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  1. #151
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    Dont be cheap. Those inserts will cost a few bucks...and will improve heat transfer by at least 500%. I will overhaull my light to the point, it will match the original MJ880.

  2. #152
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    K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    Quote Originally Posted by bhocewar View Post
    Dont be cheap. Those inserts will cost a few bucks...
    To be fair the light head is only $29. So how much more of an investment are we looking at here? If it dies you can just grab another cheapo light head. Also it looks like the heatsinking is not as good but how much of an issue Is it really? Is there a good way to measure that?

    I did see some people on the blf forums make a heat sink from thick copper wire and solder. Then put it in with a bunch of thermal paste. That may be a budget option

  3. #153
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    About $15 in material/not including labour/including a few other tricks.
    Thermal managment is the most important thing in light design and its performance.

  4. #154
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    K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    Quote Originally Posted by bhocewar View Post
    Finaly...I got a new version KD XML2 880 clone. Head unit only.
    http://www.kaidomain.com/Product/Details.S022641
    Got some good and some bad news.

    Let me start with good ones.
    -it has indeed XML2 leds
    -it has standard Magicshine connector (picture on KD site shows connector from old XML series)
    -you get two mounting silicone o-rings and both are small size, so you get a good tension on a handlebar.
    -very fast delivery. Less than 3 weeks.



    and the bad news
    -very poorly packed. Only bubble wrap and standard chinese envelope. But it survived the journey.
    -very poor heat transfer design (SSX2 alike). It has slightly different design compare to first version with XMLs.


    Does not have leds on stars and inserts but leds are on a custom one piece backplate that fits very loosely.
    You can see heat transfer contact area on a picture above. It is only that middle area with some thermal paste on it and some
    random contact points at the edges. The main middle wall is thicker compare to old one and if there werent those
    huge holes drilled out, but just two small ones for cables, it would have sufficient heat transfer. But now it needs
    overhaull!!!! I will make some solid alu inserts to pressfit in those holes and make a bigger contact.
    I think that this light is not very good as it is...it is not plug&play, but if you upgrade it, it could be very good.
    Driver looks the same.

    Tomorrow I will be able to compare brightness between this one and the first XML version.
    Well my two light heads showed up. Same issue. What size inserts are you making? It would save me from trying to shove some calipers in there!

    Thanks!

  5. #155
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    I am making inserts to mod it with TIR optic lenses, so it is a different size. You need just to fill those holes... 18mm dia and cca 4mm thickness.

  6. #156
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    K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    Quote Originally Posted by bhocewar View Post
    I am making inserts to mod it with TIR optic lenses, so it is a different size. You need just to fill those holes... 18mm dia and cca 4mm thickness.
    Are you making them thicker? Post up some pics of your work when u get there!

  7. #157
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    Eventually you can make them thicker to heatsink the driver also.
    @bhocewar what tir lenses are you going to use?

  8. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    Eventually you can make them thicker to heatsink the driver also.
    @bhocewar what tir lenses are you going to use?
    ...or you heat it up...
    I will use regular 20mm TIR optics (21mm with plastic housing) 10+25 maybe 2x25 for handlebar

    more... when it`s done.

  9. #159
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    It depends on whether the driver needs cooling or not.

    I was thinking about 15 and 30 for a handlebar. But now I am using 7 XM-L as a bar light and 880 clone will move to a helmet light so I probably won't change anything.

  10. #160
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    K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    My fasttech optics showed up today. Loose fit. Needs to be raised a mm or 2. I fit them anyway with 15/30 combo just to see how it looks. Beam pattern loses the hot spot. Def more flood. But for now I'll run stock until i feel like messing with it. Comparing against my friends yinding light. That thing is 1/2 the size and same amount of light. With a better beam pattern.

  11. #161
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    Here is an upgraded 880 clone. 10+25 optics...I will take some before/after beam shots...




    waterproof test

  12. #162
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    K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    Quote Originally Posted by bhocewar View Post
    Here is an upgraded 880 clone. 10+25 optics...I will take some before/after beam shots...
    Nice work! Inspired me to make a piece for mine so i can use my optics. 15 and 30.

    Much better beam pattern. I am currently running both of my light heads on the bars. I'll do a ride with the modified optics and the stock reflectors to see how I like the difference.

    K/D  2 x XML, MJ880 Clone-imageuploadedbytapatalk1387762126.371516.jpg

  13. #163
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    I have the Kaidomain version. Never opened it or addressed the heat dissipation problem - is that something I should do or it'll die on me?

    With regards to the beam pattern, I simply cut out a cheap plastic lens (intended to mod some common U2 lamp of larger size) and siliconed it on to one half, like this:



    I tried spreading the light from both LEDs but for me this strikes a good balance. Easy, cheap and ugly. But this lamp would still blind people and oncoming traffic so I also added a cap, cut out from a schampoo bottle.

    Unfortunately, the cable is complete junk and as you can see the cover is broken already (same goes for the battery pack cable on the other end):



    In your minds, what's the easiest way to repair that? Heat shrink tubing would require disassembly - maybe one could just as well switch it out to a new cable all together? I dunno. Just put something glueish on it maybe and see if it sticks?

    Anyways, the performance is good. It hangs upside down like this:


  14. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by bjorsa View Post
    ...Anyways, the performance is good. It hangs upside down like this:

    ...I think you have redefined the term, butt-ugly..

    That has to be the largest lamp hood I have ever seen. With the lamp being mounted as low as it is IMO I would think you could get by with just about a quarter of that. Not to mention that having the entire top of the lamp covered in plastic is going hamper the lamps ability to dissipate heat.

    Interesting mounting solution. I like it but my guess is that it would have to vibrate/sway quite a bit being so elongated as it is.

  15. #165
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    Well I tried with a smaller hood first and it didn't provide a sharp enough cut-off for the beam. I want the brightest centre directed as far ahead as possible without deer-ing oncomers to the headlight. And in fact, the lower the lamp hangs, the more precise you have to be.

    The lamp never even feels luke warm when I touch it so I stopped worrying about the hampered dissipation. Maybe come summer I have to cut the cover narrower; it's strenghtened with construction glue anyways.

    The low mounting serves a purpose: otherwise my handlebar bag would block the light. Also, (especially since I sometimes use a head-lamp) the lower position makes for good road perception. The Topeak BarXtender does its job and I haven't noticed any vibrations or swaying at all. As a bonus I can strap the lamp on in two seconds because I never have to take the rubber mount off, instead just twitching it over the end of the bar.

    The battery pack normally goes in the bag. I hate fiddling with that flimsy mounting strap - and speaking of ugly I use a random piece of foam in between the battery and the frame when riding without the bag. With the wire all over the place, straps, pices of foam, a schampoo bottle cap and some random rubber band here and there it has white trash written all over it. Butt ugly would sum it up.

  16. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by bjorsa View Post
    Well I tried with a smaller hood first and it didn't provide a sharp enough cut-off for the beam. I want the brightest centre directed as far ahead as possible without deer-ing oncomers to the headlight. And in fact, the lower the lamp hangs, the more precise you have to be.

    The lamp never even feels luke warm when I touch it so I stopped worrying about the hampered dissipation. Maybe come summer I have to cut the cover narrower; it's strenghtened with construction glue anyways.

    The low mounting serves a purpose: otherwise my handlebar bag would block the light. Also, (especially since I sometimes use a head-lamp) the lower position makes for good road perception. The Topeak BarXtender does its job and I haven't noticed any vibrations or swaying at all. As a bonus I can strap the lamp on in two seconds because I never have to take the rubber mount off, instead just twitching it over the end of the bar.

    The battery pack normally goes in the bag. I hate fiddling with that flimsy mounting strap - and speaking of ugly I use a random piece of foam in between the battery and the frame when riding without the bag. With the wire all over the place, straps, pices of foam, a schampoo bottle cap and some random rubber band here and there it has white trash written all over it. Butt ugly would sum it up.
    Well it works for you and that is the important thing. You must have a heck of a time trying to reach the mode buttons when riding though.

    Have you ever considered a small frame bag? I use a small bag on my road set-up that fits nicely between the top/head and down tube. The advantage of this kind of arrangement is that it helps free up space around the bars ( vs. a handlebar bag ) and I don't need to use a bag under the seat. It's small enough that is doesn't interfere with the water bottle too. I figure with the lamp mounted on the bars you could more easily *adjust the lamp for on-coming traffic. ( * either by tilting the lamp down or changing modes )

    Anyway, if you are really concerned about cut-off for the lamp you might consider a dynamo light head. Most of the good ones are designed with cut-off in mind. Matter of fact I've been thinking of going dynamo myself for my on the road set-up but just don't have the money needed to get what I want. I don't worry too much about it though as I have good battery powered lights.

  17. #167
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    I have two of the XM-L2 U2 version on my handlebars now and I couldn't be happier. Just a bump to make sure everyone knows how great these lights are.

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