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Thread: magicshine XM-L

  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by rschultz101 View Post
    good job Rakuman !
    if you want , I could send you a goody bag with with lenses, reflectors, etc, to play with.
    probably want $20 to cover shipping, and will take 2 beers, to dig that stuff out,...
    the MS XML has not caught up yet, and most ride with 1x light, what is not enough , to start playing with lenses, or spreaders.
    Lumen wise, the MS is the same construction, so too smaller body, same driver, same multi piece construction, and cheap base, what makes the LED run hot, and the lumen go down after 10 min.
    compared to the Baja Strykr, you get about same lumens, but the Baja, as a better construction, and design, as such , does get a better and brighter spot. So no free lunch, Baja still rocks.
    So far I had not much requests for the Baja, since people are already happy with them.
    If I make a few mods, for the Baja Strykr, would be for a handful of Marines, what also take it diving.
    with multiple lights, to create a ultra smooth beam for underwater video.
    currently in a slump, tight up with work, and health issues, it's hard to push forward.
    Did finish my personal light, and it's usable,
    a helmet light, dual led, 1000 lumen, has a on/off switch that's it, 90gr, 1/2 height of MS.
    and a handlebar light 6x led-x, 3200 lumen (1/2 power), I don't bother pushing it to 5000,
    how does it look, well, just like a light mounted on a Enduro, about same size too.
    Mounted on same spot too. 2 switches next to shifter, one for 1600, and one more for 1600 more.
    call it the LB, Light-Brick, same size, and tough as a local Bruins player.
    all this needs some serious power, and chargers. and most weekend warriors , are weight weenies,
    and penny pinchers, this definitely would not fit in their pizza and beer schedule.
    ---
    back to MS, the new 868, it's shinny , uuhh, ahh, more important, it gets a new shell.
    this should be a better heat path, and a new driver too. other than that, same old, pretty much same reflector, and you still need two. If you like reflectors ok, otherwise, I'd say, right now, for the low end budget, a 4x XPG plus, it's where it is. with 7x you can ride with one light, otherwise, get a 4x and keep your old MS . why, most still like the spot, and 4x xpg are better then 1x xml, better design too.
    oh, there was a business guy in britan, always on the cell phone, and summer time, cleaning the pool, always managed to drop his 500 buck phone in the pool. So, since a guy, he looked around, and be practical, stuck his phone in a condome, to waterproof it. He did get a good response, so he went to get some colored ones, and packaged it nicely, and put a patent out.
    thought , it was funny, and successful , probably need something like that for MS lights, for improvements.
    cheers, Rob
    Thanks Rob
    Sorry about chopping up one of your masterpieces I figured it would be a good place to start.
    I was typing my last post when this one come thru
    I personally think most people ride with 2 lights that's why I tried to make this one a better fit for the bars to compliment a helmet light.
    Your completely right about multiple XPG's will kick a single XM-L in a hearbeat, longer runtimes and cooler too.
    My project was to try to get the most out of this relatively inexpensive $$ XM-L
    Last edited by Rakuman; 07-12-2011 at 08:10 PM.
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  2. #102
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    Rakuman that indeed is looks very promising! Given the choice between 1st and second setup only, I'd ride with the 2nd setup in heartbeat.

    Perhaps I can send you some stock glass lenses to blast for me. I'd renumerate you of course. Nicely done!

  3. #103
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    Well I spent 2 hours reading my cameras user guide and I think I have things right now these are to MTBR settings
    6 SECONDS AT F4 - WHITE BALANCE - DAYLIGHT

    Stock Magicshine XM-L lens


    Modified Magicshine XM-L lens


    Stock Magicshine XM-L lens


    Modified Magicshine XM-L lens

    I am going to blast some lenses for some friends tomorrow I will take some pics and post a how to.
    I always type in bold cuz I'm blind as a bat
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  4. #104
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    Alright spent some time with my sandblast booth and came up with another lens, Its in between a flood and the stock lense, smooths things out and gives almost full stock XM-L throw, Paired with my flood lens it makes a great handlebar combo nice and floody in tight but nice spot out deep.

    Flood Spot & Flood handlebar combo


    Floody spot


    How to DIY






    Just use clear masking tape to make your center masking that way you can make a dot in the center of your lens to line up your masking.
    To do the floody spot use the same dimensions as the flood lens the get some pinstripe tape or 1/8" masking tape at a auto paint store, some auto parts stores sell this stuff.
    After you have it masked take it to a glass shop that has a blaster and have them frost the lens shouldn't be more than a couple of bucks takes no more than 5 minutes to do the blasting. put the blasted side of lens inside of light.
    I do not know if acid etching will give you the same affect when you blast glass it leaves indentations that refract light, I think acid gives a smoother surface, someone else can try that one,

    I tried the flood lens with the MS 900 and that P7 does not have the punch to make this mod work
    looks like this is a XM-L only mod but at $54 per lightheads http://www.geomangear.com/index.php?...ip7o9g2guhk896 it makes a inexpensive and effective bar light combo. sure I'm running two lightheads and two batteries but in my opinion its worth it.
    I will get in the field beamshots soon of the floody spot and the handlebar combo soon
    Last edited by Rakuman; 07-19-2011 at 09:07 PM.
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  5. #105
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    Rakuman, HUGE kudos to you for all the experimenting you're doing with the lenses! I'm really impressed with beamshots!

    I'll have to see if there is a glass shop anywhere in my area once I order a XM-L light.

    Thanks.

  6. #106
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    Are these lights rebuildable/upgradeable? In stock form are they better as a bar mount light or a helmet mount?

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by SAVAGESAM View Post
    Are these lights rebuildable/upgradeable? In stock form are they better as a bar mount light or a helmet mount?
    If you had to,,, you could rebuild them but for $54 bucks why spend the time? and stock they are pretty much a helmet light but with a few simple mods as seen above the make a killer handlebar light.
    Right now I am running 3 of these,
    2 on the bars that have been modded and one stock on the helmet
    Thats around 2200 realistic lumens for less than $400 total with 3 - 6.0 batteries and accessories helmet and bars covered
    http://www.geomangear.com/index.php?...kq5kr2f92mo8h1
    I always type in bold cuz I'm blind as a bat
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  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rakuman View Post

    If you had to,,, you could rebuild them but for $54 bucks why spend the time? and stock they are pretty much a helmet light but with a few simple mods as seen above the make a killer handlebar light.
    Right now I am running 3 of these,
    2 on the bars that have been modded and one stock on the helmet
    Thats around 2200 realistic lumens for less than $400 total with 3 - 6.0 batteries and accessories helmet and bars covered
    http://www.geomangear.com/index.php?...kq5kr2f92mo8h1
    Thanks for the reply. I was just thinking that when CREE comes out with something that's a big step up in lumens, it might be worthwhile to use one to try to learn how to do it. Also While I'm here does GMG sell any of those glow in the dark O-rings? Or do you know where to get them? I seen a pic. of one of GMG lights with the GITD O-ring in it and it looked really neat. Thanks for reading.

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by SAVAGESAM View Post
    Also While I'm here does GMG sell any of those glow in the dark O-rings? Or do you know where to get them? I seen a pic. of one of GMG lights with the GITD O-ring in it and it looked really neat. Thanks for reading.
    I Have not got a clue maybe Geoman Will chime in.
    I'm not associated with Geoman what soever except that Ive bought a boatload of lights from him. Based on Price and the best customer service in the industry you can not go wrong purchasing from him
    I always type in bold cuz I'm blind as a bat
    For the Rich there is therapy!!!! for the rest of us we have Mountain Biking


  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rakuman View Post
    I Have not got a clue maybe Geoman Will chime in.
    I'm not associated with Geoman what soever except that Ive bought a boatload of lights from him. Based on Price and the best customer service in the industry you can not go wrong purchasing from him
    I couldn't agree with you more. Plus they've put up with me asking a million questions.

  11. #111
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    You can get the GITD O-rings from Dealextreme.

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    How long do you guys think before MS comes out w/ a cordless 600 real lumens for under 100 bucks. Might be right around the corner.

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    My thought is... We can produce locally what other countries produce. We can sell those products at a comparable price, definitely not cheaper, but comparable. If the price of gas (for trans-global shipping) continues to rise, we may even be able to match foreign prices. So, with that in mind, I try to buy locally as much as I can. I even try to support local shops selling non-local product. However, this is the first purchase I've made online, straight from foreign, that I feel we could never price match. It's scary, the thought that foreign labor+shipping 10,000 miles is cheaper than local labor+shipping 1000 miles. I'm feeling a little guilty about my purchase.... We are trading our economy for cool cheap (bright as hell) plastic toys...

    By the way, this is my first post. Greetings from Asheville, land of the wookies.

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    Well I bit the bullet and ordered two of them. They should be here tomorrow. Thanks GEOMAN. Btw GEOMAN is great to deal with so far. I look forward to continuing to do business with this company.

  15. #115
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    I have one more lens to share with you guys this one is floody and you get almost full throw
    My favorite as of now when paired with the notched lens you get a nice smooth floody beam that transitions to almost full XM-L throw all you have to do to make this one is get some pet friendly screendoor screen its thicker than normal screen.and hold it tight to the lens when you blast.

    I always type in bold cuz I'm blind as a bat
    For the Rich there is therapy!!!! for the rest of us we have Mountain Biking


  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rakuman View Post
    I have one more lens to share with you guys this one is floody and you get almost full throw
    My favorite as of now when paired with the notched lens you get a nice smooth floody beam that transitions to almost full XM-L throw all you have to do to make this one is get some pet friendly screendoor screen its thicker than normal screen.and hold it tight to the lens when you blast.

    Rakuman, you have some amazing ideas regarding lens mod patterns.

    Noticeably better than the last (with double concentric circles) I presume?

  17. #117
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    It would be interesting to see this mod in a head to head with the Bikeray II. Cool stuff there Rakuman.

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chromagftw View Post
    Rakuman, you have some amazing ideas regarding lens mod patterns.

    Noticeably better than the last (with double concentric circles) I presume?
    This new one is not as intense in the spill as the solid frosted rim but big improvements in throw.
    My goal with these mods is to have a pair of XM-L bar lights that I can you use in every situation thats why one flood and one with a smoothed out throw that in an instant I can tilt one light up or down to bomb down that fireroad at 30+ or that tight singletrack. By themselves they are OK better than stock spot XM-L for the bars but used as a pair that's were they shine.

    Cat what I would really like to try is the Ray2 reflector in this XM-L light head it would be great if you could get some good flood without diffusing the light at all.



    Last edited by Rakuman; 08-03-2011 at 08:28 AM.
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  19. #119
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    I just went for my first ride with these lights this morning (4 A.M.) I had one on my helmet and one on the bars. I tell you what, having one on the bars and one on the helmet is the cats pajamas!!! I am VERY impressed with the output (Now, I concede here I am a newb when it comes to bike lights so factor that in) they are all the light I could ever imagine needing. THANK YOU GEOMAN!!!

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by SAVAGESAM View Post
    I just went for my first ride with these lights this morning (4 A.M.) I had one on my helmet and one on the bars. I tell you what, having one on the bars and one on the helmet is the cats pajamas!!! I am VERY impressed with the output (Now, I concede here I am a newb when it comes to bike lights so factor that in) they are all the light I could ever imagine needing. THANK YOU GEOMAN!!!
    Savagesam Congrats on getting into night riding seeing you are a newb a word of advice with these lights they create a lot of heat so dim them to low when you are moving slow or standing still so they don't overheat. 10 miles Hr+ crank em up.
    I always type in bold cuz I'm blind as a bat
    For the Rich there is therapy!!!! for the rest of us we have Mountain Biking


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    Quote Originally Posted by SAVAGESAM View Post
    I just went for my first ride ....... they are all the light I could ever imagine needing.
    It always starts out as that and then very surely the lust for more lumens sets in!

    Welcome to the dark side!!!

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rakuman View Post
    Savagesam Congrats on getting into night riding seeing you are a newb a word of advice with these lights they create a lot of heat so dim them to low when you are moving slow or standing still so they don't overheat. 10 miles Hr+ crank em up.
    Thanks for the tip, I appreciate any and all advice. Also, Thanks to the guy a few replies up who said I can get the G.I.T.D. O-rings from deal extreme. Rakuman does the front bezel just unscrew easy peasy? Thanks.

  23. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chromagftw View Post
    It always starts out as that and then very surely the lust for more lumens sets in!

    Welcome to the dark side!!!
    Oh man do I believe you. That "Welcome to the dark side" made me smile. That's what we tell newbs on another website I frequent. Thanks for the welcome.

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    I picked up one of these after my Niterider Moab HID died this week. I tested it out last night in stock form and its certainly a bargain at $90 and would work well with a group ride but using as just a helmet mount light on a solo ride it wasn't as bright as I would like. The HID that I was used to had a much whiter beam and was much deeper. I found myself hitting obstacles way to fast because I couldn't see them approaching. All in all I think its a bargain but it won't work for me. I'm thinking of trying one of there 1600 lumen lights; does anyone have any experience with those?

  25. #125
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    So you used only a helmet light no light on the bars? Hummmm These lights are extremely spotty and the spill does not give out to much light. but realistically that bright spot reaches way past 100 yards. sounds like you need a good flood on the bars. with the simple mods I did above fills in that spill so you can see every feature 10 to 60 ft in front of your bike but also it reaches a good 75 yards. pair that with the spot on the helmet and you don't miss much.

    in this picture is the stock XM-L you see the first tree is about 30 feet away then there is a dead area until you get to around 50 then its all hotspot each one of these orange trees are at least 20 feet wide and have a couple of feet between them so as you can see its plenty bright way out there but lacking up close, these pics were taken with the lights angled to demonstrate their maximum throw, and if you were pointing it down closer in front of you of course its going to light up were ever you look.


    Pair that with something like this to light up everything up close and I cant out run it.
    Last edited by Rakuman; 08-05-2011 at 04:17 PM.
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    So Rakuman,,,,,,,,Any chance you are going to be making/selling lenses ? I recently picked up a xml and would like to run it on my bars (paired with a reg. ms on my helmet) but as stated before they are a little spotty for bars in stock form. Thanks

  27. #127
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    I bought two. One for my Son and one for me. After trying the one on helmet one on bars approach (These are my first REAL bike lights) I can see I am going to have to buy two more. I'm trying to wait for the next gen. and see what that brings. Anyone know???

  28. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoCalNomadRider View Post
    So Rakuman,,,,,,,,Any chance you are going to be making/selling lenses ? I recently picked up a xml and would like to run it on my bars (paired with a reg. ms on my helmet) but as stated before they are a little spotty for bars in stock form. Thanks

    Sorry Guys I don't plan making these to Sell that's why posted the DIY
    I always type in bold cuz I'm blind as a bat
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  29. #129
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    I got my MS XML lighthead last week. Mounted it to my bars and mounted my original MS (900 LM) to my helmet. I could not beleive how much brighter the XML was! Running both sets made a huge difference in visibility and peripheral vision. I don't know how I rode with just one light before.

  30. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by skankingbiker View Post
    I got my MS XML lighthead last week. Mounted it to my bars and mounted my original MS (900 LM) to my helmet. I could not beleive how much brighter the XML was! Running both sets made a huge difference in visibility and peripheral vision. I don't know how I rode with just one light before.
    ......I hear ya. I don't know how I ever rode with junk lights. I just wonder how far CREE can go? I can't wait to see.....

  31. #131
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    When I use these light for a ride and use only a fraction of the battery energy, do I have to completely use up or drain all the battery power before charging it? I am worried that the battery will not last long or will get damaged if I charge it after every ride. Is there some kind of memory effect when charging these batteries? Do you recommend waiting until the battery is completely drained before charging again, or is it ok to charge after every ride? Please let me know. Thanks.

  32. #132
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    You are right - the best way to preserve li-ion us to use full cycle.

  33. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by ussprinceton2004 View Post
    When I use these light for a ride and use only a fraction of the battery energy, do I have to completely use up or drain all the battery power before charging it? I am worried that the battery will not last long or will get damaged if I charge it after every ride. Is there some kind of memory effect when charging these batteries? Do you recommend waiting until the battery is completely drained before charging again, or is it ok to charge after every ride? Please let me know. Thanks.
    According to Battery University, with Li-ion cells it is better NOT to discharge the battery to it's lowest levels. Doing so ages the battery faster. Unless you're using the battery every day though it probably won't make a big difference. I charge mine the day before I ride. Sometimes I'll wait till after two rides are in if the rides are shorter. If you're into longer rides: better to have more juice and not need it than to need more juice and not have it.

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    good point cat-man-do.

    some notes,...

    the protection circuit on the MS, is set way to low,
    draining the batterie completely , and then charging full, to sit on the shelf,
    gets you about 1/3 of the life from the cell.

    unfortunately without a microprocessor charger, you can't do a store charge,
    aka 50-60% and top it of once needed.
    and there is no circuit available, to have multiple batteries power your light,...

    backup:
    you can use some other batteries, like nimh like a 7.2V RC pack or 8.4V, 9.6V,
    even string some AA together.

    on the new XML, did test it with a 3S aka 6cell 11.1V battery,
    you do loose, the color charge indicator.
    that means, in a pinch, I can duck-tape my laptop battery to the frame,
    and have juice. (or camelback) . and rather have a spare laptop battery,
    since it's more useful.

    others , DIY
    adding a balance port to the battery pack, is a good thing, an EOS Sentry, gives you piece of mind,
    even if you don't have a fancy charger.

    hmm, occasionally, be nice, to get some feedback, on what you guys, might want.
    most of the time, it feels like, I'am sending out messages out to deep space, past orion.

    cheers, Rob


    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    According to Battery University, with Li-ion cells it is better NOT to discharge the battery to it's lowest levels. Doing so ages the battery faster. Unless you're using the battery every day though it probably won't make a big difference. I charge mine the day before I ride. Sometimes I'll wait till after two rides are in if the rides are shorter. If you're into longer rides: better to have more juice and not need it than to need more juice and not have it.

  35. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by rschultz101 View Post
    good point cat-man-do.

    some notes,...

    the protection circuit on the MS, is set way to low,
    draining the batterie completely , and then charging full, to sit on the shelf,
    gets you about 1/3 of the life from the cell.

    unfortunately without a microprocessor charger, you can't do a store charge,
    aka 50-60% and top it of once needed.
    and there is no circuit available, to have multiple batteries power your light,...

    backup:
    you can use some other batteries, like nimh like a 7.2V RC pack or 8.4V, 9.6V,
    even string some AA together.

    on the new XML, did test it with a 3S aka 6cell 11.1V battery,
    you do loose, the color charge indicator.
    that means, in a pinch, I can duck-tape my laptop battery to the frame,
    and have juice. (or camelback) . and rather have a spare laptop battery,
    since it's more useful.

    others , DIY
    adding a balance port to the battery pack, is a good thing, an EOS Sentry, gives you piece of mind,
    even if you don't have a fancy charger.

    hmm, occasionally, be nice, to get some feedback, on what you guys, might want.
    most of the time, it feels like, I'am sending out messages out to deep space, past orion.

    cheers, Rob
    ...Feedback....How about a suggestion for a "Smart" charger? Or is there some adaptors for a so called "Smart" charger I own for my RC truck? It's a super brain 959. Thanks.

  36. #136
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    hmm, chargers,...
    entry level, maybe imax chargers, the ones with LCD display,...
    some don't have store charge.
    the ones I like, Schulze and Hyperion .
    and I like balance ports on all my packs.
    cheers, Rob

    Quote Originally Posted by SAVAGESAM View Post
    ...Feedback....How about a suggestion for a "Smart" charger? Or is there some adaptors for a so called "Smart" charger I own for my RC truck? It's a super brain 959. Thanks.

  37. #137
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    Hey Rob

    I understand you might be able to hook me up w/ an adaptor from the new 6.0 Geo battery to my Dinottes 800L/400L.

    Sorry, didn't mean to hijack the thread.

    MB

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    mb323323 -> adapter
    think dinotte, has a Y-adapter, should work, might need to cut some rubber to make the MS fit.
    otherwise, give me a buzz/email, use contact info,...
    for Rakuman, super neat, cool beans, send me pic of all the batteries, you use.
    have a Genie in a bottle, what whispered, 3 wishes, to play transformer with those juice cells.
    needs to be tested in the wet and mud. have not been riding lately , due health,
    so everything LE/LA, limited edition/limited availability.
    cheers, Rob

  39. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rakuman View Post
    This new one is not as intense in the spill as the solid frosted rim but big improvements in throw.
    My goal with these mods is to have a pair of XM-L bar lights that I can you use in every situation thats why one flood and one with a smoothed out throw that in an instant I can tilt one light up or down to bomb down that fireroad at 30+ or that tight singletrack. By themselves they are OK better than stock spot XM-L for the bars but used as a pair that's were they shine.

    Cat what I would really like to try is the Ray2 reflector in this XM-L light head it would be great if you could get some good flood without diffusing the light at all.



    So...I don't have a sandblaster. What about using an opaque paint pen? Or even an opaque paint pen used for high heat environments like engine blocks? Would that maybe work?

  40. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by apacherider View Post
    So...I don't have a sandblaster. What about using an opaque paint pen? Or even an opaque paint pen used for high heat environments like engine blocks? Would that maybe work?
    What about steel wool or sandpaper?
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  41. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by randyharris View Post
    What about steel wool or sandpaper?
    I was thinking about that too. Or a dremel with a sanding attachment?

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    You have to sand blast for this to work, I am a Glass artist and If you have ever seen sandblasted clear glass with a light behind it you will notice the frosted part seems to glow and what makes it glow so intensely is by blasting the glass you are make little miniature refractory points imagine a million microscopic mirrors and with a light source is applied it lights up..
    The one thing the XM-L lacks is intense spill, so my theory was the edges of the reflector is basically wasted so what if we had microscopic mirrors that will catch the light and bounce it back to the reflector which in turn bounces to the other side of the reflector over and over again eventually exiting the front as more light in the spill.
    My experment concluded that if you want mass flood blast it with the solid ring but you will lose throw. and it you want some flood + almost maximum throw use the pet screen ring what that does is let more light thru in turn more throw
    Im not using any of these lense since I got a MJ872, mass flood then a put a XM-L next to it for maximum throw
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  43. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rakuman View Post
    You have to sand blast for this to work, I am a Glass artist and If you have ever seen sandblasted clear glass with a light behind it you will notice the frosted part seems to glow and what makes it glow so intensely is by blasting the glass you are make little miniature refractory points imagine a million microscopic mirrors and with a light source is applied it lights up..
    The one thing the XM-L lacks is intense spill, so my theory was the edges of the reflector is basically wasted so what if we had microscopic mirrors that will catch the light and bounce it back to the reflector which in turn bounces to the other side of the reflector over and over again eventually exiting the front as more light in the spill.
    My experment concluded that if you want mass flood blast it with the solid ring but you will lose throw. and it you want some flood + almost maximum throw use the pet screen ring what that does is let more light thru in turn more throw
    Im not using any of these lense since I got a MJ872, mass flood then a put a XM-L next to it for maximum throw
    Ahh, I see. I just got one of the Magicshine XML's that have a perfectly smooth reflector. It's like the ultimate spot beam for long distance but lacks spill. I'm trying to come up with a way to easily jerry rig it. I have a few weeks to figure it out before the days get short enough to really start using the light religiously.

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    Can two light heads be run off of ONE battery pack? Or would that trip the circuits?

  45. #145
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    I've had excellent results using the action wide angle lens on ebay. It more than doubles the width of the beam with only minor reductions in throw and intensity (20% is my estimate) and it also flattens the beam on the top so there's less light spill going up in the air where it's not usable to you and it's less annoying to on comming traffic (I haven't had one car flash it's brights at me or any bad comments from pedestrians or other cyclists since I installed this lens). It's not as pretty as Rakuman's custom optics though.
    Rakuman I got an idea looking at you optics. I noticed you used a symetrical pattern which should widen the beam in every direction. I would think that if you only modified the sections that widen the beam side to side and down you should get the same flood and retain more of the throw. It might not make a huge difference but every little bit helps.

  46. #146
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    I tried that didn't work! if I remember right I tried leaving the top and bottom of the ring clear and it kind of lost the flood effect I think because seeing it is round it needs to bounce off every angle of the reflector to increase the spill brightness, This does not make the spill wider it just makes it brighter much brighter.
    I have tried those ones off ebay and they seem to work great ,
    didnt take it on the trail thou, the day it came in the mail, so did my MJ872 after that I retired my experimenting with XM-Ls they were kind of a moot point compared to all that flood..
    I always type in bold cuz I'm blind as a bat
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  47. #147
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    Why not drill a hole out of the center of the action wide angle lens and place it over the clear glass lens? That would direct light normally thrown upward more to the side, while retaining much throw.

  48. #148
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    Does the specification is measured by the ways of ANSI standard?(output, waterproof, or others)

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