Page 6 of 11 FirstFirst ... 2345678910 ... LastLast
Results 251 to 300 of 519
  1. #251
    ww.glowormlites.co.nz
    Reputation: Gloworm Manufacture's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    360
    Quote Originally Posted by mazspeed View Post
    Is the X2 and XS going to be the 2015 line up or is there any new lights or replacements coming out this year? This question is for Bruce.
    Hey, the XS and X2 are both being reviewed. We have no new lights coming out in the near future but we are always working on ideas and improvements!

    Cheers

    Bruce and Vag
    Gloworm
    Gloworm Website

    '...it's more fun with the lites on!'

  2. #252
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MRMOLE's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,161
    Quote Originally Posted by Gloworm Manufacture View Post
    Hey, the XS and X2 are both being reviewed. We have no new lights coming out in the near future but we are always working on ideas and improvements!

    Cheers

    Bruce and Vag
    Gloworm
    Hi Gloworm,
    I own the latest version of X2 and as of tomorrow (according to USPS tracking) will also own an XS. My vote for "Improvements" is a more effective flood optic. Just customer feedback, love your products!
    Mole

  3. #253
    ~ B A D A S S ~
    Reputation: car bone's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    3,170
    Quote Originally Posted by Gloworm Manufacture View Post
    Hey, the XS and X2 are both being reviewed. We have no new lights coming out in the near future but we are always working on ideas and improvements!

    Cheers

    Bruce and Vag
    Gloworm
    What about using one of the cree array chips?? Some flashlight makers have started putting those in. Also maybe some good wide angle/flood light or wide and efficient optical lenses for the current ones. Or maybe a triple that uses large optics (and large cooling fins) like all the single emitter lights uses, for commuters or non weight concerned people.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  4. #254
    ~ B A D A S S ~
    Reputation: car bone's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    3,170
    Oh yeah I came up with a good idea last time i was drunk. Use only a potentiometer (or encoder) to adjust the light output and on/off. It goes click at 7o clock and when you turn it up it gets brighter. Or maybe one that you have to push down (axially) on to turn it on, then just turn up usual. And there could be the choice of having the pot mounted so it points to the rear, up or the side with some small removable plates, the pot would be on a similar plate and use a wire internally in the housing to make the actual chosen position non important for the function of the light.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  5. #255
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    652
    Not so good news

    My poor XS has been in better shape. First a faulty connection in the Y section of cable causing my button not to work most the time. Then I decided to cut out the Y and splice my own Y and while I was at it I lengthened the damn cables so they could reach the damn battery and my thumb like we've been asking for all year. Then due to my splicing creating a few extra stiff sections of cable it all reaches but is hardly what I'd want my $300 light cables to look like. So now I'm considering desoldering all the original wires and starting from scratch with some clean flexible wires of the proper length. Problem with the idea is I'm not the best at working with small electronics and soldering in tight places so I hope I don't **** it up. Kind of a pain in the ass to be deal with all this because Gloworm wouldn't make the cables 3" longer from the start.

    Now for the good news
    Because of all the work I'm been putting into this light I figured id finish a long standing project I've been putting off, and wide angle lens cover. The wide angle lens you buy for gloworm don't really get much in the way of spread and half of what you do get is sent high and low instead of left and right. Wide angle is not a flood and I want a nice bike horizontal rectangle across the trail. There's no getting around the fact that this is going to hurt the throw just like the gloworm lenses do but the idea is to at least get a moderate spread as a result.

    One idea two versions
    1. Leave the center led smooth and clear and wide angle the left and right leds. Still get some punch but mostly a shorter wider angle.

    2. Leave the left and right leds smooth and clear and only wide angle the center led. Retain most of the throw and add just a little wide angle to the mix.

    Here's a few pictures of what I've got so far and I'll be testing it over the next few weeks on trail. I don't have a meter like action-led does so I can't get any actual numbers but if they offer to test and graph it for me I'll send them a couple to test.
    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-0877e218-784c-46c8-acef-44e8e94f2afd_zpsdwotg35p.jpg
    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-959dc1a0-6b56-4df3-b9fe-9b1a45aa10a4_zpsobcagsku.jpg
    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-24ff8b63-c7ae-4ceb-9a9f-3bd5a5b458bd_zpstj6tidbh.jpg
    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-b392d150-3e3f-488d-a388-052d8c336d3f_zpsrhwlq7wv.jpg

  6. #256
    mtbr member
    Reputation: patski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    732
    Quote Originally Posted by RojoRacing53 View Post

    [snip] ...figured id finish a long standing project I've been putting off, and wide angle lens cover... [/snip]

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	24FF8B63-C7AE-4CEB-9A9F-3BD5A5B458BD_zpstj6tidbh.jpg 
Views:	161 
Size:	61.6 KB 
ID:	939043
    Dat's Friggin' Awesome! SEND BEAM SHOTS!

    ps: how did you make that?

  7. #257
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    652
    Quote Originally Posted by patski View Post
    Dat's Friggin' Awesome! SEND BEAM SHOTS!

    ps: how did you make that?
    Machined out of polycarbonate which is held to the work surface with 3m double sided tape. You can buy the polycarbonate cheap at lowes or Home Depot and machining them is easy enough but polishing them till they are clear is a PITA.

    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-cde6521b-76d4-492f-97ee-3560d6b8e410_zpsvyvlxrhz.jpg
    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-ca4e64ab-88d8-4df4-8fc5-2dd51522becb_zpsi66smtui.jpgGloworm XS are you getting one?-71afcfd9-3493-416c-971b-47388a80bec3_zpsivlx0uu6.jpg

  8. #258
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    71
    Is anyone running this lamp with a Panasonic 2-cell 3400mah battery? and if so what sort of run times are you getting on high and medium?

  9. #259
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    5,257
    @ RoJo; You might try making a lens with only the parts I show darkened with a flood to add a bit of extra beam spread. Doing it this way you will get more light to the sides and a bit more light right in front of the bike without totally killing the throw.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Gloworm XS are you getting one?-gloworm-flood-suggestion.jpg  


  10. #260
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    652
    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    @ RoJo; You might try making a lens with only the parts I show darkened with a flood to add a bit of extra beam spread. Doing it this way you will get more light to the sides and a bit more light right in front of the bike without totally killing the throw.
    Noted.

    I see the area between each optic but why the top are of the center optic?

  11. #261
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    5,257
    Quote Originally Posted by RojoRacing53 View Post
    Noted.

    I see the area between each optic but why the top are of the center optic?
    It would put a bit more light down right in front of the bike. Sort of like what Fenix did with one of their bike lights. The same theory should throw light to the right and left with the opposite LED's. I have no idea of course how it will actually look, it's just an idea. Perhaps all three LED's lenses with just the top area might work better.

  12. #262
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    652
    Just did 35 miles out in Santa Cruz on a moonless night. New lens is F***ing awesome and I managed 3:30 hrs on one 6800 battery pack and on my last descent it just flickered the on 100% setting with about 5 mins to go. If I dropped it to med at that point I'd probably have gotten 4hrs. Santa Cruz area if your not familiar with it is a bunch of tight to semi open single tracks with lots of roots and some fast sections with lots of rocks. When your steering through the tight rooty areas I'm loving the extra wide beam action since it casting shadows behind the roots through the corner instead of only the helmet light smoothing out everything.

    As someone who loved that 4 led Magicshine for its incredible flood beam for the bars I think I'm a bit more biased toward flood at the cost of throw for the bars. The X2 on your helmet has all the throw you could want anyways. I still plan on make a few other variations to test myself as well as have Jim test them on his rig.

    It's been a long time since I thought "damn I wish I had my GoPro's" on a night ride but tonight was one of those nights.

  13. #263
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    5,257
    Quote Originally Posted by RojoRacing53 View Post
    Just did 35 miles out in Santa Cruz on a moonless night. New lens is F***ing awesome and I managed 3:30 hrs on one 6800 battery pack and on my last descent it just flickered the on 100% setting with about 5 mins to go. If I dropped it to med at that point I'd probably have gotten 4hrs....
    Real glad to hear you like the new beam pattern. I'm real surprised to hear that you got 3.5 hrs on high using the 6800mAh battery! I'm assuming you didn't switch to lower modes much?? Anyway, that is freaking fantastic run time for a 4-cell battery using a lamp like the XS. ( Oh, almost forgot, is this the Hunk Lee 6800mAh Panasonic or did you buy it somewhere else?)

    Last three days where I live the winter temperatures came home to roost. I wanted to ride but really didn't feel up to braving the cold. I hate winter, especially when it comes before Thanksgiving.

  14. #264
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    652
    No I only used high in some of the areas with the most rocks or speed. Most used 20% and 60%, the light is very bright after all so there's no need to use what you don't need. This is why I *****ed about the button cable being to short for so much, I use nearly as much as some people use their shifter.

    battery is the 6800 gloworm that came with the XS. I just ordered a 13600 from Hucklee for my 24hr race and some if my more adventurous all nighter rides. Sorry you have to deal with the cold out there, over hear most trails are illegal to bikes so best time to poach is at night to minimize trail conflicts.

  15. #265
    ~ B A D A S S ~
    Reputation: car bone's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    3,170
    Hey guys. I just want to know if leaving the xs on high inside unattended can damage it?? I remember reading something about it in the manual.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  16. #266
    Action LED Lights
    Reputation: Action LED Lights's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    569
    Quote Originally Posted by car bone View Post
    Hey guys. I just want to know if leaving the xs on high inside unattended can damage it?? I remember reading something about it in the manual.
    My first question would be why would you do this?
    While the light does protects itself from overheating by throttling back, it is not generally a good idea unless the light is in front of a strong fan. (like this) (I know it's not an XS but you get the idea)

    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-light-fan.jpg

    Secondly, be sure and put some charge back on the battery as soon as possible. It's not good for it to leave it fully discharged for any length of time.
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
    www.action-led-lights.com

  17. #267
    ~ B A D A S S ~
    Reputation: car bone's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    3,170
    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    My first question would be why would you do this?
    While the light does protects itself from overheating by throttling back, it is not generally a good idea unless the light is in front of a strong fan. (like this) (I know it's not an XS but you get the idea)

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Light on fan.jpg 
Views:	79 
Size:	137.4 KB 
ID:	939469

    Secondly, be sure and put some charge back on the battery as soon as possible. It's not good for it to leave it fully discharged for any length of time.

    I don't plan on doing it but sometimes I might get distraced for a few minutes or so when the light is on full and I just wanted to know if there is a possibility of damaging it.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  18. #268
    Action LED Lights
    Reputation: Action LED Lights's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    569
    Quote Originally Posted by car bone View Post
    I don't plan on doing it but sometimes I might get distraced for a few minutes or so when the light is on full and I just wanted to know if there is a possibility of damaging it.
    Not a problem. It will cut the power back if it starts to overheat.
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
    www.action-led-lights.com

  19. #269
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Cat-man-do's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    5,257
    Quote Originally Posted by RojoRacing53 View Post
    No I only used high in some of the areas with the most rocks or speed. Most used 20% and 60%, the light is very bright after all so there's no need to use what you don't need. This is why I *****ed about the button cable being to short for so much, I use nearly as much as some people use their shifter....

    .....Sorry you have to deal with the cold out there, over hear most trails are illegal to bikes so best time to poach is at night to minimize trail conflicts.
    I hear ya. Sounds like you use the remote as much as me. I'm surprised to hear though that you don't find the remote on the new XS's long enough. I was under the impression that the newer GW lamps were long enough. I'm right with you in wanting a longer remote wire.

    Yep, some of the places I ride at night are restricted but because Chinese bike lights have become so cheap more people are riding at night and dissing the rules. Last time I went out I saw several people riding and most of those looked like they were just using standard MS or MS clones. The Park police don't want to enforce the stupid sunset rules anyway. I think they know by now that night mountain bike riding is a growing popular sport and see no cause to ruin someone else's good healthy past time.

  20. #270
    mtbr member
    Reputation: patski's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    732
    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    I hear ya. Sounds like you use the remote as much as me. I'm surprised to hear though that you don't find the remote on the new XS's long enough. I was under the impression that the newer GW lamps were long enough. I'm right with you in wanting a longer remote wire.
    Maybe the trees are closer together down in Hobbit Land. I have 740mm bars and that's about max.

    I use it all the time, does wonders for battery life. Really like the DIM setting.

  21. #271
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    652
    @Cat
    Jim saw my post about my wiring issue and is going to send me an updated longer cable that I can solder in. I'm skeptical to wether it will be long enough but no point judging it before its in my hand.

    So onto the latest lens update.

    I revised my program to ell image the need to cut over the center optic so now it can remain in it virgin clarity. I also refined my spin all speed and federate to get a better finish on the gloves but it's still requiring me to spend a couple minutes to polish them up. I think this a good final product for this double diffuser. Next I make the single diffuser as well as the semi diffuser style that Cat suggested. I'm thinking I'll also send Jim one polished and one un-polished lens of each version to see is the difference is worth the time in polishing.

    Maybe I'll ship them out by the end of this week if all goes well.

  22. #272
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    652
    forgot the new pics
    The upper one is the new one, notice the raised uncut center part.
    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-008a0b78-4757-47f4-b24b-c95b3b1c9e27_zpsg2pqczpg.jpg
    When held in hand the diffusers don't seem as clear as I'd like, I am a bit of a perfectionist after all. But when you place them over a book the lettering comes through clear so I guess that's good enough.
    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-1b7f2b87-7983-440f-ad02-942bf728e6f6_zpsu7axpzkz.jpg
    Here's one more fully assembled which can be hard to see any difference from the last version via photo.
    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-e6adf368-98fa-4809-af17-cbf222998111_zpsvcaiiz1h.jpg

  23. #273
    ww.glowormlites.co.nz
    Reputation: Gloworm Manufacture's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    360
    Quote Originally Posted by RojoRacing53 View Post
    @Cat
    Jim saw my post about my wiring issue and is going to send me an updated longer cable that I can solder in. I'm skeptical to wether it will be long enough but no point judging it before its in my hand.
    I just wanted to jump in here and clarify the topic at hand regarding the cable length.

    When the cables were initially designed the lengths were chosen to allow use on a 750mm bar (this was a good average between the super wide and more narrow 700 or less bars).

    Bar setups are a personal thing and placement of the switch is going to depend on your setup and preference. For some that run their shifter/brake hard up against the grip and more inboard setup makes sense, however those with room between grip and shifter often use this vacant space for placement.

    After feedback late last year we increased the length of the cable to a point where it can be position just inboard of the grip (130mm grip) on a 780mm bar. I use 800mm bars on my AM bike and although I could place the switch beside the grip it's a wee bit of stretch, so mine sits hard up against the inboard side of my brake lever mount

    We have also received some feedback asking why the cable could not be made and extra 5cm longer to cater for all bars and those with shorter bars can just wind the cable around the bar to suit. This is an option however then we are bound to get feedback saying the cable is too long etc etc.

    So that brings me back to the design process and the fact we cannot make a solution that fits everyone perfectly (we do try!) - just most people. There will always be aspects of a product that someone does not like and these will differ from others' opinions.

    As always we do consider all feedback and most changes we have implemented over the past 3 or so years have been as a direct result of your feedback.

    Cheers

    Bruce and Vag
    Gloworm
    Gloworm Website

    '...it's more fun with the lites on!'

  24. #274
    ww.glowormlites.co.nz
    Reputation: Gloworm Manufacture's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    360
    Quote Originally Posted by RojoRacing53 View Post
    forgot the new pics
    The upper one is the new one, notice the raised uncut center part.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	008A0B78-4757-47F4-B24B-C95B3B1C9E27_zpsg2pqczpg.jpg 
Views:	74 
Size:	68.4 KB 
ID:	939729
    When held in hand the diffusers don't seem as clear as I'd like, I am a bit of a perfectionist after all. But when you place them over a book the lettering comes through clear so I guess that's good enough.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1B7F2B87-7983-440F-AD02-942BF728E6F6_zpsu7axpzkz.jpg 
Views:	66 
Size:	143.3 KB 
ID:	939730
    Here's one more fully assembled which can be hard to see any difference from the last version via photo.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	E6ADF368-98FA-4809-AF17-CBF222998111_zpsvcaiiz1h.jpg 
Views:	181 
Size:	66.5 KB 
ID:	939731
    I'm loving the modifications you are doing here - it's quite coincidental, as Jim and I were discussing an option such as this during Interbike 2014.

    We'd love to see how this works out - even the option of the wide angle lens in the centre with 2 spots would work well in my opinion.

    Keep up the innovation!

    Bruce and Vag
    Gloworm
    Gloworm Website

    '...it's more fun with the lites on!'

  25. #275
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    1,673
    Quote Originally Posted by Gloworm Manufacture View Post
    I just wanted to jump in here and clarify the topic at hand regarding the cable length.

    When the cables were initially designed the lengths were chosen to allow use on a 750mm bar (this was a good average between the super wide and more narrow 700 or less bars).

    Bar setups are a personal thing and placement of the switch is going to depend on your setup and preference. For some that run their shifter/brake hard up against the grip and more inboard setup makes sense, however those with room between grip and shifter often use this vacant space for placement.
    I think this describes my scenario exactly. I run about 750 bars on all my trail/xc/hardtails. I run the shifters/brake clamp in board from the grip about an inch or so. The "vacant" area you describe between shifters/brake and grip would be perfect for the switch as I wouldn't have to lift my hand from the bar to reach the switch. Yet, with the length on the X2 v3.1 cable, there is NO WAY it could reach that far. As it is, at the longest possible location it's still 3 inches or so from the edge of my grip.

    Not complaining, I knew about the issue when I ordered the light, I just couldn't exercise any more patience and wanted to awesomeness of the X2 v3.1. I'd heard some talk about a possible retrofit, performed by Jim at Action? Or even available to the customer on a per-case basis. Is this a possibility? (I can live without it obviously, just checking since the subject came up)

    Thanks,
    Andy

  26. #276
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    652
    Quote Originally Posted by Gloworm Manufacture View Post
    I just wanted to jump in here and clarify the topic at hand regarding the cable length.

    When the cables were initially designed the lengths were chosen to allow use on a 750mm bar (this was a good average between the super wide and more narrow 700 or less bars).

    Bar setups are a personal thing and placement of the switch is going to depend on your setup and preference. For some that run their shifter/brake hard up against the grip and more inboard setup makes sense, however those with room between grip and shifter often use this vacant space for placement.

    After feedback late last year we increased the length of the cable to a point where it can be position just inboard of the grip (130mm grip) on a 780mm bar. I use 800mm bars on my AM bike and although I could place the switch beside the grip it's a wee bit of stretch, so mine sits hard up against the inboard side of my brake lever mount

    We have also received some feedback asking why the cable could not be made and extra 5cm longer to cater for all bars and those with shorter bars can just wind the cable around the bar to suit. This is an option however then we are bound to get feedback saying the cable is too long etc etc.

    So that brings me back to the design process and the fact we cannot make a solution that fits everyone perfectly (we do try!) - just most people. There will always be aspects of a product that someone does not like and these will differ from others' opinions.

    As always we do consider all feedback and most changes we have implemented over the past 3 or so years have been as a direct result of your feedback.

    Cheers

    Bruce and Vag
    Gloworm
    I agree with where your coming from but at least with a cable that to long the complains would be about having to wrap a cable around a bar to take up the excess which is basically a aesthetics issue. Not everyone would be happy but at least everyone could get the final placement and functionality they need. With the cable on the shorter side if will work for some people but for the others they are SOL since there's no options to make a cable longer like there is to make one shorter. By the way my bars are only 720 so I find it hard to see how it was meant to work for 750s. I think the broken wire in my Y junction I was "B****ing" about in an earlier post is from me trying to get that button as close to the grip as possible and it couldn't take the constant strain when turning left.

    I know I can come off as sounding "B****y" with only complains when your just reading my text responses but that not the case I assure you. I think for 90% of riders who by these products it's a new thing that they get into for a short while and doesn't become a very regular thing unless they are commuting in which case you kind off just set the level and forget about it. What I'm getting at is for most the night riding thing is full of compromises so you probably won't get everyone complaining about a few small issues when the whole experience is foreign anyways. Then you the 10% how live for the after hours and want their setup to be as personalized and functional as possible. I myself am I revival at weekly night rides as well as a accomplished 24hr soloist so if I see some potential in a products I want to drag it out even if it means I have to ruin a couple things along the way.

    A couple ideas while I have your ear.

    Two separate exit ports out of the light head, so one hole for each cable. This would eliminate the Y section which has always seemed like a liability for weakening wires.

    Another would be a plug in port for the remote button like this Exposure Smart Port Remote Switch | Chain Reaction Cycles that way the remote could be replaced if damaged without needing to solder anything. You could even offer two different lengths but honestly I doubt any manufacture would bother with that and I couldn't blame them as long as they chose the longer of the two

    I do enjoy your products and I'll continue to try and get my perfect setup and share my finding with everyone I can. I'm not at this to make a dollar and just want to improve my equipment and help others who share my passion. You guys are welcome to replicate any of these experiments of mine to add to your product, I don't mind in the least if it makes things better. And if you guys are ever looking for a product tester with a honest, maybe even harsh opinion just let me know

    The 24 hour wolds solo championship will be coming state side in 2015 and I can't wait to shred the night with these light.

  27. #277
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    652
    Here's another idea I came up with nearly a year ago but always forget to post a pic of. Some of us were having a hard time finding the remote button quickly enough to switch the level in the middle of a bumpy descent. Then if you could find the button you needed to press it exactly in the middle and not one of the 4 corners to activate it. For me it was mostly because I was having to reach my thumb awkwardly far to reach the button but because I that I had a great idea.

    Take some silicone and build up a little nipple on the center of the button. This way as long as to can find any part of the button chances are you'll still be pressing down the center portion when your panicking for light as your fast aproaching that surprise rock drop. I also did this to the X2 on my helmet that way I can practically palm the side of my helmet and get the button and quickly get my hand back to the bars.

    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-78a018c1-c2f4-43f4-b28f-ffb99069303f_zpsdywfjcxw.jpg

  28. #278
    Slovakia (Europe)
    Reputation: PeterG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    612
    My bars are 700mm, grips are shortened to 100mm. According to the measurements remote switch should be OK placed close to the standard unshortened 130mm grips on 760mm bars. Normaly I mount it 200mm from the bar end like on the 2nd picture.
    What makes me more angry, I found again hair crack on the remote switch! For the same reason I returned brand new X1 headlamp for replace when I bought it in April this year.
    Note: The finger in the picture just hold the cable for taking the shot, it doesn't point to anything.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Gloworm XS are you getting one?-x2-handlebar-mount_01.jpg  

    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-x2-handlebar-mount_03.jpg  

    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-x2-handlebar-mount_04.jpg  


  29. #279
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    652
    Its a cheap generic button you can get on ebay for like $4. Its one of the few way gloworm is keep the price of these lights from reaching into the $700 range. I'd be happy be happy with a $20 price increase if it got a button equal in quality to the rest of the light head. For now toss a dab of silicone on it like I pictures and dab a little on that crack and call it good. Not what you want to hear but it'll work and at night know one will see it anyways

  30. #280
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    652
    Also you can replace just the cover of the button without any re-wiring if you insist. I'm sure Jim could source you just the cover and save you the headache of sending back the whole unit.

  31. #281
    Slovakia (Europe)
    Reputation: PeterG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    612
    Is it possible to get just cover from any distributor or Gloworm directly???

  32. #282
    Action LED Lights
    Reputation: Action LED Lights's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    569
    Quote Originally Posted by PeterG View Post
    Is it possible to get just cover from any distributor or Gloworm directly???
    PeterG,

    Send me your address and I'll drop one in the mail to you.
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
    www.action-led-lights.com

  33. #283
    Slovakia (Europe)
    Reputation: PeterG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    612
    Thanks Jim, PM sent.

  34. #284
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    2
    Hope not to be hijacking this thread, but I'm looking for a new light for using during the winter.
    Currently using a Magicshine, which for the money is ok, I guess.

    I've done lots of reading and looked at all the graphs and light outputs - and it seems people have their favourites, no matter what the numbers say. It would be easier if there was just an outright obvious "best".

    Anyway, I've sort of drifted towards the Gloworm and had almost decided on the x2 v3.1 when I happened upon this XS thread.
    Anyone care to help push my decision making process one way or the other?

    As a caveat, I will be using it in extreme cold for extended periods. One of the issues we encounter is the cable from the battery packs to the headlamps getting cold and becoming brittle.
    It should also be said, it's not for biking, but for using running sled dogs. so I'm wanting a decent spread of light, but with a good reach. My lead dogs are around 70' ahead of me and I need to be able to see far enough ahead of them to give commands.
    Lupines are very popular but pretty spendy by the time you buy an extra battery pack.

  35. #285
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    652
    70' out plus at least another 30-50' farther is a bit of a stretch for most lights in my opinion. I guess it would come down to how "much" you expect to reach out there and how much detail you'll be wanting to see. If your already using a magicshine then I'll these will only be better but based on you request I'd not sure if these lights are enough. I guess you do have the benefit of the snow reflecting the light to it would seem much brighter then in our dirt forests.

    I've owned a lupine light before and as far as quality goes they are a step above everyone. Only problem is your paying double what they're worth for that extra step in quality and performance.

    I guess if your just moving along at a jogging pace you'll have plenty of time to make out the trail as you go with these lights but because of Hollywood when I envision sled dogs up to 70' out front I'm think full on "Iron Will" race pace :lol

  36. #286
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,461
    Quote Originally Posted by gealachmor View Post
    Hope not to be hijacking this thread, but I'm looking for a new light for using during the winter.
    Currently using a Magicshine, which for the money is ok, I guess.

    I've done lots of reading and looked at all the graphs and light outputs - and it seems people have their favourites, no matter what the numbers say. It would be easier if there was just an outright obvious "best".

    Anyway, I've sort of drifted towards the Gloworm and had almost decided on the x2 v3.1 when I happened upon this XS thread.
    Anyone care to help push my decision making process one way or the other?

    As a caveat, I will be using it in extreme cold for extended periods. One of the issues we encounter is the cable from the battery packs to the headlamps getting cold and becoming brittle.
    It should also be said, it's not for biking, but for using running sled dogs. so I'm wanting a decent spread of light, but with a good reach. My lead dogs are around 70' ahead of me and I need to be able to see far enough ahead of them to give commands.
    Lupines are very popular but pretty spendy by the time you buy an extra battery pack.
    I've owned many different lights over the past six years, NiteFlux, MS, Gemini, Cygolite, NR (borrowed), Lupines. By far the lupines have been the best lights in quality, features and performance. They are IMO the stand above the rest light. They are also the only company that I have seen so far that uses special (soft) cables from their lamp heads to the battery's, and extension cables. I have read posts in the past from sled dog owners using Lupines and been completely happy with them in the extreme cold. As good as they are,,, you would need to take steps to protect the battery in some way from the wind and direct cold.

    Yes, very expensive but a Wilma with two 17.5mAh will give you a ton of light, the most range in the business, and runtime. What ever you choose get the largest capacity battery you can get as the cold will reduce battery performance,, or possibly more smaller battery's so as to keep the spares on your person if possible to keep them warm.

    Maybe another option is Scars hand built lights the (Amoeba's). If you speak to him he may be able custom build you a set up with large capacity battery's possibly with lots of extra insulation for less than the Lupine Wilma set up. Tell him exactly what you need for performance and he will be strait up with you on what he can, or cannot do. Mention your concern about cabling and see if he can find what you need.

    Performance wise, the GloWorm products are one of the best for sure as there are just a ton of testimonials from happy customers and great reviews. That been said I do believe they are also using the generic cables most company's use which will be much stiffer than the Lupines. Good Luck what ever your choice.

  37. #287
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    1,038
    While the GW XS is my best light to date, the cable is stiff!! I just got the updated remote/ longer cable back from Jim great service by the way. It works much better now, my old remote was acting up in the cold now works great!!
    The Serfas TSL-2500 would be a great light , my 1500 from Serfas is my most reliable light and best made light I have. The TSL-2500 is fairly large, but for the sled application will work great.

  38. #288
    Action LED Lights
    Reputation: Action LED Lights's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    569
    gealachmor,

    I assume you'll be using this as a head lamp. I've sold to several mushers that have been happy with the X1. It has a focused beam with the super spot optic that has good reach. Over snow the rarely use more that half power. The new cables are suppose to be better (softer) so cold weather shouldn't be an issue. However other mushers have the entire light under their parka. (battery on their belt, wire running up their back to the headlight that's peaking out from under their hood) I'm not to sure about the new QR mount in extreme cold but I could include the older metal bracket and headstrap with one.
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
    www.action-led-lights.com

  39. #289
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    652
    Quote Originally Posted by dgw7000 View Post
    While the GW XS is my best light to date, the cable is stiff!! I just got the updated remote/ longer cable back from Jim great service by the way. It works much better now, my old remote was acting up in the cold now works great!!
    The Serfas TSL-2500 would be a great light , my 1500 from Serfas is my most reliable light and best made light I have. The TSL-2500 is fairly large, but for the sled application will work great.
    Did you replace the cable yourself or did you send your light back to Jim and have him do the soldering?

  40. #290
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    2
    Thanks for the replies/info.
    RojoRacing - it's not exactly fast compared to the speeds you guys are hitting, for our distance team, we're happy with 9 mph for 40 or 50 mile legs. I have logged them at 21mph when they took off after a fox.

    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    gealachmor,

    I assume you'll be using this as a head lamp. I've sold to several mushers that have been happy with the X1. It has a focused beam with the super spot optic that has good reach. Over snow the rarely use more that half power. The new cables are suppose to be better (softer) so cold weather shouldn't be an issue. However other mushers have the entire light under their parka. (battery on their belt, wire running up their back to the headlight that's peaking out from under their hood) I'm not to sure about the new QR mount in extreme cold but I could include the older metal bracket and headstrap with one.
    Actually the plan with this new purchase is to use it attached to the handlebar of the sled, so it's always pointed straight ahead.
    The battery would be in the sled bag, that way I can insulate it and maybe even have a couple of those chemical "hot hand" pads in beside it.
    Agreed, most of us wear our headlamps as you describe, with the battery pack somewhere inside our clothing.

    I'll drop you an email with a couple further questions, if that's ok

  41. #291
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    1,038
    I sent it in to Jim, I did not know if it was the light or the remote causing the problem. Quick turn-o-round time few days, the length is perfect now also for my 740 mm bars. Having someone like Jim that stands behind what he sells is another reason I buy Gloworm.

  42. #292
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    652
    Quote Originally Posted by dgw7000 View Post
    I sent it in to Jim, I did not know if it was the light or the remote causing the problem. Quick turn-o-round time few days, the length is perfect now also for my 740 mm bars. Having someone like Jim that stands behind what he sells is another reason I buy Gloworm.
    Thanks for the reply. I'd assume if Jim is the soldering master then his skills far outweigh mine in that department. Maybe when I send him all these lenses to test he could find a moment to attach my new cable.

  43. #293
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    652
    The mass production has begun, I should get 21 lenses out of this one sheet.

  44. #294
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    1,038
    I would love to have one!! Are you selling them?

  45. #295
    Action LED Lights
    Reputation: Action LED Lights's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    569
    Are you charging about $1/hr for your machine time.
    I'm working on Gloworm to get a better wide angle lens in production (with a mold)
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
    www.action-led-lights.com

  46. #296
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    652
    Not selling these as of now but I'll consider it once testing is done. I'm making 6 different models so we can find a most preferred lens that everyone wants. I figure we'll nail it down to 2 options.

    Option 1 lots of spread with decent throw

    Option 2 a little extra spread while retaining as much throw as possible.

    Honestly in hoping Jim will relay the results to Gloworm and have them sell the lenses because they can can do it for pennies compared to me. I'm sure it'll take time so if anyone wants one sooner keep an eye on this thread for developments.

  47. #297
    ~ B A D A S S ~
    Reputation: car bone's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    3,170
    I have a question for you jim.

    I recently bought a olympia lighthead and an xs complete pack and another 6800 gloworm battery to use with the gemini. And so far one battery pack seems to indicate the wrong amount of juice left in the pack, or maybe its a bad pack.

    what happens is this: on pack goes to red much faster than it should when using the lights. Today for example I was using the olympia and the xs both at 50% but the olympia pack indicated red and the xs was one step above it (green) even though it draws supposedly 50% more juice at that setting. But when i put the gloworm chargers in, the one that indicated red early on (even though it shouldn't have since the lighthead used less amps (gemini)) started indicating one green blob higher than the other one, so that seems about right.

    Also the 2 battery packs seems to have different blinking patterns when fully charged.

    Should I be worried? is this common?

    I'm gonna test these 2 packs for real runtime this weekend.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  48. #298
    ~ B A D A S S ~
    Reputation: car bone's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    3,170
    Quote Originally Posted by RojoRacing53 View Post
    The mass production has begun, I should get 21 lenses out of this one sheet.
    I would feed about 10-20 times faster and put the rpm on max, or 10-20k or so if possible, full blast on the cooling/cutting fluid. And use a 2 bladed tool, as short as possible. When feeding slow with plastics they simply melt. Its very high speed high rpm material type imo.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  49. #299
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    652
    That's all fine but my machine only goes to 2k RPMs so I'm rather limited on what I can do. It my be a CNC machine but its a conversational programmer(not G code) so I had to do all the programming on the machine pad and calculations in my head. We're not in business for mass production so I just use these machines for projects when they are needed. All the money in our shop comes from the sheet metal parts we break and form on roll forming mills.

  50. #300
    ~ B A D A S S ~
    Reputation: car bone's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    3,170
    Quote Originally Posted by RojoRacing53 View Post
    That's all fine but my machine only goes to 2k RPMs so I'm rather limited on what I can do. It my be a CNC machine but its a conversational programmer(not G code) so I had to do all the programming on the machine pad and calculations in my head. We're not in business for mass production so I just use these machines for projects when they are needed. All the money in our shop comes from the sheet metal parts we break and form on roll forming mills.
    You can still probably put it on 2k and then max feed, whatever it might be, and it will look just as good. use cooling.

    I used to put 20 kilowatts of spindle power into good steel, and we could feed at least 5 times as fast as that at maximum cutting depth without anything (expensive that is) breaking.

    I hate fanuc, iso, and g codes. The last machine was a heidenhein 6 axis (4 integrated) and we programmed everything in the machine, I love these programming systems. no need for computers anymore.

    any way good work! i hope you can make a few good alternative front lenses for the xs. since the supplied flood ones kinda suck.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

Page 6 of 11 FirstFirst ... 2345678910 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Gloworm X2 v3 ( XM-L2) Who's In?
    By Cat-man-do in forum Lights and Night Riding
    Replies: 202
    Last Post: 02-05-2015, 09:44 AM
  2. Gloworm X1 clones
    By zuuds in forum Lights and Night Riding
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 12-17-2013, 03:30 PM
  3. Gloworm X1, X2 & XS. Which combination to use?
    By jbn_designs in forum Lights and Night Riding
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 10-28-2013, 10:51 AM
  4. Magicshine battery w/ gloworm x1?
    By BmoreKen in forum Lights and Night Riding
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 09-17-2013, 02:47 PM
  5. Gemini Duo vs. Gloworm X2
    By Sevenz in forum Lights and Night Riding
    Replies: 56
    Last Post: 12-29-2012, 08:36 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •