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  1. #1
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    real actual runtimes on the xs

    I get

    2h 2min and
    2h 1 min

    on both my battery packs light is set to 90%.

    It should be 2.5h on this setting according to gloworm but i only get 4/5 of it.

    i rigged this up like this: I have an xs light shining in the ceiling with 4 computer fans cooling it, it never gets hot, or warm.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  2. #2
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    this is how it looks like.

    now i'm running 100% (factory reset) and we'll see how it goes.

    real actual runtimes on the xs-xs1.jpg
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  3. #3
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    Looking forward to the update.

  4. #4
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    Hi I did do another run shortly after posting that. I ran it on 100%. The first warning flash appeared before the 2 h mark, but the light ran with more and more warning flashes for a lot longer.

    23:04 lights on
    00:42 first warning flash
    01:02 still running but much more frequent flashes
    01:19 still on. But now I turn it off to spare the battery.

    The last hour was pretty much all on red. The gauge on the battery doesn't seem too accurate imo. Basically it stays a long time in red and a long time in the green dot above the red but the other 2 it passes very quick.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  5. #5
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    on 90% the first warning flashes appeared after 2h2m. this is probably the best point to turn it off to not ruin the battery prematurely.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  6. #6
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    I've noticed this type of thing a lot on the bike forums that discuss lights. Coming from a flashlight background, this kind of thing is good to do every once in a while, but a much better way is to do the following:

    1. Measure current draw for your light on whatever mode you want to know the runtime for (On my XS, High draws 3.50amps at 8.35Volts, by the way).
    2. Measure your battery back capacity using a "Hobby Charger" (like the Turnigy Accucell 6 at Hobby King (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...cessories.html).
    3. Physics
    3. Profit

    For example, I have a 2S2P pack with 3400 18650's, so this gives me a theoretical 6800mAh. If my XS draws 3.50amps throughout the battery life, then I would get about 1.94 hours of runtime. Of course, this is a little high compared to real life run times, but this is the basic math.

  7. #7
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    I just couldn't figure out how I would get the multimeter in between the battery and the light (without destrying something), otherwise I would have done that.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  8. #8
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    I can see being bummed your lightset isn't burning as long as promissed but other then checking your product to see if what the manufacture promised is true does this have any really meaning? I guess if you always left your light on one setting then you could know exactly how long you could ride but I can't like of anyone besides roadie commuters that do that.

    I recently got 3:30hrs out of XS with the 6800 GW battery before the first flash. I've leaned to ignore the battery gauge on all these lights since it's not a true reading and is highly influenced by what level of output your currently running the light at.

    I'm not criticizing you, I'm just trying to understand why?

  9. #9
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    I saw the gauge turning to red really fast when I was out riding and I wanted to investigate.

    You get 3:30 on high??

    I am a roadie commuter
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by car bone View Post
    I saw the gauge turning to red really fast when I was out riding and I wanted to investigate.

    You get 3:30 on high??

    I am a roadie commuter
    No I got 3:30 on vairious settings since I only use it for MTBing and it never on one setting for more then a few minutes before switching to the next setting for a different trail. My battery goes red quite early as well but the warning flash has always come much later and more accurately.

    I road bike commuter uses an X2 on high but I don't ride it much since I have a 30 mile commute and I start work at 5am

  11. #11
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    Yeah that sounds a bit excessive to ride every day.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by car bone View Post
    on 90% the first warning flashes appeared after 2h2m. this is probably the best point to turn it off to not ruin the battery prematurely.
    You're not going to hurt the battery by running it to depletion. When the voltage gets too low the battery protection will kick in and turn it off like it's suppose to. Most people are not going to run a battery to the point of cut-off on a regular basis. Now if you run the battery to cut-off on a regular basis you might age the battery faster but unless you do it all the time you're not really going to hurt the battery.

    Battery indicators are always kind of screwy. Depending on your type of usage and the ambient air temperature you never really know exactly what they mean. Best you can do is to just get a general idea of the run time and go with it. As long as you aren't overly using the higher output levels you aren't going to have any problems. Part of the experience of night riding is knowing your equipment and how to get the most from it. No one really needs to run 2000 plus lumen for an extended period. Most of the time when I ride I'm switching between the 300 and 600 lumen settings ( bars ) and only use the high setting for downhills or super fast sections.

    With a good battery ( which you have ) you shouldn't have any worries doing 3-4hr rides as long as you use only the output you really need. For longer rides you might want to carry a back-up battery. Personally, I use a small single cell XM-L torch for back-up. If for some reason I run out of battery juice I have the torch to get me out of the woods. The torch alone running on medium power will run for 3hrs on a good Panasonic cell so I have no fears of being caught back in the woods without a light source.

  13. #13
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    Jim tells me the battery indicator was designed for the X2 not for the XS, XS current draw may make it flaky. He said to not worry when the indicator turns off. They're working on it and they will replace XS batteries when it goes into production.

    I did an almost 4 hr ride last night on various settings, I ran it on high for the last hour, the indicator was off for the last 45mins, no problem it seems.


    Quote Originally Posted by RojoRacing53 View Post
    No I got 3:30 on vairious settings since I only use it for MTBing and it never on one setting for more then a few minutes before switching to the next setting for a different trail. My battery goes red quite early as well but the warning flash has always come much later and more accurately.

    I road bike commuter uses an X2 on high but I don't ride it much since I have a 30 mile commute and I start work at 5am

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by car bone View Post
    I just couldn't figure out how I would get the multimeter in between the battery and the light (without destrying something), otherwise I would have done that.
    Oh very good point man, I actually forgot about that important part. I went and bought some connectors on amazon, both male and female, that match these type of bike lights. Something like these guys: Amazon.com: HDVD New 10pack 10 inch(30cm) 2.1 x 5.5mm DC Power Pigtail MALE: Electronics

    Using those connectors, both the male and female and also some small alligator clips, you'll be able to quickly and easily place your multimeter in line with the circuit. Let me know if you have any questions about that part and I can take some pictures and write up some more details for you.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by car bone View Post
    I get

    2h 2min and
    2h 1 min

    on both my battery packs light is set to 90%.

    It should be 2.5h on this setting according to gloworm but i only get 4/5 of it.

    i rigged this up like this: I have an xs light shining in the ceiling with 4 computer fans cooling it, it never gets hot, or warm.
    Hi All

    I just wanted to clarify a few things as there seems to be a bit of misunderstanding regarding runtimes on the XS.

    The XS has a specified 2hr runtime NOT a 2.5hr. This is stated on the website Gloworm Performance Products - Gloworm XS LED Light System V1.0 (2200 Lumen) and in the instruction manual.

    Also regarding the current, there are 2 currents evident in any system. Current draw from the battery and current supplied to the LEDs. In this case we supply 2.2 A to the LEDs at an LED voltage of 9.54V (theoretical). As the battery is only 7.4v the current from the battery will be higher than that provided to the LEDs.

    We using a switching regulator circuit to manage the required current/voltage to the LEDs to attain the light output as managed by the user. Our circuit has been tested at up to 95% efficient, however efficiency in the circuit varies at different currents between 91% to 96%.

    I hope this clarifies a few things.

    Cheers!

    Bruce and Vag
    Gloworm

  16. #16
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    It says 2.5h for 90% setting on the chart. And I think it manages that. I initially thought the warning flash would indicate that the battery is empty, but it turns out it runs much longer after the first warning flash. I didn't know that when I had it on 90% and did the first test.

    The light and battery exceeds the specs. Good work.

    Also I have an idea for a new product for you. A special cold weather battery pack where you simply use the best zub zero performing cells.
    For me this would be nice since I have a feeling I would get quite a lot shorter runtimes when its -10C outside, but I know there are some li-ion chemistries that perform very good in the cold but obviously they are not 3400mah cells to begin with. I think my brothers car uses one of those kinds.
    The plastic on the pack could be white or light gray instead, with a snow flake logo.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

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