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  1. #176
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    To expand a bit on my last post.
    For guys like Cat-Man-Do and myself, and any others that have a lot of different lights, batteries and chargers already laying around, these lights are fine to take a gamble on.

    But for a noob who is just looking for a good, reliable light, and it's going to be their only light, I'd suggest going with something else.

  2. #177
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    Thanks for the replies!
    So a single clone xmlt6 will have a life about 3 hours, and the 3x xmlt6 setup will get barely 1 hour?
    So none of these eBay/amazon clones have decent battery packs? (for the 2 or 3x setups)

  3. #178
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    I would say that if you need to go cheap, go w/ 2 lights for sure and go w/ the XML-1 clone. One on the helmet and one on the bars and you will be just fine w/ the amount of light and the run time since they do not have multi LED's.

    They might only last a year but they are cheap. Some of us are actually getting more than a year tho.

    Otherwise it's 200++++ for good lights. More if you want helmet and bar.

    Either way, never ride w/ just 1.

  4. #179
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    I agree with going for two lights if buying into the low cost Chinese lights. If one fails, then you (hopefully) have a back up light and back up battery. And look for lights with decent reviews (if possible).
    1800 Lumen CREE XML XM L T6 LED Bicycle Light Bike Cycle Lamp Headlight Headlamp | eBay
    I bought two of these lights, from different vendors, and am very happy with them (so far). I tested the batteries of both at home and got 4 hours 10 minutes out of one and 4 hours 11 minutes out of the other. Nice, since I was just hoping for 3 hours. Also nice that they quit with long burn times and similar burn times, so hopefully new, decent cells in them. Downside is the button on the lights goes red too early (I forget when), but it does flash red just a while before the light dies. Batteries still had 6.6v left when lights went out, so not over discharged. Only running these lights for about a month, but so far so good. I use both of these on the bars and an XP-G flashlight or old Magicshine on my helmet (can't have too many lights).

  5. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoHeadsBrewing View Post
    Price was really my motivator at the time, since I already have RC batteries lying around. They're about $20 for a 4400-5000mah battery. Chargers are anywhere from $15 for cheapos to $60 for nice digital chargers that will balance out each battery cell. In addition, the RC batteries are built for high discharge (20c-40c). Using them for lights barely stresses out the batteries at all and keeps the cells pretty well in balance and they last longer.

    The bad side is that RC batteries have no protection circuits within, as they typically depend on the electronic speed controller of the RC vehicle to stop the motor when it reaches a certain low voltage point. In short, that means you have to be careful to not over discharge your battery. When your light indicates low battery you need to stop using it within a few minutes or you risk bricking your battery. Not really a big deal if you're paying attention, but it's not quite as plug and play as existing "bike light" batteries.

    Here's a LiPo 5000mah soft case battery thrown in an old water bottle:


    I soldered up a "Deans" style connector -> Magicshine connector:
    Great idea, I would even swap to deans pins, I worked for a hobbie shop for a long time and built all my battery's & we even matched out own cells..I would think it would be a great place to get batterys..
    2012 Trek Superfly 100 Carbon/ xx1 / xo type2
    Tampa FL USA

  6. #181
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    I buy all of my HID's from these people, never had a problem...would something like this work for bikes?

    http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/GT-LED
    2012 Trek Superfly 100 Carbon/ xx1 / xo type2
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  7. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corbinworks View Post
    I buy all of my HID's from these people, never had a problem...would something like this work for bikes?

    http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/GT-LED
    2 problems I see:

    1) Mounting the light on your bike.

    2) The 12 Volt requirement. You would need a very big battery pack.

  8. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corbinworks View Post
    I buy all of my HID's from these people, never had a problem...would something like this work for bikes?

    http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/GT-LED
    If you use a Li-ion 11.1 volt battery it should work. The down side, you still need to buy a battery. Adding to that, low run time as there is no mode selection and you have to fashion your own mount. Since they cost more I suggest the lamp offered in the OP is better for bike use although the battery could be better.

  9. #184
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    If those are indeed rivots in the back housing, I wonder how they will hold up in term of keeping water out of the housing? Interesting way of holding the unit together unless they are more for cosmetic reasoning.

  10. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by bornmodernbaby View Post
    If those are indeed rivots in the back housing
    It's not. It's machined to look like rivets.

  11. #186
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    So, first ride done with the lights, 3 hours away from the house, 2.5 of that was moving time. I used the light I'm not supposed to talk about on low for the entire moving time without any problems. I used the 3x XML Tri-Clone on the descents mostly on low with some medium in there. Honestly I felt that both lights on low did a pretty good job overall. But nothing I rode last night would I consider high speed. It was mostly tight single track with lots of twists and turns. Overall happy with the lights. I'll charge up the batteries tonight and report back what I put in. Should give me an idea of what to expect. I was very conservative with the light usage last night.

    Quote Originally Posted by mb323323 View Post
    How do you like the output of it. Spot it looks like. Does it out throw the XML-3 clone.MB
    The throw on the mini cree is further than the tri-clone. Spot vs. flood, spot wins!

  12. #187
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    Well I need a new plastic mount for mine. First time mounting to the handlebars and the plastic around the screw hole snapped. Duct taped it back on, and then a minor crash caused the plastic to break where the o-ring hooks onto it. For some reason the plastic is very brittle.

    Anyone have an idea of something to replace the mount with?

  13. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by presslab View Post
    Anyone have an idea of something to replace the mount with?
    I went with the same type of mount from Action LED. $6 for first class shipping and really fast service. It comes with the screw.

  14. #189
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    Update.

    The 1x mini Cree's battery took about 1100 milliamperes charge. It was run for at least 2.5 hours, mostly on low. On a discharge cycle I was able to pull almost 3700 milliamperes from this battery (6v cutoff). So there should be lots more runtime with this light.

    The 3x XML Tri-Clone's battery took about a 1600 milliamperes charge. It was run for about 90 minutes mostly on low. On a discharge cycle I pulled around 2300 milliamperes from the stock battery (6v cutoff). As we know, the batteries that come with the Tri-clone appear to suck. I have another one coming from the eBay seller I bought from. Hopefully it's better.

    Anyone else out there have the means to run their stock TRI-clone battery on a discharge cycle with an rc charger? If be curious if these batteries are all the same, or if one eBay seller is better than another.

  15. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Grumpy View Post
    Update.

    The 1x mini Cree's battery took about 1100 milliamperes charge. It was run for at least 2.5 hours, mostly on low. On a discharge cycle I was able to pull almost 3700 milliamperes from this battery (6v cutoff). So there should be lots more runtime with this light.

    The 3x XML Tri-Clone's battery took about a 1600 milliamperes charge. It was run for about 90 minutes mostly on low. On a discharge cycle I pulled around 2300 milliamperes from the stock battery (6v cutoff). As we know, the batteries that come with the Tri-clone appear to suck. I have another one coming from the eBay seller I bought from. Hopefully it's better.

    Anyone else out there have the means to run their stock TRI-clone battery on a discharge cycle with an rc charger? If be curious if these batteries are all the same, or if one eBay seller is better than another.
    Sorry, don't have a rc charger/discharger but I am running a run time test on high with the supplied battery. If it doesn't get at least 1.5 hrs then yes it does suck. What I don't understand is that I'm seeing these lamps ( TRI-clones and clones of TRI-clone ) being sold all over the place but have yet to see one of these being sold with an up-graded battery. Even a 5200mAh battery would be a vast improvement. First place to do it will make some bucks.

  16. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Sorry, don't have a rc charger/discharger but I am running a run time test on high with the supplied battery. If it doesn't get at least 1.5 hrs then yes it does suck.... .
    Well it turns out mine Super-sucks... I got 1 hr. 10 minutes on high. When I reset the battery I only got 1 more minute on low. That's pretty bad. In comparison my 5200mAh Bikeray battery got 2hrs on high and an extra 20 minutes on low when I reset the battery.

    Anyway I figure these TRI-clone cells are likely no more than 1500mAh ea. ( if that )

  17. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by mb323323 View Post
    I would say that if you need to go cheap, go w/ 2 lights for sure and go w/ the XML-1 clone. One on the helmet and one on the bars and you will be just fine w/ the amount of light and the run time since they do not have multi LED's.
    Either way, never ride w/ just 1.
    Another disadvantage of a single Big light is that (especially with long travel forks) the illumination range is limited under heavy braking due to brake dive.

    In this conditions a second (helmet) light is very useful to extend the field of vision
    [SIZE="4"]flyMTBfish[/SIZE]

  18. #193
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Well it turns out mine Super-sucks... I got 1 hr. 10 minutes on high. When I reset the battery I only got 1 more minute on low. That's pretty bad. In comparison my 5200mAh Bikeray battery got 2hrs on high and an extra 20 minutes on low when I reset the battery.

    Anyway I figure these TRI-clone cells are likely no more than 1500mAh ea. ( if that )
    I ran my Tri-Clone on high last night. 1 Hour 5 Minutes and it was done. I charged it back up and it took back 2100ish milliamps. I'm at work now, but I'm running the low test as a type this. I'll also do a medium test and report back my findings.

    I'm guessing there is probably one manufacture of the Tri-Clones and they are shipping the same crap batteries to all the ebay sellers. So they all suck. Just my guess.
    Last edited by Mr.Grumpy; 11-23-2012 at 03:35 PM.

  19. #194
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    I purchased a tri-clone on OCt 12, 2012 from securityingstore via ebay for $52 shipped. Can't post links yet, so pm for link if it would be helpful.

    After 4 full charge to shutdown cycles, I'm at 1:36:12 on Low. Supposed 4400mAh 4 cell battery pack. Haven't tried "Hi" yet. Button is green plastic colored; no change to red before dying.

    Questions:
    1) Is this in the ballpark of what other people are getting or am I running short?

    2) After the light shut itself off, I plugged it into the charger for about 5 seconds, and then took it off. Connected it back up in the light ran fine for about 30 seconds. I pulled it off after that, because I didn't want to damage the battery pack by draining it to far. At the same time, I've read about "resetting" the battery pack by plugging it in briefly.

    Could someone better describe this process if it will give me extra battery life without damaging the batteries?

    3) Is there an aftermarket pack that is recommended at this point? The other option is just for me to buy a 2nd light, leave it strapped to my road bike, and then use the 2 packs together when I go out for longer rides.

    Thanks for your collective knowledge. -Marshall

  20. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by eugovector View Post

    After 4 full charge to shutdown cycles, I'm at 1:36:12 on Low. Supposed 4400mAh 4 cell battery pack. Haven't tried "Hi" yet. Button is green plastic colored; no change to red before dying.

    Questions:
    1) Is this in the ballpark of what other people are getting or am I
    On low, that runtime seems way to low. I tested low today and I got 3 Hours 43 minutes. I'm charging the battery now and will do a medium test tonight. High was on par with others results, just over an hour. I suspect medium won't be much longer.

    If you are only getting 1.5 hours on low, your battery is really bad, makes our crap batteries look good!

    Maybe it's a charger issue? I haven't used the factory charger yet.

  21. #196
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Grumpy View Post
    On low, that runtime seems way to low. I tested low today and I got 3 Hours 43 minutes. I'm charging the battery now and will do a medium test tonight. High was on par with others results, just over an hour. I suspect medium won't be much longer.

    If you are only getting 1.5 hours on low, your battery is really bad, makes our crap batteries look good!

    Maybe it's a charger issue? I haven't used the factory charger yet.
    I thought that seemed really low. I'm just using the charger that came with it. What charger are you using?

  22. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by eugovector View Post
    I thought that seemed really low. I'm just using the charger that came with it. What charger are you using?
    I'm using a rc hobby charger.

    Turnigy Accucel-6 50W 6A Balancer/Charger w/ accessories

  23. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Grumpy View Post
    Is this kind of charger good for the LED batteries? Such as geminis?

  24. #199
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    Quote Originally Posted by mazspeed View Post
    Is this kind of charger good for the LED batteries? Such as geminis?
    Yes. Though you may need to do some soldering to match the plugs, depending what the gemini comes with. The only other catch, these chargers aren't just plug in and go. You need to set them to the right battery type, voltage and what amp rate you want to charge at. It's really not that hard, if you have the time, tools and patience.

  25. #200
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    Quote Originally Posted by leaftye View Post
    I went with the same type of mount from Action LED. $6 for first class shipping and really fast service. It comes with the screw.
    Thanks! Got one on order.

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