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Thread: Ituo WIZ XP2

  1. #201
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    I forget what thread it was where i posted before and after photos when i changed my led boards,, most likely a Lupine thread. But when looking at the cool and neutral tint photos side by side only then i could see i guess a bit of yellow in comparison. Out on the trails no yellow perspective as in my case the cooler leds were 6000K vs 4900K so not a huge gap.

    Same as looking at it the other way,,, didn't realize how much the cool tint leds looked like they had more blue in them till compared with the new boards. In the end its to some degree how we perceive and it will be different for each individual.

  2. #202
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    Neutral white emitter tints are a hard sell to those who are not open to the concept. Personally don't think you'll ever convince anyone with beam shots or side by side comparisons because they can't show the physical advantages of how your eyes (pupil dilation) react to the lower kelvin light of NW emitters (or disadvantages of cool white). Saddle time with a NW light is the only way to truly appreciate this IMO. That being said, till the whole world converts to NW there are still times when I prefer CW, just not very often.
    mole

  3. #203
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    beam shots will show contrast which is effective in that regard and have some purpose for those not familiar with the difference and want a quick example. But i do agree,,,, once i was out on the trails and saw what my eyes picked up it was just easier computing the terrain having all the light i could want and range without the glare. i just picked things up with less effort if that makes sense. The 4900K tint for me is perfect, i too dont want a 3000K yellow tint or whatever the old incendescent bulbs were.

  4. #204
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    I didn't appreciate NW tint for a number of years buying cheap lights and building many of my own. Then I bought a Wiz20 which only came in NW and it wasn't until I was riding with a friend using CW lights that I could really see the difference.

    You need to compare NW and CW side-by-side on a leafy trail to really appreciate the difference. Beam shots and people telling you NW is better just doesn't cut it. It's all about the reflected light and the effect on your eyes.

  5. #205
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    I have a question about the low voltage cut-off.

    I was running home last night and the light suddenly shut off with no warning. I suspect the battery got below the protection threshold on the battery pack before triggering a low voltage warning on the light. It was about 0 celsius out.
    There may have been a change in tint on the switch LED, but it's not visible when the light is on your noggin.

    It's not an ITUO battery, it's a smaller LiPO with protection from Hunk Lee that I use for my commute. I am guessing it may have a higher cut-off than the light. This is the first time I have run the XP light out of charge.

    I always carry a small backup light and also a tiny spare LiPO battery, so no big problem to get home but it could have been worse on the bike at speed.

    Tigris, can you remind me what the light does as voltage gets low using the provided battery? Does it drop down, flash or some other change in the beam?

    I may just need to use a different battery pack with a lower cut-off, unless there is a way to program the voltage threshold for the light.
    Last edited by Ofroad'bent; 12-07-2016 at 09:09 AM.

  6. #206
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    I've had good success using my 2cell KD pack with the xp3. No problems with runtime on low/med and light use of high mode. I am usually done after 1-2hrs tho.

  7. #207
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirt Road View Post
    I've had good success using my 2cell KD pack with the xp3. No problems with runtime on low/med and light use of high mode. I am usually done after 1-2hrs tho.
    I have those packs too, but never ran it down to the warning so I'm not sure what the light does. I only use lower levels for running, and get a week's commuting out of a single charge. I have a different battery and light on my helmet for the biking days.

  8. #208
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    Yes, I admit without trying NW I have no right to judge it. I just at the current time have no interest for it, but I apologise for any disrespect I may have conveyed.

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by Staypuft1652 View Post
    Yes, I admit without trying NW I have no right to judge it. I just at the current time have no interest for it, but I apologise for any disrespect I may have conveyed.
    No worries, it's pretty hard to look at two lights and accept that the one that looks dimmer will help you see better till you prove it to yourself. I still remember looking at the Nitefighter lights thinking "too bad they only come in NW" and now the last 10 lights I've bought use the NW emitters and the last 3 are Ituo's. I'm sure most of us here have similar stories.
    Mole

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by Staypuft1652 View Post
    Yes, I admit without trying NW I have no right to judge it. I just at the current time have no interest for it, but I apologise for any disrespect I may have conveyed.
    You werent been disrespectful, just giving your opinion, no worries there. Like i mentioned i wouldnt want to ride with a yellow light that had the same tint as my halogen head lights somewhere in the 3000K.

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    Yes honestly, I have been at times really interested in some of the fenix lights, but didnt care for the tint. No doubt it does allow better vision of details with less glare etc.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ofroad'bent View Post
    I have a question about the low voltage cut-off.

    I was running home last night and the light suddenly shut off with no warning. I suspect the battery got below the protection threshold on the battery pack before triggering a low voltage warning on the light. It was about 0 celsius out.
    There may have been a change in tint on the switch LED, but it's not visible when the light is on your noggin.

    It's not an ITUO battery, it's a smaller LiPO with protection from Hunk Lee that I use for my commute. I am guessing it may have a higher cut-off than the light. This is the first time I have run the XP light out of charge.

    I always carry a small backup light and also a tiny spare LiPO battery, so no big problem to get home but it could have been worse on the bike at speed.

    Tigris, can you remind me what the light does as voltage gets low using the provided battery? Does it drop down, flash or some other change in the beam?

    I may just need to use a different battery pack with a lower cut-off, unless there is a way to program the voltage threshold for the light.
    That's not the light, that's your batteries. The light runs down around 5v before shutting off. I hope you didn't run your lipos that low.


    As for the Fenix lights thing, those ARE NOT the same. They claim neutral white but their not, their warm white. Like incandescent bulbs type color. Neutral white is slight yellow but nothing like Fenix lights.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    That's not the light, that's your batteries. The light runs down around 5v before shutting off. I hope you didn't run your lipos that low.


    As for the Fenix lights thing, those ARE NOT the same. They claim neutral white but their not, their warm white. Like incandescent bulbs type color. Neutral white is slight yellow but nothing like Fenix lights.

    Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

    That makes sense now, cool. Thanks for clearing that up. That color was quite yellow. Anyway I will stop derailing this thread, thanks for the patience.

  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    That's not the light, that's your batteries. The light runs down around 5v before shutting off. I hope you didn't run your lipos that low.

    Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
    I thought the protection would shut off before that, but maybe not. That battery may be in trouble.

    Back to the main question- What does the light do when voltage is low? How does it warn the user? I assume it doesn't just suddenly die.

  15. #215
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    Most lights rely on the pack protection cut off, and li-ion packs are designed to be able to drop to 2.5V per cell as thats max safe discharge (under load). The Ituo packs cut off higher than that, I forget the exact voltage, think it's just under 6V.

    As for the warnings on the light, thats all in the manual. The indicator light on the button goes red at 20%. About the same time the other "indication" the battery is getting low is shown. The light drops regulation and just starts getting dimmer.

    The problem with running a lipo pack is that the indicator isn't calibrated for a lipo discharge curve (much different than a Li-ion cell) and by the time you get a warning there is a chance you've already over discharged a lipo pack because they run a pretty solid voltage till "dead" at which point voltage tanks.

    That's the problem with trying to use battery chemistries other the Li-ion with lights not designed for them unless your pack has its own protect (which should be done for this use) Each chemistry acts very differently. Lights can only be calibrated for their designed batteries. So using other chemistry batteries you have to monitor everything on your own and not rely on the light.

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  16. #216
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    Gotcha. Use LiPo at own risk, use Li-ion when it counts.

    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Most lights rely on the pack protection cut off, and li-ion packs are designed to be able to drop to 2.5V per cell as thats max safe discharge (under load). The Ituo packs cut off higher than that, I forget the exact voltage, think it's just under 6V.

    As for the warnings on the light, thats all in the manual. The indicator light on the button goes red at 20%. About the same time the other "indication" the battery is getting low is shown. The light drops regulation and just starts getting dimmer.

    The problem with running a lipo pack is that the indicator isn't calibrated for a lipo discharge curve (much different than a Li-ion cell) and by the time you get a warning there is a chance you've already over discharged a lipo pack because they run a pretty solid voltage till "dead" at which point voltage tanks.

    That's the problem with trying to use battery chemistries other the Li-ion with lights not designed for them unless your pack has its own protect (which should be done for this use) Each chemistry acts very differently. Lights can only be calibrated for their designed batteries. So using other chemistry batteries you have to monitor everything on your own and not rely on the light.

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  17. #217
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    I see you now have a headlamp kit. Nice!
    You have run times posted for default settigns. What % are the default brightness settings? I have a champion ultramarathon runner who wants a set for a 4-day race, and need to program it for some serious burn times.

    I'll probably do 10%,20%,40% for her. She needs 12 hours per battery pack, but doesn't need tons of lumens.

  18. #218
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    There's nothing special about it, its the same as the regular XP2. Its just it doesn't come with a helmet or handlebar mount (replaced by head strap) and it's only a 2 cell pack.

    So the default settings and everything is the exact same as the other xp2 kit.

    For a 12hr run time out of a single pack (while running really low settings) your going to be much better off just getting the regular kit and buying the head strap. A lot easier to get 12hrs out of a 4 cell then try to squeeze it out of a little 2 cell (which probably won't happen unless you left it at 10% the entire time)

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  19. #219
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    Yeah, I got that it's the same light with 2-cell battery and headband.
    Can you answer the question about the default settings on the light please? My guess is 20%,50%,100%.

    I've gotten all-night burns on 2-cell packs in ultras and adventure races. I just want to know the default % as they have stated burn times for them.

    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    There's nothing special about it, its the same as the regular XP2. Its just it doesn't come with a helmet or handlebar mount (replaced by head strap) and it's only a 2 cell pack.

    So the default settings and everything is the exact same as the other xp2 kit.

    For a 12hr run time out of a single pack (while running really low settings) your going to be much better off just getting the regular kit and buying the head strap. A lot easier to get 12hrs out of a 4 cell then try to squeeze it out of a little 2 cell (which probably won't happen unless you left it at 10% the entire time)

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  20. #220
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    I don't know if low is 10 or 20, I don't remember (I thought it was in the manual) but it's 50% and 100% beyond that. Was posted in previous posts about a week ago on this thread so I figured you knew, sorry

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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    There's nothing special about it, its the same as the regular XP2. Its just it doesn't come with a helmet or handlebar mount (replaced by head strap) and it's only a 2 cell pack.
    The driver on my Duo has been failing, so this was looking like a good replacement for use on a headstrap for running/skiing/night-O.

    I see you don't have photos yet. Did you shorten the power cord coming out of the lighthead for the headstrap version? A concern for headstrap use is that the cords on the lighthead and battery be short enough that you could just hook them together and have a clean line from the lighthead to the battery when the battery is attached to the headstrap at the back (like the Duo). It looks like with your exisiting lighthead, you'd have a long power cord that has to bundled up, which would be a no-go for battery on headstrap use - too unwieldy, snag potential, and bounce/flapping around when running unless you run it down to battery on your body.

    Also, if you haven't yet, you'll need to provide an easy way to attach the 2 cell battery to the back of the headstrap.

    One annoyance that I have had with my Geminis, and one that this has too is that a long press of about 2 seconds is needed to turn it off. Maybe other people don't mind, because this is probably in a lot of lights. I do like the single click to change brightness, but wouldn't a press of, say a 1/2 second be distinguishable from a click? That would be much nicer than holding the button for 2 seconds.

  23. #223
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    I don't design these or anything. I just sourced a head strap and a good 2 cell pack for the people that asked about it. Main office won't be looking to make extremely drastic changes to accomplish all this for a headlamp for some time.

    The battery cable being loose is something that can be fixed with a small piece of Velcro. Its not something I can fix on my end (too much work to redesign cable lengths and everything here) So it was done with a piece of Velcro since the headband has a top strap. For now.

    As for the turning off thing, pretty much all lights you have to press and hold to turn off. A short delay like your asking will cause a lot of issues with people accidently turning lights off instead of cycling modes. That's something that you won't see changed for any light of this kind. Too dangerous.

    Do appreciate the feedback and there is some improvements that can come when the main office is ready to make a pure headlamp only version but the push and hold for off thing is one that can't be done without a separate power switch.

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    Last edited by tigris99; 12-16-2016 at 02:18 AM.

  24. #224
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    I've been using mine for running for quite a while, and now flr xc skiing.

    I would say that all of these are valid points.
    I have the cord wrapped up in Velcro, but shorter would be better. I also improvised a way to attach a battery pack to the back of the head strap.
    I often end up unplugging the battery, because the "off" flash sequence messes up your night vision before going dark.

    Still my favourite running light.


    Quote Originally Posted by xcandrew View Post
    The driver on my Duo has been failing, so this was looking like a good replacement for use on a headstrap for running/skiing/night-O.

    I see you don't have photos yet. Did you shorten the power cord coming out of the lighthead for the headstrap version? A concern for headstrap use is that the cords on the lighthead and battery be short enough that you could just hook them together and have a clean line from the lighthead to the battery when the battery is attached to the headstrap at the back (like the Duo). It looks like with your exisiting lighthead, you'd have a long power cord that has to bundled up, which would be a no-go for battery on headstrap use - too unwieldy, snag potential, and bounce/flapping around when running unless you run it down to battery on your body.

    Also, if you haven't yet, you'll need to provide an easy way to attach the 2 cell battery to the back of the headstrap.

    One annoyance that I have had with my Geminis, and one that this has too is that a long press of about 2 seconds is needed to turn it off. Maybe other people don't mind, because this is probably in a lot of lights. I do like the single click to change brightness, but wouldn't a press of, say a 1/2 second be distinguishable from a click? That would be much nicer than holding the button for 2 seconds.

  25. #225
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    XP2 is my first proper light. I've only used a Lezyne 600 lumen light, so any light of this caliber would probably be good, but I am super happy with the XP2. I can actually see well enough to ride trails at speed. tigris99 has been super responsive as well, so kudos to him for customer support. I've got the battery pack mounted just behind the stem on the top tube, but it brushes my leg when I'm out of the saddle pedaling. I may move it way back toward the seat post. Good thing the cord is long enough.

  26. #226
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    I put my pack at the top of my down tube so it's out of the way. In the fat bike it goes down where the cage mounts are on the down tube (have a small frame bag in the front part of the triangle). Works good for me so far as I hat trying to route a cable all the way back towards the seat tube.

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  27. #227
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    So I just got my second ride in with my xp2. I'm loving the light although it does have some weird things with it that I'm not sure are normal. More on that later when I post a review...

    For now I broke the plastic handlebar mount that came with the light. So I need to get something to replace it. I'm really not a fan of the oem ituo light mount and I know that if I get another one I'm just going to end up breaking it.

    Does anyone have any suggestions?

  28. #228
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    VancBiker's aluminum Gopro mount with heat sink fins. Done.

  29. #229
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    Ituo WIZ XP2-002-3-.jpg

    Check out post 92 or 94 in this thread. Vancbiker contact links @ bottom of post.

    Here's the "Vancbiker" setup on an XP3 (same mounts)

  30. #230
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    I'm pretty certain I'm going to order a XP2 after losing my prior light on a trip. Now a couple of questions:

    1) What optics does it come with as standard (I wasn't able to figure that out). I plan to run this on my bars a like a wide of flood spread (I'm not sure the right term). What's the difference between the flood, narrow spot and wide spot lens?

    2) I'm thinking of getting one of those mounts that has a GoPro mount beneath and a Garmin above. It's okay to run this upside down, right?

    3) Though I plan to get the kit with the battery, I would also like to get an extension cord and use that to splice an adapter cable between a Cygolite 4-cell 7.6V pack I have that is in great condition and the threaded MS connector on the XP2 to use as a backup. Will this work?

    Thanks.

  31. #231
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    Doesn't hurt them at all to run upside down. Nothing to worry about there.

    As for the other pack, it's hard to say since it's a 7.6V pack. XP series runs on a 8.4V battery pack. Would probably "function" for a short time till that pack dropped below 5V at which time the light will shut off.

    Oh as for the optic. Wide spot and narrow are both a narrow hot spot but the wide spot has a much smoother transition to the spill versus the narrow spot has a very strong hot spot.

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  32. #232
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    I ended up placing the order with the flood and wide-spot.

    I also ordered and extra extension cable so I can try to slice an adapter cable (using one end of a Cygolite extension and the other end of a Ituo extension). I see that the Panasonic NCR18650B spec'd in the Ituo battery has a charging voltage of 4.2V (hence the 8.4 for Ituo spec) but a nominal voltage of 3.6 (7.2V). As the Cygolite battery is spec'd somewhere in the middle but should be essentially similar cells I'm hoping it's just the the way the volts are calculated. Anyway, we'll see when I try it. So far it's a $8 experiment for the extension cable...

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    I think you'll be happy with 1 wide and 1 spot, in neutral white.
    I ended upgrading to a vancbiker aluminum finned mount on mine, but the stock mount isn't bad at all.

    You may be surprised how long the 7.6v battery runs.

    Quote Originally Posted by TheNormsk View Post
    I ended up placing the order with the flood and wide-spot.

    I also ordered and extra extension cable so I can try to slice an adapter cable (using one end of a Cygolite extension and the other end of a Ituo extension). I see that the Panasonic NCR18650B spec'd in the Ituo battery has a charging voltage of 4.2V (hence the 8.4 for Ituo spec) but a nominal voltage of 3.6 (7.2V). As the Cygolite battery is spec'd somewhere in the middle but should be essentially similar cells I'm hoping it's just the the way the volts are calculated. Anyway, we'll see when I try it. So far it's a $8 experiment for the extension cable...

  34. #234
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    Ituo WIZ XP2-001-2-.jpg

    Used this battery and a couple of Gemini 5200 4 cells for several years with various Gemini, Gloworm, Xeccon, and MS lights with no issues. Took them out of service about a yr. ago so didn't use them with the Ituo lights but it's a risk I'd take rather than throwing away a perfectly good battery. Please let us know how it works.

    Ituo WIZ XP2-001.jpg

    If you're not satisfied with the results you get from the optics you ordered this is what I use for bar application (Gloworm XS wide angle - elliptical optic). They don't rate the angle spread but my guess would be 10-15 degrees vertical and 20-25 degrees horizontal. Minimizes the intensity loss and foreground glare you get with a typical symmetrical wide angle optic. More expensive but works for me and the terrain I ride in (+ paved riding too).
    Mole

  35. #235
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    Ituo WIZ XP2

    Well I got my XP2 lights today. I haven't gone for a ride yet but in the garage it blew my old MityCross 480 away (even on its low setting). I can tell straight off that the beam pattern and color is very nice.

    I wasn't totally convinced on the rubbery battery as I've had hard shell batteries for years but it seams to work pretty well. I just hope the neoprene case holds up.

    I've found the remote switch a bit non responsive at times and at others I've doubled pressed and gone into programming mode (often as it didn't respond straight away on first click). I'm hoping that's not an issue and is a learning curve.

    I was going to compare the light to my MityCross 800 but I think I killed it when I accidentally plugged the wrong battery into it. Now I'm wishing I bought a combo deal (and of course the price has gone up since I bought)......

  36. #236
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    Actually not more expensive. I placed another order for a second set of XP2. I don't need the power of the XP3 and I like the longer run times of these. I'll have a XP2 (with flood and wide-spot on the bars) and a XP2 with narrow-spot and wide-spot on my helmet. I'm looking forward to having a balanced pair of lights and around 3000 lumens on full burn.

    I'll have to put a dab of paint or something on the lights so I can tell each one from the other I also may be ordering a couple of VancBiker's AL mounts in the future. The bar light is mounted on a combo Garmin/GoPro arm that places the light directly ahead of the stem and in front of my cables (it'll be nice to no longer have cable shadow in the beam shot) and the helmet light can attach to the GoPro mount at came with my helmet. It should be a good set up.

  37. #237
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    Integrated type gopro mounting is always awesome. I just wish on helmets they would do them more forward/lower. Small lights aren't bad up top but Gopros and big lights tend to get annoying.

    Be sure to post pics, that's the rules here

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  38. #238
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    Actually on my Bell Super (the original one, which I only use winter time) the GoPro mount is forward. I've never used it before but this looks to be a good use of it now. Plus the XP2 light head is so small. It's smaller than I imagined it to be.

    I may have more of a challenge attaching it to my summer time, Fox Flux helmet. That one has a very sculpted top that is not vary light friendly. But alas, it is one of the few helmets that is comfortable on my odd shaped noggin.

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    I know the odd shaped noggin problem. My head is actually rounder instead of egg shaped. Makes helmets a task. Bell is the only helmets out of the box that fit perfectly.

    Just got a fly racing helmet in, was bummed at first till I realized the thick foam pads on the sides come off easy enough. Switched that for some pads they included (that I have no idea where they would go) and fits nicely now. I needed something with more ventilation than my stoker cause hot and humid summers I cook in the thing if I'm not where I can stay at high speeds.

    Also understand trying to mount on the more sculpted helmets. Getting a light stable on my bell road helmet is something I have given up on for right now lol.

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  40. #240
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    I created my adapter cable today by splicing the two halves of a Ituo and Cygolite extension cable together. I tested the output voltage of both packs and while the Cygolite pack was slightly higher (it was freshly charged) it ended up the same as the Ituo pack at 8.18V.

    The adapter cable works great so now I have another 5400mAh pack as a backup to the two 6800mAh packs I will have. I should be able to ride for a long time and not worry about running out of juice. I like to be prepared. In addition to the helmet and bar light I usually carry a backup battery and a self contain Light an Motion 550 light. I was once an hour away from home when my lights died because I'd forgotten to charge the battery and I ended up riding home on the light of my cell phone. Never again...

  41. #241
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    So I got a couple of rides in now. One on wide multi-use paths and one fat biking in the snow in the mountains on tight single track.

    For the first ride I was actually a bit disappointed. The light was nice but it really didn't seem that bright (I was running mostly on medium). I have the lights configured so I have a flood/wide spot on the bars and a narrow spot/wide spot on my helmet. The light was plenty on high but medium seemed lacking (of course I could tune them to ramp them up to 900). It may have been the nature of the ride, wide trails in a mostly featureless landscape. I came out of the ride thinking that for those type of rides I may do better with the lamps reversed so on the bar I have a light that projects further and the helmet light is more of a flood so I don't have to turn my head so much to see round corners. But I reserved judgement for a proper test.

    Tonight I did a group ride fat biking in the snow. It involved a 1000ft of climbing which resulted in 1000ft of descending fast through tight single track and snow ladened pine trees. I left the lights in the configuration I had before, more flood on the bars and narrower on the head. This time it was fantastic! Medium is great for the climbs and general riding. Low worked well for giving light while chatting/hanging around (there were 19 of us). High was awesome on the descents. Really the best lights I have ever used. With both lights on high I was outshining many of the other lights in the pack. In the snow it was like daylight. It was ridiculously bright and easy to see. I could tell the neutral color of the light from others that had bluer lights. Considering snow reflects a lot, I found the XP2s easy on the eyes and they gave no glare.

    So I think for true mountain bike type riding my combination and lens focusing in great. For more gravel grinding rides on wide multi-use paths I think I will reverse the lights.

    Anyway. Good lights. I'm glad I lost and broke my Cygolite now.

  42. #242
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    Thanks for the update. Now you see why all of us are loving them. I run xp3 lid xp2 bars mostly (except been playing with XP4s which one is the equivalent of 2 XP2s).

    You may find also swapping just one optic out on your bar light for one with more throw may do better at balancing things out for the gravel/path type use.
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  43. #243
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    I'm about to pull the trigger on one of these for my helmet. For the bars I'm doing either another XP2, or a Wiz20 (self contained).
    I like the idea of taking cells and swapping them as needed, as well as being able to balance them after a few months of cold riding. If I just did XP2, do any of you gurus know where I could find a waterproof 2 or 4 cell battery holder that I could swap cells on the trail if needed? (2 cell would be nice for mounting rear of helmet). I can take this to another forum if needed, but just looking for sources on if it would be worth my time to try and make it work (if the connectors fit, if it kills runtime, etc). If it's a PITA I will just get spare non-serviceable battery packs that fit the XP2 light.

  44. #244
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    There's not anything out there that is a direct fit. And what is out there uses smaller guage wire which "can" effect performance.

    If your planning on dealing with swapping cells in a 2 cell, why not just run with the stock 4 cell pack and put it in a jersey pocket or the like. I have a couple 2 cell cases (can't get them anymore anywhere sadly) and only use them for shorter rides. Especially during the winter, rarely do I use my 2 cell for more than a 30 minute ride in the cold.

    Rides where I need more run time the 4 cell pack put in my hydropack (or jacket pocket when it's cold.). A 2 cell means stopping, taking helmet off, changing cells in the dark and so on. And you risk putting the cells in backwards (which is a problem if you don't use a case with reverse polarity protection).

    I like 2 cells packs for convenience if my ride is under 1.5 hrs but found it a hassle beyond that.

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  45. #245
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    Just stick with the 6800mAh battery. No worries on run time with that. I did a 2-1/2 hour ride in 17F temps (which will shorten battery run time) and I left my lights on medium the entire time except for when I was running high.

    On medium they are expected to run 8 hours. 4 hours on high. Even with the cold potentially shortening medium run time to say 4 hours that still gave me plenty of reserve.

    Just stick the battery in your pack and enjoy the ride. You don't want to mess around with changing batteries in the dark (or in deep snow). Been there, done that. Prefer not to do it again.

  46. #246
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    I didn't mind swapping batteries in 15F weather up until you drop one in the snow and have to find it. Then I was pissed. Never forgot to charge before a ride again. Use my wiz20 on my fat bike usually since Im out for more than an hour(solo). Just a wide spot/flood optic and let is blast on high.

    When I do group stuff I'm the same way, 4 cell packs. Not because we spend plenty of time goofing off and using beer and whisky to stay warm lol.

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    I've got a set of (2) XP2s - can't wait for the midwest trails to dry out so I can give them a try.

    What optic combos would people recommend for bar / helmet? They've got the stock narrow spot in both at the moment.
    Would this be a good starting point?
    Bar: Flood/WideSpot
    Helmet: NarrowSpot/WideSpot

    I'm wondering if two widespots on the helmet would lack throw, or maybe double widespot would be good for bars? Or is it best to leave one narrowspot in each of the lights for throw?

    Also, wondering for those of you getting close to 4 full hours runtime, was this out of the box? I charged the batteries (6 hours each) so I'm not sure if they were already drained. I sat them in front of a fan on high and did a couple test runs each (same times for both tests) and they both turned red at 2:50, and shut off at 3:38. (didn't notice much cutback in brightness at the end but maybe I was adjusting).

    In all, they seem to be really nice quality. I can't believe how small and bright they are.

  48. #248
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    I roll with a flood/wide spot on the bars and wide/narrow mix (but I use xp3 on the helmet).

    As for runtimes, they will vary by a few minutes, runtimes increase slightly after a few uses, their only rated for >3hrs. Your getting over 3.5hrs first charge. So everything is well in range there.

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  49. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by ztbishop View Post
    I've got a set of (2) XP2s - can't wait for the midwest trails to dry out so I can give them a try.

    What optic combos would people recommend for bar / helmet? They've got the stock narrow spot in both at the moment.
    Would this be a good starting point?
    Bar: Flood/WideSpot
    Helmet: NarrowSpot/WideSpot
    I currently have a narrow and wide on my helmet XP2 and a wide/flood on my bars. I'm finding that this combination is not my preferred liking. I am going to swap it an move the narrow/wide to my bars and the flood/wide to my helmet.

    The rational here is that my head moves around a lot but my bars do not as we don't really have much in the way of twisty trails here in Colorado. Hence I get more of a hot spot that swings around with my head movement. I also flick my eyes around and not necessarily my head so the light is not always where my eyes want to me. So, the more tightly focused beam on the bars works well when I'm traveling fast and also keeps the "hotter" narrower beam more stable. The flood/wide on the helmet gives much more diffused light that reaches out to my periphery so I have light where I want it for the closer (looking round trees) navigation.

  50. #250
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    Quote Originally Posted by ztbishop View Post
    Also, wondering for those of you getting close to 4 full hours runtime, was this out of the box? I charged the batteries (6 hours each) so I'm not sure if they were already drained. I sat them in front of a fan on high and did a couple test runs each (same times for both tests) and they both turned red at 2:50, and shut off at 3:38. (didn't notice much cutback in brightness at the end but maybe I was adjusting).
    I rode for 3:30hr last night and I ran about 65% on medium and 35% on high for both lights during that time. I had no issues with run time.

    I did have an issue yesterday though and I discovered something to be aware off. I plugged my batteries in to charge them from the prior ride (both batteries were around 50% charge). I saw that a green light came on the power brick so I assumed they were charging. Later after putting them on my bike, my helmet would not light at all and my bar went off after two minutes and would not come back on. I tested both heads with a non Ituo battery and they worked fine. I then tested the batteries and neither one put out voltage (though my volt meter may have died recently). Checking more I found the powerstrip my chargers were plugged into was had been knocked off so it was not charging. Instead it seems that plugging a battery into a non powered charger will actually discharge it.

    What should happen is with the charger powered but not connected to a battery it should show a green light. Then when you connect the battery the light will turn red until it is fully charged at which point it will turn green again. Check that you chargers are actually powered. After I recharged mine they ran fine, though I do always carry an extra battery and a whole one piece back up light just to be safe.

  51. #251
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    While I'm here, I am posting this to RAKC Ind.

    I have a couple of things with my dual XP2 setup that I hope you can comment on.

    1) My helmet light which currently is configured with Wide/Narrow lens seems much dimmer on medium and low than my bar light that is floor/wide. I thought it was the flood that reduced brightness but mine appears opposite. I have done factory reset on it so it should not have been reprogrammed. On high, it seems comparable to the other light but I still sense it is a little dimmer. Why might this be?

    2) I am getting very erratic behaviour from my bar light when using the remote. I have to be very deliberate to push between button pushes to prevent it from going into programming mode. I have a process where I switch the lights alternately to prevent a double push. However, many times when the light is on high and I want to knock it down to medium I will press the remote but the light immediately goes into programming mode (rather than drop to dim). I then have to double press to get out of this. The double press does not always work though and the light settings get messed up (for example changing order from low-med-high to high-med-low-flash). Ultimately I manage to switch it off then I do a factory reset. Last night I think I had to do this about seven times on the ride. It really pissed me off. The helmet light does not have these issues. So I am wondering what is up and if some part of this is defective? I have reseated the remote cable in the head as you have said that can be flaky at times.

    Finally, a recommendation for a future enhancement. The remote should not be allowed to go into programming mode. Programming should be restricted to the button on the light head. This way, it can still be reprogrammed but accidental activation of programming mode will not occur through the remote. For general riding the remote could be used for rapidly switching through the light settings low-med-high. I would add that the remote also should not be used to getting into special mode. That should also be activated from the light head. After all, normal/special mode is only selected once as you switch the system on. Remote should be reserved from changing the intensity of the light.

    That's it.

  52. #252
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    The brightness issue is because a flood optic set up spreads the light in close, when mixed with wide spot it creates a pretty bright area in close. That's compared to the other where the hot spot is where the majority of the light is concentrated.

    Basically it messes with the eyes for some people. This is why I go higher power on the helmet (xp3 in my case) as then it balances out better. For me I think it's more how sensitive your peripheral vision is. This is why some go with what we use for a helmet beam pattern on their bars as well.

    But turn around and point it light at something 100yrds out and see which light does a better job of lighting everything up at that distance. That shows the difference.

    It's hard to get up to speed on how it all works and why, I'll do my best to explain as best as I can (other guys will probably jump in too). But it's a personal preference thing. May try dual flood on the bars or go dual wide. It's why we offer options, not everyone likes the same thing.

    As for the remote thing. That's a major task and costly as it involves an entire secondary circuit board and so on. Adds cost. But when everything works like it's supposed to (no glitchy remote port) it's all but Impossible to access programming mode while riding. I've tried to do it and can't.

    Now as for the glitchy remote, send an email, we'll warranty that light no problem. It's not a common issue or anything (had a couple XP3s do it when they were released).

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  53. #253
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    The remote on my very recently purchased XP2 is all but completely worthless for the same reasons you noted TheNormsk. I'm seriously considering just not even bringing it on rides because it causes way way more trouble then it's worth. It's honestly a pretty huge letdown as this was the primary reason of going with this light over a much less expensive yinding.

    The light is overall good quality, But I have to say for anyone considering any of the ITUO lights right now, consider the remote an absolute non feature of this light. It's not worth the materials it's made of.

    I'm holding off on my review of this light so far because I'm still trying to sort out my usage of it... Right now I've had to spend another 75 dollars to get the handlebar situation sorted out once the oem mount broke.

    Edited, Working with RAK to resolve.
    Last edited by minimusprime; 03-14-2017 at 08:16 AM.

  54. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by minimusprime View Post
    I'm holding off on my review of this light so far because I'm still trying to sort out my usage of it... Right now I've had to spend another 75 dollars to get the handlebar situation sorted out once the oem mount broke.
    I did not use the OEM mount. I have been using this Garmin/GoPro mount instead. It's not high quality (alignment of the light is very dependent the mount being straight - mine is very slightly twisted) but it works good enough. I mount the head unit upside on the GoPro mount. The GoPro mount on the stem appears to be incorrectly sized so it is a little difficult to attach the light mount at first, but once attached you don't need to mess with it.

    I'm now debating on getting two more of these for my other bikes or getting the more expensive K-Edge version.

  55. #255
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAKC Ind View Post
    As for the remote thing. That's a major task and costly as it involves an entire secondary circuit board and so on. Adds cost. But when everything works like it's supposed to (no glitchy remote port) it's all but Impossible to access programming mode while riding. I've tried to do it and can't.

    Now as for the glitchy remote, send an email, we'll warranty that light no problem. It's not a common issue or anything (had a couple XP3s do it when they were released).
    Thanks, I'll follow up by email.

  56. #256
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    I had PMd you previously asking what the issues were as I definitely make sure warranty matters are dealt with as quickly as possible. Not sure when you purchased your light but if you had issues for this long, why did you not respond or contact me? Would have had the matter taken care of as quickly as possible.

    Even a customer being in Canada, it's no problem for us to take care of warranty issues.

    I also handle warranties for ones bought off Amazon. Though until last month it was via Ituo directly only it doesn't matter:

    ALL ITUO WARRANTY MATTERS ARE HANDLED BY ME DIRECTLY, RIGHT HERE IN CURRENTLY FREEZING COLD (though had tornadoes early this last week and now snow on the way tomorrow and Monday) NORTH WESTERN ILLINOIS. FULTON IL 61252 TO BE EXACT. Only way we could be more centered is to relocate to St. Louis MO. Lol.

    To be honest out of the large number of xp2 and xp3's out there, I'm now aware of a total of 5 that have had electronic issues and need/needed warrantied. But if I don't know that a light is having a problem, I can't get it squared away.

    Even the highest of high end can have problems in any product, that's why there is a warranty.

    Thanks.

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    Last edited by RAKC Ind; 03-14-2017 at 09:34 AM.
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  57. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by minimusprime View Post
    The remote on my very recently purchased XP2 is all but completely worthless for the same reasons you noted TheNormsk. I'm seriously considering just not even bringing it on rides because it causes way way more trouble then it's worth. It's honestly a pretty huge letdown as this was the primary reason of going with this light over a much less expensive yinding.

    The light is overall good quality, But I have to say for anyone considering any of the ITUO lights right now, consider the remote an absolute non feature of this light. It's not worth the materials it's made of.

    I'm holding off on my review of this light so far because I'm still trying to sort out my usage of it...
    Please, do yourself a favor and just get ITUO to replace the lamp you have ( on warranty ). Always a pain when you get something that doesn't work right but it happens. Doesn't mean the over-all product is bad. Like what was said, all companies have bad ones from time to time. I have a newer Gloworm X2 that also goes into programming mode if I "rapid fire" the remote to get to a desired mode. Nothing wrong with the lamp per say ( in this case ) I just have fast fingers. In case of the XP2 the ITUO's don't seem to have the same issue unless ( like you said ) yours has a problem and is going into programming mode. My Gloworm isn't fixable but yours is if you get it replaced ( on warranty I'm assuming ).

    EDIT UPDATE; Poster that was quoted has since followed the recommendations and has resolved the issue with the manufacturer. This has been posted by request.
    Last edited by Cat-man-do; 03-14-2017 at 05:39 PM.

  58. #258
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    Hey all, I wanted to follow up on my flaky XP2 issue.

    Good news!

    It may have been a bad connection after all, I swapped the lights tonight so the narrow/wide is on the bars (the one that was flaky) and the flood/narrow on the helmet. During the swap one of the little o-rings fell out of the remote port of the head unit. I believe somehow the o-ring dislodged itself from the housing of the remote and got between the male and female parts preventing a good fit - sort of acting as a condom! So while it seemed like the remote was fully connected it may not have been.

    Testing with the remotes in the swapped heads and the o-ring properly seated I am finding the lights are acting properly and it is now not dropping into programming mode by accident. In fact I can double press within about a 1/2 second and the light will cycle through low-med-high as it ought to. It requires a very fast double click to get into programming mode.

    I have not done a ride yet but just in testing it appears to be good. So I wanted to follow up just to let others know that the reliability of the lights appears to be good but if you do have any weirdness in the remote, check the seating of the tiny clear o-ring that sits on the male plug.

  59. #259
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    Thats awesome and something I never thought to mention. That entire set up is rather tight fitting and touchy (but its water proof and removable, so has to be).

    Keep us updated!
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  60. #260
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    Thanks for posting that TheNormsk . Getting to know your light through others experiences is one of the great things about MTBR. Never had that problem with my XP2/XP3 but will now know what to do if it ever pops up.
    Mole

  61. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNormsk View Post
    Hey all, I wanted to follow up on my flaky XP2 issue.

    Good news!

    It may have been a bad connection after all, I swapped the lights tonight so the narrow/wide is on the bars (the one that was flaky) and the flood/narrow on the helmet. During the swap one of the little o-rings fell out of the remote port of the head unit. I believe somehow the o-ring dislodged itself from the housing of the remote and got between the male and female parts preventing a good fit - sort of acting as a condom! So while it seemed like the remote was fully connected it may not have been.

    Testing with the remotes in the swapped heads and the o-ring properly seated I am finding the lights are acting properly and it is now not dropping into programming mode by accident. In fact I can double press within about a 1/2 second and the light will cycle through low-med-high as it ought to. It requires a very fast double click to get into programming mode.

    I have not done a ride yet but just in testing it appears to be good. So I wanted to follow up just to let others know that the reliability of the lights appears to be good but if you do have any weirdness in the remote, check the seating of the tiny clear o-ring that sits on the male plug.
    Interesting... the o-ring for my remote also disappeared on my first ride. I checked the light head thoroughly to see if it some how got lodged inside the light head but didn't see anything. I'll check again when I get home today.

    for those following along in my never ending saga of the quest for night riding bliss... Keith from ITUO/RAK cross shipped me a new light head with literally zero fuss. TBH, in all my years as an internet consumer, I've never had a single vendor cross ship me something without charging my card as a deposit.

    In the world of Amazon, and other massive publicly traded high volume low margin e-tailers... it's very rare to be impressed by customer service. Color me impressed. In truth, I should have handled all of this internally before ever coming to the boards....

  62. #262
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    [QUOTE]
    Quote Originally Posted by minimusprime View Post
    The remote on my very recently purchased XP2 is all but completely worthless for the same reasons you noted TheNormsk. I'm seriously considering just not even bringing it on rides because it causes way way more trouble then it's worth. It's honestly a pretty huge letdown as this was the primary reason of going with this light over a much less expensive yinding.
    Luckily I have not had the remote issue you experienced and from your most receint post glad to here you got this worked out. My guess is if you were willing to spend the extra money to get the XP2 that even not considering the remote you'd still be a lot happier with it over the Yinding. Yinding is great for the price but only makes about 60% of the XP2's power (measured with my light meter) and has the worst mode switching button I've ever used of my 20+ lights (Ituo has the best - 1 finger). Yinding is also very prone to overheating which is not an issue with the XP2.

    I'm holding off on my review of this light so far because I'm still trying to sort out my usage of it... Right now I've had to spend another 75 dollars to get the handlebar situation sorted out once the oem mount broke.
    What mount system did you spend $75 on? I've been using "Vancbiker" mounts. Excellent products and less than what you spent.

    Ituo WIZ XP2-002-4-.jpg

    Mole

  63. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post

    What mount system did you spend $75 on? I've been using "Vancbiker" mounts. Excellent products and less than what you spent.

    Mole
    I use my lights on three different bikes, two with 31.8mm bars and one with 35mm bars. That being the case, the vancbiker handlebar clamp wouldn't work. I ended up getting one of his 2 bolt go-pro compatible mounts and then getting a gopro pro handlebar mount.



    https://shop.gopro.com/mounts/pro-ha...AMHSM-001.html

    Ironically it's very very similar to the vancbiker setup that you have, but it accommodates different bar clamps. It's overly expensive and is made of all aluminum which is nice, but does not provide a failure (sacrificial) mode for crashes... I'm working on getting a plastic gopro adapter integrated so there is some where for it to break. I'm going to night ride tomorrow so I'll get it all setup and take pictures tonight.

  64. #264
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    OMG, GoPro is really raping the brand name on that one damn. Nice mount no doubt but $60, ouch.

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  65. #265
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    Looks like a nice setup. Look forward to seeing it mounted to bike/light.
    Mole

  66. #266
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAKC Ind View Post
    OMG, GoPro is really raping the brand name on that one damn. Nice mount no doubt but $60, ouch.
    Nice mount. There may be a pretty good markup going on there, but really when I look at it it seems fairly priced for what is likely a lower volume seller for a corporation.

    Their clamp halves are 2 different pieces where my upper and lower clamp pieces are identical. Then they have all the rubber adapter sleeves. Mold costs have to be amortized into the projected sales.

    Personally, I choose to make individual sizes as I don't care for using size adapter sleeves on my own stuff. Particularly when using a mount that can fit a 35mm bar on a 22.2 bar. The mount and sleeve would look way out of place IMO.

    One thing I see with selling the GoPro light adapters is that the majority of riders seem to leave the GoPro mount on the bike all the time and just switch out what they are putting on it. Camera for day rides and lights for nights.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  67. #267
    RAKC Industries
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    I'm mostly that way, I don't take my mounts off usually.

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  68. #268
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    Photo Overload, because why not.










  69. #269
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    I'm guessing that little extension isn't needed? Makes for a nice little set up but I'm still like "WTF" on the price tag. Especially when it price wasn't stupid they would sell a lot more.

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  70. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAKC Ind View Post
    I'm guessing that little extension isn't needed? Makes for a nice little set up but I'm still like "WTF" on the price tag. Especially when it price wasn't stupid they would sell a lot more.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    The extension is a plastic gopro adapter. I wanted to add it so that I had a failure point in the mounting solution. Overall I'm happy with this setup. It's needlessly expensive but it's solid and and usable on a wide range of bikes. The nice thing about the extra little knuckle I have in there is that it gives me the opportunity to keep one of the joints hand tight (instead of gorilla) which allows on the fly angle adjustments.

    FWIW, there is something funky with the ITUO iteration of the gopro mounting solution. Once you mate a gopro mount to the ITUO quick release gopro adapter, it starts to get jammed up. My guess is that the 2 slot gopro adapter that is provided with the ITUO lights is a bit too short and causes some interference when you mate them together enough to slide a bolt through. It feels like 2mm more space would make the difference. This is by no means a game breaker because everything fits together with a little umph behind it... but it's easy to put too much force into it and snap the oem ITUO mount. Although, it could easily be debated that this is a feature instead of destroying the light head during a crash.

  71. #271
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    I use the Elecor Outfront mount to mount both my garmin and the XP2.

    It's cheap ($15) and works well for the cost. It gets the XP2 out front and infront of my cables. Plus it is nicely centered on the bars. It's plastic so it will provide the point of failure if needed as well.

  72. #272
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    Being that he has a Garmin too I surprised that idea didn't cross his mind. Xp2 is lighter than a GoPro, would make a great solution for those running garmins.

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  73. #273
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    I really don't want my garmin in front of the handlebars for a few reasons:
    1) Hard to see that far away. I do a lot of riding where you spend 2 hours straight climbing and then 30 minutes descending 5-10 continuous miles. It's tough to see the garmin at speed if it's that far out in front while going downhill.
    2) Over the bar protection. I ride at the limit often and crashing is a part of the sport. I've crushed a few garmins over the years having them that far out front
    3) Stability of the mounts. Here in socal, chop and tech is the name of the game. The out front mounts tend to vibrate and shake. This bugs me both with regards to the light and the garmin.
    4) Aesthetics, there I said it... I run one of those mounts on my road bike... but I don't want them on my mtb.

  74. #274
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    Decided I'd see what all the fuss what about and ordered an XP-2 kit on Monday. Out for delivery now in NorCal...fast shipping!
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  75. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by minimusprime View Post
    .......3) Stability of the mounts. Here in socal, chop and tech is the name of the game. The out front mounts tend to vibrate and shake. This bugs me both with regards to the light and the garmin.
    I can't believe that a plastic "out front" style mount would be stable for trail riding with the weight of a GPS and light or camera hanging on it. The aluminum one like K-edge is very stiff. I've used one of the K-edge clones with just a light and could not see any added vibration or shaking of the light. Usage is everything though. Possibly fine for road use.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  76. #276
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    Well I ride in the Rocky Mountains which are fairly... rocky.

    I have not ridden with the Elecor in the high mountains yet this year as they are covered in snow still (did take it fat biking though). For the dry trails down low I have not noticed any instability when plowing at up to 25 mph through rougher terrain (then again my Fox 36 smooths things out a lot). Last year I was using a SRAM plastic Garmin mount out front and that was rock solid. That mount did not have the GoPro attachment though.

    I found the Elecor seemed wobbly at first but I found that it needs to be fully tight (the opening around the bars need to be fully clamped shut). Once it tight it is solid for the XP2/Garmin combo.

    If you want a more solid mount for an actual GoPro then you should probably go with the K-Edge but that is $65. For just XP2/Garmin duties the Elecor is just fine.

  77. #277
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    Funny you should say that vanc, I'm making a similar (but longer) mount for my road bike right now. Get my light down low.

    But using aluminum. If it doesn't take me too long I may make another one (shorter) for my plus bike. Not enough spacer in that one for a minoura mount (which is kind short reaching anyway)

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  78. #278
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    Quote Originally Posted by minimusprime View Post
    3) Stability of the mounts. Here in socal, chop and tech is the name of the game. The out front mounts tend to vibrate and shake. This bugs me both with regards to the light and the garmin.
    The Morsa mount is very stiff, being made of carbon fiber filled nylon and being fairly beefy. Allows you to mount a variety of things up, down, in or out.
    Ituo WIZ XP2-10672391_826681594030325_7089006859679285743_n.jpg
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  79. #279
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    Ituo WIZ XP2

    I'm still trying to figure out my preferred lens set up.

    I started with flood/wide on bars and wide/narrow on my helmet. It was good but I felt the bars were lacking throw and the helmet lacking flood. So I swapped them.

    Swapped did not feel right either. The flood on the helmet was nice but now I felt like I had no spot. Conversely the bars lacked the spread and seemed to bounce around more (hey perhaps my plastic mount is bouncy after all).

    So I've ordered another flood lens. I think this time I will put a flood/narrow on both lights. Hopefully they'll feel balanced and I'll get a good compromise of flood and throw.

    I'm also getting three more quick releases/GoPro mounts so I can easily swap the lights between my three bikes and two helmets.

  80. #280
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    I'm still playing with optics as well. FWIW, I'm currently running 2x wide spots on the handle bars and 1 flood and 1 narrow spot on my helmet light.

  81. #281
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    Your surprisingly running about the opposite of most. I've always kept my wider patterns on the bars, run a combo of wide and narrow on the lid.

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  82. #282
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    I just got my XP2 package in, and it looks good. Except for one thing: I slid the light head onto the quick release bracket, and now it won't come off. The tab that looks to be the release doesn't actually release the light, so it's stuck on there. Anyone have this same issue?
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  83. #283
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    You put it in backwards. A few people have done this (doesn't go in backwards easily, kind of have to force it)

    There's a little metal pin, use something to push it out so the latch falls out then light will slide out.

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  84. #284
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    Maybe this is why Ituo uses such a long power cable on their battery. Nice battery placement configuration, will try using it for a while.
    Mole

    Ituo WIZ XP2-003.jpg

  85. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    Maybe this is why Ituo uses such a long power cable on their battery. Nice battery placement configuration, will try using it for a while.
    Mole

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    You should wrap the wire around the top tube so it doesn't flap around while riding. But yes, I agree, as it gives you lots of options.

  86. #286
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    Way too much cord in my opinion. I'd likely try to coil the wire inside the battery bag, mount ( upside down ) on the down tube and pull out just the amount of cord I need. If that didn't work I'd likely shorten the wire myself by accessing the cord to the battery PCB and doing the deed direct. No way I could stand for that much wire flapping about. The ITUO battery bag looks a lot like the one I have from Xeccon. ( has the wide stretchy strap with buckle and velcro ). I mount mine upside down on the down tube because the top tube has all the shifter-cable / brake-line stuff. Not that I can't mount on the top tube, just easier not dealing with the cables. Anyway, no problem mounting on the down tube. Mine doesn't move unless something hits it.

    Tomorrow ( today ) I'll be doing my first Mt. bike ride of 2017. Can't wait to feel dirt under my tires again. BTW, nice bike MRM.

  87. #287
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    It's not hard to deal with the cord at all. Bundle it a little and secure it under that battery pouch strap.

    It's what I do.

    It actually makes sense to me to be that long. Makes for more options of places to mount the packs. Like I can't use a short cable set up on my fat bike, frame bag in the way.

    I've mounted to down tube and top tube. Down tube has always been a bit more touchy. Hydro formed tubes make for some weird shapes or a purely round tube (my fat bike) the only thing that actually doesn't move is the neoprene pouches.

    I actually like the long wires myself, gives me options. Not hard to just bundle the extra and secure it with the strap for the pack (it's what I always did on the 29er) but not having to add 3ft if cable to put the pack like Mole is I like.

    My fat bike I have the pack back almost that far.

    Haven't taken the new plus bike out after dark YET.

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