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  1. #1
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    My Deal Extreme purchase - Ultrafire/Gemini Duo clone + 1

    After reading hundreds of post on here and finally knowing what I was looking for, I decided to take the plunge and order some lights.

    I searched all of the sites mentioned on here and finally found one that had what I was looking for in XM-L2 U2/U3 lights.

    I picked up one of these UltraFire LZZ-U3 2 x CREE XM-L2 U3 4-Mode 1800lm White Bike Light / Headlamp - Black (4 x 18650) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

    and one of these Buy Cree XM-L2 U2 864lm 3-Mode White Bicycle Light Headlamp - Grey + Silver (4 x 18650)

    hoping they would be what they claimed. I was also aware that the batteries would be less than stellar, but I'd deal with that when the time came.

    I placed my order on 02/09/14 and waited. On 03/06/14 they finally arrived, and I immediately tore them apart so I could see what they really had inside.

    My Deal Extreme purchase - Ultrafire/Gemini Duo clone + 1-img_4254.jpg
    My Deal Extreme purchase - Ultrafire/Gemini Duo clone + 1-img_4255.jpg
    My Deal Extreme purchase - Ultrafire/Gemini Duo clone + 1-img_4257.jpg
    My Deal Extreme purchase - Ultrafire/Gemini Duo clone + 1-img_4258.jpg
    My Deal Extreme purchase - Ultrafire/Gemini Duo clone + 1-img_4261.jpg

    As for the batteries, only the single emitter had a weatherproof connection, the Gemini clone didn't.

    The single clicky switch on the Gemini clone worked nice, providing three modes starting from low-mid-high then a soft return to low. Holding the switch down while the lights were on, would turn them off. Holding the switch down while the lights were off, would turn on the strobe mode.

    The single emitter light only had two modes plush strobe, low-high-strobe-off.

    I haven't tested the run time yet or even how well they light up the trails, but I'll post back when I do.

  2. #2
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    Thermally, that duo clone needs help for best performance and reliability. Also glue down the inductor on the driver board if it's not already.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    Thermally, that duo clone needs help for best performance and reliability. Also glue down the inductor on the driver board if it's not already.
    Yeah, I plan on putting some thermal paste around the perimeter.

    Any suggestions on glue, if needed?

  4. #4
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    That gemini clone is what we have been calling a clone of a clone, I have one too its identical the only difference is when Hold down the switch when the lamp is on (green indicator) for 3 - 5 seconds it goes into a orange flashing indicator and I can cycle through 10 levels of light output

  5. #5
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    Steve, Can you take some pics of the gemini clone's housing that the leds seat into. Also how did you take it apart i do not see any screws like the yindings have.

    I have used these 2 products and found the housing heats up much quicker than before so i am guessing it is transferring the heat better..

    Arctic Silver Incorporated - Arctic Silver 5

    Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by outriding9800 View Post
    Steve, Can you take some pics of the gemini clone's housing that the leds seat into. Also how did you take it apart i do not see any screws like the yindings have.

    I have used these 2 products and found the housing heats up much quicker than before so i am guessing it is transferring the heat better..

    Arctic Silver Incorporated - Arctic Silver 5

    Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive
    I've got it back together but when I get the thermal paste, I'll grab some shots.

    This model has two tiny allen head set screws that hold the back of the light in place. It has no O-rings, other than the two around the lenses, so I'm sure it's not waterproof. The LED board is held down with two Phillips screws and it has enough gap around the perimeter that I'm sure the screw contact points are the only heat transfer point, until I add some thermal compound.

    I use Arctic silver on all of my PC builds. That stuff is awesome.

    One thing, is there a visual way to tell if these are CREE LEDs or fakes? They don't say CREE anywhere on the boards, but I'm not sure if it would or not. The single emitter says CREE XML, so I'll assume it's not an XM-L2.

  7. #7
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    Thanks Steve..

    this website has a decent up close pic of CREEs..

    Cree - Flashlight Wiki

    The L2s have 2 wires and kind of look like a waffle up close..

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by outriding9800 View Post
    Thanks Steve..

    this website has a decent up close pic of CREEs..

    Cree - Flashlight Wiki

    The L2s have 2 wires and kind of look like a waffle up close..
    Thanks! I read that site but I need a magnifying glass so I can see the LED. I was hoping for an easy way out. lol

    I'll report back on my findings. The weather is looking great the next 10 days, so maybe I'll be able to get some riding in.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trd620 View Post
    That gemini clone is what we have been calling a clone of a clone, I have one too its identical the only difference is when Hold down the switch when the lamp is on (green indicator) for 3 - 5 seconds it goes into a orange flashing indicator and I can cycle through 10 levels of light output
    Hold on a minute...Are you saying you have a Gemini Duo clone that has the stepless menu option? If so what model did you buy and where did you buy it from?

    hidperf, you should have a set-up that should work well. Your D/X batteries might actually work better than expected. A couple years back D/X began trying to supply a more useable battery with some of their lights. I was a given a quad set-up to test and the battery on that lamp ran for two hours which is not too shabby all things considered. Be sure to do a run test with the batteries before you do any longer rides. Just be sure to use a fan blowing on the lamps when you do the test so the lamps don't over-heat.

    The only thing I think you did wrong was buy the single emitter lamp with only two steady modes. The same style single emitter lamps with 3 steady modes are readily available. You would of been better off with one of those. When I ride about 80% of the time I use my mid-modes.

  10. #10
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    I posted in the Gemini duo clone thread a while ago I called it the clone of the clone, yes it has a step less menu it has 10 modes

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    hidperf, you should have a set-up that should work well. Your D/X batteries might actually work better than expected. A couple years back D/X began trying to supply a more useable battery with some of their lights. I was a given a quad set-up to test and the battery on that lamp ran for two hours which is not too shabby all things considered. Be sure to do a run test with the batteries before you do any longer rides. Just be sure to use a fan blowing on the lamps when you do the test so the lamps don't over-heat.

    The only thing I think you did wrong was buy the single emitter lamp with only two steady modes. The same style single emitter lamps with 3 steady modes are readily available. You would of been better off with one of those. When I ride about 80% of the time I use my mid-modes.

    I hope you're correct on the batteries. That would save me a few bucks that I could put towards something else fun.

    I'll try and do a run test this week, or weekend, while I'm rebuilding the shock/fork on the bike. I'll post results if I do.

    Yeah, I didn't realize that it was only two steady modes until it was already shipped. I was more focused on the XM-L2 U2 and didn't pay attention to the modes. It's still pretty bright on low though. I took some pictures in my back yard, but it's just a point and shoot camera that has very little adjustability so I doubt they'll be of use. Plus I forgot to turn off my flood light, so 2sec exposure with the flood light doesn't give you a great comparison.

  12. #12
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    So I finally had time to do a run test on them today and I was surprised by both lights.

    The dual light went yellow after only 34mins, red after 41mins, flashing red at 1hr and 14mins but then I finally shut it down at the 5hr mark. It was still putting out light, although it wouldn't change modes.

    The single never went yellow and went straight to red at 2hrs 36mins and shut off completely at 2hr 38mins.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by nofa View Post
    Can I see the pict of your test? Thanks

    [IMG]*********************/113/w.png[/IMG]
    Pictures? Of the run test? I didn't take any pictures of the run test. I just started a timer on my phone when I turned them both on and noted the times when things changed.

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