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  1. #151
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    Dont be cheap. Those inserts will cost a few bucks...and will improve heat transfer by at least 500%. I will overhaull my light to the point, it will match the original MJ880.

  2. #152
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    K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    Quote Originally Posted by bhocewar View Post
    Dont be cheap. Those inserts will cost a few bucks...
    To be fair the light head is only $29. So how much more of an investment are we looking at here? If it dies you can just grab another cheapo light head. Also it looks like the heatsinking is not as good but how much of an issue Is it really? Is there a good way to measure that?

    I did see some people on the blf forums make a heat sink from thick copper wire and solder. Then put it in with a bunch of thermal paste. That may be a budget option

  3. #153
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    About $15 in material/not including labour/including a few other tricks.
    Thermal managment is the most important thing in light design and its performance.

  4. #154
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    K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    Quote Originally Posted by bhocewar View Post
    Finaly...I got a new version KD XML2 880 clone. Head unit only.
    http://www.kaidomain.com/Product/Details.S022641
    Got some good and some bad news.

    Let me start with good ones.
    -it has indeed XML2 leds
    -it has standard Magicshine connector (picture on KD site shows connector from old XML series)
    -you get two mounting silicone o-rings and both are small size, so you get a good tension on a handlebar.
    -very fast delivery. Less than 3 weeks.



    and the bad news
    -very poorly packed. Only bubble wrap and standard chinese envelope. But it survived the journey.
    -very poor heat transfer design (SSX2 alike). It has slightly different design compare to first version with XMLs.


    Does not have leds on stars and inserts but leds are on a custom one piece backplate that fits very loosely.
    You can see heat transfer contact area on a picture above. It is only that middle area with some thermal paste on it and some
    random contact points at the edges. The main middle wall is thicker compare to old one and if there werent those
    huge holes drilled out, but just two small ones for cables, it would have sufficient heat transfer. But now it needs
    overhaull!!!! I will make some solid alu inserts to pressfit in those holes and make a bigger contact.
    I think that this light is not very good as it is...it is not plug&play, but if you upgrade it, it could be very good.
    Driver looks the same.

    Tomorrow I will be able to compare brightness between this one and the first XML version.
    Well my two light heads showed up. Same issue. What size inserts are you making? It would save me from trying to shove some calipers in there!

    Thanks!

  5. #155
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    I am making inserts to mod it with TIR optic lenses, so it is a different size. You need just to fill those holes... 18mm dia and cca 4mm thickness.

  6. #156
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    K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    Quote Originally Posted by bhocewar View Post
    I am making inserts to mod it with TIR optic lenses, so it is a different size. You need just to fill those holes... 18mm dia and cca 4mm thickness.
    Are you making them thicker? Post up some pics of your work when u get there!

  7. #157
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    Eventually you can make them thicker to heatsink the driver also.
    @bhocewar what tir lenses are you going to use?

  8. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    Eventually you can make them thicker to heatsink the driver also.
    @bhocewar what tir lenses are you going to use?
    ...or you heat it up...
    I will use regular 20mm TIR optics (21mm with plastic housing) 10°+25° maybe 2x25° for handlebar

    more... when it`s done.

  9. #159
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    It depends on whether the driver needs cooling or not.

    I was thinking about 15° and 30° for a handlebar. But now I am using 7 XM-L as a bar light and 880 clone will move to a helmet light so I probably won't change anything.

  10. #160
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    K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    My fasttech optics showed up today. Loose fit. Needs to be raised a mm or 2. I fit them anyway with 15/30 combo just to see how it looks. Beam pattern loses the hot spot. Def more flood. But for now I'll run stock until i feel like messing with it. Comparing against my friends yinding light. That thing is 1/2 the size and same amount of light. With a better beam pattern.

  11. #161
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    Here is an upgraded 880 clone. 10°+25° optics...I will take some before/after beam shots...




    waterproof test

  12. #162
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    K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    Quote Originally Posted by bhocewar View Post
    Here is an upgraded 880 clone. 10°+25° optics...I will take some before/after beam shots...
    Nice work! Inspired me to make a piece for mine so i can use my optics. 15° and 30°.

    Much better beam pattern. I am currently running both of my light heads on the bars. I'll do a ride with the modified optics and the stock reflectors to see how I like the difference.

    K/D  2 x XML, MJ880 Clone-imageuploadedbytapatalk1387762126.371516.jpg

  13. #163
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    I have the Kaidomain version. Never opened it or addressed the heat dissipation problem - is that something I should do or it'll die on me?

    With regards to the beam pattern, I simply cut out a cheap plastic lens (intended to mod some common U2 lamp of larger size) and siliconed it on to one half, like this:



    I tried spreading the light from both LEDs but for me this strikes a good balance. Easy, cheap and ugly. But this lamp would still blind people and oncoming traffic so I also added a cap, cut out from a schampoo bottle.

    Unfortunately, the cable is complete junk and as you can see the cover is broken already (same goes for the battery pack cable on the other end):



    In your minds, what's the easiest way to repair that? Heat shrink tubing would require disassembly - maybe one could just as well switch it out to a new cable all together? I dunno. Just put something glueish on it maybe and see if it sticks?

    Anyways, the performance is good. It hangs upside down like this:


  14. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by bjorsa View Post
    ...Anyways, the performance is good. It hangs upside down like this:

    ...I think you have redefined the term, butt-ugly..

    That has to be the largest lamp hood I have ever seen. With the lamp being mounted as low as it is IMO I would think you could get by with just about a quarter of that. Not to mention that having the entire top of the lamp covered in plastic is going hamper the lamps ability to dissipate heat.

    Interesting mounting solution. I like it but my guess is that it would have to vibrate/sway quite a bit being so elongated as it is.

  15. #165
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    Well I tried with a smaller hood first and it didn't provide a sharp enough cut-off for the beam. I want the brightest centre directed as far ahead as possible without deer-ing oncomers to the headlight. And in fact, the lower the lamp hangs, the more precise you have to be.

    The lamp never even feels luke warm when I touch it so I stopped worrying about the hampered dissipation. Maybe come summer I have to cut the cover narrower; it's strenghtened with construction glue anyways.

    The low mounting serves a purpose: otherwise my handlebar bag would block the light. Also, (especially since I sometimes use a head-lamp) the lower position makes for good road perception. The Topeak BarXtender does its job and I haven't noticed any vibrations or swaying at all. As a bonus I can strap the lamp on in two seconds because I never have to take the rubber mount off, instead just twitching it over the end of the bar.

    The battery pack normally goes in the bag. I hate fiddling with that flimsy mounting strap - and speaking of ugly I use a random piece of foam in between the battery and the frame when riding without the bag. With the wire all over the place, straps, pices of foam, a schampoo bottle cap and some random rubber band here and there it has white trash written all over it. Butt ugly would sum it up.

  16. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by bjorsa View Post
    Well I tried with a smaller hood first and it didn't provide a sharp enough cut-off for the beam. I want the brightest centre directed as far ahead as possible without deer-ing oncomers to the headlight. And in fact, the lower the lamp hangs, the more precise you have to be.

    The lamp never even feels luke warm when I touch it so I stopped worrying about the hampered dissipation. Maybe come summer I have to cut the cover narrower; it's strenghtened with construction glue anyways.

    The low mounting serves a purpose: otherwise my handlebar bag would block the light. Also, (especially since I sometimes use a head-lamp) the lower position makes for good road perception. The Topeak BarXtender does its job and I haven't noticed any vibrations or swaying at all. As a bonus I can strap the lamp on in two seconds because I never have to take the rubber mount off, instead just twitching it over the end of the bar.

    The battery pack normally goes in the bag. I hate fiddling with that flimsy mounting strap - and speaking of ugly I use a random piece of foam in between the battery and the frame when riding without the bag. With the wire all over the place, straps, pices of foam, a schampoo bottle cap and some random rubber band here and there it has white trash written all over it. Butt ugly would sum it up.
    Well it works for you and that is the important thing. You must have a heck of a time trying to reach the mode buttons when riding though.

    Have you ever considered a small frame bag? I use a small bag on my road set-up that fits nicely between the top/head and down tube. The advantage of this kind of arrangement is that it helps free up space around the bars ( vs. a handlebar bag ) and I don't need to use a bag under the seat. It's small enough that is doesn't interfere with the water bottle too. I figure with the lamp mounted on the bars you could more easily *adjust the lamp for on-coming traffic. ( * either by tilting the lamp down or changing modes )

    Anyway, if you are really concerned about cut-off for the lamp you might consider a dynamo light head. Most of the good ones are designed with cut-off in mind. Matter of fact I've been thinking of going dynamo myself for my on the road set-up but just don't have the money needed to get what I want. I don't worry too much about it though as I have good battery powered lights.

  17. #167
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    I have two of the XM-L2 U2 version on my handlebars now and I couldn't be happier. Just a bump to make sure everyone knows how great these lights are.

  18. #168
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    After some time using this light with a couple of other blokes around I found out that the R100 resistor likes to blow up increasing its resistance from 0.1Ohm to xyzOhms. The light seems good overall, buttons all green but it won't power on - actually it does, but the amount of current is very low rendering the leds powered off. Changing the resistor and maybe a increasing its heat dissipation makes the light work fine again. That happens more frequently on the "solarstromified" versions of the 880 clone.

    K/D  2 x XML, MJ880 Clone-ff8nsych.jpg

  19. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by bhocewar View Post
    Here is an upgraded 880 clone. 10°+25° optics...I will take some before/after beam shots...
    I am new to LEDs, so can you explain the 10 and 25 degree optics? Is the 10 degree the original "spot", and the 25 degree is a swapped in "flood"? If so where did you get the flood?

  20. #170
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    K/D 2 x XML, MJ880 Clone

    Quote Originally Posted by MK96 View Post
    After some time using this light with a couple of other blokes around I found out that the R100 resistor likes to blow up increasing its resistance from 0.1Ohm to xyzOhms. The light seems good overall, buttons all green but it won't power on - actually it does, but the amount of current is very low rendering the leds powered off. Changing the resistor and maybe a increasing its heat dissipation makes the light work fine again. That happens more frequently on the "solarstromified" versions of the 880 clone.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks for the tip! Do you have a source you like to get new resistors from?

  21. #171
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    My source is local shop with electronic stuff, or you can go with Fasttech, DX, ...

    Here is the guide which SMD package will fit: Resistor Sizes and Packages » Resistor Guide

    The lager the resistor the more heat it can dissipate.

  22. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by B.A.R.K. View Post
    I am new to LEDs, so can you explain the 10 and 25 degree optics? Is the 10 degree the original "spot", and the 25 degree is a swapped in "flood"? If so where did you get the flood?
    Both TIR optics are added for an upgrade. Original light has OP reflectors

  23. #173
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    Can someone tell me if the 880 clone has more throw than the SSX2? Also how does it compare to the SSX2 over all?

  24. #174
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    The reflectors have similar dimensions, 880 is OP whereas X2 is smooth. 880 should push more current to the leds. I think the throw difference is negligible. Here is my photobucket album with some lights beamshots including 880 clone and X2. The quiestion is what driver X2 uses, 880 clone uses just one type.

    Budget Lights Comparo 2014 Photos by kuzmami | Photobucket

  25. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Archie- View Post
    It is not unusual type of head: such drivers are typically included in most "all-in-one" toolbox / bit sets...
    The triangular head (that fits the new Neutral White KD880 clone) might be more common outside the USA. It was not included in any of the multi-tools I've purchased previously and haven't seen it at my local big box store recently either. But then, NYC is no longer world-renowned for hardware. Could anyone here please provide a link or other reference so I can at least narrow down my search? Afraid if I just use the end of my triangular file it will abraid the finish of the screwhead.

    Also, if I find I don't have to (or can't) mod the innards with thermal slugs, what options exist to otherwise compensate for the shortfall with replacement optics?

    Thanks!

  26. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    The triangular head (that fits the new Neutral White KD880 clone) might be more common outside the USA. It was not included in any of the multi-tools I saw at my local big box store. But then, NYC is no longer world-renowned for hardware. Could anyone here please provide a link or other reference so I can at least narrow down my search? Afraid if I just use the end of my triangular file it will abraid the finish of the screwhead.
    You're welcome:
    triangular screwdriver | eBay

    Please note, that tri-wing and trigram bits/drivers are sometimes called "triangular" too - but are completely different type.

    One more:
    Silverhill Tools ATKTR4 Triangle Head Screwdriver Setwith Carry Pouch - Hand Tool Sets - Amazon.com

  27. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Archie- View Post
    You're welcome:
    triangular screwdriver | eBay

    Please note, that tri-wing and trigram bits/drivers are sometimes called "triangular" too - but are completely different type.
    Thanks Archie. From Wikipedia:

    Sizes include TA14, TA18, TA20, TA23, and TA27.

    By any chance do you know which size the 880 clone uses? If I could find the right one locally it would save the wait from China/Hong Kong/Australia or the expense of buying the entire set from Amazon.

  28. #178
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    Glad to be of assistance, Andy!

    Unfortunately, I don't know exact size, but you may use ledoman's trick or similar method probably.

    Offtopic: are you sure it's impossible to find such tools locally?

  29. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Archie- View Post
    Glad to be of assistance, Andy!

    Unfortunately, I don't know exact size, but you may use ledoman's trick or similar method probably.

    Offtopic: are you sure it's impossible to find such tools locally?
    Well like I said, my triangle file is very rough on the end, afraid it would damage the screw insets. Local hardware stores don't carry a full set of triangle drivers, they sometimes include a single one inside a set of other drivers and hex wrenches but there'd only be a one-in-five chance it would be the size I need. Amazon does offer the full set, am currently trying to fill my cart with enough other items to qualify for free shipping. Any recommendations for soldering kit and precision tips? Gotta go check out the DIY forum!

    Still don't know about replacing the reflectors with the optics mentioned here, guesss if I get the light head apart I'll simply have to measure. Doesn't even matter to me so much how wide or narrow an angle; I just don't care for the current set up, hot spot is too distinct. Wonder why the clones all have OP reflectors rather than the optics of the original, could it have saved the manufactures on material or labor?

  30. #180
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    I can probably find you a nice budget soldering station on Amazon. Give me a minute and watch for a PM.

    -Garry

  31. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    I can probably find you a nice budget soldering station on Amazon. Give me a minute and watch for a PM.

    -Garry
    Thanks Garry! Yeah I saw some, problem is the replacement precision tips are not sold in multiples, only variety packs seem to be available.

  32. #182
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    You can undone those screws with "minus" screwdriver with 3+mm wide tip

  33. #183
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    Well as long as I had to wait for the optics from FastTech to arrive, ordered the complete set of triangular head drivers that -Archie- found for me on Amazon. Worked great, and a good thing too because I had to take that little sucker apart a good many times trying to figure out the easiest way to mod it without a workshop. Ultimately fashioned my own ~1mm thick plate to backup the emitter board using tinned sheet steel cut from the lid of a can of sweetened condensed milk and wrapped in aluminum tape, trimmed to size. Pressed into place, stuffed same NW XM-L2 3C emitter board with its two wires back inside. Dropped in the new 15º optics, retaining original flat glass lenses to both help fill gap and keep the narrower new units from falling through the front plate. Everything fits nice and snug, no rattling. Didn't break anything this time, finished it all without having to resolder the leads either. New setup seems to be working pretty well, shell heats up real fast — woohoo.

    Beam is still very tight, but without all the horrible ringing/color separation the previous reflectors had been putting out (will post some shots once it's dark enough.) Modded lamp will live on the bars as my "Driving Light." When the elliptical lenses on order from LEDDNA come in, will insert those into some other lamp for use as a low beam.

    Thanks guys for all the previous examples. Now let's just see how long this one lasts.

    K/D  2 x XML, MJ880 Clone-image.jpgK/D  2 x XML, MJ880 Clone-image.jpg
    Last edited by andychrist; 04-03-2015 at 01:30 PM.

  34. #184
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    Looking at your photo I would of thought the original reflectors would of been OP or faceted. I believe the original 880's used faceted reflectors which would of provided a more smoother beam pattern.

  35. #185
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    Yeah Cat, the KD MJ-880 clone did come with OP reflectors, don't think they are the same or even similar to what MagicShine uses though, from what little I could glean from the pics on their site. KD's blur the distinction between spot and spill but somehow separate out the neutral white tint into alternating rings of sickly yellow and blue. Think that might have been what tigris99 was experiencing with his SS X3 too before he modded it with optics from LEDDNA, had said the NW XM-L2 emitters were putting out too much yellow before but that now they all look fine.

    I've still got an unaltered NW KD here I can compare beams shots to once it's dark enough. Not sure how well my iPad can pick out the rings though, auto WB kinda unpredictable.

    Incidentally, here's a slightly better shot of how the lenses from FT fit over the emitters, a lot different from the way TIR optics look.

    K/D  2 x XML, MJ880 Clone-image.jpg

  36. #186
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    FYI, Original Magicshine MJ-880 uses 15deg TIR optics of same dimensions as LED-DNA optics. They are easily exchangable. It has been 10 days since I've put one 25deg instead of stock one. The light was used for caving so bit wider beam was desired.

    @andy, KD 880 is quite good regarding heating issues. I've used Noctigons and additional cilindrical inserts along with LED-DNA optics. Heat dissipation is so good I could raise the current for about 30% with no problems. With those mods it can easily compete with original MJ-880.

  37. #187
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    Yes ledoman, this clone certainly has great potential. Think KD might even still be selling the original model with the heftier internals, if they've left that XM-L T6 model unchanged (the package price is still higher than the XM-L2, maybe for a reason?) Anyway I was pleasantly surprised to find that even my cheapy insert plate mod, which I performed really just to compensate for the shorter optics, has actually improved thermal dissipation as well: the lamp shell becomes too hot to hold almost a full minute before my unaltered Silver model does.

    iPad doesn't pick up exactly what the eye detects, but here are before and after shots of KD 880 clone with original reflectors top and modded with FastTech 15º lenses below.

    K/D  2 x XML, MJ880 Clone-image.jpgK/D  2 x XML, MJ880 Clone-image.jpg

    For under $2.00 in material, am satisfied with the results. And now I've crammed in the extra back plate, will be a cinch in the future just to drop in any other lenses might strike my fancy.

  38. #188
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    Hey Andy you know u can get optics from led supply and mouser here in the states for about the same price???

    Just put these top of my next head to order (yinding on the way atm).

    Now something about beefy vs crappy internals???? Whats up there exactly.
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  39. #189
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    tigris, at the time I placed my orders, couldn't find the exact same lenses any place else. Not a big deal, didn't mind waiting as biking season is not exactly in full swing yet.

    Yeah if you read all the way back here on the KD MJ-880 clone, you'll see that they changed the internal design at some point. First model on offer was XM-L T6, it had either two separate emitter stars and a full divider wall or heavy pills, forget which. Current XM-L2 U2 version has huge circular cutouts and single emitter board, much like your SolarStorm X3. Dunno whether the XM-L T6 that KD still sells in a package is unaltered from that first one but I suspect it might because they're asking the original price, over eleven dollars more than the current XM-L2. Kaidomain might be willing to sell the lamp head alone, they are very accommodating that way. I'd want to verify first how it's made inside though, doubt KD would have the answer. Either way, a very nice lamp with a slick look and the dual control buttons are certainly a definite plus.

  40. #190
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    Well I ask cause what amazon offers always seems to be older versions and I don't mind buying the lights there, the cells when stripped from packs and ran through my bc6 balance charger and such seem to work pretty well afterwards. Saving me from buying good cells yet. But thnx for heads up on that. Kd 2 id the same way, big through holes and single plate too. I dont mind that as long as plate goes in from optics side and not back side like kd 2
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  41. #191
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    Yeah tigris they're selling the OxyLED branded version of the whole package on Amazon for around $40. Says XM-L and the pics show it with that earlier Cree emitter. Still that's no guarantee you'd receive the original build KD used. Seems like a real crap shoot, especially as there are both XM-L T6 and XM-L U2 versions floating around. Not to mention, Amazon might be even be fulfilling current orders with the latest build, not like they always have so much as a clue. So, if neither Kaidomain nor anyone here can confirm that the better earlier model is available, I'd say best value would be to order either the solitary NW XM-L2 U2 lamp head or full package from KD. At least you'd be getting the emitters you want, and you're handy enough to improve the rest.

    BTW, think the Silver model looks a lot more spiffy than the Black, pictures on KD don't do it justice.

    K/D  2 x XML, MJ880 Clone-image.jpg

  42. #192
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    Raw does look pretty slick, part of my thing with getting kd lights on amazon, I still don't have my kd order from almost 4 weeks ago. Took them 3 weeks to get my order to the postal service. And they aren't like gearbest and offer an affordable expedited shipping. And now oxyled isn't the only kd 2x option, found 1 or 2 more.
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  43. #193
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    Silver model seems to be anodized too, it's brighter and more sparkly than regular raw aluminum.

    tigris, the other two KD style clones on Amazon are more expensive than the OxyLED and both probably ship from China anyway, delivery estimate is the same ~four to six weeks with each despite one saying USA.

    My last delivery from Kaidomain took only a couple of weeks. Think a lot of delays with them just a matter of not all items being in stock at any moment. But you can email KD before placing an order to find out which sku's are available to ship right away, they're always very responsive. You might even be able to find out from them whether any of their MJ style lamps is still the original build, if you can provide enough info in simple language (easier said than done.)

  44. #194
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    Actually the 3 I have saved are all prime 2 day shipping eligible. Oxyled, securitying just added one in the last few days then the supernight one which seems to have the oldest version. Not easy to find took me browsing everything cree light under cycling, prime eligible, to find the other 2.





    Btw Andy, what does ur driver look like, haven't found driver pics yet.

    Edit: Nvm found pics.
    Last edited by tigris99; 04-03-2015 at 11:20 PM.
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    Wow those sure are hard to find, tigris! But SecurityIng doesn't say which model it is save for only being 800 lumens (probably the shocking truth about them all, but just might indicate genuinely inferior circuitry here) and while from the limited specs provided the Supernight could be the same as the original KD, there is no way of knowing the truth until you get it. Also note that item is not shipped by Amazon so ineligeable for Prime or their superior exchange policy — delivery estimate still not bad even for Standard though. But as neither of these skus have garnered any reviews yet on Amazon I'd certainly hesitate before ordering, especially as they both come to more than the OxyLED, and all of them would still require around a $9 upgrade for neutral white emitters.

  46. #196
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    Hmm my account shows supernight with prime fullfilled by amazon, same with my securitying version. I always check that, but im gonna double check on website vs my app.



    Securitying to me seems like later model and wasn't their a few days ago (my kd 2 is securitying and I searched all their lights a week ago), supernight has a few reviews dating back to release of kd 2x. Oxyled not much there either.



    Gonna drag up links try to figure out why your seeing something different than me, maybe learn a detail I missed about amazon lol.

    Update: Nope, fulfilled by amazon and covered by their return policy
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/help/custom...deId=106096011

    Hmm which one to order.... Not oxy, its only 3 mode, securitying is more expensive but I know that brand... Other one has best chance of pills and good reviews....supernight it is.
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    So far what I've seen there were only two versions of MJ-880 clone. I don't know about Amazon (it doesn't deliver to my country), but I've got few from ebay and KD. Versions with XM-L leds were old design with pills and versions with XM-L2 were one plate led PCB. Both versions had same driver, but different connector (minor difference waterproof versus nonwaterproof). With both versions some sort of pills were needed to elevate leds into position where LED-DNA lenses have fit. Otherwise housings didn't have much difference and I think the consistency is much better than with most SS X2.

    Based on that I think there is not much to be afraid. Of course I might be wrong. With Chinese you would never know. ;-)

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    Ah, found it!

    http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-TM-...rds=supernight

    Okay so this Supernight sku is fulfilled by Amazon. And a good thing too, it has not gotten the best reviews by those who actually attempted to use it for any length of time. Am sure though tigris you'd be able to take care of any little shortcomings beforehand. Like ledoman says, a great lamp body no matter which version. Gold one looks pretty hot too. Only wish some vendor offered it with NW XM-L2, not worth the price and effort to me to reflow new emitters. Will let you have all the fun, tigris. ;-)

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    Hell reflowing emitters take 5 mins

    Well works out I have optics on the way from leddna, just no idea when/if they'll ever show up lol.
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