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  1. #1
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    ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light prototype sample

    BE AWARE, THIS IS A PROTOTYPE TEST SAMPLE, UNDER DEVELOPMENTS
    ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light

    Hi, I had to share this with you as soon as I got it. As you would see from the photos, this is not a finished product send for evaluation as first thought unless someone has robbed some of the bits from it! This to me looks like a prototype under development. I take it, they just wanted to test the water first and get someone's opinion on their product? I will ask more questions to the manufacturer, but as you know, for the Chinese, this is party time. Year of the Monkey I believe So will have to wait until they come back to work. The XP3 came with a helmet mount and a remote switch. The switch itself looks like a job in progress as the lead appear to be the type often found on speakers, but the helmet mount does look like a finished article minus the straps.
    Here some photos taken with my mobile phone, so quality is not great, but I am sure they will do for the moment.
    Here are some pictures
    BE AWARE, THIS IS A PROTOTYPE TEST SAMPLE, UNDER DEVELOPMENTS

    ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light-imag4642.jpg
    BE AWARE, THIS IS A PROTOTYPE TEST SAMPLE, UNDER DEVELOPMENTS
    ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light-imag4643.jpg
    BE AWARE, THIS IS A PROTOTYPE TEST SAMPLE, UNDER DEVELOPMENTS
    ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light-imag4644.jpg
    Last edited by Skyraider59; 02-03-2016 at 03:26 PM.

  2. #2
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    I like it, it is programmable, double click from any of the 3 modes will take you in program mode, this time indicated by the battery light flashing constantly and not by the main LEDs flashing, it does also default to a 10% output, then a single click will cycle to the next level , once you have reached your 100% a further click will take you back to 10% and then 20% etc. I actually prefer this to the way their programming was done on the Wiz20. To come out of programmable modes, double click. Factory reset is by a long press from off, did not count but 5/6 second, then you get the usual 10 multi flashes to let you know, the light is back to factory settings.

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    Looks pretty good.

    I think it probably needs more/deeper heat sink fins similar to the Glowworm XS. There's a whole lot of flat area on the top. Most people wanted a triple that is super bright, so that means high current and lots wasted heat energy that needs to scrubbed off.

    Is that a a removable remote? That would be awesome.

    I'm all for a programmable driver, but I double click all the time from low to high so wouldn't that put me in the programming menu?

    Can you do a size comparison next to a Yinding or Solarstorm X3, it looks pretty small?

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    Hi Varider just about to switch off , when I saw your post, yes the remote is removable so you don't have to use it, i like the choice of using it or not. Don't know about the heat yet, but I would thing this is going to get pretty hot quickly, but will have to see. Regarding the program, if you did click to quickly from low to medium to high, this would happen! I did approach that subject in another thread, as like you I really use only two modes high or low, the 3rd one get in the way for me, but from what I heard a lot of the riders do prefer 3 modes. I suppose it does depends on your ridding! I supposed we should ask Ituo , if this could be done: to have a light which is pre programmable ie with 2 programmable or 3 programmable modes, so for people like us, we would only need a single click to cycle between the low and high?

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    I like having three modes, perhaps even four for super bright light. It's just that I double click a lot, so I would hate to get stuck in programming mode.

  6. #6
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    AWESOME, 3 emitter head finally. Helmet gorpro style mount, removable remote, the same driver UI as the wiz20!!!! Nice to see Ituo has got it coming together nicely, needs a couple changes from what I see though:

    FIRST HOOK IT UP and tell us what the voltage/amps draw from a fully charged pack is (so I can get a rough estimate on lumens)

    I agree with varider on the fins,basically easy remedy is move the flat area with the Ituo emblem to the BACK of the light, and turn that area on top of the head into fins matching the rest of the case top and sides. Surface area is EVERYTHING when its a small light and going for high output.

    Obviously I dont have it in hand to run my tests on (sphere, wind tunnel, and riding of course) but simply doing that would allow the light to operate at higher output with decent airflow.

    Curious to know what they have planned for the battery connector. Guess Ill know soon enough.

    Skyraider, would help to clarify that what you have is the prototype test sample. Might scare people away seeing those pics of an unfinished light

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by varider View Post
    I like having three modes, perhaps even four for super bright light. It's just that I double click a lot, so I would hate to get stuck in programming mode.
    Yep, I have the same problem with the programmable Gloworm X2. If you go from low to high too fast ( double clicking ) you go into "program mode". Not the thing you want to happen when you're about to tackle a steep technical trail. As long as you don't switch modes too fast it's not a problem but it's a PITA when you first do it and don't know what's going on.

    I would prefer something like a " double press then immediately press and hold three seconds" to enter program mode. The lamp could then flash three times to indicate program mode. I think that would eliminate most of the problem.

    I agree with SkyR, having a choice of two or three modes is a nice option. I like three modes for general riding but for "race" purposes a two mode is more expedient.

    Other comments; I was kind of hoping it would be using a "wireless remote" "Wired" is fine for the bars though. Do the optics look like you can switch them out ( if desired )? I'm with the others, better heat management should be a priority.

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    I can tell just by the pics it uses our standard "leddna" optics with the white holders, same as wiz20.

  9. #9
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    Hi , Does anyone know how to change the thread name ie to change it to
    ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light prototype sample

    As you have seen from the photos, this is a unfinished prototype, very brave of ITUO to send this!
    This was tried at home on Monday night, with a fluxient battery, taken to work on Tuesday for my commuter ride back home, unfortunately one of the soldered joint on the power lead came apart, luckily This was spotted before connecting the battery. This is not surprising as the main lead came at a weird angle and was dangling loose as this is not even a completed prototype as all the inside are open. Got an old soldering iron and managed after half an hour to re-solder the lead. (Sorry guys but this was may first try on something that small, Wanted to be able to test it outside, after making a kind of backing with black electrician tape on the inside of the back plate, I packed the hole with silicone RTV to give some rigidity and water proofing to that power wire. Result, working fine and I was able to go on a nearby farm track to take some photos . Yes you can change the optics and use the Leddna types.

    Photo taken at my usual place, approx 25 yards to reflective object on floor and 50 yards to fence and tree in the very back ground, only really seen on high. Photo taken 1.6s, F4, ISO 200
    FIRST PHOTO IS THE WIZ20 SECOND PHOTO IS THE WIZXP3
    ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light-wiz20ls.jpgITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light-wizxp3ls.jpg

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    Photo taken at my usual place, approx 25 yards to reflective object on floor and 50 yards to fence and tree in the very back ground, only really seen on high. Photo taken 1.6s, F4, ISO 200
    FIRST PHOTO IS THE WIZ20 SECOND PHOTO IS THE WIZXP3
    THIS TIME BOTH ON MEDIUM

    ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light-wiz20ms.jpgITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light-wizxp3ms.jpg

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    Photo taken at my usual place, approx 25 yards to reflective object on floor and 50 yards to fence and tree in the very back ground, only really seen on high. Photo taken 1.6s, F4, ISO 200
    FIRST PHOTO IS THE WIZ20 SECOND PHOTO IS THE WIZXP3
    Both batteries were not fully charged and I tried to have both light in an horizontal position, I kind of wonder seen the photos if the XP3 way have been pointing a little towards the ground as there is a hell of a lot of light on that pass!!!
    THIS TIME BOTH ON HIGH
    ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light-wiz20hs.jpgITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light-wizxp3hs.jpg

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post

    FIRST HOOK IT UP and tell us what the voltage/amps draw from a fully charged pack is (so I can get a rough estimate on lumens)
    Tigris, sorry to sound dumb, but I do have cheap multi meter with amps reading, can you advise how to rig this up, so that I can check the draw! I supposed the best way would be to make an adapter to go between the battery and the light plugs? As the back now is sealed up with silicone!

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    Will get my DIY sphere this weekend and will get some lux figures, will also borrow a laser type temperature gun to see what the heat transfer is like , here is a better view of the fins, still not very deep!
    ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light-fins.jpg
    Electronics is not my strong point as I have never mod any lights, but this is how I see it, the back of the PCB is glued with thermal paste to the body of the lamp with only a small hole for the wires to go through the dividing wall to the reach a rear chamber where the circuit board is located. PLEASE REMEMBER THIS IS JUST A PROTOTYPE SAMPLE
    I am still very surprised as why they send me a prototype at such an early stage, can't speak to them as they are on holiday, I supposed they wanted to know what the beam was like for riding ? I never used an in line triple, just quads (in a rectangle configuration) but so far, I like the wide beam on my short ride to the farm. I will play with some optics later on as well .

  14. #14
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    Nice beamshots! This thread I posted at BLF might help you with current measurements:
    Contraption to Measure Current Pulled from Bike Light Battery Packs - REVISED - See Post #12 | BudgetLightForum.com

    -Garry

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    I was going to say that it does look like the XP3 is pointed down because of the huge hot spot about 10-15 feet in front of the bike, but you already noticed. I can only imagine how much that baby will light things up if pointed up a little bit. It looks like this is going to be another winner.

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    Quote Originally Posted by huckleberry hound View Post
    I was going to say that it does look like the XP3 is pointed down because of the huge hot spot about 10-15 feet in front of the bike, but you already noticed. I can only imagine how much that baby will light things up if pointed up a little bit. It looks like this is going to be another winner.
    I was going to say the same thing. It definitely is pointed down too much. Way too much light in front of the bike.

    So far though I like what I'm seeing. I can only imagine how nice this lamp might light up the distance with some tighter spot optics.

    @SkyR, It sure would be nice if you could compare the Wiz product(s) emitter tints to some of the cheaper Chinese made lamps with neutral white emitters. Of course if you don't own any I understand.

  17. #17
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    Cat, if he doesnt I can (since I have wiz20, same emitters). The optics will play a huge part though as stock yinding optics for instance make the light more yellow than the "LEDDNA" type optics used by Ituo

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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Cat, if he doesnt I can (since I have wiz20, same emitters). The optics will play a huge part though as stock yinding optics for instance make the light more yellow than the "LEDDNA" type optics used by Ituo
    If not raining, will try to take more beam shots after work

  19. #19
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    I think this triple makes for a nice light to mix different optics - two floody, one throwy, two throwy, one floody, etc. . . I would like to hear about the current draw.

    -Garry

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    I have fitted my 2015 Yinding to my bike and the XP3, will go out after work and take the same photos again, will try to get both lights level this time.

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    Taken more photos this evening with the yinding from gearbest bought in january 2015 and the ITUO XP3, i was very careful that both lights were set at the same angle . I have got more photos that i will try to post Tomorrow night, both light on high, yinding first.
    ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light-img_4800.jpg
    yinding
    ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light-yindinghigher-3-.jpg

    ituo xp3
    ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light-wizxp3-higher-3-.jpg
    The Yinding optic are different looking to the XP3 which I think are the same ones that are used in their X20

  22. #22
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    That looks pretty impressive. Nice even beam and very bright. I've been happy with the Yinding, but I'm looking for a light that's brighter.

    Is there any chance you can take a picture in slightly different spot? It seems like there is hump or a curve at the end of the hedge, making it hard to tell how far the light throws beyond that. That's going to be big deal for a lot of people. How far is it to the end of hedge? It looks to be about 20 yards. If anything this particular location might undersell the light.
    Last edited by varider; 02-04-2016 at 10:40 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by varider View Post
    That looks pretty impressive. Nice even beam and very bright. I've been happy with the Yinding, but I'm looking for a light that's brighter.

    Is there any chance you can take a picture in slightly different spot? It seems like there is hump or a curve at the end of the hedge, making it hard to tell how far the light throws beyond that. That's going to be big deal for a lot of people. How far is it to the end of hedge? It looks to be about 20 yards. If anything this particular location might undersell the light.
    Will do, but not sure when, stormy weather on it way today and looking grim this weekend, I have a photo taken in day time on some of my older reviews, I will dig it out and post it. The reflective item is about 25 yards single tree on the right side in the background about 50 yards, the hump in the distance probably ,250 yards or more, it is part of a field.

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    ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light-imag1570.jpgITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light-imag1571.jpg
    Photos taken in day time a few years ago, I have not been able yet to take some photos ina different place but I will do

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    Wow, that's completely different than what I was picturing in my mind. I thought it was some sort of double track in the woods that went over a small hump/curve and then went by a fence. But the fence is actually a hill. That looks pretty far out there. How far would you estimate to the top of the hill?

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    Hi Varider, yes that hill is a long way away,plus the fact that my measurement given in yards are not very accurate, I use the old military method I know that one of my long step is a meter length, checked a very long time ago and rechecked today, so we are really talking 50 meter (a little more than 50 yards) to that wire fence and single tree on the right. The brow of that hill is probably another 250 yards at the least and probably a lot more. It is difficult to find a place not too far from home and kind of remote enough that you don't get disturbed by people wondering what the hell you are doing. That night I also had my helmet cam on, so once I have found time to process about 30mn plus of filming, I will post this.

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    ""Nice beamshots! This thread I posted at BLF might help you with current measurements:
    Contraption to Measure Current Pulled from Bike Light Battery Packs - REVISED - See Post #12 | BudgetLightForum.com""




    Thanks Garry, I have just orded some, will be able to check the draw thanks to your advice Nice one

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skyraider59 View Post
    ..It is difficult to find a place not too far from home and kind of remote enough that you don't get disturbed by people wondering what the hell you are doing. That night I also had my helmet cam on, so once I have found time to process about 30mn plus of filming, I will post this.
    Believe me I know exactly what you are talking about. Even harder for me because I can't find a place secluded enough not to attract attention. Not to mention that the local police get very curious when they start seeing someone shining a light around in a secluded dark area.

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    Finally found some time to put a video together with some filming I did at my last photoshoot, you will see the ITUO XP3 prototype , the YINDING YD and the Gloworm X2 in action. https://youtu.be/hUpRXvt3o7o

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Believe me I know exactly what you are talking about. Even harder for me because I can't find a place secluded enough not to attract attention. Not to mention that the local police get very curious when they start seeing someone shining a light around in a secluded dark area.
    Yes I know, on the left of the pass there is a field with horses and an house not that far, also get dog walkers and occasional traffic on the tarmac road leading to another farm, so I try to do this as quick as I can , I have just posted the head cam filming that I took while taking the photos.

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    Nice video Skyraider. Clearly yinding is the dimmest light of the three. Both the Glowworm and the triple ITUO are significantly brighter than the Yinding. It looks like the triple Ituo is a little brighter than the Glowworm X2 and has much more side spill (which I like). Is that your take as well? Were you using stock optics on the Glowworm and the ITUO? Just out of curiosity, which action cam are you using?

    With the glowworm mounted on the helmet, it probably makes the light look better/brighter than if it were mounted on the bar. I wonder how the triple Ituo stack up against the Glowworm XS.

    The Ituo seems to be pretty nice light. The removable remote, plus a button on the case itself is something that the Glowworms don't have. Plus the ability to use the ubiquitous gopro mounts which can be had for cheap. The $45 for the Glowworm quick release mount is a bit rich for my blood.

    The big question is the price of the light head only option compared to the price of the refurbished Glowworms. Decisions decisions. Have they given you an idea of a price range? Maybe that's not a fair comparison. I think of Glowworm as high-end or at least middle-to-high end. I think of Ituo of going for the low-to-middle price range but maybe they are more eager to enter the premium market.

    They are certainly hitting most of the wish list from the custom design thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by varider View Post
    ...

    At the bare minimum we should go for a very bright triple with lots of heatsinking.

    I'll read the thread again later today but if I recall correctly the most requested things were
    1) programmable driver
    2) different optics as a kit
    3) better mounts (gopro or cam-lever). Not just the usual rubber band mount
    4) solarstorm type of mode switch (can they do it?). A nice positive click, not the weak button on the Yinding
    5) possibly neutral white emitters or a choice of emitters with high heat conduction mounting base.
    6) thick wiring to reduce resistive power loss
    7) removable wired remote
    8) relatively inexpensive ($40-$60 ?)

    There were also some ideas about pointing one of the leds downward to provide a near field effect.
    Edit: some explanations in the red text

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    Can't imagine what the xs brings. But this light is peaking my interest. like the top button and option of remote is a huge plus. Any estimation on output? Pricing?

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    Headcam is a SONY HDR-AS200V, really like it, but do come with very little accessories, which are very expensive to buy for what they are. XP3 is very bright and due to the width of the beam, I do find it very good as a bar light.I have not tried it on my helmet yet. Like you I think that having a a body switch plus a removable remote switch is a brilliant idea. Last year I purchased the Yinding as a lot of riders are praising it, but I was very disappointed with it output, I think my old Solarstorm X2 is better. I really like the Gloworm X2 has an helmet light, the tint is cooler than the XP3, is fairly tight and I feel like having a search light on my lid, you just need to get the directional adjustment right for it to work at its best. The only thing I dont like about the Gloworm x2 is the side bracket with the GoPro quick release, all a little to fragile for my liking and would much prefer a GoPro mount.
    This turn up on my door step without much warning and just as they were braking up for their holiday. They should be back to work shortly, so will be able to talk to my contact to try to find a little more.

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    Just some quick comments; The ITUO XP3 seems to have been supplied with fairly wide optics. I realize this is just the proto-type but hopefully the finished product will come with some extra optics so the users can set the lamp up to provide the beam pattern that best suits their purpose. With the current optics I feel the lamp can only be used on the bars. That said it would make one hell of a bar lamp. With a 3-spot optic set-up it should make for one heck of a helmet lamp. I do like the tint of the XP3.

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    Guys I am running an output versus run time as I write, very impressive,. On my home made light sphere. On a fluxient 4400 mAh battery which had been fully charge 3 days ago and left, I got on start up 140500 lux, within 30 second, was reading 136100
    1 mn 133200
    2mn 129400
    3 mn 126300
    4 mn 122500
    5 mn 116900 when I switch the fan as the light was getting very hot to touch, a uniform 59 degree Celsius, heat transfer is excellent as the whole body did warm up evenly.
    Within 5mn with a home fan about 12inches away, the temp dropped to 47degree

    10 mn 124600 lux
    15 mn 125200 -42 degree Celsius
    20 mn 125000
    Measurements are taken every five minute with the output staying firmly at 125000 lux and the heat at 42 degree
    Increase at 45mn with the XP3 showing 126300 lux
    50mn 126300 lux
    55mn 125900 lux but as soon as taken off the fan path and positioned on the light box with no coolin, I can see the output dropping from 1259,1258, to 1256, 1255 when I put is back in front of the fan. So heat as expected has a lot of influence on how quickly the output will drop, so one to turn down as soon as you stop!
    60mn 125900 lux This is well regulated 60mn on high with a flat discharge line!
    I don't know how the Gloworm XS behave, but looking at Ituo past prices, I would hazard a guess that we may have found a very good and cheaper alternative to the GW XS??????
    65mn 125300 lux

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    70mn 124900 lux, I have just noticed that the battery warning led via the switch is red, it may have been read for longer?? and may not have noticed it. My room light on and the warning light is not very bright
    74 mn 26 second light turn off, no warning at all! I would bet that red warning light had been on a lot longer and I have not noticed it.

    Well I personally think 74 mn on high out of a 4400 mAh good quality battery is really good.
    So with a much bigger capacity battery, I think you may get 90mn plus on high.

    A few Figures
    ITUO XP3 PROTOTYPE ON START UP 140500 LUX
    ITUO WIZ20 ON START UP 80800 LUX
    GLOWORM X2 ON START UP 85100 LUX

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    Regarding output estimation, from some unscientific calculation here is what I guess the light is.

    The new 2015 Gloworm X2, tested by MTBR was giving 1545 lumens, so this figure divided by 85100 lux that I have recorded out of my DIY sphere, give you 0.00181551

    then multiplied by 140500 lux from the same DIY sphere does give me 2550.7915 lumens on start up
    and a 2269.3875 lumens constant for 74mn,
    I know this is a very ruff calculation but this is looking good!

    Gloworm XS according to MTBR do give 2350 Lumens, but I would be cautious with their figures as this is only tested for 3mn, so if you do have a step down and/or a gradually lowering output, they do not tell you as the light is not tested for long enough!

    My tests despite the fact that are no way as accurate that MTBR and only given in Lux, they are done until light switch off, so giving you a good understanding of the light behaviour on the trails.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    Nice beamshots! This thread I posted at BLF might help you with current measurements:
    Contraption to Measure Current Pulled from Bike Light Battery Packs - REVISED - See Post #12 | BudgetLightForum.com

    -Garry
    I have orded some of the connectors as per Garry 's posting so should be able shortly to see the current pull

  39. #39
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    Can you tell us more about your DIY light sphere? Post a pic? I'm in process of building a 12" round foam sphere myself.

    -Garry

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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    Can you tell us more about your DIY light sphere? Post a pic? I'm in process of building a 12" round foam sphere myself.

    -Garry
    my DIY sphere was modeled from a CPF thread Building an Integrating Sphere ...
    My was made out of nearly 12" polystyrene sphere (all I could obtain was a metric size sphere), a baffle was made out of white cardboard and glued inside, to to part of the sphere glued, kitchen foil paper was wrapped on the outside of the sphere to make sure no light would escape and the lot wrapped in masking tape. This was originally done to test the P60 droppings from Solarforce , from the days I use to use a couple of them. The window then had to be enlarged to receive bike lights and in the end I am making some template with a black card to position the light on the top of the opening. As you see this is far from high tech, but this does give you a measurement with which you can make a comparison. What I am getting out of it is not a lumens estimation but an idea of the run time, if the light had a step down, and an lux figure that I can compare with my other lights. ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light-imag4681.jpg

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    Thanks Skyraider59. You could very easily convert your lux readings to lumens. Just need to calculate your multiplier based on some known light sources (which you seemed to do above).

    -Garry

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    Actually with taking the time (and have a few lights that the lumens are tested and known) that sphere can be calibrated so you can give lumens. Will require a little more work possibly before calibration but its easy to do.

    My sphere started it's life THE EXACT same way as yours, polystyrene sphere nothing more. Garry is doing the same.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    Thanks Skyraider59. You could very easily convert your lux readings to lumens. Just need to calculate your multiplier based on some known light sources (which you seemed to do above).

    -Garry
    This was a very quick estimation as my light box has not been calibrated, Never got round to do it as I have not got enough lights that have been independently tested.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Actually with taking the time (and have a few lights that the lumens are tested and known) that sphere can be calibrated so you can give lumens. Will require a little more work possibly before calibration but its easy to do.

    My sphere started it's life THE EXACT same way as yours, polystyrene sphere nothing more. Garry is doing the same.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Tigris tel me more on how you calibrated your sphere.
    all you recording I guess were taken 30s after turn on?
    What lumens figures did you use, solely MTBR?

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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    Nice beamshots! This thread I posted at BLF might help you with current measurements:
    Contraption to Measure Current Pulled from Bike Light Battery Packs - REVISED - See Post #12 | BudgetLightForum.com

    -Garry
    Garry, could you advise on this, I am in the UK so looking for a local source, is that the voltmeter/ammeter you use? If I need some help with wiring instruction , would you be able to advise me?
    DC 100V 10A Voltmeter Ammeter Blue + Red LED Amp Dual Digital Volt Meter Gauge | eBay

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    I think you want the 0-30v model as that one you linked says it'll only show voltage to one decimal place. Here's the one I use: DC 0 30V 0 10A Red Blue Dual LED Digital Voltmeter Ammeter Voltage | eBay

    Make sure that yours comes with the "shunt" (thick bare "bar" of wire near the connector plugs on the pcb) as some do not (reported by another BLF member).

    Wiring is fairly easy and my link has a good wiring diagram. Just be sure to use thick short wires. PM me if you need help wiring it.

    -Garry

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    Quote Originally Posted by Skyraider59 View Post
    Tigris tel me more on how you calibrated your sphere.
    all you recording I guess were taken 30s after turn on?
    What lumens figures did you use, solely MTBR?
    All my readings are at 30 seconds. My calibrations done using ituo wiz20 (got their readings and how they compare to Mtbr sphere), ANSI certified flashlights that I researched to get an avg lumen output from the several reviews on each, couple heavily tested blf group buy flashlights, and now my X2 helped dial things in all the way.

    It takes time and research unless you can get access to a real sphere to test your current lights.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

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    What you have been waiting for! Got some connectors as advised by Garry and this was connected to my cheap Chinese multimeter. Here are the readings from my XP3 prototype, standard 3 modes
    ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light-imag4686.jpg
    off
    ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light-imag4687.jpg
    low
    ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light-imag4688.jpg
    medium
    ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light-imag4689.jpg
    high
    Readings taken out of the Fluxient 4400mAh battery that I have used for the run time/output test

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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    All my readings are at 30 seconds. My calibrations done using ituo wiz20 (got their readings and how they compare to Mtbr sphere), ANSI certified flashlights that I researched to get an avg lumen output from the several reviews on each, couple heavily tested blf group buy flashlights, and now my X2 helped dial things in all the way.

    It takes time and research unless you can get access to a real sphere to test your current lights.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    looks like I am going to have to find a little more spare time, to do all this :-)

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    5.25A on high?! Wow! I would have expected your readings to be low using the stock meter leads. Over at BLF we advise people to make homemade leads using short thick wires (14AWG or thicker) to cut down on the amount of resistance your leads put into the circuit. Then again, the higher voltage of a 2S bike battery pack helps too versus a single cell flashlight. I wouldn't expect your current reading to go much higher with custom leads.

    -Garry

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    Skyraider59 do you possibly know if the driver is boost (leds are in series) or buck (leds are in parallel) type and is it fully regulated ie. is it providing constant output power?

    It is nice to see your current measurments, but it is lacking of voltages at the same time. Namely if the driver is regulated it would pull much more current if the voltage at it's terminals is low. So we can't compare those 5.25A directly to our measurments we have done with our 2 led lights.

    I'm expecting this driver is boost one pulling very high current as the voltage drop over thin wires and poor connections is substantial. So Garry, don't be so excited.

    Edit: I meant thin wires and connections used to make measurements possible.
    Don't know what AWG is stock cabling.
    Last edited by ledoman; 02-17-2016 at 11:57 AM.

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    Had a look in my garage this evening and found some automotive amp meter cable, not to sure the rating 17.5 amps, rewired my leads and took some more measurements, which this time is a fraction higher than with the first wires I used. Also I have noticed that as the light was getting hotter the amps draw were increasing, , sorry was not monitoring the time
    ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light-o1.jpg
    low
    ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light-o2.jpg
    medium
    ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light-o3a.jpg
    high first measurement at turn on,
    ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light-o3b.jpg
    high second one around 1mn or a little more
    Last edited by Skyraider59; 02-17-2016 at 02:25 PM.

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    I would expect bigger difference. Anyway it is hard to say anything definitive without measuring voltage drop from batteries to the driver.

    Still can you tell the leds are connected in series or in parallel?

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    I don't think that meter is right. Especially with a small 4400mah pack trying to run it. Gator clips holding wires to leads definitely can't sustain that kind of current especially on those skinny wires going between everything.

    My little display is ran on 18awg and is in parallel.

    Only possibility I see is ituo has the driver output at 6amps give or take and the voltage sag is so bad with this set up that the driver is fighting to draw enough current cause it can't get the voltage it needs.

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    I have email a US seller for DC 0-30V 0-10A Red Blue Dual LED Digital Voltmeter Ammeter to make sure the one they are selling do come with the shunt bar as per photo. I am waiting to hear, If OK I will order one

    DC 0 30V 0 10A Red Blue Dual LED Digital Voltmeter Ammeter Voltage | eBay

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    Yes this is the one I use. Make wires as short as you can so you would minimize the voltage drop. A bit thicker wires would be even better. For better accuracy I would somehow solder thicker wires to the pins on the meter. Using connector is another point of looses. Of course it is not so practical.

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    The second set of reading were done after I replace the unknown wire by one rated 17.5amps 28/0.30, 2.0mm², 17.5A - cable OD 3.3mm

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    Used a block connector with the 17.5amp wire to give a better connection
    The test s are this time done with the GLOWORM BATTERY rated at 5800mAh
    ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light-imag4707.jpg
    ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light-imag4708.jpg
    ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light-imag4709.jpg
    ITUO WIZ XP3 Triple XM- L2 U3 bike light-imag4713.jpg
    I will take all this to work tomorrow and use one of our technician's multimeter, theirs are a lot more expensive than mine! :-)

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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    I don't think that meter is right. Especially with a small 4400mah pack trying to run it.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Will try another meter tomorrow, I don't know what cells Fluxient use in their pack, but this one appear to be of good quality, this run happily my Gloworm X2 on high for a fair time and 74mn on high with the XP3.

    If this may help to establish how good or bad my meter ease
    I have just tested my Gloworm x2 with it's battery,
    L-0.85
    M-1.89
    H-3.12

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    Holy crap ur meter is way off lol. I get just over 2A from my xt2

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    Not necessary. If the driver is regulated then it pulls more and more current as the voltage drops. And voltage drops even more when you switch to higher mode. That's why I'm keep telling he needs to measure voltage at the same time. This would tell us much more.

    Skyraider59, take your DMM with you to your job and measure both A and V at the same time and record them. Also you may measure voltage on both DC connectors under load to see the voltage drop over DMM.

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    This might help. Copied from my GearBest Triple review:
    Review: GearBest Triple XM-L2 3 Mode Bike Light

    "I measured current to the emitters at 1.886A while the driver pulled 0.97A from the stock battery@ 7.93v no load (7.54v under load). Using my Pannova case with two 4.06v cells saw the same results. Here is a pic showing this test:"



    -Garry

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    It is off, max peak current draw is 2.5A @ 6.8V. I had to dig through my run time/output test for the x2. With desktop computer down transfering results into Google docs w/ graph isn't doable ATM.

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    What is off here? Leds are getting 5.6W and power between battery pack and driver is 7.3W. The difference 1.7W is lost (transformed to heat) due to resistance in cabling+connectors and inefficiency of the driver. When you do that kind of measurments overall efficiency is worse than in reality as you have at least one more connector and we don't know what is their resistance.

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    He's getting well over 3A on his readings. His setup isn't really different than mine. Same connectors I use on my v/ammeter display. So his meter reading .75A more on the x2 with a "fresh pack" tells me the meter calibration is off. Not his fault. I calibrated my set up again thanks to Artur and myself both having matching sets of Xeccon prototypes.

    I'll bet a better meter will read more accurately and close to mine. Even my $25 DMM I had was off, didn't know it till I went to the store to buy one that was rated for Higher current (and better brand).

    It happens, but as I have my readings for the X2 I can help him make sure his is in spec when he gets it.

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    Tig, sorry I'm confused. Are you talking about Garrys or Skyraider59s measurments? I was thinking you were replying to the Garrys picture. I might be wrong.

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    Skyraider, not Garry's set ups.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

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    Ah, OK. Your post was just below Garry's not telling you are reffering to Skyraider, so I naturaly thought it is aimed to Garry's post. You know I'm not the native to the English language.

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    I know, I just didn't see Garry's post, just replied to yours (on my phone) as my phone didn't update the posts before I replied

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    It's crazy the amount of time and energy that goes into reviewing these lights. Big time props to you guys. How long does it usually take to go to production from the prototype stage?

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    Got it guys, will be testing the xp3 with automotive professionnal multimeters this lunch time, i have also got my GW X2 for comparaison tests

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    Guys, buy cheap, buy twice, my multimeter is going in the bin as , i will post the photos this evening but here are mesurements with profesionnal automotive equipment.
    With the fluxient battery 4400mAh
    Off 8.26v. 0.03a
    L. 8.01v. ,0.89a
    M. 7.77v. 1.70a
    H. 7.23v. 3.51a

    With the Gloworm 5800mAh the XP3 is also a little warmer by now
    Off. 8.27v. 0.03a
    L. 7.95v. 0.89
    M. 7.65v. 1.71a
    H. 7.07. 3.56a

    So what do you recon?

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    That is much more realistic. 25W of the battery on Hi.

    If you can somewhat discharge one of the batteries or have another with lower voltage it would be nice to have another reading of cool light on Hi. If regulated should read something like:

    H. 6.51. 3.89a
    or
    H. 6.00. 4.21a

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    Sorry to confuse you guys with my post . Thanks for the updated better stats SR59!

    -Garry

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    OK Ledoman,
    Borrowed from work another multimeter to do more tests this evening, battery used is the Fluxient 4400mAh pack

    battery showing 8.26v
    L 8.04v 0.90a
    M 7.83v 1.73a
    H 7.35v 3.54a
    H 7.30v 3.50a

    I have run the XP3 on high for 20mn
    battery now showing 7.65v

    L 7.46v- 0.96a
    M 7.26v 1.84a
    H 6.83v 3.70a
    Still have not heard from my contact at ITUO, so they may still be on holiday or are back but very busy trying to catch up!

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    Done some more readings with the battery being on high for another 10+mn
    7.21v
    L 7.01v 1.04a
    M 6.81v 1.98a
    H 6.34V 3.95a Looking like regulated to me :-)

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    That's a serious amount of lumens, ~2.5A per emitter (assuming 90% driver efficiency) so realistically 2.25A after losses.

    Rough calculation assuming U2 bin (they may be U3) and the optics their known to use is around 2300 lumens OTF.

    Whether my calculations are rather close or low (or even a slightly on the high side). Look out gloworm XS, you have real competition lol.

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    Yeah, it looks regulated and I'm assuming it has boost circuit with leds connected in series. There can be as much as 2.2A per led. Don't know but 90% efficiency is bit high as circuit needs to lift the voltage. 90% maybe when the pack is full.

    Since you have prototype light and all mesurment equipment there you could desolder one of the wires at leds PCB and mesure actual current and voltage. Similar to the Garry's setup on the previous page. Of course this is just to prove our calculations.

    Yes there can be more than 2000Lm OTF, at least at the beginning when light is cold. Shurely it is very prommising.

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    I'm actually thinking it's 3p. The behavior I'm seeing in his readings concur with 3p buck driver. Efficiency is high on my "guess" but it was just a number to use. I even said it was high (90% being 2.5A per emitter) thus the decrease I posted of 2.25A as a guess.

    I'm working on a prototype buck driver, 95% efficiency, 2A (confirmed) per emitter. It behaves the same as this light. Voltage drops, driver current draw increases slightly near the end of charge cycle. Actually all my 3p lights do. Just the amount of change varies. 200-300mA isn't much of a change. Exactly the same as I'm seeing with my prototype.

    I could be wrong as I've never bothered with a boost driver so it could behave the same as a buck but I didn't understand it as functioning that way.




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    I'm not expert either . Archie might tell us more about that matter, in general at least.

    Regading this light Skyraider95 would be the best source showing us the leds PCB or at least see how the traces on PCB are designed. If the driver is regulated then it can be either 3P or 3S.

    3P acts as one big led so the driver has to increase the current (on Hi that would be 3x 2.25A = 6.75A) which can only do by taking some voltage and trasform it to the current.

    3S on the other hand needs more voltage so more current is pulled from the battery and transformed to the voltage (aprox. 9.6V on Hi).

    Both processes has some looses. 3P would need quite thick wires from the driver to the leds (think of 6.75A), 3S can use thinner wireing so it is more suitable for multi leds setups and commonly used in those 6, 7up lights we have already seen here. That's why I'm more inclined to 3S setup. Of course I can be wrong, too

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    What I'm testing now is 22awg wire. The formula Garry gave us, current draw x2 divided number of LEDs. Some losses but like what I'm working on, output concurs with proper drive current. The up side of this set up is no loss of regulation during the entire runtime. Going the other route you loose regulation as soon as cells can't support the current draw to keep the voltage up.

    IMO it doesn't make sense to run a boost driver just because of the lost run time to boost voltage. Ever increasing amount of current draw as the voltage from battery decreases.

    Why I came to conclusion that this light is 3p. But like I said, could be buck drivers that don't behave this way, who knows. I just realized a couple days ago that linear drivers are still around. And can be very efficient if input and output voltages are within a couple volts.

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    More info on yhe XP3 from my Ituo contact <>.

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    Here is more info from my Ituo contact: The XP3 has boost circuit and with the 3 led in series. Also the XP3 has the temperature management, when the light gets too hot it will drop in output and when the light gets cool the output will increase. The max output on the sample is about 2300 lumens.

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    Thanks for the info. Just like I thought so it is boost and 3S. Would be nice to see clear and sharp macro pictures of the driver (both sides). Just to see how it is constructed. Please do it when you get chance to open the shell.

    Good to hear it has temperature management. It is very important not to overheat the leds and driver.

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    Ya I'm kind of shocked to see that, didn't expect to see a solid boost driver that's not drawing current like crazy. Seems they have good efficiency in their design.

    Now I'm wanting to see how it performs over the entire run time. Seems ituo is doing pretty well with a boost driver (better than Fenix)

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    I had to test the temperature management, not something I was confident with in case it did not work and I fried a good light! Did the Test with my fluxient battery again about 90-95% charged, and position the XP3 on the sphere and left it there with no air flow and watch the output dropped while the light was getting hotter and hotter, got to 62 degree Celsius, within 6mn, (measurement taken in the top centre of the light), then the heat stopped rising but the lux kept dropping to 50100Lux around 8mn showing 51 degree, then started going up slowly, by 10mn It was showing 57500 lux and decided to give it some cool air via the fan to see if I could speed up the recovery and within 2mn the lux were right up to 123000 with the light temp showing 35degree. I have not tried it on a club night forest run yet due to recovering from a chest/lungs infection. But I am hopping to do this in a couple of weeks. What I would expect in real life is for the heat management not to come in action unless you stop and leave the XP3 on high (well here in the UK as we never get high temperatures). So the heat management works, this is not a step down but a gradual but fast ouput drop and as long as you let the light cool down you will return to you high output.

    I have been asked by Ituo not to show photos of the inside/electronics as this is a prototype and they may alter it before the production run. As Ituo have been very co operative with us and also have been implementing some of our feedback and wishes, I will follow their request to keep good relations with them. Sorry guys

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    Sounds good, but what we're your initial lux readings - turn on and after 30 seconds. Assuming it's close to the 123,000 number.

    -Garry

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    Sorry, I realised that I did not give starting lux ouput,
    30s was showing 131000lux.
    So after dropping to 50100 lux due to heat this went up to 123000 after applying some airflow.
    I did some road riding this evening and went trough a small park with the XP3 mounted on my helmet and on high this is awesome. I recon you could easily forget about a bar light, except for the fact that once on your lid, you will not see the battery light and this will not give you any warning of the light turning off due to low battery, so for safety I do always ride with another light on (don't like to be plunged in darkness .)
    I think Cat was spot on, beam is to wide for a helmet light and would benefit of a tighter beam with different optics if used as an helmet light.
    Saying this , I think the XP3 may already have a 10 or 15 degree optics, difficult to tell But if position with beam facing upwards but light against a wall, the beam side reflection appear to be narrow , will have to check with ITUO
    Last edited by Skyraider59; 02-23-2016 at 04:46 PM.

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    Just had confirmation from Ituo, the XP3 use 10degree optic, so won't be able to get a tighter beam, i supposed the wide beam had to be expected due to the LED in line set up. Still very nice has an helmet light, will try to do some filming.

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    If it's on 3 10deg optics, then the throw is excellent (and surpasses any small dual emitter lights), just as expected the coverage pattern is wider because they are inline.

    More emitters ALWAYS means a wider pattern. And increased total output even though beam is wider, the throw is still better (which explains the throw we see in the beam shots, narrow optics) than less emitters if 2 things are equal or greater:

    -Lumens produced per emitter
    -narrow beam optic of same design and diameter

    Reason is that the central spot is where all emitter output beams overlap, so increased spot intensity. That equals greater throw.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

  91. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skyraider59 View Post
    Just had confirmation from Ituo, the XP3 use 10degree optic, so won't be able to get a tighter beam, i supposed the wide beam had to be expected due to the LED in line set up. Still very nice has an helmet light, will try to do some filming.
    Well that's kind of disappointing. Then again I'm having the same issue with the Duo-R. Of course if we can source a 6° optic more light could possibly be harnessed for throw. Two 6°'s and one 10° could be a sweet combo with a triple ( for helmet use )

    On the other hand the Gloworm XS ( triple ) is likely using slightly bigger optics and might have the better throw. It would be interesting to see how the new version of the Gemini Olympia might compare with the ITUO XP3.

  92. #92
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    How much throw are you going for?? 10deg optics are as tight as your going to get. As you said gloworm has every so slightly larger optics, but that barely brings them under 10 deg optics. Maybe equal to 10 deg on HI emitters I'll have to check.

    Anything smaller in this diameter just doesn't exist. Wanting a 6 deg spot means reflectors and/or xp-l hi. Xp-l hi (dedomed emitters in general) only tighten the beam pattern by a couple degrees.

    I think the ONLY one of our "known" lights that would prove better for throw would be the XS but it would be marginal.



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    Last edited by tigris99; 02-24-2016 at 12:17 PM.

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    I have one of those cheap ($3-$6) single AA China flashlights that comes with aspheric lens that slides in an out to provide different levels of zoom. At its most focused setting it projects the actual led die shape!

    I know it's not the optics you guys are talking about, but I can't imagine anything more focused than that.

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    You could always go XP-E2 for a tighter beam, but at the loss of a LOT of lumens (i.e. pencil beam). Don't think anyone wants that. I personally really liked the results from XP-L HI's with 10º optics in my Yinding (though I haven't actually ridden with that light yet).

    -Garry

  95. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrybunk View Post
    ... I personally really liked the results from XP-L HI's with 10º optics in my Yinding (though I haven't actually ridden with that light yet).

    -Garry
    Yes, I was thinking the same thing about XP-L HI but I don't think we're going to get to chose which emitters the lamp is using.

    I know I've run across 6 degree optics before but likely they were ( are ) not the size we need. Output even with the 10 degree optics are still quite wide. Not that this doesn't ( or can't ) work but I can't help but think how nice the throw would be if the beam pattern at distance was about half the size. If the lamp ( XP3 ) is giving the user usable throw at 200 ft. that should work well enough for a helmet lamp but it would seem odd to me to have such a wide beam coming off the helmet. Of course I don't own one so I'm just speculating at this point. The SStorm XT40 I have has a wide beam but not so wide that I thought it was too wide.

    Like what was said before, The fact that the emitter configuration is 3-in-a-row is going to have an effect on the beam pattern. That's one of the reasons why I've considered a Lupine Wilma for the helmet. Sadly though Lupine is still not offering a NW board for the new Wilma's ( as far as I know ).

    I'm not going to write off the XP3 yet though. If they sell these for the right price there's a good chance I might buy one. Then again if Gloworm releases a "wireless remote" version of the XS I likely will go with one of those. I would seriously consider a Gemini Olympia-R for the helmet but the NW emitters that Gemini lamps are using are really not warm enough for my taste. Since I now own both a Gloworm and Gemini lamp in NW I know I prefer the tint on the GW's to the Gemini's.

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    I've seen 6 and 4deg optics, but their 26mm, 40mm etc.

    I see where the big throw comes in handy if you've got a long line of site, me I don't so I'm finding I like high power 10-15deg helmet optics and lower power on the bars. When I look around a corner I want to see the whole thing, not a round spot on the trail.

    Thing is throw is a lot better than people realize. When 2 xp-l hi on 10 deg optics, just around 1800 lumens can light up a deer rather well at 150 yards I realized I'm running a bit of overkill. I have since dropped my yinding back to standard xp-l v6. Wider beam a bit and obviously more ouput. A lot less throw but still exceeds anything I could ever need.

    A lot of what I've come to realize is we fight to overpower bright, medium width bar lights by increasing spot intensity of helmet lights. I like the way I'm running now (just a personal preference) of heavy flood on the bars but not very powerful output, have the power on the lid with a good throwy spot but useable spill. That whole issue of high powered bar light in a narrower beam bouncing around just throws my focus off.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

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    I am in the process of editing some filming I did this evening , a loop circuit around one of our local farm, you will also see on the fim where I do take my still shots. I have done the same circuit with the WIZ20 bar light, GW X2 helmet light and the WIZXP3 helmet light. I will let you judge for yourself

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    PART 1 WIZ XP3

    The XP3 beam could have benefited of being adjusted a little higher, the hot spot seen in the film is not as apparent in live night cycling, you just get a lot of light on the floor if directed close to you!
    Here is the Gloworm X2

    Last film, the WIZ20 fitted on the bar
    Last edited by Skyraider59; 02-24-2016 at 04:02 PM.

  99. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skyraider59 View Post
    ...The XP3 beam could have benefited of being adjusted a little higher,( *the above video ) the hot spot seen in the film is not as apparent in live night cycling, you just get a lot of light on the floor if directed close to you!
    Yes, a little higher would of been better. I was glad when you made the left onto the double track that you started to lift your head to show more distance throw. Throw looks pretty good in this video and generally I don't like to use video to demonstrate throw. For that matter its hard to demonstrate throw even with still photos.

    I know you said the hot-spot in the video is not apparent to your vision but the camera is more sensitive to the area of intense light. That tells me that the optics are indeed focusing more light into the center area of the beam pattern. I like the tint of the XP3 and it looks like it can indeed work very well on the helmet. Thanks for the video.

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    The filming is very close to what I could see, the lighting and colours are right, but some of it is enhanced like the PWM or the harsh hot spot on near buy things, ground, bushes etc. But again if you watch the filming with the GW X2, again you will see a similar hot spot, which for those of you who have tried the GW X2, will know that this is not the case while you ride. I loved my X2 as an helmet light, but XP3 will take its place on my next forest ride :-)

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