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  1. #201
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    the X2 or XS needs to go on sale already.
    The days are getting shorter...i need to be tempted to buy one.

  2. #202
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    Re: Gloworm XS are you getting one?

    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    zjchaser,

    Are you aware of the switch mount Gloworm is providing with all the lights now? There are a couple of foam strip on the underside and two black zip ties are included

    Attachment 925250
    Ya, I have seen those. Looks good. I just happen to have tons of those other mounts laying around. I'll order one of the new switch mounts from you with my next order

    Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
    AJ

  3. #203
    Action LED Lights
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    Quote Originally Posted by NightOWL View Post
    the X2 or XS needs to go on sale already.
    The days are getting shorter...i need to be tempted to buy one.
    They are on sale!
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
    www.action-led-lights.com

  4. #204
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    Took my new Gloworm X2 out for a test ride tonight, on my helmet, it's like getting Lasik, awesome.

    Thanks Jim!

    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    They are on sale!

  5. #205
    zeb
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    I have GW X2 on helmet for second year in row.Plenty of light but i definitely need another light on steering bar.
    Ordered new X2/XS combo 7th,oct from same dealer as the first one.Crgmoto.
    Cant wait it to arrive..Royal (P)mail as courier is not my favorite at all.

  6. #206
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    *cough* group buy

  7. #207
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    I ended up with two XS's, one on the bar and one on the helmet. Results are amazing! The trails now are as bright as daylight. I have to dim them on the street though as the splash back from street signs is blinding, and likely a bit annoying to the few motorists I see.

  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paochow View Post
    I ended up with two XS's, one on the bar and one on the helmet. Results are amazing! The trails now are as bright as daylight. I have to dim them on the street though as the splash back from street signs is blinding, and likely a bit annoying to the few motorists I see.
    4500lumens
    Last edited by Gharddog03; 10-13-2014 at 08:46 PM.
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  9. #209
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    Nice!!

    I have the XS/X2 combo from ACTION-LED, kind of nice not having to bring clear glasses for when it gets dark, just my "medium" ones...

    Quote Originally Posted by Paochow View Post
    I ended up with two XS's, one on the bar and one on the helmet. Results are amazing! The trails now are as bright as daylight. I have to dim them on the street though as the splash back from street signs is blinding, and likely a bit annoying to the few motorists I see.

  10. #210
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    Riding with the XS/X1 combo from Action-LED. X1 makes for a great helmet light - super tiny with a nice fairly wide spot beam and great throw. XS on the bar lights everything up. Nice ordering from Action-LED - super fast shipping and great service.

  11. #211
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    Just bought mine yesterday. Should have it in a few days to take over for my Olympia 1700 which my battery died on.

  12. #212
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    What is the XS run time with:
    1. Magicshine 4 cell battery
    2. Gloworm 2 cell battery

  13. #213
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    I'm just about to pull the trigger on some Gloworm lights. I've decided on XS for the handle bars but I am torn between XS and X2.V3 for the helmet. I am concerned that the X2s on the helmet will be over powered by the XS on the handlebar. But I am also concerned that the XS will be too heavy on the helmet. The price difference is inconsequential. I mainly ride fast single track with rocky sections.
    Any advise would be appreciated.

  14. #214
    zeb
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    Quote Originally Posted by zeb View Post
    I have GW X2 on helmet for second year in row.Plenty of light but i definitely need another light on steering bar.
    Ordered new X2/XS combo 7th,oct from same dealer as the first one.Crgmoto.
    Cant wait it to arrive..Royal (P)mail as courier is not my favorite ay all.
    No tracking code or reply to e-mail from Crg moto.Are they out of lights or business?

  15. #215
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    XS or X2

    Quote Originally Posted by leachy_9 View Post
    I'm just about to pull the trigger on some Gloworm lights. I've decided on XS for the handle bars but I am torn between XS and X2.V3 for the helmet. I am concerned that the X2s on the helmet will be over powered by the XS on the handlebar. But I am also concerned that the XS will be too heavy on the helmet. The price difference is inconsequential. I mainly ride fast single track with rocky sections.
    Any advise would be appreciated.
    Personally I would get the X2 to go with the XS. Although the XS would be fine and is not too heavy for a helmet light, the X2 can have a much more focused beam and would be better for looking where you are going when your bars are pointing down the trail.

    We designed the XS to be used with the X2 for maximum effectiveness.

    Hope that helps somewhat?

    Bruce
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    '...it's more fun with the lites on!'

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by zeb View Post
    No tracking code or reply to e-mail from Crg moto.Are they out of lights or business?
    Hi zeb

    I have no outstanding orders for XS that haven't been shipped. Please pm me your order details on here and I'll look into it for you.

    Cheers
    Danny

  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by leachy_9 View Post
    I'm just about to pull the trigger on some Gloworm lights. I've decided on XS for the handle bars but I am torn between XS and X2.V3 for the helmet. I am concerned that the X2s on the helmet will be over powered by the XS on the handlebar. But I am also concerned that the XS will be too heavy on the helmet. The price difference is inconsequential. I mainly ride fast single track with rocky sections.
    Any advise would be appreciated.
    I understand the dilemma. Finding a lamp that will complement the XS on the bars would be hard to do. I've considered getting an XS and running it on the helmet ( with X2 (v3) on the bars. I'm still on the fence though. Trying to find the perfect helmet lamp is something that can cost the big bucks if you want something light-weight and powerful ( with the right beam pattern ).

    Right now I'm using two Xeccon lamps on my helmet to complement the X2 on the bars. While it works well it is somewhat heavy and very clunky.

  18. #218
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    You want the more powerful light with the wider beam on the bars anyways to fast shadows behind the rocks you want to avoid. If your helmet light is to powerful then where ever you look you'll be drowning out the shadows and the trail definition will become vague. If you run an XS on the bars then you don't want an XS for the helmet unless you want to run it at 60% the output of whatever you have your bar XS set to. Just go with the X2 and save weight and money. It'll also simplify the setup since you can just run both lights at the same %setting and achieve the preferred balance.

  19. #219
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    Thanks for the input everyone. I've just ordered an XS for the bars and an X2.V3 for the helmet.

  20. #220
    zeb
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    Finally got gws.thnx Danny at CRG
    Edit:
    Last edited by zeb; 10-28-2014 at 09:01 AM.

  21. #221
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    Gloworm XS/X2 Combo from Action-LED

    Quote Originally Posted by leachy_9 View Post
    Thanks for the input everyone. I've just ordered an XS for the bars and an X2.V3 for the helmet.
    Ride report?

    Think You'll be happy, I just posted this on a different thread.

  22. #222
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    I used the combination XS and X2.V3.1 for the first time yesterday and I am very satisfied with these lights!








  23. #223
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    Will the XS battery sit in a bottle cage, instead of hanging from the top tube

  24. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike625 View Post
    Will the XS battery sit in a bottle cage, instead of hanging from the top tube
    You could certainly fit it into a wide mouth water bottle and stuff some foam in with it so it won't rattle about. Or you could strap it into a water bottle cage as is.
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
    www.action-led-lights.com

  25. #225
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    How does the X2 compare to the Gemini Duo ? Does the X2 make for a great bar mount also ?
    Hit the trails with your bike and get freaky.

  26. #226
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    if you are looking to mount it on the bar, you can get a nice metal clamp by Gloworm ($40). It's optional with the X2, and standard with the XS.

  27. #227
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    Is it just me or do the x2 and xs look simliar in the 2015 test?

  28. #228
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  29. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by NightOWL View Post
    Is it just me or do the x2 and xs look simliar in the 2015 test?
    I haven't looked at the 2015 reviews yet but judging from the 2014 reviews there should be no major differences. The back yard photos are limited by distance. In that environment they both look the same. You need more distance to notice the difference. This is one of the reasons why I have not run out to buy an XS for the bars as I personally don't feel the need for more light coming off the bars while using the X2 (v3). If I did buy an XS it would be in an attempt to get more light coming off the helmet and shining far into the distance. Since I'm not sure how that would work that's the only reason I haven't bought one.

  30. #230
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    I haven't looked at the 2015 reviews yet but judging from the 2014 reviews there should be no major differences. The back yard photos are limited by distance. In that environment they both look the same. You need more distance to notice the difference. This is one of the reasons why I have not run out to buy an XS for the bars as I personally don't feel the need for more light coming off the bars while using the X2 (v3). If I did buy an XS it would be in an attempt to get more light coming off the helmet and shining far into the distance. Since I'm not sure how that would work that's the only reason I haven't bought one.
    Cat, your wish has been answered. Check out the youtube videos of MTBRs 2015 light shootout. They have a Gopro video of the XS as a helmet light. While I think the XS would make a great helmet light I also think most people would use it on the bars so I hope we get an XS bar light video also (please).
    Mole

  31. #231
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    Quote Originally Posted by NightOWL View Post
    Is it just me or do the x2 and xs look simliar in the 2015 test?
    Was surprised by that, and also that the new Dinotte showed so much brighter than the XS. I figured inconsistent test photography, but who knows?

  32. #232
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    Quote Originally Posted by pigmode View Post
    Was surprised by that, and also that the new Dinotte showed so much brighter than the XS. I figured inconsistent test photography ?
    I agree with this statement. If you compare the XS to the X2 (which have the same optics), the XS illuminates much higher on the tree so I'm assuming it was aimed upwards considerably more than necessary. Too bad!
    Mole

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by pigmode View Post
    Was surprised by that, and also that the new Dinotte showed so much brighter than the XS. I figured inconsistent test photography, but who knows?
    Ehh...I have to disagree. I thought the DiNotte XML3 had more foreground light but not as much throw. The XS also looked brighter overall. To me it looked as though the DiNotte was using XM-L2 T6 bin vs. the X/S which looks whiter, perhaps using the XM-L2 U2 bin. With this in mind, the XS if setup with 3-spot optics will perhaps look even brighter in the distance.

    What really surprised me was the output of the Lupine Wilma 7! I expected that to look much brighter than any of the other brand name lamps. I thought the photo of the Gloworm XS looked brighter than the Wilma and something has to be wrong with that. Francois, you might want to check that one again. Previous 2014 photos showed the Wilma 7 being much brighter. Perhaps the heat protection kicked in while doing the test (?)

  34. #234
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    XS just kicks ass!!!!

    For around 240$ with a hunk Lee battery and charger. You can't beat it!!
    "PLEASE LORD FORBID THEM FROM ENTERING, FORGIVE US FOR THEY SHALL NEVER LEAVE"

  35. #235
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    Hunk Lee battery? Do you mind linking to what you used?

  36. #236
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    "PLEASE LORD FORBID THEM FROM ENTERING, FORGIVE US FOR THEY SHALL NEVER LEAVE"

  37. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Ehh...I have to disagree. I thought the DiNotte XML3 had more foreground light but not as much throw. The XS also looked brighter overall. To me it looked as though the DiNotte was using XM-L2 T6 bin vs. the X/S which looks whiter, perhaps using the XM-L2 U2 bin. With this in mind, the XS if setup with 3-spot optics will perhaps look even brighter in the distance.


    Basically I still don't see what you see, and perhaps other do not either. If the untrained eye can't see the difference, then the utility of these photo comparisons is lost.

  38. #238
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    Quote Originally Posted by pigmode View Post
    Basically I still don't see what you see, and perhaps other do not either. If the untrained eye can't see the difference, then the utility of these photo comparisons is lost.
    It's all good. Everyone's opinion is respected here and no two people see things exactly alike anyway. Actually, I expected the DiNotte XML3 to have a much more intense center spot. I do tend to favor lamps that provide more throw so pardon my bias. In the photo ( 2015 review ) the DiNotte XML3 looks like it gives a flood beam pattern. I've seen photo's of the previous versions and none of those photo's look anything like what I see in the new review. Perhaps there are some issues about how the lamps are aimed but I don't know just how off any of the photos might be concerning that. I'm just commenting on what I see. It could be that DiNotte chose to make the outer lens more of a "dispersal" type lens on the newer lamps. Since I don't own any of the lamps I can't say for sure.

    All of this said I was considering buying an XML3 at one point to use on the helmet. After seeing these beam shot photos I don't think I would consider one ( 2015 model ) for the helmet but it does look like it would make a good bar lamp. Unfortunately, if the beam shots are off ( in any way ) then I could be completely wrong. This might be why DiNotte has chosen "not" to send lamps to be reviewed in the previous years. Unfavorable photos could certainly hurt their sales.

    Going forward what I wish DiNotte would do would be to offer the user a choice of optics. If they did that I would have likely bought one.

  39. #239
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    Been riding with my XS for a couple of weeks thus far. Initially, I was honestly a little bit disappointed with the beam pattern, as I tend to favor lights with more flood than throw. Despite action-led's review proclaiming the futility of the gloworm flood optics, I did go ahead and switch out to two floods and a spot. Maybe it is a placebo effect, but I like it better. Sitting up and looking at the bars from a few feet back, the flood effect is impressive. Even rounding switchbacks, the trail ahead is lit more than enough. I am pretty dang happy with the light now, and I think it will be perfect for 90% of my night riding which is on snow in deep winter.

    The light output is definitely very impressive, and I have had multiple passersby comment on it already. Bombing down a trail balls out on high feels completely comfortable. Comparing it to my Magicshine MJ-856, the XS is quite noticeably brighter on high, but the 856 is floodier. I also like that I can mount the light far forward of the bar, so it does not blind me when I stand up while climbing. Finally, even on high, the light stays nice and cool while riding. It will heat up and kick down if you leave it stationary for a long time, but given its form factor and output, I am amazed that it stays as cool as it does.

    I do, however, have two criticisms of the light.

    First, the arrangement and length of the remote and battery cables is quite flawed. Why would you have two cables, which obviously have completely different destinations, come out of the light together and then split many cm later? The remote is headed to the end of the handlebar, while the battery hookup is clearly headed back towards the frame. I can understand if you only want one cable exiting the light body for sealing reasons, but they should split immediately. With the current arrangement, the cables end up awkwardly bridged under the handlebar and are in danger of being contacted by an errants knee. I have difficulty even getting the cable to reach my battery when the bars are turned. I am hoping that this scenario does not cause issues when running pogies. On the plus side, I do like having the remote more than I anticipated. Makes it super easy to dim the light for oncoming traffic, but more for hikers that appear out of nowhere and are easily blinded.

    Second, the battery indicator is grossly inaccurate. I raised this issue with action LED, and Jim states that it is a known issue related to the increased draw of the XS vs the X2. Basically, the light blinks less than 20% after only an hour of use on high, however it will go another hour when runtime tested. After runtime testing it, I feel more comfortable, but it is still disconcerting when you are way out there and you have flashing red. Apparently they are working on new endcaps for the battery. For now, my solution is to put the battery in a neoprene case, which is fine because I think the stock velcro strap is inadequate.

  40. #240
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    For those that run the XS on the helmet... would you do it again?

    And did I miss the memo? Where is the 2015 XS video you speak of?

  41. #241
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    Just got my XS in the mail and it appears to only have two brightness settings in the trail mode, but according to the manual it should have 3 (maybe 4?). I tried holding down the button for 15 seconds to reset everything but it still has just two brightness settings. I made sure that I'm only clicking once to turn it on. Anyone have an idea on what I'm doing wrong?
    -Kris

  42. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by chamberlink View Post
    Just got my XS in the mail and it appears to only have two brightness settings in the trail mode, but according to the manual it should have 3 (maybe 4?). I tried holding down the button for 15 seconds to reset everything but it still has just two brightness settings. I made sure that I'm only clicking once to turn it on. Anyone have an idea on what I'm doing wrong?
    -Kris
    @Chamberlink. It sounds liek youare going direclty into the commute programme. When starting the light in Trail mode you should be clicking the button not holding and pressing. If you hold the button for anything longer than a about 0.5 sec it may interperate as something other than the Click...if that makes sense.

    Let me know how it goes and we can diagnose from there.

    Also, when you reset, you should hold for 15 sec from the 'OFF' state.

    Cheers

    Bruce
    Gloworm
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    '...it's more fun with the lites on!'

  43. #243
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    Definitely looks good..

  44. #244
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    Hi LightFans,
    My X2 v3 turned up from CRGMoto this week (thanks Danny) and have to say it's a really impressive light. My previous light was the MagicShine MJ-880 which was also a great light, but developed a fault where it starts to 'flicker' between high and low when it gets warm, i.e. a faulty thermal switch (??). So I thought I'd try another brand, and being an NZ expat thought gave the Kiwiboys light a go... plus I liked the fact that the lumens quoted where actual 1500 and not theoretical like the MJ-880 2200. It turns out according to the MTBR Shootout that the output of the X2 and the MJ-880 is very comparable, so a no brainer really.

    I think I'm going to get on really well with the X2, but what I will miss about the MJ-880 is that they have a switch that is illuminated so you can see it on the handlebar, also that the colour of this illumination changes depending on how much charge is left in the battery. This is a good feature and I would love to see this on the Gloworm's switch sometime in the future...

    Great product Bruce and Co and I now look forward to the XS being my next light to complement my X2.

    Deano

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gloworm Manufacture View Post
    @Chamberlink. It sounds liek youare going direclty into the commute programme. When starting the light in Trail mode you should be clicking the button not holding and pressing. If you hold the button for anything longer than a about 0.5 sec it may interperate as something other than the Click...if that makes sense.

    Let me know how it goes and we can diagnose from there.

    Also, when you reset, you should hold for 15 sec from the 'OFF' state.

    Cheers

    Bruce
    Gloworm
    Thanks for the help, I got it figured out. The battery wasn't fully charged when I first turned it on. Got it charged completely and now it works just fine. Can't wait to try it out this week!!!

  46. #246
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    Anyone know if they are using XML's or XML2's in the Gloworm XS?

  47. #247
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    Look like xm-l2s.

  48. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by simplec6 View Post
    Anyone know if they are using XML's or XML2's in the Gloworm XS?
    The XS uses XML2 - U2 LEDs

    Cheers

    Bruce
    Gloworm
    Gloworm Website

    '...it's more fun with the lites on!'

  49. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gloworm Manufacture View Post
    The XS uses XML2 - U2 LEDs

    Cheers

    Bruce
    Gloworm
    Cheers Bruce, exactly what I wanted to hear. I just ordered an XS as my first Gloworm product.
    Looking forward to using it and will post my review here when it arrives.

  50. #250
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    Is the X2 and XS going to be the 2015 line up or is there any new lights or replacements coming out this year? This question is for Bruce.

  51. #251
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    Quote Originally Posted by mazspeed View Post
    Is the X2 and XS going to be the 2015 line up or is there any new lights or replacements coming out this year? This question is for Bruce.
    Hey, the XS and X2 are both being reviewed. We have no new lights coming out in the near future but we are always working on ideas and improvements!

    Cheers

    Bruce and Vag
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    '...it's more fun with the lites on!'

  52. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gloworm Manufacture View Post
    Hey, the XS and X2 are both being reviewed. We have no new lights coming out in the near future but we are always working on ideas and improvements!

    Cheers

    Bruce and Vag
    Gloworm
    Hi Gloworm,
    I own the latest version of X2 and as of tomorrow (according to USPS tracking) will also own an XS. My vote for "Improvements" is a more effective flood optic. Just customer feedback, love your products!
    Mole

  53. #253
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gloworm Manufacture View Post
    Hey, the XS and X2 are both being reviewed. We have no new lights coming out in the near future but we are always working on ideas and improvements!

    Cheers

    Bruce and Vag
    Gloworm
    What about using one of the cree array chips?? Some flashlight makers have started putting those in. Also maybe some good wide angle/flood light or wide and efficient optical lenses for the current ones. Or maybe a triple that uses large optics (and large cooling fins) like all the single emitter lights uses, for commuters or non weight concerned people.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

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    Specialized sucks ass.

  54. #254
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    Oh yeah I came up with a good idea last time i was drunk. Use only a potentiometer (or encoder) to adjust the light output and on/off. It goes click at 7o clock and when you turn it up it gets brighter. Or maybe one that you have to push down (axially) on to turn it on, then just turn up usual. And there could be the choice of having the pot mounted so it points to the rear, up or the side with some small removable plates, the pot would be on a similar plate and use a wire internally in the housing to make the actual chosen position non important for the function of the light.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

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    Specialized sucks ass.

  55. #255
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    Not so good news

    My poor XS has been in better shape. First a faulty connection in the Y section of cable causing my button not to work most the time. Then I decided to cut out the Y and splice my own Y and while I was at it I lengthened the damn cables so they could reach the damn battery and my thumb like we've been asking for all year. Then due to my splicing creating a few extra stiff sections of cable it all reaches but is hardly what I'd want my $300 light cables to look like. So now I'm considering desoldering all the original wires and starting from scratch with some clean flexible wires of the proper length. Problem with the idea is I'm not the best at working with small electronics and soldering in tight places so I hope I don't **** it up. Kind of a pain in the ass to be deal with all this because Gloworm wouldn't make the cables 3" longer from the start.

    Now for the good news
    Because of all the work I'm been putting into this light I figured id finish a long standing project I've been putting off, and wide angle lens cover. The wide angle lens you buy for gloworm don't really get much in the way of spread and half of what you do get is sent high and low instead of left and right. Wide angle is not a flood and I want a nice bike horizontal rectangle across the trail. There's no getting around the fact that this is going to hurt the throw just like the gloworm lenses do but the idea is to at least get a moderate spread as a result.

    One idea two versions
    1. Leave the center led smooth and clear and wide angle the left and right leds. Still get some punch but mostly a shorter wider angle.

    2. Leave the left and right leds smooth and clear and only wide angle the center led. Retain most of the throw and add just a little wide angle to the mix.

    Here's a few pictures of what I've got so far and I'll be testing it over the next few weeks on trail. I don't have a meter like action-led does so I can't get any actual numbers but if they offer to test and graph it for me I'll send them a couple to test.
    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-0877e218-784c-46c8-acef-44e8e94f2afd_zpsdwotg35p.jpg
    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-959dc1a0-6b56-4df3-b9fe-9b1a45aa10a4_zpsobcagsku.jpg
    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-24ff8b63-c7ae-4ceb-9a9f-3bd5a5b458bd_zpstj6tidbh.jpg
    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-b392d150-3e3f-488d-a388-052d8c336d3f_zpsrhwlq7wv.jpg

  56. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by RojoRacing53 View Post

    [snip] ...figured id finish a long standing project I've been putting off, and wide angle lens cover... [/snip]

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Dat's Friggin' Awesome! SEND BEAM SHOTS!

    ps: how did you make that?

  57. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by patski View Post
    Dat's Friggin' Awesome! SEND BEAM SHOTS!

    ps: how did you make that?
    Machined out of polycarbonate which is held to the work surface with 3m double sided tape. You can buy the polycarbonate cheap at lowes or Home Depot and machining them is easy enough but polishing them till they are clear is a PITA.

    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-cde6521b-76d4-492f-97ee-3560d6b8e410_zpsvyvlxrhz.jpg
    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-ca4e64ab-88d8-4df4-8fc5-2dd51522becb_zpsi66smtui.jpgGloworm XS are you getting one?-71afcfd9-3493-416c-971b-47388a80bec3_zpsivlx0uu6.jpg

  58. #258
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    Is anyone running this lamp with a Panasonic 2-cell 3400mah battery? and if so what sort of run times are you getting on high and medium?

  59. #259
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    @ RoJo; You might try making a lens with only the parts I show darkened with a flood to add a bit of extra beam spread. Doing it this way you will get more light to the sides and a bit more light right in front of the bike without totally killing the throw.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Gloworm XS are you getting one?-gloworm-flood-suggestion.jpg  


  60. #260
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    @ RoJo; You might try making a lens with only the parts I show darkened with a flood to add a bit of extra beam spread. Doing it this way you will get more light to the sides and a bit more light right in front of the bike without totally killing the throw.
    Noted.

    I see the area between each optic but why the top are of the center optic?

  61. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by RojoRacing53 View Post
    Noted.

    I see the area between each optic but why the top are of the center optic?
    It would put a bit more light down right in front of the bike. Sort of like what Fenix did with one of their bike lights. The same theory should throw light to the right and left with the opposite LED's. I have no idea of course how it will actually look, it's just an idea. Perhaps all three LED's lenses with just the top area might work better.

  62. #262
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    Just did 35 miles out in Santa Cruz on a moonless night. New lens is F***ing awesome and I managed 3:30 hrs on one 6800 battery pack and on my last descent it just flickered the on 100% setting with about 5 mins to go. If I dropped it to med at that point I'd probably have gotten 4hrs. Santa Cruz area if your not familiar with it is a bunch of tight to semi open single tracks with lots of roots and some fast sections with lots of rocks. When your steering through the tight rooty areas I'm loving the extra wide beam action since it casting shadows behind the roots through the corner instead of only the helmet light smoothing out everything.

    As someone who loved that 4 led Magicshine for its incredible flood beam for the bars I think I'm a bit more biased toward flood at the cost of throw for the bars. The X2 on your helmet has all the throw you could want anyways. I still plan on make a few other variations to test myself as well as have Jim test them on his rig.

    It's been a long time since I thought "damn I wish I had my GoPro's" on a night ride but tonight was one of those nights.

  63. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by RojoRacing53 View Post
    Just did 35 miles out in Santa Cruz on a moonless night. New lens is F***ing awesome and I managed 3:30 hrs on one 6800 battery pack and on my last descent it just flickered the on 100% setting with about 5 mins to go. If I dropped it to med at that point I'd probably have gotten 4hrs....
    Real glad to hear you like the new beam pattern. I'm real surprised to hear that you got 3.5 hrs on high using the 6800mAh battery! I'm assuming you didn't switch to lower modes much?? Anyway, that is freaking fantastic run time for a 4-cell battery using a lamp like the XS. ( Oh, almost forgot, is this the Hunk Lee 6800mAh Panasonic or did you buy it somewhere else?)

    Last three days where I live the winter temperatures came home to roost. I wanted to ride but really didn't feel up to braving the cold. I hate winter, especially when it comes before Thanksgiving.

  64. #264
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    No I only used high in some of the areas with the most rocks or speed. Most used 20% and 60%, the light is very bright after all so there's no need to use what you don't need. This is why I *****ed about the button cable being to short for so much, I use nearly as much as some people use their shifter.

    battery is the 6800 gloworm that came with the XS. I just ordered a 13600 from Hucklee for my 24hr race and some if my more adventurous all nighter rides. Sorry you have to deal with the cold out there, over hear most trails are illegal to bikes so best time to poach is at night to minimize trail conflicts.

  65. #265
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    Hey guys. I just want to know if leaving the xs on high inside unattended can damage it?? I remember reading something about it in the manual.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  66. #266
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    Quote Originally Posted by car bone View Post
    Hey guys. I just want to know if leaving the xs on high inside unattended can damage it?? I remember reading something about it in the manual.
    My first question would be why would you do this?
    While the light does protects itself from overheating by throttling back, it is not generally a good idea unless the light is in front of a strong fan. (like this) (I know it's not an XS but you get the idea)

    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-light-fan.jpg

    Secondly, be sure and put some charge back on the battery as soon as possible. It's not good for it to leave it fully discharged for any length of time.
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
    www.action-led-lights.com

  67. #267
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    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    My first question would be why would you do this?
    While the light does protects itself from overheating by throttling back, it is not generally a good idea unless the light is in front of a strong fan. (like this) (I know it's not an XS but you get the idea)

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Secondly, be sure and put some charge back on the battery as soon as possible. It's not good for it to leave it fully discharged for any length of time.

    I don't plan on doing it but sometimes I might get distraced for a few minutes or so when the light is on full and I just wanted to know if there is a possibility of damaging it.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  68. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by car bone View Post
    I don't plan on doing it but sometimes I might get distraced for a few minutes or so when the light is on full and I just wanted to know if there is a possibility of damaging it.
    Not a problem. It will cut the power back if it starts to overheat.
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
    www.action-led-lights.com

  69. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by RojoRacing53 View Post
    No I only used high in some of the areas with the most rocks or speed. Most used 20% and 60%, the light is very bright after all so there's no need to use what you don't need. This is why I *****ed about the button cable being to short for so much, I use nearly as much as some people use their shifter....

    .....Sorry you have to deal with the cold out there, over hear most trails are illegal to bikes so best time to poach is at night to minimize trail conflicts.
    I hear ya. Sounds like you use the remote as much as me. I'm surprised to hear though that you don't find the remote on the new XS's long enough. I was under the impression that the newer GW lamps were long enough. I'm right with you in wanting a longer remote wire.

    Yep, some of the places I ride at night are restricted but because Chinese bike lights have become so cheap more people are riding at night and dissing the rules. Last time I went out I saw several people riding and most of those looked like they were just using standard MS or MS clones. The Park police don't want to enforce the stupid sunset rules anyway. I think they know by now that night mountain bike riding is a growing popular sport and see no cause to ruin someone else's good healthy past time.

  70. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    I hear ya. Sounds like you use the remote as much as me. I'm surprised to hear though that you don't find the remote on the new XS's long enough. I was under the impression that the newer GW lamps were long enough. I'm right with you in wanting a longer remote wire.
    Maybe the trees are closer together down in Hobbit Land. I have 740mm bars and that's about max.

    I use it all the time, does wonders for battery life. Really like the DIM setting.

  71. #271
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    @Cat
    Jim saw my post about my wiring issue and is going to send me an updated longer cable that I can solder in. I'm skeptical to wether it will be long enough but no point judging it before its in my hand.

    So onto the latest lens update.

    I revised my program to ell image the need to cut over the center optic so now it can remain in it virgin clarity. I also refined my spin all speed and federate to get a better finish on the gloves but it's still requiring me to spend a couple minutes to polish them up. I think this a good final product for this double diffuser. Next I make the single diffuser as well as the semi diffuser style that Cat suggested. I'm thinking I'll also send Jim one polished and one un-polished lens of each version to see is the difference is worth the time in polishing.

    Maybe I'll ship them out by the end of this week if all goes well.

  72. #272
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    forgot the new pics
    The upper one is the new one, notice the raised uncut center part.
    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-008a0b78-4757-47f4-b24b-c95b3b1c9e27_zpsg2pqczpg.jpg
    When held in hand the diffusers don't seem as clear as I'd like, I am a bit of a perfectionist after all. But when you place them over a book the lettering comes through clear so I guess that's good enough.
    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-1b7f2b87-7983-440f-ad02-942bf728e6f6_zpsu7axpzkz.jpg
    Here's one more fully assembled which can be hard to see any difference from the last version via photo.
    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-e6adf368-98fa-4809-af17-cbf222998111_zpsvcaiiz1h.jpg

  73. #273
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    Quote Originally Posted by RojoRacing53 View Post
    @Cat
    Jim saw my post about my wiring issue and is going to send me an updated longer cable that I can solder in. I'm skeptical to wether it will be long enough but no point judging it before its in my hand.
    I just wanted to jump in here and clarify the topic at hand regarding the cable length.

    When the cables were initially designed the lengths were chosen to allow use on a 750mm bar (this was a good average between the super wide and more narrow 700 or less bars).

    Bar setups are a personal thing and placement of the switch is going to depend on your setup and preference. For some that run their shifter/brake hard up against the grip and more inboard setup makes sense, however those with room between grip and shifter often use this vacant space for placement.

    After feedback late last year we increased the length of the cable to a point where it can be position just inboard of the grip (130mm grip) on a 780mm bar. I use 800mm bars on my AM bike and although I could place the switch beside the grip it's a wee bit of stretch, so mine sits hard up against the inboard side of my brake lever mount

    We have also received some feedback asking why the cable could not be made and extra 5cm longer to cater for all bars and those with shorter bars can just wind the cable around the bar to suit. This is an option however then we are bound to get feedback saying the cable is too long etc etc.

    So that brings me back to the design process and the fact we cannot make a solution that fits everyone perfectly (we do try!) - just most people. There will always be aspects of a product that someone does not like and these will differ from others' opinions.

    As always we do consider all feedback and most changes we have implemented over the past 3 or so years have been as a direct result of your feedback.

    Cheers

    Bruce and Vag
    Gloworm
    Gloworm Website

    '...it's more fun with the lites on!'

  74. #274
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    Quote Originally Posted by RojoRacing53 View Post
    forgot the new pics
    The upper one is the new one, notice the raised uncut center part.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    When held in hand the diffusers don't seem as clear as I'd like, I am a bit of a perfectionist after all. But when you place them over a book the lettering comes through clear so I guess that's good enough.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here's one more fully assembled which can be hard to see any difference from the last version via photo.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I'm loving the modifications you are doing here - it's quite coincidental, as Jim and I were discussing an option such as this during Interbike 2014.

    We'd love to see how this works out - even the option of the wide angle lens in the centre with 2 spots would work well in my opinion.

    Keep up the innovation!

    Bruce and Vag
    Gloworm
    Gloworm Website

    '...it's more fun with the lites on!'

  75. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gloworm Manufacture View Post
    I just wanted to jump in here and clarify the topic at hand regarding the cable length.

    When the cables were initially designed the lengths were chosen to allow use on a 750mm bar (this was a good average between the super wide and more narrow 700 or less bars).

    Bar setups are a personal thing and placement of the switch is going to depend on your setup and preference. For some that run their shifter/brake hard up against the grip and more inboard setup makes sense, however those with room between grip and shifter often use this vacant space for placement.
    I think this describes my scenario exactly. I run about 750 bars on all my trail/xc/hardtails. I run the shifters/brake clamp in board from the grip about an inch or so. The "vacant" area you describe between shifters/brake and grip would be perfect for the switch as I wouldn't have to lift my hand from the bar to reach the switch. Yet, with the length on the X2 v3.1 cable, there is NO WAY it could reach that far. As it is, at the longest possible location it's still 3 inches or so from the edge of my grip.

    Not complaining, I knew about the issue when I ordered the light, I just couldn't exercise any more patience and wanted to awesomeness of the X2 v3.1. I'd heard some talk about a possible retrofit, performed by Jim at Action? Or even available to the customer on a per-case basis. Is this a possibility? (I can live without it obviously, just checking since the subject came up)

    Thanks,
    Andy

  76. #276
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gloworm Manufacture View Post
    I just wanted to jump in here and clarify the topic at hand regarding the cable length.

    When the cables were initially designed the lengths were chosen to allow use on a 750mm bar (this was a good average between the super wide and more narrow 700 or less bars).

    Bar setups are a personal thing and placement of the switch is going to depend on your setup and preference. For some that run their shifter/brake hard up against the grip and more inboard setup makes sense, however those with room between grip and shifter often use this vacant space for placement.

    After feedback late last year we increased the length of the cable to a point where it can be position just inboard of the grip (130mm grip) on a 780mm bar. I use 800mm bars on my AM bike and although I could place the switch beside the grip it's a wee bit of stretch, so mine sits hard up against the inboard side of my brake lever mount

    We have also received some feedback asking why the cable could not be made and extra 5cm longer to cater for all bars and those with shorter bars can just wind the cable around the bar to suit. This is an option however then we are bound to get feedback saying the cable is too long etc etc.

    So that brings me back to the design process and the fact we cannot make a solution that fits everyone perfectly (we do try!) - just most people. There will always be aspects of a product that someone does not like and these will differ from others' opinions.

    As always we do consider all feedback and most changes we have implemented over the past 3 or so years have been as a direct result of your feedback.

    Cheers

    Bruce and Vag
    Gloworm
    I agree with where your coming from but at least with a cable that to long the complains would be about having to wrap a cable around a bar to take up the excess which is basically a aesthetics issue. Not everyone would be happy but at least everyone could get the final placement and functionality they need. With the cable on the shorter side if will work for some people but for the others they are SOL since there's no options to make a cable longer like there is to make one shorter. By the way my bars are only 720 so I find it hard to see how it was meant to work for 750s. I think the broken wire in my Y junction I was "B****ing" about in an earlier post is from me trying to get that button as close to the grip as possible and it couldn't take the constant strain when turning left.

    I know I can come off as sounding "B****y" with only complains when your just reading my text responses but that not the case I assure you. I think for 90% of riders who by these products it's a new thing that they get into for a short while and doesn't become a very regular thing unless they are commuting in which case you kind off just set the level and forget about it. What I'm getting at is for most the night riding thing is full of compromises so you probably won't get everyone complaining about a few small issues when the whole experience is foreign anyways. Then you the 10% how live for the after hours and want their setup to be as personalized and functional as possible. I myself am I revival at weekly night rides as well as a accomplished 24hr soloist so if I see some potential in a products I want to drag it out even if it means I have to ruin a couple things along the way.

    A couple ideas while I have your ear.

    Two separate exit ports out of the light head, so one hole for each cable. This would eliminate the Y section which has always seemed like a liability for weakening wires.

    Another would be a plug in port for the remote button like this Exposure Smart Port Remote Switch | Chain Reaction Cycles that way the remote could be replaced if damaged without needing to solder anything. You could even offer two different lengths but honestly I doubt any manufacture would bother with that and I couldn't blame them as long as they chose the longer of the two

    I do enjoy your products and I'll continue to try and get my perfect setup and share my finding with everyone I can. I'm not at this to make a dollar and just want to improve my equipment and help others who share my passion. You guys are welcome to replicate any of these experiments of mine to add to your product, I don't mind in the least if it makes things better. And if you guys are ever looking for a product tester with a honest, maybe even harsh opinion just let me know

    The 24 hour wolds solo championship will be coming state side in 2015 and I can't wait to shred the night with these light.

  77. #277
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    Here's another idea I came up with nearly a year ago but always forget to post a pic of. Some of us were having a hard time finding the remote button quickly enough to switch the level in the middle of a bumpy descent. Then if you could find the button you needed to press it exactly in the middle and not one of the 4 corners to activate it. For me it was mostly because I was having to reach my thumb awkwardly far to reach the button but because I that I had a great idea.

    Take some silicone and build up a little nipple on the center of the button. This way as long as to can find any part of the button chances are you'll still be pressing down the center portion when your panicking for light as your fast aproaching that surprise rock drop. I also did this to the X2 on my helmet that way I can practically palm the side of my helmet and get the button and quickly get my hand back to the bars.

    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-78a018c1-c2f4-43f4-b28f-ffb99069303f_zpsdywfjcxw.jpg

  78. #278
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    My bars are 700mm, grips are shortened to 100mm. According to the measurements remote switch should be OK placed close to the standard unshortened 130mm grips on 760mm bars. Normaly I mount it 200mm from the bar end like on the 2nd picture.
    What makes me more angry, I found again hair crack on the remote switch! For the same reason I returned brand new X1 headlamp for replace when I bought it in April this year.
    Note: The finger in the picture just hold the cable for taking the shot, it doesn't point to anything.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Gloworm XS are you getting one?-x2-handlebar-mount_01.jpg  

    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-x2-handlebar-mount_03.jpg  

    Gloworm XS are you getting one?-x2-handlebar-mount_04.jpg  


  79. #279
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    Its a cheap generic button you can get on ebay for like $4. Its one of the few way gloworm is keep the price of these lights from reaching into the $700 range. I'd be happy be happy with a $20 price increase if it got a button equal in quality to the rest of the light head. For now toss a dab of silicone on it like I pictures and dab a little on that crack and call it good. Not what you want to hear but it'll work and at night know one will see it anyways

  80. #280
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    Also you can replace just the cover of the button without any re-wiring if you insist. I'm sure Jim could source you just the cover and save you the headache of sending back the whole unit.

  81. #281
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    Is it possible to get just cover from any distributor or Gloworm directly???

  82. #282
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterG View Post
    Is it possible to get just cover from any distributor or Gloworm directly???
    PeterG,

    Send me your address and I'll drop one in the mail to you.
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
    www.action-led-lights.com

  83. #283
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    Thanks Jim, PM sent.

  84. #284
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    Hope not to be hijacking this thread, but I'm looking for a new light for using during the winter.
    Currently using a Magicshine, which for the money is ok, I guess.

    I've done lots of reading and looked at all the graphs and light outputs - and it seems people have their favourites, no matter what the numbers say. It would be easier if there was just an outright obvious "best".

    Anyway, I've sort of drifted towards the Gloworm and had almost decided on the x2 v3.1 when I happened upon this XS thread.
    Anyone care to help push my decision making process one way or the other?

    As a caveat, I will be using it in extreme cold for extended periods. One of the issues we encounter is the cable from the battery packs to the headlamps getting cold and becoming brittle.
    It should also be said, it's not for biking, but for using running sled dogs. so I'm wanting a decent spread of light, but with a good reach. My lead dogs are around 70' ahead of me and I need to be able to see far enough ahead of them to give commands.
    Lupines are very popular but pretty spendy by the time you buy an extra battery pack.

  85. #285
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    70' out plus at least another 30-50' farther is a bit of a stretch for most lights in my opinion. I guess it would come down to how "much" you expect to reach out there and how much detail you'll be wanting to see. If your already using a magicshine then I'll these will only be better but based on you request I'd not sure if these lights are enough. I guess you do have the benefit of the snow reflecting the light to it would seem much brighter then in our dirt forests.

    I've owned a lupine light before and as far as quality goes they are a step above everyone. Only problem is your paying double what they're worth for that extra step in quality and performance.

    I guess if your just moving along at a jogging pace you'll have plenty of time to make out the trail as you go with these lights but because of Hollywood when I envision sled dogs up to 70' out front I'm think full on "Iron Will" race pace :lol

  86. #286
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    Quote Originally Posted by gealachmor View Post
    Hope not to be hijacking this thread, but I'm looking for a new light for using during the winter.
    Currently using a Magicshine, which for the money is ok, I guess.

    I've done lots of reading and looked at all the graphs and light outputs - and it seems people have their favourites, no matter what the numbers say. It would be easier if there was just an outright obvious "best".

    Anyway, I've sort of drifted towards the Gloworm and had almost decided on the x2 v3.1 when I happened upon this XS thread.
    Anyone care to help push my decision making process one way or the other?

    As a caveat, I will be using it in extreme cold for extended periods. One of the issues we encounter is the cable from the battery packs to the headlamps getting cold and becoming brittle.
    It should also be said, it's not for biking, but for using running sled dogs. so I'm wanting a decent spread of light, but with a good reach. My lead dogs are around 70' ahead of me and I need to be able to see far enough ahead of them to give commands.
    Lupines are very popular but pretty spendy by the time you buy an extra battery pack.
    I've owned many different lights over the past six years, NiteFlux, MS, Gemini, Cygolite, NR (borrowed), Lupines. By far the lupines have been the best lights in quality, features and performance. They are IMO the stand above the rest light. They are also the only company that I have seen so far that uses special (soft) cables from their lamp heads to the battery's, and extension cables. I have read posts in the past from sled dog owners using Lupines and been completely happy with them in the extreme cold. As good as they are,,, you would need to take steps to protect the battery in some way from the wind and direct cold.

    Yes, very expensive but a Wilma with two 17.5mAh will give you a ton of light, the most range in the business, and runtime. What ever you choose get the largest capacity battery you can get as the cold will reduce battery performance,, or possibly more smaller battery's so as to keep the spares on your person if possible to keep them warm.

    Maybe another option is Scars hand built lights the (Amoeba's). If you speak to him he may be able custom build you a set up with large capacity battery's possibly with lots of extra insulation for less than the Lupine Wilma set up. Tell him exactly what you need for performance and he will be strait up with you on what he can, or cannot do. Mention your concern about cabling and see if he can find what you need.

    Performance wise, the GloWorm products are one of the best for sure as there are just a ton of testimonials from happy customers and great reviews. That been said I do believe they are also using the generic cables most company's use which will be much stiffer than the Lupines. Good Luck what ever your choice.

  87. #287
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    While the GW XS is my best light to date, the cable is stiff!! I just got the updated remote/ longer cable back from Jim great service by the way. It works much better now, my old remote was acting up in the cold now works great!!
    The Serfas TSL-2500 would be a great light , my 1500 from Serfas is my most reliable light and best made light I have. The TSL-2500 is fairly large, but for the sled application will work great.

  88. #288
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    gealachmor,

    I assume you'll be using this as a head lamp. I've sold to several mushers that have been happy with the X1. It has a focused beam with the super spot optic that has good reach. Over snow the rarely use more that half power. The new cables are suppose to be better (softer) so cold weather shouldn't be an issue. However other mushers have the entire light under their parka. (battery on their belt, wire running up their back to the headlight that's peaking out from under their hood) I'm not to sure about the new QR mount in extreme cold but I could include the older metal bracket and headstrap with one.
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
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  89. #289
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgw7000 View Post
    While the GW XS is my best light to date, the cable is stiff!! I just got the updated remote/ longer cable back from Jim great service by the way. It works much better now, my old remote was acting up in the cold now works great!!
    The Serfas TSL-2500 would be a great light , my 1500 from Serfas is my most reliable light and best made light I have. The TSL-2500 is fairly large, but for the sled application will work great.
    Did you replace the cable yourself or did you send your light back to Jim and have him do the soldering?

  90. #290
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    Thanks for the replies/info.
    RojoRacing - it's not exactly fast compared to the speeds you guys are hitting, for our distance team, we're happy with 9 mph for 40 or 50 mile legs. I have logged them at 21mph when they took off after a fox.

    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    gealachmor,

    I assume you'll be using this as a head lamp. I've sold to several mushers that have been happy with the X1. It has a focused beam with the super spot optic that has good reach. Over snow the rarely use more that half power. The new cables are suppose to be better (softer) so cold weather shouldn't be an issue. However other mushers have the entire light under their parka. (battery on their belt, wire running up their back to the headlight that's peaking out from under their hood) I'm not to sure about the new QR mount in extreme cold but I could include the older metal bracket and headstrap with one.
    Actually the plan with this new purchase is to use it attached to the handlebar of the sled, so it's always pointed straight ahead.
    The battery would be in the sled bag, that way I can insulate it and maybe even have a couple of those chemical "hot hand" pads in beside it.
    Agreed, most of us wear our headlamps as you describe, with the battery pack somewhere inside our clothing.

    I'll drop you an email with a couple further questions, if that's ok

  91. #291
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    I sent it in to Jim, I did not know if it was the light or the remote causing the problem. Quick turn-o-round time few days, the length is perfect now also for my 740 mm bars. Having someone like Jim that stands behind what he sells is another reason I buy Gloworm.

  92. #292
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    Quote Originally Posted by dgw7000 View Post
    I sent it in to Jim, I did not know if it was the light or the remote causing the problem. Quick turn-o-round time few days, the length is perfect now also for my 740 mm bars. Having someone like Jim that stands behind what he sells is another reason I buy Gloworm.
    Thanks for the reply. I'd assume if Jim is the soldering master then his skills far outweigh mine in that department. Maybe when I send him all these lenses to test he could find a moment to attach my new cable.

  93. #293
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    The mass production has begun, I should get 21 lenses out of this one sheet.

  94. #294
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    I would love to have one!! Are you selling them?

  95. #295
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    Are you charging about $1/hr for your machine time.
    I'm working on Gloworm to get a better wide angle lens in production (with a mold)
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
    www.action-led-lights.com

  96. #296
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    Not selling these as of now but I'll consider it once testing is done. I'm making 6 different models so we can find a most preferred lens that everyone wants. I figure we'll nail it down to 2 options.

    Option 1 lots of spread with decent throw

    Option 2 a little extra spread while retaining as much throw as possible.

    Honestly in hoping Jim will relay the results to Gloworm and have them sell the lenses because they can can do it for pennies compared to me. I'm sure it'll take time so if anyone wants one sooner keep an eye on this thread for developments.

  97. #297
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    I have a question for you jim.

    I recently bought a olympia lighthead and an xs complete pack and another 6800 gloworm battery to use with the gemini. And so far one battery pack seems to indicate the wrong amount of juice left in the pack, or maybe its a bad pack.

    what happens is this: on pack goes to red much faster than it should when using the lights. Today for example I was using the olympia and the xs both at 50% but the olympia pack indicated red and the xs was one step above it (green) even though it draws supposedly 50% more juice at that setting. But when i put the gloworm chargers in, the one that indicated red early on (even though it shouldn't have since the lighthead used less amps (gemini)) started indicating one green blob higher than the other one, so that seems about right.

    Also the 2 battery packs seems to have different blinking patterns when fully charged.

    Should I be worried? is this common?

    I'm gonna test these 2 packs for real runtime this weekend.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  98. #298
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    Quote Originally Posted by RojoRacing53 View Post
    The mass production has begun, I should get 21 lenses out of this one sheet.
    I would feed about 10-20 times faster and put the rpm on max, or 10-20k or so if possible, full blast on the cooling/cutting fluid. And use a 2 bladed tool, as short as possible. When feeding slow with plastics they simply melt. Its very high speed high rpm material type imo.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

  99. #299
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    That's all fine but my machine only goes to 2k RPMs so I'm rather limited on what I can do. It my be a CNC machine but its a conversational programmer(not G code) so I had to do all the programming on the machine pad and calculations in my head. We're not in business for mass production so I just use these machines for projects when they are needed. All the money in our shop comes from the sheet metal parts we break and form on roll forming mills.

  100. #300
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    Quote Originally Posted by RojoRacing53 View Post
    That's all fine but my machine only goes to 2k RPMs so I'm rather limited on what I can do. It my be a CNC machine but its a conversational programmer(not G code) so I had to do all the programming on the machine pad and calculations in my head. We're not in business for mass production so I just use these machines for projects when they are needed. All the money in our shop comes from the sheet metal parts we break and form on roll forming mills.
    You can still probably put it on 2k and then max feed, whatever it might be, and it will look just as good. use cooling.

    I used to put 20 kilowatts of spindle power into good steel, and we could feed at least 5 times as fast as that at maximum cutting depth without anything (expensive that is) breaking.

    I hate fanuc, iso, and g codes. The last machine was a heidenhein 6 axis (4 integrated) and we programmed everything in the machine, I love these programming systems. no need for computers anymore.

    any way good work! i hope you can make a few good alternative front lenses for the xs. since the supplied flood ones kinda suck.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.

    Quote Originally Posted by iheartbicycles View Post
    Specialized sucks ass.

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