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  1. #1
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    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2016

    This is the 2016 lights thread to get quick overview with some basic information to keep it clean and useful.

    I found a nice commuter light @ DX, uses TIR optics and is powered by 3 AAA cells and might be converted to 10440 li-ion/lifepo. No way it has thousands of lumes, but still may be usable for city commuting
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2016-sku_419226_1.jpg  


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    Meh, 1600 lumens (at least) or it's not a light

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    We are used to exaggerated lumen claims Divide by 5-10 and you get the real estimate ...

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    Should have mentioned that I was talking about real OTF 1600 lumens, that's about 2800 chinese lumens
    I reckon this year we will have MTG2 as well as XHP for the first time in bike lights package :P

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    From the product specs.....

    Theoretical Lumens 30lumens
    Actual Lumens 20lumens


    I'm guessing this won't be the next hot seller.

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    Nope, but a commuter light for $5. What power can you expect from 3 AAA

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    It doesn't throw any light to the side. I don't think it would make a good commuter light.
    You'd be invisible side on.

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    A good commuter light needs to be bright enough to see and to be seen. And if it is bright enough it also needs a beam pattern that does not blind other road users (read cut off beam). A light that blinds others is dangerous, and in many places illegal.

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    Ran across this one:



    Looks like a spiker clone. Like the QR mount it has, wish wed see that more or could find mount by itself. Not a bad price though.

    Fandyfire 2 x CREE XM - L2 T6 2000Lm LED Bike Light
    Attached Images Attached Images  

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    How about triple twins
    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2016-sku_418458_2.jpg
    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2016-sku_418458_1.jpg
    Also available in blue color
    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2016-sku_418457_2.jpg

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    Not CREE emitters inside. They are clearly LatticeBright XL leds.

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    Nice find Sirius9. We have to cope with the fact, that these leds are entering the market. I recently bought a car led bulb that was supposed to have a Cree Q5 and I received a bulb with different led.

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    Yes, in the last two years those fake leds are entering to the cheap market more and more. Still think we need to make users aware of it and make a comments each time. It is very easy to overlook that fact. In this particular case DX is not describing leds as Cree but still using XM-L T6 (which are not, correct is only XL) so the buyer can still be missleaded.

    See all LB products: Products-JiangXi Latticebright Corporation
    and XL: XL-JiangXi Latticebright Corporation

  14. #14
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    Well, the market or should I say WE forced this constantly looking to get cheaper and cheaper product, discounts, coupon codes, group buys... That's why the first generation of some light like SRK was best quality and all subsequent generations were just copies with different quality dropping issues.
    What can you expect in 2016: much more holow housings/pills, disappointingly low quality drivers, "UltraFire" level battery packs for lights that come in sets, LaticeBright emitters (because they are cheaper than genuine Cree) ...
    Basically, if you are looking for a good quality light avoid this thread at all costs...

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    Would be nice to see some decent new stuff that isnt so cheap/cheaply made. But your right. People being stupidly cheap (I have been guilty a time or 2) created this mess.

    Only chance is catching new "brands" mostly cause the known cheap brands have already gone this route. Still have hope for nitefighter though and would be nice if yinding created something new since they got it right and still produce decent lights.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sirius9 View Post
    How about triple twins
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    I saw these the other day while skimming through DX. I like the build but the set-up only has a high and low UI. Would of been more interesting if it had used optics and had a better 3-4 mode UI.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sirius9 View Post
    Well, the market or should I say WE forced this constantly looking to get cheaper and cheaper product, discounts, coupon codes, group buys... That's why the first generation of some light like SRK was best quality and all subsequent generations were just copies with different quality dropping issues.
    What can you expect in 2016: much more holow housings/pills, disappointingly low quality drivers, "UltraFire" level battery packs for lights that come in sets, LaticeBright emitters (because they are cheaper than genuine Cree) ...
    Basically, if you are looking for a good quality light avoid this thread at all costs...
    Unfortunately I have to agree with most of what you said. Even so it doesn't mean that buying and using a cheap Chinese lamp can't work. It might have crappy thermal properties, cheap components and knock-off emitters but if it works, provides a decent beam pattern, has a usable UI and a decent battery/Charger it can be a cheap way to enter the sport of "Night Mountain biking". While doubtful you can buy something decent in a complete package, if you know what to buy ( and what not to buy ) you can still get something usable that will work.

    Anyway, the point I'm making is that we talk about this stuff so people ( looking for cheaper options ) might find something that will work. Nevertheless you will always be "rolling the dice" when it comes to buying a cheap Chinese made lamp.

  18. #18
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    Thanks for starting a new thread for 2016. I need a new bar mount flood to pair with my Xeccon S12 Two helmet spot light (a great long throw I found recommended a couple years ago by members in this forum including the cat man if I remember correctly).

    While looking for a new bar flood, I was pooring over the threads again and it sounded like the Nightfighter BT40S was a good option, only I can't seem to find it anywhere. I found a Revtronic BT40S on Amazon but I'm not feeling as confident with that since it could be a crappy clone.

    A lighthead only is totally an option as I already have 2 good battery's from mtbrevolution and a questionable battery that came with the bar light I'm replacing.

    Below is the light I'm replacing.

    http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S021521

    With 2 and 1/2 seasons of heavy use (frequent use at full power; mix of road and bouncy cx & mtb) it is now turning itself off for no good reason. (Unplug from battery, plug back in and it works for a few minutes and then shuts down again; indicator switch lights go out also.) This was a good light, I'm half tempted to buy another one but I'm curious if there is something better now (and more durable). I could also go for an even wider flood if available, since the S12 handles distance so incredibly well.

    So guys, what do you recommend as a bar light (lighthead only) that is currently available in the $50 - $100 range that has a wide/flood beam pattern and decent quality?

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    That Revtronic BT40S is a verified Nitefighter BT40s. NiteFighters name is changing to Revtronic due to copyright infringement. (There's a thread about it with a link over to BLF where "Andy" of Nitefighter posted about it - even posted that he could provide a discount code.)

    Love my BT40s, but mine is heavily modded. In stock form it's good too, but you'll likely be running on Turbo most of the time wishing you had another mode higher.

    -Garry

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    That Revtronic BT40S is a verified Nitefighter BT40s. NiteFighters name is changing to Revtronic due to copyright infringement. (There's a thread about it with a link over to BLF where "Andy" of Nitefighter posted about it - even posted that he could provide a discount code.)

    Love my BT40s, but mine is heavily modded. In stock form it's good too, but you'll likely be running on Turbo most of the time wishing you had another mode higher.

    -Garry
    Thanks Garry, I see that thread now.

    I am not one to modify my lights in any way, I'm a simpleton in that regard.

    I tend to run my lights in the full power mode unless I have reason to conserve battery power, which typically I don't since most of my night rides are right around the 2 - 2.5hr mark and I have yet to run out of battery (knock on wood). The KD I linked above had a good amount of lumen at full power (which wasn't all that brighter than the middle power mode). I know I do not want to go backwards in the lumen department, but I also don't feel I really need more (just wider spread if possible).

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    Well the KD you linked makes about 1200 lumens. Bt40s is about to 1400 with a wider beam angle. I have one of the KD lights too and love it.

    your issue is probably either a bad connection in the battery pack or the battery cable in the light tripping protection and shutting light off.

    Not going to gain durability sticking with cheap lights. 2.5 seasons is pretty good for the price of the lights

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    Quote Originally Posted by JFR View Post
    Thanks Garry, I see that thread now.

    I am not one to modify my lights in any way, I'm a simpleton in that regard.

    I tend to run my lights in the full power mode unless I have reason to conserve battery power, which typically I don't since most of my night rides are right around the 2 - 2.5hr mark and I have yet to run out of battery (knock on wood). The KD I linked above had a good amount of lumen at full power (which wasn't all that brighter than the middle power mode). I know I do not want to go backwards in the lumen department, but I also don't feel I really need more (just wider spread if possible).
    I see action-led-lights.com has last years Gemini Olympia on for $109 for the lamp head only. I know it's touch over your budget but is an honest 1500 lumen flood light. Keep in mind it doesn't have the best thermal step down as it will go from the high setting to low once the thermal steps in. If you climb on the med setting instead of high this shouldn't be a problem. This way you have stepped up in quality and if in the US will have it in your hands in a couple days.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JFR View Post
    Thanks for starting a new thread for 2016. I need a new bar mount flood to pair with my Xeccon S12 Two helmet spot light (a great long throw I found recommended a couple years ago by members in this forum including the cat man if I remember correctly).

    While looking for a new bar flood, I was pooring over the threads again and it sounded like the Nightfighter BT40S was a good option, only I can't seem to find it anywhere. I found a Revtronic BT40S on Amazon but I'm not feeling as confident with that since it could be a crappy clone.

    A lighthead only is totally an option as I already have 2 good battery's from mtbrevolution and a questionable battery that came with the bar light I'm replacing.

    Below is the light I'm replacing.

    http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S021521

    With 2 and 1/2 seasons of heavy use (frequent use at full power; mix of road and bouncy cx & mtb) it is now turning itself off for no good reason. (Unplug from battery, plug back in and it works for a few minutes and then shuts down again; indicator switch lights go out also.) This was a good light, I'm half tempted to buy another one but I'm curious if there is something better now (and more durable). I could also go for an even wider flood if available, since the S12 handles distance so incredibly well.

    So guys, what do you recommend as a bar light (lighthead only) that is currently available in the $50 - $100 range that has a wide/flood beam pattern and decent quality?
    Not a lighthead only but I have this light and it puts out a nice amount of light, Xeccon Spiker 1210. Amazon.com : XECCON SPIKER 1210 Bike 4x1600 Lumen Bicycle Front Head Light : Sports & Outdoors

    You are are already familiar with Xeccon's quality and it is shipped from Amazon here in the USA. $79.00 shipped.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Well the KD you linked makes about 1200 lumens. Bt40s is about to 1400 with a wider beam angle. I have one of the KD lights too and love it.

    your issue is probably either a bad connection in the battery pack or the battery cable in the light tripping protection and shutting light off.

    Not going to gain durability sticking with cheap lights. 2.5 seasons is pretty good for the price of the lights
    Yep, no real complaint for what I got out of the KD. It's a little disappointing, but I understand there is a bit of a gamble the less one spends. Thanks for the BT40s comparison and ideas of what may be the issue with the KD. I'll try it with a different battery and open it up to see what I see. Thanks again.

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    Quote Originally Posted by huckleberry hound View Post
    Not a lighthead only but I have this light and it puts out a nice amount of light, Xeccon Spiker 1210. Amazon.com : XECCON SPIKER 1210 Bike 4x1600 Lumen Bicycle Front Head Light : Sports & Outdoors

    You are are already familiar with Xeccon's quality and it is shipped from Amazon here in the USA. $79.00 shipped.
    Oooh, the Xeccon flood brother to my X12... discounted and with a battery. Thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by indebt View Post
    I see action-led-lights.com has last years Gemini Olympia on for $109 for the lamp head only. I know it's touch over your budget but is an honest 1500 lumen flood light. Keep in mind it doesn't have the best thermal step down as it will go from the high setting to low once the thermal steps in. If you climb on the med setting instead of high this shouldn't be a problem. This way you have stepped up in quality and if in the US will have it in your hands in a couple days.
    Very nice option there. Thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by JFR View Post
    Oooh, the Xeccon flood brother to my X12... discounted and with a battery. Thanks!
    Yes I would think the Spiker 1210 *might combo very well with your S-12. I also think that your other lamp ( the 880 clone ) would of made a good bar light as well. Sad that it began to act up. Might just be an intermittent break in the power lead ( wire ) or a problem with the battery/plug wire. Sometimes these are easy to fix if you can isolate the problem and handle a little DIY.

    What ever lamp you chose to replace the 880 clone with just make sure the next lamp has some throw as well as some flood. The S-12 uses a very narrow beam pattern to achieve the throw it has. It really does need another lamp with decent output / throw to help fill in the dead spots when riding at speed. While it's nice to have a bar lamp with more "close-in" illumination, if you're going to use the S-12 it would be better to sacrifice a little of that flood for a bit more throw. To do that I would recommend something like the duel emitter Yinding or even better a Gloworm X2. I've used the S-12 with a GW X2 ( on the bars _ and found the two to work very well together. *The Spiker 1210 I have no personal experience with but I figure it to provide a beam pattern with a decent flood. I have no idea what kind of throw it may offer though.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Yes I would think the Spiker 1210 *might combo very well with your S-12. I also think that your other lamp ( the 880 clone ) would of made a good bar light as well. Sad that it began to act up. Might just be an intermittent break in the power lead ( wire ) or a problem with the battery/plug wire. Sometimes these are easy to fix if you can isolate the problem and handle a little DIY.

    What ever lamp you chose to replace the 880 clone with just make sure the next lamp has some throw as well as some flood. The S-12 uses a very narrow beam pattern to achieve the throw it has. It really does need another lamp with decent output / throw to help fill in the dead spots when riding at speed. While it's nice to have a bar lamp with more "close-in" illumination, if you're going to use the S-12 it would be better to sacrifice a little of that flood for a bit more throw. To do that I would recommend something like the duel emitter Yinding or even better a Gloworm X2. I've used the S-12 with a GW X2 ( on the bars _ and found the two to work very well together. *The Spiker 1210 I have no personal experience with but I figure it to provide a beam pattern with a decent flood. I have no idea what kind of throw it may offer though.
    I've seen Yinding mentioned in a few threads but none with a link (in the few I've read) or enough model information to know what lamp is really being referenced. Can you please elaborate on that one or provide a link?

    I know what you mean about filling in the X12 a little. I found myself being very picky about the orientation of my bar mount. If the lighthead was bounced to pointing down a little I would get a gap between my far and near light. Bounced up and I would lose some of my near light. It had to be just right and I would find myself making minor adjustments during a ride.

    When adjusted just right the combo was good, among the best on group rides. I've had more than one person ask about my lights, especially the S12.

    I opened up my KD and found the red wire coming in from the battery had been grazed by one of the fastening screws and the casing had been stripped away showing raw wire. I carefully wrapped a tiny strip of electrical tape around the exposed wire and buttoned everything back up. It's been running on high in front of a fan for 2hs straight now. I may be back in business!

    But it's kind of bitter/sweet. I was getting that new toy anticipation for getting a new light. There were some great suggestions made. Thanks again for everybody's replies. You guys are very helpful.

  29. #29
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    There is no need for more info, yinding has only one model of light. And not sure where else besides gearbest carries it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Yes I would think the Spiker 1210 *might combo very well with your S-12. I also think that your other lamp ( the 880 clone ) would of made a good bar light as well. Sad that it began to act up. Might just be an intermittent break in the power lead ( wire ) or a problem with the battery/plug wire. Sometimes these are easy to fix if you can isolate the problem and handle a little DIY.

    What ever lamp you chose to replace the 880 clone with just make sure the next lamp has some throw as well as some flood. The S-12 uses a very narrow beam pattern to achieve the throw it has. It really does need another lamp with decent output / throw to help fill in the dead spots when riding at speed. While it's nice to have a bar lamp with more "close-in" illumination, if you're going to use the S-12 it would be better to sacrifice a little of that flood for a bit more throw. To do that I would recommend something like the duel emitter Yinding or even better a Gloworm X2. I've used the S-12 with a GW X2 ( on the bars _ and found the two to work very well together. *The Spiker 1210 I have no personal experience with but I figure it to provide a beam pattern with a decent flood. I have no idea what kind of throw it may offer though.
    It does have a nice wide flood pattern with a fairly decent throw. Here is the beam shot from the MTBR Light Shootout 2014. It would probably pair well with the S12 that he has.


    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2016-2014-mtbr-tunnel-test-xeccon-spiker-1210-1024x682.jpg

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    There is no need for more info, yinding has only one model of light. And not sure where else besides gearbest carries it.
    Ah, gotchya. I found it at gearbest. A very affordable option. Thanks!

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    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2016-tb25z0acfxxxxamxpxxxxxxxxxx_-739759954.jpg
    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2016-img_6172.jpg
    Picked this guy up for about 13 Singaporean bucks and I'd say she's pretty damn bright

    They say it uses CREE XLamp XM-L2 (2 of them) diodes.

    It does get pretty damn hot at max setting (it has 3 levels and a blinking mode) I'm tempted to try and stuff 2 aluminium rods in there with thermal paste to help with cooling.

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    That would be a "ss x2" clone. And lattice bright emitters. around 500-600 lumens output. Not bad for the cheap price. It getting hot isnt a bad thing, their meant to be used with air flow. Will get really hot if your not moving. That's the nature of any lights like these.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    That would be a "ss x2" clone. And lattice bright emitters. around 500-600 lumens output. Not bad for the cheap price. It getting hot isnt a bad thing, their meant to be used with air flow. Will get really hot if your not moving. That's the nature of any lights like these.
    I can't tell between cree and lattice bright so here's a pic lol
    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2016-img_6177.jpg

    And here's the driver board
    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2016-img_6174.jpg

    What I really like about this light is that it runs off usb power so I can choose how long the battery will last along with being able to charge my phone when I need to using a power bank.

    It still does get pretty warm when I'm moving around, I might look into getting a copper rod to cut to size and stuff inside for heat dissipation. I have already applied thermal paste to the contact surfaces of the LED pill and the casing, helps a little but not enough :/

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    Using a USB power bank to run a light is pretty low on power efficiency.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

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    The first pic before was lattice bright, what ur showing now is cree

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    Using a USB power bank to run a light is pretty low on power efficiency.
    ohwell my 10400mah xiaomi bank does last pretty long for the light and having something I can use to charge my phone or my speaker is also pretty cool :P

    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    The first pic before was lattice bright, what ur showing now is cree
    Oh sweet, so it was actually a cree, that's nice

    something I've noticed was one of the lights were warmer in color than the other, I wonder if this was by design ._.
    Last edited by Razroid; 01-20-2016 at 08:09 PM.

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    Hey everyone, I did my first night ride in the fall and immediately fell in love, using a LBS loaner 2000lumen light. I have been researching various lights and i'm no stranger to china products. Coming from a downhill racing background a light with some good distance output is a must, but being a student going with a knock-off might be the best option for my first lights.

    After reading through the 2015 cheap-o-lights I sent a quote request to Helen Lee of of Blackshadow Technology on alibaba.com for the SolarStorm XT40 thinking thats the unit I plan to use on my helmet, the response I received explained that model has now been replaced with the X6. And after doing more research concluded the X6 has a shorter throw , lessened quality, and overall lower light output then the BL40.

    Next light on my list is the NiteFighter BL40 which seems to be a solid light but is harder to find on alibaba or aliexpress. Being that I'm up in Canada ordering from an American site is ridiculous due to our dollar. My question to all of you is what is my ideal light setup, around 2000 lumens for the helmet and something for the bars? Please let me know what you think.
    -Sean

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    Quote Originally Posted by slhazy View Post
    Hey everyone, I did my first night ride in the fall and immediately fell in love, using a LBS loaner 2000lumen light. I have been researching various lights and i'm no stranger to china products. Coming from a downhill racing background a light with some good distance output is a must, but being a student going with a knock-off might be the best option for my first lights.

    After reading through the 2015 cheap-o-lights I sent a quote request to Helen Lee of of Blackshadow Technology on alibaba.com for the SolarStorm XT40 thinking thats the unit I plan to use on my helmet, the response I received explained that model has now been replaced with the X6. And after doing more research concluded the X6 has a shorter throw , lessened quality, and overall lower light output then the BL40.

    Next light on my list is the NiteFighter BL40 which seems to be a solid light but is harder to find on alibaba or aliexpress. Being that I'm up in Canada ordering from an American site is ridiculous due to our dollar. My question to all of you is what is my ideal light setup, around 2000 lumens for the helmet and something for the bars? Please let me know what you think.
    -Sean
    Being from Canada myself I feel for you trying to find a decent price on a light that isn't crap especially with our joke of a dollar. You been a student I understand how you will have limited funds. What is your max budget?

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    Quote Originally Posted by indebt View Post
    Being from Canada myself I feel for you trying to find a decent price on a light that isn't crap especially with our joke of a dollar. You been a student I understand how you will have limited funds. What is your max budget?
    I figured I wasn't the only one from Canada on this massive forum, but realistically probably spend around $100 for a decent helmet light.

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    Quote Originally Posted by slhazy View Post
    I figured I wasn't the only one from Canada on this massive forum, but realistically probably spend around $100 for a decent helmet light.
    Canada...isn't that the city where they make the ginger ale? ( *snicker* )
    Last edited by Cat-man-do; 01-28-2016 at 11:46 PM. Reason: spelling

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    ^^lol

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    Haha!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    The first pic before was lattice bright, what ur showing now is cree

    Hey tigriss, so to clarify are the second set of photos that Razroid posted (the ones of the emitters, with the "HND-X2-V3" text on them) showing real Creek XM-L U2 emitters? I have a couple of X2's that look identical inside, with the same circuit board inside. They were supposed to have Cree XM-L U2 emitters but I'm wondering if they are something else, Lattice bright or something.

    Mine aren't all that bright, probably less output than my old Magicshine 808 clones which are only a single emitter.

    Thanks!

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    Here's a couple of photos of the emitters.

    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2016-emitter_close.jpg

    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2016-emitter_close2.jpg

    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2016-ssx2_emitters.jpg

    And for fun, a photo of the charger. I think this might be one of the ones that I should toss in the garbage? I would like to test it but I can't figure out how to do it. I have a multimeter but I can't figure out what to set the dial to...yes I'm not exactly an electronics expert ! : )

    New cheap-o Chinese LED bike lights 2016-ssx2_charger.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinB2 View Post
    Here's a couple of photos of the emitters.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Compared with this it looks like a fake.:
    LatticeBright vs. XML RMM_zpsprjrockb.jpg Photo by Denbarrett | Photobucket

    - The Fake-Cree LED Awareness Thread - The new "low" in Budget lights. | BudgetLightForum.com


    Runs out to the garage to check all my lights...

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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinB2 View Post
    And for fun, a photo of the charger. I think this might be one of the ones that I should toss in the garbage? I would like to test it but I can't figure out how to do it. I have a multimeter but I can't figure out what to set the dial to...yes I'm not exactly an electronics expert ! : )
    About leds:- Lattice Bright for shure, no doubt.

    About charger: Set your DMM to 20V DC, plug charger and measure it's voltage output. Inner terminal is positive and outer part is negative.
    If any good you should measure about 8.45V. If over 8.5V you should not use it to charge your packs (unless they have 4.35V cells which they don't)

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    That charger matches my "detonator" as I am calling it now. I keep it around for charging 4.35v cells I have. If you have a properly protected pack its not so bad to use it (ive done it but pack was in a lipo charging safety bag) but I wouldnt if you have another option. Everyt charger I have has been fine except the 2 with Red print, first one I didnt care about and cut the connector off, second one I hung onto for my 4.35v cells (though their damn protection is set at 4.25v so ripped it off 2 of them)

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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinB2 View Post
    Here's a couple of photos of the emitters.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    And for fun, a photo of the charger. I think this might be one of the ones that I should toss in the garbage? I would like to test it but I can't figure out how to do it. I have a multimeter but I can't figure out what to set the dial to...yes I'm not exactly an electronics expert ! : )

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Yup, looks different from mine, mine has tiny dots all over instead of bars

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    Thanks everyone for your help. I will contact the seller and see what they have to say. Ledoman, thanks for the tutorial about how to test the charger. I will certainly test it. I haven't used either of the two and I'll just bin them if they don't match spec. As a matter of fact I have four other chargers that came with my old MS clones that I'll test too while I'm at it and all let you know what I find.

    If i wanted to test battery voltage with the multimeter, would I use the same procedure, using the battery connector?

    Tigriss thanks for the chuckle. I've been charging everything in a steel ammo box ever since I started reading about dodgy chargers and batteries

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    So, I tested all of my chargers. Sure enough, the two with the red letters both put out just over 10 volts. I assume it can be dangerous to use these with the 8.4 volt battery packs they came with?

    Two other chargers tested at 8.46 and 8.47 volts. The battery packs that came with these are still running strong after a couple of seasons.

    The last two chargers show 8.35 volts. Interestingly the battery packs that came with them recently started to shut completely off after about 5-10 minutes of running time. Not sure if that is somehow related to the slightly low voltage outputs of the chargers.

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    The chargers that are 10+volts are the ones ive dubbed "detonators" because if pack protection doesn't cut off charge, the cells will detonate and cause a fire. There's a recent thread on a guy having his condo gutted cause of it.

    The biggest problem right now is no one is filing complaints or forcing refunds from vendors that use those chargers.

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    Well I have informed the vendor of the "fake" LED emitters and out of spec chargers and I've asked for a full refund. We'll see what they say.

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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinB2 View Post
    So, I tested all of my chargers. Sure enough, the two with the red letters both put out just over 10 volts. I assume it can be dangerous to use these with the 8.4 volt battery packs they came with?

    Two other chargers tested at 8.46 and 8.47 volts. The battery packs that came with these are still running strong after a couple of seasons.

    The last two chargers show 8.35 volts. Interestingly the battery packs that came with them recently started to shut completely off after about 5-10 minutes of running time. Not sure if that is somehow related to the slightly low voltage outputs of the chargers.
    I have a box full of chargers and most of mine measure roughly the same as yours; ~8.3 to 8.49 volts dc.

    Now if I did have one that measured ~ 10 volts I would be worried...but...maybe it's possible that the charger has a sensing circuit and will drop the voltage down to 8.4 volts when a large enough load is connected(?) No way to know that for sure though without testing it. To do that you would have to separate the wires on the charger side , bare some wire on both leads and then plug the battery in to test it.

    It in mean time though I wouldn't use a charger measuring 10 volts at the plug unless I knew for sure.

  55. #55
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    No these dont drop voltage, I ran my 4.35v cells all the way up and charger didn't flinch. I have to manually disconnect it if the pack isnt on a known to be good, protection circuit.

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinB2 View Post
    Well I have informed the vendor of the "fake" LED emitters and out of spec chargers and I've asked for a full refund. We'll see what they say.
    I can't wait to hear what they have to say. While you might very well indeed get a full refund I can't help but wonder what may happen when others try to do the same thing.

    They may of course request that you return the item. If they do that tell them to email you a shipping label ( with bar code...print it out and put it on the package ). That way they will have to pay the shipping.

    Going forward if I plan to buy any more cheap Chinese lamps in the future I will either ask their client service about the emitters ( before I order ) or wait till someone else does a review ( and knows what to look for ). Of course if they do a quick switch ( start off with good Cree emitters ) and then change to Latticebright after a month or so, it will have to be one of those things to watch out for.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Now if I did have one that measured ~ 10 volts I would be worried...but...maybe it's possible that the charger has a sensing circuit and will drop the voltage down to 8.4 volts when a large enough load is connected(?) No way to know that for sure though without testing it. To do that you would have to separate the wires on the charger side , bare some wire on both leads and then plug the battery in to test it.

    It in mean time though I wouldn't use a charger measuring 10 volts at the plug unless I knew for sure.
    If you take a look how those chargers are counstructed there is miracle they are working at all. OK, no that bad, but shuerly there is no big inteligence circuit/chips there. And this is one that is actualy 8.47V:


    Review of WJT-0068 2S 1A LiIon

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    I have entered a Paypal dispute with the vendor but after three days I haven't received a response. I guess I'll escalate it to a Paypal claim next, but I don't have a lot of hope as the item wasn't purchased through Ebay and I doubt Paypal will do much about it.

    I haven't named the vendor as I was hoping that we could resolve the issue. I would really like to see them change the description on their website (haha!) or at least stop selling the dangerous chargers. I'm sure most of you already can guess who the vendor is...

  59. #59
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    Vendors have no way of knowing.

    BUT I WILL TELL YOU THAT YOU WONT GET A RESPONSE FROM CHINA ANYTHING RIGHT NOW, CHINESE NEW YEAR. ALL THESE PLACES ARE CLOSED FOR 2 WEEKS.

    Wanted that to stand out before more people say "their ignoring me", holiday started 2 days ago (US time as their ahead of us)

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    ah, yeah good point tigriss, I hadn't thought of that.

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    Chinese New Year should start on Feb. 8th. acc to my knowledge.

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    I have multiple people I talk to over there, holiday has already started, started in the 3rd.

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    Official Chinese New Year 2016 Date, Chinese New Year Calendars from 2016 to 2025
    but there are big differencies with company rules. They can be off work as much as the whole month according to some source:

    "The factory worker will have around one month holiday. All the logistic couriers will also stop in this period."

    Hopefuly logistic is not same as stated, but you can shurely count on two week delay, at least.

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    Just got a Xeccon Spiker 1207 a few days back. I was looking for a new bar-light that put out a good amount of lumens, this seems to have done the trick. I realize this is an older model. Real nice flood, much better than my cygolite, and the light is more white, which makes the cygo seem kind of yellow. I got the bigger battery with it. Battery is bulky, but lighter than the bulk would suggest. Seems to run for about 45 min to an hour on high before the battery light turns blue, indicating 70%. Have run it on a few rides and am definitely happy with the light. Debated going with a smaller/newer light, but figured having more lumens might be nice if I ever ride at night when there's not snow (reflective snow allows us to operate with less lumens than people nightriding in other places). I already have a helmet-light too, so wasn't too worried about the bulkier light. The lumens are great, but I think the flood is even better, very even and wide field of vision/spread.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

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    How much did you pay Jayem?

    Sent from my HM 1S using Tapatalk

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    Definitely NOT the thread for Xeccon Lights lol. This is the "cheap, no name, random chinese lights" thread

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    Quote Originally Posted by indebt View Post
    Being from Canada myself I feel for you trying to find a decent price on a light that isn't crap especially with our joke of a dollar. You been a student I understand how you will have limited funds. What is your max budget?
    Quote Originally Posted by slhazy View Post
    I figured I wasn't the only one from Canada on this massive forum, but realistically probably spend around $100 for a decent helmet light.
    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Canada...isn't that the city where they make the ginger ale? ( *snicker* )
    Still wondering what your thoughts are on a decent light for the coming season?
    Thanks!

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by slhazy View Post
    Still wondering what your thoughts are on a decent light for the coming season?
    Thanks!
    Pretty tough to get what you want in your budget. I mean an honest 2000 lumen helmet light with good throw for $100. Guys like tigris/Cat and a few others if they chimed in could recommend what they perceive as a decent Chinese option but without mods most likely will not have anywhere near the output your looking for. Also seems like a crap shoot on what version of a particular model will be good, or crap, as well as availability and long wait times for your light to actually show up.

    If there was a way to bump up your budget action-led-lights.com have the new Gemini Olympia for 2016. This is an honest 2000lumen light with good throw and has wireless remote which is awesome to have on a helmet light. Pretty sure you would love this light but does come at a cost $199US. If you have good battery's they also have last years Olympia light head only for a touch over $100US.

    Forgot to mention, action-led-lights.com also has some refurbished Gloworm X-2's and battery's that would work and cost you approx. $150US. this would make a good helmet light that is of high quality and two year warranty.

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    I think you need to drop down to the 1,300 to 1,500 lumen range. +/-1300 lumens really is plenty of light! Perhaps wait for the new BT21S model coming in the next few weeks?

    -Garry

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    This one is not exactly new but it's only $8.6 so I thought to mention it here, it's cheap enough to get a few of them just for experimenting purpose >

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  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    I think you need to drop down to the 1,300 to 1,500 lumen range. +/-1300 lumens really is plenty of light! Perhaps wait for the new BT21S model coming in the next few weeks?

    -Garry
    I'm wondering if one of my recommendation's (X-2) was going to be enough output as is any other 1500 or less lumen light for slhazy as his background is racing DH. At that level I would have to say more output the better as long as beam shape is quality because he will be a flyin.

    It would help if he shared what kind of light he borrowed off the LBS I guess as it would give us a starting point.

  72. #72
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    aliexpress for the magicshine MJ906, about 125$ with free shipping

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    Just got a Xeccon Spiker 1207 a few days back. I was looking for a new bar-light that put out a good amount of lumens, this seems to have done the trick. I realize this is an older model. Real nice flood, much better than my cygolite, and the light is more white, which makes the cygo seem kind of yellow. I got the bigger battery with it. Battery is bulky, but lighter than the bulk would suggest. Seems to run for about 45 min to an hour on high before the battery light turns blue, indicating 70%. Have run it on a few rides and am definitely happy with the light. Debated going with a smaller/newer light, but figured having more lumens might be nice if I ever ride at night when there's not snow (reflective snow allows us to operate with less lumens than people nightriding in other places). I already have a helmet-light too, so wasn't too worried about the bulkier light. The lumens are great, but I think the flood is even better, very even and wide field of vision/spread.
    I have the Xeccon Spiker 1207 too. It's a great light. I already had a night ride with it on the handlebars. I have a Serfas True 1000 on my helmet. With those two lights I had plenty of light!

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by slhazy View Post
    Still wondering what your thoughts are on a decent light for the coming season?
    Thanks!
    Do you remember what light you borrowed from your LBS? And was that enough light for you at the speeds you must ride at with your DH racing background?

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    Quote Originally Posted by indebt View Post
    I'm wondering if one of my recommendation's (X-2) was going to be enough output as is any other 1500 or less lumen light for slhazy as his background is racing DH. At that level I would have to say more output the better as long as beam shape is quality because he will be a flyin.

    It would help if he shared what kind of light he borrowed off the LBS I guess as it would give us a starting point.
    I agree. If I were really into the DH scene I'd be thinking more along the lines of a Lupine Wilma-R on the helmet...BUT,
    Another cheaper option might be to run two Gemini Duo's with one "wireless" remote sync'd with both lamps. Run one stock and one with 2-spots. That should be close to 3K lumen coming off the helmet. Of course to do that you would have to rig up a short piece of PVC to create a longer lamp mount but that shouldn't be too hard to do. Of course if you can wait till Gloworm comes out with the X2-(wireless remote), once again run two off the helmet sync'd with one wireless remote and you should have an extremely flexible set-up with an awesome output.

  76. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    I agree. If I were really into the DH scene I'd be thinking more along the lines of a Lupine Wilma-R on the helmet...BUT,
    Another cheaper option might be to run two Gemini Duo's with one "wireless" remote sync'd with both lamps. Run one stock and one with 2-spots. That should be close to 3K lumen coming off the helmet. Of course to do that you would have to rig up a short piece of PVC to create a longer lamp mount but that shouldn't be too hard to do. Of course if you can wait till Gloworm comes out with the X2-(wireless remote), once again run two off the helmet sync'd with one wireless remote and you should have an extremely flexible set-up with an awesome output.
    If ilhazy is totally against a bar lamp to go with a helmet set up, I do like your idea of two Duo's on the lid. Number one reason , I hold my breath when I hear of someone only wanting to use just one light especially with his background as one failure with only one light could end your season. With your recommendation if one failed he would still have the other to save his A$$.

    But his reality sounds like affording one decent light is stretch never mind two. Without a bigger budget he will probably end up with a crapshoot Chinese light which in his case will be even more of a risk just using one system.

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by indebt View Post
    Pretty tough to get what you want in your budget. I mean an honest 2000 lumen helmet light with good throw for $100. Guys like tigris/Cat and a few others if they chimed in could recommend what they perceive as a decent Chinese option but without mods most likely will not have anywhere near the output your looking for. Also seems like a crap shoot on what version of a particular model will be good, or crap, as well as availability and long wait times for your light to actually show up.

    If there was a way to bump up your budget action-led-lights.com have the new Gemini Olympia for 2016. This is an honest 2000lumen light with good throw and has wireless remote which is awesome to have on a helmet light. Pretty sure you would love this light but does come at a cost $199US. If you have good battery's they also have last years Olympia light head only for a touch over $100US.

    Forgot to mention, action-led-lights.com also has some refurbished Gloworm X-2's and battery's that would work and cost you approx. $150US. this would make a good helmet light that is of high quality and two year warranty.
    Yea it does seem my budget is a bit tight for the light output I'm looking to achieve. The Gloworm does look like a good alternative as a primary then run a cheaper BT21s or bt40s on the bars as secondary.

    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    I think you need to drop down to the 1,300 to 1,500 lumen range. +/-1300 lumens really is plenty of light! Perhaps wait for the new BT21S model coming in the next few weeks?

    -Garry
    Do you have a site to order one of these?

    Quote Originally Posted by indebt View Post
    I'm wondering if one of my recommendation's (X-2) was going to be enough output as is any other 1500 or less lumen light for slhazy as his background is racing DH. At that level I would have to say more output the better as long as beam shape is quality because he will be a flyin.

    It would help if he shared what kind of light he borrowed off the LBS I guess as it would give us a starting point.
    I was using a handle bar mounted 90 Lumen commuting light and an old Sigma 1500 mounted on my helmet. The light output with the bar light on full and the 1500 running 20% was perfect for the uphills, then 100% on the descent was good but more output would be better. The bar does shake and vibrate a lot, not sure how that would effect a light, beam bouncing around.

    Quote Originally Posted by indebt View Post
    Do you remember what light you borrowed from your LBS? And was that enough light for you at the speeds you must ride at with your DH racing background?
    the Sigma 1500 on full seemed like just enough but 2500-3000 Lumens would be even better.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    I agree. If I were really into the DH scene I'd be thinking more along the lines of a Lupine Wilma-R on the helmet...BUT,
    Another cheaper option might be to run two Gemini Duo's with one "wireless" remote sync'd with both lamps. Run one stock and one with 2-spots. That should be close to 3K lumen coming off the helmet. Of course to do that you would have to rig up a short piece of PVC to create a longer lamp mount but that shouldn't be too hard to do. Of course if you can wait till Gloworm comes out with the X2-(wireless remote), once again run two off the helmet sync'd with one wireless remote and you should have an extremely flexible set-up with an awesome output.
    Do you have any pictures of suggested duel set-up, I'm having a hard time imagine a way to mount both without the bulk.

    Quote Originally Posted by indebt View Post
    If slhazy is totally against a bar lamp to go with a helmet set up, I do like your idea of two Duo's on the lid. Number one reason , I hold my breath when I hear of someone only wanting to use just one light especially with his background as one failure with only one light could end your season. With your recommendation if one failed he would still have the other to save his A$$.

    But his reality sounds like affording one decent light is stretch never mind two. Without a bigger budget he will probably end up with a crapshoot Chinese light which in his case will be even more of a risk just using one system.
    I will be using 2 separate light setups, helmet as primary with 1500+ then something smaller and cheaper for the bars, like a bt21s, bt40s or other knockoff. Just need to find the right one. I am very intrigued by the Trailled DS lights, almost like a mini light bar for the helmet. But I am looking into the Gloworm X2 and the Gemini Olympia lights as primary lights.

    Thanks again for all the suggestions!

  78. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by slhazy View Post
    Yea it does seem my budget is a bit tight for the light output I'm looking to achieve. The Gloworm does look like a good alternative as a primary then run a cheaper BT21s or bt40s on the bars as secondary.


    Do you have a site to order one of these?



    I was using a handle bar mounted 90 Lumen commuting light and an old Sigma 1500 mounted on my helmet. The light output with the bar light on full and the 1500 running 20% was perfect for the uphills, then 100% on the descent was good but more output would be better. The bar does shake and vibrate a lot, not sure how that would effect a light, beam bouncing around.


    the Sigma 1500 on full seemed like just enough but 2500-3000 Lumens would be even better.


    Do you have any pictures of suggested duel set-up, I'm having a hard time imagine a way to mount both without the bulk.



    I will be using 2 separate light setups, helmet as primary with 1500+ then something smaller and cheaper for the bars, like a bt21s, bt40s or other knockoff. Just need to find the right one. I am very intrigued by the Trailled DS lights, almost like a mini light bar for the helmet. But I am looking into the Gloworm X2 and the Gemini Olympia lights as primary lights.

    Thanks again for all the suggestions!
    Action-led-lights.com now has the refurbished Gloworm XS light for only $100 lighthead only. This is a measured 2300+ lumen light. Batterys are cheap as well and would be best bang for $$ for a quality set up.

  79. #79
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    The Revtronic (Nitefighter) BT21S isn't available yet. Certainly GearBest will sell it. If they're smart they'll have it on Amazon as well.

    -Garry

  80. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by indebt View Post
    Action-led-lights.com now has the refurbished Gloworm XS light for only $100 lighthead only. This is a measured 2300+ lumen light. Batterys are cheap as well and would be best bang for $$ for a quality set up.
    ONLY problem with that is gloworm lights are HEAVY. The x2 would be fine but the xs...not sure I could put that on my helmet. X2 is like 90g can't imagine the actual weight of the xs.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    ONLY problem with that is gloworm lights are HEAVY. The x2 would be fine but the xs...not sure I could put that on my helmet. X2 is like 90g can't imagine the actual weight of the xs.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Sure the Gloworm light-heads are heavier than a Yinding but I think your forgetting to include all the extra mounts we use on our Yindings and BT21s to make them Gopro compatible and thermally acceptable. With all the mounts I use my Yinding is about equal in weight to my X2 and my BT21 weighs more than my XS. I've used all these lights on my helmet and as long as they're positioned correctly had no comfort issues.
    Mole

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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    ONLY problem with that is gloworm lights are HEAVY. The x2 would be fine but the xs...not sure I could put that on my helmet. X2 is like 90g can't imagine the actual weight of the xs.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    I believe the XS is only 20 grams heavier than the X-2. For me I don't find that to heavy unless it's propped up high at the top of the helmet where center of gravity isn't friendly. In that location even the X-2 could have lateral bobbing over rough terrain.

  83. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sirius9 View Post
    This one is not exactly new but it's only $8.6 so I thought to mention it here, it's cheap enough to get a few of them just for experimenting purpose >

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    I finally received this light and first impressions are pretty good! I have yet to tear it open or give it an extended test, but my suspicion is that it will be a really good cheap option. IIRC, there are four modes (L-M-H-Turbo) with a "press-n-hold" to turn off. I don't remember being able to trigger a strobe mode at all - not with double click from off or double-click from on, or a press-n-hold.

    Might report back if I get some time to look deeping into it.

    -Garry

  84. #84
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    Ok, forget the F88. Loose floating pill, only 0.8A on "Turbo", can't get pill out to get to driver without destroying wiring to momentary switch (and/or whatever else pill catches on). A shame as its a decent light otherwise which appears to be quite waterproof.

    Might be a lattice bright, but it's a crisp cool white and not some nasty tint.

    -Garry

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    Anyone find a "cheap-o" with a remote? I assume that's too high class

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    They don't exist, those of us with them do the mods ourselves. I wouldn't want one with a remote made cheaply anyway, no way remote would last more than a ride or 2 before something failed.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by Razroid View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Picked this guy up for about 13 Singaporean bucks and I'd say she's pretty damn bright

    They say it uses CREE XLamp XM-L2 (2 of them) diodes.

    It does get pretty damn hot at max setting (it has 3 levels and a blinking mode) I'm tempted to try and stuff 2 aluminium rods in there with thermal paste to help with cooling.
    It is a bright light. However, the light is very round.

    I like the magic shine single light that I can use with a diffuser lens.

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...iglink20253-20

    $25 with diffuser lens but you can buy a bit cheaper on eBay.

    I have occasional issues with failing batteries: the wires are very thin and the soldering work is a little iffy. Super cheap though.

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    Seems like I'm falling in love with the triple twins.

  89. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mojeb21 View Post
    Anyone find a "cheap-o" with a remote? I assume that's too high class
    Definitely have to go with higher quality stuff to get a remote. Here's the least expensive set-up I could come up with: Gloworm X1 light-head (refurbished) ($48), + Magicshine MJ-6030A 6 cell battery ($19.95) + MJ 6072-2.5A charger ($12.95). 900 actual lumens, 4.5+ hr. runtime on high, $80.90 at Action-LED-Lights and all comes with warranty. A little out of the "Cheepo" price range but your getting a lot more in quality and performance and your least expensive option if you have to have a remote. ***(See Zekia post #94 for less expensive options -considering the superior quality and warranty I still feel my recommendation a better value)***
    Mole

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    Last edited by MRMOLE; 04-22-2016 at 01:07 PM. Reason: late night math

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    I think it is very close to this thing here: Fandyfire F88 / DX version




    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    Ok, forget the F88. Loose floating pill, only 0.8A on "Turbo", can't get pill out to get to driver without destroying wiring to momentary switch (and/or whatever else pill catches on). A shame as its a decent light otherwise which appears to be quite waterproof.

    Might be a lattice bright, but it's a crisp cool white and not some nasty tint.

    -Garry

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    Ah yes, thanks MK96. Seems I also messed up forgetting that the 0.8A current draw gets doubled to the LED (since it's a single LED on a 2S2P pack), so it's 1.6A to the LED. I could update your thread with pics of mine.

    -Garry

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    Go ahead if you like to

    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    Ah yes, thanks MK96. Seems I also messed up forgetting that the 0.8A current draw gets doubled to the LED (since it's a single LED on a 2S2P pack), so it's 1.6A to the LED. I could update your thread with pics of mine.

    -Garry

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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    ......Seems I also messed up forgetting that the 0.8A current draw gets doubled to the LED (since it's a single LED on a 2S2P pack), so it's 1.6A to the LED
    If you are measuring the current draw from the pack you are neglecting driver losses in your estimated current to the LED. IME cheap drivers are only around 85% efficiency so I'd plan on only seeing ~1.35-1.4A at the LED.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mojeb21 View Post
    Anyone find a "cheap-o" with a remote? I assume that's too high class
    Yes, there are several cheap chinese lights with remote control. Search for TrustFire TR-D009 and TR-D010 and TR-D012 .
    For example:
    TrustFire TR-D012 3*Cree XM-L2 T6 4-Mode 1200LM Cool White LED Bike Light
    TrustFire TR-D009 1250~1300lm 4-Mode White Bicycle Light w/ 3 x Cree XM-L T6 - Black (4 x 18650) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

    I've seen other remote controlled chinese lights too, but I don't remember their name/brand. (You just need to search.)

    So you don't have to buy overpriced lights to have remote control.

  95. #95
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    Hi guys,

    I want to get into night riding, i know absolutely nothing except what i picked up in the last half hour reading light reviews over here.

    Right now I am thinking to get the BT40 for the handlebars and the Ituo Wiz 20 for the helmet. Any other decent alternatives i am overlooking?

    Thanks

    Btw, location is in eastern europe so most stuff on amazon won't ship to me unfortunately.

  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by zekia View Post
    Yes, there are several cheap chinese lights with remote control. Search for TrustFire TR-D009 and TR-D010 and TR-D012 .
    .
    Yeah, but the Chinese ( trustfire ) version of remote control is very cheap/ugly. The wires are bigger/longer and so is the button assembly. It will work but it's ugly. As cheap Chinese lamps go that utilize a wired remote almost all use the same type set-up that you see on the Trustfire lamps... ( including that little plastic triangle piece which is never set-up like it should be ). Just my take on it, FWIW.

  97. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by syl3 View Post
    Right now I am thinking to get the BT40 for the handlebars and the Ituo Wiz 20 for the helmet. Any other decent alternatives i am overlooking?

    .
    The Wiz20 is a great light and I'm very happy with mine. It's beam pattern and tint would also compliment the BT40s very well. Unfortunately I'm not sure there is any available way to mount it on a helmet without having a custom mount made (please correct me if I'm wrong anyone). This light is also too heavy IMO for anything more than short rides as a helmet light. Ituo should shortly be releasing a non-selfcontained XP2 light that would probably be more appropriate for helmet use . A NW Yinding + separate quality battery or a new NW Gemini Duo would also work well with the BT40s.
    Mole

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    Cheap all-in-one type of light
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    DECAKER Multi-function 1200Lm XML T6 LED Bicycle Light-20.60 Online Shopping| GearBest.com

    Mounted backwards in the photo. Haha

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    Interesting, just like to put two cheapo torches together. Mount would not survive serious MTB trail.

    And of course there are something like LatticeBright leds inside, definitively not Cree XM-L. It does not say anything about Cree, though.

    In fact this is new counterfeit version of XM-L leds I've never seen before. It has been already spoted by BLF users: - The Fake-Cree LED Awareness Thread - The new "low" in Budget lights. | BudgetLightForum.com
    It has even smaller die than LatticeBright. The tint of the light should be pretty bueish.

  100. #100
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    That would be an attempt at a Fenix clone. They have a flashlight just like that. One of my favorite flashlights too, pushes just a hair over 1900 lumens. No bar mount just a belt clip. 2 torches side by side basically functioning off a single switch.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

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