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  1. #1
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    Gloworm X2 v3 ( XM-L2) Who's In?

    FYI: Action LED now has the new Version 3 edition of the Gloworm X2 on their website. I'm in.. Can't wait to get my hands on the little gem. My expectations are very high. I sure hope the Gloworm people don't let me down. These aren't inexpensive.

    I have a question for Jim ( Action LED ) or anyone else who might know: I ordered the lamp head only. I thought I remember reading somewhere ( on MTBR ) that the new units were going to include the new ( solid alloy ) quick release/cam lock bar mounts. I know I'm getting a mount but not sure if it's the same O-ring mount or cam lock type mount?

  2. #2
    ww.glowormlites.co.nz
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    Hey Cat, what you probably saw was our display at Interbike. We used the QR mount for the show however the X2 will be delivered with the standard o-ring mount. The XS comes standard with the QR mount.

    Cheers!

    Bruce
    Gloworm NZ
    Gloworm Website

    '...it's more fun with the lites on!'

  3. #3
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    I would be on this like white on rice, but building a carbon frame 650B HT bike from the ground up so I'll have to hold off for now.

    Can't wait for your review when it arrives.
    "By Your Command"

  4. #4
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    It looks like its going to sell like hotcakes.

  5. #5
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    Here's the mount Cat
    Action-LED-Lights ? Gloworm Quick Release Mount

    $180 for the light head only. Not cheap.
    Here's the product link
    Action-LED-Lights ? GLOWORM X2 v3 1500 lumen Bike Light

    I just ordered something from action led yesterday. I ordered at around 2:15 and by 4:30 it was already shipped! You can't get better than that.

  6. #6
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    Anyone think the X1 V1 is a better value than the X1 V2? I plan to eventually get a V2 V3 as well.

  7. #7
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    I am weak - I just purchased both the X2 v3 and the X1 v2 - light heads only, plus the quick release mount for the X2. I have the X2 v2 and have been very pleased with it. I think these lights are reasonably priced based on the beam quality, small size, weight, mounting options and overall quality.

  8. #8
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    how does the new X2 compare to the Gemini Olympia?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gloworm Manufacture View Post
    Hey Cat, what you probably saw was our display at Interbike. We used the QR mount for the show however the X2 will be delivered with the standard o-ring mount. The XS comes standard with the QR mount.

    Cheers!

    Bruce
    Gloworm NZ
    Doah!

    Name:  Grumpy-Cat.jpg
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Size:  4.3 KB Actually, the standard O-ring mount works fine.

    Bruce, I'm a little confused about what optics are coming with the X2. Can you shed a little light on this issue? If the standard set up is one flood, one spot...how long before we can order another optic of our choice? I use a spot, spot in my current set-up and thought I might like to continue with that arrangement. Still I look forward to seeing how well the new optic system you have works. Could be I might be completely happy with whatever comes out of the box. My friend above though, is much harder to please.

  10. #10
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    Just bought a x2 v3 for a new helmet light.

  11. #11
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    It's Here!: Initial observations

    Whoa Nelly! Got this thing fast! No one's going to accuse Jim at Action LED of being slow to ship!

    Strange as it is I was not impressed when I first turned it on. This goes to show how initial impressions can be totally off base when you are just using your eyes ( inside a house ). Now please continue reading....

    After shining the lamp around in my home a bit I pulled my other X2 (U2, spot-flood ) off my bike to compare the two. At first I shook my head because I couldn't tell much difference. To get a more accurate read out I put up the lux meter ( ~4-5 meters distance ) to get a lux
    measurement....Holy Smokes!...New version X2 is getting another 200 lux!

    Compared to my U2 version this is about a 42% increase in output Out the Front ( OTF ) when in it's highest mode. Keep in mind this is lux not lumen. The lux meter is measuring the intensity at the most brightest point of the beam pattern. This explains why I couldn't tell much difference inside the house. Most of the extra output is going to be "forward throwing". For the human eye to see the difference you need DISTANCE to get the full effect. Not gonna happen inside the house.

    Well, it looks like the Gloworm people have worked some voodoo magic here. With the higher bin XM-L2's and newer refined optics this lamp should totally rock once it hits the trails. ( lamp comes standard with one flood and one spot optic )

    Can't wait to see what the added output looks like on the trails. Unfortunately in my case that's not going to happen anytime soon. Where I live we've entered what I like to call "The Fall Mini-Monsoon" season. It's been raining constantly for about three days and looks like it might continue for at least another couple days. Trails will not be ride worthy anytime soon.

    On a brighter note the new mode menu set-up is a real winner. Changing between the two factory programs is a breeze. One push starts the Trail Programme or two quick pushes starts the Commuter Programme, it's as simple as that. Customizing each of the light levels is relatively simple once you get the hang of it. I've already customized the "Commuter Programme" to be more of a "Race Programme". On the other "Trail Programme" I'm going to dim the mid-level down just a notch or two and then I'll be set.

    Now all I need is for the rain to stop and for the trails to dry up a bit so I can enjoy my new toys. ( *Sigh* ) The "Race people" are going to love these. With the increased efficiency of the optic/LED set-up I have no doubt that when used on the lower outputs there is going to be a very noticeable difference in the run time of whatever battery set-up you choose to use. Added run time is always a nice thing to have.

    ( *Note: to whom it may concern. I have no official proprietary relationship with Gloworm or the people who sell their products. I bought the lamp from Action LED at the listed price with my own money. )

  12. #12
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    The new gloworm looks sweet but i couldn't justify the cost when two 2013 olympia's cost less than one V3. Can't wait for a good review on the v3. Maybe I'll pull the trigger in a few months.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gharddog03 View Post
    The new gloworm looks sweet but i couldn't justify the cost when two 2013 olympia's cost less than one V3. Can't wait for a good review on the v3. Maybe I'll pull the trigger in a few months.
    Well....sounds like a good deal. May I ask who the seller was?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Well....sounds like a good deal. May I ask who the seller was?
    Same. Action. Only place I deal with.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gharddog03 View Post
    The new gloworm looks sweet but i couldn't justify the cost when two 2013 olympia's cost less than one V3. Can't wait for a good review on the v3. Maybe I'll pull the trigger in a few months.
    I just bought 2x 2013 Olympias for the bar to pair with a v3 on the helmet. I'm selling my t6 xera and olympia to my riding buddy and this closeout sale are helping to justify the expense. There are some AWESOME deals at ACTION LED right now. Use the code CLOSEOUT13 for an extra 10% off already discounted 2013 gloworm and gemini stuff.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekbob View Post
    I just bought 2x 2013 Olympias for the bar to pair with a v3 on the helmet. I'm selling my t6 xera and olympia to my riding buddy and this closeout sale are helping to justify the expense. There are some AWESOME deals at ACTION LED right now. Use the code CLOSEOUT13 for an extra 10% off already discounted 2013 gloworm and gemini stuff.
    Indeed. You have a killer set up. I'm going to run 2 Olympia's and one duo.

  17. #17
    Action LED Lights
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gharddog03 View Post
    The new gloworm looks sweet but i couldn't justify the cost when two 2013 olympia's cost less than one V3. Can't wait for a good review on the v3. Maybe I'll pull the trigger in a few months.
    That was a good deal. Unfortunately the price on the light head was a typo. I'll honor the price the lucky few got but there a little more now. The sets came down a little.
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
    www.action-led-lights.com

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gharddog03 View Post
    Indeed. You have a killer set up. I'm going to run 2 Olympia's and one duo.
    Thanks, you have a sweet setup as well. Your lumens/dollar ratio is great especially considering you're getting gemini quality and programming options.

  19. #19
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    Minor problem with new X-2

    TonightI decided to try to take the new X2 out on the paved trails behind my home. While setting up the lamp I ran into a couple problems. It seems the new remote wire is about an inch shorter than the previous editions. Depending on your handlebar length ( mine are quite long ) this could be a major issue. I find I now have to use the provided Velcro block ( with sticky on back ) rather than the previous strip of Velcro I was using. Unfortunately since the bars are round ( and the back of the remote isn't ) this results in a rather unstable platform to mount the remote.

    Since the wire is too short I'm going to have to mount the remote just under my Rapidfire shifter display. That means I'm going to have to stretch my thumb a bit further if I need to change modes. If I can't deal with this I'll have to return the light. I complained years ago that the previous editions were just barely long enough. I'm not happy that they decided to shorten the wire. With my hand on the brake lever my thumb now BARELY reaches the button. Jeez, makes no sense to me to scrimp on 3 cm worth of wire. Total buzz kill.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    TonightI decided to try to take the new X2 out on the paved trails behind my home. While setting up the lamp I ran into a couple problems. It seems the new remote wire is about an inch shorter than the previous editions. Depending on your handlebar length ( mine are quite long ) this could be a major issue. I find I now have to use the provided Velcro block ( with sticky on back ) rather than the previous strip of Velcro I was using. Unfortunately since the bars are round ( and the back of the remote isn't ) this results in a rather unstable platform to mount the remote.

    Since the wire is too short I'm going to have to mount the remote just under my Rapidfire shifter display. That means I'm going to have to stretch my thumb a bit further if I need to change modes. If I can't deal with this I'll have to return the light. I complained years ago that the previous editions were just barely long enough. I'm not happy that they decided to shorten the wire. With my hand on the brake lever my thumb now BARELY reaches the button. Jeez, makes no sense to me to scrimp on 3 cm worth of wire. Total buzz kill.
    How was the throw/flood. Better than previous version? Any other issues other than the wire length?

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gharddog03 View Post
    How was the throw/flood. Better than previous version? Any other issues other than the wire length?
    I did a short ride on the paved trails behind my home. From what I can tell ( with trails still wet ) there is definitely more throw on the highest output level. That's the good part.

    Now the bad part; There is a noticeable delay when pushing the button to change modes compared to the original version. I believe this is due to the new programmable menu. Not a big issue but coupled with the difficulty of trying to reach the button with the shortened wire there is a moment of doubt on whether or not you have successfully engaged the button ( about a 0.5 sec delay ). This delay also effects how you turn the lamp on when first turned on. Once again not a big issue but certainly noticeable. Occasionally when you try to turn the lamp on ( with one push ) nothing happens and you have to try again. Not unusual for it to take 2-3 tries to get the lamp to turn on.

    I am seriously considering returning the lamp. While I like the extra output I'm not sure I can accept the operational limitations of the button assembly and the UI. When I press a button I need to see something happen, FAST. This is even more important when you have your hand stretched out trying to hit a small button as you navigate over rough terrain. I figure if I return the lamp perhaps they will correct the shortened remote wire with the later productions. We will see.

    ( *Note; I own three previous versions of the Gloworm X2. All of those versions had no operational issues.

    Would be super nice if the Gloworm people would offer to provide a replacement lamp with a longer wire.

  22. #22
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    Thank you Cat.

  23. #23
    ww.glowormlites.co.nz
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    Gloworm X2 v3 ( XM-L2) Who's In?

    Cat, thanks for the feedback.

    Will definitely look into the length of the switch as this should not have changed from the first version to now.

    Regarding the UI, when the button is pressed the light will change momentarily after the button is pressed. This was tested when we were prototyped the product with a few riders and they did not find it an issue, however they had not been able to compare it to previous versions. Everyone is different I guess?

    In reference to the starting sequence, to access the first default programme hold the button for a couple seconds then release. To start in the second, double click.

    We are constantly assessing our changes to develop the best product we can.

    Any feedback is great regarding the UI and functionality and as you know we take it seriously and make adjustments accordingly.

    Cheers

    Bruce
    Gloworm NZ


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
    Gloworm Website

    '...it's more fun with the lites on!'

  24. #24
    Action LED Lights
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    Cat, I pull a V2 and V3 and compared the wire length to the button and they were identical.
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
    www.action-led-lights.com

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gloworm Manufacture View Post
    Cat, thanks for the feedback.

    Will definitely look into the length of the switch as this should not have changed from the first version to now.

    Regarding the UI, when the button is pressed the light will change momentarily after the button is pressed. This was tested when we were prototyped the product with a few riders and they did not find it an issue, however they had not been able to compare it to previous versions. Everyone is different I guess?

    In reference to the starting sequence, to access the first default programme hold the button for a couple seconds then release. To start in the second, double click.


    We are constantly assessing our changes to develop the best product we can.

    Any feedback is great regarding the UI and functionality and as you know we take it seriously and make adjustments accordingly.

    Cheers

    Bruce
    Gloworm NZ


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
    When I am standing next to the bike and working the button I don't seem to have so much of an issue with failed pushes. On the bike is a different matter as I am try to push the button (now) at a much harder angle. I think what is happening is that the button is now mounted directly to the handlebar and the handlebar is curved more than where I use to have it. When I push the button it rocks slightly. This could be the real problem. Once again, likely the issue is exacerbated by me trying to contact the button at a less than straight down angle. I might be able to firm up the mounting but I'm still going to have to really do a "stretch" with my thumb to try to hit the button when on the bike.

    Perhaps I just got one with a shorter wire. Things like this happen. Mine has a wire that is about 173mm long ( measured from where it exits the lamp to where it enters the button...not including the button ). My previous editions are about 203mm long. Like I said before, even those I could have wished for another cm or two.

    This isn't a problem on my bikes with shorter handle-bars. Both my ( flat-bar ) road set-up and my older cross-country mtn bike have no issue. The bike I ride most for mountain biking has riser bars and are much wider than standard flat handle-bars. I find the wider bars give me more control for the rough trails I sometimes ride.. These bars were standard equipment when I bought the bike.

    I need about another 3-4cm on the new version to be able to mount the button where I mounted the others. With the previous editions I could mount the button right over the spot where my shifter levers are. As such I never had a problem making a mode change while on the fly. Now it looks like that is going to change and that is something I don't think I will like.

  26. #26
    Norđwegr
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    I got the X2 V3 about a week ago and so far it's been great, I really like the size of the led housing.

    However, I could have bought about 5 China lights for the same price with double the amount of leds. What's the most cost effective in the long run I'm not sure about yet.

  27. #27
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    Update on wire length issue and Powering on issue

    I got playing around with the wire and stretched it slightly by warming and rubbing it gently. I think I managed to get a couple more mm out of it. Not much more but it was enough to get the button to center on my Rapidfire clamp.
    Now as long as it stays in place there I think I might be fine.

    The "powering on' issue still exist. I tried practicing with it for almost half an hour. The good news is I always get it to come on ( although it might take a couple tries ). Once on it works flawlessly. No problems changing modes or turning off. As I mentioned before there is small delay when changing modes but the more I play with it the less important that issue seems. Now that the button is more in reach it works better. ( **See Below )

    Tomorrow when I get off work I might try another ride so I can check out how the new position is going to work. Hopefully trails will be dryer.

    (**Update; Okay, it seems it you hold the button down for about three seconds ( and then let go ) the first programme comes on. Count to three and it seems to work most of the time. With the previous X2 you just had to press the switch and it came on.

  28. #28
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    Why not just supply Cat with a new light with a longer remote cord? Many people run wide bars, including me, and the length of the remote shouldn't be a limiting factor.

  29. #29
    Action LED Lights
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    Quote Originally Posted by varider View Post
    Why not just supply Cat with a new light with a longer remote cord? Many people run wide bars, including me, and the length of the remote shouldn't be a limiting factor.
    Perhaps a little longer would be ok but having extra wire can be a pain if you don't need it.
    I might consider a customization service to make the switch wire length what ever you want it. Recumbent's sometimes want to put the light by their feet. Double heat-shrink splices to keep them well sealed. Maybe $10?? If anyone is interested I'll look for some appropriate wire.
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
    www.action-led-lights.com

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    Perhaps a little longer would be ok but having extra wire can be a pain if you don't need it.
    Easy enough to put a turn of wire around the bars to use extra length.

  31. #31
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    I'm missing the point of this thread. What is so spectacular about this light, which is more expensive than a Dinotte (made in USA) 1500 lumen light?

  32. #32
    Norđwegr
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    Quote Originally Posted by canuckjgc View Post
    I'm missing the point of this thread. What is so spectacular about this light, which is more expensive than a Dinotte (made in USA) 1500 lumen light?
    Descendants of Gandalf made it.

    Gloworm X2 v3 ( XM-L2) Who's In?-tumblr_m6xl0ychzi1ry7xj3o1_1280.jpg

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by canuckjgc View Post
    I'm missing the point of this thread. What is so spectacular about this light, which is more expensive than a Dinotte (made in USA) 1500 lumen light?
    For one the Gloworm people have made themselves available in this forum. They developed a light and asked for our input and it seems some of it made it into the final product.

    This light is expensive but its a nice, well thought out package that is very powerful and versatile. It's mounting options are the best IMO. It's one of the few mtb lights that can be used for hiking and camping w/o being too bright and large.

    Gloworm also beat everyone except MagicShine to the market with the XML2.

    TBH I'm not even familiar with what Dionette has at the same price point. One thing I don't like about Dionette is the battery connector. I go Dionette and all of my batteries are useless.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekbob View Post
    One thing I don't like about Dionette is the battery connector. I go Dionette and all of my batteries are useless.
    Agreed. Hear nothing but good things about dinotte but the battery connector is a deal breaker for me. But the dinotte 3xml and 400 daytime look sweet.

  35. #35
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    For a light made in China, it is very expensive indeed.

  36. #36
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    A lot of folks, like me, have Magicshine-style battery packs that work with various light heads. I will only buy lights that interface with those battery packs. If Dinotte used that connector and sold the light head separately, I'd likely pick up an XML-3. It is a good value.

  37. #37
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    Just read a review that mentioned one can buy the XML-3 light head separately. Nice.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TCW View Post
    A lot of folks, like me, have Magicshine-style battery packs that work with various light heads. I will only buy lights that interface with those battery packs. If Dinotte used that connector and sold the light head separately, I'd likely pick up an XML-3. It is a good value.
    Yup, I'm in the same boat. Since a majority of the lights use 2S (2 in series) battery packs, I don't see any reason to have different connectors.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by canuckjgc View Post
    I'm missing the point of this thread. What is so spectacular about this light, which is more expensive than a Dinotte (made in USA) 1500 lumen light?
    The Point? The point is this is just a new product review. There are more expensive lights, lights about the same price and of course less expensive lights that are cheaper. The Gloworm attracts a lot of attention because it is at a medium price point and offers features not offered by very many light systems. Sadly they are not under $200 anymore but likely the price will drop as we approach Christmas.

    Ii is up to the reader to decide what kind of lamp he/she wishes to buy and what features they want in a lamp to mount to their bike or helmet.

    I've been using the Gloworm lights since their inception ( about two years ago ). Although I review different kind of lights my personal choice for the bars continues to be a Gloworm X2. I love having a lamp with small form factor on the bars. I love the mounting options. I LOVE remotes. I love that it's brighter than most 2 x XM-L lamps. Sure you can buy something less expensive. No one will argue that fact.

    Seems I now have the new version better dialed in. Jury is still out on that though. I can't wait to have a chance to try it on some dirt trails. I work nights so I have to wait till the weekend and hope the weather stays dry.

  40. #40
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    Received my X1-v2 and X2-v3 lightheads today - both appear to be excellent lights. I have owned all three of the X2 versions and have been pleased. The X1 really blows me away at how small this lighthead is and the throw it puts out. This has to be the closest thing to the perfect helmet light, and I have tried out plenty over the years.

    It will be hard to beat the beam quality in this small of a lighthead that the X2 and X1 offer. It is not always about the lumens / brightness a light puts out, but how well it distributes the beam pattern that can really make a difference. These lights definitely standout in that category plus have excellent mounting options.

  41. #41
    ww.glowormlites.co.nz
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    Hi All

    I just thought I'd jump in here and give a bit of background into the manufacturing and development processes of Gloworm and why they are what they are.

    Gloworm Performance Products Ltd, is a NZ company and can be found on the NZ company register. The directors are Bruce (NZ) and Vag (Greece).

    Each Gloworm is designed and engineered in NZ by myself (Bruce) and two contracted NZ Engineers (Mechanical/Plastics and Electronics). We only use top of the line electronic components that we source through multiple locations.

    If you open a Gloworm and compare it's 'guts' to another light that originates from China you will notice the size difference of the components. The components within a Gloworm are all very small and the circuit board is custom printed to match the housing, this small size and customisation equals electronic efficiency (All Gloworm Lights exceed 93% effciency) and higher cost. We also only use named brands for electronic parts. You will also see in the X1 we have combined the LED and other electronic components onto the same circuit board, this process requires accurate engineering and low tolerances to ensure adequate heat sinking and steady operation.

    As we only produce in relatively small batches compared to larger companies (Nite Rider, Magicshine etc) and Chinese light manufacturers we do not get the price breaks that others can access. This is especially noticeable with li-ion battery prices.

    We only use high quality Panasonic battery cells, which are arguably the most expensive but highest quality on the market. This is compared to lower priced cells used by most chinese light manufacturers. Using higher quality cells with an approved charger equals peace of mind when you are charging your battery pack.

    The battery pack utilises a customised waterproof mold, that also includes a fuel gauge indicator - not common on most lights.

    The housings are all CNC machined. The non-circular designs (X2/XS) require the use of a 3-Axis CNC machine. This process alone is time intensive and costs significantly more than a light that has been manufactured using an extrusion process or been made on a lathe.

    The assembly process is completed by hand in our facility under the management of Vag (who most of you know). We source our components/parts from appx 25 different suppliers who are selected for their professional setup, management practices and of course quality of product. As the product develops we assess our suppliers and ensure we are getting the highest quality.

    One of the benefits of our assembly process is our ability to react to changes in the market, technology and customer demands. An example of this is our new mount that can be used with GoPro and our prompt use of XML-2 when they became commercially available.

    It must also be noted that we are using XML-2 U2 bin, where most others will be using the T6 bin due to its more frequent availability.

    So as you can see a lot goes into these products and the costs are definitely not low and comparable to other lights that come out of china. Also one must remember that some of the best bikes and componentry in the world originates from the east.

    Please feel free to fire back any questions you may have

    Cheers

    Bruce
    Gloworm NZ
    Gloworm Website

    '...it's more fun with the lites on!'

  42. #42
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    Cat thanks for bringing up the Cord length issue. I'm going to measure my X2 V2 at home. I've always felt the cord was a bit short as I can't really get the remote far enough out on my bars. (I ride 750mm wide bars) This also plays into the length of the cord (after the Y split) that goes to the battery. I can just get the battery connected, and with the remote at it's farthest length - If my bars are spun far enough in one direction, it will want to pull the battery connection apart. I've always thought that's 'just the way it is' but now I question if the cord is simply too short in the first place. Without measuring I can say my setup would benefit from a slightly longer cord at both the remote and battery connector. Maybe just 10-15mm would be ideal.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gharddog03 View Post
    Agreed. Hear nothing but good things about dinotte but the battery connector is a deal breaker for me. But the dinotte 3xml and 400 daytime look sweet.

    Has Dinotte changed their connector in the past few years? When I ran the original Magicshine and Dinotte 400R, all that needed was the shortening of the rim of the female connector with a razor knife.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by pigmode View Post
    Has Dinotte changed their connector in the past few years? When I ran the original Magicshine and Dinotte 400R, all that needed was the shortening of the rim of the female connector with a razor knife.
    Unpacking the DiNotte XML3 and 400R (Quick Release) - YouTube

  45. #45
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    Cord issue continued

    Quote Originally Posted by bad andy View Post
    Cat thanks for bringing up the Cord length issue. I'm going to measure my X2 V2 at home. I've always felt the cord was a bit short as I can't really get the remote far enough out on my bars. (I ride 750mm wide bars) This also plays into the length of the cord (after the Y split) that goes to the battery. I can just get the battery connected, and with the remote at it's farthest length - If my bars are spun far enough in one direction, it will want to pull the battery connection apart. I've always thought that's 'just the way it is' but now I question if the cord is simply too short in the first place. Without measuring I can say my setup would benefit from a slightly longer cord at both the remote and battery connector. Maybe just 10-15mm would be ideal.
    Thanks bad andy; Glad to hear I'm not the only one who has experienced the issue. If you check the original Gloworm X2 Thread I made mention of the remote length issue at post #237 That was back in early 2012. Gloworm than responded at that time and said the length would be 19cm. Turned out when they came they were a little longer ( ~ 20cm ). I might have mentioned it again once I got the first light but since it worked "as it was" I was content. I am surprised though that the remote cord on the new 2013 edition is only a little over 17cm (not including the button ).

    Jim from Action LED has contacted me about the current length issue and an offer was made to fix the problem. Since I've gotten it mounted a little closer now I might be okay with it as is. Fingers crossed.

    Now as to the Start up operation issue: It turns out it's official, the Gloworm operating instruction manual is in error. YOU DO NOT CLICK ONCE TO ACTIVATE THE FIRST MENU. INSTEAD YOU "PRESS AND HOLD THREE SECONDS". This was verified to me by Jim but of course by that time I had already figured it out. ( Although it did take some time... ) Now that I know how to turn it on I get it right every time.

    In the mean time I strongly suggest to the Gloworm people that they increase the length of the remote cord to at least 22cm. before too many of these go out. In the mean time folks that don't need the extra length ( for shorter bars ) shouldn't have a problem.

  46. #46
    Action LED Lights
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    I found some time yesterday to do the first Light Distribution test of the X2v3 and plotted it here vs the v2. It show the change to be pretty much right on with the 25% increase claimed.

    Gloworm X2 v3 ( XM-L2) Who's In?-gloworm-x2v2-vs-x2v3.png
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
    www.action-led-lights.com

  47. #47
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    Thanks for the information Bruce. You are clearly different than the typical China light, I can see why the cost is what it is now.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Thanks bad andy; Glad to hear I'm not the only one who has experienced the issue. If you check the original Gloworm X2 Thread I made mention of the remote length issue at post #237 That was back in early 2012. Gloworm than responded at that time and said the length would be 19cm. Turned out when they came they were a little longer ( ~ 20cm ). I might have mentioned it again once I got the first light but since it worked "as it was" I was content. I am surprised though that the remote cord on the new 2013 edition is only a little over 17cm (not including the button ).

    Jim from Action LED has contacted me about the current length issue and an offer was made to fix the problem. Since I've gotten it mounted a little closer now I might be okay with it as is. Fingers crossed.

    Now as to the Start up operation issue: It turns out it's official, the Gloworm operating instruction manual is in error. YOU DO NOT CLICK ONCE TO ACTIVATE THE FIRST MENU. INSTEAD YOU "PRESS AND HOLD THREE SECONDS". This was verified to me by Jim but of course by that time I had already figured it out. ( Although it did take some time... ) Now that I know how to turn it on I get it right every time.

    In the mean time I strongly suggest to the Gloworm people that they increase the length of the remote cord to at least 22cm. before too many of these go out. In the mean time folks that don't need the extra length ( for shorter bars ) shouldn't have a problem.
    CAT, I measured my cord. From light base to far edge of switch: 8 inches = 20.32 cm
    I strongly recommend your suggestion to increase the factory length to around 22cm - it would really help those of us riding typically wide bars these days.
    Can I also suggest the y-junction in the cable actually would work better if it were closer to the lighthead? When my lights are installed, it's kind of weird having the cable go from the Y-junction to the battery somewhere along the bars in between the stem and end of bars. It would be a cleaner setup, and less prone to disconnecting via edge-to-edge bar movements were it closer to the stem/lighthead.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    FYI: Action LED now has the new Version 3 edition of the Gloworm X2 on their website. I'm in.. Can't wait to get my hands on the little gem. My expectations are very high. I sure hope the Gloworm people don't let me down. These aren't inexpensive.

    I have a question for Jim ( Action LED ) or anyone else who might know: I ordered the lamp head only. I thought I remember reading somewhere ( on MTBR ) that the new units were going to include the new ( solid alloy ) quick release/cam lock bar mounts. I know I'm getting a mount but not sure if it's the same O-ring mount or cam lock type mount?
    didn't you say i was a sad person because i don't like Chinese DX / Ebay lights ? this light isn't Chinese and you can buy four SolarStorm X2 instead of one of these ? What's wrong Cat ? are you feeling OK ?



    also isn't 1500 lumens "too much" ? didn't you say you only need 200 lumens and anybody who wants more has bad night vision ?


  50. #50
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    So here's my .02

    I've had numerous cheap Chinese lights. Probably 6 total. My buddies have them too so I'd say we have maybe 12 total. A couple have had light head issues but for the most part, they've been ok. The universal problem has been the poor batteries. All have consistently reduced in run time over a year to about 1/2. After several years they just don't work.

    This is all ok as you can buy new cheap batteries cheap, usually 20 bucks. No guarantee they will even work but most do for a while. The good w/ this system is you can keep upgrading every year to the newest LED at very cheap cost.

    On the other hand, I bought the Dinotte dual XML-3 when they first came out. I've started using them the last several weeks and again, they last forever and the batteries seem to have all the run time. They are lithium so of course when it gets cold they will reduce in run time but thankfully in the Bay Area I won't have to deal w/ anything under 40 degrees F most of Winter. I always talk the Dinotte's and they never fail. Maybe that's the difference in the 2 systems. I would never go out w/o the Dinotte's. Or Lupine's if I had those, etc, etc. You get the idea.

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