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  1. #1
    SoCal mtbr
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    Niterider Pro 1400 users out there?

    I'm looking for opinions on this unit. It doesn't seem like there are many Niterider Pro owners out there. Are there a lot of problems with this setup of is it so good no one has any complaints about it and that's why I can't find much info on it?

  2. #2
    TCW
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    Last year's model got a really good review from Francois in the shootout.

    (edited because I is a retart and moran)
    Last edited by TCW; 12-29-2010 at 10:13 AM.

  3. #3
    Goats Rule!
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    Here's my take on it, and I've had a Pro 1200, 1400 and a Pro 700:

    The Pro 1400 has improved connectors over the 1200 - they won't come undone easily like the Pro 1200 and 600 ones did.

    The Pro 1400 has the fiber optic indicators on the top like the old Digital series to tell you which bulb (or both) are on. The Pro 1200 did not have this. It's cool but not needed. Actually, it's a bit distracting.

    The beam is great - honestly, great. One of the best ones I've seen for bar use. Don't even think of a 1400 on the lid - it's way too heavy and sticks up too far. I also really like the bar mount. You can center the light on the bars, remove the light head easily, adjust it any way you want.

    The light runs a really long time and the customization options for which bulb to run and at what output is a really good feature in my mind, but having to plug the light into the charger to do so sucks. It's nice you can have 4 different programs of 6 setting each stored in the light and access them from the head though, so you really only have to use the USB programming feature once and forget about it.

    With some improvements, I would have kept the light. Improvements would be in the following deficiencies:

    The battery. It's huge. It's heavy. I hated having to slide it off the tray and stick it in an external charger that doesn't always make contact with the battery. I loved the Trinewt battery since you could leave it on the bike and just plug the charger lead into it. It was also easy to remove and re-mount. I know you need that monster battery for good runtime at the highest output setting, and I could deal with the size and weight were it not for the charger and cradle. Even the cradle would be fine if I could charge the battery in the cradle.

    The charger is a monster. Why does it have to be so huge? Why not come up with a charger that just plugs into the cradle cable allowing you to charge the battery? Simple wall wart with a cable would be nice. For light head programming, a USB cable with the appropriate connector to the light head and a driver.

    In the end I sold it and got a Cygolite Centauri. You can program light output from the head, although not individual beam output. Less output but a much smaller size overall, smaller battery, better charger. The beam is amazing and smoother than that of the 1400, and I really loved the 1400 beam.

  4. #4
    SoCal mtbr
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    KingOfTheHill,

    Thanks for all the info! I'm not too concerned with weight so that's not going to be an issue. Seems like light output should be plenty and I'm getting a pretty good price so I guess I'm going for it.

  5. #5
    Goats Rule!
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    You're welcome.

    Couple of things since you'll be getting one. Check to make sure you get the right extension cable in the box. This is the cable that goes from the battery cradle to the light head to extend it so you can run the battery in a camelbak if helmet mounted. NiteRider shipped quite a few Pro 1400 and 700's with the extension cable for the Pro 1200/600 lights. The look the same but are not - the one you want has a slit going down it vertically. Plug the extension cable in - if it doesn't make solid contact, you have the wrong one. NiteRider will ship you the correct one at no charge if you get the wrong one.

    The battery - if you plug the cables in wrong or twist them when connecting them (they push straight in, no twisting is needed), the battery protection circuit will kick in and the light won't work. It just won't turn on until you place the battery back in the charger to re-set the circuit. No big deal if you're at home, but on the trail - it's going to be dark getting home. There is only one right way to connect the cables and it's pretty intuitive, but practice plugging in the cables at home a few times until you get the feel for them and it shouldn't be an issue. Just something to keep in mind. If the light is bar mounted, you probably won't disconnect the light on the trail anyway unless you take a fall and the bars twist quite a bit and pull the cables apart.

  6. #6
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    I know i'm not part of this post,but after reading your very well put precautions,i need to also thank you KingOfTheHill as a good buddy of mine is picking up the NR Pro 1400 today.I will forward your good info to him.Cheers!!!

  7. #7
    SoCal mtbr
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    Wow, you called it KingOfTheHill! I just picked up the 1400 and the extension cable does not fit. It looks almost the same but is not. Niterider is local to me so I'll be swinging by to pick up the correct cable.

  8. #8
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    Have a Pro 700 on my helmet and Pro 1400 on the bike. I love it no problems with either system. DIY software is basic but it does what it is designed to do. I haven't had a single issue.

  9. #9
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    I've been using the Race 700 and Pro 14 for a few months. I only go a few hours at night in the woods, so I bought another 4 cell for the 1400. With the two beams set at 500 lumens and the 700 set at 700 lumens, I've got no prob seeing in tight singletrack. DIY software took some time to get used to when it came to saving the settings in the right program, but now a veteran user, is easy as can be. I bought both sets on ebay (329 and 359 respectively) and love them!

  10. #10
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    anybody got interested in a softer beam ?
    uniform soft flare.
    probably a nice addition to a pro 1400,
    to just change 1 reflector.

    need to drum up some interest, developing is expensive.

    there is not much to improve,
    but then again, any improvement or choice in my perspective is a bonus.
    so let me know, contact me.

    cheers, Rob
    http://mtbl.robs-x.com

  11. #11
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    Just to mention one thing about a possible negative mentioned in the well thought out review above - I have the TriNewt and am moving to the 1400 or 700 because of the battery mount on the tri newt. For my bike, which has sloping tubes, wherever I put it, it moves to places I don't want it - gets in the way of the shock, my legs, waterbottle or whatever. I even had guys at the bikestore play with it for a bit with no better results. So I really like the 'semi-permanent' style of mounting that the 700/1400 has.

    However, I completely agree it should be chargeable on the bike as the TriNewt is.

    Also, compared to the tri-newt the handlebar connection is 10x better, and more like the niteriders of old, many of which I've owned (original and pro-6 or something).

    Someone said the battery is heavy, they sell, for that semi-permanent mount three different batteries with 4 cells, 6 cells and 8 cells. The 700 comes with a 6, and the 1400 comes with an 8. So you can buy the 1400, and also get a 4-cell battery for use with reduced output, or for max output on shorter rides i.e., for rides where the light is to get you home and not a full intended night ride.

    As I get older that is more of my use-case, I want to get home in good form, maybe on 4 hr ride during winter last hour is in the dark vs leaving the house at midnight for a 4 hr ride like we used to . So the 1400 with smallest battery is perfect for that.

    Here is the link for the other batteries:

    http://www.niterider.com/store_batteries.shtml

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