New Mickey Mouse light on DX
Ill bite and order one today. Was already planning on getting one of the eBay XML t6s. Might as well try this instead.
I was just looking at one of these and was concerned there were no reviews at all. I would be very interested in what you think of it.
Will do a review, for sure. Probably wont show up for another week and a half or two though.
I bought essentially the identical lightset off eBay for about $60 from HK sellers a few weeks ago and received it last week. eBay sellers advertise it as 2400 lumens (gross exaggeration).
Same light configuration (upside down Mickey Mouse), same battery case (it's a 4 cell battery just like the MagicShines but in a overkill heavy duty aluminum can), same remote switch.
At first I thought it used the same housing(s) as the MagicShine MJ-816. However, the actual light appears to be a unique extrusion/machining, as the measurements don't match up with what odtexas posted in this thread (can't post actual links yet as I'm only at 9 posts):
The MJ-816 appears to be 88mm wide, whereas this version measures out at 83.5mm.
The individual side pods on the MJ-816 appear to be 24.9mm from the other thread, while the one I bought measures 23.9mm.
The center light on the MJ-816 has a 33.21mm diameter reflector (at widest point) as stated in the other thread. The one I have has a 30.9mm reflector.
Construction quality looks pretty decent, but thermal energy transfer looks pretty iffy. From what I can tell none of the 3 LEDs are screwed down to their bases, but there may be thermal epoxy. But on the center light, the whole LED assy seems to be firmly mounted to the aluminum base, but the whole assembly, including the aluminum base, is somewhat loose inside it's black housing so it appears to just sit in it, rather than tightly engaging it by being threaded in.
Shaking the light with the crown and reflector removed causes it to rattle slightly, but it's solid and rattle free when the crown and reflector are screwed down. I wouldn't run this light on any of the higher settings unless I was on the move.
So, overall, not an exact copy of the MJ-816. Other differences are the lens and reflectors. The MJ-816 uses an orange peel reflector for the center light whereas the one I bought, and as shown on DX's website, uses a smooth reflector. On the MJ-816 the side pods use an optic but with a wide angle lens (like the eBay wide angle lens for the MJ808), while this other also uses an optic instead of a reflector, but only a regular clear lens.
The result is a light that ends up being somewhat spotty and not necessarily ideal for handlebar use, even though that seems to be the intended use. It is quite bright though. I'm going to try to make it wider by ordering one of the eBay wide angle lens for the center light and see if my friend can turn it down to the right diameter for me on his lathe.
The power connector would seem to be compatible with the Magicshines however, as it won't plug into the DX 85210 (which I also bought) but does plug into the battery for a light I bought off eBay last year, a P7 MJ-808 clone.
One other thing to be aware of, the light appealed to me because it's not as awkward looking as the MJ-816, with the side pods low instead of high, but there could be clearance issues mounting on some handlebars and stems.
If you have riser bars the width of the light housing may require the light be mounted as close to the center of the bar as possible, tucked right up to the side of the stem. However, if your stem is particularly chunky, or is a 2 bolt style stem, the top of the stem may interfere with the bottom of the side pod and not allow the light to sit level on the bar.
If you have one of the stems that use 4 bolts for the faceplate (2 top, 2 bottom) and is machined and relieved between the two top bolts the bottom of the side pod may just nestle nicely in that relief. The bottom of the pod may still touch at times so put something in between to keep them from marking each other up.
It could also be used as a helmet light, but it's a bit on the heavy side, at approx 150gms for the light unit itself, and 192gms total, including the remote switch and wiring. This could be counterbalanced with a battery on the back of the helmet, but I wouldn't use the one that came with it as is, as it's very heavy with the aluminum case. Either take the 4 cell pack out, or use a spare MagicShine or equivalent pack.
Still, at $60 (I got another for a friend at $55) and free shipping it's pretty hard to beat for value.
I'll try to take some pics of the unit and the beam pattern against a wall and post them up when I get a chance.
Last edited by NightBiker; 11-08-2011 at 04:35 PM.
The ones I had posted from ebay ebay seem to be ending in the $71-77 range.
If only they used OP reflectors, it would make for a better, more spread out beam, and would be a great deal.
Be interested to hear whether you can make one of the wide angle lenses from ebay fit with some trimming.
shouldn't be hard at all to modify the wide angle lense to fit. If you even have to mod it. Could even make two small ones for the sides.
? How would I use it without modifying it? The eBay wide angle lens is 39mm in diameter and would not fit into the crown, which has a 31mm ID.
I did think about the two side ones, but that would require even more material to be removed from the eBay lens. The small pods appear to have an ID of approx 18mm but I have not been able to separate the small black crown from the silver cup. I believe the optic is clamped by this black crown into the silver cup.
If I can make a lens for the center light it would probably make modifying the side lights redundant, as combined they only put out about half the light of the center.
I only said if it had to be because I didn't know the measurements on either. Are the W/A lenses glass or composite?
edit: never mind, it's polycarbonate. Should be really easy to modify with a dremel or other handheld rotary tool.
Another Review of the Light
I have been riding with the “TrustFire CREE XML-T6 + XPE-R2 “ for about a month now, and just wanted to add my two cents and pictures onto NighBiker’s great review-
4400 mAh 8.4v, four cell, Li-ion battery
Only a slight exaggeration that you could drive a small car over the aluminum case it comes in (shown disassembled in the picture). It is beefy. It has small rubber O-rings on both ends, and a fairly tight seal that the cord runs through on the lid. You can’t go scuba diving with it, but I would feel fairly comfortable putting it on the top of my car and driving down the road at 65mph in the rain though.
The three lights are screwed into the bases with a recessed allen bolt. I’ve ridden on some single track with my cross bike (read ‘no suspension’) and it was fine, though the light will slip a little due to the attachment system. There are some cheap aftermarket clamps that will help. Like NightBiker said, I wouldn’t turn the light onto the higher settings without moving due to the heat generated and lack of a good thermal dispersion.
I only own an instant camera, so I can’t set the aperture, exposure, etc. Sorry! Hope these pictures give you a little better idea of the T6, however. Any suggestions are welcome and I’ll see what I can do.
The power switch is identical to the MJ-816, with green, blue, yellow, red to indicate how much juice is left. It also has stepless dimming by holding down the switch with any of the three settings. There is no annoying flash/seizure inducing mode. Note in the pictures the length of the feed to the power switch is ridiculously long. I have to wrap it up to keep it out of the way.
This thing is really bright. It’s brighter than the high beams on most cars, throws a lot of light, but does have a bright spot in the center. I have a NiteRider with an advertised 350 lumen on my helmet, and the T6 makes it pretty useless, except for switchbacks.
I love the light. It seems pretty solid for the month of commuting and some light single track riding I’ve done with it. You can’t beat it for the price though. The design is not ideal (reverse Micky Mouse), but seems to fit fine as you can see in the pictures. I’ve only seen this for as low as $76, but others may have a link to a cheaper price.
NOT SHOWN IN THE PICTURE:
The charger and (almost comical) manual. Also, the manual calls this the ‘TrustFire TR-D003’, rather than the T6 used on ebay, amazon, and DX.
Hope this is of help.
Last edited by cbccoach; 12-23-2011 at 03:26 PM.
Nice write up coach!
Welcome to MTBR
Illumination Pictures/Beam Pattern…Finally
Thanks for feedback Znomit.
Fence is 50 feet away in the attached photos of the beam pattern.
1) All three lights of the ‘TrustFire CREE XML-T6 + XPE-R2’ illuminated.
2) The second picture is a NiteRider MiNewt 150 with an advertised 150 lumen, simply as a reference. Sorry for the blurriness, but hopefully it works well as a reference.
3) The third picture is simply the backyard in the daylight, as a reference as well.
• Camera: Canon TL220 Instant Camera
• Setting: Automatic
• ISO: Unknown
• Exposure: 1 second
• Aperture: F3.5
• Focus: Auto
• White Balance: Daylight?
Please send a pro camera and I'll post some better pictures.
Hah, I bet your neighbors were pissed when the sun was shining into their house at night...
I like to ride Bikes. This might be turning into an obsession, not sure?
I finally recieved mine a couple weeks ago. I think it was 6 1/2 - 7 weeks from time of order to arriving on my doorstep.
It's a solid light, I have a trinewt on my helmet and this on my bars and I don't ever find myself wishing I had more light. Water resistance seems pretty awesome. I did a night ride in some raid and when I was done both the light and battery were covered in mud, no issue at all.
In reference to "spot" pattern. I wouldn't say it's really so bad. It actually has a decent amount of side spill. If I get off my butt and get the camera out I'll take comparison shots against the trinewt.
The battery can is pretty awesome too and it's really not heavy. For $80, it's definitely worth the price. The only down side is how long dealextreme vendors take to ship.
edit: I want to add something about the cooling/heat as well. I've been riding in weather from 28F-50F with it on full and when we come to a break it doesn't warm up much at all. However, inside my home when I was playing around with it, it would heat up significantly on full after about 10 minutes. I guess the point I'm trying to make is if you're stopping long enough for it to heat up you're probably going to switch it to low anyway. Don't be scared about the heat.
Last edited by Tim-H; 01-13-2012 at 12:33 PM.
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