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  1. #1
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    short in wiring on Magicshine 1400 unit :(

    I bought the 2300 kit about one year ago, but have only had the ability to use for less than half that time due to the battery recall that occured shortly after purchasing. I have used less than 15 times and last night the 1400 head unit developed a short in the wiring near the connectors. Bummed and have sent an inquiry to geoman thru the website...hoping he can help me out considering the battery problem prevented me from using these much over the past year.

    Anyone have a similar problem? How did you fix?

    Geoman...are you out there...care to respond?
    Thanks,
    Ryan

  2. #2
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    Had the same thing happen with a 900 in June. If I fiddled with the connector just right, I could get it to turn on.

    I ended up cutting off the connector to the light and soldered in half of one of the extension cables that came with my light. Has been working for about 6 months without a problem. The connector for the extension cable looks to be a little more robust and the wire is a larger gauge (as is the connector/cable for the new battery). I took the DIY route because it was relatively fast and easy.

    I believe another person had the same issue before me (cat-man-do, if I remember correctly).

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhxChem View Post
    Had the same thing happen with a 900 in June. If I fiddled with the connector just right, I could get it to turn on.

    I ended up cutting off the connector to the light and soldered in half of one of the extension cables that came with my light. Has been working for about 6 months without a problem. The connector for the extension cable looks to be a little more robust and the wire is a larger gauge (as is the connector/cable for the new battery). I took the DIY route because it was relatively fast and easy.

    I believe another person had the same issue before me (cat-man-do, if I remember correctly).
    I had the same thing happen before and did as Phx did a little DIY and you are back on the road
    I always type in bold cuz I'm blind as a bat
    For the Rich there is therapy!!!! for the rest of us we have Mountain Biking


  4. #4
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    Thanks guys, appreciate the help. I dont have a solder tool and would rather not canibalize my extension cord....hope geoman comes through on this one. If it comes to it, any tips on the above fix?

  5. #5
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    The overall quality, and potential for some problems has been widely discussed - so I won't jump on any bandwagons...

    For those on an extreme budget, Magicshine has been an inexpensive way for a reasonable amount of light for cheap... and has has allowed many to get out on the road/trails!

    But when problems happen, I'm not surprised given the pricepoint. I'm sure Magicshine will slowly make incremental improvements in design and manufactured quality, but in the meantime seems like a certain percentage of users will have some issues to deal with.

    No disrespect to argibson, but since the most expedient fix is to get on over to Harbor Freight or Radio Shack or wherever and get a $8 soldering iron - I'd say that is what should happen next to fix the problem.

    The most I'd expect from Geoman if I were in a similar situation would be the possibility of an extension cable to replace the cannabalized part.

    It's sorta of like an analogy to buying cheap made in China or Pakistan or wherever tools... sometimes they work really well... and sometimes they don't. And when they don't - I don't blame the manufacturer or the retailer. It's pretty clear what they are selling and if I choose to go the cheap route, I should know it may not work out the same as top end gear.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by argibson View Post
    Thanks guys, appreciate the help. I dont have a solder tool and would rather not canibalize my extension cord....hope geoman comes through on this one. If it comes to it, any tips on the above fix?
    I've used a LOT of these molded extension cables in the light-building business, and yes, there will be a small percentage of them where the center conductor was not completely inserted into the solder cup on the connector before the outer coating was molded on. This will result in a solder joint break over time inside the wire, right at the connector. Are you able to make the light come on, then wiggle the wire at the connector and it goes out? Are you confident it's on the light side and not the battery side?

    If you end up needing another extension, just PM me and let me know. I have plenty. $3 + postage. I do a full "pull" test under an electrical load on all my cables before I commit them to a build. Nothing worse than building up a light or battery, only to find out you used a bad connector! If you don't want to fool with it yourself, I can easily make the repair for you (just cover postage). I use heat shrink on each conductor, followed by a layer of butyl rubber (same thing used to hold windshields in a car), followed by a final piece of flexible heat shrink. Makes for a nice waterproof splice.

  7. #7
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    Nice pethelman! Really appreciate the info and offers. Yes, I can get to come on if I wiggle the cable, but it goes out as soon as it gets jolted/moved. I tried the battery with another light and no issue, and by wiggling it feels like the failure is just at the connector on the headlamp side.

    I dont really use my extension cord, so I can canablize it for this fix, just am/was hoping geoman would step up. I do ride nights a few times a week, so really hoping to not have to mail off. I have a heat gun, can use some old tube butyl in b/t two heat shrinks...just no solder tool and not sure of method/procedure. I can buy a cheap solder tool locally...any chance you have a pic or two to graphically show me whats involved? Rep points already given-thanks man.
    Ryan

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by argibson View Post
    Yes, I can get to come on if I wiggle the cable, but it goes out as soon as it gets jolted/moved. I tried the battery with another light and no issue, and by wiggling it feels like the failure is just at the connector on the headlamp side.

    ...any chance you have a pic or two to graphically show me whats involved? Rep points already given-thanks man.
    Ryan
    It does sound as if the problem is with the light head side of the plug ( and hopefully not the light head itself ).

    I've spliced in replacement plugs before but it is never easy. Nor does it come out looking "showroom" afterward. Your best bet would be to buy a "Y"- cord extension and use one of the end plugs on that to replace the broken one on your light head. ( cost maybe $10 ). The real trick is trying to separate the two wires from inside the main housing. To prevent future shorts I will usually off-set the two solder connections. Then cover up the work with shrink tubing and electrical tape. It sure would be nice if someone sold these same style plugs that were "user friendly". By that I mean a plug where you could open the plug and just solder the two wires directly to the interior of the plug itself. Oh how sweet that would be. (** If someone knows where to get something like that NOW would be the time to speak out. )

    pethelman, if there is some way to give argibson a walk-thru on how you would do the fix, I would be interested as well. While it can be said, " You can't teach an old Dog new tricks", I am of course "Cat" oriented and completely driven by curiosity. Your skill when it comes to stuff like this is going to be better than mine.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by argibson View Post
    Nice pethelman! Really appreciate the info and offers. Rep points already given-thanks man.
    In case you didn't know, Pethelman is the mad genius behind the DesignShine light!

    So, you might be able to repay him sometime down the road by buying one of his lights , if and when perhaps, you decide to upgrade to some primo lights.

  10. #10
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    Magicshine cable splice

    Quote Originally Posted by argibson View Post
    Nice pethelman! Really appreciate the info and offers. Yes, I can get to come on if I wiggle the cable, but it goes out as soon as it gets jolted/moved. I tried the battery with another light and no issue, and by wiggling it feels like the failure is just at the connector on the headlamp side.

    I dont really use my extension cord, so I can canablize it for this fix, just am/was hoping geoman would step up. I do ride nights a few times a week, so really hoping to not have to mail off. I have a heat gun, can use some old tube butyl in b/t two heat shrinks...just no solder tool and not sure of method/procedure. I can buy a cheap solder tool locally...any chance you have a pic or two to graphically show me whats involved? Rep points already given-thanks man.
    Ryan
    Thanks guys! Always glad to help out a fellow cyclist!
    I kind of take for granted a job like this, just because I already have all the necessary tools and supplies laying around. At a minimum, you'll need a basic soldering iron, some solder, and two different sizes of heat shrink, all of which is available at Harbor Freight, although, I'm not sure they have the nice flexible heat shrink like I'm using?

    In any case, there are lots of different ways to do it, but a video is worth a thousand words in this case, so I uploaded a quick and dirty video (no editing) last night showing the method that I like to use.

    Here's the link outright:
    Magicshine_wire_splice.mp4 - YouTube

    One of the things that you can do, if you don't have access to some of the butyl rubber seal that I used, is to cut two pieces of the larger heat shrink, one that is about an inch long, and the second piece (similar to what you see in the video) for covering the whole job. That first shorter piece of shrink would just cover the section with the cut-away outer insulation. As a last resort, you could use some electrical tape around the smaller wires to "bulk" it up a bit similar to the rubber seal, before covering the whole job.

    Hope that helps a bit!

  11. #11
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    Nice! Thanks so much for the help. This is such a great community, and I try to give back where I can. I am now back on the night trail and looking forward to a final group night ride tonight...start in Sausalito, up Tam from Mill Valley, down some poach and finish it off with beer at the Pelican in Muir Beach! It is going to be epic and I am really happy to be able to participate now that my second light is back up and working!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by pethelman View Post
    ....In any case, there are lots of different ways to do it, but a video is worth a thousand words in this case, so I uploaded a quick and dirty video (no editing) last night showing the method that I like to use.

    Here's the link outright:
    Magicshine_wire_splice.mp4 - YouTube

    One of the things that you can do, if you don't have access to some of the butyl rubber seal that I used, is to cut two pieces of the larger heat shrink, one that is about an inch long, and the second piece (similar to what you see in the video) for covering the whole job. That first shorter piece of shrink would just cover the section with the cut-away outer insulation. As a last resort, you could use some electrical tape around the smaller wires to "bulk" it up a bit similar to the rubber seal, before covering the whole job.

    Hope that helps a bit!
    Pethelman, I can't begin to thank you enough. When I finished watching the video I just had to laugh. What took you maybe 5-10 minutes would of took me an hour. LOL..

    The main thing I learned from your video was, "Tools are everything"! The tool you have that I was most envious of was the wire stripper you have. I have to get me one of those! The ones I have do nothing but break the wire off half the time. Watching you strip the wires in seconds ( without flaw ) just had me flabbergasted. lol.

    Next time I get me out to Radioshack® I'm definitely going to be seeing if they have one of those fancy-smancy wire strippers! I've been wanting a third hand tool for a while too so might as well get both.

  13. #13
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    Tools

    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Pethelman, I can't begin to thank you enough. When I finished watching the video I just had to laugh. What took you maybe 5-10 minutes would of took me an hour. LOL..

    The main thing I learned from your video was, "Tools are everything"! The tool you have that I was most envious of was the wire stripper you have. I have to get me one of those! The ones I have do nothing but break the wire off half the time. Watching you strip the wires in seconds ( without flaw ) just had me flabbergasted. lol.

    Next time I get me out to Radioshack® I'm definitely going to be seeing if they have one of those fancy-smancy wire strippers! I've been wanting a third hand tool for a while too so might as well get both.
    I totally agree with you... the first time I used those strippers, I was like, "Where have you been all my life?" Completely worth every penny. $15.92 off of Amazon to be exact with free shipping. Just look for:
    "Neiko Tools Ultimate Self-Adjusting Wire & Cable Stripper"

    They're not perfect though. They can't do teflon coated wire, but for everything else, they're really good. Have to use a different tool for the teflon stuff.

    It also looks like "Irwin" has an exact replica. Harbor Freight has a VERY cheap knock off version, but don't waste your time on those. They literally fell apart in my hand the first time I used them.

    Have a great New Year!

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