Page 6 of 6 FirstFirst ... 2 3 4 5 6
Results 126 to 148 of 148

Thread: magicshine XM-L

  1. #126
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    300
    So Rakuman,,,,,,,,Any chance you are going to be making/selling lenses ? I recently picked up a xml and would like to run it on my bars (paired with a reg. ms on my helmet) but as stated before they are a little spotty for bars in stock form. Thanks

  2. #127
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    191
    I bought two. One for my Son and one for me. After trying the one on helmet one on bars approach (These are my first REAL bike lights) I can see I am going to have to buy two more. I'm trying to wait for the next gen. and see what that brings. Anyone know???

  3. #128
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Rakuman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    717
    Quote Originally Posted by SoCalNomadRider View Post
    So Rakuman,,,,,,,,Any chance you are going to be making/selling lenses ? I recently picked up a xml and would like to run it on my bars (paired with a reg. ms on my helmet) but as stated before they are a little spotty for bars in stock form. Thanks

    Sorry Guys I don't plan making these to Sell that's why posted the DIY
    I always type in bold cuz I'm blind as a bat
    For the Rich there is therapy!!!! for the rest of us we have Mountain Biking


  4. #129
    VENI VEDI BIKI
    Reputation: skankingbiker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    646
    I got my MS XML lighthead last week. Mounted it to my bars and mounted my original MS (900 LM) to my helmet. I could not beleive how much brighter the XML was! Running both sets made a huge difference in visibility and peripheral vision. I don't know how I rode with just one light before.

  5. #130
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    191
    Quote Originally Posted by skankingbiker View Post
    I got my MS XML lighthead last week. Mounted it to my bars and mounted my original MS (900 LM) to my helmet. I could not beleive how much brighter the XML was! Running both sets made a huge difference in visibility and peripheral vision. I don't know how I rode with just one light before.
    ......I hear ya. I don't know how I ever rode with junk lights. I just wonder how far CREE can go? I can't wait to see.....

  6. #131
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ussprinceton2004's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    336
    When I use these light for a ride and use only a fraction of the battery energy, do I have to completely use up or drain all the battery power before charging it? I am worried that the battery will not last long or will get damaged if I charge it after every ride. Is there some kind of memory effect when charging these batteries? Do you recommend waiting until the battery is completely drained before charging again, or is it ok to charge after every ride? Please let me know. Thanks.

  7. #132
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Dominik.M's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    141
    You are right - the best way to preserve li-ion us to use full cycle.

  8. #133
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    3,651
    Quote Originally Posted by ussprinceton2004 View Post
    When I use these light for a ride and use only a fraction of the battery energy, do I have to completely use up or drain all the battery power before charging it? I am worried that the battery will not last long or will get damaged if I charge it after every ride. Is there some kind of memory effect when charging these batteries? Do you recommend waiting until the battery is completely drained before charging again, or is it ok to charge after every ride? Please let me know. Thanks.
    According to Battery University, with Li-ion cells it is better NOT to discharge the battery to it's lowest levels. Doing so ages the battery faster. Unless you're using the battery every day though it probably won't make a big difference. I charge mine the day before I ride. Sometimes I'll wait till after two rides are in if the rides are shorter. If you're into longer rides: better to have more juice and not need it than to need more juice and not have it.

  9. #134
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    353
    good point cat-man-do.

    some notes,...

    the protection circuit on the MS, is set way to low,
    draining the batterie completely , and then charging full, to sit on the shelf,
    gets you about 1/3 of the life from the cell.

    unfortunately without a microprocessor charger, you can't do a store charge,
    aka 50-60% and top it of once needed.
    and there is no circuit available, to have multiple batteries power your light,...

    backup:
    you can use some other batteries, like nimh like a 7.2V RC pack or 8.4V, 9.6V,
    even string some AA together.

    on the new XML, did test it with a 3S aka 6cell 11.1V battery,
    you do loose, the color charge indicator.
    that means, in a pinch, I can duck-tape my laptop battery to the frame,
    and have juice. (or camelback) . and rather have a spare laptop battery,
    since it's more useful.

    others , DIY
    adding a balance port to the battery pack, is a good thing, an EOS Sentry, gives you piece of mind,
    even if you don't have a fancy charger.

    hmm, occasionally, be nice, to get some feedback, on what you guys, might want.
    most of the time, it feels like, I'am sending out messages out to deep space, past orion.

    cheers, Rob


    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    According to Battery University, with Li-ion cells it is better NOT to discharge the battery to it's lowest levels. Doing so ages the battery faster. Unless you're using the battery every day though it probably won't make a big difference. I charge mine the day before I ride. Sometimes I'll wait till after two rides are in if the rides are shorter. If you're into longer rides: better to have more juice and not need it than to need more juice and not have it.

  10. #135
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    191
    Quote Originally Posted by rschultz101 View Post
    good point cat-man-do.

    some notes,...

    the protection circuit on the MS, is set way to low,
    draining the batterie completely , and then charging full, to sit on the shelf,
    gets you about 1/3 of the life from the cell.

    unfortunately without a microprocessor charger, you can't do a store charge,
    aka 50-60% and top it of once needed.
    and there is no circuit available, to have multiple batteries power your light,...

    backup:
    you can use some other batteries, like nimh like a 7.2V RC pack or 8.4V, 9.6V,
    even string some AA together.

    on the new XML, did test it with a 3S aka 6cell 11.1V battery,
    you do loose, the color charge indicator.
    that means, in a pinch, I can duck-tape my laptop battery to the frame,
    and have juice. (or camelback) . and rather have a spare laptop battery,
    since it's more useful.

    others , DIY
    adding a balance port to the battery pack, is a good thing, an EOS Sentry, gives you piece of mind,
    even if you don't have a fancy charger.

    hmm, occasionally, be nice, to get some feedback, on what you guys, might want.
    most of the time, it feels like, I'am sending out messages out to deep space, past orion.

    cheers, Rob
    ...Feedback....How about a suggestion for a "Smart" charger? Or is there some adaptors for a so called "Smart" charger I own for my RC truck? It's a super brain 959. Thanks.

  11. #136
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    353
    hmm, chargers,...
    entry level, maybe imax chargers, the ones with LCD display,...
    some don't have store charge.
    the ones I like, Schulze and Hyperion .
    and I like balance ports on all my packs.
    cheers, Rob

    Quote Originally Posted by SAVAGESAM View Post
    ...Feedback....How about a suggestion for a "Smart" charger? Or is there some adaptors for a so called "Smart" charger I own for my RC truck? It's a super brain 959. Thanks.

  12. #137
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    362
    Hey Rob

    I understand you might be able to hook me up w/ an adaptor from the new 6.0 Geo battery to my Dinottes 800L/400L.

    Sorry, didn't mean to hijack the thread.

    MB

  13. #138
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    353
    mb323323 -> adapter
    think dinotte, has a Y-adapter, should work, might need to cut some rubber to make the MS fit.
    otherwise, give me a buzz/email, use contact info,...
    for Rakuman, super neat, cool beans, send me pic of all the batteries, you use.
    have a Genie in a bottle, what whispered, 3 wishes, to play transformer with those juice cells.
    needs to be tested in the wet and mud. have not been riding lately , due health,
    so everything LE/LA, limited edition/limited availability.
    cheers, Rob

  14. #139
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    826
    Quote Originally Posted by Rakuman View Post
    This new one is not as intense in the spill as the solid frosted rim but big improvements in throw.
    My goal with these mods is to have a pair of XM-L bar lights that I can you use in every situation thats why one flood and one with a smoothed out throw that in an instant I can tilt one light up or down to bomb down that fireroad at 30+ or that tight singletrack. By themselves they are OK better than stock spot XM-L for the bars but used as a pair that's were they shine.

    Cat what I would really like to try is the Ray2 reflector in this XM-L light head it would be great if you could get some good flood without diffusing the light at all.



    So...I don't have a sandblaster. What about using an opaque paint pen? Or even an opaque paint pen used for high heat environments like engine blocks? Would that maybe work?

  15. #140
    Got a suspension fork
    Reputation: randyharris's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    2,242
    Quote Originally Posted by apacherider View Post
    So...I don't have a sandblaster. What about using an opaque paint pen? Or even an opaque paint pen used for high heat environments like engine blocks? Would that maybe work?
    What about steel wool or sandpaper?
    ONE SHOX, ONE GEAR, LOTS of FUN! www.TrailFu.com My Rides

  16. #141
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    826
    Quote Originally Posted by randyharris View Post
    What about steel wool or sandpaper?
    I was thinking about that too. Or a dremel with a sanding attachment?

  17. #142
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Rakuman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    717
    You have to sand blast for this to work, I am a Glass artist and If you have ever seen sandblasted clear glass with a light behind it you will notice the frosted part seems to glow and what makes it glow so intensely is by blasting the glass you are make little miniature refractory points imagine a million microscopic mirrors and with a light source is applied it lights up..
    The one thing the XM-L lacks is intense spill, so my theory was the edges of the reflector is basically wasted so what if we had microscopic mirrors that will catch the light and bounce it back to the reflector which in turn bounces to the other side of the reflector over and over again eventually exiting the front as more light in the spill.
    My experment concluded that if you want mass flood blast it with the solid ring but you will lose throw. and it you want some flood + almost maximum throw use the pet screen ring what that does is let more light thru in turn more throw
    Im not using any of these lense since I got a MJ872, mass flood then a put a XM-L next to it for maximum throw
    I always type in bold cuz I'm blind as a bat
    For the Rich there is therapy!!!! for the rest of us we have Mountain Biking


  18. #143
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    826
    Quote Originally Posted by Rakuman View Post
    You have to sand blast for this to work, I am a Glass artist and If you have ever seen sandblasted clear glass with a light behind it you will notice the frosted part seems to glow and what makes it glow so intensely is by blasting the glass you are make little miniature refractory points imagine a million microscopic mirrors and with a light source is applied it lights up..
    The one thing the XM-L lacks is intense spill, so my theory was the edges of the reflector is basically wasted so what if we had microscopic mirrors that will catch the light and bounce it back to the reflector which in turn bounces to the other side of the reflector over and over again eventually exiting the front as more light in the spill.
    My experment concluded that if you want mass flood blast it with the solid ring but you will lose throw. and it you want some flood + almost maximum throw use the pet screen ring what that does is let more light thru in turn more throw
    Im not using any of these lense since I got a MJ872, mass flood then a put a XM-L next to it for maximum throw
    Ahh, I see. I just got one of the Magicshine XML's that have a perfectly smooth reflector. It's like the ultimate spot beam for long distance but lacks spill. I'm trying to come up with a way to easily jerry rig it. I have a few weeks to figure it out before the days get short enough to really start using the light religiously.

  19. #144
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    191
    Can two light heads be run off of ONE battery pack? Or would that trip the circuits?

  20. #145
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    224
    I've had excellent results using the action wide angle lens on ebay. It more than doubles the width of the beam with only minor reductions in throw and intensity (20% is my estimate) and it also flattens the beam on the top so there's less light spill going up in the air where it's not usable to you and it's less annoying to on comming traffic (I haven't had one car flash it's brights at me or any bad comments from pedestrians or other cyclists since I installed this lens). It's not as pretty as Rakuman's custom optics though.
    Rakuman I got an idea looking at you optics. I noticed you used a symetrical pattern which should widen the beam in every direction. I would think that if you only modified the sections that widen the beam side to side and down you should get the same flood and retain more of the throw. It might not make a huge difference but every little bit helps.

  21. #146
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Rakuman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    717
    I tried that didn't work! if I remember right I tried leaving the top and bottom of the ring clear and it kind of lost the flood effect I think because seeing it is round it needs to bounce off every angle of the reflector to increase the spill brightness, This does not make the spill wider it just makes it brighter much brighter.
    I have tried those ones off ebay and they seem to work great ,
    didnt take it on the trail thou, the day it came in the mail, so did my MJ872 after that I retired my experimenting with XM-Ls they were kind of a moot point compared to all that flood..
    I always type in bold cuz I'm blind as a bat
    For the Rich there is therapy!!!! for the rest of us we have Mountain Biking


  22. #147
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    1
    Why not drill a hole out of the center of the action wide angle lens and place it over the clear glass lens? That would direct light normally thrown upward more to the side, while retaining much throw.

  23. #148
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    26
    Does the specification is measured by the ways of ANSI standard?(output, waterproof, or others)

Page 6 of 6 FirstFirst ... 2 3 4 5 6

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •