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  1. #76
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    I've ordered 2 of these lights, and I also intend to try some type of "hood" to control the beam. Please continue posting your results with these types of mods, I find this very interesting!

    Johnnydrz

  2. #77
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    I've been watching this thread. I just don't have $250 or $300 for a lighting system right now. I've been looking at a mini light for a headlamp that supposedly has an 8800 maH battery pack. I figure if I get one of the XM-L x3 clones I could switch batteries and have a bit longer life. I can't post a link to the light yet though.

    What do ya think.

  3. #78
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    Hey Ironbrewer.

    You can't post links until you've posted ten times. Hint, if you drop the www from the link, you can, they just aren't clickable. As for if the battery is compatible, assuming the voltage is the same, the only problem I can see is if the connector is the same.

  4. #79
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    I'm not so sure about a 8800mah battery pack (at 8.4v). If it's a typical 4 cell pack (most are), then it is realistically 4400mah, or sometimes 5200mah (but unlikely for a Chinese cell pack).

  5. #80
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    So the small one I was thinking of getting is this one

    ebay.com/itm/140842626907?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

    but I noticed the voltage is 4.2.

    The XM-L 3x I want to get is this one

    ebay.com/itm/261115431796?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

    So I guess the batteries won't be compatible.

    I figure having the small one on my helmet and the big one on my bars will be a good combination.

  6. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by qdave View Post
    I'm not so sure about a 8800mah battery pack (at 8.4v). If it's a typical 4 cell pack (most are), then it is realistically 4400mah, or sometimes 5200mah (but unlikely for a Chinese cell pack).
    Exactly. I really don't understand that 8800mAh battery... I did found a 6400mAh though, but never 8800mAh. I'm going to order it anyway...

  7. #82
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    I don't even think they understand sometimes what they are advertising. Yeah, that is a standard 4400mah pack. Don't expect anything else.

    Cat or others, my clone 3 up is doing something weird. It works, no problem but when I turn it up from low to medium, I can see one of the LED's is bright and the other dim for a few seconds. Then the other LED brightens up as well. Only does this on medium.

    What do you think the issue might be. I was hoping to get at least a season out of this. Still works though.

    MB

  8. #83
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    Isn't it possible that it's an eight cell battery to get 8800mah? Basically two 4400 mah packs wired in parallel? What is the operating voltage on these lights? I saw the amp usage earlier in the thread and the chargers are all 8.4 volts. RC two cell batteries if I recall are 7.4 volts but charge at 8.4. Are these batteries the same? If the lights are running at 7.4 volts operational, buy some RC two cells hardcase batteries from hobbyking throw in a better charger (balancing) and you are laughing. Turnigy batteries have served me well!

    Turnigy 5200mAh 2S 30C Hard-Case Car Lipo Pack (USA Warehouse)
    IMAX B6 Charger/Discharger 1-6 Cells (GENUINE)

    Cat
    Low: ....... 0.62 A
    Medium:...2.08 A
    High: .......2.30 A

    HakanC
    0,62A (5W)
    2: 1,67A (13W)
    3: 1,95A (19W)
    Last edited by Mr.Grumpy; 11-01-2012 at 11:58 AM.

  9. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by mb323323 View Post
    ....Cat or others, my clone 3 up is doing something weird. It works, no problem but when I turn it up from low to medium, I can see one of the LED's is bright and the other dim for a few seconds. Then the other LED brightens up as well. Only does this on medium.

    What do you think the issue might be. I was hoping to get at least a season out of this. Still works though.

    MB
    Well at least it still works. It could be something as simple as a bad soldered joint on one of the wires going to the emitter. When it heats up it expands and makes better contact. That's just one possibility.

    I'm still trying to figure out how you noticed that. Not real easy to look into the front of one of these lamps when they're on. Then again I noticed one time that a single die on a P-7 emitter had gone out on one of my torches. That was on low mode though with a half dead battery.

    I'm laughing now because I just got finished testing mine by using some dark yellow paper as a filter. Now I'm seeing spots in front of my eyes.

  10. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironbrewer View Post
    I've been watching this thread. I just don't have $250 or $300 for a lighting system right now. I've been looking at a mini light for a headlamp that supposedly has an 8800 maH battery pack. I figure if I get one of the XM-L x3 clones I could switch batteries and have a bit longer life. I can't post a link to the light yet though.

    What do ya think.
    Hey. The one you linked looks like the typical magic shine clone with a blue casing and hopefully a higher capacity battery. Won't know until you try it. For the helmet I went with the following eBay item.

    Mini CREE LED XML XM-L T6 LED 1600Lm Bicycle Light Bike Lamp HeadLight headLamp | eBay

    For the bars I went with the same 3x xml light you linked to, same seller (rabbit).

    I should see them in a couple of weeks and ill report back! So, if you can wait...
    Last edited by Mr.Grumpy; 11-01-2012 at 11:57 AM.

  11. #86
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    The 6400mah packs you see advertised...don't exist...not on lights at that price level... Panasonic now has a 3200mah 18650 cell, but they cost like $10 EACH retail. You're not going to find a battery pack with 4 of them on a $50 buy-it-now light. Those batteries are the standard 4400mah ones practically everyone uses because the 2200mah cells are ridiculously cheap and common now. The battery that magicshine uses with the 880 lamp is 6 of those cells as 2S3P configured for a 6600mah pack. Now it is possible to make a 8800 pack using a 1S4P configuration to the battery, and for a single LED lamp that's certainly plausible since they need at most 3.3V to drive the LED at maximum current. In fact, I have a XML head/helmet lamp that uses a holder on the back of the mount to hold a pair of individual 18650 cells running in a 1S2P configuration, and in fact will operate with just a single cell in either holder space.

    The problem with all these lights is you basically need to make a testing circuit wire to actually measure the current draw when its running. On LED flashlights this is simple because you can remove the end cap / switch, and then just jump the circuit together with the multimeter touching one lead to the negative terminal of the battery and the other lead to the flashlight body someplace where exposed/unannodized metal is. On one of my single XML flashlights, at full power its drawing 2 Amps, which going off cree's chart for the LED gives about 690 lumens. However I have a supposedly triple XML flashlight that uses two 18650 cells in series, and at MAXIMUM power its pulling a mere 1 amp. With lights with battery packs, you'll need to sacrifice a wire, preferably something like one of the 1 meter extension wires used for helmet setups, cutting it apart, then joining the positive or negative wires back together with an insulated butt connector (so you can't accidently short the battery), and then putting connectors on the other matching wires with enough of a gap. You'll then touch the multimeter leads to these connectors to bridge the circuit and measure the current.
    I don't post to generate business for myself or make like I'm better than sliced bread

  12. #87
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    I ordered one from the OP link. Received it yesterday and after charging the battery for a couple hours. I plug everything together to try out the light. It powered up, cycled through the settings and it worked. Put the battery pack to charge, tried it this morning and the light did not turn on. I email the seller, see what he says. I will dig into the light after work, any suggestions?

  13. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironbrewer View Post
    So the small one I was thinking of getting is this one

    ebay.com/itm/140842626907?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

    but I noticed the voltage is 4.2.
    To eliminate the confusion I took a look at this. Yes, the battery voltage is 4.2 volts. That means the driver is set-up to run on that voltage. The battery itself is listed as 8800mah. Likely four 2.2mAh cells in parallel. Basically this is almost the same as a 7.2 volt 4400mAh battery ( 2S/2P ). The real issue that determines run time is the watt/hr rating and how hard the emitter is being driven. In a nut shell expect it to have the same run time as the 7.2 volt 4400mAh batteries ( all things being equal ...ie...emitter/current level )

    Whether or not this lamp is compatible with a 7.2 volt battery is questionable. Hard to argue with the price.

  14. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by vwchisme View Post
    I ordered one from the OP link. Received it yesterday and after charging the battery for a couple hours. I plug everything together to try out the light. It powered up, cycled through the settings and it worked. Put the battery pack to charge, tried it this morning and the light did not turn on. I email the seller, see what he says. I will dig into the light after work, any suggestions?
    You might have an intermittent short or break in a plug wire. Plug the battery back into the charger to re-set the battery. Then try the light again. If it works then you likely have the issue I suggested.

  15. #90
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    Yeah, I was just going by the picture which looks exactly like (size in pict) a 4.4ah typical battery. An 8.8 ah battery would be twice the size. Hard to tell in a photo tho.

  16. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    To eliminate the confusion I took a look at this. Yes, the battery voltage is 4.2 volts. That means the driver is set-up to run on that voltage. The battery itself is listed as 8800mah. Likely four 2.2mAh cells in parallel. Basically this is almost the same as a 7.2 volt 4400mAh battery ( 2S/2P ). The real issue that determines run time is the watt/hr rating and how hard the emitter is being driven. In a nut shell expect it to have the same run time as the 7.2 volt 4400mAh batteries ( all things being equal ...ie...emitter/current level )

    Whether or not this lamp is compatible with a 7.2 volt battery is questionable. Hard to argue with the price.
    I'll give it a try when i get home tonight, thanks.

  17. #92
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    Thanks for the replies.

  18. #93
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    Anyone looking to order, I see dx.com has an actual MagicShine 872 @ 40% off. Not sure when the sale started or when it will end, but at $25 more than a Chinese knock off, it might be worth it. I probably would have bought this if I hadn't just ordered a cheap 3xml already. I have read that the 872 has overheating problems though. No idea. Around here night riding season is cold so I doubt it would be a problem.

    MagicShine MJ-872 Waterproof 4-CREE XP-G 4-Mode 1600-Lumen LED Bike Light with Battery Pack Set - Worldwide Free Shipping - DX

    Anyways, something to consider...
    Last edited by Mr.Grumpy; 11-01-2012 at 12:06 PM.

  19. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Grumpy View Post
    Anyone looking to order, I see dx.com has an actual MagicShine 872 @ 40% off. Not sure when the sale started or when it will end, but at $25 more than a Chinese knock off, it might be worth it. I probably would have bought this if I hadn't just ordered a cheap 3xml already. I have read that the 872 has overheating problems though. No idea. Around here night riding season is cold so I doubt it would be a problem.

    MagicShine MJ-872 Waterproof 4-CREE XP-G 4-Mode 1600-Lumen LED Bike Light with Battery Pack Set - Worldwide Free Shipping - DX

    Anyways, something to consider...
    I'm not saying the 872 can't work as a bar lamp but judging from previous beam shots the Tri-clone lamp you ordered will have a brighter, farther throwing beam pattern. The only advantage I see with the 872 is that you get a mode set-up that you won't have to cycle through strobe or off.

  20. #95
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    Hey Cat.

    One of the guys that rides with us from time to time has a 872, looks pretty good. But at it's regular price of $130ish, it's not worth it. At only $25 more, it closes that gap compared to the $50 3xml. I'm not saying it's better for light, but it might be better quality...

    Beam shot for MS 872, MS 880, Gemini Olympia
    http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/010...m-test.gif?902

    I'm not getting one, already committed to the Chinese specials!

  21. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    You might have an intermittent short or break in a plug wire. Plug the battery back into the charger to re-set the battery. Then try the light again. If it works then you likely have the issue I suggested.
    Tried your suggestion and no luck getting it to work. I pulled out my multimeter and measured at the battery plug 8.25v. Next I measured at the headlamp switch exposed leads 0v.

  22. #97
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    Just for kicks I'm thinking of trying this out. Already have a MJ-872 on the bars, and a Gemini Duo for the helmet, and the MJ-808E it replaced. I'm using the Geo 6.0Ah battery, and think that will be suitable for this light.

    My question is if it will be noticeably brighter than the MJ-872. Anyone have experience with both of these and can give me a comparison?
    "Got everything you need?"

  23. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by vwchisme View Post
    Tried your suggestion and no luck getting it to work. I pulled out my multimeter and measured at the battery plug 8.25v. Next I measured at the headlamp switch exposed leads 0v.
    So you managed to disassemble the tri-clone(?)! Well, if you did that you might try measuring the continuity of the wires leading from the light head to the battery (male) plug ( since the battery plugs seem to work you need not worry about the battery side ). ). Using the resistance setting on the multlimeter...measure each lead ( positive and negative ) one at a time. If you get zero resistance than the wire is fine. If you get infinite resistance the wire is bad. If one wire is bad it would be best just to replace the whole plug and wire assembly to the light head. If this doesn't fix it than something else is wrong and won't be an easy fix.

    Anyway, is there a way you can show a photo of what you're dealing with? Details on how you got this apart would be great. I've thought about taking mine apart but I won't do that if it still works.

  24. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    So you managed to disassemble the tri-clone(?)!
    I was going to disassemble, but the seller is going to replace the light. Attached is a picture of the area i was measuring for voltage.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-imag0039.1.jpg  

    New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-imag0045.1.jpg  


  25. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by vwchisme View Post
    I was going to disassemble, but the seller is going to replace the light. Attached is a picture of the area i was measuring for voltage.
    Very interesting. So it looks like the pill that holds the driver/switch assembly is attached to the part that has the LED's mounted. Since they both look like they are attached pretty securely it does help explain why the lamp seems to have a good ability to sink heat. Definitely doesn't look like you can access the connections to the driver. At least the seller is going to replace so that is good. All things considered, I think it would of been better to contact the seller first before disassembling the light.

    Anyway, thanks for the photos. At least I know that if something goes wrong with mine trying to fix it by disassembling is pretty much a lost cause unless I could gain access to the driver. Now that I know what the internals look like I know not to try messing with a tear down.

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