-ring mounts on lights.

    I've never had a problem with movement or shaking, and I ride a rigid! We have some very bumpy, rooty, rocky trails and my lights have never moved.

    Are people with problems using them on skinny 25.4 mm bars?

    I have OS bars, I put one strip of rubber (from an old innertube) around the bar, then the light with O-ring, and never have a problem with movement.

    Switching modes is done with 2 fingers over the front edge of the light, and my thumb pushes the button.

  13. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    510
    I was considering that one also, but I thought skyray would have better heat dissipation. The result is that SR S6 dissipates heat very well and so does the 'other' 3 XML clone.

    Quote Originally Posted by bad andy View Post
    I pretty much agree with above ^^. The lighthead is just too massive and heavy to be practical. I'll be trying it tonight (on bars only) but am not expecting much stability. I'll probably have to change to a different type of mount vs. the O-Ring setup, I just can't see it being stable on my trails. We'll find out tonight.

    I also have the 'other' 3x XML lighthead that is available. The much smaller one from this thread: New clone 3 x XML T-6 49.88 shipped and I compared just the beam shots in my backyard the other night. VERY, VERY negligible difference that I could see. I do like the brightness, and beam pattern, but the skyray was only just a hair brighter (though with various lack of quality controls, I could see the difference being more significant in others' experiences). Being a bulkier and heavier light I'd say the other 3x lighthead wins. The skyray is just tremendous, and that is a disadvantage to it.

  14. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    1,244
    results from my testing last night. S6 vs. 'other' 3x tri-clone.

    throw = s6, a little more
    spill = tie, both about the same - very similar beam patterns despite larger size of s6
    heat = tie, both about the same, neither one hot
    battery/runtime = 3x triclone

    my triclone came with a 6400mah battery, supposedly. It went fine throughout the entire ride. The s6 crapped out during the ride, maybe 1.25-1.5 hours in. I like to run my lights on high generally, maybe bring them down a bit during climbs, and off while resting. Presuming both actually came with the claimed 6400mah batteries, the s6 depletes it faster. Maybe it's slightly higher driven, maybe the cells are suckier? I might pull apart the battery to find out if I feel so motivated at some point. Either way with the performance being only negligibly better than the triclone, but the battery being worse, and the added weight of the s6 - I think it won't actually be seeing much use from me on my rides.

  15. #40
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    510
    Regarding no alarm mode by SR S6 I have found som interesting gadgets on ebay:
    this one looks probably ok, this one is similiar and that one who knows Anyway it seems possible to include a batt. monitoring.

  16. #41
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    3,666
    I was just looking over this thread and was wondering....Someone mentioned that the S6 does power down from high to low. Anyone else able to confirm that? Was there any kind of strobe warning before the lamp went out? If not than at least you have the step-down which is better than nothing...consider that the warning.

    For those owning one of these lights you might want to carry a small back-up torch or light on the bars and turn it on when you think the main light is getting low on battery juice. That way when the main light goes out you don't end up running off the trail because the light went out.

    Funny, but the thought of this brought back an old story to mind. Back in the day of Halogen I had just purchased an upgraded Marwi 20watt halogen lamp that was powered by a small flat battery pack. The lamp had two modes, hi and low. Anyway, I'm about an hour in using the lamp, mostly on high with the new lamp bar mounted and my 10 watt Niterider on the helmet. I start down this really steep section of trail that is quite long, very fast and usually a real white-knuckle hoot. I'm seconds into the drop and popping into the big ring... Already my speed is almost beyond my control...suddenly I start seeing this flashing light and I'm like, WTF is that?!! ( ) When the flashing stops the lamp goes completely out leaving me with only the helmet light. This distracts me enough that I start to run off the side of the trail and into some high grass. Now anyone that knows about "high grass", knows that high grass can hide a multitude of dangerous obstacles...anything from ruts, logs, large rocks...etc. When I veered off the trail all I could think was, "OH SH*T"!! If there was a log in that grass I was going to catapult maybe twenty feet at the speed I was going. At moments like this ( < 1 sec ) it's surprising how fast the mind can visualize catastrophe. Thankfully, I didn't hit anything, regained control and made my way down the hill ( with a steady stream of p**s going down my leg.......Ah, the old days..

  17. #42
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    510
    Well my just cuts off w/o warning, but I have alarm clock on my computer, so I can set it up before ride. I use low and medium, there is not much difference between med/hi for me. That is the reason I bought that voltage indicator actually :-)

    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    I was just looking over this thread and was wondering....Someone mentioned that the S6 does power down from high to low. Anyone else able to confirm that? Was there any kind of strobe warning before the lamp went out? If not than at least you have the step-down which is better than nothing...consider that the warning.

    For those owning one of these lights you might want to carry a small back-up torch or light on the bars and turn it on when you think the main light is getting low on battery juice. That way when the main light goes out you don't end up running off the trail because the light went out.

    Funny, but the thought of this brought back an old story to mind. Back in the day of Halogen I had just purchased an upgraded Marwi 20watt halogen lamp that was powered by a small flat battery pack. The lamp had two modes, hi and low. Anyway, I'm about an hour in using the lamp, mostly on high with the new lamp bar mounted and my 10 watt Niterider on the helmet. I start down this really steep section of trail that is quite long, very fast and usually a real white-knuckle hoot. I'm seconds into the drop and popping into the big ring... Already my speed is almost beyond my control...suddenly I start seeing this flashing light and I'm like, WTF is that?!! ( ) When the flashing stops the lamp goes completely out leaving me with only the helmet light. This distracts me enough that I start to run off the side of the trail and into some high grass. Now anyone that knows about "high grass", knows that high grass can hide a multitude of dangerous obstacles...anything from ruts, logs, large rocks...etc. When I veered off the trail all I could think was, "OH SH*T"!! If there was a log in that grass I was going to catapult maybe twenty feet at the speed I was going. At moments like this ( < 1 sec ) it's surprising how fast the mind can visualize catastrophe. Thankfully, I didn't hit anything, regained control and made my way down the hill ( with a steady stream of p**s going down my leg.......Ah, the old days..

  18. #43
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    3,666
    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    Well my just cuts off w/o warning, but I have alarm clock on my computer, so I can set it up before ride. I use low and medium, there is not much difference between med/hi for me. That is the reason I bought that voltage indicator actually :-)
    Never thought about that before. I suppose I could use the stop watch functions on my watch or the alarms on my cell phone but since I only use higher outputs when I need to and turn the lamps off when I stop to rest it would be real hard figuring out where to set an alarm just based on time. Nope the only thing that would work for me would be a voltage alarm hooked directly to the battery. Not sure those designed to work on Li-Po batteries are going to work right on Li-ion.

    The Li-Po alarms ( I think ) are designed to monitor the voltages on the balance wires ( wired to the Li-po battery PCB.) Therefore because it is attempting to balance the cells at no less than 3.3 volts each, if the voltage on any one cell dips below that voltage the alarm goes off. If I'm wrong about that someone please correct me. I'm guessing at this because all the alarms I've looked at mention 2Series setups and the target voltage as 3.3volts (?). The adjustable ones vary a little above that but don't go over 5 volts. Not as simple as I first thought.

  19. #44
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    129
    I just did a controlled run time test with a fan blowing on the S6. Since I've experienced 1:15 run time on a ride using High and since there's so little difference between perceived brightness on High and Medium, I used Medium (2 LEDs) for the test, battery pack fresh off the charger. Brightness started to dip at 1:35, was down to very weak at 1:45 and the light died at 1:50.

    The battery pack supplied with this light sucks pretty bad. I also noticed that sitting for a week from full charge, the pack loses significant charge: The light will only run for a few minutes before turning off.

    I am definitely emailing Ric at Fancy Flashlights/CN Quality to see what he will do.

  20. #45
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    108
    Now I think you guys know why I'm changing out the battery wiring.

    Some of you guys don't like the nylon case. That doesn't bother me at all. I use mine, but it serves no purpose as I keep all my batteries in my frame bag.

    Quote Originally Posted by betweenrides View Post
    The mount part on the light itself is just hard plastic with no soft rubber for friction, so you'll need to add a shim or replace it with a better one. Even using the smallest O-Ring, it moves around too much.
    I ended up getting that replacement mount when I dropped my bike and broke the mount. The new mount might be working better. I already had inner tube wrapped around the bar with the smallest o ring.

    Quote Originally Posted by betweenrides View Post
    I agree on gripping the top of the bezel to counter balance the rear switch, but the point was that Sky Ray could have done a side / top switch similar to the King flashlight. That would have made more sense for a light with this mass.
    I kind of like the button where it is. I can switch it while keeping part of my hand on the grip. A remote switch would be better though.

    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    Also the o-ring is quite difficult to remove comparing with the cateye mount.
    Yes it is. That's very disappointing because that will deter me from removing the light when leaving the bike unattended.

    Quote Originally Posted by bad andy View Post
    Maybe it's slightly higher driven, maybe the cells are suckier?
    I think the cells suck. I use my light sparingly, especially high, but the voltage drop at the end of my rides is alarming. It matches or exceeds my other lights that I use continuously.










    It's throwing more money to fix problems that shouldn't exist, but I'm thinking about getting a Hope Universal mount. That should keep the light in place and make it easier to remove.

    Replacement battery wiring makes alternative batteries possible. I'm thinking about the Xeccon $45 battery. With the mediocrity of the S6 battery, the battery might just give 5-6x times battery life. I might actually be willing to use my S6 all night.

    Is the S6 still worth it at that point? I don't know.
    S6: $69
    Replacement mount: $4
    Replacement battery wiring: $5
    Xeccon 6 cell battery: $45
    Replacement charger: $8

    $131 to make this light work like you think it would by looking at the head. If in actual use it's comparable to the Magicshine MJ-880, I guess it's worth it. Maybe it'd be slightly better if the Hope mount work like I expect. It's a lot of hassle to get there though. If Sky Ray released their light like this for $100, with good bike modes, then I'd call it a steal. For now I'll say it's an okay platform for modding.

  21. #46
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    3,666
    Quote Originally Posted by leaftye View Post
    ...$131 to make this light work like you think it would by looking at the head. If in actual use it's comparable to the Magicshine MJ-880, I guess it's worth it. Maybe it'd be slightly better if the Hope mount work like I expect. It's a lot of hassle to get there though. If Sky Ray released their light like this for $100, with good bike modes, then I'd call it a steal. For now I'll say it's an okay platform for modding.
    I suppose it's true that these lights are cheaply made. I own the Tri-clone ( 3 x XM-L ) from the other thread and it has basically the same issues as the Skyray S6. Still if you want to improve the set-up the money that you spend doing so shouldn't be considered "money down the drain". If you by a new battery just remember that it can be reused if you buy another lamp with compatible connectors.

    The mount is another problem altogether. Looking at the mount compared to earlier versions from Bikeray and MagicShine, the ones on the clone lamps are skinnier and don't have the rubbery grips of the MS/BR versions. This is not good because the tri-clones are heavier and need to be more stable. If you buy a new O-ring mount you have to make sure that the one you buy is made so that the wire exits from the rear ( mine exits from the rear ). I also found that choice of O-ring makes much more of a difference. When I use the red O-rings that came with my Bikerays I noticed that it is much more stable ( although harder to put on ). If you continue to have problems with the O-ring mounts it might be better to just convert using any of the clamp-on style mounts available. That should solve that problem.

    One of the issues that came out in all of this is that "not having an advance warning when the power goes out is a big issue". There needs to be a series of strobe flashes ( or LED indicators ) to warn the rider at least 5 minutes before the light goes out. I consider this so important that I am going to test all of my favorite lamps just to make sure that they all have the strobe warning function.

    If your lamp doesn't have an LED or strobe warning function there's not a lot you can do about it except keep an eye on your watch and have a back-up light going on low when you think the main lamp is nearing the cut-off time. Since I always have a torch on the bars for back-up this is no problem for me. If my main lamp goes out I can switch the torch to a higher mode and I'm good till I get back to the car.

  22. #47
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    225
    [QUOTE=leaftye;9883566]Now I think you guys know why I'm changing out the battery wiring.

    Replacement battery wiring makes alternative batteries possible. I'm thinking about the Xeccon $45 battery. With the mediocrity of the S6 battery, the battery might just give 5-6x times battery life. I might actually be

    I ordered one of these and hopefully will get it by the end of next week. When it comes in I'll reply back and give you my impressions of quality (battery/.bag) and maybe do a runtime with my MS808e lighthead.
    Mole

  23. #48
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    225
    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    I also found that choice of O-ring makes much more of a difference. When I use the red O-rings that came with my Bikerays I noticed that it is much more stable ( although harder to put on )..
    I've noticed this too. I think it's a silicone vs. rubber thing. I wanted to add that it also makes the light easier to adjust vertically. With the rubber you have to rotate the light past shere you want it and tends to move back a little on its own. The silicone is less elastic and more solid and stays were you adjust it much better.
    Mole

  24. #49
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    510
    The indicator measures voltage (so 3.6 li-ion or 3.7 li-pol per cell is not a problem I think). I am going to hook it up between protection and lamp and test this setup.
    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Never thought about that before. I suppose I could use the stop watch functions on my watch or the alarms on my cell phone but since I only use higher outputs when I need to and turn the lamps off when I stop to rest it would be real hard figuring out where to set an alarm just based on time. Nope the only thing that would work for me would be a voltage alarm hooked directly to the battery. Not sure those designed to work on Li-Po batteries are going to work right on Li-ion.

    The Li-Po alarms ( I think ) are designed to monitor the voltages on the balance wires ( wired to the Li-po battery PCB.) Therefore because it is attempting to balance the cells at no less than 3.3 volts each, if the voltage on any one cell dips below that voltage the alarm goes off. If I'm wrong about that someone please correct me. I'm guessing at this because all the alarms I've looked at mention 2Series setups and the target voltage as 3.3volts (?). The adjustable ones vary a little above that but don't go over 5 volts. Not as simple as I first thought.

  25. #50
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    108
    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    I suppose it's true that these lights are cheaply made.
    I like the body of the light just fine. It's the electronics that I don't like, at least those after the LED's. The driver and its UI is a poor match. The wiring is a PITA that's made worse by restricting use to the poor battery that it comes with. The mount could be better, but I could easily deal with it. I'd love it if the head were available separately for less than $30. I haven't taken my head apart yet, so I'm not sure how hard the driver is to swap out.

Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •