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Gloworm XS are you getting one?

83K views 518 replies 81 participants last post by  Hakka 
#1 ·
I picked up a Gloworm X2 v2 Several weeks ago just in time for my last 24hr race and I was really impressed. I used it on the helmet and ran it on ether low or med for the single tracks and off for the climbs. I was able to get about 9hrs of life out of the one 4cell battery and never thought I needed more light.

On the bars I was borrowing a magicshine mj-856 which is probably got the best flood angle of any light ever but lacks a bit of throw. The mj-856 is a great bar light but there two things I think the XS would do better.

1. Remote switch: I don't understand why more manufacturers aren't adding this feature? Also hope the cable is long enough to reach my thumb.

2. Energy efficiency: with new advancement in emitter tech you get more light with less energy use so I can run a new light for twice as long with the same level of light as the old light using the same sized batteries.

Im already running dual spot lens in the X2 helmet light so I'm planning on running 3 floods in the XS.

Ive got a 12hr next weekend that runs into the night about 3-4 hrs so Im hoping Action LEDs get some in next week so I can test them out in what probably the last night race of the year.
 
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#64 ·
I am a little disappointed with the length if the remote as previously mentioned it could have been longer. I'm not sure it my unit can be retrofitted later or not in January.


Also, does anyone's charger led to red when charging? Mine doesn't and I'm thinking I have a bad charger. I will have to contact Action Led Lights tomorrow to confirm. This might ruin my night ride tomorrow :(
 
#66 ·
It does sound as though you have a faulty charger. Action will replace this without question.

Regarding the remote length, there will be no retrofit option unfortunately.

Cheers

Bruce
Gloworm NZ

I am a little disappointed with the length if the remote as previously mentioned it could have been longer. I'm not sure it my unit can be retrofitted later or not in January.

Also, does anyone's charger led to red when charging? Mine doesn't and I'm thinking I have a bad charger. I will have to contact Action Led Lights tomorrow to confirm. This might ruin my night ride tomorrow :(
 
#67 ·
With he charger plugged in and to battery connected it should be green, then connect a "used" battery and it should go solid red, once charged it'll go solid green again. You could always check the voltage with a meter. What does the battery fuel gauge say the batteries current charge is at?
Fair point. It's currently showing 80% on the gauge, and just wanted to top it off before my ride today. It's possible the gauge is off and is closer to 100%. I'll just keep monitoring it on the ride, if I end up going.
 
#70 ·
Fiddly remote

I suppose the remote is designed mainly for use with a helmet. I have an X2 V2 and was going to upgrade to XS but the remote design puts me off. My X2 is a super light head and beam but I ended up using a base of a magicshine lamp and a rubber band to try and keep the remote in place on the bars. I have noticed a couple of lights coming through with wireless remote and one with a plug in remote.
Xeccon Sogn 900 wireless control - YouTube
SMALL SUN T013 3 x CREE XM-L T6 900lm 4-Mode White Bicycle Headlamp - Black (4 x 18650) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme
 
#71 ·
Hey,

The remote was actually designed to use on bar to ensure your hands can stay put on the grip, or with minimal movement.

The actual design could be refined for use on the bar and we are working on a solution to make this an even more rock solid feature.

Additionally the length of the cable is to be increased for more adaptability.

A couple of ideas we are testing at present is securing the switch using an oring arrangement and a slightly curved base to the switch unit.

As usual, any ideas are welcome!

cheers

Bruce
Gloworm NZ

I suppose the remote is designed mainly for use with a helmet. I have an X2 V2 and was going to upgrade to XS but the remote design puts me off. My X2 is a super light head and beam but I ended up using a base of a magicshine lamp and a rubber band to try and keep the remote in place on the bars. I have noticed a couple of lights coming through with wireless remote and one with a plug in remote.
Xeccon Sogn 900 wireless control - YouTube
SMALL SUN T013 3 x CREE XM-L T6 900lm 4-Mode White Bicycle Headlamp - Black (4 x 18650) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme
 
#72 ·
It's good to hear you're working on a fix for the switch. I replaced the stock velcro with some 3m dual lock and it seems to be holding fairly well. While it's still not perfect because the actual engagement point between the pads consists of maybe 1-3 rows of dual-lock, it's certainly more solid than the stock velcro.
 
#74 ·
I too wish the remote switch wire were longer so I'd be able to mount it closer to the hoods of my cross bike but at least Gloworm has listened and is working on it. I have no regrets buying the XS. The light delivers a lot of light but what I really love about the XS is the output combined with the spread and throw! This one is a keeper and will be staying on my bars!
 
#80 ·
Hey varider

I love your passion and understand exactly where you are coming from.

To provide a bit of background, the cable length was specified for a 720mm bar (considered the average size at the time - about 18 months ago). It was designed to sit just inside the shifter mount so a little bit of movement was required to press the button.

Over the past 18 months average bar size has most likely increased in addition to the fact every rider will want to place the switch somewhere different.

We have just specified a new length for the switch that will have it 6cm (over 2 inches) longer than the current version. This means the total length from light to switch will be in excess of 25cm.

To retrofit a new cable to a light not as easy as plug and go, however we are looking at ways all the time of how to increase the versatility of the product which may include an optional remote or even wireless.

Thanks for your concern.

Bruce
Gloworm NZ
 
#81 ·
Hey varider

I love your passion and understand exactly where you are coming from.

To provide a bit of background, the cable length was specified for a 720mm bar (considered the average size at the time - about 18 months ago). It was designed to sit just inside the shifter mount so a little bit of movement was required to press the button.

Over the past 18 months average bar size has most likely increased in addition to the fact every rider will want to place the switch somewhere different.

We have just specified a new length for the switch that will have it 6cm (over 2 inches) longer than the current version. This means the total length from light to switch will be in excess of 25cm.

To retrofit a new cable to a light not as easy as plug and go, however we are looking at ways all the time of how to increase the versatility of the product which may include an optional remote or even wireless.

Thanks for your concern.

Bruce
Gloworm NZ
Wow. You guys take a lot of abuse over something that's impossible to please everyone. Ask 50 people how long they want the remote wire and you'd get 50 different answers. People get their panties in a bunch over this? No wonder our Congress can't agree on anything. I for one would not like a longer remote wire. I use my light only on the lid and the extra length would be a PITA. Just goes to show.

Cordless remote is the answer. One less thing for people to whine over.
 
#85 ·
Well...depends.... In theory something that is wireless is preferable. In practice in order to accommodate the transmitter/battery assembly a wireless remote has to be larger. The one used on the Xeccon Sogn 900 looks slightly bigger than a match box. Not only will it have a larger footprint on the bars but there may be issues getting it mounted in a spot where it won't interfere with other equipment ( or vice versa ) yet still be easily accessible. A lot depends on design. Also keep in mind there is going to be another battery to either charge or replace. All things considered, a wireless remote "might" be more trouble then it's worth. In comparison the Gloworm "wired remote" is roughly 20mm x 20mm x 7mm....which is quite small. I like small. Give me another 5-7cm of wire and I'm fine.

Now with all these things in perspective having a usable wireless remote for the helmet lamp ( that could be mounted on the bars yet not stick out like a sore thumb ) would be the sweetest thing.
 
#86 ·
Hi All,

Thanks for the responses here. Without such feedback the X2 would never be where it is today and the XS would probably not exist.

Over the past couple of years, we have put ourselves out there ready to take constructive criticism without opposition. While all feedback is listened to and taken seriously, some suggestions and observations will not be utilised as they are very personal and would not suit a product that is designed for the mass market.

However, most suggestions that we have received are carefully analysed and used (at least in part) in an attempt to improve the product and therefore your customer experience. Originally when the products were first designed, specifics were discussed in focus groups (of users - mtbers, adventurers, roadies) and sound decisions were made based on many facets.

We consider ourselves dynamic in responding to feedback, however we analyse feedback trends to ensure potential changes are being made for the majority of the potential market. Such moves must be carefully calculated from a marketing and manufacturing point of view.

We not only receive feedback from MTBR. We regularly receive other constructive criticism from media reviews, direct emails and face to face discussion - and yes it is hard to please everyone all of the time.

Gloworm products are backed up 100%. All someone needs to do if they are dissatisfied with the product is to contact the place where it was bought and a solution will be provided. If any problem you can also contact us directly (vaggelis@glowormlites.co.nz or Bruce@glowormlites.co.nz) and we will look at taking the appropriate steps through our distributors/retalers. We are fully dedicated to the customer experience and unconditionally improving our products every day.

Cheers

Vag and Bruce
Gloworm
 
#87 ·
Also bear in mind the fun that would ensue when you take a spill and the wireless remote goes m.i.a. in the brush or the battery dies somewhere along the trail. If it was me, it would probably happen miles from home when I shut the light off. For me, the best answer would be some type of modular connection and a few different cords to choose from at the users discretion. Normal, a couple inches shorter for the helmet, or a couple inches longer for wide bars. Even if it raises the price a few dollars, that would be a worthwhile feature for many imo
 
#90 ·
HR monitors seems to deal just fine with this as well as any bluetooth devices. Off course it might make the device a little more complicated and/or expensive. A remote should be paired with the associated light. Anybody has experience with Lupine remotes? They seem to have it down pretty well (the remote does not appear to be very big).
 
#89 ·
I ran the XS for about 4 hrs of MTBing last Thursday. Its a mix of exposed fire roads and narrow canyon single tracks with a decent amount of trees and a few upper ridge routes. I like my bar light to have a very wide beam so I was running my own diffuser lens so I can't comment on the beam pattern but I will tell you it is noticeably brighter then my X2 v3. I ended up running my old 5800 battery that came with the XS v2 because the cable is a few inches longer so I can turn my wheel to 90degs left and right without the tugging on the cable to hard. I always switch the setting to high for a few of the gnarliest descents then back to low for the climbs. If there's a gradual rolling single track then ill run it on medium. After 4hrs on the trail and 3-1/2hrs of rolling time the XS flashed quick three or four time letting me know the 5800 battery was low but I only had one last 4 min descent left in the ride.

Not to beat a dead horse but I was having some minor issues with the remote button. Most of this may be just because I'm having to scoot my hand over from where it should to to reach the button.

The vague button click can be a challenge to fell through full finger gloves when in a hurry, I'm only in a hurry because I just started my rocky descent and I'm frantically trying to increase the light output but every time I try I get kicked in the ass because I'm can't reach the brake. In my panic my accidentally pressed the button twice to fast and entered the programming mode so I just gave up and finished the trail slowly with the light on low.
I think if we could get a more solid click from the button it would make it easier to use. I know some will say I should just adjust my light level before descending and yes I normally do but sometimes you forget till your already dropping off the first rock and realize you can't see because your light setting is to low. I referencing the button to my old lupine betty where it had a good solid button click and I never had an issue using it mid rock garden.

The other thing which has also been mentioned before is the crappy mounting of the button via simple Velcro, again probably wouldn't be an issue if I wasn't having to awkwardly reach my thumb over to feel for the button. Because the button is flat and the bar is round when you press a little low or high of center the button will tip causing even more vagueness. I found lightly wrapping a single loop of electrical tape around the button to further stabilize the button to the bar works ok but not perfect. You can't wrap the tape as tight as you'd like for stabilization because if you do then the tape with not allow the button to return after you press it.

I've never used one before but the "exposure light" remote button looks like a simple and effective option. It has a simple Velcro attachment strap but the base is concave to properly sit on the bars. I'm considering buying this switch and just spicing the wires to get extra length and a more solid mount but for $50 I'll wait a bit longer and see if gloworm has in store with its late January improvements.

I'm planning to ride from 9pm tomorrow evening till about sunrise on new years day so I'll be bring multiple batteries and trying to stretch the burn time as long as I can.

The light is a great light it just has a few small quirks in its layout that I wish were better suited for a handlebar light. Meanwhile the XSv3.1 is absolutely awesome on the helmet and with the new proper user interface program I can think of anything I'd want to change on it, so there I'm not totally negative :)
 
#93 ·
....Not to beat a dead horse but I was having some minor issues with the remote button. Most of this may be just because I'm having to scoot my hand over from where it should to to reach the button.

...The vague button click can be a challenge to fell through full finger gloves when in a hurry, I'm only in a hurry because I just started my rocky descent and I'm frantically trying to increase the light output but every time I try I get kicked in the ass because I'm can't reach the brake. mounting of the button via simple Velcro, again probably wouldn't be an issue if I wasn't having to awkwardly reach my thumb over to feel for the button. Because the button is flat and the bar is round when you press a little low or high of center the button will tip causing even more vagueness. I found lightly wrapping a single loop of electrical tape around the button to further stabilize the button to the bar works ok but not perfect. You can't wrap the tape as tight as you'd like for stabilization because if you do then the tape with not allow the button to return after you press it.
I can relate. Never had a problem with the older X2 but as you mentioned sometimes changing modes in tough terrain can be a challenge. Same thing happens when changing gears though. Do it at the wrong time and it doesn't work so great. As long as the remote is close enough to your thumb it usually isn't a problem. Never had any issues myself with mode changes while wearing full finger gloves. All this depends on your remote mounting solution though. With the shorter remote wires your options are limited.
 
#95 ·
Interesting idea for remote switch

Just had a little brain storm just before hitting the sack. Thought I'd pass it on in case I forget it tomorrow. ;)

For those of us with a roll of the sticky reflective 3M tape; Cut some small pieces and apply it to the outer edges of the Gloworm remote switch. I haven't try it yet but I figure it might help me spot the remote when bouncing over rough terrain. Of course it won't help unless you're using a helmet light though. :thumbsup:
 
#99 ·
Just had a little brain storm just before hitting the sack. Thought I'd pass it on in case I forget it tomorrow. ;)

For those of us with a roll of the sticky reflective 3M tape; Cut some small pieces and apply it to the outer edges of the Gloworm remote switch. I haven't try it yet but I figure it might help me spot the remote when bouncing over rough terrain. Of course it won't help unless you're using a helmet light though. :thumbsup:
It's too bad they don't use a lighted external switch like Lupines do. On another note, I get confused when people are calling the Gloworm switches remote when I call it external because remote sounds like it would be something wireless. :confused: Oh well, Happy New Year!:band:
 
#97 ·
For the same reason you might want to change gears while going too slow...sometimes it just happens

...typical scenario; You've just come down a hill will all lights on full. Suddenly you find yourself climbing over a really tough slow uphill loaded with roots, rocks and ruts. Your poking along again and all of your lights are over-heating and wasting output. Usually really easy to change the bar lamp ( with remote ) but the helmet lamp, that's sometimes tricky.
 
#100 ·
After having a look through feedback of other remote (extension) switches for other lights it seems that the silicon O-ring is the preferred fitting arrangement. Riders also state that they require a button that gives tactile feedback when pressed and can be used with winter gloves. There are other complaints of too short wiring so not unique to Gloworm. If a plug-in remote switch was used, there would have to be by default a switch on the light body which may not be desirable. Some switches have two buttons...one for power on/off and the other for modes. The popular magic shine type of remote has LED colour indicators that give a rough idea of the charged stated of the battery which is a lot more visible when riding than being on the battery (which is mostly tucked out of sight...and mine just seems to stay green!!). A wireless remote is a further step that requires an additional battery and if lost in a fall etc means that the light will not have a control function...unless there is a switch on the lamp body...hmm.
 
#101 · (Edited)
Just finished riding all night through New Years 9hrs moving time 75 miles and 2.4 vertical miles of ascent. I ran the XS on the bars with a more secure dual lock Velcro mount and a custom single lens diffuser over the center led. I was trying to conserve battery life because of the length of the ride so I used 10%(special mode)for fire road climbs 30% for flat single tracks and technical climbs, 60% for the good stuff. I only used 100% at the very end on my hardest descent but really 60% would have been just fine for my fast but relaxed pace. I was able to run all 9hrs on one 5800 gloworm battery but unfortunately it was the battery with the bad fuel gauge then I'm returning so I have no idea how much it has left. The performance of the XS as far as tossing light down the trail is everything I could have hoped for and more. I ran my recently received X2v3.1 on the helmet with dual spot lenses and it was fantastic. I let my riding partner use my X2v2 on his bars with one of my diffuser lenses over only one of the LEDs and he's totally sold on the light. He want to get a gloworm of his own as soon as I gets the needed funds, I'll probably let him borrow mine till he gets his own.

Maybe gloworm should hire me as a demo rep and let me take unsuspecting riders on epic all night adventures using gloworm lights to promote the product :)

Here's what our little ride last night and this morning looked like https://www.strava.com/activities/103184610
 
#105 ·
Went out for my first ride with the XS mounted on downside of bars, no helmet light this time. The light is much brighter and wider spread than SolorStorm x3. I had the flood lens in center that's the way it come's shipped. This makes a great bar light, the whole trail is lit-up. My switch is also cracked in the same place as posted, still works but I like the feel of the SolorStorm switch way better more pronounced click and higher raised button. The XS with gloves on is kind of numb feeling. Switch should be held on with rubber-band instead of velcro way easier to adjust !! I also feel another switch should be on light itself. Serfas does this with their new true 1000 light, the remote plugs in to the back of head. Much better design, also has a port on battery for charging phone. Nice !!
But I do love this light and it's a keeper !!
 
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