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  1. #101
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    I never regret having dual XS lights. I started with lower lumen lights and have worked my way up and am pleased so much that if they come up with a more output XS i may have to get a couple more.....

    One think i especially like is that if i need to go out for a very long night ride I can run the XS at a low or mid level and have hours more run time

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wish I Were Riding View Post
    Dumb question time! Is there another thread that discusses the Alpha or is this the best place? I think the price on the Alpha is great. Now the X2 seems like too much light and too much money to me. Anyone have any real world feedback on the Alpha? Any downsides to a 2 x Alpha setup?
    I think the Alpha would be fine on the bars, and maybe enough on the helmet depending on how you ride. Hell, I used to ride with a couple "800 lumen" original Magicshine lights that were more like 650 lumen on a good day. It wasn't a great pattern for riding the trail, but it was enough to ride conservatively at night. After a couple more rides with the X2 I think it's my new benchmark for a helmet light. Great beam pattern, long throw, and high quality. On the bars you don't need as much light, but I wouldn't skimp on the helmet light.
    "Got everything you need?"

  3. #103
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    Will be interesting to see how the Alpha ends up working for a helmet light. The Alpha's XPG3 emitters are more throw oriented than the XML2 emitters used in the X2 and considering the 900 lumen XPG equipped CX urban out throws the 1300 lumen XML equipped CX Trail the Alpha may out throw the more powerful X2. I've been told to expect a similar reduction in throw as in lumen output compared to the X2 but remain skeptical this is fact.
    Mole

    *** Alpha "Lighthead only" option now available @ Action-LED-Lights!!***
    Last edited by MRMOLE; 4 Weeks Ago at 02:06 PM.

  4. #104
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    Appreciate the discount!!!



    Thanks Gloworm/Action-LED-Lights for the "BLACKFRIDAY" deal. Have been very curious about the new Alpha but already have lots of more powerful lights and Alpha was a bit out of my price range for review lights till today. Looking forward to testing the least expensive way to get Gloworm performance and quality. Too good of a deal to pass up.
    Mole

  5. #105
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    I had an x2 wireless lighthead in my cart, somehow I showed some self-control, lol. Resistance is futile when the XS wireless shows up!

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirt Road View Post
    I had an x2 wireless lighthead in my cart, somehow I showed some self-control, lol. Resistance is futile when the XS wireless shows up!
    Well done. Quieting the trigger finger is sometimes hard to do. Like you said though, when the XS wireless shows up we'll all be laying down the Benjamin's.

    That said Gloworm won't make as much money off of the wireless stuff as they could have. They simply took too long to bring the stuff to market and now there's more competition.

  7. #107
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    Can someone tell me the kelvin temp of daylight and neutral light on the XS?

    And out of curiosity, are there any coupon codes available?

    Thanks.

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoHeadsBrewing View Post
    I think the Alpha would be fine on the bars, and maybe enough on the helmet depending on how you ride. Hell, I used to ride with a couple "800 lumen" original Magicshine lights that were more like 650 lumen on a good day. It wasn't a great pattern for riding the trail, but it was enough to ride conservatively at night. After a couple more rides with the X2 I think it's my new benchmark for a helmet light. Great beam pattern, long throw, and high quality. On the bars you don't need as much light, but I wouldn't skimp on the helmet light.
    Don't most riders use a stronger wide pattern light on hadlebars and a weaker narrow beam on helmet?

    http://www.mbr.co.uk/news/best-mount...-lights-335433

    Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

    "A light on the*bar*is essential; running well below your eyeline it creates shadows in the trail ahead, generating texture to read and facilitate line choice. For fast riding you will need around 2000 lumens plus, less for more straightforward, less technical riding.

    A*helmet*mount on its own is positively dangerous, beaming out virtually in line with the eye to flatten any shadows, rendering the view virtually two dimensional and impossible to judge.

    The best setup has a bit of both – a powerful bar light for trail reading, backed up by a helmet light that allows tight corners to be negotiated, obstacles to be peered over and, of course, it lets you turn to see what the hell that rustling was in the bushes just off to your right a minute ago. Around 600-1000 lumens for a helmet mount will allow you to see far enough without overpowering those all important shadows created by your bar mount."


    Read more at http://www.mbr.co.uk/news/best-mount...H3UIbFeaDIg.99

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by RRsRRs View Post
    Can someone tell me the kelvin temp of daylight and neutral light on the XS?

    And out of curiosity, are there any coupon codes available?

    Thanks.
    The Daylight led's are 6000K - 6500K
    The Neutral Whites are 4500K - 5000K
    Jim Harger
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  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by jazzanova View Post
    Don't most riders use a stronger wide pattern light on hadlebars and a weaker narrow beam on helmet?

    The best mountain bike lights for 2017/2018 - MBR

    Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

    "A light on the*bar*is essential; running well below your eyeline it creates shadows in the trail ahead, generating texture to read and facilitate line choice. For fast riding you will need around 2000 lumens plus, less for more straightforward, less technical riding.

    A*helmet*mount on its own is positively dangerous, beaming out virtually in line with the eye to flatten any shadows, rendering the view virtually two dimensional and impossible to judge.

    The best setup has a bit of both – a powerful bar light for trail reading, backed up by a helmet light that allows tight corners to be negotiated, obstacles to be peered over and, of course, it lets you turn to see what the hell that rustling was in the bushes just off to your right a minute ago. Around 600-1000 lumens for a helmet mount will allow you to see far enough without overpowering those all important shadows created by your bar mount."


    Read more at The best mountain bike lights for 2017/2018 - MBR
    This is such a contentious issue and IMHO it really depends on the individual and how they like the light in relation to the trail.

    In discussion, the main points I try to get across is: Wider beam on the bar than on the helmet and a helmet light that can throw down the trail so the rider can see whats coming - how far the rider needs to see depends on personal preference/speed etc.

    To say someone needs 2000 lumens on the bar to ride fast is like saying someone needs a 5litre V8 car to go fast - its just not the case. Its about what you want/need and how the light is used - remember lumens is just about how much light is emmitted from the light and lux points to the intensity at any one point. The combination of these two creates the beam.

    When riding with a wider beam on the bar, it facilitates shadows, enhances peripheral vision and provides light from close in to a moderate distance down the trail, if it is too far down the trail you lose the advantage of light closer in and therefore peripheral speed judgement (trees moving past your eye). The helmet light, allows you to scope out whats going on down the trail a distance usually just past the beam of the bar light and also allows the rider to look through a corner and spot the exit, whilst the bar light will usually point into the corner.

    Additionally, we sell plenty of lights to indivudals just wanting a helmet light to use. This is also a valid method as we don't all have access to the funds to purchase a pair of high powered lights. If the beam on the helmet is relatively powerful with good width, then running only the helmet light is fine. The rider will not get the advantage of as much peripheral light or maximum ground shadow, but they still will be able to ride relatively fast, safely and most of all have fun!

    Cheers

    Bruce
    Gloworm Lights - 'Create Your Escape'
    High End LED Light Designer - New Zealand

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gloworm Manufacture View Post
    This is such a contentious issue and IMHO it really depends on the individual and how they like the light in relation to the trail.

    In discussion, the main points I try to get across is: Wider beam on the bar than on the helmet and a helmet light that can throw down the trail so the rider can see whats coming - how far the rider needs to see depends on personal preference/speed etc.

    To say someone needs 2000 lumens on the bar to ride fast is like saying someone needs a 5litre V8 car to go fast - its just not the case. Its about what you want/need and how the light is used - remember lumens is just about how much light is emmitted from the light and lux points to the intensity at any one point. The combination of these two creates the beam.

    When riding with a wider beam on the bar, it facilitates shadows, enhances peripheral vision and provides light from close in to a moderate distance down the trail, if it is too far down the trail you lose the advantage of light closer in and therefore peripheral speed judgement (trees moving past your eye). The helmet light, allows you to scope out whats going on down the trail a distance usually just past the beam of the bar light and also allows the rider to look through a corner and spot the exit, whilst the bar light will usually point into the corner.

    Additionally, we sell plenty of lights to indivudals just wanting a helmet light to use. This is also a valid method as we don't all have access to the funds to purchase a pair of high powered lights. If the beam on the helmet is relatively powerful with good width, then running only the helmet light is fine. The rider will not get the advantage of as much peripheral light or maximum ground shadow, but they still will be able to ride relatively fast, safely and most of all have fun!

    Cheers

    Bruce
    Thanks!
    For fast, twisty, few rock gardens, should a x2 (bars) & alpha (helmet) be enough? Riding in SoCal/OC. Most rides in 1.5-2h range.
    Climbing with no or minimum light.
    I am leaning towards XS (bars) & X2 (helmet)
    Any idea when a wireless XS will be available?

    Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

  12. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by jazzanova View Post
    Thanks!
    For fast, twisty, few rock gardens, should a x2 (bars) & alpha (helmet) be enough? Riding in SoCal/OC. Most rides in 1.5-2h range.
    Climbing with no or minimum light.
    I am leaning towards XS (bars) & X2 (helmet)
    Any idea when a wireless XS will be available?

    Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
    I think that's plenty of light. Everybody is different it seems, but too much light on the bars washes things out on the trail close to me. With my X2 on the bars I don't run it on high; either low for climbing/slow technical, or medium for descending. The helmet light is on low for climbing and max output for descending. I think even an Alpha on the bars would be plenty if you wanted to save some cash. But it sure is nice with the X2 running on low and medium because it will last over 4 hours easy.

    And like I said, everyone is different and you should try it both ways. What works is what works!
    "Got everything you need?"

  13. #113
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    I am getting a x2 2018 wireless light and will need another loght for my hadlebars. Should I wait for wireless xs or should I just get the current one?

    Anpther option would be to use the x2 on hadlebars and get a alpha for helmet. Or another x2...


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  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by jazzanova View Post
    I am getting a x2 2018 wireless light and will need another loght for my hadlebars. Should I wait for wireless xs or should I just get the current one?

    Anpther option would be to use the x2 on hadlebars and get a alpha for helmet. Or another x2...


    Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
    It will likely be summer before we see a wireless XS. However, a bar mounted light is not a problem with the wired remote since you can put the switch right next to your grip and hit it with your thumb. You would more than likely put the wireless switch in the same place.
    Jim Harger
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  15. #115
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    Thank you.
    I am trying to figure out if I will miss the option to controll all lights with 1 remote...


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  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by jazzanova View Post
    Thank you.
    I am trying to figure out if I will miss the option to controll all lights with 1 remote...


    Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
    One remote would be ideal for a clean and simple control arrangement and sounds like what you want if you can stand to wait. If you need 2 lights now but think you will eventually pick up a wireless XS you might even consider a CX trail for an interim bar light to go with the X2. I've really enjoyed having a similar Ituo Wiz20 that works great for road or mountain use and is frequently my first choice (I own a ton of lights) for neighborhood/MUP/road rides. This option would leave you with a light that would probably still get used after you upgrade to the XS. Just a different Idea to consider (if it sounds appropriate for you).
    Mole

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    One remote would be ideal for a clean and simple control arrangement and sounds like what you want if you can stand to wait. If you need 2 lights now but think you will eventually pick up a wireless XS you might even consider a CX trail for an interim bar light to go with the X2. I've really enjoyed having a similar Ituo Wiz20 that works great for road or mountain use and is frequently my first choice (I own a ton of lights) for neighborhood/MUP/road rides. This option would leave you with a light that would probably still get used after you upgrade to the XS. Just a different Idea to consider (if it sounds appropriate for you).
    Mole
    Good idea MRMOLE.

    An alternative to that is the Alpha. Use the Alpha on the helmet for now and the X2 on the bar.

    The Alpha is upgradable to wireless (yet to be released) so when/if you feel the need you could buy the upgrade and you'll have 2 wirelessly controlled lights - operated form the same remote.

    The Alpha throws a little better than the X2, however the beam width is noticeably more narrow.

    Cheers

    Bruce
    Gloworm Lights - 'Create Your Escape'
    High End LED Light Designer - New Zealand

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gloworm Manufacture View Post
    Good idea MRMOLE.

    An alternative to that is the Alpha. Use the Alpha on the helmet for now and the X2 on the bar.

    The Alpha is upgradable to wireless (yet to be released) so when/if you feel the need you could buy the upgrade and you'll have 2 wirelessly controlled lights - operated form the same remote.

    The Alpha throws a little better than the X2, however the beam width is noticeably more narrow.

    Cheers

    Bruce
    Curious to see how XPG3's will work Gloworm style + extra large bike light budget this year + Black Friday Sale = tracking info. indicating as of Saturday I should have an Alpha to evaluate and recommend to those who's needs it will fit (IMO). Guessing I'm getting another great light!
    Mole

  19. #119
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    Bruce I'm looking for an XS to go with my X2 also. Will there be an early release of an XS that can be upgraded to wireless remote?

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve_MTB_22 View Post
    Bruce I'm looking for an XS to go with my X2 also. Will there be an early release of an XS that can be upgraded to wireless remote?
    Hey

    Not as yet sorry - the redesign of the XS to become wireless required a little more than the X2. So, unfortunately there won't be any early release.

    Cheers

    Bruce
    Gloworm Lights - 'Create Your Escape'
    High End LED Light Designer - New Zealand

  21. #121
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    Anybody having trouble with losing the BT connection on the new wireless lights? My X2 (bar mounted) stopped responding to remote inputs three times on my ride last night.

    A disconnect/reconnect would re-pair the lighthead to the remote, but would drop the connection again.

    The last re-pairing remained stable for the reminder of the ride.

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by amish_matt View Post
    Anybody having trouble with losing the BT connection on the new wireless lights? My X2 (bar mounted) stopped responding to remote inputs three times on my ride last night.

    A disconnect/reconnect would re-pair the lighthead to the remote, but would drop the connection again.

    The last re-pairing remained stable for the reminder of the ride.
    Hey Amish_matt

    Cannot say we're happy to hear your experience was less than ideal, but very happy you have let us know.

    First of all, drop us a line at support@glowormlites.co.nz and we will sort this for you pronto.

    Regards to dropping off of the signal, it could be due to a low battery in the remote. We have had a couple of instances where the remote button has been pressed in transit to the customer and therefore has lost a lot of capacity. In this case we have reimbursed the customer the cost of the button cell. By the way the packaging situation has now been resolved.

    Either way, drop us an email and we'll solve this situation as fast as we can.

    Cheers

    Bruce
    Gloworm Lights - 'Create Your Escape'
    High End LED Light Designer - New Zealand

  23. #123
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    I have some feedback and a question I can't find an answer to.

    First, the X2 with two spot optics is ideal for road riding. I replaced a self modded 3 XML with triple reflector light with it for weight and it is a good replacement. My computer and light are stem mounted on an arm out front and my original light would cause it to bounce around a bit and I don't have that with the X2. I had more spill with my original, but the X2 gives a steady cone of light out the front with no hot-spots and I would say it has more throw. Intensity is about the same.

    I thought I would not use the wireless transmitter but it is convenient to dim for oncoming riders on the path.

    The question - I noticed attaching my own battery the button on the back changes color during a startup test I assume. While riding toward the end of a ride the other night I saw the button change to orange from green. Can you tell me what that indicates and if there are other changes? I assume it's some sort of battery indicator since it was the end of a second ride between charges.

    Thanks, and Jim's customer service is top notch on a great product!

  24. #124
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    Hey Captain Obvious

    The start up sequence will also happen with Gloworm battery. It indicates all is good with the wireless receiver and connections internally. If something is wrong the button will stay red.

    The button going from green to orange is a basic battery voltage/runtime indicator. More info can be found at www.glowormlites.co.nz/support.

    Cheers

    Bruce

  25. #125
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    It's my understanding that the optics for the Alpha and the CX series are interchangeable. Stock optic options listed on Action-LED-Lights website are spot/flood and spot/wide vs. spot/spot and spot/wide for the CX. Is that correct that there are 3 different optic combinations or is it a misprint and the spot/flood and spot/spot are really the same and if they are which is correct? I'd prefer to run a spot/spot for helmet with the Alpha if available.
    Mole

  26. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    It's my understanding that the optics for the Alpha and the CX series are interchangeable. Stock optic options listed on Action-LED-Lights website are spot/flood and spot/wide vs. spot/spot and spot/wide for the CX. Is that correct that there are 3 different optic combinations or is it a misprint and the spot/flood and spot/spot are really the same and if they are which is correct? I'd prefer to run a spot/spot for helmet with the Alpha if available.
    Mole
    Mole,

    I'm not seeing were you picked up a spot/flood option. The options for both are spot/spot and spot/wide.
    Jim Harger
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  27. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by Action LED Lights View Post
    Mole,

    I'm not seeing were you picked up a spot/flood option. The options for both are spot/spot and spot/wide.
    In the Alpha's specifications section the last entry says: 2 optic systems (spot/flood) and (spot/wide). Sounds like spot/spot is correct, YA! Thanks Jim.
    Mole

  28. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gloworm Manufacture View Post
    Hey Amish_matt

    Cannot say we're happy to hear your experience was less than ideal, but very happy you have let us know.

    First of all, drop us a line at support@glowormlites.co.nz and we will sort this for you pronto.

    Regards to dropping off of the signal, it could be due to a low battery in the remote. We have had a couple of instances where the remote button has been pressed in transit to the customer and therefore has lost a lot of capacity. In this case we have reimbursed the customer the cost of the button cell. By the way the packaging situation has now been resolved.

    Either way, drop us an email and we'll solve this situation as fast as we can.

    Cheers

    Bruce
    Thanks for the follow up, I emailed you.

    It was colder, right around freezing, on the last ride than on my prior rides (had no issues on the first two rides). Maybe the colder temps affected the battery?

  29. #129
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    Lithium batteries don't like the cold. Its something that everyone deals with. My wireless computers hate the cold, I have to rely on phone app only without sensor data once it gets near and below freezing. Wireless remotes use the same type of batteries and react the same way. Only option is to put the remote very near the light head and even then it can be a little glitchy.

    Nothing to worry about, its normal for anything that uses those little lithium watch batteries in the cold. Once you warm it back up all will be good again.
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

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  30. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAKC Ind View Post
    Nothing to worry about, its normal for anything that uses those little lithium watch batteries in the cold. Once you warm it back up all will be good again.
    Just attach it to the light head so it'll warm up- problem solved!

  31. #131
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    How long is the cable for the remote on XS? I remember it used to be too short for wider bars. Did it get longer?

    Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

  32. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by jazzanova View Post
    How long is the cable for the remote on XS? I remember it used to be too short for wider bars. Did it get longer?

    Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
    @jazznova; The length question should no longer be an issue. If in doubt give Jim at ActionLED and he will give you the exact length you need.

    @Amish...I've never tried using one of my wireless remotes in the cold but it wouldn't surprise me if there were problems. Small batteries just don't like cold. The smaller the battery ( like button or coin cells ) the more the problem. Hard to say at what temperature you can start to expect problems. If I were to guess I'd guess somewhere in the 45-50°F range...depending on wind, length of exposure and just how new your battery is in the remote. Below 40°F I would definitely expect wireless problems at some point.

    If I'm using a lamp for a bar light I'll always prefer a wired remote. For the helmet wireless is nice but if the remote acts up I have no problems using the switch on the lamp. Going forward; If you're going to use a wireless remote on a very cold ride probably a good idea to not mount the remote on the bars until you are at the trail head.

  33. #133
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    Alpha came in the mail today. Initial impression no different than the more expensive Gloworm models, nice tiny light with well thought out accessories. Strange to see a Gloworm without a remote mode button but the lighthead mounted mode button functions as good as any I've tried. No ride time tonight but I did run it by my light meter with my 2015 and 2017 X2's for comparison. For the bounce test I had to alter the meter sensor placement from where I normally put it because of the optic/faceplate setup on the Alpha so readings are slightly lower than they would normally be but 2 meter center-beam readings will not be affected. Bounce test Alpha/2015 X2/2017 X2 = 156/186/221 lux and center-beam = 6800/6300/7900 lux. Bounce test results position the lights in order of their claimed lumen amounts but Alpha's longer throwing XPG emitters did allow the less powerful light to out throw (according to light intensity) the 2015 X2. Small size and good throw should make this a good helmet light. Anxious to ride with the Alpha to evaluate beam width + try out the spot/wide optic to see how it will perform on the bars. Looks like this is going to be a nice light.
    Mole

  34. #134
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    Hey MrMole, I'll be looking forward to your findings. Since I joined the KS'er for the Outbound lights, I think I'll still need a good helmet light. So your findings will be interesting to me for sure.

  35. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    Alpha came in the mail today. Initial impression no different than the more expensive Gloworm models, nice tiny light with well thought out accessories. Strange to see a Gloworm without a remote mode button but the lighthead mounted mode button functions as good as any I've tried. No ride time tonight but I did run it by my light meter with my 2015 and 2017 X2's for comparison. For the bounce test I had to alter the meter sensor placement from where I normally put it because of the optic/faceplate setup on the Alpha so readings are slightly lower than they would normally be but 2 meter center-beam readings will not be affected. Bounce test Alpha/2015 X2/2017 X2 = 156/186/221 lux and center-beam = 6800/6300/7900 lux. Bounce test results position the lights in order of their claimed lumen amounts but Alpha's longer throwing XPG emitters did allow the less powerful light to out throw (according to light intensity) the 2015 X2. Small size and good throw should make this a good helmet light. Anxious to ride with the Alpha to evaluate beam width + try out the spot/wide optic to see how it will perform on the bars. Looks like this is going to be a nice light.
    Mole
    If what you're saying is true than it's possible a 3 or 4-up Alpha version would be even better as a helmet lamp. Still, you haven't tried it on the helmet yet but my CAt gut is telling me that likely the beam pattern ( using spot/spot ) won't be as wide as the new X2's using spot/spot. A 3-up Alpha though would probably give the X2's a run for the money, especially if GW decided to make it compatible with a wireless remote.

  36. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    If what you're saying is true than it's possible a 3 or 4-up Alpha version would be even better as a helmet lamp. Still, you haven't tried it on the helmet yet but my CAt gut is telling me that likely the beam pattern ( using spot/spot ) won't be as wide as the new X2's using spot/spot. A 3-up Alpha though would probably give the X2's a run for the money, especially if GW decided to make it compatible with a wireless remote.
    My expectations for beam width are that it will be narrower. May not be ideal depending on your helmet beam preference but using XPG emitters allow the manufacturer to increase throw vs. XML's at a given lumen output. Road test required for both optic setups at this point. This is also my first neutral white tint Gloworm so excited to try this out too.

    Don't think we'll be seeing any 3 or 4 emitter Alpha's since this was designed as a lower priced option for Gloworm customers but if they were to make them I'm sure the retrofitable wireless remote upgrade option for the current alpha would work for that too.
    Mole

  37. #137
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    Received my Alpha Thursday night and very impressed with the beam/output/formfactor. I may get an off chance to use this, but this will be my daughter’s helmet light replacing an original MS.

    Does anyone have instructions or photos of the routing for the GoPro mount using the Velcro strap? In order to be long enough my solution has the strap passing between the foam pad on the base and the helmet. Doesn’t seem right like that. Alternatively, routing it twice under the helmet body doesn’t leave enough length.


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  38. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by bme107 View Post
    Received my Alpha Thursday night and very impressed with the beam/output/formfactor. I may get an off chance to use this, but this will be my daughter’s helmet light replacing an original MS.

    Does anyone have instructions or photos of the routing for the GoPro mount using the Velcro strap? In order to be long enough my solution has the strap passing between the foam pad on the base and the helmet. Doesn’t seem right like that. Alternatively, routing it twice under the helmet body doesn’t leave enough length.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    What type of helmet will be used? Every helmet is a little different with vent spacing so a picture would help.
    Mole

  39. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by bme107 View Post
    .....Does anyone have instructions or photos of the routing for the GoPro mount using the Velcro strap? In order to be long enough my solution has the strap passing between the foam pad on the base and the helmet. Doesn’t seem right like that. Alternatively, routing it twice under the helmet body doesn’t leave enough length.
    If the helmet has an appropriate center rib, then IMO, the cleanest GoPro compatible mounting is the adhesive type.

    https://www.glowormlites.co.nz/produ...dhesive-mount/

    Be sure to clean the area the pad is to be attached at with some alcohol. Then wait a day or so after mounting the adhesive pad before use for the best bond. Even though it is a peel and stick adhesive, it is acrylic based and the bond strength increases over a few days time. A little pressure(<2 lbs) during this time will add holding power too.
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  40. #140
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    Gloworm Lights back on MTBR

    I’m asking more so about the strap routing pattern and mount rather than anything about the helmet. I understand every helmet is different so I want to know how it was intended. Appears to work best for narrow center rib configuration.

    3 of the most used helmets out of 7 in the house have a center vent so wrapping the adjacent ribs requires lots of strap. I may need to find a longer strap and something to plug the vent so the mount sits flat.


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  41. #141
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    ^^^ An opportunity to exercise that creativity you know that you have,
    A bad day of cycling is better than a good day at work

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  42. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by bme107 View Post
    I’m asking more so about the strap routing pattern and mount rather than anything about the helmet. I understand every helmet is different so I want to know how it was intended. Appears to work best for narrow center rib configuration.

    3 of the most used helmets out of 7 in the house have a center vent so wrapping the adjacent ribs requires lots of strap. I may need to find a longer strap and something to plug the vent so the mount sits flat.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    First you keep mentioning the strap length, there should be a strap for each side (would be a big deal if you were trying to use just one). Not sure if my way was the intended way but worked on 3 center vent helmets for me. Thread the strap from the top down with the velcro towards the inside of the mount. Skipping over the center and next vent out run the strap through the following vent and around the pillar separating it from the next vent out. Pull the strap back to and through the buckle, pull out to tighten and press to attach. Repeat for other side. Was a little different for each helmet depending on the number of vents and placement so you may have to improvise a little but same basic threading.
    Mole

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  43. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    This is also my first neutral white tint Gloworm so excited to try this out too. Mole
    I've found that I'm running one power level down since I switched my X2/XS combo to neutral white, really extends the battery life.

  44. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by patski View Post
    I've found that I'm running one power level down since I switched my X2/XS combo to neutral white, really extends the battery life.
    Since you brought up battery life it's worth mentioning the Alpha only draws 1.45a at its maximum setting. Pretty good for its 1200 lumens but outstanding when you consider its higher center-beam lux numbers than any 1500 lumen light I've tested and those typically require 2.0 - 2.5a to almost equal the alphas throw. Those running 2 cell batteries are going to get a useful bump in runtime. Beam is a little narrower than the X2/XP2/Duo but I never considered it a problem on last nights ride. It's also tiny like the duo and not noticeable weight wise in use. Helmet use/first ride, very positive impression so far.
    Mole

  45. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRMOLE View Post
    First you keep mentioning the strap length, there should be a strap for each side (would be a big deal if you were trying to use just one). Not sure if my way was the intended way but worked on 3 center vent helmets for me. Thread the strap from the top down with the velcro towards the inside of the mount. Skipping over the center and next vent out run the strap through the following vent and around the pillar separating it from the next vent out. Pull the strap back to and through the buckle, pull out to tighten and press to attach. Repeat for other side. Was a little different for each helmet depending on the number of vents and placement so you may have to improvise a little but same basic threading.
    Mole

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    This was extremely helpful!

    I received 2 straps, both approximately the same length, one noticeably wider than the other. Eyeballing it, the wider one appeared to be used with the 2-cell pack for attachment to the helmet. This leaves me with just one strap for the GoPro mount, and where I was having trouble. As you can imagine wrestling one strap where essentially two lengths were required was near impossible. That's why I was thinking that there is some unique routing of the strap with regards to Velcro direction and feed sequence.

    I was going Velcro inwards down through the mount, around a single rib of the helmet, up through the other side of the mount, doubling back through the helmet and up through the buckle on the 1st side, back down one more time to cinch it tight and engage the Velcro. Needed 3 hands to do this around even the smallest of ribs and it ended up off center. Figure this couldn't be the proper way.

    Seems my options are A) to get a longer strap and use my routing sequence or B) use the 2nd provided strap and get another strap for the battery.

  46. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by bme107 View Post
    This was extremely helpful!

    I received 2 straps, both approximately the same length, one noticeably wider than the other. Eyeballing it, the wider one appeared to be used with the 2-cell pack for attachment to the helmet. This leaves me with just one strap for the GoPro mount, and where I was having trouble. As you can imagine wrestling one strap where essentially two lengths were required was near impossible. That's why I was thinking that there is some unique routing of the strap with regards to Velcro direction and feed sequence.

    I was going Velcro inwards down through the mount, around a single rib of the helmet, up through the other side of the mount, doubling back through the helmet and up through the buckle on the 1st side, back down one more time to cinch it tight and engage the Velcro. Needed 3 hands to do this around even the smallest of ribs and it ended up off center. Figure this couldn't be the proper way.

    Seems my options are A) to get a longer strap and use my routing sequence or B) use the 2nd provided strap and get another strap for the battery.
    Sorry team, have been away and have just seen this convo now.

    The way it was designed is to thread under the mount, so that the velcro sits between the mount and helmet. This way you only need one strap. The foam on the back of the mount helps with grip, not through the texture of the foam but the soft surface pressing down.

    Alternatively as previously mentioned you can also use an adhesive aftermarket mount if you dont mind leavin gthe mount on the helmet.

    Cheers!

    Bruce
    Gloworm Lights - 'Create Your Escape'
    High End LED Light Designer - New Zealand

  47. #147
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    You're right MRMOLE - it is only 1.45 AMP (at the battery). But 1.79A at the LED. This allows for the difference in voltage between the LEDs and the battery.
    Gloworm Lights - 'Create Your Escape'
    High End LED Light Designer - New Zealand

  48. #148
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    X2 vs Alpha.
    Trying to decide which one would be beter as a helmet light.
    Is there a significant diference?

    Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

  49. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gloworm Manufacture View Post
    The way it was designed is to thread under the mount, so that the velcro sits between the mount and helmet. This way you only need one strap. The foam on the back of the mount helps with grip, not through the texture of the foam but the soft surface pressing down.
    Cheers!

    Bruce
    Thank you too. Validated that I was not going crazy.
    Seems we've got options we didn't even know should/could work.

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