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  1. #301
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    Hah! I knew all of those collectible popcorn tins would come in handy some day.
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  2. #302
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    first trail ride using the light and motion stella 300 on the bar and the xml t6 on my head. great day in the sun-stained morning, that thing is BRIGHT. the high beam of the cree dwarfs that of the L&M, although i feel that the L&M's beam is obviously of higher quality. however, riding with that much light on my head will take some getting used to. here's some shots of the beam in san francisco's golden gate park.

    now hopefully my battery pack won't explode. i'm charging it in a cake pan as i type...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Review of Ebay: 1800 Lumen CREE XML T6 LED Bicycle HeadLight Lamp-dscn1739.jpg  

    Review of Ebay: 1800 Lumen CREE XML T6 LED Bicycle HeadLight Lamp-dscn1736.jpg  


  3. #303
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    anyone having battery issues with this light? It seems like no matter what setting i use it never lasts more than an hour. when the light has shut off the battery volts are still above 7 vdc. also if the battery pack is plugged in for even a second it will work again with the light. any thoughts

  4. #304
    the half breed devil
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    read the thread above about exploding battery packs. it seems as if the quality of the batteries varies somewhat, since they're factory seconds.

    i've used mine twice with no issues. crossing my fingers, but we get what we pay for...

  5. #305
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    Yikes so I guess I got off easy with one that just doesn't work well. Looks like I'll have to find a new one or dust off the old R/C days skills of soldering packs.

  6. #306
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    The "quality" of the lighthead/LED must vary as well, my replacement lighthead only lasts 30-40 minutes with the same battery, the lighthead that died lasted an hour(at least) on the one ride I completed before it croaked....

    Quote Originally Posted by patski View Post
    Yay, my replacement light from lifebike2011 arrived yesterday, exactly 3mos from the date I mailed it to them....

  7. #307
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    i think 1800lumens is a bit too much

  8. #308
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    God I love these threads.

    Forget THIS light, it's last week's news, now ebay has 2000 lumen XM-L ButtShine StuporFire Bike Light for just $22 shipped! Buy 2 or 3, you will surely need them because all the parts from the first one will be so lonely sitting in that drawer when it breaks in six weeks.
    Meanwhile remember you started commuting to work to make a difference to the planet and save money on gas. You reduced YOUR carbon footprint but some China factories making everything from solar panels to lights like these spews a GG that's 17,000x more damaging than carbon dioxide and lasts 800 years.
    Okay we've got gee whiz hi tech lighting and 1.3 billion people do have to eat too... but gimme 1970's Schwinn Lemon Peeler with a 2D cell headlight with acid that leaked out of its Ray-O-Vacs because that's all we had, didn't know any better so who needed more?
    Why are people lining up to pay $50 knowing these are virtually throwaways?

    I dunno, I'm no better, that parts drawer in MY toolbox contains two of Elektrolumens Wayne's "little friends", a 320l and a 550l version, each lasting a year of constant fiddling before being beyond saving. $140 each. Several DX multi-cree abominations in the boneyard.

    2 circa 2006 Dinotte 140l? Permanently clamped on my Klein Quantum Race Roadie with new aluminum front bezels to replace the broken plastic ones, probably still going in year 2030. If I could just figure a way to DD a P7 or XML in each.....
    All bikes weigh 50 lbs. a 50lb. bike doesn't need a lock. a 40lb bike needs a 10lb. lock. a 30 lb. bike needs a 20lb. lock.

  9. #309
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    tagged for future ref
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  10. #310
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    We the people ...

    Quote Originally Posted by patski View Post
    Yay, my replacement light from lifebike2011 arrived yesterday, exactly 3mos from the date I mailed it to them....

    I ordered a slightly different one (red bezel) from the same seller. It took quite a while for it to arrive, but the quality is outstanding for the price. It has a half orange-peel reflector giving it a nice mix of spot and flood.

    Hopefully it won't explode the next time I charge it ;}

  11. #311
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    I'm looking at making a replacement mount for this style light body. If i get enough intrest, i can make a few and sell them here cheap. Let me know if you guys are interested.

  12. #312
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    So are there no good battery options for these lights? The light is bright as hell.. I'm concerned about the battery pack like everyone else here...

  13. #313
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    Yes there are some Xeccon and Magicshine packs,if you do not want to make your own 18650 cells or Lipo RC batteries :-)

  14. #314
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    Review of Ebay: 1800 Lumen CREE XML T6 LED Bicycle HeadLight Lamp

    Quote Originally Posted by Desertride View Post
    I ordered a slightly different one (red bezel) from the same seller. It took quite a while for it to arrive, but the quality is outstanding for the price. It has a half orange-peel reflector giving it a nice mix of spot and flood.

    Hopefully it won't explode the next time I charge it ;}
    I'm curious to know how's that half OP reflector. Could you please take a picture of it? I don't remind ever seeing a reflector like that...

    Cheers and hope you enjoy your new light!

  15. #315
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    I ordered the one from Amazon and received it in 3 days. First ride last night after a 2 hour charge(didn't have time for more of a charge).

    The thing is bright and worked fine. I would probably like a more narrow throw but for the price, it seems difficult to beat.

    The battery issues I have read about makes me nervous. I will likely change over to an AT once this thing dies for peace of mind.

  16. #316
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bailey44 View Post
    I ordered the one from Amazon and received it in 3 days. First ride last night after a 2 hour charge(didn't have time for more of a charge).

    The thing is bright and worked fine. I would probably like a more narrow throw but for the price, it seems difficult to beat.

    The battery issues I have read about makes me nervous. I will likely change over to an AT once this thing dies for peace of mind.
    I wouldn't get to scared about them.
    There's thousands of them out there.....
    You have a Li ion battery in your phone, electric toothbrush,razor....the list goes on.

  17. #317
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    What is the connector type for this light and battery? Is there a standard ? How do I know the battery made for another manufactuer's light like MagicShine or Gemini will work with this Ebay nameless light?

    Same question goes for dynamo hubs.. what are the attributes used to determine whether these cheap ebay lights can work with a certain dynamo?

    My charger makes an audible buzz when plugged into the wall outlet.. that doesn't bode well for me...

  18. #318
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    Quote Originally Posted by boogman View Post
    What is the connector type for this light and battery? Is there a standard ? How do I know the battery made for another manufactuer's light like MagicShine or Gemini will work with this Ebay nameless light?
    You don't. That's part of the cheap Chinese light experience.

    If you're handy with a soldering iron you can put a new connector on if the current one doesn't work, but that's about it. Most of them do work fine from what I hear, but there are no guarantees.
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  19. #319
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    I wouldn't get to scared about them.
    There's thousands of them out there.....
    You have a Li ion battery in your phone, electric toothbrush,razor....the list goes on.
    You are right...I was over thinking it. I now charge it in my neighbor's kitchen each time.

  20. #320
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    i've been using mine for 1-1/2 to two hour rides once or twice a week now since i received it.

    so far so good.

  21. #321
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    Quote Originally Posted by boogman View Post
    What is the connector type for this light and battery? Is there a standard ?
    There is no jack standards with these lights. Some are larger and some are smaller.

    My connector is 2.5mm (inline power jack).
    If you are looking for your size then bring your light into your local electronics hobby store and try them out.

    As a precaution I always charge my 18650 in a LiPo bag.

    Review of Ebay: 1800 Lumen CREE XML T6 LED Bicycle HeadLight Lamp-img_3427_zps00fbe05e.jpg

  22. #322
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    I think I might have gotten a good batch. Just turned red after 3:45 hours in full blast. It came with what I assume is a full charge from the seller, gonna give it my first charge now.


    Here is the link: Amazon.com: CREE XML XM-L T6 LED Bike Bicycle Light HeadLight HeadLamp 1200LM Gold: Sports & Outdoors

  23. #323
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    Quote Originally Posted by scroll24_7 View Post
    I think I might have gotten a good batch. Just turned red after 3:45 hours in full blast. It came with what I assume is a full charge from the seller, gonna give it my first charge now.


    Here is the link: Amazon.com: CREE XML XM-L T6 LED Bike Bicycle Light HeadLight HeadLamp 1200LM Gold: Sports & Outdoors
    Which seller did you buy from? I see four listed. At $26 it might be worth the investment just for a spare lighthead.

    How is the strobe mode activated. Do you have to press the button for a few seconds (so it's hidden), or is it part of the regular mode rotation.

  24. #324
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    Quote Originally Posted by varider View Post
    Which seller did you buy from? I see four listed. At $26 it might be worth the investment just for a spare lighthead.

    How is the strobe mode activated. Do you have to press the button for a few seconds (so it's hidden), or is it part of the regular mode rotation.

    Got that same gold one from TOMTOP. Yes, the flashing mode is "hidden". Gotta press it for a couple of second. Used the light for a short ride tonight and the flashing mode is BRIGHT. Was lighting up all the street and the reflective signs where going crazy. People were definitively aware that I was around.

    Lets see how it holds up.

  25. #325
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    Thanks. That's great news about the flash mode being hidden.

    The first thing to go might the battery. If it fails in a few months, just get one from action led. They come with a 6 month warranty.

  26. #326
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    Review of Ebay: 1800 Lumen CREE XML T6 LED Bicycle HeadLight Lamp

    Just got my second light, and I believe it might be defective. As soon as I put batteries in the light turned on, and won't turn off. I've tried to hold the button with no success.

    I'm currently trying to drain the batteries and recharge, any other ideas

  27. #327
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    Junk driver circuit board. Return it if possible. If not, the driver can be repaired or replaced if you have some electronic knowledge.

  28. #328
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    Review of Ebay: 1800 Lumen CREE XML T6 LED Bicycle HeadLight Lamp

    I took an electronics class back in high school but doubt that will cut it, eBay seller is going to send another light

    Thanks for the help

  29. #329
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    Hey... so I have an 808 ebay clone with a smooth reflector, and wants to alter the throw to be wider. May I know exactly what is the output difference between the 2:

    Action-LED-Lights ? Wide Angle Lens

    Action-LED-Lights ? MJ-808/808E/808U/Titan Replacement Reflector

    And for which ever product, just to confirm - it's a direct swap right? Thanks.
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  30. #330
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    Quote Originally Posted by axl886 View Post
    Hey... so I have an 808 ebay clone with a smooth reflector, and wants to alter the throw to be wider. May I know exactly what is the output difference between the 2:

    Action-LED-Lights ? Wide Angle Lens

    Action-LED-Lights ? MJ-808/808E/808U/Titan Replacement Reflector

    And for which ever product, just to confirm - it's a direct swap right? Thanks.
    i have 2 808 ebay clones. the first one i bought i also ordered the orange peel reflector, and the wide angle lens. when i got the light it was a pretty tight spot that wasnt really all that useable. with just the wide angle lens it created a beam that looked like a hot dog across the trail.
    i installed the orange peel reflector and it was a world of difference in useable light. although it did take a bit of modification to fit properly. for the first light i had to grind off the lip with a pedestal belt sander so that it sit far enough in the housing to not create any dead spots. not a big deal, took me about 10 minutes.
    on this same light i also used the wide angle lens. which is awesome as a bar light.
    the wide angle lens is a little bit thinner than the stock glass so you may need an o-ring to keep things tight and in position. for my helmet light i have the orange peel reflector with the clear lens that works for throw down the trail.

    the reflector and lens are cheap enough, order both and see what you like, just pay attention to the light pattern when fitting the reflector.
    Juice

  31. #331
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    Der Juicen: thanks a lot for your reply. Guess I'll just get both parts anyways! Since shipping costs is already incurred.
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  32. #332
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    Does anybody know if this light or this light are legit? Seems too good to be true but comes with everything. A bit worried about the battery pack safety and handlebar mount though.

  33. #333
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    Quote Originally Posted by icequbed View Post
    Does anybody know if this light or this light are legit? Seems too good to be true but comes with everything. A bit worried about the battery pack safety and handlebar mount though.
    those lights are what this entire thread is about.

  34. #334
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    Yeah, I'm just a bit worried as the OP mentioned that he bought his for ~£40 - the one I linked is less than half the price!

  35. #335
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    DX site seems to have more trust than ebay sellers.

    Quote Originally Posted by icequbed View Post
    Yeah, I'm just a bit worried as the OP mentioned that he bought his for ~£40 - the one I linked is less than half the price!

  36. #336
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    Ok so I got the following 2 parts... My normal 1 LED light fits them just fine but the bezel of my 3 LED seems to be affixed solidly to the body?

    Review of Ebay: 1800 Lumen CREE XML T6 LED Bicycle HeadLight Lamp-pfkoxvecyzx9ojp-yvezcwnkoqvgb0ze6ibixyahc4q.jpeg
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  37. #337
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    Quote Originally Posted by icequbed View Post
    Yeah, I'm just a bit worried as the OP mentioned that he bought his for ~£40 - the one I linked is less than half the price!
    The OP also bought one a year and a half ago. They've come down in price a lot since then.
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  38. #338
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    Does anyone know if the magicshine batteries or the ones from action led will work on the generic cree lights. They look exactly alike but has anyone tried it? Has anyone tried using plastidip on the generic batteries to help weatherproof it?

  39. #339
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    Quote Originally Posted by axl886 View Post
    My normal 1 LED light fits them just fine but the bezel of my 3 LED seems to be affixed solidly to the body?
    HELP HELP...

    Ok, try as I might to rotate with a piece of rough cloth, I just can't unscrew the 3LED bezel to affix the new lenses.

    To clarify, is the interface at the silver bezel itself (1)... or is it lower, on the plastic body (2)? Has anyone succeeded before... any tips please? TIA.

    Review of Ebay: 1800 Lumen CREE XML T6 LED Bicycle HeadLight Lamp-2013-08-13-21.10.17a.jpg
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  40. #340
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    I managed to do it! Interface is at (1). Switched it on facing down for 10 min, then tried many times to forcefully unscrew the bezel, using what available little traction there is on the thin bezel.



    Do note that the Action wide angle lenses is a tad bigger than the 3 LED stock lenses' size, so I had to file it down 2mm in diameter all-round to fit.
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  41. #341
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    Quote Originally Posted by axl886 View Post

    Do note that the Action wide angle lenses is a tad bigger than the 3 LED stock lenses' size, so I had to file it down 2mm in diameter all-round to fit.
    How did the beam pattern turn out for you. I don't know of anyone using this lens on a 3 beam light.
    Jim Harger
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  42. #342
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    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    How did the beam pattern turn out for you. I don't know of anyone using this lens on a 3 beam light.
    Hey Jim! It works beautifully, very similar to the beam pattern pic on your website.
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  43. #343
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    Hi All,

    I have looked through this thread with interest as I am putting together a light set for night trail riding.
    The information about OP reflectors and wide angle lenses has been extremely helpful, thanks.

    I was wondering if anyone has used these lights

    Cree XM L XML T6 LED 1800 LM Bicycle Bike Head Light Headlamp Rechargeable Head | eBay

    These only run on 3.7V not the 8.4V most of you have been working with. So the batteries in this pack are wired in parallel not series, I would have thought this is a good thing to run the batteries in this way?
    Could I get longer run times out of this system over an 8.4V system?

    Sorry if they are silly questions

  44. #344
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    Quote Originally Posted by SA Freak View Post
    These only run on 3.7V not the 8.4V most of you have been working with. So the batteries in this pack are wired in parallel not series, I would have thought this is a good thing to run the batteries in this way?
    Could I get longer run times out of this system over an 8.4V system?

    Sorry if they are silly questions
    If this light is using 3.7V battery setup then there is something screwy in the description. They state the driver is a boost circuit. That doesn't work with a single XML and 3.7V. The Vf of the XML is ~3.2V. Since that is less than the battery voltage you need to drop voltage not boost it. My bet is that the driver is actually a simple linear regulator that uses PWM for the low ouput mode and strobe. You might actually get less runtime with this light because linear regulators burn the excess voltage as heat. Additionally, low voltage means higher current through the cable and connectors. You lose a bit of energy there (though a very small amount at these power levels). I did not see a drive current in the spec so there is no way to estimate about what real light output may be. It will not be even half of the 1800 in the ad.

  45. #345
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    So my very simple logic of adding additional batteries in series increases the voltage but adding batteries in parallel leaves the voltage the same but increases the mAh available may not be so good.

    I was hoping that by making my own battery pack consisting of 4 X 3.7v 5300mAh batteries I could get insanely long run times. Would that work of have I got it all wrong???

  46. #346
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    Where are you seeing that it runs on 3.7 volts? It appears to be using the same battery as every other one of these. Also, I don't see any way that you would wire up a 4x18650 pack to get 3.7 volts out of it - 8.4 / 4 is 2.1, which doesn't add up to 3.7 no matter how you arrange the individual cells.

    Adding batteries in parallel is a way to extend your runtime (I did it with deep cycle batteries on my camper), but I don't think what you're planning will work.
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  47. #347
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    So my very simple logic of adding additional batteries in series increases the voltage but adding batteries in parallel leaves the voltage the same but increases the mAh available may not be so good.

    I was hoping that by making my own battery pack consisting of 4 X 3.7v 5300mAh batteries I could get insanely long run times. Would that work of have I got it all wrong???


    Your understanding of battery configurations is correct. Series adds voltage, parallel adds current. The watt hour capacity stays the same with either configuration.

    Larger battery capacity will always give longer runtime on the light. The electronics inside the light that regulates the current flow to the LED can be of many different designs, each with their own characteristics. Efficiency is one of those. A switching style regulator can be more efficient than a linear style in battery powered bike light applications.
    Last edited by Vancbiker; 09-20-2013 at 07:22 AM. Reason: added quote

  48. #348
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    Quote Originally Posted by nemebean View Post
    Also, I don't see any way that you would wire up a 4x18650 pack to get 3.7 volts out of it - 8.4 / 4 is 2.1, which doesn't add up to 3.7 no matter how you arrange the individual cells.

    Adding batteries in parallel is a way to extend your runtime (I did it with deep cycle batteries on my camper), but I don't think what you're planning will work.
    Li-Ion batteries are nominal 3.7V. Fresh off the charger they will be 4.2 but drop pretty quickly to the 3.7 range and then drop slowly to the 3.2 range then decline quickly after that. The light builders know that buyers look for bigger is better so they state maximum (or beyond) values in all their specs to lure in unknowing buyers. So it gets printed that the battery is 8.4V.

    Four cells in 2S2P configuration is nominal 7.4V and a max of 8.4V.

  49. #349
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    Ah, should have known that the voltage numbers would be inflated. Every other spec on these lights is. :-)
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    All I really know about electricity is that it bites but I suffer from a lifelong affliction of tinkering and a level of curiosity that does me more harm than good.

    I bought one of these as an impulse buy a while ago so Ihave one to play with. I bought it based on the mounting system alone, I havetried the rubber band thingies and always end up with the light doing a 180 onthe bars and shining straight into my face after a rocky section or drop off.

    My understanding of the circuitry in the light is zero, but I do know that it is a 3.7V system and it is wired in Parallel.

    I hope the following information is useful to those in the know

    I have stripped down the battery hoping to get more information on the actual cells and to my surprise it is only a 3 cell pack! (false advertising much?) No matter to me as I was always going to try to builda bigger pack anyway, but still not nice.




    After charging the pack, it came up to 4.27V

    And remeasuring the pack after running the light till the safety cut out kicked in I got 2.72V



    Run times are:

    1 hour 36 minutes on the high setting
    5 hours, 37 minutes on the low setting.
    (this data may help someone smarter than me figure outwhatís actually on the circuit board)


    I was hoping that if I built a 4 cell battery pack using something like these

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/350855679747?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

    I would have a 3.7V pack with 21,200 mAh????? (if you can believe the batters clamed output)
    Would this give me crazy long run times running one light or just really good run times using 2 lights? Would that work?

  51. #351
    Kir
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    Welcome to the wonderful world of chinese batteries

    If I was you I would make a paypal dispute about that battery and force seller to make a partial refund.
    You battery is made from 1000-1500mAh cells. These ebay cells are not better, expect the same horrible capacity. If you want real high-capacity 18650 cells - buy brand-name ones (Samsung, LG, Sanyo, Panasonic). 2600mAh cells will give you 10400mAh battery and about 4-5 hours runtime on high mode.
    Also think about how you'll build battery pack from them. Soldering li-ion batteries is not recommended so you should buy batteries with attached tabs for soldering or use holders.

    And you should really replace that charger, 4.27v is way too high. Recommended cutoff voltage for most 18650 cells is 4.20v.

  52. #352
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    New type of chinese battery - guess how much capacity seller claims for that "dummy" cell/tube ?

    Quote Originally Posted by SA Freak View Post

  53. #353
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    lol. That looks like a 6600 mah battery to me! Which light did that come with, I want to make sure never to order from him?

  54. #354
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    Hi guys,

    I'm thinking about ordering the same light as the Op, and adding a wider lens from Action Lights. This is the eBay seller I'm planning to buy it from, what do you guys think?

    Does anyone have pics of this light mounted on a MTB? My frame has no H20 Bosses.

    Thanks guys!

  55. #355
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    BobaX: Shouldn't be a problem at all, fixing the wider lenses.
    2012 Giant Trance X1 (gone)
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  56. #356
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    Quote Originally Posted by axl886 View Post
    BobaX: Shouldn't be a problem at all, fixing the wider lenses.
    My only gripe is the quality of the battery and especially the "dummy" battery from the previous page (false advertisement)?!

    From what I recall in this thread, the cheapo battery that comes with the light lasted for a year for the op, correct? For $20 for a year's use, I think it's worth it.

  57. #357
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    Hello, new member has light that does not work after 2 rides. Need help .r

    I am a new member that has a
    light that does not work after 2 rides. Need help .r

    Quote Originally Posted by spartacus001 View Post
    My first light review:

    Advertised Specs:
    Emitter Type: XML T6 LED Output 1800 lumens
    Modes: High / Low / Strobe (high) with no memory
    Run Time: 180 minutes on High
    Battery pack: 1 x 8.4v Li-Ion 6400mAh Battery Pack
    Battery Charger: 115v with LED indication for Charging (Red) / Full charge (Green)
    Power Warning: Red Low Power behind tail click
    Helmet Strap: O-ring mount
    Head dimension: Light 43mm DIA
    Weight: 118g (lamp head) 200gm battery pack : Total 318gm

    My lighting needs for city commuting at night has always been adequate using a cheap handlebar mounted light. However due to a change in my route I now ride about 10km on paved trials where there is no lighting whatsoever. Ebay offered many of options ranging from cheap flashers to a high end NiteRider Pro kit. I needed robust and bright enough for commuting that wasnít going to cost me a arm and a leg. So I decided to try out one of the Chinese vendors who offered a hard-to-believe 1800 Lumen kit for under $60. I believe this light is a version of the popular Magic Shine lighting system.

    I knew that an output of 1800 Lumen was impossible with the XML T6 with the advertised setup. Still, I figured if the output was half it was still worth $60. After I ordering the light I was expecting it to take at least 4 weeks to arrive from China but I was pleasantly surprised to find it in my mailbox after 7 working days. Apparently the particular vendor operated out of Hong Kong so the shipping time was cut by 1/3rd.

    Kit Contents


    The kit came in a small box which contained the lamp, battery/charge, 2-Orings, Helmet strap/adapter, battery holder. At first sight the body was machined well with matt black anodizing. I was actually surprised with the quality of the workmanship. No burs, machine marks nor blotchy finishing. The threads were smooth and fitting was tight. The Aluminium reflector had a smooth finish instead of the Orange peel texture that was pictured in the ad. The LED was mounted on the board with a large heat-sink which threaded into the body. There was plenty of room in the housing for heat dissipation. The crowned Bezel has 6-points with a nice satin brushed finish. Under the glass lens there is a GITD (Glow in the Dark) silicon O-ring and silicon rubber tail cap. The tailcap switch is a reverse clicky with a LED battery indicator behind it.




    There were no markings on the board that indicated that the emmitter was actually the newest T6 but based on the pattern of the emitter (7-bar grid pattern) and the production date of 20110901 I'm pretty certain it's a XML. I was happy to see a nice blob of thermal paste for heat transfer. On the board all the the solder joints were clean.


    The battery pack appears to be 4 x18650 linked in series and bundled in heat shrink. It's hard to tell if these are protected cells and I didn't want to take off the heat shrink. The cable and connectors pushed together snugly but they lack weather sealed caps which would have been nice. When I plugged in the light I was surprised to find the the batteries already charged. I put it on a volt meter and it measured 7.9V on the 3rd charge. Not the advertised 8.4V. Maybe it needs a break in time

    ** Update **
    Burn Time
    On the 4th full charge the battery reached 8.27V in just over 6hrs. The charger was warm but the battery remained cool the entire time.

    High: 185 mins.
    A full 3+ hours exceeded my expectations. But the lamp got hot after running for 10mins. It was hot enough that I couldn't hold on to it for more then 30seconds. The battery was at normal indoor temperature (22 degrees). I ended up placing the lamp head in between an aluminium sliding door frame to help dissipate the heat.
    The backlit switch remained green the entire time with no low battery warning light.
    ** There definitely is a Red Led but I must have missed it in the final 5 mins juice.

    Low: testing in progress
    Strobe: in progress

    Beam Shots
    The beam was very bright but I donít have a light meter to measure it. The beam is very bright with a hot center with wide spillage. There are some small artifacts in the spot but not very noticable. It has excellent throw qualities but this is not ideal for a bike light. Comparing the beam side-by-side with my EagleTac P20A2 (which pumps out about 220Lm) this light seemed at least twice as bright.

    LEFT: Comparion to an EagleTac P20A2 with Sanyo Eneloops AAs. Spot lens on High.

    Wide Angle Lens
    Definitely a wider flood pattern is need for commuting. I decided to replace the stock lens with an aftermarket wide angle lens from Ebay. The Action Light lens was shipped out very quickly. Thanks Jim. It converted the 10 degree spot beam to a 10 degree high by 30 degree wide flood light. The beam pattern is rectangular in shape.



    Light comparions: Wall light is a CFL 40W Equivalent. The Garage light is a CFL 100 W Equivalent Compared to car headlights it is easily on par with BMW or Lexus HIDs
    I like the volume of light but would have much prefered a warmer light. I find the warmer temperatures giving an more accurate depth perception i.e. better CRI (Color rendering index)

    This might be a DIY project for later (if I find the time to learn how to replace it with a Warmer T5 Emitter).


    You can see the difference between the standard and wide angle pattern.
    Road beam Pattern on High: Spot vs Wide angle


    Trail beam Pattern on High: Spot vs Wide angle

    Mount
    I didnít even bother with the standard mount. A single O-ring didnít seem like very secure system and it doesnít lend itself for quick mounting and removal. So I discarded the mount and replaced it with one from my old Cateye H-24. An spacer plate was needed so I fabricated one from a piece of plexiglass. I drilled two holes for screws and made a channel for the wire. Then I modified the body by drilling/tapping 2 holes 8-32 to which the spacer is bolted on to. I add clear silicone to all holes and gaps to ensure good water resistance.



    Conclusion

    Good: Overall Iím happy with the light. The construction is solid with more then enough output for city communting needs. It reached a full burn time of 3hrs on High. The design and construction is simple which is attractive to tinkerers who plan to modify the light. An excellent value light.

    Bad: The spot light isn't ideal for a bike light so I'd recommend a wide angle lens especially for off trail. It is falsely advertised as 1800 Lm. At best it's probably in the range of 450-550 Lm. The low battery warning is hardly a warning. The red warning goes on for maybe 5 mins and then the light dies. The O-ring friction mount seemed like an after thought. It definitely needs a better mounting system. There was no low battery warning indicator. The battery pouch is adequate but the strap is too long. It could use a second strap so to give a little more support. The option of a warmer T5 would make it almost perfect.

    Time will tell how many cycles the batter pack will last. When it dies I plan to build my own pack.

    At the time of this review the Ebay seller had 12614 feedback and 99.6% +ve
    Iíll update this thread with the Low burn time after I log more hours.
    Enjoy

  58. #358
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    Quote Originally Posted by rfoster View Post
    I am a new member that has a
    light that does not work after 2 rides. Need help .r
    The cheapo lights are typically assembled very poorly. Assuming your battery is charged, plugged correctly. etc. and the light does not work, you might be able to repair it. Do you have any electronic/electrical knowledge, a voltmeter, and a soldering iron?

  59. #359
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    Electrical knowledge is indeed required to play with these lights. Perhaps battery, cold soldered join, whatever fried inside the light. There are lot of things that can go wrong there.

  60. #360
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    Just got one of these yesterday: Amazon.com: 4 Mode 1200 Lumen CREE XML T6 Bulb LED Bicycle bike HeadLight Lamp Flashlight Light Headlamp: Sports & Outdoors with amazon prime so I can get a quick refund and return label.
    Read this whole thread and didn't find anyone with exactly my issue.
    -out of the box, worked beautifully for a half hour or so as I played around with it
    -put it on charger (didn't run it all the way down), red light for ~1.5hrs then green light on charger appeared so I took it off
    -now when I plug the batt into the light unit the LED is just barely lit and on the on/off button it kind of looks like both a green and red light are lit (probably red, just in the green rubber button)
    -try charging again and the charger shows red for only a minute or two before turning green and, presumably, no longer charging.
    The light unit itself is very impressive, so if these symptoms aren't pointing towards a burnt out LED or something I may just order a proper charger from Action LED. Any ideas on a quick fix or what to test for before I do that? Thanks.

  61. #361
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    I think the charger is not the problem - it is cheap, but rarely dies. I would check the battery or the unit. Or if you don't like to do that return it back.

  62. #362
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    Quote Originally Posted by Der Juicen View Post
    does anybody have a link to new drivers and cree xml u2 parts that would fit right into these housings?
    Did anyone come back with answer to this?

  63. #363
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    Quote Originally Posted by plugp7 View Post
    Did anyone come back with answer to this?
    There's one easy solution.
    Right HERE
    You get everything you need including a good driver, a good BAK battery, a good charger, good wires/plugs, an orange peal reflector with tempered glass lens, and a 1 year guaranty on all of it.
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
    www.action-led-lights.com

  64. #364
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    We the people ...

    As the OP I can't believe this thread is going so strong after 2 years.

    It can be a number of things causing your problem.
    i.e. substandard Batteries, Charger, Protection Circuit Board, Wiring, driver etc.

    Check the charger first, it could have gone bad. Mine failed for no apparent reason after about a dozen uses. Put a volt meter on the jack and measure the output Voltage and Current. Output should be 8.4V at 1.5A

    I also and serviced a friend's light charger that failed too. The Green LED was still on but the charger no longer putting out enough voltage.

    I carefully took the shrink wrap off I noticed that the +ve and -ve
    terminals had too much bare wire exposed. Over time, the bare wires had twist over each causing a short--which presumably shorted out the charger when it was plugged in.

    I trimmed down the wires and re-soldered the leads to the PCB Ensuring that no copper was exposed so that even if it twist again there would not be bare wires contacting each other.
    I also wrapped the black wire around to the OTHER side of the battery and heat shrunk it in place to prevent twisting.

    Fixed Battery
    Review of Ebay: 1800 Lumen CREE XML T6 LED Bicycle HeadLight Lamp-photo-1.jpg

    Review of Ebay: 1800 Lumen CREE XML T6 LED Bicycle HeadLight Lamp-photo-2.jpg

    Cable Wrapped around to the other side
    Name:  photo.jpg
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    Quote Originally Posted by plugp7 View Post
    Did anyone come back with answer to this?
    Last edited by spartacus001; 10-17-2013 at 08:08 AM.

  65. #365
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    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    There's one easy solution.
    Right HERE
    You get everything you need including a good driver, a good BAK battery, a good charger, good wires/plugs, an orange peal reflector with tempered glass lens, and a 1 year guaranty on all of it.
    Thanks for that but I understood this was "Lights DIY Forums"?
    I'm more than happy with my cheap Chinese knock offs after 2 winters (with Majicshine wide angle lens cover). Would like to bin the stupid strobe though. Anyone got a fix?

  66. #366
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    Quote Originally Posted by plugp7 View Post
    Thanks for that but I understood this was "Lights DIY Forums"?
    Yea sorry, just could resist. I built my first couple of LED bike lights and love the challenge of such. But at some point I decided it just wasn't worth the hours to save $30-$40. --- And look were it led.
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
    www.action-led-lights.com

  67. #367
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    Quote Originally Posted by plugp7 View Post
    Thanks for that but I understood this was "Lights DIY Forums"?
    I'm more than happy with my cheap Chinese knock offs after 2 winters (with Majicshine wide angle lens cover). Would like to bin the stupid strobe though. Anyone got a fix?

    Actually this is the "Lights and Night Riding" forum. The DIY forum is the next one down.

  68. #368
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    Quote Originally Posted by fightnut View Post
    Actually this is the "Lights and Night Riding" forum. The DIY forum is the next one down.
    Really! Doesn't look like it but I take your point. Either way, my query still stands.

  69. #369
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    The problem is the links at the top of the page look like breadcrumbs, but aren't. They're just links to related pages.
    2011 Specialized Hard Rock Sport Disc 29
    Nukeproof Proton Pedals
    Ergon GP2 Grips
    Avid BB7 Brakes

  70. #370
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    oooops

    and.... does anyone know if this extension cable has the same fittings.

    Action-LED-Lights ? 1m Extension Cable
    Last edited by plugp7; 10-16-2013 at 11:53 AM. Reason: typo

  71. #371
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    I can tell you that the cable has 5.5mm x 2.1mm connectors.
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
    www.action-led-lights.com

  72. #372
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    Can this light be powered just by a dynamo hub? (no battery, etc...)

  73. #373
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    Does anyone else other than the op use another mount for this light? The original O ring really are subpar and I'm looking at another mount. Not really a DIYer in terms of mount-building goes though..

    Also, another issue with my light is that I've switched out the original lens for the wide angle lens. My lens was really easy to remove. All i had to do was untighten that silver metal housing or whatever. Once it's loose, I take it off and I remove the lens. I didn't have to go thru all the steps that you guys had to do thru in the first page or two of this thread.

    Maybe it's a newer version?

    Also, my light is not as clean as in the pic below. It's sort of scattered all over the place... I'll take a pic when i get home.


  74. #374
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    Spartacus, I found this PCB is quite dangerous to li-ion/pol chemistry - discharges the cells to about 2.3V (measured using hobby charger and Skyray S6).

    Bobax, I have mine (and other chinese clones) on a Cateye H24 mount - perfectly strong ;-)

  75. #375
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    Quote Originally Posted by Khrystyan27 View Post
    Can this light be powered just by a dynamo hub? (no battery, etc...)
    Answer for this question?

  76. #376
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    i think i posted images of mine rigged with my old niterider trail rat mount. i've had no problems using it with the larger of the two original o-rings. scroll back a few pages and you'll find it.

    as for getting another lens, can the person who replaced theirs re post the link to the vendor who is selling them?

    thanks!

  77. #377
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    Quote Originally Posted by Khrystyan27 View Post
    Can this light be powered just by a dynamo hub? (no battery, etc...)
    Not without some modifications. Dyno hubs output 6V AC. This light uses 7.4V DC

  78. #378
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    But chinese PCB cuts off at 2.3V/cell so I think it may work (this light and also other 2S2P should be able from 5 to 8/9V). I bought a 3V/cell cutoff PCB since I use li-pos ...
    Just add a simple AC/DC convertor, perhaps a nimh cell / capacitor ...

  79. #379
    Kir
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    No, at least not for full power. Dynamo just doesn't provide enough current for XML led.

  80. #380
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    Yeah, I know hub dynamo's output AC curent.

    I was thinking about adding a full-bridge rectifier and a 3.500uF capacitor, but somebody told me that it wouldn't work, because the light consumes far more than the dyno can output.

  81. #381
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post

    Bobax, I have mine (and other chinese clones) on a Cateye H24 mount - perfectly strong ;-)
    Is this the Cateye H24 mount?

    If it is, i can't justify the mount being more expensive than the light itself :/

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    Yes,the second one,paid about 4 euros for it on bike24 web.

  84. #384
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kir View Post
    No, at least not for full power. Dynamo just doesn't provide enough current for XML led.
    About what percent will the light run on a dynamo?

    What if I add 5x1.2V Ni-Mh accu's?

  85. #385
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    How do i go about mounting the light onto the Cateye H24 Mount? Do I remove the stock O ring mount from the light? If so, how do I remove it?

    This is the stock O ring mount on the light.
    Review of Ebay: 1800 Lumen CREE XML T6 LED Bicycle HeadLight Lamp-2013-10-28-13.27.12.jpg

    This is the Cateye H[24 Mount
    Review of Ebay: 1800 Lumen CREE XML T6 LED Bicycle HeadLight Lamp-%24-kgrhqvhjf-fji-9mvfybszdjr-vgw%7E%7E60_57.jpg

  86. #386
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    Hi BobaX, this is not the H24 mount. The right one posted here fightnut. To unscrew the chinese plastic mount you need to take off that black soft sticker sitting in the mount arc/or under the arc, it will reveal the screw - the one and only.

  87. #387
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    IF u are in the USA then Buy the H-24 Bracket and spacer directly from Cateye

    https://www.shopcateye.com/product/hl-500-black

    BUT this is NOT a simple bolt on modification.

    The H-24 bracket will NOT center properly with the existing hole.
    In addition, I didn't feel that there was enough metal on the body for a single screw.

    This is the reason why I fabricated a Custom Plastic Spacer that lies between the light and the H-24 bracket. If you look closely you can see the black 'fat' piece.
    I drilled/tapped 2 new holes in the light and secured the spacer with 2 countersunk screws. Then I screwed the H24 mount to the spacer.

  88. #388
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    Quote Originally Posted by spartacus001 View Post
    IF u are in the USA then Buy the H-24 Bracket and spacer directly from Cateye
    Quote Originally Posted by spartacus001 View Post

    https://www.shopcateye.com/product/hl-500-black

    BUT this is NOT a simple bolt on modification.

    The H-24 bracket will NOT center properly with the existing hole.
    In addition, I didn't feel that there was enough metal on the body for a single screw.

    This is the reason why I fabricated a Custom Plastic Spacer that lies between the light and the H-24 bracket. If you look closely you can see the black 'fat' piece.
    I drilled/tapped 2 new holes in the light and secured the spacer with 2 countersunk screws. Then I screwed the H24 mount to the spacer.


    Would buying the H24 bracket and its spacer solve the problem of the light not being center or do I have to custom fabricate another spacer?
    Last edited by BobaX; 10-29-2013 at 05:18 PM.

  89. #389
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    In my case it was a new hole in the light head and some cut out rubber spacer between H 24 and the head. This way even the 3 XML Skyray holds fine and has ability to bounce very slightly when riding mtb.

  90. #390
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    Marwi mounts have about 10 degrees of rotation on each side of center


    Magicshine to Marwi mount adapters

    Magic Shine to Marwi adapter

    And you will need the Marwi mount -

    LED Bike Lights 7


    ***

  91. #391
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    Got mine mounted by enlarging the original screw on the light. Loctite the screw so it doesn't come loose. Works perfectly!
    Last edited by BobaX; 11-01-2013 at 09:55 PM.

  92. #392
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    I guess I should say thank you to everyone in this thread. I was about to buy one of these lights from Amazon (Germany) since it had such great reviews on the amazon site. Right before I was about to click "buy" I says to myself, maybe you should check other reviews from those bike internets. I don't know anything about electrical work nor do I have time to tinker with it until I get fed up and bin it for something more legit. Thank you all for saving me 30 euros and who knows how much frustration. I guess I'll go stright for the magic shine or Gemeni.

  93. #393
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    I think, it's the right way to go. Good luck!

  94. #394
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    To use the Cateye H24 bracket I fabricated a custom piece of plastic allowing a channel for the wire to come through the back.

    I drilled&counter bored 2 holes in the plastic piece which screws into the lamp.
    I modified the lamp head by drilling&tapping 2 holes 8-32 to which this piece is bolted on to.
    Then I drilled & tapped a center hole to which the the "H24 Spacer" attaches.
    I Hope this helps.

    Review of Ebay: 1800 Lumen CREE XML T6 LED Bicycle HeadLight Lamp-badgers-light1.jpg

    Put Together
    Review of Ebay: 1800 Lumen CREE XML T6 LED Bicycle HeadLight Lamp-badgers-light11.jpg
    Last edited by spartacus001; 11-27-2013 at 04:06 PM.

  95. #395
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    I have similar spacer but made from rubber thick about 3-4 mm. Oh man this thread has 209.000 views!

  96. #396
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    .... Oh man this thread has 209.000 views!
    Yes.
    This was quite unexpected but since my OP 3 years ago the light is still going strong.

  97. #397
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    Quote Originally Posted by spartacus001 View Post
    Wow.
    80K+ views and counting. I'm flattered with the ongoing discussion since my original post a year ago.

    Time for an update:

    After a year of moderate use the battery capacity is only functioning at 20%.
    I always carry 3 light sources but 2 of them failed because of battery issues.
    On my commute home last night the Ebay light cut out at around 35mins (high) after an overnight charge. I had to finish the ride with only a small blinker and 10km was in pitch dark.

    The original charger died after 6 months and had to be replaced.
    So now I plan on building a custom 2S2P battery pack with a set of high quality 3100mAH 18650s

    In the end it costed me $60+ for a year of lighting. *meh*
    Nothing lasts forever but I was expecting a little more longevity then a year.

    In hind sight, if I had to do it all over again I would spend a little more money for a quality light. So if you have this light or you're considering it, don't set your expectations too high. You get what you pay for.

    I'll keep you guys posted on my build.
    You say the light is still going strong. How much more money did you have to invest (new charger, new battery, different mount) to make it a reliable light?


    *****

  98. #398
    mtbr member
    Reputation: spartacus001's Avatar
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    On its 3rd year and still working

    I love the versatility of the custom battery pack.
    I can take the single 18650s to run my other handheld flashlights.

    I'm very tempted to pick up the latest 3-emitter head.

  99. #399
    the half breed devil
    Reputation: shekky's Avatar
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    after a little over a year and a half of moderate (2 x wk) use, my battery is apparently fading.

    it just plain quit on me last night after less than two hours of use. fortunately, i use two lights and really didn't need two lights where it quit.

    for $35, you get what you pay for.

  100. #400
    mtbr member
    Reputation: spartacus001's Avatar
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    If the Emitter head is still good then your can replace it with a high quality battery pack. I made my own pack:
    Needing Expert Advice with a 4-cell 2P2S build

    And I recently picked up the 3x XML for my helmet. It's a shooter rather then a flooder but no real difference in light output compared to a single XML.

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