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  1. #1
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    GoPro light adapter with fins for additional heatsinking

    I have added a new version to my lineup of GoPro light adapters. Some of the small dual emitter lights could use some additional heat dissipation. This has been discussed some in the Yinding thread.

    This version adds ~3 square inches of fin surface area to help shed some of the heat. They will come standard with a hole drilled to suit the M4 screw that is typically used on most Chinese lights. They will also be available undrilled if desired. I can also do other mods if desired.

    The picture showing the adapter mounted to a Yinding is of the prototype and courtesy of Ofroad'bent who has been kind enough to be my tester (guinea pig) with early versions of the adapters. The fins on the production version are deeper and slightly wider to add a bit more area and airflow.

    PM or email for additional info.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails GoPro light adapter with fins for additional heatsinking-dscn1909.jpg  

    GoPro light adapter with fins for additional heatsinking-finned-mount.jpg  

    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  2. #2
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    Dang that thing gets hot!

    Guess that means it's working. Yinding didn't step down to Low like it usually does when I run it on High for over a minute.

    GoPro light adapter with fins for additional heatsinking-image.jpg

    Thanks, Kevin!

  3. #3
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    That looks sweet!

    -Garry

  4. #4
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    Did you get the complete mount from Kevin? Looks like a nice setup

  5. #5
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    @andychrist.. Nice looking setup! Glad to hear it improved the heat management for you. Did you use any thermal paste between the adapter and light?

    @GJHS.. I can't take any credit for the bar clamp portion. It is a nice looking piece. Hopefully andy will chime in with info on that.
    Last edited by Vancbiker; 03-17-2015 at 10:42 PM. Reason: added question
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  6. #6
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    Bar mount just looks like gopro aluminum mount, all over amazon last I looked. Definately cheating for putting this adapter mount to the test

    Cant WAIT to get mine And seeing as gopro adaption is almost the best way to go for having mounting options (I have an ION camera too) Ill probably end up with one or 2 more later on. For the record, this one was ordered for KD 2, yinding clone looking version (for anyone trying to figure out what this will and wont fit)

    THnx Vanc for taking the time to do this for all of us.
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  8. #8
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    ya found a few now lol. DEcisions Decisions. ANd trying to decide how important bar light being centered (thus extended in front of bars) is to me, is it $18 plus shipping worth it (Action LED mounts)lol.



    Actually: Better Yet

    Amazon.com : KongYiJi Brand New Aluminum alloy Sport Bike Bicycle Expand Handle Bar Extension Mount T Type Light Speedometer (Black) : Sports & Outdoors

    If that tube is aluminum (which its supposed to be) add the aluminum gopro mount, Vanc's adapter, one hellva heat sink,lol.

    Ordering one of these T extensions now, Ill report when it gets here.

    Kevin (plus archie sharing bar mount), you have the perfect way to get heat from head to mounts, aluminum adapter, aluminum mount. And for many, aluminum bars, or in my case I have carbon bars, so T extension.





    guess ill have to plan to order another one, Kevin, get to making one thats a bit bigger for the 3 emitter lights
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  9. #9
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    Yeah the GoPro style bar clamps are available both on Amazon and at all the usual suspects on Alibaba. Much cheaper there too of course but again shipping from China so a long wait. Thumb knobs had to be purchased separately, come in packages of three with two long and one short. As you've all noticed by now, clamps and knobs available in same colors as Yinding, as well as the Siver here which also goes so nicely with the KD MJ 880 clone. Posted that one before, Attachment 964259

    Just be advised, links to this item as well as descriptive head lines on the Chinese sites still list it as 21mm to 31.8mm but it is NOT adjustable that way and will ONLY fit the wider bars. Think that has since been corrected on Amazon's actual listings (because Guess Who made a little stink about it.) Oh well, along with the other parts I bought a roll of 1" aluminum tape to wrap around my bars. Heat travels all the way down through the adapter and into the clamp, will be interesting to see whether it transfers any farther. Haven't applied thermal paste, adapter sits pretty flush. Screw holes have to be countersunk into the aluminum plate so the 7.5mm diameter M4 screw heads sit below the surface, that's about it.

    Name:  image.jpg
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    Meantime I also have to replace all the cables and housings on both my bikes down here in the city so gonna be a little while before the whole setup is complete, but will post back with more pics then.

    Thanks again to Kevin, and also Ofroad'bent and GJHS and everybody else here for the info needed to get this together.
    Last edited by andychrist; 03-18-2015 at 02:51 AM. Reason: link to KD

  10. #10
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    Andychrist, the way I dealt with the bar issue was to buy some handlebar shims (like this) in the correct size & cut them to width

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    Thanks for the link f_b. Yes I saw those but my bars are only 22mm, they just have a short bulge to 25.4mm right in the center, hardly any wider than the stem. So those shims would not work for my set up. Fortunately though the aluminum tape will; haven't applied it yet to either of my city bikes but have used it before on some chopper bars upstate and it held clamps fine. Only question is whether the tape will continue the thermal path to the bars despite the [microscopically thin] adhesive layer under the aluminum. Place your bets now everybody!

  12. #12
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    im hoping and thinking the adapter will be plenty in itself (for headlamp use) in most cases. Thats my plan for it, my bar light is getting a custom mount made for it and since my bars are carbon, going to use an extender to put light in front of them, so extender will create more area. Vancs little thing is perfect for what we needed, helmet (now just if mine would GET HERE,lol, stupid mail is slow)
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  13. #13
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    Well tigris I was astounded how hot the top half of the clamp got. Haven't tested YD with just Kevin's adapter but like I said before, with the complete alloy setup pictured, was able to run it on High without it stepping down on its own right away like it does with just the plastic mount. Then again this is all without any ventilation. Still, can't see any reason not to go all metal on helmet, if you're going to use the finned adapter in the first place.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    Well tigris I was astounded how hot the top half of the clamp got. Haven't tested YD with just Kevin's adapter but like I said before, with the complete alloy setup pictured, was able to run it on High without it stepping down on its own right away like it does with just the plastic mount. Then again this is all without any ventilation. Still, can't see any reason not to go all metal on helmet, if you're going to use the finned adapter in the first place.
    Rained here today so I did some still air indoor thermal testing of my Yinding vs 3 of my Gemini lights (1 Duo and 2 Olympias). I don't know if you actually timed when your light stepped down point but I was getting almost 5 min. before my Yinding stepped down with a light-head body temp of 150F. The times and light-head temp of the Duo and one Olympia were almost identical to the Yinding. My original Olympia I shut down @ 8 min.when the light-head body temp reached 170F. I think I need to try one of these finned adapters!
    Mole

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    Well tigris I was astounded how hot the top half of the clamp got. Haven't tested YD with just Kevin's adapter but like I said before, with the complete alloy setup pictured, was able to run it on High without it stepping down on its own right away like it does with just the plastic mount. Then again this is all without any ventilation. Still, can't see any reason not to go all metal on helmet, if you're going to use the finned adapter in the first place.


    I would love an aluminum gopro clip, and I think its doable. Plastic clip itself but aluminum where the thumb screw goes. Doable being gopro clips are 2 piece on the taller ones. Thnx more ideas lol.



    Here's pic used on my kd2







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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Here's pic used on my kd2
    The power cable exits the bottom of that light? Tell us what you did to the adapter to make it work. Maybe a picture of the bottom would be good.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  17. #17
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    Kd2 mount hole is further forward so new hole had to be drilled. As well as wire exits center bottom of case so stock hole (desoldered and resoldered cable) of adapter was perfect place.





    If my arm is up to it later im gonna run temp tests and compare against being on on plastic mount.
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  18. #18
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    TO EVERYONE READING THIS THREAD:

    I see a need for this mount with the surface that meets the light head/fins being wider. Would anyone else be interested in Vanc making a larger version for the bigger lights (or even for these small ones that aren't as good with heat that can use all the help they cam get)

    Post up interested if wanting a version about twice the size as current one.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Kd2 mount hole is further forward so new hole had to be drilled. As well as wire exits center bottom of case so stock hole (desoldered and resoldered cable) of adapter was perfect place.
    Thanks for that pic!

    I thought all the Duo/Yinding clones had the cable out the back.

    The number of variations in the Chinese lights is astounding. When I first started building adapters, I tried to put together a table of brands and models and all the pertinent dimensions. I quickly realized it was futile as within any particular brand and model, the measurements varied.
    Last edited by Vancbiker; 03-23-2015 at 09:07 PM. Reason: fix typo
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  20. #20
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    Ya its nuts. Ud have to mill a groove for the wire in several case types. I think its dumb, all should be out the back
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    I like the how the cable exits the Yinding, near the rear at about 4:30 — so it's not in shear, as would be were it run out the back. Doesn't interfere with the mount or get in the way when reaching for control button with left hand.

    Yeah tigris, was thinking perhaps the finned adapters could benefit from a wider contact area. But imagine Kevin must be getting tired of exchanging all the ones he's already made for me.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by andychrist View Post
    ....Yeah tigris, was thinking perhaps the finned adapters could benefit from a wider contact area.
    I think tigris is looking for an adapter with overall larger dimensions for the fin surfaces to use with larger lights.

    It's a bit of a balancing act on the current design. If the contact surface is larger, then you lose some fin surface area.

    I did not do any scientific testing on this adapter, as I no longer have access to a thermal imaging camera. I did apply a bit of what I learned from building several different designs of DIY lights when I had access to a camera. Aluminum is a really good conductor of heat. I would predict that with a heat source applied to the contact area, the distribution would be very close to equal between the upper and lower fins. Making a larger contact area would skew that to the upper fin being hotter with less area to radiate.

    I've heard of some software programs that simulate thermal distribution, but have never played with any. Might be a fun exercise for someone with some time on their hands.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    I think tigris is looking for an adapter with overall larger dimensions for the fin surfaces to use with larger lights.

    It's a bit of a balancing act on the current design. If the contact surface is larger, then you lose some fin surface area.
    Yes, and I was thinking along the same lines as tigris, Kevin. But the GearBest Yinding has no fins where it interfaces the original plastic mount, about 20mm across. Your finned adapter makes contact for slightly less than half that width. Same deal with SolarStorm X3. Oddly, KD MJ-880 clone has fins all over the bottom, and that is one heavy lamp which could benefit from a wider base contact for stability alone. Also notice there is a pretty big indent to mate with matching plug on that clone's plastic mount. To compensate on your adapter, will drill small hole there, tap to accept a wide head hex screw. Just gotta go "borrow" my brother's drill press when he isn't looking.

    GoPro light adapter with fins for additional heatsinking-image.jpg

    Thanks again Kevin for your diligence and patience!

  24. #24
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    For me can expand fins to compensate. My kd2 is 40mm wide with 20mm flat base. One that is the same size (20 base 40fins)would be awesome imo. For those of us wanting to push more outta our light heads anyway.
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  25. #25
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    A larger unit is certainly doable as a custom if someone wants one. I very much doubt that it would sell well enough to justify me running a batch.

    The current finned version could easily be changed to have a 12-14mm wide mounting surface on a second batch if that is the popular choice. Response to the finned version has been pretty blah.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

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