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  1. #26
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    Reputation: car bone's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    What do you guys think of the ~700 lumen single emitter under 100bux lights found on Actionled?

    Specifically the Magicshine 808 and Gemini Titan p7.

    These are very appealing since they cost almost nothing. How long will one of these last you guys think? Talking mechanical quality (button and seal of button/wire) and durability of the components on the pcb/quality of the design. I know the dual Geminis and Gloworms and triple Dinottes are better, but if I can get 2 years out of one of those under 100bux lights I feel its good quality. My commute is 45minutes one way, often in pouring rain.

    That Titan p7 is tempting. You get over 4hr on the max setting!

    For the rear I was thinking either a Serfas sheild or Cygolite hotshot. But to be honest the Serfas seems MUCH better judging from youtube videos.

    Well its either one of the above for me or a dual gemini/gloworm/triple dinotte, (or possibly also Magicshine and the Fenix) they are all in the same price range kinda. I am expecting some kind of catastrophic failure within 2-3 years (for whatever reason) so I don't really want to spend more than what those cost. And the rear light I'm expecting to work at most 1-1,5 years since its too cheap to be made truly good and long lasting (in my reasoning).

    I just don't know if 5-700 lumens in enough. Then I go for the more powerful ones. I'm afraid I'm gonna get a 5-700lumen and quickly find out its not enough. Then those are money wasted and I'm being an idiot for not going for the better option the first time, thus the lights combined costing like a really really nice one. Except I won't have a really really nice one at the end of the day..

    I'm gonna deciede on what to get over the next few days so if you guys have any negatives about the lights I'm considering, now is the time. And this is usually the eliminating factor for me. I choose the one that has the least problematic (imo) problems

    Any way thanks for your help so far, I have eliminated like 90% of the market now. Not many left now.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  2. #27
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    700 lumens should be fine for road riding. Realize that when people here are advocating lights in the 1200+ range, we're talking about riding on twisty singletrack trails at near daytime speeds.

  3. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Quote Originally Posted by steelhmr View Post
    700 lumens should be fine for road riding. Realize that when people here are advocating lights in the 1200+ range, we're talking about riding on twisty singletrack trails at near daytime speeds.
    it depends what you're trying to achieve. i personally think you need MORE light in the city than in the woods. because in the city you have a lot of glare from car headlights etc and a lot of high contrast checkerboard like lighting where you may have very high brightness under a street light then very dark area under some trees, so if you actually want to see something in that dark patch over HID car headlights in your face you will need a lot of light. on the other hand in the woods you just need to give your eyes time to adjust to the darkness and then as long as the beam pattern shape is right the actual AMOUNT of light is not that critical because you're not competing against other, brighter lights.

    i think most commuter lights are 100% useless, that's why most people just set them to blinking mode.

    and then if you want maximum safety you need to have a beam so powerful that drivers will see reflections of it in other cars, will see shadows cast by it or glass of cars lit up by it before they ever see where it is coming from. you need thousands of lumens for this.

    so it all depends on what you're trying to achieve.

    right now i have 300 lumens on the bar in a shaped beam ( same beam pattern as car low-beam headlights ) with a cutoff above horizon, 3600 lumens on the helmet in a shaped beam but without cutoff ( similar beam shape to car high beams ) and i'm thinking i will add a 140 lumen blinking light on the bar also shaped like car high beams and aimed straight forward. each of the 3 lights will serve a distinctly different purpose with different output levels and beam shapes. you just have to know what you're trying to do, which can be very hard if you're doing it for the first time so as i said buy from where you can return it ...

  4. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation: androgen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    one particular situation in which it is easy to get hurt is when the cars are stopped at a red light and you're riding between them - in this case you are approaching them from behind so they don't see you - however my 3600 lumens on helmet lights up the interiors of their cars big time so they know something is upon them - this happens not only due to sheer output, but also from the high position of the helmet light that allows it to shine into the car interiors as well as the ability to aim the helmet light where you want it. this gives me the kind of safety other cyclists don't have.

    when i was in a car a few weeks ago i almost ran over a few cyclists while making a right turn. i was at a red light, it turned green, so i started making a right turn ( from the right lane ) and that's when i realized there were cyclists between me and the curb - i was barely able to stop in time before hitting them. this was at night. they were actually in a bike lane so maybe i should have looked for them before turning, but reality is most drivers aren't looking for cyclists - but if they had 3000 lumen helmet light my car interior ( particularly the dash ) would light up like its 4th of July when they were still 20 feet away and i would not make that turn without first finding out where the light is coming from.

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