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  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by znomit View Post
    Having XML-U2 written on the stars is a good indication that its anything but that
    They could possibly not be a CREE LED even. I'm looking at the pics on my phone so can't see enough detail to verify if they are real or not. A website for a mfg'r of off-road truck light bars I saw while ago showed images of fake CREE emitters. Fortunately they were pretty easy to tell by the lack of rectangular patterns on the die that is characteristic of genuine XMLs. Most buyers of these cheap lights would not think to research that nor is it likely to matter to most. It's still going to be pretty darn bright. Maybe not as bright as it could be, but very useable.

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2melow View Post
    I am not sure what I am looking for, apologies.
    You have white die backplate which indicates it is new XML2 and probably T6 bin 3B tint as seller states that has been upgraded.
    The old XMLs have green backplate, and it is original die in this Yinding light...there is your sign XML-U2 coming from. It is original heatsink plate made by Yinding.
    Your light is superior to other Fastech, DX Yindings.

  3. #103
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    Just noticed that mine had the green backplate, so mine is the old xml, not xml2.

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    Cree do not mark bin or tint codes on their emitters. Really all you'll be able to say is the tint is cool, neutral, or warm. Even that is pretty subjective. When I mention one of my MCE lights looking a little green on the low setting most people don't see it until I switch to a higher level where it gets more white. Without at the very least a calibrated integrating sphere and calibrated constant current power supply, you'll never know what bin you have. I very much doubt that the builders of cheap lights are really stepping up for a premium bin LED. Sure, it's not that much more expensive but at the price level lights are at now saving a dollar on LEDs is going to be very attractive to the builder. Add the fact that the consumer has no ability to tell and you have a sure thing.
    It's the driver causing the MCE led to go green at lower levels. Drivers that don't use PWM are more efficient, however leds that are not driven at 100% power actually change colour at lower levels, typically green for CW and orange for NW/WM.

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by bhocewar View Post
    You have white die backplate which indicates it is new XML2 and probably T6 bin 3B tint as seller states that has been upgraded.
    Your light is superior to other Fastech, DX Yindings.
    This is correct. Aliexpress seller replaces the leds himself, you have T6-3B neutral-white leds which are MUCH better than very cold white U2 leds in stock configuration.

  6. #106
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    I don't recall this question being asked and I know that most of the time it's random, but in general, those that have this Duo clone, how have the batteries been? Are they better than the average Chinese light? Average? Crap? Run times? Amp draw on low/med/high?

    Thanks!

  7. #107
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    STILL waiting for mine!

    Ordered 4 weeks ago now... Have tried checking the status of the delivery at several times during the process, but until now got nothing... Today I checked again, and finally I get this...

    Name:  Screen Shot 2013-10-16 at 18.32.07.png
Views: 2099
Size:  20.3 KB

    Not very impressed with my first order from Fasttech so far! That and I'm not in France either, I'm in the UK! So I'm guessing even if it did leave Hong Kong today, It'll be next week at least now til it arrives...

    Good to see the beam patterns make it look like it will be worth the wait though. I like quite a floody beam compared to a narrow one, though it does look like the Gemini optics (or possibly the Gloworm X2 ones) should fit, and those are easily available for me at least.

    Any more news on the battery quality/life and current draw etc. in each mode? Should I be budgeting for a new battery pretty quickly, or do the OEM batteries seem of reasonable quality?

  8. #108
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    Will these lights work with my existing Geomangear Magicshine battery pack? It has the round connectors. This looks pretty cool!
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  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrbubbles View Post
    Just noticed that mine had the green backplate, so mine is the old xml, not xml2.
    That doesn't mean it's an old xml, the led die may have been swapped for a new die using the same old star, and I've seen XML2 leds on different coloured stars.

    There is a very easy way to check wether you have the new or old XML emitter. The old XML emitters have rectangular patterns on it (actually strips), the new xm-l2 emitter has no rectangular patterns.

    See this site for clarification:

    Brightness Bins - Flashlight Wiki

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    They could possibly not be a CREE LED even. I'm looking at the pics on my phone so can't see enough detail to verify if they are real or not. A website for a mfg'r of off-road truck light bars I saw while ago showed images of fake CREE emitters. Fortunately they were pretty easy to tell by the lack of rectangular patterns on the die that is characteristic of genuine XMLs. Most buyers of these cheap lights would not think to research that nor is it likely to matter to most. It's still going to be pretty darn bright. Maybe not as bright as it could be, but very useable.
    XM_L2's don't have the rectangular patterns on them, only the first gen XML's do

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Will these lights work with my existing Geomangear Magicshine battery pack? It has the round connectors. This looks pretty cool!
    OHHH! So now we's gonna think'in of giving up on the ol' P-7's now are we.......'bout time.

    Ti, all these duel XM-L lamps will usually work with the typical MS type connectors. One of these on the bars should be much better than the older single P-7 lamps, at least as far as beam width goes closer in to the bike. They will draw more power though if you run them on high for longer periods. Using the medium setting though will typically get you much better run times and not run so hot. Even on medium, these things light up the night really well.

  12. #112
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    For the cost I just figured why not. My P7s continue to work fine.

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  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Will these lights work with my existing Geomangear Magicshine battery pack? It has the round connectors. This looks pretty cool!
    It works with my original Magicshine battery.

    And it also works perfectly with my MJ-6030 5600mAh that I had bought as an upgrade for my tri-clone light.

    It works with the original tri-clone battery, but it's not a secure fit (but it does work).

    I do have one battery that it doesn't fit. It was a DX single XML-T6 (an MS clone).

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2melow View Post
    I purchased from here Free shipping 1Set CREE XML2 T6 3B Bike Light 1600lm Waterproof Bicycle Light LED HeadLamp + 8.4v Battery Pack + Charger-in Bicycle Light from Sports & Entertainment on Aliexpress.com but the price seems to have gone up $31 in the last three weeks. Order from Fast Tech for the better deal.
    I couldn't find any of these on fast tech. I searched for "CREE XML2 T6 3B"

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    OHHH! So now we's gonna think'in of giving up on the ol' P-7's now are we.......'bout time.

    Ti, all these duel XM-L lamps will usually work with the typical MS type connectors. One of these on the bars should be much better than the older single P-7 lamps, at least as far as beam width goes closer in to the bike. They will draw more power though if you run them on high for longer periods. Using the medium setting though will typically get you much better run times and not run so hot. Even on medium, these things light up the night really well.
    Honestly, the P7 Magicshine 808s are great lights and more than enough to ride fast singletrack at night. I ride with some guys that bought theirs after mine and have the XML version..no real difference to me as we ride. I have been considering the newest MS 808 light heads lately as my batteries are fine..but they are basically the same price as these Gemini Duo knock-offs..just not sure on the quasi-shady quality of these things.
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  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Honestly, the P7 Magicshine 808s are great lights and more than enough to ride fast singletrack at night. I ride with some guys that bought theirs after mine and have the XML version..no real difference to me as we ride. I have been considering the newest MS 808 light heads lately as my batteries are fine..but they are basically the same price as these Gemini Duo knock-offs..just not sure on the quasi-shady quality of these things.
    Having a lamp with two emitters on the bars makes for a better beam pattern, no question about it. Brightness isn't always the primary issue. Since you can buy one of these duo clones "lamp only" for about $25 it's hard not to buy one.

    Since you're accustomed to having a MS on the helmet you might be interested in upgrading your helmet set-up to a newer MS 808 (L2) version. Jim at Action LED is selling the "light head only" for about $55 . Definitely, these are going to be noticeably brighter than the old P-7's. Not to mention like I said before, it's not always about being brighter. The newer XM-L2 emitters are more efficient which means when you run your lamps on low not only are they a little brighter but they are using less battery power than the previous P-7's. That said, longer run times are always going to be a nice by-product of the newer lamps.

  17. #117
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    Is there a link for the lighthead only?

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cat-man-do View Post
    Having a lamp with two emitters on the bars makes for a better beam pattern, no question about it. Brightness isn't always the primary issue. Since you can buy one of these duo clones "lamp only" for about $25 it's hard not to buy one.

    Since you're accustomed to having a MS on the helmet you might be interested in upgrading your helmet set-up to a newer MS 808 (L2) version. Jim at Action LED is selling the "light head only" for about $55 . Definitely, these are going to be noticeably brighter than the old P-7's. Not to mention like I said before, it's not always about being brighter. The newer XM-L2 emitters are more efficient which means when you run your lamps on low not only are they a little brighter but they are using less battery power than the previous P-7's. That said, longer run times are always going to be a nice by-product of the newer lamps.
    Cat, can you post a link to the $25 light-head only?
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  19. #119
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    My yinding has the first gen xml's with the rectangles.

    Still plenty bright, folks who got the xml2s should post the vendor they got it from.

  20. #120
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    Within the last week, I've looked for a dual XM-L2 lamphead only for the least cost on all the usual sites mentioned in this forum and this is the only one I found for around $25:

    Black Color SolarStorm X2 2*Cree XM-L2 2200-Lumen Led Bike Light Without Battery Pack

    The XM-L version is about $3 less.

  21. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Cat, can you post a link to the $25 light-head only?
    I believe he was talking about the Solarstorm x2, which is available as a light-head-only for around $21-$25.

    I think that the Gemini Duo Clones are only available as full kits with battery and charger. I would love to get my hands on a a light-head-only option for this light. If anyone knows of place that sells it, please post a link

  22. #122
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    Is there a big difference between the Solarstorm X2 and the YinDing light? Is it worth it?

  23. #123
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    So I finally go out for a ride with the new Duo clone. A few initial observations:

    I mounted the light on my helmet, and as I was leaving for the ride, I went to stuff the battery in my camelback. That's when I realized how short the cables are on both the light AND on the battery (I just hadn't thought of it until that moment).

    This is a nice feature if you're using it on your bars, less cable to deal with, but if you're using this on your helmet and putting the battery in a backpack or jersey pocket, get a Magicshine extension cable!
    Fortunately a friend had one to loan me.

    Next, the button is very flat, and can be a bit hard to feel with gloves on. Again, not much of a problem if it's on your bars because you can see it, but takes a little getting use to on your helmet when you're doing it by feel. I did find it was easier with my left hand than my right.
    Would be nice if the button stuck out just a bit.

    The beam is nice and even, no hot spot, no rings, etc. Definitely more of a flood light, but still very bright and decent range. But this is yet another reason it would be better on bars.
    I'm hoping that eventually I'll find some "spot" optics or reflectors that fit and will give it more throw.
    I think a stock one on bars for flood, and one configured for more spot/throw on helmet would be a PERFECT set up!

    I used it on high while riding, and switched to low or off when we stopped to regroup.
    Total ride time was 1 hr 22 min. Plus about 15 min on low while stopped, and my indicator light was still green at the end.

    Considering when we started, there was a sea of green leds on (17 riders with a LOT of various Magichines, and MS clones), and by the end of the ride there was a sea of blue, orange and red leds, I was pretty happy that mine was still green :-)

    Overall, very happy with this light and will buy another one which I will try to mod for more spot/throw using different optics or reflectors.

  24. #124
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    Gemini Duo clones-duoclonehelmet1.jpgGemini Duo clones-duoclonehelmet2.jpg

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    Thanks for the feedback fightnut, out of all the bugdet multi-emitter lights I've seen this one appears so far to be the best built, in particular the internals and the Nuetral white tint if you get the version from Aliexpress. Beam profile looks fantastic.

    How did you find the mode spacing?

    If we can find some replacement optics this would be perfect.

  26. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by whokilledJR View Post
    How did you find the mode spacing?
    Good question. I wouldn't mind if the "low" was lower.
    When I'm riding, I always have it on high. I don't mess around with switching modes when I'm going slower or faster, climbing or descending. I just leave it on high.

    But when we're stopped to re-group, or for trail side repairs, or even when I sneak off for a pee, I'd like a lower low to save battery and so I'm not blinding people.
    Not a big deal, but it would nice.

  27. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pinkman View Post
    Is there a big difference between the Solarstorm X2 and the YinDing light? Is it worth it?
    There was one Solarstorm X2 on last nights ride. Unfortunately, there were so many riders, and so many lights going at any one time, that I just didn't get a chance to talk to the guy and compare it to my Duo clone.

    I'm hoping I run into him again on another ride, because I do want to compare the beam and the throw between the two lights.

  28. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by fightnut View Post
    There was one Solarstorm X2 on last nights ride. Unfortunately, there were so many riders, and so many lights going at any one time, that I just didn't get a chance to talk to the guy and compare it to my Duo clone.

    I'm hoping I run into him again on another ride, because I do want to compare the beam and the throw between the two lights.
    There are differences in the quality of the light, but the technical things are nearly the same, right? I think the luminous power and is the same?!

  29. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by fightnut View Post
    There was one Solarstorm X2 on last nights ride. Unfortunately, there were so many riders, and so many lights going at any one time, that I just didn't get a chance to talk to the guy and compare it to my Duo clone.

    I'm hoping I run into him again on another ride, because I do want to compare the beam and the throw between the two lights.
    I think you'll find ( when you catch up to him ) that the SSX2 will have a bit more throw. On the other hand I have a feeling that the Duo clones are going to be better for more spill, hence make a better bar light than the SSX2. A good ( cheap ) combo set-up might be a SSX2 on the helmet and a Duo clone on the bars. Still all things considered while I may like the SSX2 on the helmet it still doesn't beat out the intense spot that a good single XM-L2 emitter reflector lamp can put out. Larger reflectors just rock.

    I'm going out to test my new Gloworm X2. I'll post up later...see ya.

  30. #130
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    So any links to the Duo clone light head only?

    I purchased one set from FasTech last Tuesday(still not shipped) but would like another one if it is ~$25.

    Chris.

  31. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by fightnut View Post
    Considering when we started, there was a sea of green leds on (17 riders with a LOT of various Magichines, and MS clones), and by the end of the ride there was a sea of blue, orange and red leds, I was pretty happy that mine was still green :-)
    Magicshines have 4 stages battery indicator, Yinding has basically 2 stages (100-30% green, 30-25% red, 5-0% red blinking) - so don't be happy heh.
    My own Yinding has ~3500mAh battery and draws about 1.7A on high. So while it does have almost the same brightness as SSX2 its battery will only work for about 2-2.5 hours on high.

  32. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by fightnut View Post
    But when we're stopped to re-group, or for trail side repairs, or even when I sneak off for a pee, I'd like a lower low to save battery and so I'm not blinding people.
    Not a big deal, but it would nice.
    I like having a "hidden" low low for things like map reading or pretty much any non-riding time. By "hidden" I mean that it is a mode accessed by something like a press and hold for 3 seconds. I don't want it in a rotation with the riding levels. Low enough so the map isn't blown out with too much light reflection.

  33. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kir View Post
    Magicshines have 4 stages battery indicator, Yinding has basically 2 stages (100-30% green, 30-25% red, 5-0% red blinking) - so don't be happy heh.
    My own Yinding has ~3500mAh battery and draws about 1.7A on high. So while it does have almost the same brightness as SSX2 its battery will only work for about 2-2.5 hours on high.
    Considering my rides are under two hours anyway, and this is the stock battery, trust me, I'm happy :-)

    I can always spend a little extra money and get a better battery if I felt the need, but I don't see the need just yet.

    But I do carry a spare battery anyway. Since I use two lights, only makes sense to have one extra battery, just incase something fails, gets damaged in a crash, etc.

  34. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by krzysiekmz View Post
    So any links to the Duo clone light head only?

    I purchased one set from FasTech last Tuesday(still not shipped) but would like another one if it is ~$25.

    Chris.
    I talked with the seller of these lights on aliexpress.
    Light head only will cost $35-40 if you order 10-50 pieces. Complete set can be bought for $40-45 for same quanity, so imo its not worth it to buy only the head.

  35. #135
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    Gemini Duo clones

    Just went out for my first ride with two Yindings I got from fastech. Shipping was about 3 weeks from order which I found acceptable.

    I have been night riding on and off since the good old days of the dual beam night suns 20 years ago. My latest setup was a Baja Designs origional Stryker and the original magicshine on the helmet.

    These two tiny lights blew away every other setup I have ever had (but to be honest I always have been a bit cheap with the lights). After a two hour ride both lights were still green using a combo of low through high. I used the stock battery on one an the Baja designs battery on the other. I was very impressed that these lights are available for 50 bucks.

    Would be nice if some tighter optics would be available for the helmet light but honestly I am not really into tinkering with them but as soon as someone figures out what will drop right in I will order up.


  36. #136
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    Sweet set-up. Might pull the trigger on one.

  37. #137
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    Great thread, can anyone compare the light pattern from the original vs. the clone? looking for a headlite and wondering if the original duo is more of a spot?
    Thanks for any help.

  38. #138
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    Has anyone seen these yet with the new XM-L2 emitters? I am planning on ordering a couple of these, but not sure if I should wait and see if the new models show up soon.
    2012 Carbon Flash
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    2011 Anthem X

  39. #139
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    Well mine FINALLY arrived from Fasttech today, a mere 5 weeks since I ordered it!

    Anyway... Rant over... Battery is currently on charge, but the light head unit seems exceptionally well made compared to other "cheapo chinese" light head units I've seen. Just hoping it's as good as the initial beam patterns thrown up on this thread so far suggest it should be, and that the battery is significantly better than the rubbish ones the Solarstorm X2's are coming with!

    Will post more later when I've tried it out...

  40. #140
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    Incidentally...

    I've had a play with a Gemini Duo fairly recently (and it was superb), and aside from the 3 grooves in the fins on the top of the body, this light head is not so much a clone of the Gemini, but is more likely actually the same unit!

    I'll see if I can get hold of a Gemini again and do some measurements to compare them, but I'd be very surprised if they don't come out of the same factory.

    I can't speak for the batteries though, I know the Gemini's ship with high quality Samsung cell packs.

  41. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by markyboy1980 View Post
    Incidentally...

    I've had a play with a Gemini Duo fairly recently (and it was superb), and aside from the 3 grooves in the fins on the top of the body, this light head is not so much a clone of the Gemini, but is more likely actually the same unit!

    I'll see if I can get hold of a Gemini again and do some measurements to compare them, but I'd be very surprised if they don't come out of the same factory.
    .
    WoW, I love my duo's. If that's the case I would buy a few.

  42. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gharddog03 View Post
    WoW, I love my duo's. If that's the case I would buy a few.
    Well to be fair, the driver will be different too (doesn't appear to be programmable), and annoyingly it cycles low/med/high/off so you have to go through off each time to come back to low or medium! Ah well...

    Here's some VERY rubbish beam shots to compare... First up is the Yinding on High...

    Gemini Duo clones-yinding-high.jpg

    Then here's my Exposure Toro Mk3 on high...

    Gemini Duo clones-toro-high.jpg

    You'll notice that the Toro has a narrower, more focussed beam. I'd say that crap photography aside, the Toro is slightly brighter in the centre of the beam (so probably has a bit more throw), but the Yinding has WAY more spread which will make it a much better offroad light than the Toro is (and most of the cheap XML's).

    And here's my Joystick Mk7 on high for comparison too...

    Gemini Duo clones-joystick-high.jpg

    Other things to note. The Yinding starts to warm up pretty quickly, suggesting the LED's have been connected well by lots of thermal compound to the head unit. Overall quality seems very high, and I'm impressed with it for what it cost. Even on low power, the light is plenty useable for moderate paced offroad riding, and medium beam is more than enough for anything except full on DH trail riding at night. Beam pattern wise, it's mildly reminiscent of my old Troutie Lumen Liberator (though not quite as broad) which is easily the best offroad light I've ever used. I will however be keeping my Toro for road riding at night though, cos the tighter more focussed beam (and built in battery) make it much better suited for that purpose.

  43. #143
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    I have a Gemini Duo that I purchased from Jim at ActionLED. My question is do these clones have the ability to program the modes? My gemini will allow you to adjust the Hi Med Low settings in 10% power increments. So for example you can have a Hi of 90% Med of 40% and Low of 20% if you want or have a Hi of 100% med of 80% and Low of 60%. Pretty cool feature! Seems like a great deal on a bike light regardless.

  44. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmoney View Post
    I have a Gemini Duo that I purchased from Jim at ActionLED. My question is do these clones have the ability to program the modes?
    No

    Sadly not. But I'd say the 3 modes it does have are well thought out. Don't have a multimeter available to measure current, but I'd guess low is about 30-40% and medium is 60-70% is high is taken to be 100%.

  45. #145
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    Got my Yinding 2xXM-L U2 from Fasttech today (20 days from order).

    Tried it at home and snapped some comparison shots for reference. Nothing like proper beamshots but thought they might be of interest.

    It really is tiny
    Gemini Duo clones-filename%3Dcomp.jpg

    Floodier than the 3xXML. Will probably feel like shorter throw in use.
    Gemini Duo clones-filename%3D3xxml_vs_yinding.jpg

    Brighter, cooler colour and less floody than the Magicshine MJ-872
    Gemini Duo clones-filename%3Dmj872_vs_yinding.jpg

    Finally. A lot brighter, whiter and floodier than my old MJ808 (P7)
    Gemini Duo clones-filename%3Dp7_vs_yinding.jpg

    I think, changing one lens to more spot would make this a really really good helmet light.
    Cheers
    /Johan

  46. #146
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    Nice shots modig.
    I'm interested in seeing how the 2x compares to the 3x out in the real world.

  47. #147
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    Extremely bluish...hope some of this is reflect of the blue housing anodisation.

  48. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Nice shots modig.
    I'm interested in seeing how the 2x compares to the 3x out in the real world.
    Thanks. I'll try to get out and make some proper comparison shots and post back here.

    /Johan

  49. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by bhocewar View Post
    Extremely bluish...hope some of this is reflect of the blue housing anodisation.
    No, I have a red one, and I'd say his photos are pretty spot on (I also have the 3 XML he's comparing it to).

    However, when out on the trail, and using both of these lights together (the Duo clone and the triple XML), I don't really see the "blue" tint so much, if at all.

  50. #150
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    Thanks Markyboy180 and Modig for the pics!
    It looks smaller then my Duo.




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