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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by mb323323 View Post
    At this point, if I were you, I would simply use the supplied battery and maybe buy another on Ebay, $18 if you need any more run time. I would not go out and pay 85 for a battery for a cheap light system though this light seems to work real well.
    The battery pack is compatible with other light systems. An adapter or new plugs will increase compatibility. So a good battery pack can be a better value. Even if it's not used with other lights, I think the battery is the most important part of the light system, at least with the way I ride.

  2. #52
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    Well, my P7 Magicshine lighthead/charger does not fit into the 3xXM-L battery. The MS plug is a little bit too wide.

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by mb323323 View Post
    Getting right at 3hrs on high on my 6.0 GEO battery.

    Doesn't really look like 1800 lumens on high. More like 1200 and medium like 900, maybe a bit more.


    I did a lux comparison yesterday and I have to agree, it is not anything like 1800 lumen.
    I compared it to my Gloworm X2 and surprisingly both out put almost the same amount of light. Keep in mind a lux read out is not the same thing as lumen read out but it helps when doing basic comparisons.

    When I get a chance I'm going to do a lux reading from 45į off camber. This should help me judge how well the lamps compare as to total flood and spill. Just judging from what my eyes are seeing, with the Gloworm using spot/flood set-up the beam patterns are almost the same.

  4. #54
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    I did another quickie ride tonight using the tri-clone as a bar light. Basically works pretty good as far as supplying a decent amount of light. Was having some problems with some of the lamps minor features. Changing modes with the Tri-clone on the bars is not the easiest thing to do. I hate having to cycle through all the extra modes ( flash and off ) Either that or I must be spoiled from using my Gloworm X2 with remote. One thing is certain, next ride is Gloworm on the bars.

    Another issue I had was that the bar mount screw had gotten a bit too loose while I was riding. While on the ride the lamp kept swiveling towards the right which was kind of a nuisance. On the plus side it means you can adjust the lamp angle a bit if you chose to do so. When I got home I tightened it up so it shouldn't move anymore ( unless I want it to ).

    Just before leaving for the ride I had a problem with the battery bag. Once again it seems the Chinese don't think that the battery bag is so important. I say that because I've had this same problems with other Chinese made bike set-ups. Namely, the strap buckles on the battery bags are VERY poorly attached. If you tighten them real tight the buckle strap will pull right off the bag ( or the plastic buckle itself will break ). Not the kind of thing you want to happen if you're mounting the battery somewhere back in the woods. Luckily for me I had another piece of Velcro attached to my helmet that usually holds my helmet torch. Since I was running the Xeccon X-12 on the helmet I didn't need the velcro so I took it off and found a way to make it hold the battery bag to the upper tube. Dang, I hate when stuff like this happens ( just before it starts to get dark )

    For the record: If you have a battery bag from a Chinese manufacture that uses the plastic buckles you might want to carry a 12" length of Velcro with you, just in case. I had the same thing happen with a Bikeray battery bag. At least the BR bag had a wider/longer length of Velcro on it that allowed me to wrap the strap around the whole battery bag even after the buckle broke. I've also had the velcro buckle straps break on the cheap rubber torch mounts...yep stuff happens.

  5. #55
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    Cat, I'm sure you're already familiar with these, but I'll post them for those that aren't.

    I've recently bought a few of the bags from Action LED. They aren't the highest quality, but they're cheap as hell, and they do have two straps and the straps are longer.
    The battery stays in place on my frame much better then with the stock battery bags.

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    I hate having to cycle through all the extra modes ( flash and off )
    Having off in the regular mode cycle shouldn't exist in a bike light. That should require a longer button press, another button, or some other way to access it. A light should not turn off on the way to the high mode.

  7. #57
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    MB, Cat, Bad Andy, HankanC

    Thanks for the great information.

    So how are the runtimes with this light? 4400ah/6400ah battery? Other than post 8, has anyone done some beam shot comparisons? Low, medium, high and compared to other lights you have? I'm thinking of ordering two, one for the bar and one for the helmet. Might be heavy, but it's probably better than the NR Storm that I've used as a helmet light for the past 10 or so years. Also, itís my understanding that the Magicshine cables/chargers and batteries appear to be compatible. Am I safe to assume that the MS extension cable will work to extend the length from helmet to jersey pocket?

    Looks at this one on ebay.

    4000 Lm 3x CREE XM-L T6 LED Bicycle bike HeadLight Rear Light Headlamp Lamp 25W | eBay

    And I agree, itís a shame they havenít figured out the button sequence. Push and hold for two seconds to power off, button clicking for low med and high and perhaps press and hold for five for strobe. Though, for $50 a light, I think it will be hard to complain.

    Thanks!
    Last edited by Mr.Grumpy; 11-01-2012 at 11:00 AM.

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Grumpy View Post
    MB, Cat, Bad Andy, HankanC

    Thanks for the great information.

    So how are the runtimes with this light? 4400ah/6400ah battery? Other than post 8, has anyone done some beam shot comparisons? Low, medium, high and compared to other lights you have? I'm thinking of ordering two, one for the bar and one for the helmet. Might be heavy, but it's probably better than the NR Storm that I've used as a helmet light for the past 10 or so years. Also, itís my understanding that the Magicshine cables/chargers and batteries appear to be compatible. Am I safe to assume that the MS extension cable will work to extend the length from helmet to jersey pocket?

    Looks at this one on ebay.

    ebay.ca/itm/4000-Lm-3x-CREE-XM-L-T6-LED-Bicycle-bike-HeadLight-Rear-Light-Headlamp-Lamp-25W-/271072209045?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item3f1d29a895#ht_8620wt_914]4000 Lm 3x CREE XM-L T6 LED Bicycle bike HeadLight Rear Light Headlamp Lamp 25W | eBay

    And I agree, itís a shame they havenít figured out the button sequence. Push and hold for two seconds to power off, button clicking for low med and high and perhaps press and hold for five for strobe. Though, for $50 a light, I think it will be hard to complain.

    Thanks!
    Sorry I can't help on most counts here. My rides are generally under 2 hours, and am only turning the lights on when it gets dark enough. No beam shot comparison's either. My MS808 is the p7 model and I've put the wide angle lense in there. That would be like comparing apples and tuna fish sandwiches. It does appear all my MS gear is compatible with this light, though I've stuck to keeping each's battery with charger combo together, for now. My MS extension cable fits too, though is of no need. There's plenty of cable hanging off the lamp and battery that I can stash the battery in my backpack. As for the light you linked to on eBay... I will be able to chime in on that one too - as soon as I've gotten mine. I've been a little nuts this year buying the chinese knockoffs. If this one is as good as the other 3x I have I'll be happy. If it's better I'll be ecstatic. 8)

  9. #59
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    Hey Grumpy

    Before you think they are all compatible, they are actually not all compatible. I tried the clone 3 XML light head w/ a new MS battery and the connectors were different even though they look similar. The clone connectors do all appear to be the same as my clones are compatible.

    As far as run time, I haven't tried the supplied battery yet but I am consistently running around 3 hours on high w/ a 6.0 GEO battery which is a better quality battery I'm sure. I'd guess a 2hr run time to be safe. Maybe Cat has tested this.

    I would not use this on the helmet. It's just a bit too heavy and the smaller 1 XML is plenty w/ a spot beam along w/ this. By the way, medium is probably all anybody will really ever need w/ the helmet clone on high.

    MB

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by mb323323 View Post
    ....As far as run time, I haven't tried the supplied battery yet but I am consistently running around 3 hours on high w/ a 6.0 GEO battery which is a better quality battery I'm sure. I'd guess a 2hr run time to be safe. Maybe Cat has tested this...

    MB
    I haven't tested it yet but ball-parking the run time I would think 2hrs or just under. If it gets over 2hr on high I would be thrilled. Maybe this weekend I'll give it test run. For the record, doing battery run time tests are a drag.

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by bad andy View Post
    Well mine has arrived. Happy to say, out of the box, it works! - which is good. I should be able to test tonight and provide some real world thoughts on this light.

    I purchased this version, which claimed to have a 6400mah battery: 3800 Lum 3x Cree XM-L XML T6 LED HeadLamp Headlight Bicycle Lamp Bike Car Light | eBay

    Though the battery is shrink-wrapped (as expected) so I really have no idea what is in there. First up is a pic of battery and charger, which is the 8.4v/1.0amp charger. Some people complain about the low amp charger but I don't find it a big deal. I've got my original magicshine 1.8amp charger and can use that if I'm in a hurry, or really go at the battery with my R/C charger if I'm in a real hurry.

    Next are some other pics of the headlamp... I am using the mount from my older niterider MiNewt, since it offers a cool removable feature. The adjustable mount attached to the headlamp is the perfect size to fit onto the niterider 'pod' which can then be removed from the helmet baseplate. Very convenient and keeps people from looking at you funny when riding without your light. This mount has also been compatible with my magicshine808, and I'd imagine is compatible with most headlamps of this size.

    The headlamp does weigh a little bit more than my 808, but I don't think I will notice too much. I have mounted the light pretty much centered on the helmet to try to keep it balanced, anyway. Those who mount their lights closer to the front of their helmet may notice the weight more.

    Last, I have some beam shots. (sorry for the bad clarity) Low/Med/Hi - It is as described in the item description, and mentioned in the above posts. The levels coordinate with how many lights are on. low = 1, med = 2, high = 3. Some people have mentioned how this sucks and the beam pattern will change throughout the various levels. I will let you know if it is discernable on the trail. Of note, LOW setting with 1 light on it is the single bottom led. MED setting with 2 lights on are the upper 2 leds. You can see what I am talking about in the pics. This programming may help the beam pattern stay somewhat balanced... we'll see.
    Well I just purchased this, hope it works as my first foray into night riding...........thanks for the review...........
    Master of Nothing, but dammit if I don't try..............

  12. #62
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    Thanks for the replies.

    The only reason I asked about the MS compatibility is for additional cable length. I've only so far found MS cables as an extension. Whatever light I get that I run on the helmet it will have to be long enough to go from the helmet to a jersey pocket, not a backpack/camel-back.

    Perhaps I'll try one of those mini cree things floating around for the helmet and this 3x Cree on the bar.

    Mini CREE LED XML XM-L T6 LED 1600Lm Bicycle Light Bike Lamp HeadLight headLamp | eBay

    Do these knock off light connectors have a name or type? I know RC land has mini deans, deans, bullet, xt60 etc.

    Thoughts?
    Thanks!
    Last edited by Mr.Grumpy; 11-01-2012 at 11:02 AM.

  13. #63
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    Hey Cat.

    Maybe this weekend I'll give it test run. For the record, doing battery run time tests are a drag
    Ya, I would think so! How about a photocell wired in to a plug with a digital clock attached. Record the time you turn the light on, face it at the photocell and go watch a movie(perhaps LOTR extended). When the light burns out the photocell switches the plug on and the timer begins. When you return (assuming the light ran dry) take note of the blinking time on the digital clock. Do some math and it should be a good unattended test for run time.

    Thoughts?

    If I recall, some digital clocks flash 12 forever while some flash but advance the time.

    I'm sure there are better tools but this could be done for cheap!

  14. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Grumpy View Post
    ... How about a photocell wired in to a plug with a digital clock attached
    I think I've got a better solution than that. Pick up a low end Canon point and shoot that is CHDK compatible. CHDK is an alternative firmware, loaded from the card when the camera is tuned on, if the "lock" on the SD card is tuned on. I got a "last year's model" camera for $60. Even full price they are $80ish.

    CHDK has a host of features. One of them is an intervalometer script. You set how often you want it to take a pic. You could either turn on the time/date stamp in the picture or use the file date/time as your reference. Set the script to shoot every minute or 30 sec, and to run for say 4 hrs. You could flip through the pics and see when the light went out. It could also be useful in those temperature monitoring setups, if the readout was in the picture.

    Maybe the Motion script might be better. When something changes in the camera's field of view, it takes a pic. You can set the sensitivity. I'd bet it would note when the light dimmed down, and probably even when the colours change on the back button. I think I'm gonna have to try it to see how well it works. On some of the faster cameras people even use it to take pictures of lightening.

    CHDK is a little geeky, and not exactly intuitive. It gives you a ridiculous amount of control, and extra features on a bottom end point and shoot.

    I used the motion script when my elderly cat was reaching the end of her days. I set it to watch her dish to see if/how often she drank or ate. Of course because the camera would make a noise whenever it focused and took a picture, I got many of her looking right into the lens. Brings tears to my eyes just thinking about it. But it did work very well.

  15. #65
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    Runtime test can be less of a pain when using a video camera on low resolution mode - Colleen does this too. It saves time doing runtime test.

    Use any camera with video mode or GoPro type cameras. Set it to low res because that will require less memory. A decent SD card should get you over 4 hours on low res.

    Set the camera behind the light head so you can see the switch/indicator button, with a clock off angle in front of a fan set about a foot away from the light head. You may have the temperature/lux reader on the other side of the clock - all within the video frame.

    Check the time. Turn on the temp/lux reader. Start recording. Turn on the light and fan. Go watch TV, sign in to mtbr or go to sleep.

    Replay the video. While holding down the video player marker, dragging it forward and backward will tell:
    - lux reading from start to finish
    - temperature rise rate and temperature plateau
    - thermal shutdown (and restart time if any) if no airflow was introduced
    - at what times the indicator changed colors
    - whether there was thermal stepdown or brightness change (drag the marker right to left and back again if you do not have a lux meter. You will catch variations better this way)
    - and the time the light went off

    Leonard
    Leonard - All things Xeccon + Beyond
    mtbRevolution.com

  16. #66
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    Ian_C and Xeccon.

    Both very good points. Also a laptop/workstation with a webcam will do!

  17. #67
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    I'm looking for a bike light (my first one eheh) as the winter as arrived and days are now shorter... I will be riding mainly in the street with some cars and some off road as well, but nothing like mountain biking all alone into the deep woods.
    Having said that, does this light works for me? I've read through the 3 pages already and i see HakanC does not recommends this for road biking. So, HakanC, do you think i can mod this light to adjust it to road biking? User Infinity123 posted on another topic he modded it not to blind people:
    gratisimage.dk/image-48C7_508A7582.jpg
    I think i will do the same as i will have only this light for now.

    One more thing: it is not waterproof right? Neither is the battery case, right? If i do get this lamp should i put the battery case inside a water balloon (those little ones) like i've read somewhere?

    Thank you all, this forum has really helped me out.

  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by PedroDank View Post
    One more thing: it is not waterproof right? Neither is the battery case, right?
    The light head is pretty Waterproff. The batterypack is not. I have wrapped it in a plastic bag and taped it shut. But there are of course other ways to deal with this matter.



    Hereīs a little info on the cap on my light:
    Commuting lights - Mtbr Forums



    Quote Originally Posted by PedroDank View Post
    Do you use the original battery? If so, for how long does this thing run on medium. Also, do you ride in the rain?
    Q1: Yes, Q2: I donīt know (2-3 hours?), Q3: No

  19. #69
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    Thanks Infinity123!
    I guess I've now found my bike light. Will try to add a cap like that too. Shouldn't it be reflective, though? I see you made it out of a plastic bag...

    Also, anyone with this wide angle lens? action-led-lights.com/collections/accessories/products/wide-angle-lens ?

    Going to buy the bike light from ebay.com/itm/3X-CREE-XM-L-T6-LED-3800Lm-LED-Headlight-Headlamp-Bicycle-Bike-Light-/251152598491?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a79dc85db in 3 or 4 days.

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by PedroDank View Post
    Shouldn't it be reflective, though? I see you made it out of a plastic bag...
    Sure, if you want to. The white plastic works fine for me.

    Iīm not sure the wide angle lens would work in a 3x LED design? However, you donīt need it. The 3X XM-L has a lovely floody light.
    Could you please use the "link" or "picture" button when you post a link/picture in a message? It would make it a lot easier for the rest of us, thanks.

  21. #71
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    Yeah, they probably would not. I just saw a lot of pics of users modifying their MS with these wide angle lenses and the result is jut amazing. See here: forums.mtbr.com/8859193-post1.html But if you say it is good enough for commuting... Also, with this wide angle lens, i guess it would hurt pedestrians and drivers eyes, right? Anyway, i will how it is first and will decide later, after some tests ,if i need to mod it or not (adding the cap).
    About the images and links, I would if i could. :\ I dont have 10 posts yet, that is why i cant post links and images...

    Anyone else using this kind of cap? If i do decide to make one, i think it would be better to cover the inside of the plastic with an aluminum foil... At least the light won't be "lost"...

    I hope i get it right at the first time, because i can't really spend that much on bike lights now. :P
    Last edited by PedroDank; 10-29-2012 at 08:57 AM.

  22. #72
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    Hey!

    So I've ordered two different systems and I'll report back once I receive them. I'll try and do some testing/beam shots but we'll see!

    4000 Lm 3x CREE XM-L T6 LED Bicycle bike HeadLight Rear Light Headlamp Lamp 25W | eBay

    Mini CREE LED XML XM-L T6 LED 1600Lm Bicycle Light Bike Lamp HeadLight headLamp | eBay
    Last edited by Mr.Grumpy; 11-01-2012 at 11:04 AM.

  23. #73
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    Hey Grump

    Really curious about that mini. Maybe you can post a pict next to the 3XML to see size difference.

    Beam shot would be great too.

  24. #74
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    Mb,

    Will do what I can. Now the wait... 2ish weeks to land.

    Only three more posts and I can post links and pictures. How exciting!

  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Infinity123;9825965 The white plastic works fine for me.

    [IMG
    http://www.gratisimage.dk/image-48C7_508A7582.jpg[/IMG]

    .
    Infinity...I like the white hood for the tri-clone. I know you made this for road use ( right? ) but I think it will help when Mt. biking too. I've noticed that the Tri-clone sends a lot of light upward into the trees. Too much in my opinion. You might try lining the underside of the hood with some aluminum foil as that may return more of the light back down towards the trail. I might try my hand at this as well to see how well it might work.

  26. #76
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    I've ordered 2 of these lights, and I also intend to try some type of "hood" to control the beam. Please continue posting your results with these types of mods, I find this very interesting!

    Johnnydrz

  27. #77
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    I've been watching this thread. I just don't have $250 or $300 for a lighting system right now. I've been looking at a mini light for a headlamp that supposedly has an 8800 maH battery pack. I figure if I get one of the XM-L x3 clones I could switch batteries and have a bit longer life. I can't post a link to the light yet though.

    What do ya think.

  28. #78
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    Hey Ironbrewer.

    You can't post links until you've posted ten times. Hint, if you drop the www from the link, you can, they just aren't clickable. As for if the battery is compatible, assuming the voltage is the same, the only problem I can see is if the connector is the same.

  29. #79
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    I'm not so sure about a 8800mah battery pack (at 8.4v). If it's a typical 4 cell pack (most are), then it is realistically 4400mah, or sometimes 5200mah (but unlikely for a Chinese cell pack).

  30. #80
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    So the small one I was thinking of getting is this one

    ebay.com/itm/140842626907?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

    but I noticed the voltage is 4.2.

    The XM-L 3x I want to get is this one

    ebay.com/itm/261115431796?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

    So I guess the batteries won't be compatible.

    I figure having the small one on my helmet and the big one on my bars will be a good combination.

  31. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by qdave View Post
    I'm not so sure about a 8800mah battery pack (at 8.4v). If it's a typical 4 cell pack (most are), then it is realistically 4400mah, or sometimes 5200mah (but unlikely for a Chinese cell pack).
    Exactly. I really don't understand that 8800mAh battery... I did found a 6400mAh though, but never 8800mAh. I'm going to order it anyway...

  32. #82
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    I don't even think they understand sometimes what they are advertising. Yeah, that is a standard 4400mah pack. Don't expect anything else.

    Cat or others, my clone 3 up is doing something weird. It works, no problem but when I turn it up from low to medium, I can see one of the LED's is bright and the other dim for a few seconds. Then the other LED brightens up as well. Only does this on medium.

    What do you think the issue might be. I was hoping to get at least a season out of this. Still works though.

    MB

  33. #83
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    Isn't it possible that it's an eight cell battery to get 8800mah? Basically two 4400 mah packs wired in parallel? What is the operating voltage on these lights? I saw the amp usage earlier in the thread and the chargers are all 8.4 volts. RC two cell batteries if I recall are 7.4 volts but charge at 8.4. Are these batteries the same? If the lights are running at 7.4 volts operational, buy some RC two cells hardcase batteries from hobbyking throw in a better charger (balancing) and you are laughing. Turnigy batteries have served me well!

    Turnigy 5200mAh 2S 30C Hard-Case Car Lipo Pack (USA Warehouse)
    IMAX B6 Charger/Discharger 1-6 Cells (GENUINE)

    Cat
    Low: ....... 0.62 A
    Medium:...2.08 A
    High: .......2.30 A

    HakanC
    0,62A (5W)
    2: 1,67A (13W)
    3: 1,95A (19W)
    Last edited by Mr.Grumpy; 11-01-2012 at 10:58 AM.

  34. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by mb323323 View Post
    ....Cat or others, my clone 3 up is doing something weird. It works, no problem but when I turn it up from low to medium, I can see one of the LED's is bright and the other dim for a few seconds. Then the other LED brightens up as well. Only does this on medium.

    What do you think the issue might be. I was hoping to get at least a season out of this. Still works though.

    MB
    Well at least it still works. It could be something as simple as a bad soldered joint on one of the wires going to the emitter. When it heats up it expands and makes better contact. That's just one possibility.

    I'm still trying to figure out how you noticed that. Not real easy to look into the front of one of these lamps when they're on. Then again I noticed one time that a single die on a P-7 emitter had gone out on one of my torches. That was on low mode though with a half dead battery.

    I'm laughing now because I just got finished testing mine by using some dark yellow paper as a filter. Now I'm seeing spots in front of my eyes.

  35. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironbrewer View Post
    I've been watching this thread. I just don't have $250 or $300 for a lighting system right now. I've been looking at a mini light for a headlamp that supposedly has an 8800 maH battery pack. I figure if I get one of the XM-L x3 clones I could switch batteries and have a bit longer life. I can't post a link to the light yet though.

    What do ya think.
    Hey. The one you linked looks like the typical magic shine clone with a blue casing and hopefully a higher capacity battery. Won't know until you try it. For the helmet I went with the following eBay item.

    Mini CREE LED XML XM-L T6 LED 1600Lm Bicycle Light Bike Lamp HeadLight headLamp | eBay

    For the bars I went with the same 3x xml light you linked to, same seller (rabbit).

    I should see them in a couple of weeks and ill report back! So, if you can wait...
    Last edited by Mr.Grumpy; 11-01-2012 at 10:57 AM.

  36. #86
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    The 6400mah packs you see advertised...don't exist...not on lights at that price level... Panasonic now has a 3200mah 18650 cell, but they cost like $10 EACH retail. You're not going to find a battery pack with 4 of them on a $50 buy-it-now light. Those batteries are the standard 4400mah ones practically everyone uses because the 2200mah cells are ridiculously cheap and common now. The battery that magicshine uses with the 880 lamp is 6 of those cells as 2S3P configured for a 6600mah pack. Now it is possible to make a 8800 pack using a 1S4P configuration to the battery, and for a single LED lamp that's certainly plausible since they need at most 3.3V to drive the LED at maximum current. In fact, I have a XML head/helmet lamp that uses a holder on the back of the mount to hold a pair of individual 18650 cells running in a 1S2P configuration, and in fact will operate with just a single cell in either holder space.

    The problem with all these lights is you basically need to make a testing circuit wire to actually measure the current draw when its running. On LED flashlights this is simple because you can remove the end cap / switch, and then just jump the circuit together with the multimeter touching one lead to the negative terminal of the battery and the other lead to the flashlight body someplace where exposed/unannodized metal is. On one of my single XML flashlights, at full power its drawing 2 Amps, which going off cree's chart for the LED gives about 690 lumens. However I have a supposedly triple XML flashlight that uses two 18650 cells in series, and at MAXIMUM power its pulling a mere 1 amp. With lights with battery packs, you'll need to sacrifice a wire, preferably something like one of the 1 meter extension wires used for helmet setups, cutting it apart, then joining the positive or negative wires back together with an insulated butt connector (so you can't accidently short the battery), and then putting connectors on the other matching wires with enough of a gap. You'll then touch the multimeter leads to these connectors to bridge the circuit and measure the current.
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  37. #87
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    I ordered one from the OP link. Received it yesterday and after charging the battery for a couple hours. I plug everything together to try out the light. It powered up, cycled through the settings and it worked. Put the battery pack to charge, tried it this morning and the light did not turn on. I email the seller, see what he says. I will dig into the light after work, any suggestions?

  38. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironbrewer View Post
    So the small one I was thinking of getting is this one

    ebay.com/itm/140842626907?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

    but I noticed the voltage is 4.2.
    To eliminate the confusion I took a look at this. Yes, the battery voltage is 4.2 volts. That means the driver is set-up to run on that voltage. The battery itself is listed as 8800mah. Likely four 2.2mAh cells in parallel. Basically this is almost the same as a 7.2 volt 4400mAh battery ( 2S/2P ). The real issue that determines run time is the watt/hr rating and how hard the emitter is being driven. In a nut shell expect it to have the same run time as the 7.2 volt 4400mAh batteries ( all things being equal ...ie...emitter/current level )

    Whether or not this lamp is compatible with a 7.2 volt battery is questionable. Hard to argue with the price.

  39. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by vwchisme View Post
    I ordered one from the OP link. Received it yesterday and after charging the battery for a couple hours. I plug everything together to try out the light. It powered up, cycled through the settings and it worked. Put the battery pack to charge, tried it this morning and the light did not turn on. I email the seller, see what he says. I will dig into the light after work, any suggestions?
    You might have an intermittent short or break in a plug wire. Plug the battery back into the charger to re-set the battery. Then try the light again. If it works then you likely have the issue I suggested.

  40. #90
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    Yeah, I was just going by the picture which looks exactly like (size in pict) a 4.4ah typical battery. An 8.8 ah battery would be twice the size. Hard to tell in a photo tho.

  41. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    To eliminate the confusion I took a look at this. Yes, the battery voltage is 4.2 volts. That means the driver is set-up to run on that voltage. The battery itself is listed as 8800mah. Likely four 2.2mAh cells in parallel. Basically this is almost the same as a 7.2 volt 4400mAh battery ( 2S/2P ). The real issue that determines run time is the watt/hr rating and how hard the emitter is being driven. In a nut shell expect it to have the same run time as the 7.2 volt 4400mAh batteries ( all things being equal ...ie...emitter/current level )

    Whether or not this lamp is compatible with a 7.2 volt battery is questionable. Hard to argue with the price.
    I'll give it a try when i get home tonight, thanks.

  42. #92
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    Thanks for the replies.

  43. #93
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    Anyone looking to order, I see dx.com has an actual MagicShine 872 @ 40% off. Not sure when the sale started or when it will end, but at $25 more than a Chinese knock off, it might be worth it. I probably would have bought this if I hadn't just ordered a cheap 3xml already. I have read that the 872 has overheating problems though. No idea. Around here night riding season is cold so I doubt it would be a problem.

    MagicShine MJ-872 Waterproof 4-CREE XP-G 4-Mode 1600-Lumen LED Bike Light with Battery Pack Set - Worldwide Free Shipping - DX

    Anyways, something to consider...
    Last edited by Mr.Grumpy; 11-01-2012 at 11:06 AM.

  44. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Grumpy View Post
    Anyone looking to order, I see dx.com has an actual MagicShine 872 @ 40% off. Not sure when the sale started or when it will end, but at $25 more than a Chinese knock off, it might be worth it. I probably would have bought this if I hadn't just ordered a cheap 3xml already. I have read that the 872 has overheating problems though. No idea. Around here night riding season is cold so I doubt it would be a problem.

    MagicShine MJ-872 Waterproof 4-CREE XP-G 4-Mode 1600-Lumen LED Bike Light with Battery Pack Set - Worldwide Free Shipping - DX

    Anyways, something to consider...
    I'm not saying the 872 can't work as a bar lamp but judging from previous beam shots the Tri-clone lamp you ordered will have a brighter, farther throwing beam pattern. The only advantage I see with the 872 is that you get a mode set-up that you won't have to cycle through strobe or off.

  45. #95
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    Hey Cat.

    One of the guys that rides with us from time to time has a 872, looks pretty good. But at it's regular price of $130ish, it's not worth it. At only $25 more, it closes that gap compared to the $50 3xml. I'm not saying it's better for light, but it might be better quality...

    Beam shot for MS 872, MS 880, Gemini Olympia
    http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/010...m-test.gif?902

    I'm not getting one, already committed to the Chinese specials!

  46. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    You might have an intermittent short or break in a plug wire. Plug the battery back into the charger to re-set the battery. Then try the light again. If it works then you likely have the issue I suggested.
    Tried your suggestion and no luck getting it to work. I pulled out my multimeter and measured at the battery plug 8.25v. Next I measured at the headlamp switch exposed leads 0v.

  47. #97
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    Just for kicks I'm thinking of trying this out. Already have a MJ-872 on the bars, and a Gemini Duo for the helmet, and the MJ-808E it replaced. I'm using the Geo 6.0Ah battery, and think that will be suitable for this light.

    My question is if it will be noticeably brighter than the MJ-872. Anyone have experience with both of these and can give me a comparison?
    "Got everything you need?"

  48. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by vwchisme View Post
    Tried your suggestion and no luck getting it to work. I pulled out my multimeter and measured at the battery plug 8.25v. Next I measured at the headlamp switch exposed leads 0v.
    So you managed to disassemble the tri-clone(?)! Well, if you did that you might try measuring the continuity of the wires leading from the light head to the battery (male) plug ( since the battery plugs seem to work you need not worry about the battery side ). ). Using the resistance setting on the multlimeter...measure each lead ( positive and negative ) one at a time. If you get zero resistance than the wire is fine. If you get infinite resistance the wire is bad. If one wire is bad it would be best just to replace the whole plug and wire assembly to the light head. If this doesn't fix it than something else is wrong and won't be an easy fix.

    Anyway, is there a way you can show a photo of what you're dealing with? Details on how you got this apart would be great. I've thought about taking mine apart but I won't do that if it still works.

  49. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    So you managed to disassemble the tri-clone(?)!
    I was going to disassemble, but the seller is going to replace the light. Attached is a picture of the area i was measuring for voltage.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-imag0039.1.jpg  

    New clone 3 x XML T-6  49.88 shipped-imag0045.1.jpg  


  50. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by vwchisme View Post
    I was going to disassemble, but the seller is going to replace the light. Attached is a picture of the area i was measuring for voltage.
    Very interesting. So it looks like the pill that holds the driver/switch assembly is attached to the part that has the LED's mounted. Since they both look like they are attached pretty securely it does help explain why the lamp seems to have a good ability to sink heat. Definitely doesn't look like you can access the connections to the driver. At least the seller is going to replace so that is good. All things considered, I think it would of been better to contact the seller first before disassembling the light.

    Anyway, thanks for the photos. At least I know that if something goes wrong with mine trying to fix it by disassembling is pretty much a lost cause unless I could gain access to the driver. Now that I know what the internals look like I know not to try messing with a tear down.

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