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  1. #1
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    Review of Ebay: 1800 Lumen CREE XML T6 LED Bicycle HeadLight Lamp

    My first light review:

    Advertised Specs:
    Emitter Type: XML T6 LED Output 1800 lumens
    Modes: High / Low / Strobe (high) with no memory
    Run Time: 180 minutes on High
    Battery pack: 1 x 8.4v Li-Ion 6400mAh Battery Pack
    Battery Charger: 115v with LED indication for Charging (Red) / Full charge (Green)
    Power Warning: Red Low Power behind tail click
    Helmet Strap: O-ring mount
    Head dimension: Light 43mm DIA
    Weight: 118g (lamp head) 200gm battery pack : Total 318gm

    My lighting needs for city commuting at night has always been adequate using a cheap handlebar mounted light. However due to a change in my route I now ride about 10km on paved trials where there is no lighting whatsoever. Ebay offered many of options ranging from cheap flashers to a high end NiteRider Pro kit. I needed robust and bright enough for commuting that wasnít going to cost me a arm and a leg. So I decided to try out one of the Chinese vendors who offered a hard-to-believe 1800 Lumen kit for under $60. I believe this light is a version of the popular Magic Shine lighting system.

    I knew that an output of 1800 Lumen was impossible with the XML T6 with the advertised setup. Still, I figured if the output was half it was still worth $60. After I ordering the light I was expecting it to take at least 4 weeks to arrive from China but I was pleasantly surprised to find it in my mailbox after 7 working days. Apparently the particular vendor operated out of Hong Kong so the shipping time was cut by 1/3rd.

    Kit Contents


    The kit came in a small box which contained the lamp, battery/charge, 2-Orings, Helmet strap/adapter, battery holder. At first sight the body was machined well with matt black anodizing. I was actually surprised with the quality of the workmanship. No burs, machine marks nor blotchy finishing. The threads were smooth and fitting was tight. The Aluminium reflector had a smooth finish instead of the Orange peel texture that was pictured in the ad. The LED was mounted on the board with a large heat-sink which threaded into the body. There was plenty of room in the housing for heat dissipation. The crowned Bezel has 6-points with a nice satin brushed finish. Under the glass lens there is a GITD (Glow in the Dark) silicon O-ring and silicon rubber tail cap. The tailcap switch is a reverse clicky with a LED battery indicator behind it.




    There were no markings on the board that indicated that the emmitter was actually the newest T6 but based on the pattern of the emitter (7-bar grid pattern) and the production date of 20110901 I'm pretty certain it's a XML. I was happy to see a nice blob of thermal paste for heat transfer. On the board all the the solder joints were clean.


    The battery pack appears to be 4 x18650 linked in series and bundled in heat shrink. It's hard to tell if these are protected cells and I didn't want to take off the heat shrink. The cable and connectors pushed together snugly but they lack weather sealed caps which would have been nice. When I plugged in the light I was surprised to find the the batteries already charged. I put it on a volt meter and it measured 7.9V on the 3rd charge. Not the advertised 8.4V. Maybe it needs a break in time

    ** Update **
    Burn Time
    On the 4th full charge the battery reached 8.27V in just over 6hrs. The charger was warm but the battery remained cool the entire time.

    High: 185 mins.
    A full 3+ hours exceeded my expectations. But the lamp got hot after running for 10mins. It was hot enough that I couldn't hold on to it for more then 30seconds. The battery was at normal indoor temperature (22 degrees). I ended up placing the lamp head in between an aluminium sliding door frame to help dissipate the heat.
    The backlit switch remained green the entire time with no low battery warning light.
    ** There definitely is a Red Led but I must have missed it in the final 5 mins juice.

    Low: testing in progress
    Strobe: in progress

    Beam Shots
    The beam was very bright but I donít have a light meter to measure it. The beam is very bright with a hot center with wide spillage. There are some small artifacts in the spot but not very noticable. It has excellent throw qualities but this is not ideal for a bike light. Comparing the beam side-by-side with my EagleTac P20A2 (which pumps out about 220Lm) this light seemed at least twice as bright.

    LEFT: Comparion to an EagleTac P20A2 with Sanyo Eneloops AAs. Spot lens on High.

    Wide Angle Lens
    Definitely a wider flood pattern is need for commuting. I decided to replace the stock lens with an aftermarket wide angle lens from Ebay. The Action Light lens was shipped out very quickly. Thanks Jim. It converted the 10 degree spot beam to a 10 degree high by 30 degree wide flood light. The beam pattern is rectangular in shape.



    Light comparions: Wall light is a CFL 40W Equivalent. The Garage light is a CFL 100 W Equivalent Compared to car headlights it is easily on par with BMW or Lexus HIDs
    I like the volume of light but would have much prefered a warmer light. I find the warmer temperatures giving an more accurate depth perception i.e. better CRI (Color rendering index)

    This might be a DIY project for later (if I find the time to learn how to replace it with a Warmer T5 Emitter).


    You can see the difference between the standard and wide angle pattern.
    Road beam Pattern on High: Spot vs Wide angle


    Trail beam Pattern on High: Spot vs Wide angle

    Mount
    I didnít even bother with the standard mount. A single O-ring didnít seem like very secure system and it doesnít lend itself for quick mounting and removal. So I discarded the mount and replaced it with one from my old Cateye H-24. An spacer plate was needed so I fabricated one from a piece of plexiglass. I drilled two holes for screws and made a channel for the wire. Then I modified the body by drilling/tapping 2 holes 8-32 to which the spacer is bolted on to. I add clear silicone to all holes and gaps to ensure good water resistance.



    Conclusion

    Good: Overall Iím happy with the light. The construction is solid with more then enough output for city communting needs. It reached a full burn time of 3hrs on High. The design and construction is simple which is attractive to tinkerers who plan to modify the light. An excellent value light.

    Bad: The spot light isn't ideal for a bike light so I'd recommend a wide angle lens especially for off trail. It is falsely advertised as 1800 Lm. At best it's probably in the range of 450-550 Lm. The low battery warning is hardly a warning. The red warning goes on for maybe 5 mins and then the light dies. The O-ring friction mount seemed like an after thought. It definitely needs a better mounting system. There was no low battery warning indicator. The battery pouch is adequate but the strap is too long. It could use a second strap so to give a little more support. The option of a warmer T5 would make it almost perfect.

    Time will tell how many cycles the batter pack will last. When it dies I plan to build my own pack.

    At the time of this review the Ebay seller had 12614 feedback and 99.6% +ve
    Iíll update this thread with the Low burn time after I log more hours.
    Enjoy
    Last edited by spartacus001; 01-12-2012 at 10:03 AM.

  2. #2
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    Thanks - great review!

    I am also using the wide angle lens and like the pattern that it creates. I am using a combination of two lights on my handlebar, one with the stock lens and one with the wide angle lens - a lot of light with a great pattern.

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    Nice write up. thanks for sharing.

  4. #4
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    2 lights for redundancy and ideal for the trails.

    Quote Originally Posted by juergenor View Post
    Thanks - great review!
    I am also using the wide angle lens and like the pattern that it creates. I am using a combination of two lights on my handlebar, one with the stock lens and one with the wide angle lens - a lot of light with a great pattern.
    Last edited by spartacus001; 12-29-2011 at 10:27 PM.

  5. #5
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    Very Good Review...

    The only thing that bothered me was the 1800 lumen claim by the vendor. Sorry but you won't get even half that. Maybe 700 to 800 if you're lucky. I'm glad to see the Action wide lens working so well. One light with wide lens on the bars, one spot on the helmet and you're ready for action.

    Ever once in while I still remember the days riding with my 12 watt Marwi halogen on the bars and my Niterider 10watt spot on the helmet. Back then I thought I owned the night even though the total output from both was maybe 400 lumen tops. ...Ahh, those were the days.
    Now just one cheap cloned XM-L lamp beats what I had back then...and for a lot less money! Say what you will about the Chinese cloned lamps. They still have the best bang for the buck factor and give the novice bike rider the ability to safely see at night without breaking the bank.

  6. #6
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    Excellent write-up.

    I picked up the same T6 XML light sytem off of eBay ($45 shipped), although that vendor (dxgame-outlet) makes a somewhat more realistic claim of 900 lumens. Actually, these are probably in the 550-600 lumen range, but they are quite impressive for the price. I run my MJ-836 on the bar of my roadie and get comments from other riders I've approached from behind that they at first thought it was a car.

    I went ahead and ordered an Action wide lens for my MJ-836 on the bars and also a Titan Replacement Reflector (orange peel- also from Action) to smooth out and widen the hot spot of the new T6 XML on the helmet. It would be sweet if they arrived in tomorrow's mail in time for the Thursday night ride here (on a tight, twisty singletrack).

    The nice thing about these and similarly-priced high-output LED light systems is that, for not much more than $100, you can get completely set up with nicely bright bar + helmet lights, wide angle lenses, better reflectors. Life is good.

  7. #7
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    I just bought the exact same light and lens. Loving the power of the light for what it cost, but what did you guys do to keep the lens secure? On mine when I tighten the bezel down all the way the lens is able to move around. Did you use another o-ring or what? Any help would be great. Thanks!
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    If the replacement lense isn't the same thickness as the original, you can either go the o-ring route and put a layer of electrical tape just around the edge.

  9. #9
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    Mine fits pretty snug.

    Did the original lens also fit loosely?

    Behind the reflector there should be a white plastic spacer with the lip side facing the emitter board. If this piece is missing or if it is orientated upside down then your lens' will fit loosely.



    Check this and let us know.

    Quote Originally Posted by deleteyourselph View Post
    I just bought the exact same light and lens. Loving the power of the light for what it cost, but what did you guys do to keep the lens secure? On mine when I tighten the bezel down all the way the lens is able to move around. Did you use another o-ring or what? Any help would be great. Thanks!

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    So I've found a vendor for lights that look exactly like these, but claim only 1600lm, that ships from SF which is nice seeing as I'm in San Jose. My only question is do I find an OP reflector somewhere (not sure where to start really) for the one I'm going to mount on my head? I really like the width of the beam from that Action LED lens you added so I'll definitely be ordering one of those as well.

  11. #11
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    Talk to Jim.
    It looks too shallow but there's a long shot that Action Lights MS 808 OP Reflector may be modified to fit.
    Last edited by spartacus001; 12-31-2011 at 08:21 PM.

  12. #12
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    ** Edit ** I Added some burn time numbers

  13. #13
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    I'll add a couple of comments.

    Most of these MS knock-offs use a plain glass lens that is thicker than the tempered glass lens used by MS. The Wide angle lens is made to replace the tempered glass lens so you need to take up the extra space. Wrapping the edge of the lens with electrical tape is a good solution or you can use a thicker O-ring from the hardware store or cut a gasket from a milk jug or some other waterproof material.

    Claiming 1600 or 1800 Lumens says something about the integrity of the vendors selling these. (putting it nicely)

    For just a few dollars more you can get a quality Gemini P7 Titan with a Samsung 5200mAh battery pack.

    Jim Harger
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
    www.action-led-lights.com

  14. #14
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    what brand

    what brand the torch is? The appearance is like XECCON S11. But the reviewed bike light is fiitted with T6, While XECCON S11 is fitted with ssc-p7.
    Last edited by XecconLight; 01-05-2012 at 08:20 PM.
    Xeccon: Stay Safe, Stay Ahead

  15. #15
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    Can any of you guys post links of the exact light you bought off Fleabay please?

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    As Jim at Action noted earlier, claiming 1800 lumens from a single T6 XM-L is more than marketing hype. It's deceptive advertising. It's the same MJ look-a-like light system the U.S. seller lists at 900 lumens (which I think is still stretching it a tad).

    Also, why order the same light from Hong Kong for $54 when you can get it at $45 shipped from California and at your door in just a few days and much less hassle returning it if you get one that's DOA?

    I ended up spending a few bucks more for the wide angle lens and orange peel reflector (both from Action LED). Both really help the illumination pattern for this light.

  19. #19
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    Before purchasing this light I had not been active on these forums and reading up on the latest lighting trends so this is my first 'serious' lighting system.

    I was curious about this light because no one had written a comprehensive review with actual comparisons- which I think we need to see more of here so that we have informed choices. I love the comprehensive way that this guy (selfbuilt) does his review of tactical lights over on candlepowerforums.com
    Check it out. Selfbuilt's Flashlight Review Site

    Claimed Lumens really don't mean much to me until I see comparisons or numbers. Hence this was the inpetus for preparing this light review.

    Plus the cost of US Magic shine would have been on par with offshore if you add the shipping costs to Canada.

    I will make updates about this light as I ride through the winter.
    Whoo Hoo ! 5 degrees C in Toronto Today!!

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by spartacus001 View Post
    Before purchasing this light I had not been active on these forums and reading up on the latest lighting trends so this is my first 'serious' lighting system.
    I really didn't mean to criticize your selection of that seller for this light. Sorry if it came across that way. The review you took the time to do was outstanding and appreciated.

    What I said was more to steer FueledByPBR towards a deal on this particular light from a U.S.-based seller (vs. Hong Kong) that was more realistic in their lumen claims.

    One and only time I bought anything from a Hong Kong eBay seller was a 59cm steel roadie frame. When it arrived, it was obvious they had stored it w/o treatment in a humid environment. There was significant surface rust and even a small bit of pitting on the inside of the seat tube and BB. No way I was going to build that one up. I eventually got my money back, but it was not as simple and straightforward as it should have been.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by PinkFloyd View Post
    As Jim at Action noted earlier, claiming 1800 lumens from a single T6 XM-L is more than marketing hype. It's deceptive advertising. It's the same MJ look-a-like light system the U.S. seller lists at 900 lumens (which I think is still stretching it a tad).

    Also, why order the same light from Hong Kong for $54 when you can get it at $45 shipped from California and at your door in just a few days and much less hassle returning it if you get one that's DOA?

    I ended up spending a few bucks more for the wide angle lens and orange peel reflector (both from Action LED). Both really help the illumination pattern for this light.
    i am looking at going the shipped from us ebay route for a few of these lights, probably 2 on the bars, 1 on my helmet.
    my question is are you using the orange peel reflector AND the wide angle lens in the same light? i am thinking i would leave the helmet light alone, and go with either the lens, OR the reflector for the 2 bar lights, but both? is that necessary?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Der Juicen View Post
    i am looking at going the shipped from us ebay route for a few of these lights, probably 2 on the bars, 1 on my helmet.
    my question is are you using the orange peel reflector AND the wide angle lens in the same light? i am thinking i would leave the helmet light alone, and go with either the lens, OR the reflector for the 2 bar lights, but both? is that necessary?
    My bar light (MJ-836) already had the orange peel reflector, so I just added the Action wide-angle lens. My helmet light is the eBay T-6 XML to which I only added the MJ-808 replacement reflector to soften the spot and make it a little larger. I'm quite happy with the wide/spot combo.

  23. #23
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    No offense taken PinkFloyd. The Cree XML has really allowed for affordable high output lights. I can't wait to see this technology develop in the next couple of years.

    Having 3 lights will give you around 1500 Lm -plently of light on the trail.
    This is what I'd do:

    Helmet: Throw light softened with an OP reflector
    Bar1: Flood light with Wide angle lens
    Bar2: Stock Throw light

  24. #24
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    Is the T6 really better than P7?
    Dxgames has both for the same price....

  25. #25
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    ....well it depends what you mean by better.
    The light beam and output will be affected by parameters such as battery type, the logic board, lens and reflector. Given all things equal the T6 is the newest emmiter and is more efficient LED with better output.

    From what I read, the P7 gives you typically 700 lm at 10W, while the XM-L is typically over 910 lm at 10W
    This difference will be noticable if you put them side by side, but not if you look at one, then an hour later look at the other.

    The LED technology is advancing very quickly so I'm sure the T series will probably be obsolete in a couple of years.

  26. #26
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    I ordered the same light from a different Ebay seller, it took about a week to arrive from Hong Kong. The box it arrived in had no padding and the light set was crammed in there tight. Mine arrived with the bezel a little beat up, it looks to be damage from before the item was shipped. Also when I opened up the light casing there was a small shard of metal from the machining process. Other than those items the light and components looked good, neither of the defects really affect the performance so I probably won't send it back or complain. I might see if I can get a replacement bezel but I'm not to worried about it.

    I haven't taken it on a ride yet, but just flashing it around the yard it works great. I can't really compare it to anything meaningful but it is leaps and bounds brighter than what I was using (a Blackburn Mars light and Prince Tec Headlamp) and for the price I paid I am satisfied.

    I added the wide angle lens also, which I am glad I did. The spot was pretty intense and a little discouraging.

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    Very good review, thanks.

    I'm thinking of 2 of these, one with a wide angle lens on the bar and normal on the helmet. Does anyone have a trail beam shot of this combination as looking at the posters trail beam shots the wide lens seems to have 2 brighter spots either side of the centre of the trail but the standard light has good throw down the middle of the trail.

    I think 2 would give a good overall beam output.....
    Last edited by Gav888; 01-13-2012 at 12:50 AM.

  28. #28
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    Yeah. I does look that way but the two humps or bright spots on the trial is an illusion.
    It only appears brighter because the light is reflecting off the pile of leaves and absorbed by middle ground. The wide lens throws a relatively even beam in the shape of an hotdog with wide spillage.

    Yes. For trail riding, like you, I'd add pure throwere on my lid.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gav888 View Post
    Very good review, thanks.
    ...trail beam shots the wide lens seems to have 2 brighter spots either side of the centre of the trail but the standard light has good throw down the middle of the trail.

    I think 2 would give a good overall beam output.....

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by spartacus001 View Post
    Yeah. I does look that way but the two humps or bright spots on the trial is an illusion.
    It only appears brighter because the light is reflecting off the pile of leaves and absorbed by middle ground. The wide lens throws a relatively even beam in the shape of an hotdog with wide spillage.

    Yes. For trail riding, like you, I'd add pure throwere on my lid.
    Cheers for clarifying, about to order them now so perfect timing

    How is the light a few weeks in, still happy with it?

  30. #30
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    So far, so good.
    The subzero temperatures has kept the light running very cool on the high setting.
    But there's 4" of snow on the ground today so this might be it for me until the spring thaw.

    I know I'm just being paranoid but I just started to worry clicky switch.
    The tail clicky on my cheap DX flashlight is starting to fail me after less then 200 cycles.
    Yes. I'm paranoid

    Let us know your experience.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gav888 View Post
    Cheers for clarifying, about to order them now so perfect timing

    How is the light a few weeks in, still happy with it?

  31. #31
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    Seeing as there is so much talk about our lens I thought I'd add another use for it that one customer found. If you want to change your beam into more of a traditional flood that is both wide and tall, take 2 of the lenses and put them back to back at 90˚ to each other. (smooth sides together) It will change a 10˚ spot into a 30˚x 30˚ square. They found it was a great pattern for running or XC skiing, etc. but it may suit some riders also.

    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
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  32. #32
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    I have this link for the lens Wide Angle Lens for Magicshine, Lupine and Gemini Bike Lights | eBay but its a 39mm lens, I have had a nose around action led lights site:

    Reflector - Action-LED-Lights — MJ-808/808E/Titan Replacement Reflector

    Lens - Action-LED-Lights — Wide Angle Lens

    Will these fit these lights, there is no sizes for these and the info is sketchy for the adverts for the lights themselves, also is there any preference to go with Orange Peel or a Wide Angle len for a flood light?
    Last edited by Gav888; 01-13-2012 at 05:14 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gav888 View Post

    Will these fit these lights, there is no sizes for these and the info is sketchy for the adverts for the lights themselves, also is there any preference to go with Orange Peel or a Wide Angle len for a flood light?
    I think you're over thinking it.
    You can get both of these for less than a cup of coffee at Starbucks...

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    Quote Originally Posted by spartacus001 View Post
    So far, so good.
    The subzero temperatures has kept the light running very cool on the high setting.
    But there's 4" of snow on the ground today so this might be it for me until the spring thaw.

    I know I'm just being paranoid but I just started to worry clicky switch.
    The tail clicky on my cheap DX flashlight is starting to fail me after less then 200 cycles.
    Yes. I'm paranoid

    Let us know your experience.
    Well the lights arrived at last, opened the box being all excited like a kid at xmas, first impression I was surprised how small they where, then turned the light round and there was an orange peel reflector, hang on I though, looked closer and there is a P7 LED installed........ The guy sent me 2 P7's and not 2 XML's

    Now waiting for the replacement lights!

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    That sucks man.
    Sorry to hear about your experience.
    Maybe you can negotiate keeping the OP reflector as concilation

    Which vendor did you use?

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    Quote Originally Posted by spartacus001 View Post
    That sucks man.
    Sorry to hear about your experience.
    Maybe you can negotiate keeping the OP reflector as concilation

    Which vendor did you use?
    Tempting to keep the OP reflector lol, it was a guy off eBay (no really! )
    Last edited by Gav888; 01-22-2012 at 01:17 AM.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    Seeing as there is so much talk about our lens I thought I'd add another use for it that one customer found. If you want to change your beam into more of a traditional flood that is both wide and tall, take 2 of the lenses and put them back to back at 90˚ to each other. (smooth sides together) It will change a 10˚ spot into a 30˚x 30˚ square. They found it was a great pattern for running or XC skiing, etc. but it may suit some riders also.

    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
    Jim, thanks for the tip. I just wanted to let you know that the post got noticed. Not that I need something for more flood but for curiosity's sake I almost feel like buying a couple of these lenses just to see what this would look like.

    In keeping with this line of thought I wish someone would make lenses for torches that could provide the same kind of beam pattern as the Action lenses. As it stands, the only thing available for torches that I'm aware of is frosted lenses which tend to waste a lot of light so really not the same thing.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Jim, thanks for the tip. I just wanted to let you know that the post got noticed. Not that I need something for more flood but for curiosity's sake I almost feel like buying a couple of these lenses just to see what this would look like.

    In keeping with this line of thought I wish someone would make lenses for torches that could provide the same kind of beam pattern as the Action lenses. As it stands, the only thing available for torches that I'm aware of is frosted lenses which tend to waste a lot of light so really not the same thing.
    If your torch happened to have a 39mm lens it would certainly work. If it's smaller and your willing to do a little work, (as I suspect most readers of this thread are willing to do) you could grind it down to the proper size.
    Jim Harger
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    Woops....wrong thread....
    Last edited by matchpoint; 01-20-2012 at 03:11 PM.

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    Last night i finally ordered one of the ebay lights, one with a red bezel shipped from brooklyn. Should be here in time for next wed night ride. I also ordered the OP reflector and wide angle lens from action to see the real life differences. This will be a temporary light until i build my own!

  41. #41
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    Finally got the XML T6 lights, OMG these are good lights, so bright!!
    Last edited by Gav888; 01-22-2012 at 01:15 AM.

  42. #42
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    Glad they resolved the lights for you
    How would you say they compared to the P7?

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    Great Light but had trouble finding a place to put the Battery Pack when I had the light mounted on mjy helmet. I found a great compact mini backpack listed on ebay. It is perfect for carrying the battery pack as well as a few esential items such as cell phone, wallet or credit card, or spare tube and tools, etc. Search on ebay for Bicycling compact Backpack or Cycling Mini Backpack. Very reasonable price and free shiping.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry T. View Post
    Great Light but had trouble finding a place to put the Battery Pack when I had the light mounted on mjy helmet.
    Get a Camelbak Rogue. Camelbak Rogue 70 oz. Hydration Pack - 2011 Model

    Top zipper pocket is perfect for holding the battery pack for your helmet light.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry T. View Post
    Yeah a camelback or other hydration unit usually works but when I ride in the fall and winter I don't use one. The mini compact backpack available on ebay costs less and also has room for items like a cell phone, a lightweioght jacket, or a spare tube and tools.
    Here in Texas, you need a camelback even in the fall/winter. It hit 72 today.

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    This is a better deal

    Yeah a camelback or other hydration unit usually works but when I ride in the fall and winter I don't use one. The mini compact backpack available on ebay costs less and also has room for items like a cell phone, a lightweioght jacket, or a spare tube and tools.

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    I usually drop the battery into a jersey pocket or jacket pocket. For me it's easier that way when I take off the pack for a rest stop or any other reason.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry T. View Post
    Yeah a camelback or other hydration unit usually works but when I ride in the fall and winter I don't use one. The mini compact backpack available on ebay costs less and also has room for items like a cell phone, a lightweioght jacket, or a spare tube and tools.
    Another thing that works quite well ( as long as you don't have too big of a gut ) is the fanny pack. That is as long as you don't mind the cord going down your back. Not too many people use fanny-packs anymore since the Camelback / backpack style hydration packs came along but before then everyone used them.

    Not sure I would go with the ebay thing. Some items you just have to see, inspect and try on before buying and a backpack would be one of them.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by spartacus001 View Post
    How would you say they compared to the P7?
    Funny you mention that - eBay XML T6 vs P7 Beam Review

  50. #50
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    Something else anyone buying one of these cheap imitation MJ808s needs to consider, there are dozens if not more small companies that have jumped on the LED bike light band wagon. If you have been to the Shenzhen industrial district ,or really any town in China, the streets are lined with little 20 ft wide shops, many with a couple of CNC lathes in them. Every body and their brother hears that there's good money in making bike lights so they give it a go. The components are easy to pick up at the Electronics Mart (heaven for any DIY guy). When you see all these listings on E-Bay that all look like the same light they may of may not be the same. If their making up a number for the output (1800 lumens - oh come on now) then if they claim a bin for the LED it may or may not be true. They may or may not even know what a bin is. If one XM-L is way brighter than a given P7, the XM-L may be a T6 bin and the P7 may be a K bin. The batteries are probably the cheapest available, the wire may be finely stranded for repeated bending or it may be like the early MS lights that broke at the bend points after a few months. The connectors may or may not be rated for the current involved. (MS went though that problem early on too) As you have found some come with a OP reflector and some with a smooth. When I was last at the Electronics Mart there were half a dozen vendors there selling completed lights.
    In short, when you talk about "THE" E-Bay 1800 lumen light you are really talking about "A" E-Bay light.
    I won't say Magicshine is the greatest company. Anybody who has dealt with them will tell you it's a pain in the behind. But they are trying to build a good light with consistent quality. They have brought a lot of production in house (like the charger) because they couldn't get consistent performance from purchased ones. Add to that the 100% testing that any good light vendor does and in house warranty, and you can be fairly certain of what your getting and you know your money won't be wasted.

    Jim Harger
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    Jim Harger
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    Just to add to the review.

    I have just done a battery test on high from fully charged (8.34v) to the light turning off and the battery at 0v it lasted 4hrs 22min!! I didn't change the settings or anything I just turned it on high and left it running next to an open window to keep it cool.

    Temp wise, it didn't get too warm that I couldn't hold it and the battery stayed cold the whole time.

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gav888 View Post
    Just to add to the review.

    I have just done a battery test on high from fully charged (8.34v) to the light turning off and the battery at 0v it lasted 4hrs 22min!! I didn't change the settings or anything I just turned it on high and left it running next to an open window to keep it cool.

    Temp wise, it didn't get too warm that I couldn't hold it and the battery stayed cold the whole time.
    When you say 0v, I hope you meant "until cut off" because I'm sure you are aware that running a Lithium based battery down to 0v would be catastrophic. O_o

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    Sorry, until the light went off that should have been, rather than 0v. Just curious but what would happen if it went to 0v, say I dont use the lights for months over summer, will the batterys be knackered?

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gav888 View Post
    Sorry, until the light went off that should have been, rather than 0v. Just curious but what would happen if it went to 0v, say I dont use the lights for months over summer, will the batterys be knackered?
    If the battery is like most protected packs, it would disable itself. If a Li-ion battery is to go to 0 volts there is a high probability that it will form internal shorts that could lead to a runaway reaction when it's charged. (read that as fire) The best condition to store a battery in is with a 60-70% charge and in a cool, dry place. You can even keep it in your refrigerator if you won't catch to much hell from your spouse. Then check it every few months to be sure it still has a reasonable amount of charge in it. If the light you have has a fuel gauge in like the MJ-808, then it should light up blue or yellow. If it's red give it a 1 hour charge.
    For a more complete explanation see Battery Care

    Jim Harger
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    Jim Harger
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  55. #55
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    A good quality Li-ion battery also has a self discharge rate of less than 10% per year so unless you store it with a short in the system you should be ok (but it is a good idea to check it periodically). Heat causes the battery to oxidize reducing its capacity, that is why it is recommended that you store it in a cool place when it is going to be a while between uses.

    Josh
    Open Light Systems

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    i just received this light in the mail today.

    eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices


    great fit and finish, the charcoal/grey color of the body and the anno red match perfect with colors on my bike, the smooth reflector is quite a tight spot so i started playing with the OP reflector and wide angle lens that i got from Action as well.

    well the OP reflector has a lif on it keeping it from sitting inside the housing far enough and it created a wider significantly wider hot spot, but it had way too many artifacts to leave it alone. so... i took the OP reflector to the belt sander and sanded off the lip to get it farther into the housing and now there are no artifacts. in all the excitement i forgot to take before pictures of the reflector.

    anyways, the smooth reflector with wide angle lens just widens the spot, dont think it would be good at night, but with the OP and the wide angle i can see it being pretty awesome for my bar light. first night ride with my own light will be wed.

    when it gets dark and i have a chance i will take pics of beam shots with all the different lens/reflector combos.

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    Wide angle lens arrived today, will try and get out soon to test it

    Also does anyone have a guide or any tips on making these waterproof?

    Ive already wrapped electric tape round the exposed ends of the battery pack as it was cardboard by the looks of it so they are now sorted, but need to do the rest....

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gav888 View Post
    Wide angle lens arrived today, will try and get out soon to test it

    Also does anyone have a guide or any tips on making these waterproof?

    Ive already wrapped electric tape round the exposed ends of the battery pack as it was cardboard by the looks of it so they are now sorted, but need to do the rest....
    Don't know if you can make these waterproof but you can sure help it out some by using some good bike grease on the threads where the front screws on. Maybe a dab too on the screw that holds the mount ( bottom ). I would also cover the button switch 3/4 of the way with electrical tape. Just enough to repel water yet allow a little of the indicator light to be seen.

  59. #59
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    I Would actually use a bit os clear silicone around the edge of the with, electrical tape wouldnt do much in that location. Also sme silicone around where the wire goes into the housing then grease on the mount screw threads and bezel threads might help along with the orings that are already there. If you want to grease the orings use a silicone based grease not petroleum so they dont swell.

  60. #60
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    so i went for my first ride with my light tonight and... WOW!!! this thing kicks ass!
    the first couple night rides a friend let me use one of his magic shine lights, i believe it has the P7.
    i had it mounted on the bars and it got me through the ride.
    with this new XML light w/ OP reflector and the Action wide angle lens it blew that light out of the water! when shining the light at a wall you see some artifacts from the ridges in the lens but you dont even notice them when riding. lights up the trail plenty for this regular wed night ride.

    the only time i felt like i would have LIKED more throw was on a long steep descent, otherwise even some of the faster flowy stuff the throw was fine. also once we got into some tight twisty stuff i would have liked a light on my helmet for looking around.

    I will definitely be adding more to my setup, one on my helmet with just the OP reflector, and then maybe the same thing added to the bars for the throw.

    as for battery... it was a 2 hour ride and at the "check points" for other riders to catch up (average ride group of 15) i would turn the light off, and when we were climbing the low setting was plenty.
    maybe when i add another light i will do a full ride with it on high and see how it does.

    I am super stoked on this light!

    no time for beam shots tonight, but soon...

  61. #61
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    Finally got myself out in the forest for a ride (having only done road rides recently) and with the wide angle lens on the bars and a spot on the helmet its plenty of light for my rides, this includes technical and fast sections

    A word of causion though, the standard o ring bracket attached to the light isn't very strong, I broke mine in 2 last night over some rough terrain on the bar mounted light! I had the small o ring on a std size bar, so fitted ok and seemed tight enough....

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gav888 View Post
    Finally got myself out in the forest for a ride (having only done road rides recently) and with the wide angle lens on the bars and a spot on the helmet its plenty of light for my rides, this includes technical and fast sections

    A word of causion though, the standard o ring bracket attached to the light isn't very strong, I broke mine in 2 last night over some rough terrain on the bar mounted light! I had the small o ring on a std size bar, so fitted ok and seemed tight enough....
    ....I'm very sorry to hear about your misfortune but admittedly, your story did make me laugh.
    Please forgive me. It's just that no one has ever complained about the mount itself breaking. That is a first. Hopefully you still have the pieces and perhaps some good glue might fix the problem....

    Anyway, I believe some of the vendors here sell those plastic O-ring brackets. I know that BikerayUSA does, maybe Action LED Lights as well. Should just be a couple bucks.

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    ....I'm very sorry to hear about your misfortune but admittedly, your story did make me laugh.
    Please forgive me. It's just that no one has ever complained about the mount itself breaking. That is a first. Hopefully you still have the pieces and perhaps some good glue might fix the problem....

    Anyway, I believe some of the vendors here sell those plastic O-ring brackets. I know that BikerayUSA does, maybe Action LED Lights as well. Should just be a couple bucks.
    LOL thats ok, made me laugh as well. I'm not having much luck with these lights, not able to glue it as the other half is in the mud somewhere...

    Still, it's only a £30 light so things like this I can live with, if it was a £200 light it would be a different matter!

    I was showing off the beam to some of the regular night riders I was out with, they have lights like MJ7872, Hope Vision 4 etc etc, they were all impressed with the beam combination I use, and only £60!!

    For the money you could get 4 and still be quids in!

    Tempted to get this mount - Action-LED-Lights — Bar Mount, Clamp-on instead but I will see what is in the garage first, might be able to make something up that is stronger...

    Also found this - Lupine Lamp Unit Handlebar Mount - From £11.99 - Rutland Cycling but at £12 I would rather by another light!

    And this post looks interesting - BikeRadar.com • View topic - Modifed Magicshine P7
    Last edited by Gav888; 02-01-2012 at 05:42 AM.

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gav888 View Post
    Tempted to get this mount - Action-LED-Lights — Bar Mount, Clamp-on instead but I will see what is in the garage first, might be able to make something up that is stronger...
    Not that I wouldn't mind selling it to you but for you EU readers the clamp-on quick release mount is also available from Magiclight-UK as is our wide angle lens
    Jim Harger
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    Cheers Jim, already got your wide angle lens, but forgot the website to get the bracket

  66. #66
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    Hey Gav,

    Glad to see your lights working out for you
    Any chance for some beam shots of your set-up?

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    Same light and died about a week and half ago. Though ggrainy you can see the melting of the connectors.


  68. #68
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    Pretty tough to see what is going on in that picture. Can't pick out the melting or the connectors. Can you try another picture?


    ***

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    Quote Originally Posted by scar View Post
    Pretty tough to see what is going on in that picture. Can't pick out the melting or the connectors. Can you try another picture?


    ***

    Noticed this when I pulled it apart. Looks like to connectors melted. But without another unit hard to confirm,



    Other side of the area in question.

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    how long is the battery cable and light cable combined?

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    I also bought this light from one of the more-or-less random/equivalent ebay sellers.

    Initially I was blown away by the brightness & apparent build quality, as well as value. $50 seems cheap for such a torch.

    It lasted about 10 minutes into a night ride & died. The battery had full voltage, and the indicator led was still lit green. I contacted the seller, who offered to refund my money after I returned the light to China. At $15 shipping, minimum, I opted to just keep the thing and mod it instead. Lesson learned.

    Anyway, I tore it apart completely, replaced the driver board with a $6 ~1000mA 3.7V one from KD, and it works again. Some modding of the heatsink was required, since my new board is smaller diameter than the original one. I also tore open the battery pack & re-wired it to be parallel to produce the required output. It was my first mod attempt, and I'm now motivated to do more. I can confirm that the battery pack has some sort of circuitry between the end of the wire & the batteries, but I'm not enough of an engineer to know what it is.

    The wire on my unit was cheap--very easy to break the insulation on the inner wires after stripping the outer sheath. Overall I now see why these lights cost only $50. If it were not fun to mod them, or if I just wanted a working light, I'd be bummed about the experience.

  72. #72
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    Yep, undoubtedly the cheap generic Chinese stuff has poor quality control. Only goes to show that you get what you pay for. Still, for the price sometimes it's worth taking the chance.

    Last night I was doing some major web surfing and ended up looking at a couple items on ebay. For the most part I don't do the ebay thing. I have to admit though, there is so much stuff at rock-bottom pricing it is tempting. A while back I said I wouldn't buy on ebay. Now I might have to eat those words. Last night I saw a cheap XM-L bike light with 2-cell battery for about $24. No, I'm not going to buy it but is an example of the kind of deals that you see. At that price you can buy two. If one goes up you send it back but you still have one. This is the same strategy I use when I buy cheap torches. If it turns out both work fine you can almost always sell one to a friend. If it lasts a year you got your money's worth.

  73. #73
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    I would be interested to see what someone would say if their cheap-o light died in the middle of a ride. Seriously, spend a whopping ~$30 more and get a Magicshine that has a good track record. I am not saying that MSs are as nice as say a Baja, but come on, why even mess with this eBay crap?
    Last edited by TiGeo; 03-19-2012 at 01:14 AM.
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  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by PinkFloyd View Post
    Get a Camelbak Rogue. Camelbak Rogue 70 oz. Hydration Pack - 2011 Model

    Top zipper pocket is perfect for holding the battery pack for your helmet light.
    Second that! It's exactly where I keep mine. Love this light!
    Please donate to IMBA or your local IMBA chapter. It's trail karma.

  75. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    I would be interested to see what someone would say if their cheap-o light died in the middle of a ride. Seriously, spend a whopping ~$30 more and get a Magicshine that has a good track record. I am not saying that MSs are as nice as say a Baja, but common, why even mess with this eBay crap?
    Well, yeah...I have to agree for the most part. Buying from a reliable vendor is "So" much smarter. But like I said before, If you have more than one and one fails you still come out on top. Personally I always ride with at least two lights. Basically it's the smart thing to do. Add to that I always carry an emergency torch which could also function as a bike light if somehow both bike lights malfunctioned on the same ride ( although not likely to happen ). If you ride night on a regular basis you learn to be prepared.

  76. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Personally I always ride with at least two lights. Basically it's the smart thing to do. Add to that I always carry an emergency torch which could also function as a bike light if somehow both bike lights malfunctioned on the same ride ( although not likely to happen ). If you ride night on a regular basis you learn to be prepared.
    I've had three lights "not work" for me on a commute home (on fire trails through pitch black bush). The first was my Dinotte that ran on AAs. I dropped the battery holder while getting it ready for the ride and it would no longer hold the batteries. So I then wrapped my P7 torch around the handlebars and started riding only for its battery to run flat about 1/2 way through the ride in the darkest section. I then wrapped my Princeton Tec Apex headlamp around my helment and set off.

    This was the first time I used the Apex on the bike and I thought I I'd badly overestimated how bright it was as it was very difficult to see much beyond the front wheel. It was only when I got home that I realised I was running it on it's lowest setting.

    All of these were of course my fault, and I guess it shows I really need at least 4 lights for a night ride.

    Tim

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wombat View Post
    All of these were of course my fault, and I guess it shows I really need at least 4 lights for a night ride.

    Tim
    i think you just need to learn your equipment, and be better prepared with charged batteries, and or spares if running AA's. you really dont NEED 4 lights with you.
    Juice

  78. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wombat View Post
    I've had three lights "not work" for me on a commute home (on fire trails through pitch black bush). The first was my Dinotte that ran on AAs. I dropped the battery holder while getting it ready for the ride and it would no longer hold the batteries. So I then wrapped my P7 torch around the handlebars and started riding only for its battery to run flat about 1/2 way through the ride in the darkest section. I then wrapped my Princeton Tec Apex headlamp around my helment and set off.

    This was the first time I used the Apex on the bike and I thought I I'd badly overestimated how bright it was as it was very difficult to see much beyond the front wheel. It was only when I got home that I realised I was running it on it's lowest setting.

    All of these were of course my fault, and I guess it shows I really need at least 4 lights for a night ride.

    Tim
    Besides what Mr. Juice said ( and I agree with him ) none of what you said had to do with the lights themselves malfunctioning which was the subject at hand. ( Also, two of your lights were not bike lights ) You also mentioned that you had a P-7 torch that only got you half way home. My P-7's will go 3 hrs on mid-mode so either yours had a half dead battery when you left or you have a single mode ( high ) P-7 torch. You didn't mention a spare battery which if you're using torches is a very big "must have". At least the Apex got you home. Some light is better than no light at all. I have a 30 lumen single mode AA torch sitting around gathering dust. It's not real bright but I could get out of the woods with it if I had to.

    Luckily for me I have much better stuff now. My current back-up emergency torch is a 3 mode AA XP-E torch that is also my daily EDC pocket torch. On high about 150-175 lumen and useable throw to 75ft. Cost me maybe $24 I think. Regardless, I always ride with an XM-L 3-mode torch on the bars to back-up my bar lamp and yes I always carry spare torch batteries if I'm on a ride lasting more than 2 hours. You NEVER EVER want to be back in woods and suddenly find out you have no lights with the sun going down. Been there, done that. Once was all I needed to teach me that lesson.

  79. #79
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    I did point out that all of these were my fault, and spare AAs would not have helped when the battery carrier was broken. That's probably the only poor quality thing about AA Dinotte lights.

    Tim

  80. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wombat View Post
    I did point out that all of these were my fault, and spare AAs would not have helped when the battery carrier was broken. That's probably the only poor quality thing about AA Dinotte lights.

    Tim
    I understand. I have a couple Dinotte 200L AA lamps. Not sure how you broke the carrier as the plastic is pretty tough. I don't use mine anymore but if I did I would have to get rid of the stupid nine volt type battery connectors. Those used to give me fits. An easy fix actually. Just solder some better connectors to the carrier terminals and to the lamp.

    The spare batteries I was referring to was for the P-7 torch. For that a back-up 18650 cell is a must.

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wombat View Post
    I did point out that all of these were my fault, and spare AAs would not have helped when the battery carrier was broken. That's probably the only poor quality thing about AA Dinotte lights.

    Tim
    oh, i understand the carrier was broken, i was talking about in general carrying spare batteries for a light that uses them is a good idea. dont break the battery holder, and spares can come in handy.
    Juice

  82. #82
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    I was hoping this lamp would problem free a little longer but since my original review I've run into some issues.

    I switched on the light during a night ride and it ran for about a minute then it shut off. It seems like the battery just ran out of juice.
    I plugged it into the charger and the LED indicator light was out. So I left it over night but it didn't charge the battery. I put a meter on it and the charger has died.

    I've order a replacement charger.
    This time I'm trying out a 8.4v 1.5A AC/DC charger for a Sony Camera.
    I'll update this thread as soon as I get recieve the charger and test the battery.
    Last edited by spartacus001; 05-25-2012 at 11:47 AM.

  83. #83
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    I recieved a Sony laptop charger @ 8.4V 1.5A. Pretty close to the specs. of the original charger. I spliced the jack from the broken adapter, soldered and heat shrunk the splice.
    Put the battery in a metal tray and plugged in the charger. I monitored the temperature the entire time. The adapter was slightly warm and the batteries showed no signs of heat. After 5hrs it was done. The adapter was cold.
    Plugged in the light. Bingo! Back to night riding.



    The old adapter just died. Other then no LED there was no other warning. No burning smell, no excessive heat. Probably a bad transformer or capacitor.
    Last edited by spartacus001; 06-16-2012 at 01:00 PM.

  84. #84
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    Cree XML T6 is 1000 lumens , can you let us know you make the T6 to be bicyle light, it iwll be 1800 lumens?? you are gold so you can add the 800 lumens more for it ??

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wombat View Post
    I've had three lights "not work" for me on a commute home (on fire trails through pitch black bush). The first was my Dinotte that ran on AAs. I dropped the battery holder while getting it ready for the ride and it would no longer hold the batteries. So I then wrapped my P7 torch around the handlebars and started riding only for its battery to run flat about 1/2 way through the ride in the darkest section. I then wrapped my Princeton Tec Apex headlamp around my helment and set off.

    This was the first time I used the Apex on the bike and I thought I I'd badly overestimated how bright it was as it was very difficult to see much beyond the front wheel. It was only when I got home that I realised I was running it on it's lowest setting.

    All of these were of course my fault, and I guess it shows I really need at least 4 lights for a night ride.

    Tim
    I think you can chocie a goog qualtity light will be ok

  86. #86
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    I almost considered this light... but I didn't like the idea of having too much wires going around the bike.

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    I think you can choice some bicycle light have the Velcro on the wire, it will tie the wires on the bicycle

  88. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alwin.Wu View Post
    I think you can choice some bicycle light have the Velcro on the wire, it will tie the wires on the bicycle
    Yeah... but the wires are still there.

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    Quote Originally Posted by littlebadboy View Post
    Yeah... but the wires are still there.
    I see what you are need now , a bicycle light more like flashlight, battery is in the body of light, this type bicycle light have no wires, Fluxient T6 mini is suit for you, I think ebuy have it.

  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by littlebadboy View Post
    Yeah... but the wires are still there.
    but always the flashlight sytle bicycle light bright is not very good, it only have one battery in it , so will lower the output to save power.

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    Wide angle lens Cree XML T6

    Hi I bought one of these CREE XML T6 LED 1800LM a month ago and absolutely love. I use it for both bike and running and have nothing but good to say about it.

    However i keep reading that you can get a wide angle lens for them and i am obviously missing something as i cannot find them on ebay. can someone please point me in the right direction?

    I am not in the USA

    Thnx

  92. #92
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    That also bothered me....


    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    The only thing that bothered me was the 1800 lumen claim by the vendor. Sorry but you won't get even half that. Maybe 700 to 800 if you're lucky. I'm glad to see the Action wide lens working so well. One light with wide lens on the bars, one spot on the helmet and you're ready for action.
    ..........

  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by tallsmurf View Post
    Hi I bought one of these CREE XML T6 LED 1800LM a month ago and absolutely love. I use it for both bike and running and have nothing but good to say about it.

    However i keep reading that you can get a wide angle lens for them and i am obviously missing something as i cannot find them on ebay. can someone please point me in the right direction?

    I am not in the USA

    Thnx
    They are available here. WIDE ANGLE LENS
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
    www.action-led-lights.com

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    Thanks Jim

    Many Thanks Jim

  95. #95
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    It was either a Magicshine or Gloworm but I went with this cheaper option. It cost me at an auction of $34 it was soo cheap then its a matter of waiting from Asia shipping which took about 2.5 weeks. Before this I had those HID & ay-up LED which cost me about $300-400 and this copied magicshine light is bright enough and value for money. I just ordered another light for the helmet too. I took that risk and so far soo good for 2 x 1800 cree LED at $70.....bargain!

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    I run the light static on the tile floor and was on for 3.5hrs but I had to turn it off as I had to go to bed, next time will do an all out test. The battery took 4hrs to charge from 3.5hrs of use. This light went well and better than I expected, really surprised, wow.

    anyway I'm that excited I'm buying 2 more for my commute bike (front & rear) and use y cable with single battery and use the other battery as spare For the rear light I will have to find a red lense

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    Hey guys here something that is very similar with a lower price $43.30 and free shipping.

  98. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by pucked up View Post
    Hey guys here something that is very similar with a lower price $43.30 and free shipping.
    I like the beam pattern shot with the big dark artifact in it.
    If you want to try and fix that you might try a Magicshine orange peel reflector available here and/or a wide angle lens
    Also be aware that the power connector on most of these is not the same as a MS.

    Be for-warned, I have a wholesale customer who uses lights for an off the bike purpose and thought he would save some money and bought 100 of these. Within 6 months over half of his batteries had died and he was SOL.
    What's the longest anyone has had one of these in use and how are they doing?
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
    www.action-led-lights.com

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    I bought a $43 close last September and it's still going good. Almost full run time, etc but I'm sure when it gets cold the battery will run far less.

    However, I say this knowing my group has 6 MS's and a couple of clones. Most have either had bad batteries after 6-12 months or defective heads, several and splitting cables at the connectors.

    We all have at least 1 good light set of a quality brand. Mine are Dinotte.

    They are cheap and if you figure a year and are happy w/ that, then go for it but never ride w/ just one of those lights by yourself.

    By the way, my Dinotte XML-3 dual kicks butt. Use these on the bars as the beam is wide. Use the clone on the helmet as the beam is very narrow but that's ok w/ me on the helmet.

    I'd buy another for sure b/c they are so affordable but would never go out w/o the Dinotte's.

  100. #100
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    spartacus001,
    Hi.
    I would like to buy the same flashlight, but capacity of battery is not so high for me.
    In my country that batteries are expensive and hard to purchase.
    How do you think, is this available to change the original power source?
    I can not find the same voltage batteries.

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