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  1. #1
    see me rollin, they hatin
    Reputation: NicoleB's Avatar
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    can it be salvaged?

    Ok, so i have a 1000 lumen magic shine. Yeah, i know, dont gimme any guff about being cheap i'ts my secondary light to my helmet light. I mainly like the "spread" of the beam, as opposed to the spotlight effect of my cygolite.

    so it's already been soldered once, because the cord got tugged and started separating from the bulb side. But even before that happened, the light would occasionally flicker from bright mode, down to a very dim mode (dimmer than the low setting). i dont think this is a case where the cord is separating, because when it's in that creepy dim mode, it wont go into blink mode when the button is pushed. it also wont get out of dim mode when i turn it off and on again. It only goes back to bright when i unplug it all, then put it back in. I suspect something funky in the circuit board of the bulb side?

    i hate to toss anything that is possibly fixable, but i dont know where to start. I also cant afford some big monstrous replacement. I also dont know if they sell the bulb part separately, or i'd just get another one.

    thanks!
    fap

  2. #2
    see me rollin, they hatin
    Reputation: NicoleB's Avatar
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    i guess my second question is, if the MS is dead, what else, in the 100$ range had good spread? if i have to buy a new one....

    not terribly impressed by my cygolite. the charger slot is loose and barely charges anymore. For a supposedly better light, it started having issues just as soon as the MS did. Also, it's got a strong spotlight beam.
    fap

  3. #3
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    It's not a problem with the LED itself. Most likely a broken solder joint on the driver board. Very fixable if you have soldering skills and a bit of knowledge of electronic circuits. I've fixed two of these that had similar failures. Both had broken joints on a device called the inductor. It is a ferrite donut with copper wires wrapped around it. In good lights the inductor is glued or otherwise attached to the circuit board. In cheap lights they are attached only by the wires which eventually crack or break due to vibration.

  4. #4
    see me rollin, they hatin
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    it just got soldered back when it cut out completely, but the dimming and wonky flickering has always been there. i dont solder myself, my friend does. i could ask him again i suppose.
    fap

  5. #5
    Hooligan
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    It's not a problem with the LED itself. Most likely a broken solder joint on the driver board. Very fixable if you have soldering skills and a bit of knowledge of electronic circuits. I've fixed two of these that had similar failures. Both had broken joints on a device called the inductor. It is a ferrite donut with copper wires wrapped around it. In good lights the inductor is glued or otherwise attached to the circuit board. In cheap lights they are attached only by the wires which eventually crack or break due to vibration.
    is the circuit board with the inductor inside the lamp assembly?
    and nicole, remember my old nite-rider that behaved similarly? just bump it funny and it would go into this super-dim mode or turn off altogether. turned out being a corroded connector. as you know i ended up just getting another lumina 700 and never looked back. i wont try to push it on you anymore, but i cant think of anything bad to say about the light, the beam, or the company. (when i broke the connector out of the charging port, they simply handed me a new one. no questions asked)
    Quote Originally Posted by Optimus View Post
    Hell of a jump, dawg. Even though they're baggy shorts, I'm surprised that you can fit your balls into them.

  6. #6
    see me rollin, they hatin
    Reputation: NicoleB's Avatar
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    it is on my radar for a new light, maybe. I can borrow yours and see if i like it. Again, i'ts the width of the beam that has me staying with the MS. Yes, i can get that with a new better light...if i feel like spending $$$. as you know, my Cygolite is one of those "good" lights and gave me problems as well.

    however, if the MS can be fixed i will try that first. i took my own MS apart, and all these parts fell out, including a circuit board, but of course, i dont know what i'm looking at.
    fap

  7. #7
    see me rollin, they hatin
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    how long did you have the light when the charger broke? how long is the warranty?
    fap

  8. #8
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    As vancrider said what you describe sounds like loose connection or cold solder joints in the light head assembly. For all the smack people talk about them I have very few problems with the MS lights. Their weak point however is the poor weather protection. The slightest moisture gets inside the light head or into the pack and corrodes the tiny connections. This ends up causing a broken connection or a short between legs on the little IC chips.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtdawg21892 View Post
    is the circuit board with the inductor inside the lamp assembly?
    Yes.

  10. #10
    Light freak
    Reputation: scar's Avatar
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    Hey Nicole, sorry to hear you continue to have problems with one of your lights. I just wanted to give you another option that you may not have really considered. How about a light that is "hand built" by a long time fellow MTBR member that has been building lights for over 6 years? There is no way I can't compete with the prices of the Chinese lights. But what I can offer is a kick a** light that I will stand behind for years! I don't care how long you have had one of my lights, I stand behind my lights. Another plus, if you ever have a problem with one of my lights, just return the light to me and I will repair and get it right back to you. No need to have to buy a new light every couple of years to stay current with the latest LED technology. I can upgrade any light that I have ever built with the latest LED's for a very small cost.

    If you are at all curious, shoot me an email and I can forward you some information on what I can do. I can even send you a light to demo as I am confident it will blow your socks off.

    ***

  11. #11
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    Nicole, you should be able to buy a replacement light head for < $100 ( and use the same battery ) with out too much problem. I would have recommended perhaps one of the duel emitter ( Chinese built ) lamps but since you mentioned that you want a wider beam pattern I need to know how you were using the now defunct MS,....helmet or bar mounted? It would also be a good idea to tell us how you use the lamps...ie...road, Mountain bike trails..etc. It makes a difference because if you MTB you need more light and generally wider beam patterns. To give recommendations we need more details.

  12. #12
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    If there is a problem with circuit, you can replace it easy with this Name:  sku_241101_1_small.jpg
Views: 230
Size:  7.0 KB

    For higher current you can add another resistor over existing one (R100 or R120 in some versions). It is located under coil. See discussion here. You can calculate current by I = 0.25/R

    I can recomend this driver as a replacement for the most of MS MJ-808 type of flashlights.

  13. #13
    see me rollin, they hatin
    Reputation: NicoleB's Avatar
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    funny, last two rides, it gave me NO problems. maybe the cord twists under certain pressures when riding, but clearly, it's not to be trusted on it's own. i use the MS as a bar mount.

    i have a friend who can solder. we'll give it one more shot, then perhaps start looking into replacements or other lights.

    the moisture parts makes sense. Many times I've had the sky open up on me while riding and my lights get soaked. i'm surprised they lasted as long as they did.
    fap

  14. #14
    see me rollin, they hatin
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    it's a magic shine.

    we'll see if it can be fixed then perhaps new lamp
    fap

  15. #15
    Action LED Lights
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    Nicole,

    Is it truly a Magicshine (or a cheap knock-off) and if so what model? I have some 3 mode MS 808 driver circuits if needed. The most common cause of your symptom is a broken conductor in the power cable. It will often work if held in the right position but then fail with the cable moves.
    We also sell MJ-808-L2 light heads for $54.95. This would move you up to the latest version.
    Jim Harger
    Action LED Lights
    www.action-led-lights.com

  16. #16
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    I may give the board ledoman posted along with the resistor mod. I have an mj808 which was my first light from when I got back into riding and even though sometimes it doesn't make sense financially to fix these things it is of sentimental value

  17. #17
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    If you still have P7 led it can be changed for the latest XM-L2 with some spacer/washer added under the MPCB star. If you can do some more take the copper star (Noctigon for example) and put the copper washer under it. Or if you are skilled to reflow, get the led from the star, solder star and washer together and reflow the led on the top. You'll gain much better heat sinking and some more lumens.
    There has been reports it can be used 6V MT-G2 led instead of XM-L2, but some thinks there is to much spill and heating problems. For shure there is even more light coming out, but it takes more energy too.
    Happy modding ;-)

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