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  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by znomit View Post
    Having XML-U2 written on the stars is a good indication that its anything but that
    They could possibly not be a CREE LED even. I'm looking at the pics on my phone so can't see enough detail to verify if they are real or not. A website for a mfg'r of off-road truck light bars I saw while ago showed images of fake CREE emitters. Fortunately they were pretty easy to tell by the lack of rectangular patterns on the die that is characteristic of genuine XMLs. Most buyers of these cheap lights would not think to research that nor is it likely to matter to most. It's still going to be pretty darn bright. Maybe not as bright as it could be, but very useable.

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2melow View Post
    I am not sure what I am looking for, apologies.
    You have white die backplate which indicates it is new XML2 and probably T6 bin 3B tint as seller states that has been upgraded.
    The old XMLs have green backplate, and it is original die in this Yinding light...there is your sign XML-U2 coming from. It is original heatsink plate made by Yinding.
    Your light is superior to other Fastech, DX Yindings.

  3. #103
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    Just noticed that mine had the green backplate, so mine is the old xml, not xml2.

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    Cree do not mark bin or tint codes on their emitters. Really all you'll be able to say is the tint is cool, neutral, or warm. Even that is pretty subjective. When I mention one of my MCE lights looking a little green on the low setting most people don't see it until I switch to a higher level where it gets more white. Without at the very least a calibrated integrating sphere and calibrated constant current power supply, you'll never know what bin you have. I very much doubt that the builders of cheap lights are really stepping up for a premium bin LED. Sure, it's not that much more expensive but at the price level lights are at now saving a dollar on LEDs is going to be very attractive to the builder. Add the fact that the consumer has no ability to tell and you have a sure thing.
    It's the driver causing the MCE led to go green at lower levels. Drivers that don't use PWM are more efficient, however leds that are not driven at 100% power actually change colour at lower levels, typically green for CW and orange for NW/WM.

  5. #105
    Kir
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    Quote Originally Posted by bhocewar View Post
    You have white die backplate which indicates it is new XML2 and probably T6 bin 3B tint as seller states that has been upgraded.
    Your light is superior to other Fastech, DX Yindings.
    This is correct. Aliexpress seller replaces the leds himself, you have T6-3B neutral-white leds which are MUCH better than very cold white U2 leds in stock configuration.

  6. #106
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    I don't recall this question being asked and I know that most of the time it's random, but in general, those that have this Duo clone, how have the batteries been? Are they better than the average Chinese light? Average? Crap? Run times? Amp draw on low/med/high?

    Thanks!

  7. #107
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    STILL waiting for mine!

    Ordered 4 weeks ago now... Have tried checking the status of the delivery at several times during the process, but until now got nothing... Today I checked again, and finally I get this...

    Name:  Screen Shot 2013-10-16 at 18.32.07.png
Views: 1675
Size:  20.3 KB

    Not very impressed with my first order from Fasttech so far! That and I'm not in France either, I'm in the UK! So I'm guessing even if it did leave Hong Kong today, It'll be next week at least now til it arrives...

    Good to see the beam patterns make it look like it will be worth the wait though. I like quite a floody beam compared to a narrow one, though it does look like the Gemini optics (or possibly the Gloworm X2 ones) should fit, and those are easily available for me at least.

    Any more news on the battery quality/life and current draw etc. in each mode? Should I be budgeting for a new battery pretty quickly, or do the OEM batteries seem of reasonable quality?

  8. #108
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    Will these lights work with my existing Geomangear Magicshine battery pack? It has the round connectors. This looks pretty cool!
    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

    2012 Specialized Stumpy EVO 29 HT

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrbubbles View Post
    Just noticed that mine had the green backplate, so mine is the old xml, not xml2.
    That doesn't mean it's an old xml, the led die may have been swapped for a new die using the same old star, and I've seen XML2 leds on different coloured stars.

    There is a very easy way to check wether you have the new or old XML emitter. The old XML emitters have rectangular patterns on it (actually strips), the new xm-l2 emitter has no rectangular patterns.

    See this site for clarification:

    Brightness Bins - Flashlight Wiki

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    They could possibly not be a CREE LED even. I'm looking at the pics on my phone so can't see enough detail to verify if they are real or not. A website for a mfg'r of off-road truck light bars I saw while ago showed images of fake CREE emitters. Fortunately they were pretty easy to tell by the lack of rectangular patterns on the die that is characteristic of genuine XMLs. Most buyers of these cheap lights would not think to research that nor is it likely to matter to most. It's still going to be pretty darn bright. Maybe not as bright as it could be, but very useable.
    XM_L2's don't have the rectangular patterns on them, only the first gen XML's do

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Will these lights work with my existing Geomangear Magicshine battery pack? It has the round connectors. This looks pretty cool!
    OHHH! So now we's gonna think'in of giving up on the ol' P-7's now are we.......'bout time.

    Ti, all these duel XM-L lamps will usually work with the typical MS type connectors. One of these on the bars should be much better than the older single P-7 lamps, at least as far as beam width goes closer in to the bike. They will draw more power though if you run them on high for longer periods. Using the medium setting though will typically get you much better run times and not run so hot. Even on medium, these things light up the night really well.

  12. #112
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    For the cost I just figured why not. My P7s continue to work fine.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

    2012 Specialized Stumpy EVO 29 HT

  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Will these lights work with my existing Geomangear Magicshine battery pack? It has the round connectors. This looks pretty cool!
    It works with my original Magicshine battery.

    And it also works perfectly with my MJ-6030 5600mAh that I had bought as an upgrade for my tri-clone light.

    It works with the original tri-clone battery, but it's not a secure fit (but it does work).

    I do have one battery that it doesn't fit. It was a DX single XML-T6 (an MS clone).

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2melow View Post
    I purchased from here Free shipping 1Set CREE XML2 T6 3B Bike Light 1600lm Waterproof Bicycle Light LED HeadLamp + 8.4v Battery Pack + Charger-in Bicycle Light from Sports & Entertainment on Aliexpress.com but the price seems to have gone up $31 in the last three weeks. Order from Fast Tech for the better deal.
    I couldn't find any of these on fast tech. I searched for "CREE XML2 T6 3B"

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    OHHH! So now we's gonna think'in of giving up on the ol' P-7's now are we.......'bout time.

    Ti, all these duel XM-L lamps will usually work with the typical MS type connectors. One of these on the bars should be much better than the older single P-7 lamps, at least as far as beam width goes closer in to the bike. They will draw more power though if you run them on high for longer periods. Using the medium setting though will typically get you much better run times and not run so hot. Even on medium, these things light up the night really well.
    Honestly, the P7 Magicshine 808s are great lights and more than enough to ride fast singletrack at night. I ride with some guys that bought theirs after mine and have the XML version..no real difference to me as we ride. I have been considering the newest MS 808 light heads lately as my batteries are fine..but they are basically the same price as these Gemini Duo knock-offs..just not sure on the quasi-shady quality of these things.
    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

    2012 Specialized Stumpy EVO 29 HT

  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Honestly, the P7 Magicshine 808s are great lights and more than enough to ride fast singletrack at night. I ride with some guys that bought theirs after mine and have the XML version..no real difference to me as we ride. I have been considering the newest MS 808 light heads lately as my batteries are fine..but they are basically the same price as these Gemini Duo knock-offs..just not sure on the quasi-shady quality of these things.
    Having a lamp with two emitters on the bars makes for a better beam pattern, no question about it. Brightness isn't always the primary issue. Since you can buy one of these duo clones "lamp only" for about $25 it's hard not to buy one.

    Since you're accustomed to having a MS on the helmet you might be interested in upgrading your helmet set-up to a newer MS 808 (L2) version. Jim at Action LED is selling the "light head only" for about $55 . Definitely, these are going to be noticeably brighter than the old P-7's. Not to mention like I said before, it's not always about being brighter. The newer XM-L2 emitters are more efficient which means when you run your lamps on low not only are they a little brighter but they are using less battery power than the previous P-7's. That said, longer run times are always going to be a nice by-product of the newer lamps.

  17. #117
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    Is there a link for the lighthead only?

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Having a lamp with two emitters on the bars makes for a better beam pattern, no question about it. Brightness isn't always the primary issue. Since you can buy one of these duo clones "lamp only" for about $25 it's hard not to buy one.

    Since you're accustomed to having a MS on the helmet you might be interested in upgrading your helmet set-up to a newer MS 808 (L2) version. Jim at Action LED is selling the "light head only" for about $55 . Definitely, these are going to be noticeably brighter than the old P-7's. Not to mention like I said before, it's not always about being brighter. The newer XM-L2 emitters are more efficient which means when you run your lamps on low not only are they a little brighter but they are using less battery power than the previous P-7's. That said, longer run times are always going to be a nice by-product of the newer lamps.
    Cat, can you post a link to the $25 light-head only?
    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

    2012 Specialized Stumpy EVO 29 HT

  19. #119
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    My yinding has the first gen xml's with the rectangles.

    Still plenty bright, folks who got the xml2s should post the vendor they got it from.

  20. #120
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    Within the last week, I've looked for a dual XM-L2 lamphead only for the least cost on all the usual sites mentioned in this forum and this is the only one I found for around $25:

    Black Color SolarStorm X2 2*Cree XM-L2 2200-Lumen Led Bike Light Without Battery Pack

    The XM-L version is about $3 less.

  21. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Cat, can you post a link to the $25 light-head only?
    I believe he was talking about the Solarstorm x2, which is available as a light-head-only for around $21-$25.

    I think that the Gemini Duo Clones are only available as full kits with battery and charger. I would love to get my hands on a a light-head-only option for this light. If anyone knows of place that sells it, please post a link

  22. #122
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    Is there a big difference between the Solarstorm X2 and the YinDing light? Is it worth it?

  23. #123
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    So I finally go out for a ride with the new Duo clone. A few initial observations:

    I mounted the light on my helmet, and as I was leaving for the ride, I went to stuff the battery in my camelback. That's when I realized how short the cables are on both the light AND on the battery (I just hadn't thought of it until that moment).

    This is a nice feature if you're using it on your bars, less cable to deal with, but if you're using this on your helmet and putting the battery in a backpack or jersey pocket, get a Magicshine extension cable!
    Fortunately a friend had one to loan me.

    Next, the button is very flat, and can be a bit hard to feel with gloves on. Again, not much of a problem if it's on your bars because you can see it, but takes a little getting use to on your helmet when you're doing it by feel. I did find it was easier with my left hand than my right.
    Would be nice if the button stuck out just a bit.

    The beam is nice and even, no hot spot, no rings, etc. Definitely more of a flood light, but still very bright and decent range. But this is yet another reason it would be better on bars.
    I'm hoping that eventually I'll find some "spot" optics or reflectors that fit and will give it more throw.
    I think a stock one on bars for flood, and one configured for more spot/throw on helmet would be a PERFECT set up!

    I used it on high while riding, and switched to low or off when we stopped to regroup.
    Total ride time was 1 hr 22 min. Plus about 15 min on low while stopped, and my indicator light was still green at the end.

    Considering when we started, there was a sea of green leds on (17 riders with a LOT of various Magichines, and MS clones), and by the end of the ride there was a sea of blue, orange and red leds, I was pretty happy that mine was still green :-)

    Overall, very happy with this light and will buy another one which I will try to mod for more spot/throw using different optics or reflectors.

  24. #124
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    Gemini Duo clones-duoclonehelmet1.jpgGemini Duo clones-duoclonehelmet2.jpg

  25. #125
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    Thanks for the feedback fightnut, out of all the bugdet multi-emitter lights I've seen this one appears so far to be the best built, in particular the internals and the Nuetral white tint if you get the version from Aliexpress. Beam profile looks fantastic.

    How did you find the mode spacing?

    If we can find some replacement optics this would be perfect.

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