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  1. #1
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    New clone 3 x XML T-6 49.88 shipped

    Ok, here is the link. I took the plunge for this price. I have a newer barley used GEO 6.0 battery that I will use w/ this and just keep the one w/ the unit as a back up.

    3X CREE XM-L T6 LED 3800Lm LED Headlight Headlamp Bicycle Bike Light | eBay

    I'll post on this thread when I get it and give some details, what I think actual lumens are, etc. Sorry, don't have a way to actually test it but I do have a Dinotte XML-3 so I can measure off that.

    Hope it actually works and hope I actually get it. Says delivery Sept 29th - Oct 5th which means Oct 5th.

    Oh yeah, only has a 1 month warranty. I'll just have to make sure I use it on low when climbing.

    More to follow.

    MB

  2. #2
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    Yep, hard not to lay money down when the prices are that low.
    The 4400mAh battery is too small to power a 3 x XM-L set up UNLESS the lamp is very under-driven. Even your Geoman 6.0 battery would have a hard time powering a lamp like this if the emitters are fully driven. The only reason I say that is because someone said their GM 6.0 battery had a hard time driving the Gemini Olympia. The Gemini Olympia though is a very bright lamp and likely pulling a good amount of power.

    Let us know how it works out. Heck, even if it only looks like 1500 lumen you still got your monies worth. Let us know how it compares to the DiNotte XML 3.

    There's going to be a lot of bike light vendors reaching for the Xanax when they start seeing these roll out.

  3. #3
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    I can't build something that cheap and it won't look anywhere near as nice.

  4. #4
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    Hey Cat

    I'm not the most knowledgeable about the currents, etc but the listing says it's running at 1A. I'll assume that is somewhat under driven and probably putting out a realistic 1000 lumens, about 300-350 per LED.

    If that's the case, it might actually work fairly well and not overheat. And yeah, my first thought was the battery would not drive it.

    We'll see.

    MB

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by mb323323 View Post
    Hey Cat

    I'm not the most knowledgeable about the currents, etc but the listing says it's running at 1A. I'll assume that is somewhat under driven and probably putting out a realistic 1000 lumens, about 300-350 per LED.

    If that's the case, it might actually work fairly well and not overheat. And yeah, my first thought was the battery would not drive it.

    We'll see.

    MB
    Actually the 1-amp listing is for the charger. What the light head is doing is anyone's guess. You should be able to tell a lot just from the run time. The longer the run time on high the less the current draw is ( generally speaking ). For fully driven emitters with the battery that is being sold with the lamp I would think run time to be about 1 hr and 15 minutes on high. If the run time ends up being longer than the output is less than optimal. Personally I feel if it gets 1.5hr on high ( with supplied battery ) I would be thrilled. That would indicate the lamp is drawing a decent amount of juice and the resultant lumen output should be very bright.

  6. #6
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    Six and half hours to charge the battery... oh that's going to be fun. Thank god I own several magicshine chargers at 1.8A output. Anyway the XM-Ls are capable of using 10W each and the battery is 32.5W (3.7 nominal voltage @ 2.2A per cell times four cells) so yeah, full power you're looking at an hour at high and then you wanna change the battery pack.
    I don't post to generate business for myself or make like I'm better than sliced bread

  7. #7
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    The producer advertises this light with 20 watt. Its a triple T6, its small, probably lightweight too and its rock bottom CHEAP, 40 $.

    A spare 6cell battery will be 17$, making it 3 sets with 4cell and 6cell battery each, incl. shipping for around 200$.
    goldrunhui.en.alibaba.com/product/634983612-213894431/GoldRunhui_RH_B0041_20W_3_XML_3T6_LED_2000LM_18650 _Aluminum_Bicycle_Light.h
    The XML U2 has been measured in an ďUlbricht sphereĒ at 60-degree temperature (between 25 and 80degree is an increasing drop of efficiency, reaching 15% at 3A) and at 6,65 Watt at around 700lm and 105lm/w.
    Thatís a total current draw of 2,2AH at 3x 6,65w= 20w.

    Subtract:
    5-8% for the T6/U2 efficiency difference,
    20% -30% efficiency of circuits and optics.
    So 700lm -30/40% = 500lm - 400lumen x3= 1200 Ė 1500lm OFT,
    a bit meagre, but very good lumen/watt ratio at 2,2Ah.
    Therefore, itís a bit better than a 4up XPG, but cheaper and more efficient.
    Some sites advertise it correctly with 1200lm.
    cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1740
    Lumen/watt is around 100lm/w at lower current,
    Lumen/$ is around 30 per greenback.

    The question is how the beam looks like.
    The SMO reflector suggest throw, but 44,5 mm diameter is rather small,
    but depth of 56mm could be sufficient. Weight is around 100-150gramm,
    I guessed.

    I really look forward to some beam shots soon here.

    The Fluxient 3x U2 is certainly better,
    But if the throw of the RH B004 is good and the weight light,
    2 of them with a spare battery will cost the same as 1 Fluxient.

  8. #8
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    photos

    first photo 1xXML (with modded reflector, more flow),
    second, the cheap 3xXML
    third, the Niteye B20 (2xXML U2)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-1-xml.jpg  

    New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-3-x-xml.jpg  

    New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-niteye-b20-2xxml-u2.jpg  


  9. #9
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    I decided to try this thing out too. A variant however with a 6400mah battery pack... 3800 Lum 3x Cree XM-L XML T6 LED HeadLamp Headlight Bicycle Lamp Bike Car Light | eBay

    Hopefully it works when it shows up

  10. #10
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    Bad A. 10 bucks more but you get a better battery if you can actually believe them.

    Rein, I'm actually hoping the actual lumens is around 1200 which will tell me that it's not over driven and will actually work. The Dinotte XML-3 that I have is 1034 tested lumens and is more than enough light for the bars and only gets warm-almost hot if you leave it on high for a while w/o air flow. As soon as you move, the unit never runs more than just warm on the high setting.

    Clone should be here in a week or so and I'll post picts, etc.

    Just can't beat the price unless it's fails quick as it only has a 1 MONTH warranty. Time will tell all.

    MB

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mb323323 View Post
    Bad A. 10 bucks more but you get a better battery if you can actually believe them.
    Yup, I know. It's gotta be true... it's just gotta! It's printed in plain black & white, and it's on the internet! It's official

    We'll see when it shows. If the battery is the 4400mah, then so be it.

  12. #12
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    Keep us updated... Im looking at this clone, and the other standard clone people seem to say is decent....

    Buy CREE XML XM-L T6 LED Bike Bicycle Light HeadLight HeadLamp 1200LM 9W for Wholesale - Free Shipping

    I splurged at Action LED for a more quality light on the helmet, and want to have something a little less $ on the bars..... Trying to wrap my head around the conversations going on in the forum makes my head spin, but reviews and abbreviated threads like this are most helpful figuring out run times, functionality, and what wont crap out on the first few rides.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by yiannakas View Post
    first photo 1xXML (with modded reflector, more flow),
    second, the cheap 3xXML
    third, the Niteye B20 (2xXML U2)
    Nice comparison shots. The 3xml and the 2xml look about the same. I realize the Niteye B20 is better quality and has more features, but at over 3 times the cost. The extra features aren't things that I particularly need, so I'd happily go with the 3xml (better yet, 2of them).

  14. #14
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    The clone arrived today.

    I'm not sure how to upload pictures to the site but when I figure it out, I'll upload.

    The light head looks pretty well built. Aluminum probably. The connectors do work w/ MS and GOE batteries. The connectors are a bit different but they work. The battery supplied is the typical cheap battery most likely and the connectors supplied are lame, they don't even stay connected. However, the GEO connector is much better and secures really well. I'll be using the GEO battery. You'll have to tape the battery supplied connectors together or they will just come apart.

    Typical O ring mounting.

    Now for the light. It's pretty bright. It's a touch brighter than the Dinotte XML-3 so which I am happy about as that tells me it's somewhat under driven. I would guess this to be 1200 real lumens. I have to reserve judgement on heat dissipation as I have not tested that and it was over 100 here today and still mid 80's. SF Bay Area Indian Summer!! The unit got warm/hot after only 10 seconds. Again, I hesitate to say anything regarding this until it cools down some. The beam is somewhat spot but has good peripheral light. Not as good as the Dinotte but they are not apples to apples.

    Overall, I'm impressed w/ the amount of light. I'm not impressed w/ the lame connectors. Time will tell if it's durable.

    1 MONTH warranty!

    Overall, way worth a $50 investment. However, you have to be willing to eat it if it blows after a month.

    I would never ride w/ it as an only light alone.

    Will report back w/ picts and beam shots when I figure it all out.

    MB

    Edit: Forgot, the light head is 4.65 oz. In comparison, the XML-3 Dinotte is 3.55 oz. Overall size is larger than the Dinotte.
    Last edited by mb323323; 10-01-2012 at 09:15 PM.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by mb323323 View Post
    The clone arrived today.

    I'm not sure how to upload pictures to the site but when I figure it out, I'll upload.

    The light head looks pretty well built. Aluminum probably. The connectors do work w/ MS and GOE batteries. The connectors are a bit different but they work. The battery supplied is the typical cheap battery most likely and the connectors supplied are lame, they don't even stay connected. However, the GEO connector is much better and secures really well. I'll be using the GEO battery. You'll have to tape the battery supplied connectors together or they will just come apart.

    Typical O ring mounting.

    Now for the light. It's pretty bright. It's a touch brighter than the Dinotte XML-3 so which I am happy about as that tells me it's somewhat under driven. I would guess this to be 1200 real lumens. I have to reserve judgement on heat dissipation as I have not tested that and it was over 100 here today and still mid 80's. SF Bay Area Indian Summer!! The unit got warm/hot after only 10 seconds. Again, I hesitate to say anything regarding this until it cools down some. The beam is somewhat spot but has good peripheral light. Not as good as the Dinotte but they are not apples to apples.

    Overall, I'm impressed w/ the amount of light. I'm not impressed w/ the lame connectors. Time will tell if it's durable.

    1 MONTH warranty!

    Overall, way worth a $50 investment. However, you have to be willing to eat it if it blows after a month.

    I would never ride w/ it as an only light alone.

    Will report back w/ picts and beam shots when I figure it all out.

    MB

    Edit: Forgot, the light head is 4.65 oz. In comparison, the XML-3 Dinotte is 3.55 oz. Overall size is larger than the Dinotte.
    MB, now you received the light, I'm curious as to what is those pokie dots around the light switch? TIA

  16. #16
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    thanks for the tips guys.
    roccowt.
    rocnbikemeld

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by mb323323 View Post
    The clone arrived today.

    I'm not sure how to upload pictures to the site but when I figure it out, I'll upload.

    The light head looks pretty well built. Aluminum probably. The connectors do work w/ MS and GOE batteries. The connectors are a bit different but they work. The battery supplied is the typical cheap battery most likely and the connectors supplied are lame, they don't even stay connected. However, the GEO connector is much better and secures really well. I'll be using the GEO battery. You'll have to tape the battery supplied connectors together or they will just come apart.

    Typical O ring mounting.

    Now for the light. It's pretty bright. It's a touch brighter than the Dinotte XML-3 so which I am happy about as that tells me it's somewhat under driven. I would guess this to be 1200 real lumens. I have to reserve judgement on heat dissipation as I have not tested that and it was over 100 here today and still mid 80's. SF Bay Area Indian Summer!! The unit got warm/hot after only 10 seconds. Again, I hesitate to say anything regarding this until it cools down some. The beam is somewhat spot but has good peripheral light. Not as good as the Dinotte but they are not apples to apples.

    Overall, I'm impressed w/ the amount of light. I'm not impressed w/ the lame connectors. Time will tell if it's durable.

    1 MONTH warranty!

    Overall, way worth a $50 investment. However, you have to be willing to eat it if it blows after a month.

    I would never ride w/ it as an only light alone.

    Will report back w/ picts and beam shots when I figure it all out.

    MB

    Edit: Forgot, the light head is 4.65 oz. In comparison, the XML-3 Dinotte is 3.55 oz. Overall size is larger than the Dinotte.
    MB, I need some clarification. First you said the lamp was brighter than your DiNotte XML3. Then you said the DiNotte was better. Was that just because the DiNotte is a better build / over-all system or is there something else about the beam pattern of the DiNotte that made it better as well?

    The fact that there is some problems with the connectors goes a long way to explain why they are selling them at the low price. For the record I pulled the trigger on one of these myself because I figured it was worth the money even if the battery was crap. Mine should come in two weeks.

    I'm crossing my fingers in hope that this lamp might be a real thrower and not be too heavy on the helmet. I figure if I end up not liking it I might be able to find someone at work who might want to buy it.

  18. #18
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    Hey Cat

    Yeah, too heavy for the helmet for me. I think most would think it's too heavy as well. Haven't used it on the trail yet. Will Wed eve so I'll get back to you. It does throw pretty well, better than the Dinotte XML-3 but the overall beam pattern is better on the XML-3 as it lights up everything in front of you for about 70 feet pretty much w/ a very even amount of light. The clone has the typical hot spot and darker around the edges. It's a steal though for 50 bucks. Of course the Dinotte is better quality. I'll be interested to see what you think as you own more lights than I do and can make a better assessment.

    Colleen, those dumb looking things seem to be rivets. They must hold something. I thought they would be screws so I could take it apart "when" it fails. Or should I say "if" it fails. If you want, you can borrow and put on your sphere to test lumens.

    MB

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by mb323323 View Post
    Hey Cat

    Yeah, too heavy for the helmet for me. I think most would think it's too heavy as well. Haven't used it on the trail yet. Will Wed eve so I'll get back to you. It does throw pretty well, better than the Dinotte XML-3 but the overall beam pattern is better on the XML-3 as it lights up everything in front of you for about 70 feet pretty much w/ a very even amount of light. The clone has the typical hot spot and darker around the edges. It's a steal though for 50 bucks. Of course the Dinotte is better quality. I'll be interested to see what you think as you own more lights than I do and can make a better assessment.

    Colleen, those dumb looking things seem to be rivets. They must hold something. I thought they would be screws so I could take it apart "when" it fails. Or should I say "if" it fails. If you want, you can borrow and put on your sphere to test lumens.

    MB
    If it ends up not being able to beat out the Xeccon S-12 for throw I will likely try to mod it be more useful as a bar light. Perhaps a separate diffusion lens over one of the LED's might give it a bit more close in spill.

    From what you've said I think it's about 17gms heavier than the S-12. That would make it noticeable, certainly more weight than most would like. However I use the S-12 sometimes with a two cell on the helmet. So far I've not had major complications with that set-up. I figure as long as this clone lamp doesn't cause helmet sag it might just work. We'll see.

  20. #20
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    I saw this today. Cree XM-L T6 LED Bike Light
    It's local so I think I will check it out at somepoint. The lumens doesn't quite add up, but looks interesting.

  21. #21
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    If those are indeed rivots in the back housing, I wonder how they will hold up in term of keeping water out of the housing? Interesting way of holding the unit together unless they are more for cosmetic reasoning.

    I would be interested in a beam comparison of this light with those in the same catagory. Lights in the 1200 lumens range such as Gloworm, clone 872 or even the quad XP-G. A quick test in sphere will determine a relative OTF lumens and a outdoor beamshot will be nice.

  22. #22
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    Ok, rode w/ this on the trail Wed eve. Fire roads and single track.

    When I first tested this in my yard, I thought it might be a little brighter than a Dinotte XML-3. On the trail, it has a hot spot but the peripheral lighting around the hot spot is not as bright as the XML-3 and has those rings around the hot spot.

    Cat, the throw is average. The throw on my clone T-6 is better.

    I forgot to mention this starts on low setting, then medium and high. The difference between medium and high is minimal.

    On the trail I noticed something odd when I turned it on and scrolled through the settings. The beam pattern seemed to change. I then turned it on and looked to see if all the LED's were on and I guessed right after I saw that. Low is 1 LED on, medium is 2 LED's on and high is 3. The difference between medium and high is minimal.

    I works good though for a 50 dollar light. Especially if you have a GEO battery hanging around.

    It never got hot. I even turned it on high up a 20 minute climb and it only got warm. The 6.0 GEO battery lasted approx 3 hours before it turned red. All good signs that this is not over driven.

    Ok, since I'm lame at picts, etc how about I ask Cat to finish the review when his arrives and does beam shots, etc.

    For 50 bucks, I'd buy one but not as an only light.

    Thx

    MB

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by colleen c View Post
    If those are indeed rivots in the back housing, I wonder how they will hold up in term of keeping water out of the housing? Interesting way of holding the unit together unless they are more for cosmetic reasoning.
    Liquid electrical tape like Plastic Dip might be a good idea. It's easy to take off. My only concern would be that it might provide some thermal insulation and cause the light to overheat.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by mb323323 View Post
    ...On the trail I noticed something odd when I turned it on and scrolled through the settings. The beam pattern seemed to change. I then turned it on and looked to see if all the LED's were on and I guessed right after I saw that. Low is 1 LED on, medium is 2 LED's on and high is 3. The difference between medium and high is minimal.....
    Thx

    MB
    OH NO!.......THE DREADED MONO-LED-PER-STEP, LED MODE FUNCTION!.....Pardon me but I don't know what else to call it. Even worse is the fact that they are doing it on a lamp with a reflector set-up designed with cut outs. Without all LED's being lit at the same time ( to fill in the gaps ) there are bound to be aberrations in the beam pattern(s).

    This is like the worst feature you can get in a Chinese made lamp other than it not working at all. When switching modes, change in intensity is one thing, change in beam pattern is quite another!

    To be blunt: This type of mode function should be outlawed unless clearly stated in the product description by the seller. THIS IS NOT TRUE MULTI-EMITTER/ MULTI-MODE FUNCTION as would be commonly expected by anyone buying a bike light or torch.

    The really sad part about all of this is that once the news gets out many people will now not be willing to take a chance buying a multi-emitter Chinese made lamp or torch. The Chinese don't realize it yet but they just shot their entire industry in the foot. If I have any plans to buy other lamps this means I will have to contact the seller before hand to verify "True full-time multi-emitter function".
    Not only will this be difficult but most will probably have no idea what I'm even talking about.

    (* stock tip: shares in all U.S. made bike lights just went up. )

  25. #25
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    The worst thing about that type of modes is that the steps between levels isn't very useful. I don't know about the beam pattern being all that bad since I'd expect this to be a flooder.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    OH NO!.......THE DREADED MONO-LED-PER-STEP, LED MODE FUNCTION!.....Pardon me but I don't know what else to call it. Even worse is the fact that they are doing it on a lamp with a reflector set-up designed with cut outs. Without all LED's being lit at the same time ( to fill in the gaps ) there are bound to be aberrations in the beam pattern(s).

    This is like the worst feature you can get in a Chinese made lamp other than it not working at all. When switching modes, change in intensity is one thing, change in beam pattern is quite another!

    To be blunt: This type of mode function should be outlawed unless clearly stated in the product description by the seller. THIS IS NOT TRUE MULTI-EMITTER/ MULTI-MODE FUNCTION as would be commonly expected by anyone buying a bike light or torch.

    The really sad part about all of this is that once the news gets out many people will now not be willing to take a chance buying a multi-emitter Chinese made lamp or torch. The Chinese don't realize it yet but they just shot their entire industry in the foot. If I have any plans to buy other lamps this means I will have to contact the seller before hand to verify "True full-time multi-emitter function".
    Not only will this be difficult but most will probably have no idea what I'm even talking about.

    (* stock tip: shares in all U.S. made bike lights just went up. )
    Well I guess the brighter side to this is that there will be little if any PWM flickering for those who are sensitive to PWM, but still.....yuck!

  27. #27
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    If adding resisters to the first two LEDs is possible, that should help with the mode spacing. It'll reduce total output, but it shouldn't be very noticable. Some of that could probably be gained by increasing the current to the third LED. That doesn't help people that can't or won't mod their own lights though.

  28. #28
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    Mine should show up tomorrow. I'll try to post some pics and ride data. It's that time of year around here

  29. #29
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    Well mine has arrived. Happy to say, out of the box, it works! - which is good. I should be able to test tonight and provide some real world thoughts on this light.

    I purchased this version, which claimed to have a 6400mah battery: 3800 Lum 3x Cree XM-L XML T6 LED HeadLamp Headlight Bicycle Lamp Bike Car Light | eBay

    Though the battery is shrink-wrapped (as expected) so I really have no idea what is in there. First up is a pic of battery and charger, which is the 8.4v/1.0amp charger. Some people complain about the low amp charger but I don't find it a big deal. I've got my original magicshine 1.8amp charger and can use that if I'm in a hurry, or really go at the battery with my R/C charger if I'm in a real hurry.

    Next are some other pics of the headlamp... I am using the mount from my older niterider MiNewt, since it offers a cool removable feature. The adjustable mount attached to the headlamp is the perfect size to fit onto the niterider 'pod' which can then be removed from the helmet baseplate. Very convenient and keeps people from looking at you funny when riding without your light. This mount has also been compatible with my magicshine808, and I'd imagine is compatible with most headlamps of this size.

    The headlamp does weigh a little bit more than my 808, but I don't think I will notice too much. I have mounted the light pretty much centered on the helmet to try to keep it balanced, anyway. Those who mount their lights closer to the front of their helmet may notice the weight more.

    Last, I have some beam shots. (sorry for the bad clarity) Low/Med/Hi - It is as described in the item description, and mentioned in the above posts. The levels coordinate with how many lights are on. low = 1, med = 2, high = 3. Some people have mentioned how this sucks and the beam pattern will change throughout the various levels. I will let you know if it is discernable on the trail. Of note, LOW setting with 1 light on it is the single bottom led. MED setting with 2 lights on are the upper 2 leds. You can see what I am talking about in the pics. This programming may help the beam pattern stay somewhat balanced... we'll see.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-batt_charger.jpg  

    New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-helmet.jpg  

    New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-front.jpg  

    New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-rear.jpg  

    New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-side.jpg  

    New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-low.jpg  

    New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-med.jpg  

    New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-high.jpg  


  30. #30
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    How is the battery connector on your unit. Mine does not stay together and I have to tape it however, I use a GEO 6.0 on it anyhow.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad andy View Post
    ...Last, I have some beam shots. (sorry for the bad clarity) Low/Med/Hi - It is as described in the item description, and mentioned in the above posts. The levels coordinate with how many lights are on. low = 1, med = 2, high = 3. Some people have mentioned how this sucks and the beam pattern will change throughout the various levels. I will let you know if it is discernable on the trail. Of note, LOW setting with 1 light on it is the single bottom led. MED setting with 2 lights on are the upper 2 leds. You can see what I am talking about in the pics. This programming may help the beam pattern stay somewhat balanced... we'll see.
    Thanks bad andy for the photos...Last night I was speculating on which LED's would light for each of the modes. I am glad to see that at least they picked the right configuration of LEDs for each of the 3 modes. I agree with you, that should help eliminate beam pattern anomalies.

    Dang it, it does look big. I suppose mounting in the center will help keep it balanced. My mount is a little like yours but lower profile. I will likely have to mount it higher than I usual like. Depending on how I like it, if the lamp adds extra throw to to the helmet I might consider other ways to mount it.

    I second the request....what goes with the connectors? Are they working as intended?

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    Well first ride on the light was very successful. I don't know if the battery got a full charge before heading out, I was only able to have it on the charger for a few hours. Plus I don't know how much charge the battery had in it to begin with. I did use the light for about 1.5-2 hours in high last night and it was not hot at all, warm maybe. Ambient temp last night was in the 60s (F) so I guess that means it's fairly under driven? In contrast my 808 was it's usual warmth/semi-hot temp, much hotter in comparison to the 3x XML. I don't know if the switch light indicates battery charge at all, but it did appear sort of green-yellow when I finished the ride. I'll have to monitor that more closely during future rides.

    The beam pattern was great. I don't have much to compare against to determine if it is more spotty/floody but in comparison with the 808 it was just simply overall a bigger lighted area. If it is considered a spot, then it's a huge spot. I can say I had no trouble seeing anything. Especially on high. My buddy was bumming when I told him I paid $60, in comparison to his Niterider setup that cost at least 3x as much. I'll try to shoot some real world pics during future rides.

    I didn't notice the weight on my helmet too much. Though my helmet really fits well to my head. I can get a tight but comfortable fit, so that may help the stability overall.

    The size of the headlamp is a little bigger than my 808. Not tremendously though. I'll try to snap some side by side pics later.

    As for the plugs - I had no problem. They are definitely not as tight as my magicshine cables. These are straight plugs. my MS cables have an extra bump at the connecter to ensure a tighter fit. It felt to me that these cables, while working fine for now, primarily rely on the metal parts' connection vs. the rubber shielding to hold together. If so, future wear might cause this connection to become looser? We'll see. I may explore ways to get a tighter fit. I can be resourceful sometimes

    Overall very pleased so far.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bad andy View Post
    Some people complain about the low amp charger but I don't find it a big deal. I've got my original magicshine 1.8amp charger and can use that if I'm in a hurry, or really go at the battery with my R/C charger if I'm in a real hurry.
    Did you try it with the Magicshine charger?

    My SkyRay looks like it comes with the same charger, same shape and power output, and my SkyRay battery has a plug that is incompatible with my Magicshine charger.

    I was thinking the same thing as you. Instead of charging at 1A, I could charge at 1.8A with the Magicshine charger. It would also mean finding replacement batteries would be easy. I'm disappointed on both counts.

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    Quote Originally Posted by leaftye View Post
    Did you try it with the Magicshine charger?

    My SkyRay looks like it comes with the same charger, same shape and power output, and my SkyRay battery has a plug that is incompatible with my Magicshine charger.

    I was thinking the same thing as you. Instead of charging at 1A, I could charge at 1.8A with the Magicshine charger. It would also mean finding replacement batteries would be easy. I'm disappointed on both counts.
    I did actually, but not for an extended period of time. I plugged the new headlamp into the ms charger and it fit fine, and the light in the charger lit up. I am presuming it would charge fine, but I haven't really tested.

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    Thanks for that. I'm sure it'd work.

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    Okay, got mine today. My first impression: For the money I can't complain. At first glance the beam pattern looks wider than I expected. It reminds me of the Bikeray IV a bit only it's brighter on high. Judging from the wall pattern it's not the thrower I was hoping for but should make a pretty good bar lamp. It does appear to have pretty good spill although there are some minor rings towards the outside of the beam pattern. I doubt they will be noticeable in actual use.

    As was already mentioned, the differences in mode output could be better. When in low mode mine has lots of artifacts in the beam pattern along with a slight greenish tint right in the center. Likely won't be too noticeable in actual use but I have yet to use it. When you switch to medium there is a major change and the lamp is very bright. Gone are the imperfections. Little if any change at all when switching to high which is a little disappointing.

    Other things I noticed: I don't think the back comes off as the rear of the light appears seamless. Those little silver things around the back are just dimples that are drilled into the surface of the rear ( for looks I suppose ). The wire exits out the back of the lamp and is quite long. Twice as long as other lamps. If you use this as a bar lamp you will definitely have to coil the wire up to get it out of the way. No wire extension is included and while the wire from the lamp is long it is not long enough to reach from the helmet to your back pack. The plugs are just as the others have said, they are a bit loose but they work. Comparing them to standard plugs the metal sleeve on the male plug is about 3-4mm shorter. For a snugger fit I might wrap some electrical tape around the plastic on the male plug. That should give it a tighter fit.

    After I give it a test spin tonight I'll likely have more to say about it. What I really what to know at this point is how far it will throw on the bars. The Bikeray IV barely got to 100ft. To impress me this lamp will have to have a usable reach to at least 150 ft.
    I'll let you know how it turns out.

  37. #37
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    triple XM-L Clone test run

    Well folks I almost hate to post this because a lot of people aren't going to like it. The thing is, "Catman don't like to lie". That said, I'm very impressed with this lamp. I did notice that while using the low setting that I can detect imperfections in the beam pattern. To be honest though I really did have to LOOK hard to see them. I doubt most people would even notice. Of course once you go up a level all of that goes away. The low mode looks to be about 450-500 lumen to my eyes and does carry quite a ways. The next two levels are very impressive considering how much the lamp cost. While there is not that much difference between mid and high you get a very nice beam pattern. Light goes almost everywhere. Nice wide spill close in and a decent amount of light in the distance. Almost perfect for the bars.

    On my short ride I stopped in a couple places and tried to compare the throw to the Gloworm X2 I was using on the helmet. Although i didn't pace out the distance, I think I can safely say that it throws beyond 100ft. I say that because I really couldn't notice too much difference between the two for how far they were throwing so I suppose that says a lot for the Tri-Clone. If I had to complain about something it would be the mode set-up. The Tri-Clone has no press/hold turn off function. To turn it off you have to cycle through the modes including the flash. While it does have a nice "clicky" button switch it is somewhat of a pain having to cycle through the extra modes.

    On the up side, I have to admit that I really liked the quality of the light coming out the front ( for the upper modes ) There was a particular "Crispness" to the light that I found pleasing. I'm not really sure why that is but it might have something to do with the fact that it is a "reflector based lamp". I found the tint and quality of the light very pleasing to the eye. On the way back I used both lamps and Wow...sure did make an awesome combo!

    Tomorrow I'll try to get a run time test done if I don't do another ride. ( tomorrow will be warmer.. )...

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    I'm very impressed with this lamp.
    Me too.
    I bought mine from
    3800Lm 3X CREE XM-L T6 LED LED Headlight Headlamp Bicycle Bike Light | eBay

    The low mode looks to be about 450-500 lumen to my eyes and does carry quite a ways. The next two levels are very impressive considering how much the lamp cost.
    I measured the battery current draw in my 3x XM-L light:
    1: 0,62A (5W)
    2: 1,67A (13W)
    3: 1,95A (19W)

    From this one can guestimate lumens to:
    600/1400/1800 (or so)


    While there is not that much difference between mid and high you get a very nice beam pattern. Light goes almost everywhere. Nice wide spill close in and a decent amount of light in the distance. Almost perfect for the bars.
    I have so far only done one ride with my 3x XM-L light.
    I mounted it on the bars next to my Magicshine MJ-856 and switched between the lights during the ride.
    I like the 3x XM-L light better!
    It is slightly brighter and have a more pronounced 'hot spot'.

    With a Magicshine MJ-808E as a helmetlight the midlevel on the 3x XM-L light, and the 50% level on the MJ-856, is more then enough light for my type of riding.

    For the price this is an awsome light. The complete light, incl shipping to Sweden, is cheaper then what a MS-battery sells for here in Sweden!



    But I will only use this light for MTB-riding.
    For road riding, and commuting, I will use my, modified, Philips light
    Philips LED bike light - Page 3

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by HakanC View Post

    ....I measured the battery current draw in my 3x XM-L light:
    1: 0,62A (5W)
    2: 1,67A (13W)
    3: 1,95A (19W)

    From this one can guestimate lumens to:
    600/1400/1800 (or so)

    I have so far only done one ride with my 3x XM-L light.
    I mounted it on the bars next to my Magicshine MJ-856 and switched between the lights during the ride.
    I like the 3x XM-L light better!
    It is slightly brighter and have a more pronounced 'hot spot'.

    With a Magicshine MJ-808E as a helmetlight the midlevel on the 3x XM-L light, and the 50% level on the MJ-856, is more then enough light for my type of riding.

    For the price this is an awsome light. The complete light, incl shipping to Sweden, is cheaper then what a MS-battery sells for here in Sweden!....
    I'll be doing doing a current measurement as well. I don't know if I would go as far to say it outputs 1800 lumen but it is bright and compares very well to the duel emitter Gloworm X2. It would be nice if one of the vendors took this lamp and created a "Deluxe" version ( one half amp more current for the high, change the strobe to a slower flash and put it in a sub menu and then include a push/hold off function with memory ) With those added features ( which really are just basic stuff ) I'd pay another $30 to $40.

    As your measurements show there is not too much difference in the current draw between mid level and high. I think if we can get two hours of run time out of the supplied battery on high we've gotten more than our money's worth.

    In the mean time this lamp is a very good value as long as it holds up. For the novice MTB'er looking for an inexpensive bar lamp with a decent output this could be your ticket to ride. Just keep in mind it is a basic "no frills" lamp. Get a MS 808E or Xeccon S-12 for the helmet ( or another spot oriented clone ) and you will have a combo set-up that has the amount of light that others spent 3X as much for.
    Last edited by Cat-man-do; 10-15-2012 at 11:55 AM.

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    edit: found answer regarding mounting

  41. #41
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    Curent output for Tri-Clone

    I tested mine with the supplied battery freshly charged. Here's what I got:

    Low: ....... 0.62 A

    Medium:...2.08 A

    High: .......2.30 A
    Just keep in mind that this doesn't account for voltage sag after the battery has run a while. All things considered, this ain't bad. I'm amazed that the low level is only 0.62A
    I say that because it's pretty bright for only drawing that much current. Believe me if the low output was too low I would of let you know. At that level I'm thinking it might run 12 hrs on low if this is a standard 4400mAh battery. I haven't done a run time test yet on high but my guess is that it should run maybe 2.5hr. On medium maybe 2.75hr. If you own a four cell set-up with premium Panasonic 3100mAh cells maybe over 3hrs.

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    If you own a four cell set-up with premium Panasonic 3100mAh cells maybe over 3hrs.
    Cat-man-do, could I easily make myself such a four cell set-up? Anything else than soldering the cells together?

    Thanks

    Johnnydrz

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    Getting right at 3hrs on high on my 6.0 GEO battery.

    Doesn't really look like 1800 lumens on high. More like 1200 and medium like 900, maybe a bit more.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnnydrz View Post
    Cat-man-do, could I easily make myself such a four cell set-up? Anything else than soldering the cells together?

    Thanks

    Johnnydrz
    If I were going to make my own pack I'd consider the 18650 holders from BatterySpace. These include a PCB ( on each set ) for protection. I'd use two of these two cell holders, connect them in parallel and use the Panasonic 3400 unprotected cells. They do make a 4-cell version but I like a square pack rather than a long flat pack.

    Option two: Yes, you could solder up your own. Big plus if you know how to do that. Panasonic cells with tabs are available. Even better if you know how to wire up your own *PCB. *BatterySpace sells them as well I believe.

    You might want to check out the DIY forum for more info on how to build your own battery pack.

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    Everyone talks about a 6.0 GEO battery. Im late to the show of lighting and batteries, and not sure if I can wrap my head around all the ins and outs of them.... however generally, people talk about their 6.0 GEO batteries...

    anyhow, if the supplied 4400mA battery that is supplied is kinda 'iffy', and Im hesitant to try to fabricate my own, is there a manufactured alternative thats known as a quality, value battery? (like it seems the magicshine series are to lights?)

  46. #46
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    Thanks Cat-man-do, I'll go with the first option, easier to charge individual cells.

    Cheers,

    Johnnydrz

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    We're having more Indian Summer here in the Bay Area. It was around 80 degrees last night on our ride. I decided to crank this up on a 20 minute climb, no wind ,etc. It didn't get hot. Yeah, it did get warm but never got hot which leads me to believe it's being driven properly and dissipates heat fairly well.

    Just an FYI for you desert nite riders.

    So far no issues w/ this 50 dollar light.

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    I can also chime in on temp. So far on a number of rides in upper 50s/low 60s (F) in the northeast and the light has yet to get hot. Not even really warm. Seems like a very solid performing light so far.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by milnerpt View Post
    Everyone talks about a 6.0 GEO battery. Im late to the show of lighting and batteries, and not sure if I can wrap my head around all the ins and outs of them.... however generally, people talk about their 6.0 GEO batteries...

    anyhow, if the supplied 4400mA battery that is supplied is kinda 'iffy', and Im hesitant to try to fabricate my own, is there a manufactured alternative thats known as a quality, value battery? (like it seems the magicshine series are to lights?)
    Supposedly some battery packs have good cells in them.

    I'm thinking I'd rather buy a 4 cell PCB from batteryspace and put together a battery pack with 26650 cells. The downside is having to buy half a dozen PCB's to meet the minimum order requirement.

  50. #50
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    Hey Milnerpt

    The batteries we speak of, GEO are replacement batteries for a recall from early Magicshine lights sold by GEOMANGEAR. GEO is out of business but he orchestrated a recall of a potentially dangerous battery.

    GEO offered a replacement 4.4ah battery which was taking a year to get so he offered a better 6.0ah battery for $25 which was a real good deal as this battery is a good quality battery. The retail on this battery was 85 and that's probably what you would pay for a good quality real 6.0ah battery.

    At this point, if I were you, I would simply use the supplied battery and maybe buy another on Ebay, $18 if you need any more run time. I would not go out and pay 85 for a battery for a cheap light system though this light seems to work real well.

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by mb323323 View Post
    At this point, if I were you, I would simply use the supplied battery and maybe buy another on Ebay, $18 if you need any more run time. I would not go out and pay 85 for a battery for a cheap light system though this light seems to work real well.
    The battery pack is compatible with other light systems. An adapter or new plugs will increase compatibility. So a good battery pack can be a better value. Even if it's not used with other lights, I think the battery is the most important part of the light system, at least with the way I ride.

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    Well, my P7 Magicshine lighthead/charger does not fit into the 3xXM-L battery. The MS plug is a little bit too wide.

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by mb323323 View Post
    Getting right at 3hrs on high on my 6.0 GEO battery.

    Doesn't really look like 1800 lumens on high. More like 1200 and medium like 900, maybe a bit more.


    I did a lux comparison yesterday and I have to agree, it is not anything like 1800 lumen.
    I compared it to my Gloworm X2 and surprisingly both out put almost the same amount of light. Keep in mind a lux read out is not the same thing as lumen read out but it helps when doing basic comparisons.

    When I get a chance I'm going to do a lux reading from 45į off camber. This should help me judge how well the lamps compare as to total flood and spill. Just judging from what my eyes are seeing, with the Gloworm using spot/flood set-up the beam patterns are almost the same.

  54. #54
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    I did another quickie ride tonight using the tri-clone as a bar light. Basically works pretty good as far as supplying a decent amount of light. Was having some problems with some of the lamps minor features. Changing modes with the Tri-clone on the bars is not the easiest thing to do. I hate having to cycle through all the extra modes ( flash and off ) Either that or I must be spoiled from using my Gloworm X2 with remote. One thing is certain, next ride is Gloworm on the bars.

    Another issue I had was that the bar mount screw had gotten a bit too loose while I was riding. While on the ride the lamp kept swiveling towards the right which was kind of a nuisance. On the plus side it means you can adjust the lamp angle a bit if you chose to do so. When I got home I tightened it up so it shouldn't move anymore ( unless I want it to ).

    Just before leaving for the ride I had a problem with the battery bag. Once again it seems the Chinese don't think that the battery bag is so important. I say that because I've had this same problems with other Chinese made bike set-ups. Namely, the strap buckles on the battery bags are VERY poorly attached. If you tighten them real tight the buckle strap will pull right off the bag ( or the plastic buckle itself will break ). Not the kind of thing you want to happen if you're mounting the battery somewhere back in the woods. Luckily for me I had another piece of Velcro attached to my helmet that usually holds my helmet torch. Since I was running the Xeccon X-12 on the helmet I didn't need the velcro so I took it off and found a way to make it hold the battery bag to the upper tube. Dang, I hate when stuff like this happens ( just before it starts to get dark )

    For the record: If you have a battery bag from a Chinese manufacture that uses the plastic buckles you might want to carry a 12" length of Velcro with you, just in case. I had the same thing happen with a Bikeray battery bag. At least the BR bag had a wider/longer length of Velcro on it that allowed me to wrap the strap around the whole battery bag even after the buckle broke. I've also had the velcro buckle straps break on the cheap rubber torch mounts...yep stuff happens.

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    Cat, I'm sure you're already familiar with these, but I'll post them for those that aren't.

    I've recently bought a few of the bags from Action LED. They aren't the highest quality, but they're cheap as hell, and they do have two straps and the straps are longer.
    The battery stays in place on my frame much better then with the stock battery bags.

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    I hate having to cycle through all the extra modes ( flash and off )
    Having off in the regular mode cycle shouldn't exist in a bike light. That should require a longer button press, another button, or some other way to access it. A light should not turn off on the way to the high mode.

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    MB, Cat, Bad Andy, HankanC

    Thanks for the great information.

    So how are the runtimes with this light? 4400ah/6400ah battery? Other than post 8, has anyone done some beam shot comparisons? Low, medium, high and compared to other lights you have? I'm thinking of ordering two, one for the bar and one for the helmet. Might be heavy, but it's probably better than the NR Storm that I've used as a helmet light for the past 10 or so years. Also, itís my understanding that the Magicshine cables/chargers and batteries appear to be compatible. Am I safe to assume that the MS extension cable will work to extend the length from helmet to jersey pocket?

    Looks at this one on ebay.

    4000 Lm 3x CREE XM-L T6 LED Bicycle bike HeadLight Rear Light Headlamp Lamp 25W | eBay

    And I agree, itís a shame they havenít figured out the button sequence. Push and hold for two seconds to power off, button clicking for low med and high and perhaps press and hold for five for strobe. Though, for $50 a light, I think it will be hard to complain.

    Thanks!
    Last edited by Mr.Grumpy; 11-01-2012 at 11:00 AM.

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Grumpy View Post
    MB, Cat, Bad Andy, HankanC

    Thanks for the great information.

    So how are the runtimes with this light? 4400ah/6400ah battery? Other than post 8, has anyone done some beam shot comparisons? Low, medium, high and compared to other lights you have? I'm thinking of ordering two, one for the bar and one for the helmet. Might be heavy, but it's probably better than the NR Storm that I've used as a helmet light for the past 10 or so years. Also, itís my understanding that the Magicshine cables/chargers and batteries appear to be compatible. Am I safe to assume that the MS extension cable will work to extend the length from helmet to jersey pocket?

    Looks at this one on ebay.

    ebay.ca/itm/4000-Lm-3x-CREE-XM-L-T6-LED-Bicycle-bike-HeadLight-Rear-Light-Headlamp-Lamp-25W-/271072209045?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item3f1d29a895#ht_8620wt_914]4000 Lm 3x CREE XM-L T6 LED Bicycle bike HeadLight Rear Light Headlamp Lamp 25W | eBay

    And I agree, itís a shame they havenít figured out the button sequence. Push and hold for two seconds to power off, button clicking for low med and high and perhaps press and hold for five for strobe. Though, for $50 a light, I think it will be hard to complain.

    Thanks!
    Sorry I can't help on most counts here. My rides are generally under 2 hours, and am only turning the lights on when it gets dark enough. No beam shot comparison's either. My MS808 is the p7 model and I've put the wide angle lense in there. That would be like comparing apples and tuna fish sandwiches. It does appear all my MS gear is compatible with this light, though I've stuck to keeping each's battery with charger combo together, for now. My MS extension cable fits too, though is of no need. There's plenty of cable hanging off the lamp and battery that I can stash the battery in my backpack. As for the light you linked to on eBay... I will be able to chime in on that one too - as soon as I've gotten mine. I've been a little nuts this year buying the chinese knockoffs. If this one is as good as the other 3x I have I'll be happy. If it's better I'll be ecstatic. 8)

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    Hey Grumpy

    Before you think they are all compatible, they are actually not all compatible. I tried the clone 3 XML light head w/ a new MS battery and the connectors were different even though they look similar. The clone connectors do all appear to be the same as my clones are compatible.

    As far as run time, I haven't tried the supplied battery yet but I am consistently running around 3 hours on high w/ a 6.0 GEO battery which is a better quality battery I'm sure. I'd guess a 2hr run time to be safe. Maybe Cat has tested this.

    I would not use this on the helmet. It's just a bit too heavy and the smaller 1 XML is plenty w/ a spot beam along w/ this. By the way, medium is probably all anybody will really ever need w/ the helmet clone on high.

    MB

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by mb323323 View Post
    ....As far as run time, I haven't tried the supplied battery yet but I am consistently running around 3 hours on high w/ a 6.0 GEO battery which is a better quality battery I'm sure. I'd guess a 2hr run time to be safe. Maybe Cat has tested this...

    MB
    I haven't tested it yet but ball-parking the run time I would think 2hrs or just under. If it gets over 2hr on high I would be thrilled. Maybe this weekend I'll give it test run. For the record, doing battery run time tests are a drag.

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad andy View Post
    Well mine has arrived. Happy to say, out of the box, it works! - which is good. I should be able to test tonight and provide some real world thoughts on this light.

    I purchased this version, which claimed to have a 6400mah battery: 3800 Lum 3x Cree XM-L XML T6 LED HeadLamp Headlight Bicycle Lamp Bike Car Light | eBay

    Though the battery is shrink-wrapped (as expected) so I really have no idea what is in there. First up is a pic of battery and charger, which is the 8.4v/1.0amp charger. Some people complain about the low amp charger but I don't find it a big deal. I've got my original magicshine 1.8amp charger and can use that if I'm in a hurry, or really go at the battery with my R/C charger if I'm in a real hurry.

    Next are some other pics of the headlamp... I am using the mount from my older niterider MiNewt, since it offers a cool removable feature. The adjustable mount attached to the headlamp is the perfect size to fit onto the niterider 'pod' which can then be removed from the helmet baseplate. Very convenient and keeps people from looking at you funny when riding without your light. This mount has also been compatible with my magicshine808, and I'd imagine is compatible with most headlamps of this size.

    The headlamp does weigh a little bit more than my 808, but I don't think I will notice too much. I have mounted the light pretty much centered on the helmet to try to keep it balanced, anyway. Those who mount their lights closer to the front of their helmet may notice the weight more.

    Last, I have some beam shots. (sorry for the bad clarity) Low/Med/Hi - It is as described in the item description, and mentioned in the above posts. The levels coordinate with how many lights are on. low = 1, med = 2, high = 3. Some people have mentioned how this sucks and the beam pattern will change throughout the various levels. I will let you know if it is discernable on the trail. Of note, LOW setting with 1 light on it is the single bottom led. MED setting with 2 lights on are the upper 2 leds. You can see what I am talking about in the pics. This programming may help the beam pattern stay somewhat balanced... we'll see.
    Well I just purchased this, hope it works as my first foray into night riding...........thanks for the review...........
    Master of Nothing, but dammit if I don't try..............

  62. #62
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    Thanks for the replies.

    The only reason I asked about the MS compatibility is for additional cable length. I've only so far found MS cables as an extension. Whatever light I get that I run on the helmet it will have to be long enough to go from the helmet to a jersey pocket, not a backpack/camel-back.

    Perhaps I'll try one of those mini cree things floating around for the helmet and this 3x Cree on the bar.

    Mini CREE LED XML XM-L T6 LED 1600Lm Bicycle Light Bike Lamp HeadLight headLamp | eBay

    Do these knock off light connectors have a name or type? I know RC land has mini deans, deans, bullet, xt60 etc.

    Thoughts?
    Thanks!
    Last edited by Mr.Grumpy; 11-01-2012 at 11:02 AM.

  63. #63
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    Hey Cat.

    Maybe this weekend I'll give it test run. For the record, doing battery run time tests are a drag
    Ya, I would think so! How about a photocell wired in to a plug with a digital clock attached. Record the time you turn the light on, face it at the photocell and go watch a movie(perhaps LOTR extended). When the light burns out the photocell switches the plug on and the timer begins. When you return (assuming the light ran dry) take note of the blinking time on the digital clock. Do some math and it should be a good unattended test for run time.

    Thoughts?

    If I recall, some digital clocks flash 12 forever while some flash but advance the time.

    I'm sure there are better tools but this could be done for cheap!

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Grumpy View Post
    ... How about a photocell wired in to a plug with a digital clock attached
    I think I've got a better solution than that. Pick up a low end Canon point and shoot that is CHDK compatible. CHDK is an alternative firmware, loaded from the card when the camera is tuned on, if the "lock" on the SD card is tuned on. I got a "last year's model" camera for $60. Even full price they are $80ish.

    CHDK has a host of features. One of them is an intervalometer script. You set how often you want it to take a pic. You could either turn on the time/date stamp in the picture or use the file date/time as your reference. Set the script to shoot every minute or 30 sec, and to run for say 4 hrs. You could flip through the pics and see when the light went out. It could also be useful in those temperature monitoring setups, if the readout was in the picture.

    Maybe the Motion script might be better. When something changes in the camera's field of view, it takes a pic. You can set the sensitivity. I'd bet it would note when the light dimmed down, and probably even when the colours change on the back button. I think I'm gonna have to try it to see how well it works. On some of the faster cameras people even use it to take pictures of lightening.

    CHDK is a little geeky, and not exactly intuitive. It gives you a ridiculous amount of control, and extra features on a bottom end point and shoot.

    I used the motion script when my elderly cat was reaching the end of her days. I set it to watch her dish to see if/how often she drank or ate. Of course because the camera would make a noise whenever it focused and took a picture, I got many of her looking right into the lens. Brings tears to my eyes just thinking about it. But it did work very well.

  65. #65
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    Runtime test can be less of a pain when using a video camera on low resolution mode - Colleen does this too. It saves time doing runtime test.

    Use any camera with video mode or GoPro type cameras. Set it to low res because that will require less memory. A decent SD card should get you over 4 hours on low res.

    Set the camera behind the light head so you can see the switch/indicator button, with a clock off angle in front of a fan set about a foot away from the light head. You may have the temperature/lux reader on the other side of the clock - all within the video frame.

    Check the time. Turn on the temp/lux reader. Start recording. Turn on the light and fan. Go watch TV, sign in to mtbr or go to sleep.

    Replay the video. While holding down the video player marker, dragging it forward and backward will tell:
    - lux reading from start to finish
    - temperature rise rate and temperature plateau
    - thermal shutdown (and restart time if any) if no airflow was introduced
    - at what times the indicator changed colors
    - whether there was thermal stepdown or brightness change (drag the marker right to left and back again if you do not have a lux meter. You will catch variations better this way)
    - and the time the light went off

    Leonard
    Leonard - All things Xeccon + Beyond
    mtbRevolution.com

  66. #66
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    Ian_C and Xeccon.

    Both very good points. Also a laptop/workstation with a webcam will do!

  67. #67
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    I'm looking for a bike light (my first one eheh) as the winter as arrived and days are now shorter... I will be riding mainly in the street with some cars and some off road as well, but nothing like mountain biking all alone into the deep woods.
    Having said that, does this light works for me? I've read through the 3 pages already and i see HakanC does not recommends this for road biking. So, HakanC, do you think i can mod this light to adjust it to road biking? User Infinity123 posted on another topic he modded it not to blind people:
    gratisimage.dk/image-48C7_508A7582.jpg
    I think i will do the same as i will have only this light for now.

    One more thing: it is not waterproof right? Neither is the battery case, right? If i do get this lamp should i put the battery case inside a water balloon (those little ones) like i've read somewhere?

    Thank you all, this forum has really helped me out.

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by PedroDank View Post
    One more thing: it is not waterproof right? Neither is the battery case, right?
    The light head is pretty Waterproff. The batterypack is not. I have wrapped it in a plastic bag and taped it shut. But there are of course other ways to deal with this matter.



    Hereīs a little info on the cap on my light:
    Commuting lights - Mtbr Forums



    Quote Originally Posted by PedroDank View Post
    Do you use the original battery? If so, for how long does this thing run on medium. Also, do you ride in the rain?
    Q1: Yes, Q2: I donīt know (2-3 hours?), Q3: No

  69. #69
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    Thanks Infinity123!
    I guess I've now found my bike light. Will try to add a cap like that too. Shouldn't it be reflective, though? I see you made it out of a plastic bag...

    Also, anyone with this wide angle lens? action-led-lights.com/collections/accessories/products/wide-angle-lens ?

    Going to buy the bike light from ebay.com/itm/3X-CREE-XM-L-T6-LED-3800Lm-LED-Headlight-Headlamp-Bicycle-Bike-Light-/251152598491?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a79dc85db in 3 or 4 days.

  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by PedroDank View Post
    Shouldn't it be reflective, though? I see you made it out of a plastic bag...
    Sure, if you want to. The white plastic works fine for me.

    Iīm not sure the wide angle lens would work in a 3x LED design? However, you donīt need it. The 3X XM-L has a lovely floody light.
    Could you please use the "link" or "picture" button when you post a link/picture in a message? It would make it a lot easier for the rest of us, thanks.

  71. #71
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    Yeah, they probably would not. I just saw a lot of pics of users modifying their MS with these wide angle lenses and the result is jut amazing. See here: forums.mtbr.com/8859193-post1.html But if you say it is good enough for commuting... Also, with this wide angle lens, i guess it would hurt pedestrians and drivers eyes, right? Anyway, i will how it is first and will decide later, after some tests ,if i need to mod it or not (adding the cap).
    About the images and links, I would if i could. :\ I dont have 10 posts yet, that is why i cant post links and images...

    Anyone else using this kind of cap? If i do decide to make one, i think it would be better to cover the inside of the plastic with an aluminum foil... At least the light won't be "lost"...

    I hope i get it right at the first time, because i can't really spend that much on bike lights now. :P
    Last edited by PedroDank; 10-29-2012 at 08:57 AM.

  72. #72
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    Hey!

    So I've ordered two different systems and I'll report back once I receive them. I'll try and do some testing/beam shots but we'll see!

    4000 Lm 3x CREE XM-L T6 LED Bicycle bike HeadLight Rear Light Headlamp Lamp 25W | eBay

    Mini CREE LED XML XM-L T6 LED 1600Lm Bicycle Light Bike Lamp HeadLight headLamp | eBay
    Last edited by Mr.Grumpy; 11-01-2012 at 11:04 AM.

  73. #73
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    Hey Grump

    Really curious about that mini. Maybe you can post a pict next to the 3XML to see size difference.

    Beam shot would be great too.

  74. #74
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    Mb,

    Will do what I can. Now the wait... 2ish weeks to land.

    Only three more posts and I can post links and pictures. How exciting!

  75. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Infinity123;9825965 The white plastic works fine for me.

    [IMG
    http://www.gratisimage.dk/image-48C7_508A7582.jpg[/IMG]

    .
    Infinity...I like the white hood for the tri-clone. I know you made this for road use ( right? ) but I think it will help when Mt. biking too. I've noticed that the Tri-clone sends a lot of light upward into the trees. Too much in my opinion. You might try lining the underside of the hood with some aluminum foil as that may return more of the light back down towards the trail. I might try my hand at this as well to see how well it might work.

  76. #76
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    I've ordered 2 of these lights, and I also intend to try some type of "hood" to control the beam. Please continue posting your results with these types of mods, I find this very interesting!

    Johnnydrz

  77. #77
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    I've been watching this thread. I just don't have $250 or $300 for a lighting system right now. I've been looking at a mini light for a headlamp that supposedly has an 8800 maH battery pack. I figure if I get one of the XM-L x3 clones I could switch batteries and have a bit longer life. I can't post a link to the light yet though.

    What do ya think.

  78. #78
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    Hey Ironbrewer.

    You can't post links until you've posted ten times. Hint, if you drop the www from the link, you can, they just aren't clickable. As for if the battery is compatible, assuming the voltage is the same, the only problem I can see is if the connector is the same.

  79. #79
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    I'm not so sure about a 8800mah battery pack (at 8.4v). If it's a typical 4 cell pack (most are), then it is realistically 4400mah, or sometimes 5200mah (but unlikely for a Chinese cell pack).

  80. #80
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    So the small one I was thinking of getting is this one

    ebay.com/itm/140842626907?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

    but I noticed the voltage is 4.2.

    The XM-L 3x I want to get is this one

    ebay.com/itm/261115431796?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

    So I guess the batteries won't be compatible.

    I figure having the small one on my helmet and the big one on my bars will be a good combination.

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by qdave View Post
    I'm not so sure about a 8800mah battery pack (at 8.4v). If it's a typical 4 cell pack (most are), then it is realistically 4400mah, or sometimes 5200mah (but unlikely for a Chinese cell pack).
    Exactly. I really don't understand that 8800mAh battery... I did found a 6400mAh though, but never 8800mAh. I'm going to order it anyway...

  82. #82
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    I don't even think they understand sometimes what they are advertising. Yeah, that is a standard 4400mah pack. Don't expect anything else.

    Cat or others, my clone 3 up is doing something weird. It works, no problem but when I turn it up from low to medium, I can see one of the LED's is bright and the other dim for a few seconds. Then the other LED brightens up as well. Only does this on medium.

    What do you think the issue might be. I was hoping to get at least a season out of this. Still works though.

    MB

  83. #83
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    Isn't it possible that it's an eight cell battery to get 8800mah? Basically two 4400 mah packs wired in parallel? What is the operating voltage on these lights? I saw the amp usage earlier in the thread and the chargers are all 8.4 volts. RC two cell batteries if I recall are 7.4 volts but charge at 8.4. Are these batteries the same? If the lights are running at 7.4 volts operational, buy some RC two cells hardcase batteries from hobbyking throw in a better charger (balancing) and you are laughing. Turnigy batteries have served me well!

    Turnigy 5200mAh 2S 30C Hard-Case Car Lipo Pack (USA Warehouse)
    IMAX B6 Charger/Discharger 1-6 Cells (GENUINE)

    Cat
    Low: ....... 0.62 A
    Medium:...2.08 A
    High: .......2.30 A

    HakanC
    0,62A (5W)
    2: 1,67A (13W)
    3: 1,95A (19W)
    Last edited by Mr.Grumpy; 11-01-2012 at 10:58 AM.

  84. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by mb323323 View Post
    ....Cat or others, my clone 3 up is doing something weird. It works, no problem but when I turn it up from low to medium, I can see one of the LED's is bright and the other dim for a few seconds. Then the other LED brightens up as well. Only does this on medium.

    What do you think the issue might be. I was hoping to get at least a season out of this. Still works though.

    MB
    Well at least it still works. It could be something as simple as a bad soldered joint on one of the wires going to the emitter. When it heats up it expands and makes better contact. That's just one possibility.

    I'm still trying to figure out how you noticed that. Not real easy to look into the front of one of these lamps when they're on. Then again I noticed one time that a single die on a P-7 emitter had gone out on one of my torches. That was on low mode though with a half dead battery.

    I'm laughing now because I just got finished testing mine by using some dark yellow paper as a filter. Now I'm seeing spots in front of my eyes.

  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironbrewer View Post
    I've been watching this thread. I just don't have $250 or $300 for a lighting system right now. I've been looking at a mini light for a headlamp that supposedly has an 8800 maH battery pack. I figure if I get one of the XM-L x3 clones I could switch batteries and have a bit longer life. I can't post a link to the light yet though.

    What do ya think.
    Hey. The one you linked looks like the typical magic shine clone with a blue casing and hopefully a higher capacity battery. Won't know until you try it. For the helmet I went with the following eBay item.

    Mini CREE LED XML XM-L T6 LED 1600Lm Bicycle Light Bike Lamp HeadLight headLamp | eBay

    For the bars I went with the same 3x xml light you linked to, same seller (rabbit).

    I should see them in a couple of weeks and ill report back! So, if you can wait...
    Last edited by Mr.Grumpy; 11-01-2012 at 10:57 AM.

  86. #86
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    The 6400mah packs you see advertised...don't exist...not on lights at that price level... Panasonic now has a 3200mah 18650 cell, but they cost like $10 EACH retail. You're not going to find a battery pack with 4 of them on a $50 buy-it-now light. Those batteries are the standard 4400mah ones practically everyone uses because the 2200mah cells are ridiculously cheap and common now. The battery that magicshine uses with the 880 lamp is 6 of those cells as 2S3P configured for a 6600mah pack. Now it is possible to make a 8800 pack using a 1S4P configuration to the battery, and for a single LED lamp that's certainly plausible since they need at most 3.3V to drive the LED at maximum current. In fact, I have a XML head/helmet lamp that uses a holder on the back of the mount to hold a pair of individual 18650 cells running in a 1S2P configuration, and in fact will operate with just a single cell in either holder space.

    The problem with all these lights is you basically need to make a testing circuit wire to actually measure the current draw when its running. On LED flashlights this is simple because you can remove the end cap / switch, and then just jump the circuit together with the multimeter touching one lead to the negative terminal of the battery and the other lead to the flashlight body someplace where exposed/unannodized metal is. On one of my single XML flashlights, at full power its drawing 2 Amps, which going off cree's chart for the LED gives about 690 lumens. However I have a supposedly triple XML flashlight that uses two 18650 cells in series, and at MAXIMUM power its pulling a mere 1 amp. With lights with battery packs, you'll need to sacrifice a wire, preferably something like one of the 1 meter extension wires used for helmet setups, cutting it apart, then joining the positive or negative wires back together with an insulated butt connector (so you can't accidently short the battery), and then putting connectors on the other matching wires with enough of a gap. You'll then touch the multimeter leads to these connectors to bridge the circuit and measure the current.
    I don't post to generate business for myself or make like I'm better than sliced bread

  87. #87
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    I ordered one from the OP link. Received it yesterday and after charging the battery for a couple hours. I plug everything together to try out the light. It powered up, cycled through the settings and it worked. Put the battery pack to charge, tried it this morning and the light did not turn on. I email the seller, see what he says. I will dig into the light after work, any suggestions?

  88. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironbrewer View Post
    So the small one I was thinking of getting is this one

    ebay.com/itm/140842626907?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

    but I noticed the voltage is 4.2.
    To eliminate the confusion I took a look at this. Yes, the battery voltage is 4.2 volts. That means the driver is set-up to run on that voltage. The battery itself is listed as 8800mah. Likely four 2.2mAh cells in parallel. Basically this is almost the same as a 7.2 volt 4400mAh battery ( 2S/2P ). The real issue that determines run time is the watt/hr rating and how hard the emitter is being driven. In a nut shell expect it to have the same run time as the 7.2 volt 4400mAh batteries ( all things being equal ...ie...emitter/current level )

    Whether or not this lamp is compatible with a 7.2 volt battery is questionable. Hard to argue with the price.

  89. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by vwchisme View Post
    I ordered one from the OP link. Received it yesterday and after charging the battery for a couple hours. I plug everything together to try out the light. It powered up, cycled through the settings and it worked. Put the battery pack to charge, tried it this morning and the light did not turn on. I email the seller, see what he says. I will dig into the light after work, any suggestions?
    You might have an intermittent short or break in a plug wire. Plug the battery back into the charger to re-set the battery. Then try the light again. If it works then you likely have the issue I suggested.

  90. #90
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    Yeah, I was just going by the picture which looks exactly like (size in pict) a 4.4ah typical battery. An 8.8 ah battery would be twice the size. Hard to tell in a photo tho.

  91. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    To eliminate the confusion I took a look at this. Yes, the battery voltage is 4.2 volts. That means the driver is set-up to run on that voltage. The battery itself is listed as 8800mah. Likely four 2.2mAh cells in parallel. Basically this is almost the same as a 7.2 volt 4400mAh battery ( 2S/2P ). The real issue that determines run time is the watt/hr rating and how hard the emitter is being driven. In a nut shell expect it to have the same run time as the 7.2 volt 4400mAh batteries ( all things being equal ...ie...emitter/current level )

    Whether or not this lamp is compatible with a 7.2 volt battery is questionable. Hard to argue with the price.
    I'll give it a try when i get home tonight, thanks.

  92. #92
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    Thanks for the replies.

  93. #93
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    Anyone looking to order, I see dx.com has an actual MagicShine 872 @ 40% off. Not sure when the sale started or when it will end, but at $25 more than a Chinese knock off, it might be worth it. I probably would have bought this if I hadn't just ordered a cheap 3xml already. I have read that the 872 has overheating problems though. No idea. Around here night riding season is cold so I doubt it would be a problem.

    MagicShine MJ-872 Waterproof 4-CREE XP-G 4-Mode 1600-Lumen LED Bike Light with Battery Pack Set - Worldwide Free Shipping - DX

    Anyways, something to consider...
    Last edited by Mr.Grumpy; 11-01-2012 at 11:06 AM.

  94. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Grumpy View Post
    Anyone looking to order, I see dx.com has an actual MagicShine 872 @ 40% off. Not sure when the sale started or when it will end, but at $25 more than a Chinese knock off, it might be worth it. I probably would have bought this if I hadn't just ordered a cheap 3xml already. I have read that the 872 has overheating problems though. No idea. Around here night riding season is cold so I doubt it would be a problem.

    MagicShine MJ-872 Waterproof 4-CREE XP-G 4-Mode 1600-Lumen LED Bike Light with Battery Pack Set - Worldwide Free Shipping - DX

    Anyways, something to consider...
    I'm not saying the 872 can't work as a bar lamp but judging from previous beam shots the Tri-clone lamp you ordered will have a brighter, farther throwing beam pattern. The only advantage I see with the 872 is that you get a mode set-up that you won't have to cycle through strobe or off.

  95. #95
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    Hey Cat.

    One of the guys that rides with us from time to time has a 872, looks pretty good. But at it's regular price of $130ish, it's not worth it. At only $25 more, it closes that gap compared to the $50 3xml. I'm not saying it's better for light, but it might be better quality...

    Beam shot for MS 872, MS 880, Gemini Olympia
    http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/010...m-test.gif?902

    I'm not getting one, already committed to the Chinese specials!

  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    You might have an intermittent short or break in a plug wire. Plug the battery back into the charger to re-set the battery. Then try the light again. If it works then you likely have the issue I suggested.
    Tried your suggestion and no luck getting it to work. I pulled out my multimeter and measured at the battery plug 8.25v. Next I measured at the headlamp switch exposed leads 0v.

  97. #97
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    Just for kicks I'm thinking of trying this out. Already have a MJ-872 on the bars, and a Gemini Duo for the helmet, and the MJ-808E it replaced. I'm using the Geo 6.0Ah battery, and think that will be suitable for this light.

    My question is if it will be noticeably brighter than the MJ-872. Anyone have experience with both of these and can give me a comparison?
    "Got everything you need?"

  98. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by vwchisme View Post
    Tried your suggestion and no luck getting it to work. I pulled out my multimeter and measured at the battery plug 8.25v. Next I measured at the headlamp switch exposed leads 0v.
    So you managed to disassemble the tri-clone(?)! Well, if you did that you might try measuring the continuity of the wires leading from the light head to the battery (male) plug ( since the battery plugs seem to work you need not worry about the battery side ). ). Using the resistance setting on the multlimeter...measure each lead ( positive and negative ) one at a time. If you get zero resistance than the wire is fine. If you get infinite resistance the wire is bad. If one wire is bad it would be best just to replace the whole plug and wire assembly to the light head. If this doesn't fix it than something else is wrong and won't be an easy fix.

    Anyway, is there a way you can show a photo of what you're dealing with? Details on how you got this apart would be great. I've thought about taking mine apart but I won't do that if it still works.

  99. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    So you managed to disassemble the tri-clone(?)!
    I was going to disassemble, but the seller is going to replace the light. Attached is a picture of the area i was measuring for voltage.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-imag0039.1.jpg  

    New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-imag0045.1.jpg  


  100. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by vwchisme View Post
    I was going to disassemble, but the seller is going to replace the light. Attached is a picture of the area i was measuring for voltage.
    Very interesting. So it looks like the pill that holds the driver/switch assembly is attached to the part that has the LED's mounted. Since they both look like they are attached pretty securely it does help explain why the lamp seems to have a good ability to sink heat. Definitely doesn't look like you can access the connections to the driver. At least the seller is going to replace so that is good. All things considered, I think it would of been better to contact the seller first before disassembling the light.

    Anyway, thanks for the photos. At least I know that if something goes wrong with mine trying to fix it by disassembling is pretty much a lost cause unless I could gain access to the driver. Now that I know what the internals look like I know not to try messing with a tear down.

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