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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    The ones we can easily get are in the 5000K range. That's at the high end of what they call neutral white. ....
    Zebralight use 4400K and I love it. I'm interesting in LED board only, not labour (professional soldering and desoldering Hakko equipment at work and Weller on hand at home too).

  2. #402
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    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    I've been talking over the neutral white idea with GW and it looks light I can get some led boards made up with neutral led's (5000K) and swap them out as an upgrade to new lights or your existing one. I'm waiting on a price but maybe somewhere in the ballpark of $25 (parts and labor). Is that something any of you would go for? If the demand is high enough I could order stock made up that way and there would be little or no extra charge.
    Yes, by all means! This would be fantastic. Here's the issue though: I'd like to be able to up-grade one of my older X2 ( v2 )'s with an XM-L2 NW. The 5000K range would be fine for me but there are going to be people who want something a little warmer (4500K ). Would be nice if they could be accommodated as well. Most will want 5000K though, at least that's my opinion.

    Anyway, I hope this all applies to whatever GW lamp you happen to own. I have no problem paying the shipping and/or labor fee to make the switch. If I get a NW gloworm lamp on the bars I'm back to using GW as my primary bar lamp. ...And , if I decide to switch back to Cool white I have my X2 (v3 ) waiting in the wings.

  3. #403
    Action LED Lights
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    I'll shoot for group 3C which is 4750K - 5000K.
    Yes, if you have an older XM-L light you would get an upgrade in performance at the same time.
    Swaps for the X2 and XS would be easy but the X1 has the led directly on the driver board. We'd have to swap the whole thing so it would at least be more expensive.
    This whole endeavor has yet to be approved by Gloworm so updates to come.
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
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  4. #404
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    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    I'll shoot for group 3C which is 4750K - 5000K.
    Yes, if you have an older XM-L light you would get an upgrade in performance at the same time.
    Swaps for the X2 and XS would be easy but the X1 has the led directly on the driver board. We'd have to swap the whole thing so it would at least be more expensive.
    This whole endeavor has yet to be approved by Gloworm so updates to come.
    If you get a "thumbs-up" for the NW then by all means be sure to start a new thread on it so we can get the word out to anyone who is interested.

  5. #405
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    Ok im pretty much decided on getting one of these to replace my olympia as a main bar light. Will they be coming in NW in the next week or two? Was going to order but not sure if I should hold out

  6. #406
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    Quote Originally Posted by manbeer View Post
    Ok im pretty much decided on getting one of these to replace my olympia as a main bar light. Will they be coming in NW in the next week or two? Was going to order but not sure if I should hold out
    It's been a good number of weeks since talk of a Gloworm with neutral LED's. Not sure if they intend to supply a neutral LED version(s).

  7. #407
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    It's been a good number of weeks since talk of a Gloworm with neutral LED's. Not sure if they intend to supply a neutral LED version(s).
    Yeah, I suppose it is not the end of the world as I will need to send in my x2 for the swap if the parts become available anyway. I'm really looking forward to a pair of NW gloworms

  8. #408
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    Fear not. Neutral LED's have just arrived. Just for the X2 and XS at this point. I will need $25 to change over a light be that a new one or used. I'll get an item on the website hopefully tonight but if your wanting to place an order now email me and we'll make it happen.
    (They come from group 3C)
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
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  9. #409
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    Ok so I'm assuming that there will be an option to upgrade the xs when I go to order on the site? I will need to send in the x2 I have as well so I guess it would make sense to do the pair at once? Either way was wondering if we keep the old emitters or if they stay w you guys as part of the deal...if we can keep the old ones I may have a project for them. I am probably getting the XS as a gift so I I have to try to figure out how to integrate everything

  10. #410
    Action LED Lights
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    I tossed up a quick page for the upgrade. I'll add it to the individual light later but for now you can add this to your cart
    Action-LED-Lights ? Change X2 or XS from Cool White to Neutral White LED's
    If you send your older light in and wait to order your new light until I have it there will be no return shipping. For an older light I will return your used LED if you want but for new light upgrades the price assumes we keep the them.
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
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  11. #411
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    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    I tossed up a quick page for the upgrade. I'll add it to the individual light later but for now you can add this to your cart
    Action-LED-Lights ? Change X2 or XS from Cool White to Neutral White LED's
    If you send your older light in and wait to order your new light until I have it there will be no return shipping. For an older light I will return your used LED if you want but for new light upgrades the price assumes we keep the them.
    Once again Jim you come through with the goods. We are not worthy.

    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-f2ohx1qh1lwpjly.large.jpg

  12. #412
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    I must say Jim has been great to work with regarding this initiative. Lets see what type of feedback we get from the NW versions....its going to be interesting.

    Cheers for the ongoing support, Jim.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Once again Jim you come through with the goods. We are not worthy.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  13. #413
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    Realized that the link wasn't working due to my phone pushing through to mobile site. All good now

    Forwarding to the family as I guess this is my birthday present

    Thanks again

  14. #414
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    Well I think she ordered xs in neutral for my bday, hopefully the order was placed properly. Very excited! Will be sending in my x2 some time next week

    Am I going to be the first one with this setup?

  15. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by manbeer View Post
    Well I think she ordered xs in neutral for my bday, hopefully the order was placed properly. Very excited! Will be sending in my x2 some time next week

    Am I going to be the first one with this setup?
    Likely but I won't be too far behind. I have to dig out my old X2(v2) and then pack it up for shipping.

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by manbeer View Post
    Well I think she ordered xs in neutral for my bday, hopefully the order was placed properly. Very excited! Will be sending in my x2 some time next week ... Am I going to be the first one with this setup?
    And we can't wait for the report!!!

  17. #417
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    My NW gloworm XS came today (actually yesterday) and I had just a few minutes to play around with it but wow. All I can say is that nobody will ever need more light than this can offer. If you do, your crazy. This thing floods, it throws, it does it all. It's just a ton of light. For background, i have many lights and my typical setup up until now was a Gemini Olympia and X2 on the helmet. NW tint is pleasing to the eyes. Depth perception is good. Everything seems more three dimensional.

    I don't really see how it could get any better than this. The light isn't cheap but it's just perfect. Makes me not want to even bother messing with all my chinese clones

    Also, Jim at Action LED is top notch. Shipping was so fast it was almost telepathic

  18. #418
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    Quote Originally Posted by manbeer View Post
    My NW gloworm XS came today (actually yesterday) and I had just a few minutes to play around with it but wow. All I can say is that nobody will ever need more light than this can offer. If you do, your crazy. This thing floods, it throws, it does it all. It's just a ton of light. For background, i have many lights and my typical setup up until now was a Gemini Olympia and X2 on the helmet. NW tint is pleasing to the eyes. Depth perception is good. Everything seems more three dimensional.

    I don't really see how it could get any better than this. The light isn't cheap but it's just perfect. Makes me not want to even bother messing with all my chinese clones

    Also, Jim at Action LED is top notch. Shipping was so fast it was almost telepathic
    I look at it this way; the cheap Chinese clones are for having fun, basically a fun hobby. On the other hand if you want the best you are going to run at least one very good "Brand Name" lamp like the Gloworms. I can't wait to see what a neutral version Gloworm is going to look like. Damn, somewhere I misplaced my packing tape or I'd have mine in the mail by now.
    Last edited by Cat-man-do; 04-20-2015 at 12:25 PM.

  19. #419
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    I know, I really need to ship out my x2 for the retrofit. I currently have no NW helmet light to pair it with and think conflicting tints will be an annoyance. For the time being I may just throw my BT40S on the bars and slap the xs on the helmet. I've been working on my new store for months and finally am just about done. Building inspection is Wednesday and if we pass my first ride of the season will be my reward. I promised myself that until it was complete I wouldn't ride and it would give me the motivation to get things done!

  20. #420
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    Ok so I blasted out for a quick night ride tonight. First of the season. Bike wasn't really set up and I realized I forgot my pump and was in an area with a lot of thorns so it was cut short. This light is phenomenal. It just has so much of everything. Flood, throw, you name it. The neutral white was nice, very easy on the eyes and not harsh. That being said it will take some getting used to since I am so used to cool white. This thing is really impressive no matter the tint though. Just so much light. The helmet mount still drives me bonkers I realized. On my x2 I had it hot glued on. This just won't find its way onto either helmet I have. I do love how low it sits but I spent an hour trying every arrangement of velcro, zip ties and duct tape to get it to stay still. All in all I can't imagine a better performing light though. It really exceeds my expectations. The difference between it and my olympia and X2 is HUGE! I can't imagine a better light for the money.

  21. #421
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    I did my first night ride of the season also, couldn't pass up the opportunity to go for a ride as it was 22c (71.6f) - which is unseasonably warm for the time of year here in New Zealand.

    I came across a possum in the middle of the track, that was just standing up like a meerkat (steering at me for like a minute). I think my X2/XS combo had him thinking I was the sun or something and he didn't know what to do

    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-possum-photolaps.jpg
    Note: Not actual possum (for illustrative purposes only).

  22. #422
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    Just me or is anyone having problems with email to Gloworm?

    Delivery has failed to these recipients or groups:

    #####@glowormlites.co.nz

    The email address wasn't found at the destination domain. It might be misspelled or it might not exist any longer. Try retyping the address and resending the message.

    Have just PM GW on here but incase don't see PM.

    Thanks

  23. #423
    Action LED Lights
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smoke&Lasers View Post
    Just me or is anyone having problems with email to Gloworm?

    Delivery has failed to these recipients or groups:

    #####@glowormlites.co.nz

    The email address wasn't found at the destination domain. It might be misspelled or it might not exist any longer. Try retyping the address and resending the message.

    Have just PM GW on here but incase don't see PM.

    Thanks
    Gloworm NZ had to change some of there email addresses since they were getting spammed to death.
    There should be a contact form showing up on that website soon. Anything I can help you with?
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
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  24. #424
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    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    Gloworm NZ had to change some of there email addresses since they were getting spammed to death.
    There should be a contact form showing up on that website soon. Anything I can help you with?
    Hey All - Jim is correct, we had to change up our emails due to a dodgy email host!

    our new email address is support@glowormlites.co.nz

    Cheers!

    Bruce and Vag
    Gloworm Lights - 'Create Your Escape'
    High End LED Light Designer - New Zealand

  25. #425
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    I resent email many thanks both.

    Edit: Buy Gloworm outstanding support

  26. #426
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    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    I tossed up a quick page for the upgrade. I'll add it to the individual light later but for now you can add this to your cart
    Action-LED-Lights ? Change X2 or XS from Cool White to Neutral White LED's
    If you send your older light in and wait to order your new light until I have it there will be no return shipping. For an older light I will return your used LED if you want but for new light upgrades the price assumes we keep the them.

    I'm down for an X1 conversion if you ever get that underway. Would be very sweet to upgrade my ver 1.

    Others interested in this, please post here.

  27. #427
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    For the X1 the led is on the driver board so we can't just swap out the led's.
    However I just bought a rework solder station that can solder/resolder surface mount components so maybe I'll experiment with some warranty lights and see if I can easily switch the led itself.
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
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  28. #428
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    Jim, I just looked at the page you put up for switching LED's. Are the LED's being switched going to be XM-L2 T6 with "4C" tint?

  29. #429
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    Cat, I'm pretty sure they are 3c from one of his previous comments but hopefully Jim will chime in

  30. #430
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    Yes, sorry for the delay. I was waiting for Monday morning at Gloworm Central. They are indeed 3C.
    Jim Harger
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  31. #431
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    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    Yes, sorry for the delay. I was waiting for Monday morning at Gloworm Central. They are indeed 3C.
    Ahh shoot! I hate to ask this but is there a plan to offer the 4C tint ( XM-L2 ) at a later date? I know these are kind of hard to get right now, at least from some of the sources I've looked at. That might be due to the fact that many people are looking for the 4C tint right now.

  32. #432
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    I could ask for 4C with the next batch but it might be awhile. 4500K vs 5000K
    Jim Harger
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  33. #433
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    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    I could ask for 4C with the next batch but it might be awhile. 4500K vs 5000K
    If it takes some time that's okay. Just let us know when ( or if ) the 4C's become available. I think a lot of people will like the slightly warmer tint if they are planning to use for the bars.

  34. #434
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    It might not take too long. Going through them fairly quickly. But the difference between the 3C and 4C would be hard to detect.
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
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  35. #435
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    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    For the X1 the led is on the driver board so we can't just swap out the led's.
    However I just bought a rework solder station that can solder/resolder surface mount components so maybe I'll experiment with some warranty lights and see if I can easily switch the led itself.

    Thanks, I'll hang tight for now.

  36. #436
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    First neutral white X1 lamp?

    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    For the X1 the led is on the driver board so we can't just swap out the led's.
    However I just bought a rework solder station that can solder/resolder surface mount components so maybe I'll experiment with some warranty lights and see if I can easily switch the led itself.
    No continuation on that topic so far? So this is the most likely first X1 lamp with 3C neutral white LED .
    However I do not recommend to do it unless you are a skilled professional with a lot of experience in repairing of PCBs because there is a big risk to damage the board, so please do not ask me, how to do it, the professionals should know that .
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Gloworm XS are you getting one?-x1-desoldering_05.jpg  

    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-x1-neutral-white_01.jpg  

    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-x1-neutral-white_02.jpg  


  37. #437
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    So with these lights is the battery just a normal 2 pin, positive and negative?

    Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

  38. #438
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    Quote Originally Posted by thx138 View Post
    So with these lights is the battery just a normal 2 pin, positive and negative?

    Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
    The plug is a bipolar coaxial that is 2.1mm x 5.5mm, center pin positive. 8.4V Li-ion.
    Hopefully that's the information you were looking for.
    Jim Harger
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  39. #439
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    I've mastered this SM rework and can now offer the X1 conversion. Gloworm supplied me with a few spare X1 boards just in case but so far I'm batting 100.
    I'll be getting some NW X1's from the factory soon.
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
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  40. #440
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    Yes it is. I wanted to be able to use battery packs I already own and not have to deal with "smart battery" issues like with my current light.

    Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

  41. #441
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    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    I've mastered this SM rework and can now offer the X1 conversion...

  42. #442
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    First ride with an XS last night!

    Thoughts from a first time owner:
    * The warmer color light option is quite nice. I've never liked the blue/harsh color of most LEDs.
    * 35mm bar clamp is excellent. Why don't other light manufacturers realize there are 35mm bars?
    * It took me an hour to figure out how to work the light. And that's with two degrees in computer science and repeated re-reading of the instructions. I still haven't got the timing of a double click down.
    * The included zip-ties broke when trying to secure the remote mount. Even before I tried to tighten them, the latch tab would snap off. A couple zip ties just broke in half. Yes, every single one of the zip ties broke. All of them! Everyone was standing around laughing in the parking lot as each one failed one after another.
    * Zip ties from a friend's trunk were used to secure the remote mount. And yet it still didn't stay put and was largely unusable. I'll have to add double sided tape under the mount to prevent it from rotating.
    * The remote cable is not long enough. I still have to take my hand off of the grip to push the button.
    * The button click/press/hold/double-click interface is aggravatingly unreliable with gloves. Hopefully it is less of an issue when I have more experience in using the light.
    * The gopro mount was problematic. Once inserted into gopro bracket on a smith optics helmet, it couldn't be slid out. It ripped the gopro bracket off of the helmet. I eventually pried it out with two flat screwdrivers and then fixed the helmet with a washer on the mounting bolt and new double sided tape. The glowworm gopro mount will be sanded down so that it can slide in and out of the brackets on my various helmets.


    In summary, the remote button is what really defines the experience of using this light. I think some people will love it and some people will hate it. So far i'm leaning toward the hate it side. It's possible to build light controls that are intuitive for first time users, are reliable when used in a hurry or with gloves, and also provide sophisticated functionality.

    This doesn't mean i hate the light as a whole, just that the single button on the end of a not quite long enough cable is not the best light control interface I've experienced. I'd prefer a second button for programming and switching between normal and commuting modes. That would make the primary button less error prone. Certainly that would make the light more expensive though. No way to please everyone.

    With that said, wow! The build quality is impeccable!

  43. #443
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    In real life (during rides) I've found double click to enter the programming mode as not a good idea. It has happened to me quite freqently to get into programming mode rather then switch the brightness level. As a former sw/fw programmer I would suggest to enable enter into the programming mode only immediately after battery is connecting (hold the button pressed while battery is connected), but not later, to prevent accidental access on double click (btw, before Gloworm released v2, I sent to Bruce some user interface thoughts/algorithm where access to the programming mode was suggested in this way). Otherwise very good light, especially in neutral white colour. Just my 2 cents...

  44. #444
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    First ride with an XS last night!
    Thoughts from a first time owner:
    !
    My thoughts/experiences about the remote/UI pretty much match what PeterG said (so no need to express the same thing in different words).
    More ride time definitely has help me with getting used to the button (I've found a tap on the button works better than a press). I did want to share my solution to mounting the remote. Easy mounting and a more solid mount for more reliable mode changes.

    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-006-2-.jpg


    It's just a 808 style light-head mount. Action-LED-Lights used to modify the remote wires for additional length but I would just wait for the promised retrofitable wireless remote that should be available by the end of this coming summer. Enjoy your light!
    Mole

  45. #445
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    That looks like a good solution! I have 4 bikes that I ride fairly frequently. An o-ring based mount like that could move between bikes easily. Also, it wouldn't require leaving extra stuff on the bars for daytime rides.

    But wireless remote! Don't taunt me like that. Know any details?

  46. #446
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    Hey Guys

    Just woke up in NZ and saw this and thought 'Great Feedback'!

    dfiler - thanks for the heads up on the cable ties and your experiences with the light. This stuff really helps us keep on top of our game. Regards the remote mount - there should have been a flat black rubber shim in your kit that is meant to be used under the plastic mount - see if you can find this and give it a go. In testing there was no sliding and if you don't have one, we'll send one out!

    Also, can you please do us a favour and measure the length of your cable from housing to the end of the switch. Just for interests sake?

    PeterG - if you could resend those suggestions for UI, it would be great. bruce.davey@glowormlites.co.nz

    Cheers and keep up the commentary - its awesome!

    B
    Gloworm Lights - 'Create Your Escape'
    High End LED Light Designer - New Zealand

  47. #447
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gloworm Manufacture View Post
    Hey Guys

    Just woke up in NZ and saw this and thought 'Great Feedback'!

    dfiler - thanks for the heads up on the cable ties and your experiences with the light. This stuff really helps us keep on top of our game. Regards the remote mount - there should have been a flat black rubber shim in your kit that is meant to be used under the plastic mount - see if you can find this and give it a go. In testing there was no sliding and if you don't have one, we'll send one out!

    Also, can you please do us a favour and measure the length of your cable from housing to the end of the switch. Just for interests sake?

    PeterG - if you could resend those suggestions for UI, it would be great. bruce.davey@glowormlites.co.nz

    Cheers and keep up the commentary - its awesome!

    B
    Thanks for the great products! I love seeing direct response from a manufacturer dealing with issues people are having. I very much appreciate the passion you have for the products you produce and your desire to continually make them better. dfiler had asked me about any information I had on the up coming wireless remote and I was wondering if you could give us an update rather than refer him back to old posts with outdated information.
    Mole

  48. #448
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    First ride with an XS last night!

    Thoughts from a first time owner:
    * The warmer color light option is quite nice. I've never liked the blue/harsh color of most LEDs.
    * 35mm bar clamp is excellent. Why don't other light manufacturers realize there are 35mm bars?
    * It took me an hour to figure out how to work the light. And that's with two degrees in computer science and repeated re-reading of the instructions. I still haven't got the timing of a double click down.
    * The included zip-ties broke when trying to secure the remote mount. Even before I tried to tighten them, the latch tab would snap off. A couple zip ties just broke in half. Yes, every single one of the zip ties broke. All of them! Everyone was standing around laughing in the parking lot as each one failed one after another.
    * Zip ties from a friend's trunk were used to secure the remote mount. And yet it still didn't stay put and was largely unusable. I'll have to add double sided tape under the mount to prevent it from rotating.
    * The remote cable is not long enough. I still have to take my hand off of the grip to push the button.
    * The button click/press/hold/double-click interface is aggravatingly unreliable with gloves. Hopefully it is less of an issue when I have more experience in using the light.
    * The gopro mount was problematic. Once inserted into gopro bracket on a smith optics helmet, it couldn't be slid out. It ripped the gopro bracket off of the helmet. I eventually pried it out with two flat screwdrivers and then fixed the helmet with a washer on the mounting bolt and new double sided tape. The glowworm gopro mount will be sanded down so that it can slide in and out of the brackets on my various helmets.


    In summary, the remote button is what really defines the experience of using this light. I think some people will love it and some people will hate it. So far i'm leaning toward the hate it side. It's possible to build light controls that are intuitive for first time users, are reliable when used in a hurry or with gloves, and also provide sophisticated functionality.

    This doesn't mean i hate the light as a whole, just that the single button on the end of a not quite long enough cable is not the best light control interface I've experienced. I'd prefer a second button for programming and switching between normal and commuting modes. That would make the primary button less error prone. Certainly that would make the light more expensive though. No way to please everyone.

    With that said, wow! The build quality is impeccable!
    Itell u what. The remote switch sucks ass. they could just as well have put it (the switch) on the light imo.

    also for zip ties there is only like one good brand. and its the non click click click sh1t tywrap. then its a metal thing on a continous surface. Its the best.

    i would prefer programming the light by connectiing it to a computer by usb then you can adjust the levels and stages and all that shit. and lock it down. Then in use its only your 1, 2 or 3 chosen levels. ONLY! no matter if you double click its only these 3 and nothing else.

    Lets be serious. You have an inteface thats so complicated half of the users dont know jack. then you can just as well make the only user interface through a computer. and then its all graphical for the senior citizens and all that sh1t. and maybe number for the rest of us.

    But then after that "programing" its done. no reach to that menu after that in use.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

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  49. #449
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    * The included zip-ties broke when trying to secure the remote mount. Even before I tried to tighten them, the latch tab would snap off. A couple zip ties just broke in half. Yes, every single one of the zip ties broke. All of them! Everyone was standing around laughing in the parking lot as each one failed one after another.
    * Zip ties from a friend's trunk were used to secure the remote mount. And yet it still didn't stay put and was largely unusable. I'll have to add double sided tape under the mount to prevent it from rotating...
    It was already posted: my solution is similar like mrmole's one, made of ring bell base before gloworm started to supply remote control handlebar mount. Simple, easy to use and holds very well.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Gloworm XS are you getting one?-remote-control-handlebar-mount_06.jpg  

    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-remote-control-handlebar-mount_04.jpg  

    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-remote-control-handlebar-mount_03.jpg  

    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-remote-control-handlebar-mount_02.jpg  


  50. #450
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gloworm Manufacture View Post
    ...
    PeterG - if you could resend those suggestions for UI, it would be great. bruce.davey@glowormlites.co.nz ...
    I'll put some thoughts on e-mail in next days and send to Bruce.

  51. #451
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    .....Why don't other light manufacturers realize there are 35mm bars?
    Cause they want to leave a bit of business to me? I have mounting solutions for many lights on 22.2, 25.4, 31.8, and 35mm bars.


    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    ......The gopro mount was problematic. Once inserted into gopro bracket on a smith optics helmet, it couldn't be slid out. It ripped the gopro bracket off of the helmet. I eventually pried it out with two flat screwdrivers and then fixed the helmet with a washer on the mounting bolt and new double sided tape. The glowworm gopro mount will be sanded down so that it can slide in and out of the brackets on my various helmets.
    Before you sand the Gloworm mount, check how it fits on any your other GoPro mounts you have. Preferably genuine GoPro mounts. In the past 2.5 years of making GoPro adapters for bike lights, I've seen some really poorly manufactured or wildly out of tolerance 3rd party mounts. Have you mounted a GoPro camera on that same helmet with good result?
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  52. #452
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    You should also try spraying the parts with some silicone spray. I find that makes a lot of difference.

    I agree that the programing could use some improvement. You'll find you need a 1 second pause between button pushes to avoid entering programing.
    For my own use I have replaced the velcro with Scotch Fastener. It holds much better.
    Last edited by Action LED Lights; 03-05-2016 at 10:26 AM.
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  53. #453
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    Quote Originally Posted by car bone View Post
    Itell u what. The remote switch sucks ass. they could just as well have put it (the switch) on the light imo.

    also for zip ties there is only like one good brand. and its the non click click click sh1t tywrap. then its a metal thing on a continous surface. Its the best.

    i would prefer programming the light by connectiing it to a computer by usb then you can adjust the levels and stages and all that shit. and lock it down. Then in use its only your 1, 2 or 3 chosen levels. ONLY! no matter if you double click its only these 3 and nothing else.

    Lets be serious. You have an inteface thats so complicated half of the users dont know jack. then you can just as well make the only user interface through a computer. and then its all graphical for the senior citizens and all that sh1t. and maybe number for the rest of us.

    But then after that "programing" its done. no reach to that menu after that in use.
    While his post was not particularly respectfully worded, I actually agree with car bone.

    I'd prefer the button be on the light itself. Having the extra cable and mount provides me no benefit but adds clutter and annoyance. I have to have a mount on all my bikes, it sometimes pops off when I'm riding and starts flapping around, etc.

    But since the the switch is near my thumb I've been tempted to try to use it while riding, and on multiple occasions ended up with the light in programming mode and was like WTF. I use lights most in with winter, it's cold and I'm wearing gloves, make it foolproof to use.

    Fantastic lights, but I wish there were a KISS version. (keep it simple stupid)

  54. #454
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    I've been tempted to order the xs lighthead, after buying an x2 refurb. These are the reasons I'm looking at other lights. I really am impressed with the actual output of my x2, I just can't come to grips with certain operational aspects of the light. Programming, the remote, no actual switch on the lighthead itself. But damn good light beam and love the nw tint on my x2. Can't wait to play with optics, and learn how to stay out of the program mode!

  55. #455
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    Quote Originally Posted by matto6 View Post
    ...
    I'd prefer the button be on the light itself. Having the extra cable and mount provides me no benefit but adds clutter and annoyance. I have to have a mount on all my bikes, it sometimes pops off when I'm riding and starts flapping around, etc. ...
    I'm the opposite meaning, I think the remote control is great advantage over competitors and very handy. It's much easier to access remote button on the handlebars than button on the lighthead. I can't imagine to grope for the lighthead button if the light is on the helmet, I mount the remote button close to the edge of the shield, so it's easily accessible. If the remote button pops off, replace velcro with Scotch Dual-Lock like on my picture few posts above.

    The light is almost perfect, I would like to see only the change in the access to programming mode and battery powered RF (Bluetooth?) remote button, which could control both helmet and handlebar lights simultaneously (or inependently with 2 buttons). Once the light has BT, PC programming would be possible too (hence easier) - killing two birds with one stone .
    Last edited by PeterG; 03-08-2016 at 02:19 AM.

  56. #456
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    checking these out now

  57. #457
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    Quote Originally Posted by car bone View Post
    Itell u what. The remote switch sucks ass. they could just as well have put it (the switch) on the light imo.
    The remote switch is the best, it's my 2nd season(purchased Sept 2014) with an XS/X2 Combo and it would be hard to live without the switch. I used sticky backed velcro tape for the backing.

    Love the NW tint, seems I'm riding one brightness level down with it. BTW, no one ever mentions the 36hr 200 lumen mode, great for trail side repairs.

    Twice in the first 5 rides or so I got into programming mode, not once since then and my switch has taken a beating(see photo).

    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-edk8fkl.jpg

    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-i8uoeqe.jpg

  58. #458
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    Why are people switching brightness so much while riding?

    Of all the possible things I could be focusing my attention (and hands) on while riding, adjusting my light brightness has never been one of them.

    What problem does this solve that I don't seem to have? (yet? Hahaha)

  59. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by matto6 View Post
    Why are people switching brightness so much while riding?
    With the Gloworm combo you usually overpower the lights of the guy ahead of you, esp in tight twisty single track all they can see is their shadow so you need to tone it down. Then when turns downhill you crank it back up.

    Many of our rides are 3-4 hours, all with lights on, so I try to nurse the battery in case of "issues" like the 7 mile ride/walk back to the trailhead with a broken CB.

    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-qm6fdbw.jpg

  60. #460
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    Nice photo!

  61. #461
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    Quote Originally Posted by matto6 View Post
    Why are people switching brightness so much while riding?

    Of all the possible things I could be focusing my attention (and hands) on while riding, adjusting my light brightness has never been one of them.

    What problem does this solve that I don't seem to have? (yet? Hahaha)
    I don't switch lots and only have 2 levels set, but a remote that works well is great. Slow techy stuff or climbs you don't need the light blazing. Too much light close in just deteriorates your night vision. Get on a fast bit when you're going to be looking further out and then crank it up. Just like changing gears, using a remote takes no attention and no additional hand movement/placement. Just raise your thumb up a bit and push. My first LED light did not have a remote and it was OK but I far prefer my later lights with remotes
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  62. #462
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    Quote Originally Posted by matto6 View Post
    Why are people switching brightness so much while riding?
    Edit: Ooops, i see others already answered this question. Didn't mean to dog pile on.

    Of all the possible things I could be focusing my attention (and hands) on while riding, adjusting my light brightness has never been one of them.

    What problem does this solve that I don't seem to have? (yet? Hahaha)
    You must not be riding long enough to run out of battery. Many people I ride with will turn their lights down when climbing. That prolongs battery life. Otherwise the battery won't last the whole ride.

    We only have a few hundred feet of elevation to work with and trails can climb for a few minutes then descend for a few minutes. When familiar with the trail it is easy to do fast descents at full power and climbs at minimal power.

  63. #463
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    Quote Originally Posted by patski View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Hmmm, your wire is long enough to actually put the remote next to the grip.

    How wide are your bars? Either those are shorter than they look or my remote cord is shorter than yours. My bars are 760mm and the remote cable doesn't reach.

  64. #464
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    These are 730mm, pretty sure my old bars were 760mm and the remote fit.

    They def need to make the remote cable longer tho....

    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    Hmmm, your wire is long enough to actually put the remote next to the grip. How wide are your bars? Either those are shorter than they look or my remote cord is shorter than yours. My bars are 760mm and the remote cable doesn't reach.

  65. #465
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    For riding with thick winter gloves, if you have brake levers mounted right next to the grip, place the switch on the brake housing close to the lever pivot. Sliding your index finger inwards along the brake lever will locate the switch quickly, and you do not have to alter your grip on the bar to find or depress the switch.

    I wear up to three glove layers, Don't have any issues changing output or modes, on or off trail, sitting or standing.

    I like the separate switch even better for helmet use. It's mounted at the bottom of the helmet, just past and above my right eye. Easier to reach, no chance of changing the angle of the light, and I don't accidentally shift the helmet.
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  66. #466
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    these little remote buttons and gloves are why i use pogies. wear my fall gloves all winter, switch inside like everything else. Not always an option for some but I cant stand thick gloves.

    I can agree the remote wires need to be a tad longer. My X2 I have to mount wiht wire coming out the left side so it will reach next to my grip (760mm bars) and not all bad since it barely reaches. Not alot of wire flopping around.

    All this talk of using a computer to program etc I think the whole point of MTBing has been lost on those people. Its not meant to be reliant on electronics to do everything. And honestly for me, I have ot be seriously trying to enter programming mode but using double click while on isnt a perfect idea. Best idea for that function is have seen is turn on to the mode level you want to program, push and hold till light is off and continue to hold till light flashes. Set your mode level, press and hold back to off. Ya forgive my cheap chinese light reference but one light that is crap beyond the driver, shines for the best on board programming set up.

  67. #467
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    ... Best idea for that function is have seen is turn on to the mode level you want to program, push and hold till light is off and continue to hold till light flashes. Set your mode level, press and hold back to off. Ya forgive my cheap chinese light reference but one light that is crap beyond the driver, shines for the best on board programming set up.
    What about (just briefly): hold the button and connect the battery (to get into programming mode). Start Trail or Commuter program like actual UI. Select desired level by click, double click to programm it (like actual UI), select another level, etc. Turn the light off (= end of programming mode). Start the light as usually (= operational mode), double click will not work in this mode. What do you think?
    That's my original idea, I haven't seen it anywhere .

  68. #468
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    these little remote buttons and gloves are why i use pogies. wear my fall gloves all winter, switch inside like everything else. Not always an option for some but I cant stand thick gloves.

    I can agree the remote wires need to be a tad longer. My X2 I have to mount wiht wire coming out the left side so it will reach next to my grip (760mm bars) and not all bad since it barely reaches. Not alot of wire flopping around.

    All this talk of using a computer to program etc I think the whole point of MTBing has been lost on those people. Its not meant to be reliant on electronics to do everything. And honestly for me, I have ot be seriously trying to enter programming mode but using double click while on isnt a perfect idea. Best idea for that function is have seen is turn on to the mode level you want to program, push and hold till light is off and continue to hold till light flashes. Set your mode level, press and hold back to off. Ya forgive my cheap chinese light reference but one light that is crap beyond the driver, shines for the best on board programming set up.
    This UI you describe tigris99 sounds very similar to one of my favorite ones found in the Gemini products. Great UI IMO.

  69. #469
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    I would disagree that the cheap Chinese light "shines for the best on board programming setup". You like it, but that doesn't make it the best. I prefer Gloworm's setup because the time it takes to reprogram the unit is faster than the other lights I've used, and there are fewer steps, so I don't forget how. Again, not the best UI, because we all have our preferences.

    Same deal with the wires. Some want them longer, but others don't want extra wire. Action-LED gives us the option of modifying the length of the button wire, so this isn't even an issue, yet complaints about wire length persist.

    I wish my Gloworm lights came with glass instead of plastic lens covers. I'd be willing to pay more for the option. Most wouldn't, so I deal. Nit-picking every last detail on the forums is just a circle-jerk. Send the mfg an email. They received my email praising their UI last year, along with a request to improve their go-pro mount. They listen to their end users.
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  70. #470
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    @flamingtaco
    Apparently you have NO understanding of the purpose of a forum.

    "To discuss products, services, ideas, etc".

    So the only one in the circle jerk would be you. Especially when your one email had 0 effect, they watch these threads and base update decisions off that. It's call " market demand". If the majority would like a change, they can see the entire discussion to determine best course of action.

    No disrespect man but your out of your element here. There's a reason manufactures send lights for reviews and everything else just to be posted here. To have knowledgeable people give their thoughts, others can give theirs. That's where the updates start from. Basically proving your entire last post incorrect.

    Oh and I never said the Chinese light had the BEST UI. I said it has the "best I've seen for that function " referring to ACCESSING PROGRAMMING MODE. Nothing more. And this discussion caused me to mess with mine more. I see why there is MORE COMPLAINTS than PRAISES for how you access the programming. It's not a double click (2 rapid clicks like using a mouse), it's 2 very seperate clicks. So basically how I change modes in my 10 other lights (as well as major majority of other night time rider's) causes these to go into programming mode.

    Having it be 2 very close together, rapid clicks is so much better. The long press set up I personally like best as it keeps programming mode from being accidently accessed ever during riding. But rapid double click is good too. Not this 2 separate presses.

    That said, with all the lights I have, if I had such a problem with gloworm, why in the he!! Would I pay hard earned money for lights that will sit on a stand most of their life. Cause they are still awesome lights. But the purpose of this thread is to "nit pick". It's the purpose of most threads on MTBR.

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  71. #471
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flamingtaco View Post
    .....I wish my Gloworm lights came with glass instead of plastic lens covers. I'd be willing to pay more for the option. Most wouldn't, so I deal.
    You could probably find glass covers to suit the Gloworm here....

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  72. #472
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    Sadly the cover is a single AR coated piece of acrylic or lexan. I can see a plus side too it (scratches) but can understand why they don't as well (impact resistance and cost).

    Reinforced AR coated glass cover would be sweet though.

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  73. #473
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    Gloworm XS

    Nice, Jim at Action-LED-Lights saw my post with the beat up XS switch and sent me a new housing! Super fast shipping too.

    He was even polite enough not to mention that I should "keep the rubber side down."

    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-img_7028.jpg
    Last edited by patski; 03-10-2016 at 08:34 PM.

  74. #474
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    My switch is starting to fail!

    Regarding the program mode. Just make it so you have to do 6 or 5 double clicks to enter it! 6 fast clicks and youre in. then you can double click as much as you want in regular use. Burt it needs to be more than just 2 fast clicks to enter program imo. Or better yet program it with a computer. or a phone or whatever stuff there is.
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  75. #475
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    Ok bit the bullet. Like my x2 neutral a lot. It's the best one I got in my arsenal, which has some really good off brand lights. It's a matter of performance and the x2 is tops. So I ordered the xs refurb nw bar clamp beast from hell! I can't fathom spending more on lights but this is my last purchase! I swear to the bike gods, please?

  76. #476
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    @flamingtaco
    Apparently you have NO understanding of the purpose of a forum.

    "To discuss products, services, ideas, etc".

    So the only one in the circle jerk would be you. Especially when your one email had 0 effect, they watch these threads and base update decisions off that. It's call " market demand". If the majority would like a change, they can see the entire discussion to determine best course of action.

    No disrespect man but your out of your element here. There's a reason manufactures send lights for reviews and everything else just to be posted here. To have knowledgeable people give their thoughts, others can give theirs. That's where the updates start from. Basically proving your entire last post incorrect.

    Oh and I never said the Chinese light had the BEST UI. I said it has the "best I've seen for that function " referring to ACCESSING PROGRAMMING MODE. Nothing more. And this discussion caused me to mess with mine more. I see why there is MORE COMPLAINTS than PRAISES for how you access the programming. It's not a double click (2 rapid clicks like using a mouse), it's 2 very seperate clicks. So basically how I change modes in my 10 other lights (as well as major majority of other night time rider's) causes these to go into programming mode.

    Having it be 2 very close together, rapid clicks is so much better. The long press set up I personally like best as it keeps programming mode from being accidently accessed ever during riding. But rapid double click is good too. Not this 2 separate presses.

    That said, with all the lights I have, if I had such a problem with gloworm, why in the he!! Would I pay hard earned money for lights that will sit on a stand most of their life. Cause they are still awesome lights. But the purpose of this thread is to "nit pick". It's the purpose of most threads on MTBR.

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  77. #477
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    You could probably find glass covers to suit the Gloworm here....

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    Thanks, are those AR coated?

    There's a scientific shop I've got a link for somewhere that I've ordered bezels for flashlights, that has high quality AR coatings, dichroic, color altering, frequency filtering, and whatnot. Haven't ordered because I need another project like I need a hole in my tire.
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  78. #478
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    Went for a short ride with my xs/x2 refurb combo. All I can say is holy kaw! The ui wasn't really making sense, but a few rides later, it's quite good. The neutral tint is simply amazing. Another high powered light I returned to Amazon could Learn a few things about optics and beam tint from Gloworm. Having 3500+ lumens is kinda excessive for my type of riding but the xs/x2 makes most all of the light useable.

  79. #479
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flamingtaco View Post
    I would disagree that the cheap Chinese light "shines for the best on board programming setup". You like it, but that doesn't make it the best. I prefer Gloworm's setup because the time it takes to reprogram the unit is faster than the other lights I've used, and there are fewer steps, so I don't forget how. Again, not the best UI, because we all have our preferences.

    Same deal with the wires. Some want them longer, but others don't want extra wire. Action-LED gives us the option of modifying the length of the button wire, so this isn't even an issue, yet complaints about wire length persist.

    I wish my Gloworm lights came with glass instead of plastic lens covers. I'd be willing to pay more for the option. Most wouldn't, so I deal. Nit-picking every last detail on the forums is just a circle-jerk. Send the mfg an email. They received my email praising their UI last year, along with a request to improve their go-pro mount. They listen to their end users.
    Hey, it's okay to have a difference of opinion. Believe it not, it happens all the time.

    Just to clarify some things: This is a Gloworm thread and it needs to be pointed out that not only does GW have an active dealer on the forum but the manufacturer does as well. The discussions and ideas that are talked about on the forum get regular feedback from the manufacturer and the dealer. For the manufacturer the forum is a great place to see what the end users want and if there are any common problems with the products.

    I think I was one of the first ones to point out the ( too short ) remote wire problem. It took time and many on-line discussions from others before the manufacturer came to realize that it was more than just a few people who were having problems with the wire length.

    I think I was actually also the first person to point out the problem with the new programmable UI. Don't get me wrong, I love the GW light systems but it was a bad idea to make the access function to the programming mode a "rapid double click". Here's why; When I purchased my first GW lamps, the original versions were not programmable. You could rapid click to your hearts content and never have a problem while changing modes. I used to rapid click all the time ( going from sub-low or low mode to high after reaching the crest of a hill and then preparing for the big down-hill ).

    Now when I did this with the newer versions ( version 3? ) the quick double click would shoot me into programming mode....Not what I wanted to happen when I was about the start dodging ruts at high speed. FWIW, I too have a number of cheaper Chinese lamps that also have programmable mode user interface ( UI ). Those are very simple to program, have the same ten-step output choice as the GW's ( or other lamps ) but use a "press/hold function to activate/enter the programming mode of each mode.

    Yes, Gemini lights uses "this same programming function" as the cheaper Chinese lamps and in all honesty, this is a better way to access the programming function....IMO. Not to mention the Gemini's are easier to turn off. Of course the GWorms have an additional "race menu" ( two modes only ) that the others don't offer so if you can remember to change modes a little slower it shouldn't be that much of a problem and in the end you get more features with the Gloworms.

    Just now I tried my newest X2 with neutral LEDs and it too functions the same way; a rapid double click enters the program mode. Fortunately I don't rapid double Click all the time so I can live with it but I would LOVE to rapid double click like I did with the older Gloworm models.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Flamingtaco View Post
    Thanks, are those AR coated?
    The ones I bought for one of my DIY lights were not. I don't recall if they specifically mentioned AR coatings but I do recall they offered a couple different glass types.
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  81. #481
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flamingtaco View Post
    Thanks, are those AR coated?

    There's a scientific shop I've got a link for somewhere that I've ordered bezels for flashlights, that has high quality AR coatings, dichroic, color altering, frequency filtering, and whatnot. Haven't ordered because I need another project like I need a hole in my tire.
    The AR coated lens idea seems like a good one. Perhaps the manufacturer will read this and consider offering it as an "aftermarket option". Not that I need one for my bar mounted X2 but if I were to buy an XS and use it on the helmet it might help me squeeze out some more OTF lumens. As an after thought, it might also help give better color rendition when using the neutral emitters. ( * I have AR coated lenses on a couple torches I own and they do help create a cleaner beam pattern )

  82. #482
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    Gloworm lights have AR coated poly-carbonate cover over the lens. Found that out on my x2. Wasn't expected till I opened mine to go dual spot. So nothing to gain there. Taco was looking for glass vs poly-carbonate due to scratch resistance I'm assuming.

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    Is anyone running the flood beam optional lenses on their Xs when using it as a bar light? Just wondering how big a difference there is and what your overall thoughts were
    Never argue with an idiot. They'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience every time.

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    It's not a huge difference IMHO. It brightens up the spill a little but definitely not what I would consider "flood". I would be more inclined to go with the wide angle optics instead if your trying to spread the BEAM out for more coverage.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk

  85. #485
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    Quote Originally Posted by TomFL View Post
    Is anyone running the flood beam optional lenses on their Xs when using it as a bar light? Just wondering how big a difference there is and what your overall thoughts were
    Don't waste your time with the flood optic as the spot has just as wide a beam and more throw (intensity). On the other hand the wide angle (fluted) optic widens the beam considerably at the expense of its throw ability of course. Having 3 changeable optics allows you to fine tune the XS beam pattern to your preference but even running 3 of the wide angle optics the light still has more than adequate throw IMO and is the way I usually configure mine for bar usage.
    Mole

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  86. #486
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    It's not a huge difference IMHO. It brightens up the spill a little but definitely not what I would consider "flood". I would be more inclined to go with the wide angle optics instead if your trying to spread the BEAM out for more coverage.

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Sorry, I misspoke. What I was looking for input on is actually what you're describing. The wide angle optic.

    Gloworm X2/XS Wide Angle Optic ? Action-LED-Lights

    Has anyone tried these, if so what are your thoughts?
    Never argue with an idiot. They'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience every time.

  87. #487
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    Don't waste your time with the flood optic as the spot has just as wide a beam and more throw (intensity). On the other hand the wide angle (fluted) optic widens the beam considerably at the expense of its throw ability of course. Having 3 changeable optics allows you to fine tune the XS beam pattern to your preference but even running 3 of the wide angle optics the light still has more than adequate throw IMO and is the way I usually configure mine for bar usage.
    Mole

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    Mole, thank you that's great info. Exactly what I was looking for. How difficult was it to change the optic?
    Never argue with an idiot. They'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience every time.

  88. #488
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    Quote Originally Posted by TomFL View Post
    Mole, thank you that's great info. Exactly what I was looking for. How difficult was it to change the optic?
    If you have the correct allen key you just remove the 4 screws holding the bezel (face plate) on, lift the plastic lens cover off (o-ring seal may come off with the cover) and replace the optics you want to change (fluting needs to be aligned vertically ***). Replace the parts in reverse order and your done.
    Mole

    *** (Sorry I didn't have a XS example picture)
    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-001-5-.jpg

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    Excellent info. Going dual spot on my x2. Not that it's hurting on throw with stock setup!

  90. #490
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigris99 View Post
    Taco was looking for glass vs poly-carbonate due to scratch resistance I'm assuming.
    Yes.

    Glass stays cleaner, is easier to clean, is harder to scratch, sheds rain better, and doesn't UV degrade like poly and acrylic.

    And if the poly or acrylic isn't top line optical quality, optical glass will outperform it on light transmission.
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    any beam shots of both lenses?

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    What lenses are you referring to??

    If your asking about the discussion of acrylic vs glass lens that covers the optics, a glass one doesn't exist. And would have 0 effect on beam pattern using either one.

    That was just a discussion of glass versus plastic for durability.

    BTW Taco, being I have an x2 and XS now, I will do a lumen output check with and without the acrylic lens. Will tell us really fast if it's not optical quality but from visual check I see nothing that screams low grade acrylic (like you see at the hardware store)

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    Figured I'd move my "discussion" over here since we're on my new xs.

    Here's how I intend to try it out as a helmet light (already has triple spot optics installed now). Made a custom 2 cell pack using 5200mah EVVA protected 26650 cells. Weighs 50g more than my 2 cell Fenix case with NCR18650GA 3500mah cells, and about 25g less than a 4 cell ncr18650b (same cells as would come new with an XS) without a pouch.

    It's a bit heavy. Heaviest set up I've tried all on my helmet but it's WELL BALANCED.



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  94. #494
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    Finally got a chance to go out for a night ride since I got this. Didn't get pics as it was a group ride on trails ID never ridden at night, but my favorite during the day. Got video though that I'll get uploaded when I get a chance.

    Had my xs on the helmet and wiz20 on the bars. Was A LOT of light when I put them both on high. Literally turned it to daylight in front of me (not this over exaggeration like most people). Was too much light most of the time, only on the 2 long and fast decents did I use one or both on high.

    Down side is where it gets tight it would get hard to see if I glanced at a tree lol.

    I'm liking the higher power light on the lid method, was much more evenly "appearing" light for my full line of site.

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    I changed the stock power settings to something I preferred (no idea, set by visual preference). With this or the stock power settings, it always works well with the helmet lamp one setting higher than the bar lamp... and it's the same with the X1 I picked up on sale recently. The X1 appears to have a smaller total area but same apparent brightness as the X2, and I must admit, I'm enjoying it more on the helmet than the X2. Something about a round area of light when looking outside the influence of the XS on the bar just feels good. I'm glad I picked it up. I can now lend my X2 to my boys to use as a primary light when we ride together. Happy times.

    I don't get where you say your helmet feels balanced. The fenix case with 18650 batteries is a lot heavier than the X2. I had my X2 mounted lower than yours, on the very front of my helmet, and the fenix case on the top rear (Bell Sweep), and it definitely was weighted to the rear. Do you instead mean that it does not feel top heavy? Having no weight on the top is a lot more comfortable, the helmet doesn't shift around due to momentum, but it's still going to be considerably heavier in the rear.

    I'd like to see single battery cases. I'd like to split the helmet in thirds between the lamp and two batteries. Can't lose the weight, but we could at least balance our helmets.

    With all the holes helmets have now, having a location large enough to insert a battery case so it sits flush with the helmet would also rock. There's so much space between the outer skin of my helmet and my head at the 'swept' portion of my helmet, can't see it interfering with the material required for protection.
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  96. #496
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    Taco,

    You missed a key detail

    Not an X2 on my helmet, its my XS.

    Ive found I like more power on the lid than the bars. SO I tried this route and liking it so far. I spend so little time being able to look directly in front of me on my trails (not much for flat or straight terrain) that having more light off the bars was causing me no to stay looking around "where i want to be" vs where bike is currently pointing. part of that was tighter optics on the bars causing part of the issue.

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    Had my set 2 years
    Absolutely love them, might get x1 for night running
    Good to see a Kiwi company leading the way
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  98. #498
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    Optic tune-up



    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-006.jpg

    Since I started measuring output with a light meter I've noticed the lights optics loose efficiency/performance with time/use. I've had my XS over 2 yrs. now so I thought I'd put in a new set to give it kind of a tune-up. Here's the results I got.

    lux measured @ 2 meters.................Bounce test......Center Beam

    Pulled out of light box and
    hooked up to a charged battery:.............278.................9500

    Cleaned optics and clear cover:..............289..................10200

    New Optics:.........................................30 9..................12240

    Nice increase!
    Mole

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    Wow, good increase on the optics change, MRMOLE.

  100. #500
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    Nice increase!
    Mole
    Nice Work!!

    Tune-up time!

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