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  1. #1
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    "overclocking"older Dinotte V/120l's @ 6v?

    So I have a pair of the original Dinotte V aa engines. Right out of the box they always had a problem where 4 fully charged nimh aa's would run on high for about 2-3 minutes then lock onto low battery mode. I've been dealing with these buggers for a few years and thinking "why can't I run them on 5 aa's?" They always were spec'd to run on 1.5 alkalines, they are over 6 volt out of the package together.
    In fact I bet 5 aa nimh hot off the charger are the same voltage as 4 new energizers out of the pack.
    Anyone try this? Think I should?
    All bikes weigh 50 lbs. a 50lb. bike doesn't need a lock. a 40lb bike needs a 10lb. lock. a 30 lb. bike needs a 20lb. lock.

  2. #2
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    okay I must have had a brain fart, which is usually when I create a topic.
    just pulled 4 newish duraloops off the charger, together they are 5.75 or about 1.43 each.
    I don't have any smokin' new aa alkalines to compare, I have some aa's that are 3 years old with minimal use, they show 1.6~ but IIIRC new ones are around 1.7+~ or so. So I wonder what happens if I give these dinottes 7.15 volts Willing to try, they are frustrating underperformers, never have worked as advertised. I mean they are reliable but shouldn't drop to low battery mode in 2-3 minutes on new duraloops. Both lights do it and always have, ain't the batteries.
    For awhile I was using some homemade 4 x a packs, a little more reserve, but they were made with used surplus a's and are giving up the ghost. Shame, taped together, 4 a's fit in the dinotte battery bag. Expensive to buy new tho and my surplus outlet is out now.
    Have a slew of unprotected 18650's from laptop batteries, had thought about using a DC-DC adaptor but the whole idea got silly when I figured adding a battery holder,a charger, etc. woulda been about 85 bucks from battery junction to go that route and that's with me already having the cells. 1 4x holder with 2x 7.2+ output and 2 dc-dc adaptor circuits = PITA.
    All bikes weigh 50 lbs. a 50lb. bike doesn't need a lock. a 40lb bike needs a 10lb. lock. a 30 lb. bike needs a 20lb. lock.

  3. #3
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    Why the heck didn't you contact DiNotte when you first got the lights and found then to not work correctly??? Give them a call and see if they can help at this late date.

  4. #4
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    I added an extra battery externally on the hope 1 vision to stop it dimming noticeably very early on, 5 x 1.43 = 7.15 or 4 x 1.6 = 6.4, either way the driver should handle it and the extra voltage will stop triggering the low voltage when the batterys are fully charged hassle those things suffer with.

    2 x 18650 would be nicer, but looking at 8.4V fully charged, that might be over doing it.

    Just splice a extra cell on it's own single pack into the wiring, cut the positive wire and wire a battery between the 2 ends, easy.

  5. #5
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    I don't think the Dinotte-V were ever designed to run on AA alkalines, in fact I don't think they will even fire up, alkalines cannot output enough startup current. You can run them on 1.5V Lithiums, we use to carry them as backups cells.

    NiMH have worked fine with our V's, and we still use them. Either something is wrong with your V, or your batteries are toast. Due to the current draw, the NiMH's have to be in decent shape, the light engine runs them pretty hard. If one out of the 4 batteries are weak, the light will drop into low.

    The Vf (forward voltage) on the Luxeon-V is around 6.4 or 6.5. The battery pack cannot exceed the Vf as the driver is a boost circuit. Exceeding the Vf will cause the engine to go into direct drive, which will shorten the life of the LED.

    If something is wrong with the Light engine, I would give Dinotte a call, they have always taken care of any issues we have had.

  6. #6
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    I'll just come out and say it: If the Dinotte V is not working I would contact Dinotte. My bet is they will just replace it with a 200L which, if I do say so, would be a win, win for you.

    FWIW, BatterySpace makes a 4 cell 18650 Li-ion battery coupled with a 6 volt voltage regulator that works very well with a standard 200L light engine.

    P.S. If they offer you a 200L be sure to request both the narrow and flood optic so you have a choice. The optics are real easy to switch out. Wide works well for the bars, narrow for the helmet.

  7. #7
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    I think all the replies here were sound, the most prudent option would be to contact dinotte and see if they are willing to rectify this at low or no cost.
    Note I recently purchased 3 4 packs of "duraloops" the white top duracells advertised as LSD with 1500x recharge, (guessing these are improved eneloops, made in Japan the label said) all cells are good and hot off any of my 3 chargers they read over 1.4 volts each and both engines will go ino low battery state in about a minute. Every time.
    If it's going to cost the $75 a pop upgrade I'm just going to solder them together (easy with a 60w iron for about 2 seconds and a blowbulb of ice water NOW to cool 'em before internally damaged) in 5 packs and try my luck. I have a nimh universal smart charger will do fine on them.

    First will contact dinotte. Oh the reason I didn't contact them right off was that the buzz around the internet, and IIRC a few people here mentioned this, was that this was the way they were and that was that.

    and I hate returning ****. I have like 5-6 pairs of new shoes in a closet I wore once, they hurt, didn't take em back. Stores must love people like me.
    All bikes weigh 50 lbs. a 50lb. bike doesn't need a lock. a 40lb bike needs a 10lb. lock. a 30 lb. bike needs a 20lb. lock.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by batvette
    ...and I hate returning ****. I have like 5-6 pairs of new shoes in a closet I wore once, they hurt, didn't take em back. Stores must love people like me.
    ...just to let you know, you aren't the only one that does this. ( I'm also like that with other clothes, wear it once, decide I don't like it for some reason and then throw it in a box.)

    I have both the Eneloops and the Duracell AA LSD batteries. They work very well with the 200L although I rarely use the 200L anymore.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by batvette
    ... the reason I didn't contact them right off was that the buzz around the internet, and IIRC a few people here mentioned this, was that this was the way they were and that was that....
    Not with new batteries at warm temperatures. We bought several of these back when they first came out, and they all worked fine above ~5C, but when the temperatures dropped below freezing, the LED would turn red indicating low voltage, but the lights would still run well over an hour at full power. Since the batteries are being run hard, and their performance drops at lower temperature, they cannot maintain both output voltage and current. Winter time is night riding time for us, and the AA powered Dinotte-V's have been reliable for several winters. I think there is something wrong with your unit.

    I have some Eveready NiMH that lasted 2 years with good run times, although the last winter was definitely poorer, both in run time and self discharge.


    Quote Originally Posted by batvette
    ... and I hate returning ****. I have like 5-6 pairs of new shoes in a closet I wore once, they hurt, didn't take em back. Stores must love people like me.
    I usually tear them apart and (attempt) to fix/modify something instead of returning it. With shoes, they just end up in the basement...

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