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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    OH NO!.......THE DREADED MONO-LED-PER-STEP, LED MODE FUNCTION!.....Pardon me but I don't know what else to call it. Even worse is the fact that they are doing it on a lamp with a reflector set-up designed with cut outs. Without all LED's being lit at the same time ( to fill in the gaps ) there are bound to be aberrations in the beam pattern(s).

    This is like the worst feature you can get in a Chinese made lamp other than it not working at all. When switching modes, change in intensity is one thing, change in beam pattern is quite another!

    To be blunt: This type of mode function should be outlawed unless clearly stated in the product description by the seller. THIS IS NOT TRUE MULTI-EMITTER/ MULTI-MODE FUNCTION as would be commonly expected by anyone buying a bike light or torch.

    The really sad part about all of this is that once the news gets out many people will now not be willing to take a chance buying a multi-emitter Chinese made lamp or torch. The Chinese don't realize it yet but they just shot their entire industry in the foot. If I have any plans to buy other lamps this means I will have to contact the seller before hand to verify "True full-time multi-emitter function".
    Not only will this be difficult but most will probably have no idea what I'm even talking about.

    (* stock tip: shares in all U.S. made bike lights just went up. )
    Well I guess the brighter side to this is that there will be little if any PWM flickering for those who are sensitive to PWM, but still.....yuck!

  2. #27
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    If adding resisters to the first two LEDs is possible, that should help with the mode spacing. It'll reduce total output, but it shouldn't be very noticable. Some of that could probably be gained by increasing the current to the third LED. That doesn't help people that can't or won't mod their own lights though.

  3. #28
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    Mine should show up tomorrow. I'll try to post some pics and ride data. It's that time of year around here

  4. #29
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    Well mine has arrived. Happy to say, out of the box, it works! - which is good. I should be able to test tonight and provide some real world thoughts on this light.

    I purchased this version, which claimed to have a 6400mah battery: 3800 Lum 3x Cree XM-L XML T6 LED HeadLamp Headlight Bicycle Lamp Bike Car Light | eBay

    Though the battery is shrink-wrapped (as expected) so I really have no idea what is in there. First up is a pic of battery and charger, which is the 8.4v/1.0amp charger. Some people complain about the low amp charger but I don't find it a big deal. I've got my original magicshine 1.8amp charger and can use that if I'm in a hurry, or really go at the battery with my R/C charger if I'm in a real hurry.

    Next are some other pics of the headlamp... I am using the mount from my older niterider MiNewt, since it offers a cool removable feature. The adjustable mount attached to the headlamp is the perfect size to fit onto the niterider 'pod' which can then be removed from the helmet baseplate. Very convenient and keeps people from looking at you funny when riding without your light. This mount has also been compatible with my magicshine808, and I'd imagine is compatible with most headlamps of this size.

    The headlamp does weigh a little bit more than my 808, but I don't think I will notice too much. I have mounted the light pretty much centered on the helmet to try to keep it balanced, anyway. Those who mount their lights closer to the front of their helmet may notice the weight more.

    Last, I have some beam shots. (sorry for the bad clarity) Low/Med/Hi - It is as described in the item description, and mentioned in the above posts. The levels coordinate with how many lights are on. low = 1, med = 2, high = 3. Some people have mentioned how this sucks and the beam pattern will change throughout the various levels. I will let you know if it is discernable on the trail. Of note, LOW setting with 1 light on it is the single bottom led. MED setting with 2 lights on are the upper 2 leds. You can see what I am talking about in the pics. This programming may help the beam pattern stay somewhat balanced... we'll see.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-batt_charger.jpg  

    New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-helmet.jpg  

    New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-front.jpg  

    New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-rear.jpg  

    New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-side.jpg  

    New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-low.jpg  

    New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-med.jpg  

    New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-high.jpg  


  5. #30
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    How is the battery connector on your unit. Mine does not stay together and I have to tape it however, I use a GEO 6.0 on it anyhow.

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad andy View Post
    ...Last, I have some beam shots. (sorry for the bad clarity) Low/Med/Hi - It is as described in the item description, and mentioned in the above posts. The levels coordinate with how many lights are on. low = 1, med = 2, high = 3. Some people have mentioned how this sucks and the beam pattern will change throughout the various levels. I will let you know if it is discernable on the trail. Of note, LOW setting with 1 light on it is the single bottom led. MED setting with 2 lights on are the upper 2 leds. You can see what I am talking about in the pics. This programming may help the beam pattern stay somewhat balanced... we'll see.
    Thanks bad andy for the photos...Last night I was speculating on which LED's would light for each of the modes. I am glad to see that at least they picked the right configuration of LEDs for each of the 3 modes. I agree with you, that should help eliminate beam pattern anomalies.

    Dang it, it does look big. I suppose mounting in the center will help keep it balanced. My mount is a little like yours but lower profile. I will likely have to mount it higher than I usual like. Depending on how I like it, if the lamp adds extra throw to to the helmet I might consider other ways to mount it.

    I second the request....what goes with the connectors? Are they working as intended?

  7. #32
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    Well first ride on the light was very successful. I don't know if the battery got a full charge before heading out, I was only able to have it on the charger for a few hours. Plus I don't know how much charge the battery had in it to begin with. I did use the light for about 1.5-2 hours in high last night and it was not hot at all, warm maybe. Ambient temp last night was in the 60s (F) so I guess that means it's fairly under driven? In contrast my 808 was it's usual warmth/semi-hot temp, much hotter in comparison to the 3x XML. I don't know if the switch light indicates battery charge at all, but it did appear sort of green-yellow when I finished the ride. I'll have to monitor that more closely during future rides.

    The beam pattern was great. I don't have much to compare against to determine if it is more spotty/floody but in comparison with the 808 it was just simply overall a bigger lighted area. If it is considered a spot, then it's a huge spot. I can say I had no trouble seeing anything. Especially on high. My buddy was bumming when I told him I paid $60, in comparison to his Niterider setup that cost at least 3x as much. I'll try to shoot some real world pics during future rides.

    I didn't notice the weight on my helmet too much. Though my helmet really fits well to my head. I can get a tight but comfortable fit, so that may help the stability overall.

    The size of the headlamp is a little bigger than my 808. Not tremendously though. I'll try to snap some side by side pics later.

    As for the plugs - I had no problem. They are definitely not as tight as my magicshine cables. These are straight plugs. my MS cables have an extra bump at the connecter to ensure a tighter fit. It felt to me that these cables, while working fine for now, primarily rely on the metal parts' connection vs. the rubber shielding to hold together. If so, future wear might cause this connection to become looser? We'll see. I may explore ways to get a tighter fit. I can be resourceful sometimes

    Overall very pleased so far.

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad andy View Post
    Some people complain about the low amp charger but I don't find it a big deal. I've got my original magicshine 1.8amp charger and can use that if I'm in a hurry, or really go at the battery with my R/C charger if I'm in a real hurry.
    Did you try it with the Magicshine charger?

    My SkyRay looks like it comes with the same charger, same shape and power output, and my SkyRay battery has a plug that is incompatible with my Magicshine charger.

    I was thinking the same thing as you. Instead of charging at 1A, I could charge at 1.8A with the Magicshine charger. It would also mean finding replacement batteries would be easy. I'm disappointed on both counts.

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by leaftye View Post
    Did you try it with the Magicshine charger?

    My SkyRay looks like it comes with the same charger, same shape and power output, and my SkyRay battery has a plug that is incompatible with my Magicshine charger.

    I was thinking the same thing as you. Instead of charging at 1A, I could charge at 1.8A with the Magicshine charger. It would also mean finding replacement batteries would be easy. I'm disappointed on both counts.
    I did actually, but not for an extended period of time. I plugged the new headlamp into the ms charger and it fit fine, and the light in the charger lit up. I am presuming it would charge fine, but I haven't really tested.

  10. #35
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    Thanks for that. I'm sure it'd work.

  11. #36
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    Okay, got mine today. My first impression: For the money I can't complain. At first glance the beam pattern looks wider than I expected. It reminds me of the Bikeray IV a bit only it's brighter on high. Judging from the wall pattern it's not the thrower I was hoping for but should make a pretty good bar lamp. It does appear to have pretty good spill although there are some minor rings towards the outside of the beam pattern. I doubt they will be noticeable in actual use.

    As was already mentioned, the differences in mode output could be better. When in low mode mine has lots of artifacts in the beam pattern along with a slight greenish tint right in the center. Likely won't be too noticeable in actual use but I have yet to use it. When you switch to medium there is a major change and the lamp is very bright. Gone are the imperfections. Little if any change at all when switching to high which is a little disappointing.

    Other things I noticed: I don't think the back comes off as the rear of the light appears seamless. Those little silver things around the back are just dimples that are drilled into the surface of the rear ( for looks I suppose ). The wire exits out the back of the lamp and is quite long. Twice as long as other lamps. If you use this as a bar lamp you will definitely have to coil the wire up to get it out of the way. No wire extension is included and while the wire from the lamp is long it is not long enough to reach from the helmet to your back pack. The plugs are just as the others have said, they are a bit loose but they work. Comparing them to standard plugs the metal sleeve on the male plug is about 3-4mm shorter. For a snugger fit I might wrap some electrical tape around the plastic on the male plug. That should give it a tighter fit.

    After I give it a test spin tonight I'll likely have more to say about it. What I really what to know at this point is how far it will throw on the bars. The Bikeray IV barely got to 100ft. To impress me this lamp will have to have a usable reach to at least 150 ft.
    I'll let you know how it turns out.

  12. #37
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    triple XM-L Clone test run

    Well folks I almost hate to post this because a lot of people aren't going to like it. The thing is, "Catman don't like to lie". That said, I'm very impressed with this lamp. I did notice that while using the low setting that I can detect imperfections in the beam pattern. To be honest though I really did have to LOOK hard to see them. I doubt most people would even notice. Of course once you go up a level all of that goes away. The low mode looks to be about 450-500 lumen to my eyes and does carry quite a ways. The next two levels are very impressive considering how much the lamp cost. While there is not that much difference between mid and high you get a very nice beam pattern. Light goes almost everywhere. Nice wide spill close in and a decent amount of light in the distance. Almost perfect for the bars.

    On my short ride I stopped in a couple places and tried to compare the throw to the Gloworm X2 I was using on the helmet. Although i didn't pace out the distance, I think I can safely say that it throws beyond 100ft. I say that because I really couldn't notice too much difference between the two for how far they were throwing so I suppose that says a lot for the Tri-Clone. If I had to complain about something it would be the mode set-up. The Tri-Clone has no press/hold turn off function. To turn it off you have to cycle through the modes including the flash. While it does have a nice "clicky" button switch it is somewhat of a pain having to cycle through the extra modes.

    On the up side, I have to admit that I really liked the quality of the light coming out the front ( for the upper modes ) There was a particular "Crispness" to the light that I found pleasing. I'm not really sure why that is but it might have something to do with the fact that it is a "reflector based lamp". I found the tint and quality of the light very pleasing to the eye. On the way back I used both lamps and Wow...sure did make an awesome combo!

    Tomorrow I'll try to get a run time test done if I don't do another ride. ( tomorrow will be warmer.. )...

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    I'm very impressed with this lamp.
    Me too.
    I bought mine from
    3800Lm 3X CREE XM-L T6 LED LED Headlight Headlamp Bicycle Bike Light | eBay

    The low mode looks to be about 450-500 lumen to my eyes and does carry quite a ways. The next two levels are very impressive considering how much the lamp cost.
    I measured the battery current draw in my 3x XM-L light:
    1: 0,62A (5W)
    2: 1,67A (13W)
    3: 1,95A (19W)

    From this one can guestimate lumens to:
    600/1400/1800 (or so)


    While there is not that much difference between mid and high you get a very nice beam pattern. Light goes almost everywhere. Nice wide spill close in and a decent amount of light in the distance. Almost perfect for the bars.
    I have so far only done one ride with my 3x XM-L light.
    I mounted it on the bars next to my Magicshine MJ-856 and switched between the lights during the ride.
    I like the 3x XM-L light better!
    It is slightly brighter and have a more pronounced 'hot spot'.

    With a Magicshine MJ-808E as a helmetlight the midlevel on the 3x XM-L light, and the 50% level on the MJ-856, is more then enough light for my type of riding.

    For the price this is an awsome light. The complete light, incl shipping to Sweden, is cheaper then what a MS-battery sells for here in Sweden!



    But I will only use this light for MTB-riding.
    For road riding, and commuting, I will use my, modified, Philips light
    Philips LED bike light - Page 3

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by HakanC View Post

    ....I measured the battery current draw in my 3x XM-L light:
    1: 0,62A (5W)
    2: 1,67A (13W)
    3: 1,95A (19W)

    From this one can guestimate lumens to:
    600/1400/1800 (or so)

    I have so far only done one ride with my 3x XM-L light.
    I mounted it on the bars next to my Magicshine MJ-856 and switched between the lights during the ride.
    I like the 3x XM-L light better!
    It is slightly brighter and have a more pronounced 'hot spot'.

    With a Magicshine MJ-808E as a helmetlight the midlevel on the 3x XM-L light, and the 50% level on the MJ-856, is more then enough light for my type of riding.

    For the price this is an awsome light. The complete light, incl shipping to Sweden, is cheaper then what a MS-battery sells for here in Sweden!....
    I'll be doing doing a current measurement as well. I don't know if I would go as far to say it outputs 1800 lumen but it is bright and compares very well to the duel emitter Gloworm X2. It would be nice if one of the vendors took this lamp and created a "Deluxe" version ( one half amp more current for the high, change the strobe to a slower flash and put it in a sub menu and then include a push/hold off function with memory ) With those added features ( which really are just basic stuff ) I'd pay another $30 to $40.

    As your measurements show there is not too much difference in the current draw between mid level and high. I think if we can get two hours of run time out of the supplied battery on high we've gotten more than our money's worth.

    In the mean time this lamp is a very good value as long as it holds up. For the novice MTB'er looking for an inexpensive bar lamp with a decent output this could be your ticket to ride. Just keep in mind it is a basic "no frills" lamp. Get a MS 808E or Xeccon S-12 for the helmet ( or another spot oriented clone ) and you will have a combo set-up that has the amount of light that others spent 3X as much for.
    Last edited by Cat-man-do; 10-15-2012 at 11:55 AM.

  15. #40
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    edit: found answer regarding mounting

  16. #41
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    Curent output for Tri-Clone

    I tested mine with the supplied battery freshly charged. Here's what I got:

    Low: ....... 0.62 A

    Medium:...2.08 A

    High: .......2.30 A
    Just keep in mind that this doesn't account for voltage sag after the battery has run a while. All things considered, this ain't bad. I'm amazed that the low level is only 0.62A
    I say that because it's pretty bright for only drawing that much current. Believe me if the low output was too low I would of let you know. At that level I'm thinking it might run 12 hrs on low if this is a standard 4400mAh battery. I haven't done a run time test yet on high but my guess is that it should run maybe 2.5hr. On medium maybe 2.75hr. If you own a four cell set-up with premium Panasonic 3100mAh cells maybe over 3hrs.

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    If you own a four cell set-up with premium Panasonic 3100mAh cells maybe over 3hrs.
    Cat-man-do, could I easily make myself such a four cell set-up? Anything else than soldering the cells together?

    Thanks

    Johnnydrz

  18. #43
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    Getting right at 3hrs on high on my 6.0 GEO battery.

    Doesn't really look like 1800 lumens on high. More like 1200 and medium like 900, maybe a bit more.

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnnydrz View Post
    Cat-man-do, could I easily make myself such a four cell set-up? Anything else than soldering the cells together?

    Thanks

    Johnnydrz
    If I were going to make my own pack I'd consider the 18650 holders from BatterySpace. These include a PCB ( on each set ) for protection. I'd use two of these two cell holders, connect them in parallel and use the Panasonic 3400 unprotected cells. They do make a 4-cell version but I like a square pack rather than a long flat pack.

    Option two: Yes, you could solder up your own. Big plus if you know how to do that. Panasonic cells with tabs are available. Even better if you know how to wire up your own *PCB. *BatterySpace sells them as well I believe.

    You might want to check out the DIY forum for more info on how to build your own battery pack.

  20. #45
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    Everyone talks about a 6.0 GEO battery. Im late to the show of lighting and batteries, and not sure if I can wrap my head around all the ins and outs of them.... however generally, people talk about their 6.0 GEO batteries...

    anyhow, if the supplied 4400mA battery that is supplied is kinda 'iffy', and Im hesitant to try to fabricate my own, is there a manufactured alternative thats known as a quality, value battery? (like it seems the magicshine series are to lights?)

  21. #46
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    Thanks Cat-man-do, I'll go with the first option, easier to charge individual cells.

    Cheers,

    Johnnydrz

  22. #47
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    We're having more Indian Summer here in the Bay Area. It was around 80 degrees last night on our ride. I decided to crank this up on a 20 minute climb, no wind ,etc. It didn't get hot. Yeah, it did get warm but never got hot which leads me to believe it's being driven properly and dissipates heat fairly well.

    Just an FYI for you desert nite riders.

    So far no issues w/ this 50 dollar light.

  23. #48
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    I can also chime in on temp. So far on a number of rides in upper 50s/low 60s (F) in the northeast and the light has yet to get hot. Not even really warm. Seems like a very solid performing light so far.

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by milnerpt View Post
    Everyone talks about a 6.0 GEO battery. Im late to the show of lighting and batteries, and not sure if I can wrap my head around all the ins and outs of them.... however generally, people talk about their 6.0 GEO batteries...

    anyhow, if the supplied 4400mA battery that is supplied is kinda 'iffy', and Im hesitant to try to fabricate my own, is there a manufactured alternative thats known as a quality, value battery? (like it seems the magicshine series are to lights?)
    Supposedly some battery packs have good cells in them.

    I'm thinking I'd rather buy a 4 cell PCB from batteryspace and put together a battery pack with 26650 cells. The downside is having to buy half a dozen PCB's to meet the minimum order requirement.

  25. #50
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    Hey Milnerpt

    The batteries we speak of, GEO are replacement batteries for a recall from early Magicshine lights sold by GEOMANGEAR. GEO is out of business but he orchestrated a recall of a potentially dangerous battery.

    GEO offered a replacement 4.4ah battery which was taking a year to get so he offered a better 6.0ah battery for $25 which was a real good deal as this battery is a good quality battery. The retail on this battery was 85 and that's probably what you would pay for a good quality real 6.0ah battery.

    At this point, if I were you, I would simply use the supplied battery and maybe buy another on Ebay, $18 if you need any more run time. I would not go out and pay 85 for a battery for a cheap light system though this light seems to work real well.

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