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  1. #1
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    Light and Motion Taz 1200 or Exposure Axis Mk4 for helmet mount

    Title says it all. It appears that the Exposure is the easiest to mount and looks the lightest. It's about $50 more. The Taz looks brighter and beefier, but the mounting looks to be more of a pain and it is heavier.

    I have a Niterider Lumina 950 on the bars.

    What are your thoughts? I think I am leaning towards the Exposure just based on how simple and light it looks. I am sure it will be bright enough when used with the Niterider. You can never have too many lumens though right?

    Is there something better that is self contained and light?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by tooclosetosee View Post
    Title says it all. It appears that the Exposure is the easiest to mount and looks the lightest. It's about $50 more. The Taz looks brighter and beefier, but the mounting looks to be more of a pain and it is heavier.

    I have a Niterider Lumina 950 on the bars.

    What are your thoughts? I think I am leaning towards the Exposure just based on how simple and light it looks. I am sure it will be bright enough when used with the Niterider. You can never have too many lumens though right?

    Is there something better that is self contained and light?
    I own a Taz 1500 and can tell you it would make a horrible helmet light so don't waste your money on it. While I'm sure the exposure is the best light it's performance will only be marginally better than the Niterider at over twice the cost so another 950 Lumina would be a better deal IMO. I'm also going to add a link to a Gloworm CX which is what I would look at if I were interested in running a self-contained light on my helmet. Better performance + over twice the runtime of a Lumina and better quality IMO.
    Mole

    https://www.action-led-lights.com/co...nt=10434715781

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    I own a Taz 1500 and can tell you it would make a horrible helmet light so don't waste your money on it. While I'm sure the exposure is the best light it's performance will only be marginally better than the Niterider at over twice the cost so another 950 Lumina would be a better deal IMO. I'm also going to add a link to a Gloworm CX which is what I would look at if I were interested in running a self-contained light on my helmet. Better performance + over twice the runtime of a Lumina and better quality IMO.
    Mole

    https://www.action-led-lights.com/co...nt=10434715781
    Agreed about the Taz being a horrible helmet light. I love my 1500 on the bars, but I'd never have it on my helmet

    EDIT: The Trail 1000 would probably be good. I have the Trail 850 and love it. Def light enough to have on a helmet
    Trail 1000 Ranger Fast Charge - Light & Motion
    '16 Kona Honzo AL/DL

  4. #4
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    [QUOTE]
    Quote Originally Posted by tylercall88 View Post
    Agreed about the Taz being a horrible helmet light. I love my 1500 on the bars, but I'd never have it on my helmet

    EDIT: The Trail 1000 would probably be good. I have the Trail 850 and love it. Def light enough to have on a helmet
    Trail 1000 Ranger Fast Charge - Light & Motion
    Thanks for the link on the Trail 1000. Included Gopro mount a big deal IMO. Runtime still an issue for me but my rides are usually fairly long. Good option for those looking for a self-contained helmet light that doesn't weigh too much.
    Mole

  5. #5
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    An Oculus 1800 Ultra mounted on the helmet works great, was used by many at the Gallup New Mexico 24 Hour MTB Championship with very successful results vs previous lights the racers had used.
    Also costs much less than the Taz, and comes with a spare battery ready to go.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikelighting View Post
    An Oculus 1800 Ultra mounted on the helmet works great, was used by many at the Gallup New Mexico 24 Hour MTB Championship with very successful results vs previous lights the racers had used.
    Also costs much less than the Taz, and comes with a spare battery ready to go.
    You must be joking.

  7. #7
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    Try it for yourself or arrange a test ride, depending where you live. At Gallup, there were 60 rentals, 20+ converted to purchases after the race, and a store owner made a wholesale order based on using one in the race.
    Wrt the Taz, a good three LED light like the Taz or Oculus will illuminate so much better than a single LED light like the Lumina. Btw the Oculus weighs 205g with lightweight battery, 10 grams less than the Taz.
    The advantages of multiple LEDs and better optics vs a single LED pothole spotter design like the Lumina become greater when longer burn times are needed, because lower settings can be used due to the beam spreading more evenly and there isn't an overpowering bright spot to diminish your peripheral vision. LEDs don't have a linear power to output curve. Half power is ~55-60% as bright. Same brightness as one LED at full power can be made with three LEDs at ~15% less power,
    so burn time is ~15% longer.

  8. #8
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    Axis or Joystick actually designed as helmet lights, both lightweight, and plenty bright enough for technical forest trails.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikelighting View Post
    An Oculus 1800 Ultra mounted on the helmet works great, was used by many at the Gallup New Mexico 24 Hour MTB Championship with very successful results vs previous lights the racers had used.
    Also costs much less than the Taz, and comes with a spare battery ready to go.
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikelighting View Post
    Try it for yourself or arrange a test ride, depending where you live. At Gallup, there were 60 rentals, 20+ converted to purchases after the race, and a store owner made a wholesale order based on using one in the race.
    Wrt the Taz, a good three LED light like the Taz or Oculus will illuminate so much better than a single LED light like the Lumina. Btw the Oculus weighs 205g with lightweight battery, 10 grams less than the Taz.
    The advantages of multiple LEDs and better optics vs a single LED pothole spotter design like the Lumina become greater when longer burn times are needed, because lower settings can be used due to the beam spreading more evenly and there isn't an overpowering bright spot to diminish your peripheral vision. LEDs don't have a linear power to output curve. Half power is ~55-60% as bright. Same brightness as one LED at full power can be made with three LEDs at ~15% less power,
    so burn time is ~15% longer.
    Mister, you are truly insane. Why would anybody on this forum do business with a person like you? Are you oblivious to the rest of the world?

  11. #11
    founder, Oculus Lights.
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    misinformation

    Why would you make such an uninformed statement?
    Light and Motion Taz 1200 or Exposure Axis Mk4 for helmet mount-429a7753.jpg

    Call the office at (323) 487-2002 for any real information you want instead of the misinformation that you appear to have been misled into acting on.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikelighting View Post
    Why would you make such an uninformed statement?
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	429A7753.jpg 
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    Call the office at (323) 487-2002 for any real information you want instead of the misinformation that you appear to have been misled into acting on.
    About your mental state? I think that statement is pretty well informed. I am curious though, as to why you do not engage your detractor. You act as though as is well in Oculos land. Initially, I was interested in your light, but after witnessing your bizarre behavior, that interest is long gone. And youíve got no one but yourself to blame.

  13. #13
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    (-: for sure. Sometimes a bunch of thoughts presented in a dense stream of consciousness gets its out best.

  14. #14
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    deleted a couple of posts - cannot post a users real name.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikelighting View Post
    Why would you make such an uninformed statement?
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	429A7753.jpg 
Views:	20 
Size:	109.2 KB 
ID:	1172074

    Call the office at (323) 487-2002 for any real information you want instead of the misinformation that you appear to have been misled into acting on.
    that water,
    in that picture,
    is not 'wet' enough...as rain water is, as shown by the bubbles.
    the bubbles are a dead giveaway that water has about 'null' electrolytes in it.
    ..anyhow, that is not wet like riding soup that's for sure

    pure water does not conduct electric current. that pic looks like how pure water would act. that light could be drowned in pure water for days and not have one electrical issue. any light could go without o-rings and run for hours like that.

    regardless, rain water, rain water mixed with human sweat, and especially puddle or slush or slush water from new england winter road snow melting chemicals, is 'wet', and does conduct electricity fine and dandy. it has electrolytes and does short out cells.



    the oculus example I received would ingress 'wetter water' completely if run upside down as you said should be for MTB...(or even right side up)

    and the high power lithium battery would be able to short across the battery compartment to itself + to - end, and start an electro chemical reaction which would erode the cathode and anode and possibly start a fire then, initiate a runaway condition, or at any other random time, due to degradation x time.

    if not in the first hour, two, or three. then after a few days of such exposure.

    this is why all other 'big name mtb lights' and even 'dirt cheap chinese lights' are 100% sealed top to bottom, side to side, and the internal electronics can be bare boards,

    not your new skool 'we have to think outside the box the ip6 is inside, not outside'

    so,

    to be convincing....perform your tests using water with an electrolyte such as rock salt, and soak that battery bay as (what was my oculus copy would have done) and see what you get after repeated dunks and runs. you would see en erosion of not only the cell itself, but your coating [whatever makes the circuit board ip6] would also erode and then your board would corrode.

    not to mention, if water gets in the light (which it definitely will) how about when it freezes (I commuted ten miles today, at 19degF donchaknow) anything not heated by the led or battery will freeze. if I had water drops anywhere inside, it could expand and even explode if the light were sealed hard enough but somehow water was inside and it wanted to expand.

    so, again, your 'you gotta drop your old way of thinking, ip6 is inside, not outside', doesn't make a practical and usable light. there are far too many 'gotchas' and 'well you just aren't using it correctly'

    those are the facts for all hardcore bikers who are not in Sunny Southern California.
    we get wet, we get wet with dirty water, dirty water corrodes, lab pure water does not.

    there is testing in a lab, then there is 'real world testing'. to pull off a valid water test for a road bike light, it needs to be 100% sealed, because real world water is 'wetter' and likely to be sweat-mixed and maybe some snot too.

    ---

    also

    you said for mtb the light should be run upside down for a better wider (the two led at top) beam...that cannot be done for two reasons and also a 3rd reason

    1) control cables in the way. no one is going to modify mtb cable routing to accept an underbar light. cables in way, produce distracting artifacts

    2) your light, which does a good job of road bike downward and side spill, mounted upside down, will produce dazzling and unwanted spill upward, simply blinding the operator. no one is going to want to have to tape up, cover, mask, or throw a sock over the light just to go mtb riding. so, your idea 'mount upside down' wont' really work.

    3) beam would still be too narrow for the type of riding I do, or many of us do, which is balls out, on the edge, big rocks, tight turns, need monster floody throw. not a narrow beam with weak spill. this doesn't mean your optics are bad, they are just bad for MTB, not all that bad for road.
    Last edited by 127.0.0.1; 1 Day Ago at 05:15 PM.
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 127.0.0.1 View Post
    that water,
    in that picture,
    is not 'wet' enough...as rain water is, as shown by the bubbles.
    the bubbles are a dead giveaway that water has about 'null' electrolytes in it.
    ..anyhow, that is not wet like riding soup that's for sure
    In that image the light looks to be fully submerged in water. Those bubbles look like o2 that latched on to the surface of the light once it was submerged.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Klurejr View Post
    In that image the light looks to be fully submerged in water. Those bubbles look like o2 that latched on to the surface of the light once it was submerged.
    yeah true. can't really know about the water chemical makeup in a picture. I am making assumptions as I been taught by oculus lighting corp, llc limited, inc.. post -any pic-, oculus will tell you all the real story behind it.

    so, taking oculus lead, I am telling you he is using lab pure water in that pic. good enough for oculus to assume, good enough for me.

    however, the story about my light leaks bad (yup) and the water that will get in it will be full of electrically conducting salts, is bona-fide true. 100% guaranteed to short the cell.
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

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