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  1. #1
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    New clone 3 x XML T-6 49.88 shipped

    Ok, here is the link. I took the plunge for this price. I have a newer barley used GEO 6.0 battery that I will use w/ this and just keep the one w/ the unit as a back up.

    3X CREE XM-L T6 LED 3800Lm LED Headlight Headlamp Bicycle Bike Light | eBay

    I'll post on this thread when I get it and give some details, what I think actual lumens are, etc. Sorry, don't have a way to actually test it but I do have a Dinotte XML-3 so I can measure off that.

    Hope it actually works and hope I actually get it. Says delivery Sept 29th - Oct 5th which means Oct 5th.

    Oh yeah, only has a 1 month warranty. I'll just have to make sure I use it on low when climbing.

    More to follow.

    MB

  2. #2
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    Yep, hard not to lay money down when the prices are that low.
    The 4400mAh battery is too small to power a 3 x XM-L set up UNLESS the lamp is very under-driven. Even your Geoman 6.0 battery would have a hard time powering a lamp like this if the emitters are fully driven. The only reason I say that is because someone said their GM 6.0 battery had a hard time driving the Gemini Olympia. The Gemini Olympia though is a very bright lamp and likely pulling a good amount of power.

    Let us know how it works out. Heck, even if it only looks like 1500 lumen you still got your monies worth. Let us know how it compares to the DiNotte XML 3.

    There's going to be a lot of bike light vendors reaching for the Xanax when they start seeing these roll out.

  3. #3
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    I can't build something that cheap and it won't look anywhere near as nice.

  4. #4
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    Hey Cat

    I'm not the most knowledgeable about the currents, etc but the listing says it's running at 1A. I'll assume that is somewhat under driven and probably putting out a realistic 1000 lumens, about 300-350 per LED.

    If that's the case, it might actually work fairly well and not overheat. And yeah, my first thought was the battery would not drive it.

    We'll see.

    MB

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by mb323323 View Post
    Hey Cat

    I'm not the most knowledgeable about the currents, etc but the listing says it's running at 1A. I'll assume that is somewhat under driven and probably putting out a realistic 1000 lumens, about 300-350 per LED.

    If that's the case, it might actually work fairly well and not overheat. And yeah, my first thought was the battery would not drive it.

    We'll see.

    MB
    Actually the 1-amp listing is for the charger. What the light head is doing is anyone's guess. You should be able to tell a lot just from the run time. The longer the run time on high the less the current draw is ( generally speaking ). For fully driven emitters with the battery that is being sold with the lamp I would think run time to be about 1 hr and 15 minutes on high. If the run time ends up being longer than the output is less than optimal. Personally I feel if it gets 1.5hr on high ( with supplied battery ) I would be thrilled. That would indicate the lamp is drawing a decent amount of juice and the resultant lumen output should be very bright.

  6. #6
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    Six and half hours to charge the battery... oh that's going to be fun. Thank god I own several magicshine chargers at 1.8A output. Anyway the XM-Ls are capable of using 10W each and the battery is 32.5W (3.7 nominal voltage @ 2.2A per cell times four cells) so yeah, full power you're looking at an hour at high and then you wanna change the battery pack.
    I don't post to generate business for myself or make like I'm better than sliced bread

  7. #7
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    The producer advertises this light with 20 watt. Its a triple T6, its small, probably lightweight too and its rock bottom CHEAP, 40 $.

    A spare 6cell battery will be 17$, making it 3 sets with 4cell and 6cell battery each, incl. shipping for around 200$.
    goldrunhui.en.alibaba.com/product/634983612-213894431/GoldRunhui_RH_B0041_20W_3_XML_3T6_LED_2000LM_18650 _Aluminum_Bicycle_Light.h
    The XML U2 has been measured in an “Ulbricht sphere” at 60-degree temperature (between 25 and 80degree is an increasing drop of efficiency, reaching 15% at 3A) and at 6,65 Watt at around 700lm and 105lm/w.
    That’s a total current draw of 2,2AH at 3x 6,65w= 20w.

    Subtract:
    5-8% for the T6/U2 efficiency difference,
    20% -30% efficiency of circuits and optics.
    So 700lm -30/40% = 500lm - 400lumen x3= 1200 – 1500lm OFT,
    a bit meagre, but very good lumen/watt ratio at 2,2Ah.
    Therefore, it’s a bit better than a 4up XPG, but cheaper and more efficient.
    Some sites advertise it correctly with 1200lm.
    cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1740
    Lumen/watt is around 100lm/w at lower current,
    Lumen/$ is around 30 per greenback.

    The question is how the beam looks like.
    The SMO reflector suggest throw, but 44,5 mm diameter is rather small,
    but depth of 56mm could be sufficient. Weight is around 100-150gramm,
    I guessed.

    I really look forward to some beam shots soon here.

    The Fluxient 3x U2 is certainly better,
    But if the throw of the RH B004 is good and the weight light,
    2 of them with a spare battery will cost the same as 1 Fluxient.

  8. #8
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    photos

    first photo 1xXML (with modded reflector, more flow),
    second, the cheap 3xXML
    third, the Niteye B20 (2xXML U2)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-1-xml.jpg  

    New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-3-x-xml.jpg  

    New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-niteye-b20-2xxml-u2.jpg  


  9. #9
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    I decided to try this thing out too. A variant however with a 6400mah battery pack... 3800 Lum 3x Cree XM-L XML T6 LED HeadLamp Headlight Bicycle Lamp Bike Car Light | eBay

    Hopefully it works when it shows up

  10. #10
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    Bad A. 10 bucks more but you get a better battery if you can actually believe them.

    Rein, I'm actually hoping the actual lumens is around 1200 which will tell me that it's not over driven and will actually work. The Dinotte XML-3 that I have is 1034 tested lumens and is more than enough light for the bars and only gets warm-almost hot if you leave it on high for a while w/o air flow. As soon as you move, the unit never runs more than just warm on the high setting.

    Clone should be here in a week or so and I'll post picts, etc.

    Just can't beat the price unless it's fails quick as it only has a 1 MONTH warranty. Time will tell all.

    MB

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mb323323 View Post
    Bad A. 10 bucks more but you get a better battery if you can actually believe them.
    Yup, I know. It's gotta be true... it's just gotta! It's printed in plain black & white, and it's on the internet! It's official

    We'll see when it shows. If the battery is the 4400mah, then so be it.

  12. #12
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    Keep us updated... Im looking at this clone, and the other standard clone people seem to say is decent....

    Buy CREE XML XM-L T6 LED Bike Bicycle Light HeadLight HeadLamp 1200LM 9W for Wholesale - Free Shipping

    I splurged at Action LED for a more quality light on the helmet, and want to have something a little less $ on the bars..... Trying to wrap my head around the conversations going on in the forum makes my head spin, but reviews and abbreviated threads like this are most helpful figuring out run times, functionality, and what wont crap out on the first few rides.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by yiannakas View Post
    first photo 1xXML (with modded reflector, more flow),
    second, the cheap 3xXML
    third, the Niteye B20 (2xXML U2)
    Nice comparison shots. The 3xml and the 2xml look about the same. I realize the Niteye B20 is better quality and has more features, but at over 3 times the cost. The extra features aren't things that I particularly need, so I'd happily go with the 3xml (better yet, 2of them).

  14. #14
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    The clone arrived today.

    I'm not sure how to upload pictures to the site but when I figure it out, I'll upload.

    The light head looks pretty well built. Aluminum probably. The connectors do work w/ MS and GOE batteries. The connectors are a bit different but they work. The battery supplied is the typical cheap battery most likely and the connectors supplied are lame, they don't even stay connected. However, the GEO connector is much better and secures really well. I'll be using the GEO battery. You'll have to tape the battery supplied connectors together or they will just come apart.

    Typical O ring mounting.

    Now for the light. It's pretty bright. It's a touch brighter than the Dinotte XML-3 so which I am happy about as that tells me it's somewhat under driven. I would guess this to be 1200 real lumens. I have to reserve judgement on heat dissipation as I have not tested that and it was over 100 here today and still mid 80's. SF Bay Area Indian Summer!! The unit got warm/hot after only 10 seconds. Again, I hesitate to say anything regarding this until it cools down some. The beam is somewhat spot but has good peripheral light. Not as good as the Dinotte but they are not apples to apples.

    Overall, I'm impressed w/ the amount of light. I'm not impressed w/ the lame connectors. Time will tell if it's durable.

    1 MONTH warranty!

    Overall, way worth a $50 investment. However, you have to be willing to eat it if it blows after a month.

    I would never ride w/ it as an only light alone.

    Will report back w/ picts and beam shots when I figure it all out.

    MB

    Edit: Forgot, the light head is 4.65 oz. In comparison, the XML-3 Dinotte is 3.55 oz. Overall size is larger than the Dinotte.
    Last edited by mb323323; 10-01-2012 at 10:15 PM.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by mb323323 View Post
    The clone arrived today.

    I'm not sure how to upload pictures to the site but when I figure it out, I'll upload.

    The light head looks pretty well built. Aluminum probably. The connectors do work w/ MS and GOE batteries. The connectors are a bit different but they work. The battery supplied is the typical cheap battery most likely and the connectors supplied are lame, they don't even stay connected. However, the GEO connector is much better and secures really well. I'll be using the GEO battery. You'll have to tape the battery supplied connectors together or they will just come apart.

    Typical O ring mounting.

    Now for the light. It's pretty bright. It's a touch brighter than the Dinotte XML-3 so which I am happy about as that tells me it's somewhat under driven. I would guess this to be 1200 real lumens. I have to reserve judgement on heat dissipation as I have not tested that and it was over 100 here today and still mid 80's. SF Bay Area Indian Summer!! The unit got warm/hot after only 10 seconds. Again, I hesitate to say anything regarding this until it cools down some. The beam is somewhat spot but has good peripheral light. Not as good as the Dinotte but they are not apples to apples.

    Overall, I'm impressed w/ the amount of light. I'm not impressed w/ the lame connectors. Time will tell if it's durable.

    1 MONTH warranty!

    Overall, way worth a $50 investment. However, you have to be willing to eat it if it blows after a month.

    I would never ride w/ it as an only light alone.

    Will report back w/ picts and beam shots when I figure it all out.

    MB

    Edit: Forgot, the light head is 4.65 oz. In comparison, the XML-3 Dinotte is 3.55 oz. Overall size is larger than the Dinotte.
    MB, now you received the light, I'm curious as to what is those pokie dots around the light switch? TIA

  16. #16
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    thanks for the tips guys.
    roccowt.
    rocnbikemeld

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by mb323323 View Post
    The clone arrived today.

    I'm not sure how to upload pictures to the site but when I figure it out, I'll upload.

    The light head looks pretty well built. Aluminum probably. The connectors do work w/ MS and GOE batteries. The connectors are a bit different but they work. The battery supplied is the typical cheap battery most likely and the connectors supplied are lame, they don't even stay connected. However, the GEO connector is much better and secures really well. I'll be using the GEO battery. You'll have to tape the battery supplied connectors together or they will just come apart.

    Typical O ring mounting.

    Now for the light. It's pretty bright. It's a touch brighter than the Dinotte XML-3 so which I am happy about as that tells me it's somewhat under driven. I would guess this to be 1200 real lumens. I have to reserve judgement on heat dissipation as I have not tested that and it was over 100 here today and still mid 80's. SF Bay Area Indian Summer!! The unit got warm/hot after only 10 seconds. Again, I hesitate to say anything regarding this until it cools down some. The beam is somewhat spot but has good peripheral light. Not as good as the Dinotte but they are not apples to apples.

    Overall, I'm impressed w/ the amount of light. I'm not impressed w/ the lame connectors. Time will tell if it's durable.

    1 MONTH warranty!

    Overall, way worth a $50 investment. However, you have to be willing to eat it if it blows after a month.

    I would never ride w/ it as an only light alone.

    Will report back w/ picts and beam shots when I figure it all out.

    MB

    Edit: Forgot, the light head is 4.65 oz. In comparison, the XML-3 Dinotte is 3.55 oz. Overall size is larger than the Dinotte.
    MB, I need some clarification. First you said the lamp was brighter than your DiNotte XML3. Then you said the DiNotte was better. Was that just because the DiNotte is a better build / over-all system or is there something else about the beam pattern of the DiNotte that made it better as well?

    The fact that there is some problems with the connectors goes a long way to explain why they are selling them at the low price. For the record I pulled the trigger on one of these myself because I figured it was worth the money even if the battery was crap. Mine should come in two weeks.

    I'm crossing my fingers in hope that this lamp might be a real thrower and not be too heavy on the helmet. I figure if I end up not liking it I might be able to find someone at work who might want to buy it.

  18. #18
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    Hey Cat

    Yeah, too heavy for the helmet for me. I think most would think it's too heavy as well. Haven't used it on the trail yet. Will Wed eve so I'll get back to you. It does throw pretty well, better than the Dinotte XML-3 but the overall beam pattern is better on the XML-3 as it lights up everything in front of you for about 70 feet pretty much w/ a very even amount of light. The clone has the typical hot spot and darker around the edges. It's a steal though for 50 bucks. Of course the Dinotte is better quality. I'll be interested to see what you think as you own more lights than I do and can make a better assessment.

    Colleen, those dumb looking things seem to be rivets. They must hold something. I thought they would be screws so I could take it apart "when" it fails. Or should I say "if" it fails. If you want, you can borrow and put on your sphere to test lumens.

    MB

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by mb323323 View Post
    Hey Cat

    Yeah, too heavy for the helmet for me. I think most would think it's too heavy as well. Haven't used it on the trail yet. Will Wed eve so I'll get back to you. It does throw pretty well, better than the Dinotte XML-3 but the overall beam pattern is better on the XML-3 as it lights up everything in front of you for about 70 feet pretty much w/ a very even amount of light. The clone has the typical hot spot and darker around the edges. It's a steal though for 50 bucks. Of course the Dinotte is better quality. I'll be interested to see what you think as you own more lights than I do and can make a better assessment.

    Colleen, those dumb looking things seem to be rivets. They must hold something. I thought they would be screws so I could take it apart "when" it fails. Or should I say "if" it fails. If you want, you can borrow and put on your sphere to test lumens.

    MB
    If it ends up not being able to beat out the Xeccon S-12 for throw I will likely try to mod it be more useful as a bar light. Perhaps a separate diffusion lens over one of the LED's might give it a bit more close in spill.

    From what you've said I think it's about 17gms heavier than the S-12. That would make it noticeable, certainly more weight than most would like. However I use the S-12 sometimes with a two cell on the helmet. So far I've not had major complications with that set-up. I figure as long as this clone lamp doesn't cause helmet sag it might just work. We'll see.

  20. #20
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    I saw this today. Cree XM-L T6 LED Bike Light
    It's local so I think I will check it out at somepoint. The lumens doesn't quite add up, but looks interesting.

  21. #21
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    If those are indeed rivots in the back housing, I wonder how they will hold up in term of keeping water out of the housing? Interesting way of holding the unit together unless they are more for cosmetic reasoning.

    I would be interested in a beam comparison of this light with those in the same catagory. Lights in the 1200 lumens range such as Gloworm, clone 872 or even the quad XP-G. A quick test in sphere will determine a relative OTF lumens and a outdoor beamshot will be nice.

  22. #22
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    Ok, rode w/ this on the trail Wed eve. Fire roads and single track.

    When I first tested this in my yard, I thought it might be a little brighter than a Dinotte XML-3. On the trail, it has a hot spot but the peripheral lighting around the hot spot is not as bright as the XML-3 and has those rings around the hot spot.

    Cat, the throw is average. The throw on my clone T-6 is better.

    I forgot to mention this starts on low setting, then medium and high. The difference between medium and high is minimal.

    On the trail I noticed something odd when I turned it on and scrolled through the settings. The beam pattern seemed to change. I then turned it on and looked to see if all the LED's were on and I guessed right after I saw that. Low is 1 LED on, medium is 2 LED's on and high is 3. The difference between medium and high is minimal.

    I works good though for a 50 dollar light. Especially if you have a GEO battery hanging around.

    It never got hot. I even turned it on high up a 20 minute climb and it only got warm. The 6.0 GEO battery lasted approx 3 hours before it turned red. All good signs that this is not over driven.

    Ok, since I'm lame at picts, etc how about I ask Cat to finish the review when his arrives and does beam shots, etc.

    For 50 bucks, I'd buy one but not as an only light.

    Thx

    MB

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by colleen c View Post
    If those are indeed rivots in the back housing, I wonder how they will hold up in term of keeping water out of the housing? Interesting way of holding the unit together unless they are more for cosmetic reasoning.
    Liquid electrical tape like Plastic Dip might be a good idea. It's easy to take off. My only concern would be that it might provide some thermal insulation and cause the light to overheat.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by mb323323 View Post
    ...On the trail I noticed something odd when I turned it on and scrolled through the settings. The beam pattern seemed to change. I then turned it on and looked to see if all the LED's were on and I guessed right after I saw that. Low is 1 LED on, medium is 2 LED's on and high is 3. The difference between medium and high is minimal.....
    Thx

    MB
    OH NO!.......THE DREADED MONO-LED-PER-STEP, LED MODE FUNCTION!.....Pardon me but I don't know what else to call it. Even worse is the fact that they are doing it on a lamp with a reflector set-up designed with cut outs. Without all LED's being lit at the same time ( to fill in the gaps ) there are bound to be aberrations in the beam pattern(s).

    This is like the worst feature you can get in a Chinese made lamp other than it not working at all. When switching modes, change in intensity is one thing, change in beam pattern is quite another!

    To be blunt: This type of mode function should be outlawed unless clearly stated in the product description by the seller. THIS IS NOT TRUE MULTI-EMITTER/ MULTI-MODE FUNCTION as would be commonly expected by anyone buying a bike light or torch.

    The really sad part about all of this is that once the news gets out many people will now not be willing to take a chance buying a multi-emitter Chinese made lamp or torch. The Chinese don't realize it yet but they just shot their entire industry in the foot. If I have any plans to buy other lamps this means I will have to contact the seller before hand to verify "True full-time multi-emitter function".
    Not only will this be difficult but most will probably have no idea what I'm even talking about.

    (* stock tip: shares in all U.S. made bike lights just went up. )

  25. #25
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    The worst thing about that type of modes is that the steps between levels isn't very useful. I don't know about the beam pattern being all that bad since I'd expect this to be a flooder.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    OH NO!.......THE DREADED MONO-LED-PER-STEP, LED MODE FUNCTION!.....Pardon me but I don't know what else to call it. Even worse is the fact that they are doing it on a lamp with a reflector set-up designed with cut outs. Without all LED's being lit at the same time ( to fill in the gaps ) there are bound to be aberrations in the beam pattern(s).

    This is like the worst feature you can get in a Chinese made lamp other than it not working at all. When switching modes, change in intensity is one thing, change in beam pattern is quite another!

    To be blunt: This type of mode function should be outlawed unless clearly stated in the product description by the seller. THIS IS NOT TRUE MULTI-EMITTER/ MULTI-MODE FUNCTION as would be commonly expected by anyone buying a bike light or torch.

    The really sad part about all of this is that once the news gets out many people will now not be willing to take a chance buying a multi-emitter Chinese made lamp or torch. The Chinese don't realize it yet but they just shot their entire industry in the foot. If I have any plans to buy other lamps this means I will have to contact the seller before hand to verify "True full-time multi-emitter function".
    Not only will this be difficult but most will probably have no idea what I'm even talking about.

    (* stock tip: shares in all U.S. made bike lights just went up. )
    Well I guess the brighter side to this is that there will be little if any PWM flickering for those who are sensitive to PWM, but still.....yuck!

  27. #27
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    If adding resisters to the first two LEDs is possible, that should help with the mode spacing. It'll reduce total output, but it shouldn't be very noticable. Some of that could probably be gained by increasing the current to the third LED. That doesn't help people that can't or won't mod their own lights though.

  28. #28
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    Mine should show up tomorrow. I'll try to post some pics and ride data. It's that time of year around here

  29. #29
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    Well mine has arrived. Happy to say, out of the box, it works! - which is good. I should be able to test tonight and provide some real world thoughts on this light.

    I purchased this version, which claimed to have a 6400mah battery: 3800 Lum 3x Cree XM-L XML T6 LED HeadLamp Headlight Bicycle Lamp Bike Car Light | eBay

    Though the battery is shrink-wrapped (as expected) so I really have no idea what is in there. First up is a pic of battery and charger, which is the 8.4v/1.0amp charger. Some people complain about the low amp charger but I don't find it a big deal. I've got my original magicshine 1.8amp charger and can use that if I'm in a hurry, or really go at the battery with my R/C charger if I'm in a real hurry.

    Next are some other pics of the headlamp... I am using the mount from my older niterider MiNewt, since it offers a cool removable feature. The adjustable mount attached to the headlamp is the perfect size to fit onto the niterider 'pod' which can then be removed from the helmet baseplate. Very convenient and keeps people from looking at you funny when riding without your light. This mount has also been compatible with my magicshine808, and I'd imagine is compatible with most headlamps of this size.

    The headlamp does weigh a little bit more than my 808, but I don't think I will notice too much. I have mounted the light pretty much centered on the helmet to try to keep it balanced, anyway. Those who mount their lights closer to the front of their helmet may notice the weight more.

    Last, I have some beam shots. (sorry for the bad clarity) Low/Med/Hi - It is as described in the item description, and mentioned in the above posts. The levels coordinate with how many lights are on. low = 1, med = 2, high = 3. Some people have mentioned how this sucks and the beam pattern will change throughout the various levels. I will let you know if it is discernable on the trail. Of note, LOW setting with 1 light on it is the single bottom led. MED setting with 2 lights on are the upper 2 leds. You can see what I am talking about in the pics. This programming may help the beam pattern stay somewhat balanced... we'll see.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-batt_charger.jpg  

    New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-helmet.jpg  

    New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-front.jpg  

    New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-rear.jpg  

    New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-side.jpg  

    New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-low.jpg  

    New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-med.jpg  

    New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-high.jpg  


  30. #30
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    How is the battery connector on your unit. Mine does not stay together and I have to tape it however, I use a GEO 6.0 on it anyhow.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad andy View Post
    ...Last, I have some beam shots. (sorry for the bad clarity) Low/Med/Hi - It is as described in the item description, and mentioned in the above posts. The levels coordinate with how many lights are on. low = 1, med = 2, high = 3. Some people have mentioned how this sucks and the beam pattern will change throughout the various levels. I will let you know if it is discernable on the trail. Of note, LOW setting with 1 light on it is the single bottom led. MED setting with 2 lights on are the upper 2 leds. You can see what I am talking about in the pics. This programming may help the beam pattern stay somewhat balanced... we'll see.
    Thanks bad andy for the photos...Last night I was speculating on which LED's would light for each of the modes. I am glad to see that at least they picked the right configuration of LEDs for each of the 3 modes. I agree with you, that should help eliminate beam pattern anomalies.

    Dang it, it does look big. I suppose mounting in the center will help keep it balanced. My mount is a little like yours but lower profile. I will likely have to mount it higher than I usual like. Depending on how I like it, if the lamp adds extra throw to to the helmet I might consider other ways to mount it.

    I second the request....what goes with the connectors? Are they working as intended?

  32. #32
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    Well first ride on the light was very successful. I don't know if the battery got a full charge before heading out, I was only able to have it on the charger for a few hours. Plus I don't know how much charge the battery had in it to begin with. I did use the light for about 1.5-2 hours in high last night and it was not hot at all, warm maybe. Ambient temp last night was in the 60s (F) so I guess that means it's fairly under driven? In contrast my 808 was it's usual warmth/semi-hot temp, much hotter in comparison to the 3x XML. I don't know if the switch light indicates battery charge at all, but it did appear sort of green-yellow when I finished the ride. I'll have to monitor that more closely during future rides.

    The beam pattern was great. I don't have much to compare against to determine if it is more spotty/floody but in comparison with the 808 it was just simply overall a bigger lighted area. If it is considered a spot, then it's a huge spot. I can say I had no trouble seeing anything. Especially on high. My buddy was bumming when I told him I paid $60, in comparison to his Niterider setup that cost at least 3x as much. I'll try to shoot some real world pics during future rides.

    I didn't notice the weight on my helmet too much. Though my helmet really fits well to my head. I can get a tight but comfortable fit, so that may help the stability overall.

    The size of the headlamp is a little bigger than my 808. Not tremendously though. I'll try to snap some side by side pics later.

    As for the plugs - I had no problem. They are definitely not as tight as my magicshine cables. These are straight plugs. my MS cables have an extra bump at the connecter to ensure a tighter fit. It felt to me that these cables, while working fine for now, primarily rely on the metal parts' connection vs. the rubber shielding to hold together. If so, future wear might cause this connection to become looser? We'll see. I may explore ways to get a tighter fit. I can be resourceful sometimes

    Overall very pleased so far.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bad andy View Post
    Some people complain about the low amp charger but I don't find it a big deal. I've got my original magicshine 1.8amp charger and can use that if I'm in a hurry, or really go at the battery with my R/C charger if I'm in a real hurry.
    Did you try it with the Magicshine charger?

    My SkyRay looks like it comes with the same charger, same shape and power output, and my SkyRay battery has a plug that is incompatible with my Magicshine charger.

    I was thinking the same thing as you. Instead of charging at 1A, I could charge at 1.8A with the Magicshine charger. It would also mean finding replacement batteries would be easy. I'm disappointed on both counts.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by leaftye View Post
    Did you try it with the Magicshine charger?

    My SkyRay looks like it comes with the same charger, same shape and power output, and my SkyRay battery has a plug that is incompatible with my Magicshine charger.

    I was thinking the same thing as you. Instead of charging at 1A, I could charge at 1.8A with the Magicshine charger. It would also mean finding replacement batteries would be easy. I'm disappointed on both counts.
    I did actually, but not for an extended period of time. I plugged the new headlamp into the ms charger and it fit fine, and the light in the charger lit up. I am presuming it would charge fine, but I haven't really tested.

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    Thanks for that. I'm sure it'd work.

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    Okay, got mine today. My first impression: For the money I can't complain. At first glance the beam pattern looks wider than I expected. It reminds me of the Bikeray IV a bit only it's brighter on high. Judging from the wall pattern it's not the thrower I was hoping for but should make a pretty good bar lamp. It does appear to have pretty good spill although there are some minor rings towards the outside of the beam pattern. I doubt they will be noticeable in actual use.

    As was already mentioned, the differences in mode output could be better. When in low mode mine has lots of artifacts in the beam pattern along with a slight greenish tint right in the center. Likely won't be too noticeable in actual use but I have yet to use it. When you switch to medium there is a major change and the lamp is very bright. Gone are the imperfections. Little if any change at all when switching to high which is a little disappointing.

    Other things I noticed: I don't think the back comes off as the rear of the light appears seamless. Those little silver things around the back are just dimples that are drilled into the surface of the rear ( for looks I suppose ). The wire exits out the back of the lamp and is quite long. Twice as long as other lamps. If you use this as a bar lamp you will definitely have to coil the wire up to get it out of the way. No wire extension is included and while the wire from the lamp is long it is not long enough to reach from the helmet to your back pack. The plugs are just as the others have said, they are a bit loose but they work. Comparing them to standard plugs the metal sleeve on the male plug is about 3-4mm shorter. For a snugger fit I might wrap some electrical tape around the plastic on the male plug. That should give it a tighter fit.

    After I give it a test spin tonight I'll likely have more to say about it. What I really what to know at this point is how far it will throw on the bars. The Bikeray IV barely got to 100ft. To impress me this lamp will have to have a usable reach to at least 150 ft.
    I'll let you know how it turns out.

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    triple XM-L Clone test run

    Well folks I almost hate to post this because a lot of people aren't going to like it. The thing is, "Catman don't like to lie". That said, I'm very impressed with this lamp. I did notice that while using the low setting that I can detect imperfections in the beam pattern. To be honest though I really did have to LOOK hard to see them. I doubt most people would even notice. Of course once you go up a level all of that goes away. The low mode looks to be about 450-500 lumen to my eyes and does carry quite a ways. The next two levels are very impressive considering how much the lamp cost. While there is not that much difference between mid and high you get a very nice beam pattern. Light goes almost everywhere. Nice wide spill close in and a decent amount of light in the distance. Almost perfect for the bars.

    On my short ride I stopped in a couple places and tried to compare the throw to the Gloworm X2 I was using on the helmet. Although i didn't pace out the distance, I think I can safely say that it throws beyond 100ft. I say that because I really couldn't notice too much difference between the two for how far they were throwing so I suppose that says a lot for the Tri-Clone. If I had to complain about something it would be the mode set-up. The Tri-Clone has no press/hold turn off function. To turn it off you have to cycle through the modes including the flash. While it does have a nice "clicky" button switch it is somewhat of a pain having to cycle through the extra modes.

    On the up side, I have to admit that I really liked the quality of the light coming out the front ( for the upper modes ) There was a particular "Crispness" to the light that I found pleasing. I'm not really sure why that is but it might have something to do with the fact that it is a "reflector based lamp". I found the tint and quality of the light very pleasing to the eye. On the way back I used both lamps and Wow...sure did make an awesome combo!

    Tomorrow I'll try to get a run time test done if I don't do another ride. ( tomorrow will be warmer.. )...

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    I'm very impressed with this lamp.
    Me too.
    I bought mine from
    3800Lm 3X CREE XM-L T6 LED LED Headlight Headlamp Bicycle Bike Light | eBay

    The low mode looks to be about 450-500 lumen to my eyes and does carry quite a ways. The next two levels are very impressive considering how much the lamp cost.
    I measured the battery current draw in my 3x XM-L light:
    1: 0,62A (5W)
    2: 1,67A (13W)
    3: 1,95A (19W)

    From this one can guestimate lumens to:
    600/1400/1800 (or so)


    While there is not that much difference between mid and high you get a very nice beam pattern. Light goes almost everywhere. Nice wide spill close in and a decent amount of light in the distance. Almost perfect for the bars.
    I have so far only done one ride with my 3x XM-L light.
    I mounted it on the bars next to my Magicshine MJ-856 and switched between the lights during the ride.
    I like the 3x XM-L light better!
    It is slightly brighter and have a more pronounced 'hot spot'.

    With a Magicshine MJ-808E as a helmetlight the midlevel on the 3x XM-L light, and the 50% level on the MJ-856, is more then enough light for my type of riding.

    For the price this is an awsome light. The complete light, incl shipping to Sweden, is cheaper then what a MS-battery sells for here in Sweden!



    But I will only use this light for MTB-riding.
    For road riding, and commuting, I will use my, modified, Philips light
    Philips LED bike light - Page 3

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by HakanC View Post

    ....I measured the battery current draw in my 3x XM-L light:
    1: 0,62A (5W)
    2: 1,67A (13W)
    3: 1,95A (19W)

    From this one can guestimate lumens to:
    600/1400/1800 (or so)

    I have so far only done one ride with my 3x XM-L light.
    I mounted it on the bars next to my Magicshine MJ-856 and switched between the lights during the ride.
    I like the 3x XM-L light better!
    It is slightly brighter and have a more pronounced 'hot spot'.

    With a Magicshine MJ-808E as a helmetlight the midlevel on the 3x XM-L light, and the 50% level on the MJ-856, is more then enough light for my type of riding.

    For the price this is an awsome light. The complete light, incl shipping to Sweden, is cheaper then what a MS-battery sells for here in Sweden!....
    I'll be doing doing a current measurement as well. I don't know if I would go as far to say it outputs 1800 lumen but it is bright and compares very well to the duel emitter Gloworm X2. It would be nice if one of the vendors took this lamp and created a "Deluxe" version ( one half amp more current for the high, change the strobe to a slower flash and put it in a sub menu and then include a push/hold off function with memory ) With those added features ( which really are just basic stuff ) I'd pay another $30 to $40.

    As your measurements show there is not too much difference in the current draw between mid level and high. I think if we can get two hours of run time out of the supplied battery on high we've gotten more than our money's worth.

    In the mean time this lamp is a very good value as long as it holds up. For the novice MTB'er looking for an inexpensive bar lamp with a decent output this could be your ticket to ride. Just keep in mind it is a basic "no frills" lamp. Get a MS 808E or Xeccon S-12 for the helmet ( or another spot oriented clone ) and you will have a combo set-up that has the amount of light that others spent 3X as much for.
    Last edited by Cat-man-do; 10-15-2012 at 12:55 PM.

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    edit: found answer regarding mounting

  41. #41
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    Curent output for Tri-Clone

    I tested mine with the supplied battery freshly charged. Here's what I got:

    Low: ....... 0.62 A

    Medium:...2.08 A

    High: .......2.30 A
    Just keep in mind that this doesn't account for voltage sag after the battery has run a while. All things considered, this ain't bad. I'm amazed that the low level is only 0.62A
    I say that because it's pretty bright for only drawing that much current. Believe me if the low output was too low I would of let you know. At that level I'm thinking it might run 12 hrs on low if this is a standard 4400mAh battery. I haven't done a run time test yet on high but my guess is that it should run maybe 2.5hr. On medium maybe 2.75hr. If you own a four cell set-up with premium Panasonic 3100mAh cells maybe over 3hrs.

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    If you own a four cell set-up with premium Panasonic 3100mAh cells maybe over 3hrs.
    Cat-man-do, could I easily make myself such a four cell set-up? Anything else than soldering the cells together?

    Thanks

    Johnnydrz

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    Getting right at 3hrs on high on my 6.0 GEO battery.

    Doesn't really look like 1800 lumens on high. More like 1200 and medium like 900, maybe a bit more.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnnydrz View Post
    Cat-man-do, could I easily make myself such a four cell set-up? Anything else than soldering the cells together?

    Thanks

    Johnnydrz
    If I were going to make my own pack I'd consider the 18650 holders from BatterySpace. These include a PCB ( on each set ) for protection. I'd use two of these two cell holders, connect them in parallel and use the Panasonic 3400 unprotected cells. They do make a 4-cell version but I like a square pack rather than a long flat pack.

    Option two: Yes, you could solder up your own. Big plus if you know how to do that. Panasonic cells with tabs are available. Even better if you know how to wire up your own *PCB. *BatterySpace sells them as well I believe.

    You might want to check out the DIY forum for more info on how to build your own battery pack.

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    Everyone talks about a 6.0 GEO battery. Im late to the show of lighting and batteries, and not sure if I can wrap my head around all the ins and outs of them.... however generally, people talk about their 6.0 GEO batteries...

    anyhow, if the supplied 4400mA battery that is supplied is kinda 'iffy', and Im hesitant to try to fabricate my own, is there a manufactured alternative thats known as a quality, value battery? (like it seems the magicshine series are to lights?)

  46. #46
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    Thanks Cat-man-do, I'll go with the first option, easier to charge individual cells.

    Cheers,

    Johnnydrz

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    We're having more Indian Summer here in the Bay Area. It was around 80 degrees last night on our ride. I decided to crank this up on a 20 minute climb, no wind ,etc. It didn't get hot. Yeah, it did get warm but never got hot which leads me to believe it's being driven properly and dissipates heat fairly well.

    Just an FYI for you desert nite riders.

    So far no issues w/ this 50 dollar light.

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    I can also chime in on temp. So far on a number of rides in upper 50s/low 60s (F) in the northeast and the light has yet to get hot. Not even really warm. Seems like a very solid performing light so far.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by milnerpt View Post
    Everyone talks about a 6.0 GEO battery. Im late to the show of lighting and batteries, and not sure if I can wrap my head around all the ins and outs of them.... however generally, people talk about their 6.0 GEO batteries...

    anyhow, if the supplied 4400mA battery that is supplied is kinda 'iffy', and Im hesitant to try to fabricate my own, is there a manufactured alternative thats known as a quality, value battery? (like it seems the magicshine series are to lights?)
    Supposedly some battery packs have good cells in them.

    I'm thinking I'd rather buy a 4 cell PCB from batteryspace and put together a battery pack with 26650 cells. The downside is having to buy half a dozen PCB's to meet the minimum order requirement.

  50. #50
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    Hey Milnerpt

    The batteries we speak of, GEO are replacement batteries for a recall from early Magicshine lights sold by GEOMANGEAR. GEO is out of business but he orchestrated a recall of a potentially dangerous battery.

    GEO offered a replacement 4.4ah battery which was taking a year to get so he offered a better 6.0ah battery for $25 which was a real good deal as this battery is a good quality battery. The retail on this battery was 85 and that's probably what you would pay for a good quality real 6.0ah battery.

    At this point, if I were you, I would simply use the supplied battery and maybe buy another on Ebay, $18 if you need any more run time. I would not go out and pay 85 for a battery for a cheap light system though this light seems to work real well.

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