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  1. #76
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    From another forum

    For those of you who have gotten the replacement batteries - The LED indicator might turn RED sooner than expected even though you have a fully charged pack.

    Here is the official explanation from Geomangear:

    "We understand you are seeing some variations in the color indicator. We have referred this issue to our battery manufacturer and they have examined the discharge rates of the Panasonic cells we use and the other cells that Magicshine has used in a number of battery packs. The cells from different manufacturers discharge at different rates and the voltage meter in the lighthead was designed to compliment the chinese cells rather than the Panasonic cells we use. The burntime will be the same as listed however the color indicators will change faster with the Panasonic cells. We have posted color change estimates on our website that you might see with the GeoManGear battery packs.

    Our battery pack manufacturer is looking at solutions to this issue however we will only use the Panasonic cells and we don't manufacture the lightheads so it will be a difficult issue to overcome.

    We are not seeing any diminished runtime, only lighthead indicator colors are showing change earlier than the original Chinese battery packs as discussed above.

    Thanks
    GeoManGear"



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  2. #77
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    In regards to weatherproofing. Clear GE silicone caulk is good up to at least 400F, so that should make for a bombproof seal.

    In regards to heating problems. There is a very thermally conductive "caulk" that is used to conduct heat from electronic devices, like power amps, to their heat sinks. Using this and some aluminum tubing one should be able to wrap 12-20 4-8" tubes around the 872 and dramatically increase the size of the heat sink. Drilling holes along the sides of the tubes will make them even more effective, as will larger diameters.

    Old TV antenna rods should work well. Another ready source of quality aluminum is knitting needles. They come in many sizes and lengths, and even in double pointed versions. Again, drilling holes along the length of the tubes will help them dump heat.

    Some kind of funnel shaped air scoop might also help, as would a spray bottle attachment stuck into a hydration pack's mouth tube. Think water-cooled machine guns.

  3. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreyBard View Post
    In regards to weatherproofing. Clear GE silicone caulk is good up to at least 400F, so that should make for a bombproof seal.

    In regards to heating problems. There is a very thermally conductive "caulk" that is used to conduct heat from electronic devices, like power amps, to their heat sinks. Using this and some aluminum tubing one should be able to wrap 12-20 4-8" tubes around the 872 and dramatically increase the size of the heat sink. Drilling holes along the sides of the tubes will make them even more effective, as will larger diameters.

    Old TV antenna rods should work well. Another ready source of quality aluminum is knitting needles. They come in many sizes and lengths, and even in double pointed versions. Again, drilling holes along the length of the tubes will help them dump heat.

    Some kind of funnel shaped air scoop might also help, as would a spray bottle attachment stuck into a hydration pack's mouth tube. Think water-cooled machine guns.
    Huh, are you kidding me. Why should you have to do all that to a new light beside making the thing look hideous. You can buy the MJ-856 which has the exact same specs and beam pattern as the MJ-872 in a package that should cool much better. It's 4.6mm larger in diameter and for some maybe not as attractive as the 872 but that's the one I've ordered because clearly the 872 has some overheating issues.

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  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by skidad View Post
    Huh, are you kidding me. Why should you have to do all that to a new light beside making the thing look hideous. You can buy the MJ-856 which has the exact same specs and beam pattern as the MJ-872 in a package that should cool much better. It's 4.6mm larger in diameter and for some maybe not as attractive as the 872 but that's the one I've ordered because clearly the 872 has some overheating issues.
    One guy who has rides in 100 degree temps and has overheating issues does not mean the general user will. Ive used it in 90 with zero issues. I like this light so much I'm planning on getting another
    I always type in bold cuz I'm blind as a bat
    For the Rich there is therapy!!!! for the rest of us we have Mountain Biking


  5. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by skidad View Post
    Huh, are you kidding me. Why should you have to do all that to a new light beside making the thing look hideous. You can buy the MJ-856 which has the exact same specs and beam pattern as the MJ-872 in a package that should cool much better. It's 4.6mm larger in diameter and for some maybe not as attractive as the 872 but that's the one I've ordered because clearly the 872 has some overheating issues.
    I agree, I am not sure I want to slap green, yelllow, and pink knitting needles onto the sides of my light with caulking.... then drill them out....

    Night riding in CA, unless doing so in Death Valley, usually gets no hotter than 85.... and if its that hot (I am a woose) I wouldn't go....

    Overheating issues should be taken with an eye to your own local weather. I am Northern CA, Most nights, even when its 100 degs in the day.... drops to the 70's at night. Also consider road vs MTB where road speeds will help carry off heat from the light more efficiently.

    The light has not been around long enough for any true measure of reliability. My opinion is that the light may indeed get really hot internally. So much so that it will drastically shorten the life of the LED/driver/etc....

    *BUT*, in the last 7 years, I have purchased 5 different sets of lights.... all increasing light output with each iteration. I may not be the norm.... but I am willing to wager I will replace/upgrade the light long before it wears out on its own.

  6. #81
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    Man, you guys can really get testy about these things. I've done many rides with my MJ-872 over the last couple months since I bought it and worked on my overheating issues - and I love it. I usually go out with a MJ-808 strapped to the bar as well, but I never use it. I like the broad flood and smooth transition from the 872 even better than the two of them mixed together. Bright spots hurt technical riding ability IMO.

    If I were to buy another, and I may (my wife rides, too) I would get the MJ-856, or buy the MJ-872 from GeomanGear for the additional US support. I still think there is a possibility I have a bad unit, but it is working fine for my purposes.

    So, other than my 872 and 808, my other experiences with lights have been NiteRider. I got a set of two halogen lights back in 95 or so that were good at the time, and quite reliable. Then in the mid 2000s I bought a NR Blowtorch HID light. Heavy, and unreliable with a terrible flicker at speed. I've had two bulbs go out on me mid-ride. I would much rather spend the money on two Magicshines, than bet my ride on one expensive unit. Redundancy is good.

  7. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by dobbs View Post
    Man, you guys can really get testy about these things. I've done many rides with my MJ-872 over the last couple months since I bought it and worked on my overheating issues - and I love it. I usually go out with a MJ-808 strapped to the bar as well, but I never use it. I like the broad flood and smooth transition from the 872 even better than the two of them mixed together. Bright spots hurt technical riding ability IMO.

    If I were to buy another, and I may (my wife rides, too) I would get the MJ-856, or buy the MJ-872 from GeomanGear for the additional US support. I still think there is a possibility I have a bad unit, but it is working fine for my purposes.

    So, other than my 872 and 808, my other experiences with lights have been NiteRider. I got a set of two halogen lights back in 95 or so that were good at the time, and quite reliable. Then in the mid 2000s I bought a NR Blowtorch HID light. Heavy, and unreliable with a terrible flicker at speed. I've had two bulbs go out on me mid-ride. I would much rather spend the money on two Magicshines, than bet my ride on one expensive unit. Redundancy is good.
    Dont take may bold type as testy Im just blind and like to be able to see what Ive typed
    It does not matter which light you buy I just like to point out the facts.. that one guys issue isn't everyone's
    I always type in bold cuz I'm blind as a bat
    For the Rich there is therapy!!!! for the rest of us we have Mountain Biking


  8. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80 View Post
    These sorts of things are the problem for me and why I'm perfectly content to spend more money on reliable lights of better design. I've been stuck in dark rural mosquito infested areas with a failed light. Believe me, at at time like that the marginal incremental cost of a good light seems pretty negligible. (It's also the reason to always have a backup light even with a good light.) The whole thing is just an unsavory and dangerous experience that the incremental money more than makes up for.

    J.
    I'm convinced that JohnJ80 feels the need to get involved with all the Magicshine/budget light threads to justify to himself for spending so much on his lights.

    Personally, if there was a product that I wasn't interested in for myself, I'd have very little to say about it, and certainly wouldn't spend countless time talking about it.

    But hey, I'm weird like that

  9. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by fightnut View Post
    I'm convinced that JohnJ80 feels the need to get involved with all the Magicshine/budget light threads to justify to himself for spending so much on his lights.

    Personally, if there was a product that I wasn't interested in for myself, I'd have very little to say about it, and certainly wouldn't spend countless time talking about it.

    But hey, I'm weird like that
    Seriously, what are the odds of both MagicShine lights failing on the same ride? Pretty damn low, I would think. Odds of my MJ-872 overheating on a 105 degree nightride - pretty high. But the solution is easy. Turn it off when you are not moving; don't run the light higher than 50% on a slow climb. Even when it has overheated, it's still usable, it just runs at a lower intensity.

  10. #85
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    Followup on my impressions of the light. Ran the road bike last night with 872 and MS900 on the bars + Dinotte 400L on the lid. Road ride, 20.2 ave with more than a few stops at red lights and a late night drop-off at the library. Did it at 11pm at night.

    Had all lights on high. Cars SLOWED down for me as I approached.... some slowed down and looked when going in the same direction... it was creepy since it was so late. All I think were just curious, and not malicious.

    Pushing close to 2000 lumnes out the front with a significant (probably 40%) going into the atmosphere. Approaching parked trailers I had a GREAT view of all their reflective tape so I know I had a lot of light above the horrizon. I pointed both bar lights down to hit about 25' in front of me. 50' seemed too far off and decreased intensity.

    The P7 alone used to be nice, but now that I have the 872 with a wide, smooth, and even swath of light,.... I am no longer happy with the P7 (or even a dual P7 setup). The bright center spot just draws the eye into too small of an area to really have a good scan of the ground. The 872 is awsome in that respect. Aimed ~25' in front of me, I have a solid and pretty even bar of light from my front wheel out beyond the center focus area of the light. The P7 can't hope to have such great coverage.

    The down-side is that this think probably dazzles other drivers.... hate to think what it would do to a unsuspecting cyclist going the wrong way in the bike lane (as often happens where I live). I would guess they would be blinded for a bit not making it safe for them or me.

    The 400L on the lid is nice, but with 2000 lumens, my guess is that my pupils we "stopping down" the light my eyes were seeing since it so damn bright. The 400L just can't keep up. Its usefull, but just marginally. Taking turns at speed, where my head is spotting my exit line, I can feel my eyes strain to try to adjust to he sudden drop in light. (going from 2000 to 250 lumens is a big drop).

    I rode on the levee where there are basically no lights... these lights rock. I can travel as fast as I want and do not fear not having enought reaction time to stop. Topped 33mph on the ride, no issues.

    I kinda wish it had more throw, but REALLY like the spread. I think the next step, if there is one, is to run two lights, one 872 and one spot with a pencil beam to blaze a path down the road.

  11. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by hiroshima View Post
    Followup on my impressions of the light. Ran the road bike last night with 872 and MS900 on the bars + Dinotte 400L on the lid. Road ride, 20.2 ave with more than a few stops at red lights and a late night drop-off at the library. Did it at 11pm at night.

    Had all lights on high. Cars SLOWED down for me as I approached.... some slowed down and looked when going in the same direction... it was creepy since it was so late. All I think were just curious, and not malicious.

    Pushing close to 2000 lumnes out the front with a significant (probably 40%) going into the atmosphere. Approaching parked trailers I had a GREAT view of all their reflective tape so I know I had a lot of light above the horrizon. I pointed both bar lights down to hit about 25' in front of me. 50' seemed too far off and decreased intensity.

    The P7 alone used to be nice, but now that I have the 872 with a wide, smooth, and even swath of light,.... I am no longer happy with the P7 (or even a dual P7 setup). The bright center spot just draws the eye into too small of an area to really have a good scan of the ground. The 872 is awsome in that respect. Aimed ~25' in front of me, I have a solid and pretty even bar of light from my front wheel out beyond the center focus area of the light. The P7 can't hope to have such great coverage.

    The down-side is that this think probably dazzles other drivers.... hate to think what it would do to a unsuspecting cyclist going the wrong way in the bike lane (as often happens where I live). I would guess they would be blinded for a bit not making it safe for them or me.

    The 400L on the lid is nice, but with 2000 lumens, my guess is that my pupils we "stopping down" the light my eyes were seeing since it so damn bright. The 400L just can't keep up. Its usefull, but just marginally. Taking turns at speed, where my head is spotting my exit line, I can feel my eyes strain to try to adjust to he sudden drop in light. (going from 2000 to 250 lumens is a big drop).

    I rode on the levee where there are basically no lights... these lights rock. I can travel as fast as I want and do not fear not having enought reaction time to stop. Topped 33mph on the ride, no issues.

    I kinda wish it had more throw, but REALLY like the spread. I think the next step, if there is one, is to run two lights, one 872 and one spot with a pencil beam to blaze a path down the road.
    Pair it with a XM-L next to it like lesoudeur and Me its unbelievably bright you don't miss much with that XM-L lighting everything within 100 yards and the 872 picking up everything close. I find myself going faster than I do in the day cuz the ruts don't look as deep
    I always type in bold cuz I'm blind as a bat
    For the Rich there is therapy!!!! for the rest of us we have Mountain Biking


  12. #87
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    LED surround blemish

    Ok, I just got my new MJ-856 (872 in different housing) and noticed maybe a little problem. Would like to get some experienced opinions as this is my first light.

    In the shiny area that surrounds 2 of the LED's there are small chips or blemishes. 1 on each of the LED surrounds. Not to big on either but looks like something that would happen if you tightened down to much on plastic and it chipped a little. Actually now that I look really close only 1 of the shiny area surrounds of the 4 LED's is really perfect without a blemish of some sort.

    I presume I should return this if it's gonna affect the light?

    Very speedy shipping from BrightStone in NC BTW and a brand new MS 5.6Ah battery with Samsung cells is now available. GeoMan doesn't plan to stock the MJ-856 version light.

    Thanks all
    Last edited by skidad; 09-22-2011 at 05:08 PM.
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  13. #88
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    New vs Old optic on the mj-872 Hi

    I got 2 MJ-872 with the "old" flod beam optic, have anyone compared the new optic with the old one. im close to order one to get mor pencilbeam on one of the lights.

    But have anyone seen both optics to compare the difference ?

    Regards

  14. #89
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    What about MJ-870?

    Hi,
    Anybody who has any impressions and experience with MJ-870? Every of you bought MJ-872 so I am the only person who ordered an MJ-870? (Ordered 3 weeks ago from DX, I will get it soon, I guess. I will give you some info if anyone is interested in. Anyway, I also have an updated MJ-808, not the Cree led one but the older P7 led version. Thus, I can do some comparison between those lights.)

  15. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by pena40 View Post
    New vs Old optic on the mj-872 Hi

    I got 2 MJ-872 with the "old" flod beam optic, have anyone compared the new optic with the old one. im close to order one to get mor pencilbeam on one of the lights.

    But have anyone seen both optics to compare the difference ?

    Regards
    There are lots of posts around with beamshots of the 872 but I have not seen a side by side between the old and new optic. Obviously the shots from the very beginning of this thread are the old optic and most likely more floody than the new one. Even so the beam on the new one is a 25 degree so pretty wide. Not sure how long the older optic version was in production but they must have changed it for a reason. Maybe you could get an exchange for the new optic light heads? GeoMan could probably answer this question best. Shoot him a PM or email.
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  16. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by pena40 View Post
    New vs Old optic on the mj-872 Hi

    I got 2 MJ-872 with the "old" flod beam optic, have anyone compared the new optic with the old one. im close to order one to get mor pencilbeam on one of the lights.

    But have anyone seen both optics to compare the difference ?

    Regards
    This light, with the new optic will never be a pencil beam. I have not had both versions, but I do have the current version (with the clear optic) and this is a flood light through-and-through. If you need a pencil beam, look to another light-head entirely. Geoman has spare clear lenses they were giving away a month or so back for those who had the old version. eMail them and they may still have some left.

  17. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by pena40 View Post
    New vs Old optic on the mj-872 Hi

    I got 2 MJ-872 with the "old" flod beam optic, have anyone compared the new optic with the old one. im close to order one to get mor pencilbeam on one of the lights.

    But have anyone seen both optics to compare the difference ?

    Regards
    Just recieved the new optic and i can say the new optic is much better in every way.

    Lux of the P7 37
    Lux of the XML 44
    Lux of the old optic 65
    Lux with new optic 85

    The beam pattern is much more uniform too, the old light is just a splurge of light, the new one has a defined flood, although the edges do have definition they fade out nicely.

    I did notice when changing the optic, the star had come off the body, if this is the case on lots of these lights, this may be a cause of everyones overheating issues.

    I find only low mode stays proper cool while riding, the other modes do get warm even when moving

  18. #93
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    Finally, I received my MJ-870. At this moment, I don't have any experience with it on the mountain trails, but I'm wondering about that the lamp is still equipped with the old lens and not with the new clear one... So I will try to find the way how to get the updated lens. Nevertheless, the build quality is much better than my old MJ-808's and in spite of that this model has 'only' 3 Cree XP-Gs, the light output is apparently much bigger than at my MJ-808. Can't wait to try it on the trails...

  19. #94
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    How to cool

    Quote Originally Posted by hiroshima View Post
    I agree, I am not sure I want to slap green, yelllow, and pink knitting needles onto the sides of my light with caulking.... then drill them out....

    Night riding in CA, unless doing so in Death Valley, usually gets no hotter than 85.... and if its that hot (I am a woose) I wouldn't go....

    Overheating issues should be taken with an eye to your own local weather. I am Northern CA, Most nights, even when its 100 degs in the day.... drops to the 70's at night. Also consider road vs MTB where road speeds will help carry off heat from the light more efficiently.

    The light has not been around long enough for any true measure of reliability. My opinion is that the light may indeed get really hot internally. So much so that it will drastically shorten the life of the LED/driver/etc....

    *BUT*, in the last 7 years, I have purchased 5 different sets of lights.... all increasing light output with each iteration. I may not be the norm.... but I am willing to wager I will replace/upgrade the light long before it wears out on its own.
    Interesting choice of colors there. Knitting needles come in all kinds of colors, so you'd pick one that's palatable.

    @hiroshima, A question was asked on the 1st page about cooling, and no response was given - other than the implied one of "dig a hole and bury the light you just paid good money for, and buy a new one". If you don't have a cooling issue, why comment? Clearly my post was not directed at you.

    Your response implies you have faith that the newly designed case will solve the problem. I doubt that is going to be true, because I've spent a lot of time studying how electronic devices are heat-sinked, and that case design is NOT very effective. It might look pretty, but it won't sink heat well. Most people will think it works super-awesome, because they didn't have a heat problem in the 1st place, just a lot of loose change burning a hole in their pockets.

    If your shiny new toy doesn't stay cool enough either, get back to me, I'm actually knowledgeable in this area and have some constructive ideas to offer. Even if they aren't pretty enough to put a sparkle in your eyes, they won't leave you stranded high on a mtn somewhere.

  20. #95
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    Redundancy is better

    Quote Originally Posted by dobbs View Post
    Man, you guys can really get testy about these things. I've done many rides with my MJ-872 over the last couple months since I bought it and worked on my overheating issues - and I love it. I usually go out with a MJ-808 strapped to the bar as well, but I never use it. I like the broad flood and smooth transition from the 872 even better than the two of them mixed together. Bright spots hurt technical riding ability IMO.

    If I were to buy another, and I may (my wife rides, too) I would get the MJ-856, or buy the MJ-872 from GeomanGear for the additional US support. I still think there is a possibility I have a bad unit, but it is working fine for my purposes.

    So, other than my 872 and 808, my other experiences with lights have been NiteRider. I got a set of two halogen lights back in 95 or so that were good at the time, and quite reliable. Then in the mid 2000s I bought a NR Blowtorch HID light. Heavy, and unreliable with a terrible flicker at speed. I've had two bulbs go out on me mid-ride. I would much rather spend the money on two Magicshines, than bet my ride on one expensive unit. Redundancy is good.
    I was going to make the same point. You can have completely redundant power and lamps and still more redundancy for taillights and last-ditch PB Blaze 2W up front.

    The chances that you'd be in the middle of a treacherous descent and have all of that fail at once are infinitesimal, and much less than the failure of any single device no matter how much it costs.

    If all of that fails at once, just relax and enjoy being whisked into another Galaxy by aliens who found you interesting, and decided to take you for a pet.

  21. #96
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    Mine just arrived! First ride tonight.




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    pulled the trigger for a 2600 lumens combo: 808E XML $ 872.

    Just cant wait to test them.

  23. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by skidad View Post
    Ok, I just got my new MJ-856 (872 in different housing) and noticed maybe a little problem. Would like to get some experienced opinions as this is my first light.

    In the shiny area that surrounds 2 of the LED's there are small chips or blemishes. 1 on each of the LED surrounds. Not to big on either but looks like something that would happen if you tightened down to much on plastic and it chipped a little. Actually now that I look really close only 1 of the shiny area surrounds of the 4 LED's is really perfect without a blemish of some sort.

    I presume I should return this if it's gonna affect the light?

    Very speedy shipping from BrightStone in NC BTW and a brand new MS 5.6Ah battery with Samsung cells is now available. GeoMan doesn't plan to stock the MJ-856 version light.

    Thanks all
    Well I got no answers to my question but I did end up returning the lamp head only to BrightStone Sports in NC and they returned to me a perfect MJ-856 lamp head ASAP. They have been great all through the order process with all my questions and were very apologetic about the 1st lamp head. They also gave me their advertised 5% discount when you spend $200 or more even when my order didn't hit the $200 mark. Nice...every bit helps.

    Link...BrightStoneSports - MagicShine Bike Light and Accessories | Magic Shine MJ-808 | MJ-808e | MJ-816 | MJ-818 | MJ-856 | MJ-872 | ...
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  24. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreyBard View Post
    If all of that fails at once, just relax and enjoy being whisked into another Galaxy by aliens who found you interesting, and decided to take you for a pet.

  25. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by skidad View Post
    I was told there is one in the works.

    I'm sure with a little work many mounts could be adapted to this light vs the handlebar mount they have now which is a bit tall.

    Ask and you shall receive....O-ring mount version now available of the MJ-856. The mount pictured above which I got is actually pretty nice and a bit better IMO with a few easy mods.

    MagicShine MJ-856b O-ring mount 1600 lumens LED Bike Light Set

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